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UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Texas Fashion Collection
- Ensemble - Dress and Coat
A) Coat of cream and orange wool gabardine. Approximately knee-length cream wool coat, with rounded neckline. Asymmetrical front opening set to left of center with 5 large circular white ceramic or plastic buttons with bound buttonholes. Long sleeves with orange cuffs buttoning with two matching buttons. Three orange flap pockets - two on right, one on left - with bound slit pocket under flap. Collar, opening, cuffs, and pocket flaps of orange wool gabardine. Lined in cream silk crepe.
Designer's label inside at back collar: "Norell".
Retailer's label at inside right seam: "Esther Wolf / Houston"
B) Dress of bright orange wool gaberdine. Knee-length, with rounded neckline. Sleeveless. Bust darts. Wide straps. Left shoulder with 5 hook-and-eyes closure. Left side zipper at bodice, and second zipper and three hook and eyes at skirt. Skirt slightly gathered at natural waistline. Side seam pockets. Lined in orange silk.
Designer's label at inside skirt lining seam: "Norman Norell / New York"
Union Label near designer's label.
Care label inside at left side seam: "DO NOT USE STEAM IRON"
Small label at inside front neckline: "FRONT" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330340/
Sailor hat of natural straw cloth with wide red velvet band and bow under brim formed as part of hatband. Small brim also has narrow band of red velvet around outside edge on top.
Size label: "22 1/2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277120/
( At left) Raincoat of black vinyl. The modified A-line coat is of short length, extending to just at or below the knee, and has long sleeves. Center-front opening is secured with 3 silver/chrome clip closures, one at the rounded neckline and two at waist. There is one patch pocket at the right hip. The coat is fully lined in synthetic with vertical stripes of pink, green, blue, violet, and red on a black ground.
Manufacturer's label inside at center back just below neckline: "La Flaque / de Paris". At right inside side-seam is a Union Label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30086/
- Breton Hat
Breton style hat of shiny red straw with pillbox crown. High, rolled back brim almost obscures crown. Red grosgrain ribbon covered button and streamers at center top of crown. Wide, red grosgrain ribbon forms hatband around crown. Unlined.
Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Sanger Harris / Dallas"
Size tag: "22" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277129/
- Breton Hat
Modified Breton hat of natural straw cloth with beige grosgrain ribbon as hatband and around edge of crown. Lined in cream colored satin.
Designer's label: "Jan Leslie / Custom Design" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277052/
Coat of pea green wool. A-line, double-breasted, with eight smooth, round beige plastic buttons with four bound buttonholes. Pointed, rolled collar. Vertical, single-welt pockets at each side. Long, set-in sleeves. Lined in celery green taffeta.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Norman Norell / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330529/
Hat of light brown straw. Hat has a cylindrical crown with flattened top. Around the lower part of the crown is a wide light brown grosgrain ribbon with loop and trailing ribbons at side, secured with two wooden buttons. The wide brim turns down at front and up at back. Unlined, with inner hatband of pale grosgrain ribbon.
Label inside: "Elizabeth" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276999/
Hat of black, white, and silver artificial straw. Somewhat in a pillbox style, the cylindrical crown has a flattened top with a slight "overhang" on all sides, and is designed with the straw couched down on the top, running in parallel bands of color from side to side. Sides of crown covered in 2" wide band of shiny black vinyl like patent leather, with a swallow-tail pennant segment extending from the back of the hat. Lined in white fabric.
Label sewn to back of inner headband: "Sally Victor / Headlines"
Tag attached to label: "55₵" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277027/
Homemade, long-sleeved shirt of gold brocade, with straight button front, in the popular Elvis Presley or Renaissance style of the late 1960's. Multiple ballooned areas on the sleeves. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30324/
Pair of shoes of green leather. Styled as "sling-backs" with an open, rounded toe. The sides of the instep are connected by a square gold colored metal link. The strap at back heel is closed, with no buckle. The 3 3/4" high heel tapers slightly to base.
Maker's mark stamped inside: "Palizzio"
Handwritten inside: "5 B 1978 / 113PL83" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87000/
- Pillbox Hat
Pillbox style hat of red straw cloth with small narrow brim. Wide, red grosgrain ribbon around crown topped with red vinyl ribbon and bow with top stitching. Inside crown lined in net.
