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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Country: United States
 State: Texas
 Decade: 1940-1949
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Day Dress

Day Dress

Date: Autumn 1949
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Day dress of brown silk damask in fine diamond pattern. The dress is in wrap-around style, with asymmetric neckline with wide, shawl collar on the left. Street length. Opening buttons on bodice at left with 4 circular, brown buttons and bound buttonholes, hook & eye at natural waist and two snaps where skirt attaches to peplum. Peplum is asymmetric and longer on left. Long dolman sleeves with underarm gussets and folded back cuffs. With matching belt.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Coat Dress

Coat Dress

Date: 1949
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Coat dress of navy silk faille with padded hips. Notched collar; single button closure. Long sleeves with vertical pleat across back shoulder to each sleeve hem. Lower mid-length skirt. Two crescent shaped pieces of fabric at hips with faux pocket detail gives the appearance of a separate jacket. Designer's label on inner right waist side seam: "Christian Dior/ New York/ Original" Tag above designer's label: "Fall 1949" Retailer's label on back of neck: "Neiman-Marcus/ Dallas" Belt of matching navy leather. Stamped on back of belt: "10 Christian Dior / New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Dress

Cocktail Dress

Date: 1949
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: A) Cocktail dress of blue silk satin. Sleeveless with spaghetti straps of same. Set-in waist which scallops at bottom hem and attaches to panels of full skirt. Tea length. Left side zipper with hook & eye. Skirt lined in black tulle. Combined retailer/designer label at inside left seam near hem: "Neiman-Marcus dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Belt of same with rectangular, self covered buckle. 1/2 inch wide.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Ensemble - Bodice and Skirt

Cocktail Ensemble - Bodice and Skirt

Date: 1949
Creator: Leibert, Dorine
Description: Cocktail ensemble of mauve damask satin with woven pattern of small flowers consisting of: A) Bodice/top. Sleeveless, with 1" shoulder straps and 3" fold around neckline. Left side zipper opening from bottom to almost neckline. Unlined. B) Skirt, of matching fabric with scattered groups of "smoked"? sequins. Floor length, A-line, with wide, 3" waistband. Center back zipper. Unlined.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1949
Creator: David Crystal
Description: Dress of brown puckered nylon. Street length with A-lined skirt. Fitted bodice. Spread collar and 3/4 length sleeves with turned-back cuffs. Two patch pockets at upper bust, with false flaps. Center front opening with 5 circular cast brass buttons and hidden hook & eye at natural waist. Slit pockets at hips. Unlined. Retailer's label at inside back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus / Sports Shop" With matching narrow belt faced in same fabric, backed in brown leather. Rectangular self-covered buckle. Stamped on reverse: "10 1820"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1949
Creator: John B. Stetson Company
Description: Lady's gray felt hat. Styled along the lines of a fedora, the gray felt crown is basically cylindrical with dished top and some shaping to provide a front "prow". Set at top edge of crown at back is a bow of matching gray felt ribbon. Around the base of the crown is a wide band of matching grosgrain ribbon as hatband. The shallow brim is set off-center, wider at front and sides than back. Brim curves down. Inside of hat is unlined, but has inner hatband of cream grosgrain ribbon. Maker's stamp on inner hatband: [Coat of arms] Stetson / Fifth Avenue" Retailer's stamp on inner hatband: "W. A. Green Co. / Dallas, Tex." Size tag sewn to inner hatband: "22 1/2"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1949
Creator: James, Leslie
Description: Hat of brown felt. The low, slightly domed crown is almost hidden by the upturned brim. At front facing of brim is large flat brown grosgrain ribbon bow. Around the base of the crown is affixed brown net veiling. The hat is unlined, with inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband. Combined designer's/retailer's label inside: "Leslie James / Designed for Sakowitz / Houston" Manufacturer's style stamp inside crown: "Midi / Imported Velour Body / Made in France"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hatlet

Hatlet

Date: 1949/1959
Creator: Mye, Edna
Description: Hatlet of beaded hot pink satin. Brimless, the crown of the hat is shaped somewhat like a letter "K", the back of the K fitting across the head from ear to ear, while the arms extend to the back of the head. The whole is embellished with pink and gray/green beads, and with pink heart-shaped and teardrop shaped rhinestones. Lined in white and silver brocade, with small plastic comb affixed to center front inside edge to secure to wearer's head. Designer's label at center of inside crown: "Edna Mye / Dallas" Accompanied by two hatpins with heads covered in same hot pink satin.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Suit - Jacket and Skirt

