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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Decade: 1940-1949
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Day Dress
Day dress of brown silk damask in fine diamond pattern. The dress is in wrap-around style, with asymmetric neckline with wide, shawl collar on the left. Street length. Opening buttons on bodice at left with 4 circular, brown buttons and bound buttonholes, hook & eye at natural waist and two snaps where skirt attaches to peplum. Peplum is asymmetric and longer on left. Long dolman sleeves with underarm gussets and folded back cuffs. With matching belt.
Coat Dress
Coat dress of navy silk faille with padded hips. Notched collar; single button closure. Long sleeves with vertical pleat across back shoulder to each sleeve hem. Lower mid-length skirt. Two crescent shaped pieces of fabric at hips with faux pocket detail gives the appearance of a separate jacket. Designer's label on inner right waist side seam: "Christian Dior/ New York/ Original" Tag above designer's label: "Fall 1949" Retailer's label on back of neck: "Neiman-Marcus/ Dallas" Belt of matching navy leather. Stamped on back of belt: "10 Christian Dior / New York"
Cocktail Dress
A) Cocktail dress of blue silk satin. Sleeveless with spaghetti straps of same. Set-in waist which scallops at bottom hem and attaches to panels of full skirt. Tea length. Left side zipper with hook & eye. Skirt lined in black tulle. Combined retailer/designer label at inside left seam near hem: "Neiman-Marcus dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Belt of same with rectangular, self covered buckle. 1/2 inch wide.
Cocktail Ensemble - Bodice and Skirt
Cocktail ensemble of mauve damask satin with woven pattern of small flowers consisting of: A) Bodice/top. Sleeveless, with 1" shoulder straps and 3" fold around neckline. Left side zipper opening from bottom to almost neckline. Unlined. B) Skirt, of matching fabric with scattered groups of "smoked"? sequins. Floor length, A-line, with wide, 3" waistband. Center back zipper. Unlined.
D'Orsay Pumps
Pair of brown suede D'Orsay Pumps. The shoes have brown suede rounded toe box and heel area, but are open at sides to the sole. Small inverted V cut at front creating "peep-toe" effect. On top of vamp is sewn on brown suede "tie" forming the effect of a bow. Brown suede ankle strap. Thick 3 1/2" high spike heel covered in brown suede. Marked inside heel of both shoes: "17061-1 / 6 S / 11310X"; Stamped on sole of both shoes: "Pandora / Footwear" The D'Orsay Pumps style of shoes is named after Count d'Orsay, a 19th century leader of French Society.
Ensemble - Blouse, Skirt, Belt, Purse
Cocktail or dinner dress ensemble of pale blue/green satin brocade with design of acanthus and thistle/leaf in dark green and golden yellow, consisting of: A) Blouse. Short sleeves with 2" rolled cuffs and shawl collar. Center front opening has 4 self-covered buttons above waist, and 6 hook-and-loops below waist on peplum for securing into skirt. Fitted seaming and pleats centered on waist. Unlined. Label inside top at left side seam: "Made in France / Christian Dior / Paris" and stamped on label: "05456" B) Skirt of matching brocade. The mid-length skirt is double box pleated from narrow waistband. Center back zipper with hook-and-eyes at waistband. Unlined. C) Petticoat of ivory moiré satin. Mid-length, with narrow waistband. Center back zipper with hook-and-eye at waistband. E) Belt of green silk-covered ivory leather with rectangular silk-covered buckle. (not in photographs) D) Purse of green silk.
Ensemble - Evening Gown and Stole
a) Evening gown of black wool and silk taffeta; top of wool with low scooped, curved neckline cut deep in back with 3/4 sleeves; fitted bodice extends to hip; skirt of silk taffeta; gathered; with silk underskirt. b) Stole of black wool with silk ruffled ends.