Manufacturer's label on inside hatband: "Ceder Crest / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277167/
Day dress of red wool jersey knit with matching belt.
a) Day dress of red jersey wool knit in shift style. Asymmetric neckline with pointed collar. Left side opening of six circular red plastic buttons with bound buttonholes and large covered snap at neckline. Short dolman sleeves. Knee length. Two large patch pockets below waistline. Lined in red silk.
Designer's label at inside left seam of lining near hemline: "Norman Norell / New York"
b) Belt of self. 3/4" wide. Attaches to dress at back. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330451/
- Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of white simulated alligator in free form with 3 bows of same. Hat and bows trimmed with white glass beads. Two brown combs attached to inside grosgrain hatband for securing hat to head. Navy veil interspersed with groups of 3 white glass beads matching those on hat.
Designer's label: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago"
Handwritten label attached to hatband: "82" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38100/
- Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat in cut out triangular shape of white leather with white glass beaded edges on leather strips. Bow of same on center front top. Bow at center back of white glass beads. Navy veil. Two small combs, one attached on each side.
Designer's label on inside band: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38077/
Cloche hat of medium brown coiled and plaited fibers. The high crown is crafted of spiraling band of plaited and coiled brown yarn(?)and incorporates looped sections, with iridescent flat ribbon wrapped around elements of the band. There is a horizontal "tuck" at back of hat, and a slight "visor" effect at front. The hat is unlined.
Retailer's label sewn inside crown: "Made in France for / Neiman-Marcus".
While in the style of a 1920's/1930's cloche, the materials, label, and construction date this piece to the 1960's. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39235/
- Cloche Hat
Cloche style hat of black shiny straw. Edge curls up and makes small brim on center back. Lined in black net with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband.
Designer's label on inside headband: "Galanos" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305367/
- Cloche Hat
Cloche style hat of black felt with 2' flared brim. Hatband of 1" black grosgrain ribbon with simple bow in front. Unlined with black grosgrain inner headband.
Stamp on inside crown: "100% Wool / Starfire / Melange / Blend-Felt / Henry Pollak, Inc. / New York"
Retailer's label on inside headband: "Parkridge / Exclusives" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286858/
Coat of purple wool. Double breasted with 8 large, round, purple plastic buttons and 4 bound buttonholes. Long sleeved with slight flair to hem. Knee length. A-line with two vertical welt pockets. Rounded neckline with 1-1/4" mandarin collar. Lined in light purple silk taffeta.
Designer's label: "Norman Norell / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330372/
- Coat Dress
A) Coat-dress of beige linen with black linen trim at collar, center front and pockets. Knee-length. Rounded, Peter-Pan collar. Elbow length kimono sleeves. Center front opening with 3 circular black buttons at top and zipper from waist to hem. Two large patch pockets placed low on hips wrap around side seam from front to back. Lined in cream silk.
B) Belt of self fabric backed with pale tan leather, 1 in wide. Rectangular cloth-covered buckle in self fabric.
Combined retailer and designer label inside skirt: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330468/
- Day Dress
Day dress of navy blue wool knit. Knee-length with princess seams. 1-1/2 inch standing collar. Short set-in sleeves. Two large patch pockets placed low on hip wrap around side seam from front to back. Centered zipper closure at back. Lined in navy silk.
Designer label at left inside seam near hem: "Norman Norell / New York"
3 inch wide black patent leather belt with patent buckle.
Stamped in gold on back of belt: " 6 Norman Norell" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330472/
- Day Dress
a) Day dress in shift style of light blue-green sage jersey wool knit. Street length. Center front opening with 11 circular blue-green plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Convertible collar with 5" pointed ends and small non-functioning matching button and bound buttonhole at ends. Long sleeves with 3" cuffs and two small matching buttons with bound buttonholes. Two large patch pockets at sides, below waist. Lined in light sage colored silk crepe.
Designer's label at inside left seam of lining: "Norman Norell / New York"
Retailer's label at inside back neckline: "Lou Lattimore / Dallas"
b) Matching belt of self. 7' x 8" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330448/
- Day Dress
Day dress of ecru wool jersey with black patent leather belt and black satin bow.
a) Shift day dress of ecru wool jersey. Long, set-in sleeves. Street length. Rolled collar with pointed ends. Center front opening with 9 circular, flat, 3/4" black plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Large patch pockets at sides below hips. Lined in cream silk.
