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UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Texas Fashion Collection
Dress of black silk chiffon with large, painterly, abstract designs of red, gold, light gray, blue, and purple in a swirly teardrop shape throughout over black silk. Three-quarter length sleeves with flutter ruffle along top seam. Round scoop neckline. Sheath-like silhouette; ankle-length. Center-back, self-chiffon covered button closure.
Designer's label at back neckline: "Hanae Mori / Boutique"
Care / size tag attached to base of designer's label.
Labels suggest made for USA market.
Accompanied by a barrette of black grosgrain ribbon carnation with tiny ribbon accents of red, turquoise, and purple satin that was worn with dress. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283708/
Dress of royal blue polyester chiffon with gold brocaded chrysanthemum flower motifs. Straight silhouette. High round neckline. Long sleeves. Dress is constructed with under dress of purple rayon with chiffon overdress. Full length, asymmetrical hemline with circular ruffle of chiffon at hem of underdress. Center back zipper with hook & eye.
Designer's label at right of zipper: "Hanae Mori" with handwritten number "14552" on fold of label.
Retailer's label at right of zipper: "Neiman-Marcus" with handwritten number "14552"
Size "10", union label and content/care tags at left side seam near hem. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc795334/
Dress of pleated polyester chiffon printed in a pink, magenta, and grey chrysanthemum flower motif on a background of various shades of green leaves. Thin straps of braided green silk; neckline piped in green silk matching shoulder straps. Dress constructed of two tiers with lower tier attached to under dress of tan rayon. Center back zipper with hook & eye on tan rayon lining with three self-covered snaps on chiffon outer layer.
Designer's label to left of zipper: "(Japanese characters) / Hanae Mori"
Retailer's label above designer label: "Neiman-Marcus"
Content/care above retailer label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc795264/
- Ensemble - Blouse, Pants, and Sash
Ensemble of magenta silk chiffon consisting of:
(A) Tunic style top of printed chiffon with bodice in lotus flower motif. Low crossover, V-shaped front with closure of two covered snaps. Long flowing, bell-shaped sleeves and flared skirt. Skirt and sleeve hems have monofilament inserted to give body and shape. Bodice lined in light blue rayon chiffon.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "(Japanese characters) / Hanea Mori "
Retailer's label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus"
Content/care label at center back neckline.
Size "14" tag attached to base of designer label.
(B) Pants of magenta silk chiffon. Wide legs of three layers of chiffon. Center back opening of five covered snaps with hook & bar and additional covered snap on 1" waistband.
Size "14" tag at center back.
(C) Sash of matching lotus flower motif printed chiffon. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701407/
- Ensemble - Jacket, Skirt and Blouse
Suit in hot pink nubbly wool knit. The ensemble consists of three pieces: a jacket, matching skirt, and black silk shell.
The jacket is hip-length, with a shawl collar which has an attached black silk tie. The center front closure has 6 circular brass buttons with central embossed lion's heads and black outer edges. There are four faux flap pockets at front, two on each side of opening, each with button matching those of the closure. The long sleeves have simulated closure, with a line of three buttons matching others on each sleeve. The pocket flaps, cuffs, collar, center front, and hem are all edged in black. Designer's label sewn inside jacket at collar: "Adolfo / New York", with retailer's label sewn in just below: "Neiman-Marcus". The matching skirt is below-knee length, of the same pink wool knit, with pleating beginning 7" below waistband and extending to hem. Skirt has designer's label sewn inside at waistband as jacket. The accompanying black silk blouse is sleeveless, with rounded neckline. Single black silk -covered button closure at back of neck. Shell has designer's label sewn inside at left of closure as jacket. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30285/
- Evening Coat
Evening coat of silk shantung in a wide, horizontal stripes in coral red, blues, greens, gold and purple. Long, wide raglan sleeves; street length. Side slit pockets. Collar less with revers that expose the black silk lining. Center front opening with no closures. Lined in black silk with padded shoulders.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Galanos"
Retailer's label at right side seam near underarm: "Neiman-Marcus"
Care label at left side seam near underarm. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc795324/
- Suit - Jacket and Skirt
Suit of black wool consisting of:
Jacket of almost hip-length, with no collar; double breasted, with V neckline and 4 buttons center front, in rows of two. Two flap pockets front; two bust darts; Long sleeves with single button cuffs. Built-in shoulder pads, and fully lined.