Lady's gray felt hat. Styled along the lines of a fedora, the gray felt crown is basically cylindrical with dished top and some shaping to provide a front "prow". Set at top edge of crown at back is a bow of matching gray felt ribbon. Around the base of the crown is a wide band of matching grosgrain ribbon as hatband. The shallow brim is set off-center, wider at front and sides than back. Brim curves down. Inside of hat is unlined, but has inner hatband of cream grosgrain ribbon. Maker's stamp on inner hatband: [Coat of arms] Stetson / Fifth Avenue" Retailer's stamp on inner hatband: "W. A. Green Co. / Dallas, Tex." Size tag sewn to inner hatband: "22 1/2"
Hat of dark blue wool felt with pillbox-style crown and stiffened downward brim. Trimmed with wide grosgrain ribbon and shaped net. Designer's label: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York"
Pamela or halo style hat of tan ballibuntt straw with brim folded back. Narrow cream colored hatband and netting/veil with small daisies decorate brim. Lined. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Made to Order Hat / Bergdorf / Goodman / Fifth Ave. at 58th St."
Hat of dark beige and cream felt. Designed as a modified Breton hat, the low, domed crown of dark beige felt is encircled by a cream velvet tube through which are strung four large dark beige braided flower-head forms. The circular brim is turned up, forming a "wall" around the crown. The brim is overlaid with a narrow band of black lace net veiling, with scattered "fuzzies" on some of the intersections. The underside of the brim is lined in cream velvet. The crown is unlined, and there is a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Retailer's label inside: "Made to Order Hat / Bergdorf / Goodman / Fifth Ave at 58th St."
Cloche style hat of navy blue felt with cream veil in back. Two white pompoms with gold base. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Made to Order Hat / Bergdorf / Goodman / Fifth Ave. at 58th St."
Hat of navy felt. The low, domed crown is encircled at the base by a "rope" of cream velvet which forms a twisting form at front left. The rope has scattered white bugle beads throughout. The small brim is curved downwards, and is wider at front and sides than at back. The underside of the brim is lined in cream velvet, and the crown is unlined. The hat has an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Label: "Made to order hat / Bergdorf / Goodman / Fifth Ave. at 58th St."
Hat of navy felt with eight-pointed brim. Brim lined in white silk. Crown trimmed with navy felt band and grosgrain ribbon with bow in back. Veiled in front. Hatpin in back with head of same felt. Retailer's label inside hatband: "Made to Order Hat / Bergdorf / Goodman / Fifth Ave. at 58th St."
Hat of brown felt. The low, slightly domed crown is almost hidden by the upturned brim. At front facing of brim is large flat brown grosgrain ribbon bow. Around the base of the crown is affixed brown net veiling. The hat is unlined, with inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband. Combined designer's/retailer's label inside: "Leslie James / Designed for Sakowitz / Houston" Manufacturer's style stamp inside crown: "Midi / Imported Velour Body / Made in France"
Hat of gray fur felt. The derby style hat is made of a single piece of stiffened gray fur felt. The low, domed crown is encircled near the base by a band of black grosgrain ribbon, with a bow at back. The 2" wide brim curves upwards at edges. Hat is unlined, and has a band of black grosgrain ribbon inside at base of crown. Attached to the inner ribbon is a small plastic comb to secure the hat to wearer's head. Designer's label sewn to inner ribbon: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York / 78 East 56th Street, N.Y."
Hatlet of beaded hot pink satin. Brimless, the crown of the hat is shaped somewhat like a letter "K", the back of the K fitting across the head from ear to ear, while the arms extend to the back of the head. The whole is embellished with pink and gray/green beads, and with pink heart-shaped and teardrop shaped rhinestones. Lined in white and silver brocade, with small plastic comb affixed to center front inside edge to secure to wearer's head. Designer's label at center of inside crown: "Edna Mye / Dallas" Accompanied by two hatpins with heads covered in same hot pink satin.
D'Orsay Pumps
D'Orsay pumps of black suede. The shoes have cut-away sides, and rounded toes. The toe-box is formed by openwork black suede arching/interlaced arching shapes. The heel is formed by three crossing, wrap-around black suede ankle straps with small silver buckles. High, French heel covered in black suede. Marked on heel strap of both shoes: "26609-7 / 6N", "10305x"; Stamped on lining at heel: "324 / Last"; Stamped on lining "Pandora / Footwear".
