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UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Texas Fashion Collection
- Ensemble - Jacket and Slacks
Daytime, travel ensemble in heather oatmeal wool jersey knit.
a) Blazer. Single breasted with 7 self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes. Long, set-in sleeves; Peter Pan collar. Two small patch pockets on sides at breast and two larger patch pockets on hips. Lined in beige silk.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Norman Norell / New York"
Care label below designer's label: "Care Instructions / Professionally / Dry Clean Only"
Retailer's label at inside right hem: "Lou Lattimore / Dallas"
b) Slacks. Full length; wide cut. Narrow waistband. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Unlined.
c) Belt of self. 1-1/2" wide. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc499024/
- Evening Dress
Pale blue evening dress with bugle beads at cuffs and hem. Full-length, long sleeves. Wide band of silvered bugle beads running horizontally at hem, smaller bands at cuffs. Attached tie/collar. Center back zipper.
Designer's label: "Norman Norell / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402494/
- Evening Dress
Evening dress of black chiffon with silver and gold glittered decoration. Silver glitter in rectangular pattern overlapping roses in gold glitter. Applied in dots that appear to be glued to the chiffon. Full length with long sleeves having 3/4" black satin cuffs secured with 2 covered snaps. Keyhole neckline which extends to center front opening to hem; edges of neckline and opening trimmed in 3/4" black satin. Opening is secured with eleven self covered buttons with chain-stitched loops and reinforced with hook & eye at top and at natural waist; only first five buttons are functional. At natural waist is a 2-1/4" black satin ribbon belt that forms a bow at the center front opening and secured with hook & eye and snap behind the bow. Sleeves are lined with extra layer of black chiffon, and body of dress is lined in silk polyester(?).
Designer's label at top center back: "Ferdinando Sarmi"
Care label beneath designer's label: "Dry Clean Only" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501336/
- Evening Ensemble
A) Evening dress of black wool jersey knit. Below knee length. Long, set-in sleeves with 5 functioning, circular rhinestone buttons with bound buttonholes. Collarless, center front opening with 12 matching rhinestone buttons and bound buttonholes. Unlined.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Norman Norell / New York"
B) Scarf of black silk satin. Width varies from 5-1/2" at center to 9-1/2" at open ends.
C) Belt of black silk satin. 3" wide with self covered rectangular buckle. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461821/
Hat of woven pink straw. In the "Flower-pot" style, the hat has a tall, cylindrical crown, flattened at top. At base of crown is a wide band pleated pink chiffon which has a cross-over in back and bow in front. At front are affixed artificial pink chiffon-like roses with green leaves and stems. The brim of the hat curves down and curls under at edge, but is covered by layers of matching pink chiffon. The hat is unlined, with inner pink grosgrain ribbon hatband. Accompanied by one plain hat pin.
Label sewn to inner ribbon band: "Miss / Eileen". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277057/
Hat of red straw. High, rounded crown somewhat like a cloche, surmounted by a ball of same red straw. Roughly oval brim, turning up towards edge, higher in front than back. Brim and base of crown edged with thin band of red grosgrain(?) ribbon. Unlined. Inner hatband of red grosgrain ribbon.
Designer's label inside at inner hatband: "Oleg Cassini"
Union Label inside. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277097/
Picture hat of dark pink/red Milan straw with wide brim. Pillbox crown trimmed with red and white polka dot organdy hatband which forms a bow on the right. Straw brim folds under and is lined in same polka dot organdy as hatband. Two hatpins with cloth covered heads in matching polka dot material.
Designer's label on inside hatband: "Sally Victor / 18 East 53rd St." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277092/
Hat of black felt. Modified breton style with high, domed crown and asymmetrical, cupped 3" rolled brim. Hatband of 1 1/2" wide black grosgrain ribbon with flat 4" long tail. Unlined with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband.
Stamp on inside crown: "100% Wool / Ritz / Heny Pollak Inc. / New York"
Size tag on inside headband: "22 1/2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286934/
Hat of tan/light brown fur felt. Styled somewhat as a toque, the high, domed crown is plain, but brushed to a sleek finish. The hat is unlined, with a pink grosgrain ribbon inner hatband.