Designer's label on inside lining at left seam near hem: "Norman Norell / New York"
Retailer's label at center back neckline: "Lou Lattimore / Dallas"
b) Large bow of black silk. Attaches under collar of dress with two large covered snaps.
c) Belt of black patent leather. 1" wide with self covered rectangular buckle. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330455/
- Day Dress
Day dress of yellow wool knit. Sleeveless; rounded neckline; A-line. Center front opening with 6 rounded, yellow plastic button; bound buttonholes. Two horizontal welt pockets at sides. Banded half-belt of self at back attached at side seams. Lined in yellow silk.
Designer's label on inside lining near hemline: "Norman Norell / New York"
Retailer's label on inside front neckline: "Marie Leavell" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330520/
- Day Dress Ensemble
Ensemble of turquoise blue linen.
a) Day dress of turquoise blue linen. Set-in waistline. Sleeveless with wide armholes designed to show side panels of camisole under dress. Below knee length. Shallow, wide rounded bateau neckline slightly lower in back. Center back closure of three self-covered buttons with snap and bound buttonholes cut on a slant. Zippers at left and right with hook & eyes. Lined in matching turquoise blue silk.
Combined designer/retailer label on inside lining at right seam near hem: "Norman Norell for Neiman-Marcus"
b) Camisole of white silk satin with turquoise blue linen side panels. Narrow shoulder straps of white organdy. Center back zipper closure.
c) Stole of turquoise blue linen; 12-3/8" x 50".
d) Narrow tie belt of turquoise blue linen; 7/8" x 62-1/2". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330489/
- Dinner Dress
Dinner dress of black silk taffeta. Sleeveless. Jewel neckline with binding that forms tie in back. Zipper closure at center back extending below waist with hook & eye at neckline and snap at bottom. Pleated bodice and skirt with with non-pleated waist block. Tea length. Unlined with petersham of black grosgrain ribbon fastened with hook & eye. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330535/
Dress. Floor-length dress of ivory knit, overlaid with a gold netting. Sleeveless and with a boat-neckline, the sheath-style dress has ornate heavy gold cording around neckline, armholes, along side-seams, and hem. The skirt has small side slits, and a center lapped zipper closure located along center-back of garment with hook-and-eye closure at top of zipper. Lined with a light polyester. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30309/
Dress of bright lime green wool. Knee-lenght and sleeveless, with a high neckline ornamented with 6 rows of topstitching. Empire waisted, with the lower portion of dress split into four long panels, scalloped to form petals with quilted, topstitched edges. Center back zipper with two hook & eyes. Upper portion of dress lined in lime colored acetate.
Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York"
Retailer's label beneath designer's label: "Marie Leavell" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286835/
Dress of cashmere knit with motif in black, gray and pinks. Designer's signature of "Emilio" in the fabric print. Long sleeves; round, bateau neckline. Knee length. Center back zipper.
Designer's label at inside right back: "Emilio Pucci / Florence - Italy / Made in Italy"
Retailer's label on inside left back: "Neiman-Marcus / Trophy Room" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286787/
Dress of bright red wool. Sleeveless; jewel neckline; knee length. Empire waist with inserted panel, quilted and top-stitched. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Kick pleat opening at center front seam. Lined in bright orange silk.
Designer's label at inside, back neckline: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286919/
Dress of black wool knit. Skirt gathers into waistline seam. Five rhinestone buttons at center front opening below waist and seven above; closure at neckline reinforced with two snaps. Hook and eye at waistline. Long set-in sleeves with five working buttons each. Knee-length. Black satin bow which is attached at the neckline. Clear rhinestone buttons are formed by large center stone surrounded by 10 smaller stones. Side slit pockets. Unlined.
Retailer's label at inside neckline: "Balliets / Oklahoma City, Okla."
Belt of black satin. Three inches wide with rectangular self covered buckle. Three rectangular machine-made, barred buttonhole style buckle holes.
Back of belt stamped: "6 Norman Norell" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330480/
A) Dress of red wool knit. Knee length with set-in waistline. Center front opening with 3 large circular black button with bound buttonholes above waistline and hook & eye and two snaps on interior of waistband. Short dolman sleeves with gussets. Fold down collar with open, pointed ends. Side slit pockets. Lined in red silk crepe.
Combined designer/retailer label on lining at left seam near hemline: "Norman Norell for Neiman-Marcus"
B) Black leather belt. Two-inches wide with rectangular buckle covered in self.
Reverse stamped: "8 / Christian Dior / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330494/
a) Dress of silk knit with orange, pink, lime, purple, white and black motif. Signature of designer "Emilio" in fabric pattern. Round, bateau neckline; elbow length sleeves. Below knee length.