Suit - Jacket and Skirt

Date: 1949
Creator: Irene
Description: Suit of beige linen with bands of beige silk embroidered fan-shapes. Suit consists of: A) Jacket. Waist-length or slightly longer, single-breasted, with 5 self-covered and embroidered conical buttons and bound button holes. Long sleeves with turned-back cuffs secured at openings. Bust darts for fitting. Collar and lapels with bands of same embroidery as rest of suit. Single pocket above left breast, with bound buttonhole style opening, and smaller bound buttonhole style opening horizontally above main opening. Lined in beige silk. Torso of jacket with three horizontal bands of beige embroidered bands of fan shapes, sleeves with two bands, and then with cuffs covered with the embroidery. Combined designer's/retailer's label at inside back neckline: "Irene / Exclusively for / Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" B) Skirt. Street-length, straight skirt with slight darts around waist for fitting. 1 1/8" wide waistband, with inner beige grosgrain petersham. Waistband and petersham with hook-and-eye closures over left side zipper. Skirt has 4 wide bands of embroidery, each band consisting of rows of beige fan-shapes. Unlined. No labels in skirt.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Coat

Coat

Date: 1948
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Daytime coat of camel brown/tan wool. Street-length or longer, with rounded shawl collar. Double breasted with 6 large circular black silk faille-covered buttons in two vertical rows of 3 each; bound buttonholes. Closure reinforced with two small circular black plastic buttons inside. Two slit. Double welt pockets at sides. Long sleeves with turned-back cuffs showing black silk faille lining. The coat is lined in black silk, with wide bands of black silk faille at cuffs, collar, and sides of opening. Combined retailer's and designer's label at inside back neck: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Derby Hat

Derby Hat

Date: 1948
Creator: Louise Inc.
Description: Hat in derby style of navy felt. Edge of crown trimmed in wide bands of navy, gray and red yarn with very narrow gold thread knots tied to tasseled ends of yarn bands. Unlined with navy grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Maker/retailer's label: "A / Neiman / Marcus / Original"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dinner Dress

Dinner Dress

Date: 1948
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Formal dinner dress of black wool crepe and lavender satin. Bodice of lavender satin with short, puffed sleeves and low rounded neckline in front, higher in back. Sleeves with elastic gathering at openings. Front of bodice with vertical gathers. Back with open slit and lavender satin drawstring closure at neckline. Empire waist. Skirt of black wool crepe, full-length. Center back zipper in skirt begins at join to bodice where bodice is slit. Unlined. Combined designer's/retailer's label sewn in skirt, behind Neiman-Marcus id label: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble

Ensemble

Date: 1948
Creator: Carnegie, Hattie
Description: Ensemble of black wool. The outfit consists of: A) Dress of black wool. Street-length skirt has attached low front leather belt which passes through pleats on left and right. Bodice has narrow collar and deep V-neck with piping that twists at base of V. Bracelet length sleeves with cuffs. Back zipper. No labels. B) Jacket of black wool. Jacket has long sleeves with rolled, notched cuffs, and a notched collar. Center front opening has 5 circular, plastic buttons and covered buttonholes. The padded hips have double welt pockets at left and right. The jacket is lined in black silk. Combined Designer/Retailer label: "Neiman-Marcus dallas / Hattie Carnegie" National Recovery Board / Coat and Suit Industry label "000006"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Dress

Evening Dress

Date: 1948/1952
Creator: unknown
Description: Evening dress of champagne peau de soie. Princess style. Sweetheart neckline in front, with small horizontal pleats at front left and right princess seaming at upper part of bust; back neckline is low and rounded. 1-1/2 inch wide shoulder straps that split in front to form an inverted Y, with horizontal band of same fabric at dividing point. Natural waist. Skirt is below knee length, at at hips has three almost horizontal bias folds which extend to from hip center back and join to form bow; lower sash ends of the bow attach to skirt to form "bustle drape", giving added fullness. Attached net petticoat gathered to taffeta yoke; back zipper. Retailer's label at left side seam: "Neiman-Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1948
Creator: Norma's Creations (Dallas, Tex.)
Description: Hat of gray felt. Styled similarly to a fedora, the hat has a high cylindrical crown with the top of the crown sunken in slightly. Around the base of the crown is a band of dark blue/gray grosgrain ribbon, with a bow at side. The medium-width brim slants down slightly at front, and turns up slightly at back. Hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of dark blue/gray grosgrain ribbon at inside base of crown. Manufacturer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Norma's / Creations / Dallas".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1948
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Skirt suit of chocolate wool with velvet cuffs. A) Fitted jacket of chocolate wool in woven, checked pattern. Single breasted with 5 self covered buttons and bound buttonholes. Notched collar of brown velvet with self fabric lapels. Long sleeved with turn-up cuff of brown velvet and two small self covered buttons and bound buttonholes on each sleeve. Lined in brown taffeta. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell B) Skirt of chocolate wool in woven, checked pattern. Wide, flared A-line with 10 panel construction. 1 1/2" waistband with center back lapped zipper and hook & eye closure at waistband. Lined in brown taffeta.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Suit - Jacket and Skirt