Designer's label: "Frank Olive / New York"
Stamped inside crown: "Helios / HB / Body Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286908/
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286794/
Pillbox style hat of tan fur felt. High crown with 2 small black buttons pinching the fabric throughout. Eight small black buttons form a V with black and red satin tubing as trim on edge. Inner headband of black grosgrain ribbon.
Maker's label on inside headband: "Helen Brounet / California" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286856/
Hat of dark gray felt covered with black velvet. The cylindrical crown has a flattened top, and is encircled near top of crown by a turquoise grosgrain ribbon which crosses at back, with trailing ribbons. At front right of ribbon is applied rhinestone set triangular brooch with band of same ribbon. The narrow brim curls up at outer edge. The whole is overlaid with black plastic net. Hat is unlined, with inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Designer's label inside: "Mr. Rickie / Original"
Stamped inside crown: "'Jewel' / Body made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283686/
Hat of black felt. The low, domed crown is encircled by a band of black net veilling, gathered at front to form a pouf, and with a narrow band of black ribbons, tied at back with a bow. The narrow brim curves up slightly at back. The hat is unlined, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband.
Brand(?) label: "Originals / Fifth Avenue / New York"
Label of felt maker: "Bodies by / Lee" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305406/
Hat of artificial flowers. The under-structure, styled as a modified derby, is of openwork mesh, covered with small artificial flowers in white, pink, and green. The domed crown is encircled at the base by a wide yellow satin ribbon, tied in a bow at back. The brim curves upwards to edge, and is bound in green fabric at edge. Unlined, with an inner green grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Designer's label: "Sally Victor / Sally V"
With Union label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305331/
Hat of black felt. The domed crown is encircled at base by a 1" wide ribon of the same felt, forming a bow at front with trailing end. The shaped brim is turned up at sides and back to a height of 3"; in front the turn-up angles downwards and becomes a short, flat section in front. The crown of the hat is lined in a black mesh, and has an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Designer's label: "Emme Inc. / New York"
Retailer's label: "Amen Wardy / El Paso * Texas"
Illegible mark of felt maker inside crown. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286922/
Hat of natural colored finely woven straw with narrow brim that curves up in front. Domed crown trimmed with olive colored tubing with red, yellow and white velvet flowers. Unlined with pale yellow grosgrain ribbon inner headband.
Retailer's label: "Made to Order Hat / Bergdorf / Goodman / Fifth Ave. at 58th St." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286885/
Hat of black velvet. Toque style crown of black lace covered with flat strips of black velvet ribbon on sides. Edge of brim covered in black velvet. Unlined.
Retailer's label on inside crown: " Sakowitz / Houston" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286877/
Hat of white angora fur felt. Domed crown encircled at base by a double band of silver braid/rope, and with 3 rhinestone set floral (butterfly?) forms set at front and sides. Medium-width brim curving downwards. The hat is unlined, with inner off-white grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Designer's label inside: "Sally Victor / 18 East 53rd St." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402561/
Hat of navy straw. Domed crown and wide, floppy brim trimmed with white topstitching. Two large white silk flowers, leaves and stems as trim on crown. Hatpin with black, oval head. Unlined with navy grosgrain ribbon inner headband.
