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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Decade: 1950-1959
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Toque

Toque

Date: 1955~
Creator: Sharon Originals
Description: Toque of black velour, velvet, and silk. Cylindrical black velour crown, the top sunken and with slightly domed center. Around crown is wide pleated band of black silk, with seven diagonally placed black velvet long, narrow leaf shaped pieces of black velvet across the band. Unlined, with inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label at inside hatband: "Sharon / Originals" Stamped inside crown: "Genuine / Imported Velour" Accompanied by "Goldsmith's" hat box and receipt.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Toque Hat

Toque Hat

Date: 1955?
Creator: Mr. John
Description: a) Toque of red/orange and yellow print wool. Two hatpins with spherical heads covered in material matching toque and head scarf. Lined in white with "Mr John" pattern in gold. Designer' label on inside hatband with rhinestone studded, tabbed ends: "Mr. John" b) Scarf of matching material with large square of lattice work crochet netting of red/orange in middle of scarf to provide veiled effect. Designer's label: "Mr. John"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Turban

Turban

Date: 1955~
Creator: Shelia
Description: Turban of black satin. The low crown has pleating running lengthwise along crown, gathering at front where it is embelished with a crescent-shaped pin of various sized clear rhinestones. Inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label: "Shelia / the perfect hat / Chicago"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Turban

Turban

Date: 1955
Creator: Henry's Hats
Description: Turban of light brown velvet and burnt sienna / orange brown satin. Affixed to front is a large artificial flower in shades of pinks and pale greens, enhanced with maroon feathers. Lined in pale brown netting. Around inside of brim is band of light brown grosgrain ribbon. Label sewn onto ribbon: "An Original By / Henry's Hats".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Veil

Veil

Date: 1955~
Creator: unknown
Description: Veil of navy blue net. The circular veil has five attached small bows of navy blue. A small string attached to the veil and to a bobby pin helps to secure veil to wearer's head.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Trench Coat

Trench Coat

Date: Autumn 1954
Creator: Pietro
Description: Trench coat of brown and white tweed wool. Street length, double breasted, with bracelet-length sleeves with wide turned-back cuffs. Secured at front with four large brown faux-tortoiseshell buttons in two pairs, and a fifth inner upper left collar point to secure label/placket. Slit pockets at hips. Lined in brown silk(?) Combined Designer's / Retailer's label at center back inside collar: "Pietro / Neiman-Marcus" [on same line, Pietro in tall thin letters at center, Neiman-Marcus in shorter thick letters extending across. Fabric maker's label at inside right side "Anglo Fabrics / 100%Wool" embroidered "over" a coat of arms design in damask with legend reading "Webster Dudley / Quality and Style". With accompanying belt covered in matching wool tweed, with rectangular buckle covered in same fabric. Backed in dark brown leather. Stamped on reverse: "10"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Coat

Coat

Date: 1954~
Creator: Fath, Jacques
Description: Coat of novelty wool in pale blue, brown, white, and purple in a plaid weave design. Center front opening with one large brown button and bound buttonhole at neck. Collarless; knee-length; bracelet length sleeves. Lined in olive green satin. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Tissus / Jacques S. Fath / Paris / Made in / France"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Coat and Pillbox Hat

Coat and Pillbox Hat

Date: 1954
Creator: Garnett, Eleanora
Description: A) Evening coat of forest green wool. Double breasted, with six large buttons having black faceted edges and green pearled centers, and bound buttonholes. Collarless, with black soutache braid outlining neckline and front opening. Loose fitting with very full, bell-shaped, elbow length sleeves pleated into dropped shoulders, faced with green wool part-way back into sleeve. Double welt, angled, slit pockets at sides. Lined in green silk. Designer's label: "E Garnett / Italian Made / Imported Original" B) Pillbox hat. Of matching forest green wool, the low, cylindrical crown is edged in double row of matching black soutache braid which crosses on right and is trimmed with small sphere covered in matching wool. Inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband, and black elasticized band for securing hat to wearer's head. Lined in black silk(?). Designer's label: "E Garnett / Italian Made / Imported Original"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Dress