Suit - Jacket and Skirt
Suit of taupe wool consisting of: A) Jacket. Single breasted with closure of two large, plastic, textured taupe colored buttons and bound buttonholes. Notched collar and long, set-in sleeves. Two pleated plackets at sides of waistline with bound openings create loops for belt. Lined in matching silk jacquard of "Christian Dior" pattern. Designer's label at inside left opening: "Christian Dior-New York, Inc." Evidence of removed label at center back neckline. B) Skirt. Slightly A-lined with left side zipper and hook & eye. 1" waistband. Lined in rust colored silk crepe. C) Self-covered belt with rectangular buckle. 1-1/2" wide. Stamped on reverse: "16 Christian Dior / New York, Inc"
Suit - Jacket and Skirt
Suit of beige linen with bands of beige silk embroidered fan-shapes. Suit consists of: A) Jacket. Waist-length or slightly longer, single-breasted, with 5 self-covered and embroidered conical buttons and bound button holes. Long sleeves with turned-back cuffs secured at openings. Bust darts for fitting. Collar and lapels with bands of same embroidery as rest of suit. Single pocket above left breast, with bound buttonhole style opening, and smaller bound buttonhole style opening horizontally above main opening. Lined in beige silk. Torso of jacket with three horizontal bands of beige embroidered bands of fan shapes, sleeves with two bands, and then with cuffs covered with the embroidery. Combined designer's/retailer's label at inside back neckline: "Irene / Exclusively for / Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" B) Skirt. Street-length, straight skirt with slight darts around waist for fitting. 1 1/8" wide waistband, with inner beige grosgrain petersham. Waistband and petersham with hook-and-eye closures over left side zipper. Skirt has 4 wide bands of embroidery, each band consisting of rows of beige fan-shapes. Unlined. No labels in skirt.
Beret of off-white wool. Lined in striped green satin. Stamped in gold on inside crown: " Anglobasque / de Luxe / Made in / Cumberland - England / 100% Pure Wool"
Beret of black wool felt. Lined in violet sating with leather inner headband. Stamped in gold on inside crown: "Kangol / de Luxe / An Anglobasque Product / Made in Cumberland England / 100% Pure Wool"
Beret of ivory wool felt with gold crown amulet embellished with rhinestones in front. Red grosgrain ribbon inner headband.
Poke bonnet of red Milan straw with navy/dark purple velvet fluting. Two hatpins with round, red chenille heads. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Made in England / Model / Otto Lucas / London W1" Retailer's label sewn to designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas"
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat made of black velvet with satin braid trim. Black net veil. No labels.
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat in muted pink velvet. Crown has narrow 1" down-turned brim, trimmed with velvet flowers and pink ostrich feathers. Netting of same color as trim. One large, clear rhinestone on side of hat. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head.
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of deep rose colored velvet. Double upturned brim with one velvet flower on left front. One large hatpin with head of large and small pearls separated by a band of rhinestones. Coordinating front veil. Lined in gold metallic fabric with red grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Label on inside crown: "Irene / of New York"
Daytime coat of camel brown/tan wool. Street-length or longer, with rounded shawl collar. Double breasted with 6 large circular black silk faille-covered buttons in two vertical rows of 3 each; bound buttonholes. Closure reinforced with two small circular black plastic buttons inside. Two slit. Double welt pockets at sides. Long sleeves with turned-back cuffs showing black silk faille lining. The coat is lined in black silk, with wide bands of black silk faille at cuffs, collar, and sides of opening. Combined retailer's and designer's label at inside back neck: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
Cocktail Ensemble
Cocktail ensemble of heavy black silk faille, consisting of: A) Dress. Long dress, sleeveless, narrow straps, rounded neckline, higher in front. Slightly raised waist. Left side zipper. Very full skirt gathered into waist. Designer's label at inside skirt side seam: "Traina-Norell / New York" B) Jacket. Waist length jacket with rounded collar, short, highly puffed "pumpkin" sleeves which gather into shoulders. Center front opening with four black covered buttons. Flares from waist. Designer's label at inside back collar: "Traina-Norell / New York"
Derby Hat
Hat in derby style of navy felt. Edge of crown trimmed in wide bands of navy, gray and red yarn with very narrow gold thread knots tied to tasseled ends of yarn bands. Unlined with navy grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Maker/retailer's label: "A / Neiman / Marcus / Original"
Dinner Dress
Formal dinner dress of black wool crepe and lavender satin. Bodice of lavender satin with short, puffed sleeves and low rounded neckline in front, higher in back. Sleeves with elastic gathering at openings. Front of bodice with vertical gathers. Back with open slit and lavender satin drawstring closure at neckline. Empire waist. Skirt of black wool crepe, full-length. Center back zipper in skirt begins at join to bodice where bodice is slit. Unlined. Combined designer's/retailer's label sewn in skirt, behind Neiman-Marcus id label: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell".