Suit - Jacket and Skirt

Date: 1948
Creator: Dessès, Jean
Description: Suit (jacket and skirt) of dark brown wool consisting of: Jacket. Single breasted with notched lapel. The center front opening is slightly angled from top left to lower right and has three circular, dark brown, plastic buttons and tailored buttonholes. Long, set-in sleeves have three nonfunctional, smaller, matching buttons with tailored buttonholes at hem. Torso tapers to fitted, natural waist and flares to hips. Vertical, double welt, very shallow side pockets. Lapel, center front opening and hem of sleeves trimmed in thin, black piping. Princess seaming. Lightly padded shoulders. Lined in black silk jacquard with repeated "Jean Dessés" pattern. Skirt. Street length; slightly A-lined. Designed to appear as a wrapped skirt with diagonal opening from left hip to right side hem with five nonfunctional buttons matching jacket, and tailored buttonholes. At center front, from knee height to left side hem, is simulated opening backed by same fabric. Opening has black piping matching jacket. Left side zipper with two hook & eyes on narrow waistband. Lined in black silk, with exception of front panel.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1947
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Brown print silk dress with belt and umbrella. A) Full-length silk dress printed with brown/white/black over-all pattern of large leaves or pinecones on stems. Wide, shallow neckline. Side zipper. Sleeveless, with sleeves edged with cut-out leaf shapes from the print. Hem with same treatment. A-line skirt. Unlined. Combined Designer/Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Belt of same fabric, backed in cream leather, with rectangular, fabric-covered buckle. C) Umbrella. Not pictured.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1947
Creator: Irene
Description: Hat of natural straw in boater style, with tiny brim and very shallow crown. Ochre velvet ribbon as trim around crown; wine colored small flowers on back where ribbon ends in bow; tan netting covers crown. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Irene / New York" Retailer's label on inside hatband next to designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1947
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Skirt suit of black silk faille. The two-piece skirt consists of a jacket and skirt. The jacket is of mid-hip length, with shawl collar, long sleeves, and center-front opening which secures with three circular buttons covered with black faille and embroidered with a stylized "M" or Scorpio symbol. At upper front collarbone area are two applied strips of black faille which form "tabs", and there are similar sewn-in patches of same. Front hip pocket, and another "tab" on other hip. The skirt is street length, with similar patches and tabs. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original" Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Sling-Back Pumps

Sling-Back Pumps

Date: 1947/1949
Creator: Palter DeLiso
Description: Pair of sling-back pumps of black calf leather. Shoes have a narrow platform and are open toe. Rounded throat on vamp, which is decorated with applied oval detailing in 3 layers. Center layer of black grosgrain, upper and lower layers of black leather. Oval cut-out in center of detail. Ankle-strap fastens with small rectangular black metal buckles. 3" black-lacquered French set-under heel similar to a spike form. Handwritten in side of each shoe: "6 1/2 B / r28514 / 1510-6BF" Stamped inside both shoes: "Palter DeLiso / Capri / Last" Stamped in left shoe: "Palter DeLiso inc / New York City" Right shoe with inlaid woven cloth label: "Neiman Marcus Co. Dallas / Fenwyn / Trade Mark Reg'd"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte

Calotte

Date: 1946
Creator: Mye, Edna
Description: Calotte of off-white satin. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the low domed crown is covered with smooth off-white satin at front, ending in scalloped edges along front and sides with thin self piped edge with loops at upper points of the scallops; at rear, the hat has the same off-white satin folded, draped, and pleated, with a straight edge along the base. Interior of hat partly lined at front with an off-white damask/brocade fabric, the rest showing the net under-structure of the hat. Accompanied by two hatpins with oval heads covered with matching off-white satin. Maker's label inside: "Edna Mye / Dallas"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte

Calotte

Date: 1946/1949
Creator: Mye, Edna
Description: Hat of purple felt. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat consists of a domed crown of purple felt, which extends down on the right side. Tied horizontally around the front of the crown is a wide band of purple taffeta, which passes through slits on the sides of the crown, and emerges towards the back of the right side, tied to become a large "pouf". The hat is lined in purple satin. Maker's label sewn into lining of hat: "Edna Mye / Dallas". The hat is accompanied by two short hatpins, the heads covered with purple felt that matches the hat.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cloche

Cloche

Date: 1946/1949
Creator: Rousseau, Marcelle
Description: Hat of cotton batik. Styled as a cloche-form turban, the domed crown is constructed of gathered/pleated and wrapped cotton fabric with batik design in beige/brown and blue on white ground. There is no brim. The hat is lined in cream satin, and has an inner hatband of brown grosgrain ribbon along the inside lower edge of the crown. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Marcelle Rousseau / Dallas".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
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