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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Country: United States
 Decade: 1980-1989
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Coat

Coat

Date: 1989
Creator: Mouratidis, Michael, 1920-2002
Description: Evening coat of brocade and fur. The full-length coat is of a pale yellow silk brocade, with a pattern of flowers and scrolls in reds, purples, blues, white, silver, and gold. It has long sleeves and opens along the center front, with no closures. The cuffs and collar are wide bands of dyed purple fox fur. The coat is lined in a pale tan/yellow silk. Sewn in below collar at inside center back is designer's label: "Designed / by Mouratidis / Washington DC" Attached inside right side near hip is original paper label printed on one side "Balenciaga / Paris", and written on the back "Brocade evening mystery / coat w/fox / R". Donated to the Texas Fashion Collection by Helen Noumas, in memory of her partner Michael Mouratidis, designer of the piece.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1989~
Creator: Mori, Hanae
Description: Dress of violet, pink, blue and grey silk chiffon printed in a rose motif. Full-length, with rounded neckline and full-length sleeves that flare and are split at wrist. Skirt gathered at natural waist. Skirt with middle layer of dark pink chiffon, and inner lining layer of pink nylon(?). Center back opening, bodice with 7 button and loops and 8 covered snaps, and one hook-and-eye at neck. Skirt with 2 covered snaps on outer layer, zipper for attached inner layers, and hook-and-loop just below waistband. Designer's label at inside back, just below waist: "[Japanese characters] / Hanae Mori" Retailer's label at inside back, below waist: "Neiman-Marcus" Size label attached to designer's label: "12" With a chiffon scarf, of fabric matching outer layer of dress.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1989~
Creator: Mori, Hanae
Description: Dress in shift style of violet, blue and pink flower motif silk with outer layer of black chiffon. Attached cape overlay on back in black chiffon with matching flower motif. Square neck elasticized at shoulders scoops in back; elbow length butterfly sleeves of black chiffon. Center back zipper with hook & eye on dress and covered snaps on cape. Lined in black rayon. Designer's label at back neckline: "(Japanese characters) / Hanae Mori" Size "10" tag attached to base of designer label. Content/care label at back neckline. Retailer's label on center back seam of dress near hem: "Neiman-Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1989~
Creator: Mori, Hanae
Description: Dress of silk chiffon in blue flower motif on red background. About knee-length, the dress has a scoop neckline and butterfly sleeves. Waistline tucks and straight skirt. Center back opening with closure of two snaps with small bow of self as trim. Lined in red rayon. Designer's label at back neckline: "Hanae Mori / Tokyo New York" Retailer's label to right of designer label: "Neiman-Marcus" Fiber content, cleaning instructions and size "8" label to left of center back opening. With a matching scarf/sash of same fabric.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1989
Creator: Beene, Geoffrey
Description: Dress of synthetic taffeta in black polka dots on white background. Scoop neck; knee length. Sleeveless; back of dress is halter cut. False attached vest with solid black knit insets, stitched in silver metallic thread and trimmed in silver metallic ribbon. Front of dress is black knit, V-shaped with curved flat pleats at each side of the V at waist. Center back hidden zipper. Lined ivory crepe synthetic (polyester?). Designer's label at center back to right of zipper: "Geoffrey Beene / New York" Size "6" tag, cleaning instructions and union label attached to base of zipper.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1989~
Creator: Mori, Hanae
Description: Dress of printed silk chiffon in floral pattern of shades of aqua and turquoise blue with purple and magenta pansies. Rounded neckline; street length. Long straight sleeves have self-covered snap closure. Natural waist has elastic waistband and gathered skirt. Belt loops at sides; belt missing. Center back closure of nine self-covered snaps. Lined in beige synthetic. Designer's label at left side seam under arm: "(Japanese Characters) / Hanae Mori" Size "12" tag at base of designer label. Retailer's label at right side seam under arm: "Neiman-Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1989~
Creator: Mori, Hanae
Description: Dress of silk chiffon printed with a grey and purple flower motif. Round neckline; long sleeves with 1" cuffs and closure of two self-covered snaps. Below knee length. Skirt gathers at natural waist with elastic waistband. Waistband has narrow belt loops; belt missing. Center back opening of six self-covered snaps with hook & eye at neckline. Bodice lined in gray silk chiffon; skirt lined in gray synthetic. Designer's label at left side seam of skirt lining: "(Japanese characters) / Hanae Mori" Size "10" tag attached to base of designer label. Retailer's label to left of designer label: "Neiman-Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble

Ensemble

Date: 1989~
Creator: Ramirez, Carlos
Description: Evening ensemble of brown silk jersey and sequined appliques. A) Dress. Sleeveless, the full-length sheath dress has 1” wide straps which are embellished with length-wise decorative top stitching. The dress has an empire waist, and a modified sweetheart neckline. The bust is covered with floral/leaf form appliques which are covered in translucent brown sequins and edged in gold metallic thread. Center back zipper closure from top to mid-back, and slit from center back lower hem upwards. Lined in brown polyester. B) Jacket. The matching jacket is of bolero form, cropped short, with no collar and a slightly undulating neckline which continues along the edges of the center front opening, and the lower edge. Long sleeves have cuffs with same edging. The whole jacket is overlaid with floral/leaf form velvet appliques edged in metallic gold threading and covered with sequins in various shades of brown. Jacket has inner shoulder pads and is lined in brown polyester. Designer's label: "Liancarlo / Couture" Retailer's label: "Neiman Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Blouse and Skirt

Ensemble - Blouse and Skirt

Date: 1989~
Creator: Mori, Hanae
Description: Ensemble of silk with printed patterns of diagonal stripes and color blocks of pale gray, orange/brown, brown, etc. in diagonal stripes, with brocade of dark brown "spots". A) Blouse. Short torso, with single-breasted center front opening with 6 self-covered small domed buttons and single hidden snap. Band or "Ascot" collar with long extended ends to tie at front. Modified batwing sleeves with cuffs having single self-covered button and hidden snap. Wide, shaped band at lower hem of blouse, with pointed sections at front, curving up at sides, and back down at center back. Center back with DEEP inner vent. Unlined. Designer's label at inside back collar: "Hanae Mori / Boutique" B) Skirt. Below-knee length A-line skirt with narrow waist band having hook-and-bar and concealed snap at center back, below which is zipper. Fully lined in brown silk(?) Designer's label at back right inside waistband: "Hanae Mori / Boutique" Size label beside designer's label: "12" Content/care label below size label: "100% Silk / D.C.O." and "Care Instructions / Dry Clean / Only" Union label below content/care label.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Dress

Evening Dress

Date: 1989~
Creator: Valvo, Carmen Marc
Description: Evening gown of red silk jersey with strapless bodice; bodice is fan pleated, with pleating converging at center front and back in a triangle; full-length with dipped hem in back; fully lined in red silk satin; left side zip closure; bust support structure within bodice with side hook and eye closure. Size 4 Designer's label: "Carmen Marc Valvo"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Gown

Evening Gown

Date: 1989~
Creator: Rhodes, Patricia
Description: Evening gown of black velvet. The strapless, full-length gown is tulip-style, with structured bodice and flaring skirt from just below hip. The interior is lined in acetate with skirt slip trimmed in 2 ruffles of fine net. Inside the bottom of the skirt are 2 under-skirts of ruffled fine net. Gown has a center-back zipper and hook-and-eye closure. Designer's label at inside back: "Patricia Rhodes / PR" Size label: "6" Content/Care label.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Gown