Ensemble of black wool. The outfit consists of: A) Dress of black wool. Street-length skirt has attached low front leather belt which passes through pleats on left and right. Bodice has narrow collar and deep V-neck with piping that twists at base of V. Bracelet length sleeves with cuffs. Back zipper. No labels. B) Jacket of black wool. Jacket has long sleeves with rolled, notched cuffs, and a notched collar. Center front opening has 5 circular, plastic buttons and covered buttonholes. The padded hips have double welt pockets at left and right. The jacket is lined in black silk. Combined Designer/Retailer label: "Neiman-Marcus dallas / Hattie Carnegie" National Recovery Board / Coat and Suit Industry label "000006"
Evening Dress
Evening dress of champagne peau de soie. Princess style. Sweetheart neckline in front, with small horizontal pleats at front left and right princess seaming at upper part of bust; back neckline is low and rounded. 1-1/2 inch wide shoulder straps that split in front to form an inverted Y, with horizontal band of same fabric at dividing point. Natural waist. Skirt is below knee length, at at hips has three almost horizontal bias folds which extend to from hip center back and join to form bow; lower sash ends of the bow attach to skirt to form "bustle drape", giving added fullness. Attached net petticoat gathered to taffeta yoke; back zipper. Retailer's label at left side seam: "Neiman-Marcus"
Evening Gown
Evening gown of bright brown satin and black velvet. Form fitted bodice of brown satin narrows at waist and dips to a center front seam, where fabric is gathered and drapes down to full-length skirt; black velvet skirt surrounds CF fabric and creates a fullness at hips. Handwritten cloth tape label in skirt: "Charles James 47" Accompanied by a brassier, not shown in photo. Designer's Label: "This is an original / Madame Adrienne / 35 other pat. pend. / pat. 3072879"
Hat of gray felt. The hat is styled as a man's fedora. The crown is of gray felt, canted backwards, with flattened top which is sunken-in. Brim slants down in front and turns up in back, and is quilted with concentric stitching. Remains of threads and holes indicate hat originally had some form of band around the base of the crown. Hat is unlined, with inner hatband of steel blue gray grosgrain ribbon inside base of crown. Affixed to inner hatband is black elasticized cord to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Valerie / Hat / Paris - New York", with size label sewn to edge of maker's label: "22 1/2"
Fedora Hat
Fedora style hat of gray felt. The crown is of gray felt, canted backwards, with flattened top which is sunken-in. Brim slants down in front and turns up in back, and is quilted with concentric stitching. Remains of threads and holes indicate hat originally had some form of band around the base of the crown. Unlined, with inner hatband of steel blue gray grosgrain ribbon inside base of crown. Affixed to inner hatband is black elasticized cord to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Valerie / Hat / Paris - New York" Size label sewn to edge of maker's label: "22 1/2"
Hat of tan felt. Trimmed with net and brown and tan ostrich feathers held by braid and knotted ends of same felt. Short brim at front folds up in back. Inner headband of brown grosgrain ribbon. Hatpin with matching grosgrain head. Unlined.
Hat of burgundy red velvet. Sailor-style hat has 2 1/2" high crown of burgundy velvet, with narrow, 1 1/2" flat brim of same. The side of the crown is wrapped in magenta colored ostrich feathers, which cover the sides of the crown and the brim. At front of hat is half-veil of maroon mesh accented with chenille dots. Inside of crown lined with green floral-pattern lace, with dark maroon velvet around sides of crown, and under brim. Around inside base of crown is an inner headband of dark red maroon grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Chanda". Accompanied by a short hatpin mounted with large simulated pearl at head.
Hat of gray felt. Styled similarly to a fedora, the hat has a high cylindrical crown with the top of the crown sunken in slightly. Around the base of the crown is a band of dark blue/gray grosgrain ribbon, with a bow at side. The medium-width brim slants down slightly at front, and turns up slightly at back. Hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of dark blue/gray grosgrain ribbon at inside base of crown. Manufacturer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Norma's / Creations / Dallas".