Retailer' label on inside crown: "Neiman-Marcus / Made to Order"
Tag on inside headband: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286839/
Hat of maroon/rust red wool felt. High, domed crown with some creasing from front to back, encircled at base by wide band of matching maroon/rust red grosgrain ribbon with flat bow at right side. Unlined, with inner pink grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Designers label at inner hatband: Frank's Girl / Designed / By / Frank Olive / New York
Retailer's label at inside hatband: "Neiman-Marcus"
Maker's stamp inside felt body: "100% Wool / 'Excello' / Made in U.S.A. / Geo. W. Bollman & Co. Inc." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501287/
Hatlet of white silk. Split top crown forms two petals to each side. Top, center of crown has one big white silk gardenia(?)flower with two green leaves on either side. Three smaller leaves at center back. White veil drapes from crown around sides and front. Pink fabric covers intricate inner frame. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305373/
Pair of jeans. Commercially manufactured Levi Strauss & Co. denim blue jeans which have been bleached to white, then disassembled and reassembled with embellishments of multi-color crewel embroidered fabric and glass beads. Jeans have two front pockets and two back pockets, front zipper fly and button at waistband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30328/
- Jump Suit
Jumpsuit of royal blue wool knit. Double-breasted with 14 large, circular white buttons and bound buttonholes. Long sleeves. Peter Pan style collar and rolled 3" cuffs of white pique cotton. Matching tie belt, 1" wide. Unlined.
Combined designer/retailer label at right side seam: "Norman Norell for Bonwit Teller" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc499062/
- Lounging Pajamas
Lounging pajamas outfit of mint green velvet consisting of:
A) Blouse with rounded neckline with center front "keyhole" slit which fastens at neckline with gold braid cord. Long sleeves with gathered, elastic cuffs. Neckline and lower hem edged with green and gold braid, with side slits at sides at hem forming rounded corners.
Designer's label: "Oscar de la Renta / At Home"
Size label: "6"
B) Pants of matching fabric, full-length, with wide legs and slightly flaring cuffs.
C) Tie belt of braided green and gold cord. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501380/
- Man's Vest
Vest of blue, red and white leather suede. The blue body of the vest has star-shaped cut-outs, revealing the white lining. Floor-length red fringe hangs from the body of the vest.
Label at center back neckline: "Great Northern / Leather & Tea Co. / 100% Leather & Suede / 113 Elizabeth St. New York City"
Inside back signed: "Roy A. Schueler" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461792/
- Mini Dress
Sheath-style mini dress of pink linen with all-over eyelash fringe. The linen-weave garment is sleeveless, with rounded neckline. It is printed with an elongated honey-comb pattern in shades of pink and white with woven-in fringe throughout. At each shoulder is three circular pink cloth covered buttons. The honeycomb pattern starts out light pink, and darkens towards the hem of the dress. Lower hem is dagged, following the line of the pattern. Lined at hem and upper part in pink.
Label in center back inside: "Remas / of Scottsdale" 96 cm. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30138/
Mini-dress of sheer synthetic brocade with matte floral print and gold Lurex thread. Styled as a mostly unfitted chemise or sack dress, it has a rounded neckline, long sleeves that gather slightly into the 1" band cuffs, which have bows of self fabric. French darts at bust. Center back zipper with hook-and-eye at top. Pink synthetic(?) lining.
Designer's label at inside back near zipper: "A.F. Boutique / Anne Fogarty" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501376/
Pair of off-white nylon mitts. The elbow-length fingerless gloves have a loop for the thumb, and are embellished along the finger opening with a trim of openwork daisy heads.
Stamped: "Nylasuede / by Hansen / 6 1/2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86995/
Pantsuit ensemble of light tan fine wool.
A) Jacket. Long sleeved, hip-length jacket with Peter Pan collar. Center front opening with 7 flat, circular self-covered buttons. Four patch pockets, two on upper left and right breast, two at left and right hips.
Designer's label: "Norman Norell / New York
Retailer's label: "Lou Lattimore / Dallas"
Care label: "Care Instructions / Professionally / Dry Clean Only"
B) Slacks. Full-length, center back zipper with hook and eye at waistband.
No labels in slacks.
C) Belt. Long, rectangular tie belt of same fabric. Originally attached to jacket at sides by two short cords at each side.
No labels on belt. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461775/
- Picture Hat
Picture hat of muted orange/red straw. The low crown is sunken at edges and domed at center, and is encircled by a wide, gathered band of matching chiffon. The wide, somewhat floppy brim curves downwards and rolls under at edge. The hat is unlined, with a matching grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. It is accompanied by a single hatpin with a matching bead head.
Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286864/
- Pillbox Hat
Hat of brown velvet. Pillbox hat with cylindrical crown of brown velvet, flat at top. Lower edge scalloped, edged with brown beads. The whole is overlaid with fine brown veiling. Lined in black mesh and edged with brown grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Affixed to hatband are two plastic combs, one on either side, to secure hat to wearer's head.
Designer's label inside crown: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38073/
- Pillbox Hat
Hat with pillbox style crown. Crown of green netting is covered with fuchsia and orange velvet flowers. Inner headband of green grosgrain ribbon.
Designer's label: "John Andrew / San Francisco" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286798/
- Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of pink satin. Low circular crown covered in a deep pink satin. Flat top is slightly sunken, creating a rolled upper edge effect. Lined with a white machine lace, with wide inner white grosgrain ribbon hatband. Retailer's label inside: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402547/
- Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of yellow organdy roses. The low, domed, cylindrical hat is constructed on a base of stiffened mesh, the exterior covered with large yellow organdy roses. The hat is lined with yellow lace, with two small brown plastic combs to help secure to wearer's head.
Label inside: "Petite / Modes" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402557/
- Pillbox Hat
Pillbox style hat of black satin. Edge of crown wrapped in folds of same fabric. Inner headband of black grosgrain ribbon.
Retailer's label on inside headband: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286797/
Pair of heeled pumps of faux leopard fur. The shoes are designed with gently squared toes. Across vamp is wide leather band covered with same faux fur. The heel is covered with same fur, and tapers to base.
Designer's label: "herbert levine"
Retailer's label: "Amen Wardly / El Paso Texas"
Written inside: "7 1/2 M / 35254" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277004/
Pair of woman's pumps in champagne satin. Designed with a square toe, the vamp has an applied plaque of same satin on which are mounted brilliant rhinestones of various sizes in horizontal rows. The low heel is covered in same fabric, and tapers slightly to base.
Designer's label stamped inside left shoe: "Herbert Levine"
Stamped inside right shoe: "Especially for / Ann Wardy"
Handwritten note inside shoe: "7 1/2 B / D2490" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277022/
Pumps of black velvet. The shoes are designed with gently pointed toe and plain uppers. A narrow band of low-pile area outlines the foot opening. The 3 1/8" high spike heel is covered with the same velvet as the upper.
Designer's stamp inside: "Andrew Geller / Exquisite Footwear"
Retailer's label inside: "Neiman-Marcus"
Handwritten inside: "5 1/2 aa / 49199 / S9013a" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87020/
- Sailor Hat
Hat in sailor style of red straw with wide flat brim trimmed with 3 big silk roses and small white and pink flowers. Flat crown trimmed with triangular pulls from straw. Red nose veil that ties in back with narrow red velvet ribbon. Hatpin with spherical pink head. Unlined with red grosgrain inner headband.
Manufacturer's label: "Mrs. Eugene Gray Inc. / Columbus, Ohio Harbor Springs, Mich" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277023/
- Shift Dress
Daytime shift dress of oatmeal wool knit. Short set-in sleeves trimmed in dark brown wool knit. Mandarin style stand up collar of dark brown wool knit. Below knee length with 5-1/2 inch hem extension of matching dark brown wool knit. Center back zipper closure with hook & eye. Two large patch pockets set below hips at sides. Lined in very pale beige/rose silk.
Designer's label on side seam of lining near hem: "Norman Norell / New York"
Retailer's label a back neckline: "Sakowitz / Houston M" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330381/
Pair of women's shoes of beige leather. Designed with slightly rounded toe, the uppers are cut away at sides and heel, leaving a single strap extending from center top of toebox at vamp to side straps which hook to sling-back strap which buckles around heel. The heels taper to base, and are covered in same leather.