Designer's label at inside back neck: "Christian Dior / The Suit / Paris New York"
Care label below Designer's label: "Dry Clean / Made in U.S.A."
Content label at side seam: "100% / Pure Wool"; "Professionally / Dry Clean / Low Moisture / Steam Press"
Skirt. Calf length, with narrow waistband. Knife pleated, with side zipper and button. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501315/
- Suit - Jacket, Skirt, and Blouse
Suit of peach ultra suede and light blue and peach silk.
A) Jacket of ultra suede. Hip length, single breasted center-front opening with 5 circular gold-tone buttons. Notched collar, lower lapels faced in light blue ultra suede, edged to hem in coral ultra suede. Long sleeves gathered at top of shoulder, with rolled cuffs with facing and edging to match lapels. Welt pockets at sides. Attached shoulder pads. Sleeves are lined in peach acetate(?); main body of jacket unlined. Back seam with slit at lower edge.
Designer's label at inside back neck: "Mollie Parnis / Ultrasuede / Brand Fabric"
Size tag at inside left side seam: "Lot 19 / Size 10"
B) Blouse of silk. Collar, yoke, and long sleeves of light blue, torso of blouse in peach. Stand-up collar of self blue ruffle, with matching cuffs on sleeves. Center front opening with hook-and-eye at top, single gold-tone circular button visible at throat, and 6 hidden clear plastic buttons. Sleeves gathered at top of shoulders, and with single gold-tone button at cuff.
Care label at right side seam: "Professional / Dry Clean Only"
Size label: "Lot: / Size 10"
C) Skirt of peach ultra suede. A-line, below-knee length skirt. Side slit pockets. Center back zipper. 1" self waistband, with hook-and-bar on waistband above zipper. Unlined.
Retailer's label at waistband: "Neiman-Marcus"
Various labels at center back seam below zipper:
"Operator 1359 / Style 983 / Size 10"
"Lot: / Size 10"
Care label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501310/
- Trench Coat
Trench coat of brown vinyl. Pointed collar. Knee-length or slightly longer. Long sleeves with translucent, brown plastic button on cuff. Single breasted with closure of nine matching buttons. Two patch pockets at front hips. Diamond motif of stitching and small vinyl diamonds at yoke and pockets. Back yoke of coat lined in dark yellow fabric; balance of coat unlined, showing orange cotton knit backing of vinyl.
Designer label on inside right of opening: "Ginessa / Made in / British Crown Colony of Hong Kong"
Care label to right of designer label.
Size label at left inside seam: "12"
Content label center back neckline: "75% Vinyl / 25% Cotton / Made in British Crown / Colony of Hong Kong"
With matching sash belt of same material. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701425/
Dress of black cotton net embroidered with red, white, tan, brown, green and gold floral designs. Gathered scooped neckline interlaced with narrow, pale green silk grosgrain ribbon and scalloped and embroidered organdy ruffling, which is also used at wrist, waist, hip line and hem. Gathered ankle-length skirt. Left side zipper with hook & eye on lining and snaps on outer net layer. Skirt has additional under layer of black net. Bodice and skirt lined with silk chiffon; black grosgrain ribbon petersham with hook & eye at waist.
Designer's label at center back waist: "Christian Dior / Paris / Made In France / Printemps-Ete 1978" and stamped "0I0052"
Label attached at base of designer's label: "Made In France"
Neiman Marcus size and content label attached at bottom of previous two labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503757/
- Ensemble - Blouse and Skirt
Two-piece ensemble of black satin.
Blouse of wrap style, with surplice neckline squared at across back and front to collar bones, plunging into a V at front, and with long sleeves. Neckline, hem, and sleeves edged in 2" wide band of trapunto quilting work consisting of 6 rows of stitching. Long sleeves have 3" zippers at cuffs. 1-inch wide attached belt ties in back. Unlined.