Hat of navy blue straw. The cylindrical crown is flattened at top. Around the sides of the crown are wide band of grosgrain ribbon, almost as wide as the side of the crown. The ribbon is embellished with maroon red satin "dots", affixed to the ribbon. At the side, towards the back, the ribbon has two short trailing ends extending outwards. The brim is very narrow, of the same straw as the crown. The hat is lined with dark blue mesh, and has an inner hatband of dark blue grosgrain ribbon around the inside base of the crown. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: " Mr. D' " The hat is accompanied by one short hatpin with a faux tear-drop shaped pearl head.
Hat of black felt with pillbox crown. Wide brim ends at back of crown and folds up into pointed ends. Veil of net on top of brim. Black grosgrain ribbon bow on back of crown. Designer's label on inner hatband: "Valerie / Modes / New York" Union label partly behind designer's label: "782234"
Open crown hat with olive green straw encircling front visor and headband. Ochre velvet draped over visor decorated with small white, bell-shaped flowers. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Kenneth Hopkins Original"
Cloche hat of gray felt with upturned front brim. Pewter/gray glass beads on wire trim encircle crown with perpendicular lines off left and right down brim. Label in inside hatband: "Regalle"
Gat of red velvet with high crown. Slightly bowed in front with black felt crown. Four looped strands of tiny jet black beads and three straight strands at left, right and center ending in arrow point-shaped beads looped slightly left of center in front. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas"
Bandeau of autumn haze mink. Headband has brown grosgrain lining.
Pair of black suede pumps. Shoes have peep-toe design and are embellished across the vamp with an asymmetrical design in black ribbon and side 1/2 bow on outer side. 2 1/2" high continental set-in heels covered in black suede. Leather soles, grey leather lining. Printed grey cloth lining with logo "Lastep". Stamped inside heel of both shoes: "D13258 7 1/2A AAA / 6/A". Stamped on sole of each shoe: "The United States Shoe Co. / Reg U.S. Pat. Off. / Red Cross / Shoe" Stamped inside right shoe: "Red Cross Shoes" and "This product has no connection whatever / with the American National Red Cross". Use of the "Red Cross Shoe" brand was suspended during World War II when the American Red Cross objected. It was re-instated in 1948 on the condition they company publicly disclaimed all connection with the ARC. These shoes have the disclaimer stamped in the right shoe.
Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of chocolate wool with velvet cuffs. A) Fitted jacket of chocolate wool in woven, checked pattern. Single breasted with 5 self covered buttons and bound buttonholes. Notched collar of brown velvet with self fabric lapels. Long sleeved with turn-up cuff of brown velvet and two small self covered buttons and bound buttonholes on each sleeve. Lined in brown taffeta. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell B) Skirt of chocolate wool in woven, checked pattern. Wide, flared A-line with 10 panel construction. 1 1/2" waistband with center back lapped zipper and hook & eye closure at waistband. Lined in brown taffeta.
Suit - Jacket and Skirt
Suit (jacket and skirt) of dark brown wool consisting of: Jacket. Single breasted with notched lapel. The center front opening is slightly angled from top left to lower right and has three circular, dark brown, plastic buttons and tailored buttonholes. Long, set-in sleeves have three nonfunctional, smaller, matching buttons with tailored buttonholes at hem. Torso tapers to fitted, natural waist and flares to hips. Vertical, double welt, very shallow side pockets. Lapel, center front opening and hem of sleeves trimmed in thin, black piping. Princess seaming. Lightly padded shoulders. Lined in black silk jacquard with repeated "Jean Dessés" pattern. Skirt. Street length; slightly A-lined. Designed to appear as a wrapped skirt with diagonal opening from left hip to right side hem with five nonfunctional buttons matching jacket, and tailored buttonholes. At center front, from knee height to left side hem, is simulated opening backed by same fabric. Opening has black piping matching jacket. Left side zipper with two hook & eyes on narrow waistband. Lined in black silk, with exception of front panel.
Calotte Hat
Calotte style of off white felt with two bands that over-cross twice. Narrow upturned brim. Crown is covered in brown net which goes under hat bands to become veil in front. Hatpins with triangular heads of matching felt attach veil to hat. Spray of brown coque feathers as trim on right. Red grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Hatpin with white pearl head attached to designer's label on inside hatband. Unlined. Stamp on inside crown illegible. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Chandra"
Calotte Hat
Calotte hat embellished with black jet beads and sequins. Two double-looped jet bows in back. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Edna Earle / Original"