Evening Gown

Date: 1989~
Creator: Ramirez, Carlos
Description: Evening gown of brown silk. The full-length gown is strapless, with stitched horizontal pleats at left bodice; skirt wraps over toward the left and both crescent shaped sides are trimmed in a pleated ruffle flounce with a shorter ruffle flounce revealing the longer one; bound edges and hemline; lined in brown acetate; center-back zip closure. Designer's label: "Liancarlo / Couture" Retailer's label: "Neiman Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Suit - Jacket and Skirt

Cocktail Suit - Jacket and Skirt

Date: 1988/1989
Creator: Costa, Victor
Description: Cocktail suit of royal blue douppioni silk, consisting of:. A) Long jacket with Nehru collar; slightly fitted. Front, opening, hem, cuffs, shoulders, pockets, and back yoke elaborately embellished with white embroidery, white seed beading, and ribbon work in floral patterns. Long sleeves. Center-front opening with zipper. Side welt pockets. Lined in white satin synthetic(?); shoulder pads. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Victor Costa" "Made in USA" tag behind designer's label. Content/care/size label at side seam, 100% silk. B) Straight skirt of matching royal blue douppioni silk. Below knee length. Center back zipper with hook & bar on 1" waistband. Lined in royal blue silk synthetic. Designer's label to left of zipper: "Victor Costa" Tag behind designer label: "Crafted With Pride / in U.S.A" Content/care tag behind designer label.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pumps

Pumps

Date: 1988
Creator: Bruno Magli
Description: Navy blue and white leather pumps. All leather pumps of navy blue leather printed with a polka dot white button motif. Heel and toe of shoe are of solid navy blue leather. Lined in embossed gold leather. Black leather sole. Designer's label stamped inside: "Bruno Magli / Made in Italy Bologna" Satmped inside: "C 4141 11702 5 1/2B"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Dress

Evening Dress

Date: 1987~
Creator: Costa, Victor
Description: Evening dress of black polyester with white polka-dots. Knee length. Strapless bodice in "crumb catcher" style with open split at center front. Midriff has 3 inch wide white grosgrain ribbon with 1/2 inch black ribbon applique; double bow of same at center front of midriff. Inverted pleats extending 8 inches from midriff to full skirt. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Built in petticoat with hook & bar closure and triple ruffles of black net at hem. Bodice is boned. Skirt is lined in black organdy and petticoat is lined in black polyester fabric. Designer's label to left of zipper: "Victor Costa". Union label below designer label. Content/care/size label at right side seam of bodice. Tag under lining at side seam: "Lot / Size 6"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
D'Orsay Pumps

D'Orsay Pumps

Date: [1987..1997]
Creator: Joan & David Too
Description: Pair of D'Orsay pumps of pink leather. The shoes have cut-away sides and rounded toes. The toebox and heel uppers of pink leather, with pink leather strap from heels to secure around ankle with small oval gilt metal buckle. 3 1/4" high stacked wooden heel tapers to base. Stamped leather label inside: "Joan & David Too / Made in Italy" Stamped on sole: "Made in Italy / Vero Cuoio / 8 1/2"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Dress

Evening Dress

Date: 1986
Creator: Costa, Victor
Description: Evening dress of black chiffon and rayon with light and royal blue glitter embellishment throughout. Full length, with high round neckline and long raglan sleeves with hidden snaps at edge of cuffs. Built-in shoulder padding. Empire waistline, with slight gathering of blouse/skirt, and blousing effect. Center back opening, with 4 hooks and loops from neckline to waistline, and zipper from waistline down. Black rayon lining from bust to hem of dress. Designer's label: "Victor Costa" Style/manufacturing label listing style 6843-4, size 8, and codes "CON DOW" and "RN 49563" Origin label, "Crafted with pride in U.S.A." Care label: "Dry Clean / in / a net".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoes

Shoes

Date: 1986
Creator: Pietro Last
Description: Dress shoe of mint green satin. 2" heel. 'King Louis' style pumps. Pointed toe. Ornament on vamp with embroidery of a pink rose and green foliage on yellow background. Markings: Left- "Pietro / Last / Neiman Marcus" Right- "Neiman Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoes

Shoes

Date: 1986
Creator: Pietro Last
Description: Dress shoe of yellow satin. 2" heel. 'King Louis' style pumps. Pointed toe. Ornament on vamp with embroidery of a pink rose and green foliage on yellow background. Markings: Left- "Pietro / Last / Neiman Marcus" Right- "Neiman Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ballgown

Ballgown

Date: 1985/1989
Creator: De la Renta, Oscar
Description: Ensemble of red/coral/dark rose satin. The strapless dress has an empire bodice which curves up in front at bust and is lower in back. The full-length A-line skirt is pleated into the waistband with inverted box pleats. The gown has a center back zipper closure with two hook-and-eye closures and two snaps on the placket. The inner construction is complex, with red grosgrain ribbon bust and waist stays with hook-and-eye closures and a boned white horsehair inner bodice which is lined with red chiffon. Inner structure has its own center back zipper closure which is behind outer zipper. There is an attached full-length red satin petticoat with horsehair hem and nylon net inner structure to support front skirt pleats. The skirt is piece lined in red chiffon. The accompanying bolero jacket is of matching red satin with all-over quilting in a patterns of waves and arcs in a red thread. The cropped jacket is semi-fitted, and has an open curved neckline and center-front opening with no closure, all trimmed in a band of red satin. Each of the set-in long sleeves has a (non-functioning) large, red satin-covered button near the cuff; the cuffs are trimmed in a band of red ...
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Day Dress

Day Dress

Date: 1985/1990
Creator: Galanos, James
Description: Day dress of printed golden yellow silk patterned overall with purple, orange and red flowers, green leaves, and black dots. The knee-length dress has a jewel neckline and padded shoulders. The long sleeves have 3" zippered cuffs. The dress has a dropped waist with three-tier, knife pleated skirt. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Lined in yellow organza. Designer's label at left underarm: "Galanos" Retailer's label at right underarm: "I. Magnin" Care label to right of retailer's label.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Day Dress

Day Dress

Date: 1985
Creator: Galanos, James
Description: Day dress of black crepe with yellow-gold print. Round neck, plain front, bodice gathered at shoulder seams, with sleeves cut full at shoulder and narrowing to zippered wrists. Bodice is blouson style drop-waist over short slim skirt. Skirt is topped by a single ruffle which starts at left side and zig-zags around, often going underneath itself. Center back closure of two zippers, one for over-blouse and one for the fitted dress bodice beneath it. Inside is fully lined with couture seams. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" Care label: "Professional / Dry Clean / Only"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1985
Creator: Halston
Description: Dress of blue chiffon. The floor-length dress is formed of two layers, an inner sheath, and an outer layer which is fully ruched, covering the inner sheath completely with layers of draping, and affixed to the inner layer at the neckline, zipper, and at cuffs. The dress has a V-neck at both front and back. The ruching forms "swags" which join at the neckline and center seams on front and back. The three-quarter length sleeves are similarly ruched, anchored along seams running from shoulder to wrist. Center back zipper and hook-and-eye closure. Inner grosgrain ribbon band just below bust which secures with hook-and-eye closure. Designer's label sewn inside at ribbon band: "Halston".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1985
Creator: Simpson, Adele & Hobson, Donald
Description: Front-wrap dress of taupe check wool flannel. V-neck with pointed collar and notched lapel. Long sleeves with 2-1/2" cuffs and closure of two brown, circular button and tailored buttonholes. Side, wide welt pockets. Mid-calf length. Taupe grosgrain ribbon petersham; padded shoulders. Skirt lined in taupe synthetic; bodice unlined. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Adele Simpson" Size "12" tag, "100% Wool" and cleaning instructions tag on side seam. With accompanying belt of same fabric; 2" wide with self-covered buckle.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
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