Cocktail Dress

Date: 1954
Creator: Garnett, Eleanora
Description: Cocktail dress of white rayon jersey. Cocktail length. Strapless with attached scarf across right shoulder which falls down the back. Dress is constructed of two layers with the outer layer fully ruched. Left side zipper closure with hook & eye. Unlined with four internal white grosgrain petershams at zipper. Designer's label at center back: "E Garnett / Italian Made / Imported Original"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Dress

Cocktail Dress

Date: 1954
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Cocktail dress of black wool jersey knit. The late-day dress is of mid-length, with bateau (boat) neckline and short sleeves. Center back zipper with hook & eye at neckline. The fitted torso has a natural waistline with a fitted yoke from natural waist to full hip. Pleated/gathered skirt of black tissue faille begins below yoke and flares to hem. Around the waist is an attached wide faille sash which ties in front forming a bow with trailing ribbons. The bodice of the dress is lined in black and the skirt has a heavy fabric underskirt and two attached layers of net crinoline. Joint designer's and retailer's label sewn inside skirt: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Dress

Cocktail Dress

Date: 1954~
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Cocktail / late day dress of black silk faille. Shallow scooped neckline, short "kimono" style sleeves with wide turn-backs. Bodice seamed, and with dropped waist. Full, mid-length skirt gathers into waist. Center back zipper with hook-and-eye at collar. Inner petticoat under skirt composed of two layers, inner plain black fabric layer and outer stiffened horsehair layer. Designer's label sewn inside skirt, outside of petticoat layer: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1954
Creator: unknown
Description: Panama hat of natural straw. The tan straw crown is domed, with wide band of red, white, and blue grosgrain ribbon around base. At back of ribbon is an applied "bow" of the same ribbon, inverted, with trailing ends. The wide brim turns up at left side, and down at right. Inside of crown with inner tan grosgrain ribbon hatband, to which is attached a black elastic strap to secure hat to wearer's head. Stamped inside crown is retailer's label: "Sold by / 'Lupi's' / 41 Central Ave 41 / Panama"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1954
Creator: Orcel, Gilbert
Description: Hat of red straw. The low, flat-top crown slopes to base, swelling out to form a very narrow brim. The body of the hat is of a loose woven red straw overlaid with strips of woven red straw radiating from the top center of the crown. At the front of the hat is a dark red velvet bow. The interior of the hat is unlined, but the strips of straw continue under the brim, forming a self-lining. Around inside of crown at base is an inner hatband of dark red grosgrain ribbon. Attached to the inner hatband is a black elasticized cord to secure hat to wearer's head. Beneath brim towards back extend small red velvet covered metal(?) loops to help secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label sewn inside crown: "Gilbert Orcel / Paris / Made in France. Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Henri Bendel / New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1954~
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Suit of brown and black wool tweed consisting of jacket, skirt, and vest. a) Jacket: princess line jacket of black and brown wool tweed with ivory slubs running through fabric; V-neckline with narrow notched collar and lapels; full-length sleeves are cut with the jacket body and have two triangular shaped gussets under the arm; sleeves are rolled up to form 1-1/2 cuffs; button front closure; buttons of black crocheted cord surrounding a round faceted black gem. b) Skirt of self fabric with self buttons down center-front; mid-length. c) Vest of self fabric with fabric covered buttons down center-front; fitted; approximately 1" wide shoulder straps.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1954~
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Light and charcoal gray two-piece daytime skirt suit with leather belt. Fitted jacket of light gray heavy weight wool, having a V-neckline with moderate shawl collar. 3/4 length sleeves are cut in one with jacket body and supplemented by one triangular shaped gusset under the arm. Lapped centerfront opening with two large, round, gray plastic buttons and bound buttonholes supplemented by single hook&eye at waist seam. One pair of faux pocket flaps at bust level. Leather belt. Plain slim skirt of dark charcoal gray wool, just below knee-length.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte

Calotte

Date: 1953
Creator: Orcel, Gilbert
Description: Calotte of beige fabric, heavily beaded. The calotte (also spelled "calot") is constructed with a low, domed crown of stiffened net and beige fabric, with areas that extend down at sides and back. The whole is covered with clear sequins, yellow rhinestones, bugle beads, small metal strips, etc. The hat has an inner peach/beige grosgrain ribbon hatband, and four small metal loops sewn in to use to attach to wearer's head with bobby pins. Designer's label: "Gilbert Orcel / 5 Rue de Cirque Paris (8º)"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte

Calotte

Date: 1953
Creator: unknown
Description: Calotte of off-white satin. The calotte (also spelled "calot") has a domed crown covered with horizontally pleated off-white satin, and comes to points at temples. On right point is a large flower-like puff of same material. Hat is unlined, allowing stiffened white net under-structure to be seen. Hat has inner off-white grosgrain hatband and a small comb to help secure it to wearer's head.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte

Calotte

Date: 1953
Creator: unknown
Description: Calotte of brown straw. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat has a teardrop shaped crown of dark brown straw, with the "point" of the teardrop extending down the right side of the wearer's head. The edge of the crown is trimmed with two bands of grosgrain ribbon, cream and brown, which have been tightly pleated and arranged to simulate a herringbone pattern. At the right side the ribbons form two simulated plumes. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of dark brown grosgrain ribbon. A small cream stitch on the hatband indicates the front of the hat. Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus" The hat is accompanied by a single short hatpin, the head of which is covered with dark brown grosgrain ribbon matching that of the hat.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte Hat

Calotte Hat

Date: 1953
Creator: unknown
Description: Calotte style hat of black cabochons and bugle beads. Black velvet piping at edges. Lined in black netting.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte Hat

Calotte Hat

Date: 1953
Creator: unknown
Description: Calotte style hat of black satin. Bow of black satin as trim. Net at back of hat. Hatpin with head covered in matching satin. Lined. Comb at inside front of hat for securing hat to wearer's head. Retailer's label: "A. Harris & Co. / Dallas" Union/size label to right of retailer's label.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Dress

Cocktail Dress

Date: 1953
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Cocktail dress of fuschia (cranberry) silk with black feather print; bodice has round neckline and three-quarter length sleeves; skirt is knee-length and very full, gathered at waist and covered by a short piece of self fabric.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Dress

Cocktail Dress

Date: 1953
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Cocktail dress of black faille and white linen with jacket and belt. A) Bolero style jacket in black silk faille. Center front opening with four small black circular buttons and bound buttonholes. Short, set-in sleeves trimmed with three matching buttons on tops of sleeves with bound buttonholes. Small welt pockets at sides. Jacket and sleeves lined in white silk satin. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Dress of black silk faille. Set-in waistline with upper bodice of white linen. Linen bodice is sleeveless and has center front opening with five white circular plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Banded collar extends to form bow tie ends. Mid-calf length skirt is full and formed by 10 panels. Left side zipper under arm hole. Black grosgrain ribbon petersham at natural waist with single hook & eye closure. Set-in waist section supported by metal boning. Lined in black silk in lower portion of skirt. Entire skirt section lined in heather brown woolen fabric to stiffen skirt. C) Narrow belt covered in black silk faille. Rectangular self covered buckle.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Day Dress

Day Dress

Date: 1953
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Day dress of red ribbed wool. Squared neckline; 3/4 length sleeves. Set-in waistline with attached 1-1/2" wraparound belt that closes in back with 2 hook & eyes and a snap. Below knee length. Center front opening with 7 hook & eyes on waistband and 7 red, circular, plastic buttons and bound buttonholes below waistband. Lined in red silk; bodice lining is sleeveless with center front zipper closure. Designer's label at right seam of bodice lining: "Automne-Hiver 1953 / Christian Dior / Paris / Made in France" and stamped on designer's label: "36416" Style number label under designer's label, illegible: "--6--4"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1953
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Daytime dress of red silk faille. Street length. Short sleeves with turned-back edge. Shawl collar with button-down ends at front. Center front opening of 6 circular faceted red plastic buttons. Skirt gathers/pleats at waistline. Side slit pockets. Bodice partly lined in red silk. Red grosgrain ribbon petersham with hook & eye. Designer's label at right side seam: "Christian Dion Original / Made in U.S.A. / Christian Dior - New York Inc. / Trademark" Retailer's label at left side seam of skirt: "Neiman-Marcus". With accompanying belt of red leather covered with matching red silk faille. Elongated oval buckle covered with red silk faille except for tongue, which is enameled red. Designer's stamp on back: "Christian Dior / New York, Inc." and size, partly illegible. 10 or 12.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design