No labels in bodice.
Matching skirt. Black, below-knee length, with narrow waistband into which skirt is gathered. Left side zipper, with hooks and eyes at waistband. Unlined.
Inside Label, typewritten on cloth tape: " JUPE 43 011020 NEIMAN MARCUS" or possibly "JUPE 43 OTTO 20 NEIMAN MARCUS" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503812/
Pairs of pumps of green reptile patchwork. The shoes are designed with a pointed toe, and uppers made of triangular sections of dyed reptile pieced together. The sections are dyed in various shades of greens and browns. The throat has an extending triangular section which is oriented to point towards the wearer's leg. The low, chunky heels are covered with the same skin, and taper to base.
Designer's label inside: "SusanBennisWarrenEdwards"
Stamped inside: "4514 Zig-Zag 7"
Stamped on sole: "Designed by / Susan / Bennis / Warren / Edwards / Hand Made / In Itayl / 7" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87037/
Coat of lynx fur, pale with brown and grey markings. Thigh-length, with long sleeves and shawl collar. Two side slit pockets. Center front opening with two hooks below collar (lacking loops?). Fully lined in tan silk.
No labels in garment. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc795305/
- Ensemble - Dress and Coat
Dress and coat of peacock feathers. The short, sleeveless dress is entirely covered with peacock breast feathers, accented with a 1" band of blue cording and chenille trim at neckline and with blue cord spaghetti straps. It is fully lined with navy polyester. The long, sleeveless coat is covered with peacock herl / flue feathers. It has a round neckline, and no closure.
These pieces are part of a larger ensemble, consisting of a total of 9 pieces decorated with peacock and/or golden pheasant feathers.
Worn to the Emmy Awards ceremony in Los Angeles, California, April 1976. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30293/
Hat of rust wool felt with rolled, tubular shaped brim. Style sometime referred to as "bumper hat". Unlined with orange grosgrain headband.
Crown stamped: "100% Wool / 'Esccello' / Geo. W. Bollman & Co., Inc"
Designer's label on inside headband: "Frank's Girl / Designed by / Frank Olive / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283719/
- Scarf Hat
Hat formed of a printed scarf. The hat is constructed to look as a scarf that has been tied around the wearer's head, with long trailing ends at back. The under-structure is a domed crown of stiffened black mesh overlaid with the printed scarf, which has a navy blue ground, white stars, and gold American eagles. The hat has an inner pink grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Designer's label: "Frank Olive / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286907/
- Day Dress
Day dress of black, blue, gray and yellow nylon jersey knit. Elbow length, set-in sleeves are black with banded cuffs in gold, yellow, blue and black pattern. Rounded, banded neckline. Knee length. Natural waistline is slightly gathered at sides and back. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Unlined.
Signed "Paganne" in pattern of dress.
Designer's label at neckline to left of zipper: "Paganne Ltd. / by Gene Berk -8-"
Care label at neckline to right of zipper. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503787/
Dress of black shadow-stripe silk chiffon with red abstract print. Street length, with bound, rounded neckline. Long sleeves with snap at hem. Elastic in casing at waist. Six 3/8" covered buttons with self loops down bodice center back. Overskirt gathers from waistline, undulating from left front and back, 10 inches in length, graduates to 20 inches on right side. Slit 9" up from left side underskirt hem. Padded shoulders. Lined in black synthetic.
Designer's label at left of center back opening: "Hanae Mori"
Retailer's label at right of center back opening: "Neiman-Marcus"
Care/content and size "8" tags at right side seam.
With double-faced red satin belt; 2 inches x 56 inches long. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701369/
- Ensemble - Blouse and Skirt
Ensemble in black silk crepe with diagonal "scratch print" in green, consisting of:
Tunic style top. Below-hip length, with asymmetrical neckline. Long flaring dolman bottom sleeves. Cut on bias. Unlined. Belted with tie sash of same fabric, with pointed ends and lingerie hem.