Designer's label on inside back neckline: "Emilio Pucci / Florence - Italy / 100% Pure Silk / Made in Italy"
Retailer's label below designer's label: "Made in Italy Exclusively For / Saks Fifth Avenue"
Cleaning instructions and size tag at base of retailer's label.
b) Tie belt of same fabric. Fringe of clear blue beads on ends. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286867/
Ensemble of oatmeal colored wool tweed:
a) Jacket of beige and black wool tweed with V-neckline with standard notched collar and wide lapels; short, princess seams; 3/4 length, set in, two piece sleeves; double breasted opening with four round, plastic, beige buttons and two bound buttonholes supplemented by single large covered snap inside lap at waist; fully lined in beige silk. Label stitched inside back neck below collar.
b) Dress of same; sleeveless; falling just below the knee; deep rounded neckline; empire waist seam; straight skirt has slight gathers in front; left side underarm zipper closure supplemented by single hook&eye closure; folded hem; armhole and neck facings; brassiere strap keepers snap inside shoulders; unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30050/
- Ensemble - Coat and Dress
Ensemble consisting of a coat and dress. The mid-length coat is of knit with a printed pattern of blue geometric shapes on a bright red ground, and has long sleeves and moderate collar with rounded points. Center-front opening with 4 square dark blue plastic buttons. Across back of coat is an attached belt of the same fabric, with buttons at each side, but does not extend around to the front. Fully lined in dark blue fabric. The mid-length dress is of the same fabric, and has short sleeves, a rounded neckline, and flares slightly to hem. The dress has a center-back zipper closure and is lined in the same fabric as the coat.
Coat has a single retailer's label: "Lou Lattimore / Dallas" inside back at collar.
Dress has slightly smaller version of same label, sewn inside at left of zipper near neckline. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30209/
- Ensemble - Dress, Bodice, and Stole
Ensemble of wine red linen, consisting of:
A) Dress of wine red linen. Jumper-style, the seamed bodice has a wide, rounded neckline and is sleeveless. The skirt gathers slightly into the waist, which dips slightly to hips. Two slit pockets at side skirt seams just below waist. Center back opening, with 5 large circular wine red plastic buttons, a hook-and-eye at waist, two hidden snaps at neckline, and two hidden snaps below waist. Fully lined in red silk.
Designer's label: "Norman Norell / New York"
B) Under-bodice of wine red silk and wine red linen. Cropped bodice of silk with low, rounded neckline, and center front opening with 5 hook-and-eyes. Short sleeves of wine red linen to match dress.
No labels in under-bodice.
C) Stole of matching fabric. 50" x 12" rectangle, formed as a tube.
No labels in shawl.
Size 10 or 12.
Note: Outer dress can be worn with or without under-bodice, giving the dress the appearance of being either sleeved or sleeveless. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330419/
- Evening Dress
Cocktail or short evening dress of ivory crocheted lace over pink satin back shantung with pink self belt. Machine made lace of Venetian type with re-embroidered medallions. Dress with natural waistline, bateau neckline, sleeveless and slightly full skirt. Back zipper with hook & eye. Weighted hem.
Has been altered at waist (cut) to shorten. Atypical of Norell.
Designer's label at center back hem: "Norman Norell / New York"
Union label on opposite side of seam from designer's label (most cut off). digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283745/
- Evening Gown
Evening gown of white silk crepe. Full-length sleeveless dress with round neck and narrow straps and Empire waist. The bodice is heavily beaded with mirror beads and silver rhinestones. The skirt has vertical columns of beads and has heavy beading on hem. Zipper closure along center back. The dress is fully lined in cream fabric. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30180/
- Evening Pumps
Pair of reddish-pink or coral silk satin evening pumps. Square toe shoes which have a large open area on the vamp which is backed by clear plastic and edged by braid. The plastic is overlaid with a metal net or chain mail with rhinestones at the intersections. 2 1/4" square heel covered with same material. Lined in off-white/gray leather.
Stamped inside each shoe: "Made in Italy / Espressly / For / Lou Lattimore" (Espressly rather than Expressly); and "Creation Mancini / Paris / Waltea made in Italy"
Stamped on sole of each shoe: "8" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277042/
- Evening Pumps
Pair of evening pumps of gold leather. The shoes are designed with rounded toe, and plain uppers. High, chunky heel is rounded at back and tapers slightly to base.