Designer's label stamped inside shoe: "Herbert Levine"
Handwritten notation inside strap: "48L58 7 1/2 M" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276992/
- Skirt Suit
Skirt suit ensemble:
A) Blazer jacket of black silk gaberdine. Short waist with notched collar. Double breasted with four 1" mother-of-pearl buttons; closure reinforced with clear plastic button inside jacket. Three-quarter length, set-in sleeves with snap closure at slit. Two false pockets with rectangular flaps. Lined in black silk faille.
B) Skirt of white linen. Knee-length skirt with 1 inch waist band. Slightly A-line. In-seam front panel pockets. Left side zipper closure with two large silver colored hook and eyes. Skirt looks to have been let out at hem. Lined in ivory silk.
Designer's label on inside left seam of lining: "Norman Norell / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330343/
Toque of light brown nutria fur. The high, cylindrical crown is flattened at top, and is lined with yellow faille/grosgrain fabric.
Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286847/
Toque hat of fuchsia pink fur felt; rounded crown with sides extending 1" above top of crown; 4" front sides of crown narrow to 2 1/2" at center back sides. Unlined, with fuchsia pink grosgrain ribbon headband.
Label sewn inside band: "Florence Killey / CLEVELAND"
Label stamped in white on inside top: "MARTELLE / Body made in West Germany" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330540/
- Cocktail Dress
Cocktail dress of ivory four-ply silk and brown wool crepe. Torso and long sleeves are of ivory silk, and the 5" cuffs and 15" skirt panel are of brown wool crepe. Silk tie at neckline hangs down front and back. Center back opening with 5 self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes supplemented with snaps at neckline. Top portion lined in ivory silk, bottom portion lined in brown silk. Designer's label in skirt: "Norman Norell / New York". Retailer's(?) label sewn into lining, partly obscured: "Saks Fifth Avenue / Helas / Greenhill / 4-19-66 5322". Union label in skirt near designer's label. This garment shows evidence at hemline of having been shortened. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461816/
- Aviator's Cap Hat
Hat in the form of a black leather Aviator's Cap. The domed ovoid crown is made in six triangular sections, and has straps which extend down and buckle under the chin with two oval gilt metal links. The cap is lined with black satin, and has an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Designer's label: "Adolfo / New York Paris"
Retailer's Label: "Amen Wardy / El Paso Texas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286843/
- Day Dress
Day dress of blue and white linen blend(?). Semi-fitted empire bodice with narrow standing collar and short sleeves. Center back zipper closure from neck to hip line with hook&eye at neck. Contrasting white waistband giving the impression of a wide belt. Four blue insets simulate belt loops. Center front lapped detail on "belt" with two bound buttonholes and nonfunctional, round, blue shank buttons. Above-the-knee flared skirt with side seam pockets low on hips. Piece lined in blue and white cotton.
Designer's label stitched off-center back, below collar: "Marie McCarthy / for / Larry Aldrich"
Retailer's label at bottom left side seam of dress: "Bloomingdale's / Green Room"
Union label and size tags on center back inside seam. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501349/
Hat of dull yellow-green woven straw. The hat is constructed of concentric bands of woven straw mounted on a shaped, stiffed nylon net. The crown is conical in shape, flattened at top, and flaring at the base to merge into the floppy brim. Mounted at front of hat are two large artificial pink silk flowers. Unlined, the crown has an inner double-layer green grosgrain ribbon hatband, and is designed so that the hat "rests" on the head.
Designer's label inside: "Sally Victor / New York"
Retailer's label inside: "Titche's / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc499029/
- D'Orsay Pumps
Pair of D'Orsay pumps of black faille. Large fabric rosette applied at vamp, set with rhinestones. Heel tapers to base.
Retailer's label stamped inside: "Chandler's" and "French Room / Originals"
Partly illegible marks inside: ".... 4 1/2 B 2984 / 92774 - 213W" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87001/
Pair of pumps of beige leather. The shoes are designed with a square toe and plain uppers with a large bow at vamp formed of a twist of the same leather. Heels covered in same leather, tapering to base.
Designer label: "Herbert Levine"
Retailer Label: "Amen Wardy / El Paso Texas"
Handwritten inside: "7 1/2M / 30030" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc115010/