Brand label stamped inside: "Rinaldi"; and "Rinaldi / Wool Composition Heels"
Retailer's label stamped inside: "Designer Collections Lord & Taylor"
Handwritten inside: "S B 34458 19 / 43-2008" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277070/
- Evening Shoes
Pair of evening shoes of gold metallic lace. Designed with a rounded toe, the shoes have uppers of mesh embroidered with gold wire to create a lace with scrolling forms throughout. Uppers with scalloped upper edge. 2" heel of white leather, tapering to base.
Stamped inside: "DeLiso Debs"
Stamped inside: "4 1/2B 31521 2 / 90 760-81" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277059/
- Evening Shoes
Pair of evening shoes of purple satin. Designed with pointed toes, the shoes have three paired rhinestone-set stripes running across the toes: the first with a stripe of black and yellow, the second with a stripe of black and red, the third with a stripe of black and green. High spike heel covered in matching purple satin.
Maker's mark stamped inside: "Herbert Levine"
Retailer's label stamped inside: "Neiman-Marcus"
Handwritten inside: "4B 7889 H9913-4LR" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277061/
Fez of off-white felt with long off-white satin tassel attached at the center of the crown.
Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Made to Order Hat / Bergdorf / Goodman / On the Plaza - New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277173/
- Hair Net
Brown hairnet embellished with brown chenille dots and 3 brown velvet ribbon bows.
Retailer's label: "Saks Fifth Avenue" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277062/
Hat of wine-red velvet. When seen from above, the low crown is shaped as a quatrefoil, with four projecting, down-turned lobes. The sides of crown and the lobes have black braid appliques of scrolling forms. Inside of the crown is lined in black fabric and has a coral/faded pink grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. On either side are stiff black-covered wire loops to help secure hat to wearer's head.
Sewn to inner ribbon band is label: Sally Victor / 18 East 53rd St" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30125/
Hat of white straw with high crown and headband of white organza which end in bow at side and forms ruffle around brim. Style sometimes referred to as a flower-pot hat. Unlined.
Manufacturer's label: "Valerie / Modes"
Picture hat of natural woven Milan straw, forming a wide shaped brim that curves downwards to the edges. Brim is rounded in front, flaring out slightly to back and forming two projecting lobes at back. Around brim is a band of woven straw for strength. Very low cylindrical crown, slightly domed. Around crown is twisted gold velvet band forming bow with trailing ribbons at back. Inside base of crown is off-white grosgrain ribbon band. Hatpin with green faceted rhinestone head.
Sewn into inner ribbon band is label: "John Fredericks Inc. / New York", "Made In America". Label has three rhinestones sewn to it, and has two small green ribbon bows at opposing corners. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277152/
Hat of green artificial leaves. Designed somewhat as a cloche, the body of the hat is a stiffened mesh forming a domed crown which is completely overlaid with overlapping green artificial leaves. The hat is unlined, with an inner green grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Designer's label: "Original Design by / Madcaps / Paris New York":
Retailer's label: "I. Magnin & Co." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283751/
Hat of fine cream straw. The rounded crown is encircled at lower edge by wide pleated band of organdy in graduated shades of pink, tied at right side, with ends extending below the brim. The narrow brim turns up at front and left side, and down at back and right side. Hat is unlined, with inner cream grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Designer's label: "Maureen / B-Way - At 89th N.Y.C." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277028/
Hat of black felt wool felt. Possibly for riding, the hat has a cylindrical crown 2" high, slightly domed at top. Encircling the base of the crown is a narrow band of black suede, tied at side. The narrow brim is of the same black felt. material. From sides and back of hat hang a panel of black jersey to protect the wearer's neck from sun. The panel is cut to create extending ties at sides, which secure under wearer's chin. Unlined, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner headband.
Designer's label sewn to back headband: "Clover Lane"
Stamped inside front of crown: "[coat of arms] / Glenover / Faurn(?) To(?) / Felt / (illegible) / New York / 100% Wool" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283701/
Hat of stiffened net and artificial flowers. The hat is formed of a body of stiffened white net. The crown is domed, and has scattered white artificial flowers (4-petaled, possibly stylized dogwood, apple blossoms, or narcissus). The wide brim is upturned at outside to form a deep "well" around the crown, and is more thickly covered with the artificial flowers, primarily on the underside of the brim, from the crown outwards to the upturned edge. The hat is unlined, with a white banding around lower inside edge of crown.
Maker's(?) label inside: "Jack McOnnell" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283670/