Skirt. Midi length, with elastic waist and zipper closing on diagonal at left side toward back. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501368/
- Ensemble - Blouse and Slacks
A) Blouse of multicolored polyester in a geometric design. "Midriff scarf blouse" style, with wide elastic neckline, cropped waist, and wide band of elastic smocking to create waistband below bust. Lower edge with ruffle effect. Sleeves are triangular in shape, forming oversized wings that flow as wearer moves.
B) Slacks of off-white cotton or cotton/polyester blend. Full-length, with wide, slightly flaring legs and pronounced cuffs. Wide waistband, with cf zipper and two snaps at waistband. Wide belt-loops. Unlined.
Handwritten inside: "M B Walker F" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501379/
- Ensemble - Vest and Skirt
Ensemble of mauve suede and feather-work, consisting of:
Vest of mauve suede with elaborate feather-work at each side of center-front opening. Feathers include taupe, brown and silver ostrich plumes, pheasant and small dark brown and white feathers; the designs accented at bottom with leaf appliques in violet fabric and in gold metallic reptile. The vest has a round neckline; the slightly angled center front opening having four hook & eye closures. Slightly curved hemline. Unlined. Total length: 19 3/8" (49.2cm).
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Becky Bisoulis"
Retailer label at base of designer label: "Marie Leavell" and size "M" tag at base of retailer label.
Skirt of mauve suede. Medium length. Straight, four panel skirt gathered to elasticized waistband. Deep, 11 7/8" (29.5cm) slit at lower left seam. Closure by invisible zipper at center back with large hook & bar on waistband. Lined with lilac silk crepe de chine. Total length: 27" (68.6cm).
Designer's label at right side seam: "Becky Bisoulis" with size "8" tag attached to base of label.
Retailer's label to right of designer label: "Marie Leavell" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701389/
- Evening Dress and Scarf
Evening dress of red, blue and gray polyester silk chiffon with scarf.
Dress is full-length and has draped bodice with moderate deep V-neckline. Center front lapped opening with three hook & eyes and two snaps as the closure. Set-in modified kimono sleeves gather at the top of the arm eye and at 1-1/2" cuffs. The cuffs fasten with a single loop and covered shank button. The sleeves are open/slit along the outer edge and under arm. Natural waist seam with full-length, semi-full red polyester silk underskirt and printed chiffon over skirt. The underskirt is slit at the side seams. The bodice is fully lined in red polyester silk. Elasticized waistline. Shoulder pads.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Hanae Mori"
Fiber content/care tag, union label and style/size tag at right side seam of lining.
With matching scarf/sash of matching printed chiffon. Long narrow rectangular shape with rolled hem. When worn as a scarf it would hang to mid-calf; as a sash it would be hem length. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701528/
Hat of black wool felt with attached scarf of black jersey wool. Wide, slightly asymmetrical brim. Domed crown with narrow headband of same which crosses in back and trails to edge of brim. Unlined with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband.
Stamp on inside crown: "Made in Poland / Tally-Ho / Pollak Imp Ex Corp / 100% Wool"
Retailer's label on inside headband: "Saks Fifth Avenue" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286826/
Box style jacket of brown suede. Wide pointed collar and lapels. Long sleeves. Asymmetrical closing at center front with large appliqued circle patch pocket at right front and 2 large metallic silver buttons with bound buttonholes. Closure reinforced with two large snaps on waistband. Four 12" ties at waist band with1-1/2" diameter suede circles at ends. Lined in brown synthetic fabric.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York / Made in France"
Retailer's label at right front opening: "Neiman-Marcus / Trophy Room"
Label at left shoulder: "Made in France (rest illegible)" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503791/
Purse of brown and tan woven burlap-type fabric and brown leather. Rectangular, with rounded bottom and edges. Sides of fabric, end panels of leather, with leather handles and trim with brass hardware. Closure is a 1" inch leather strap with "door knocker" type fixture with a turn key closure. One zippered pocket interior center creates three distinct compartments.
Designer's stamp on interior zippered pocket: "Etienne Aigner / Hand Made" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330482/
Shift style dress of tan ultra suede. Below knee length. Three-quarter length sleeves with 3" rolled cuffs. Banded collar becomes V-shaped placket neckline. Center back zipper with 3 hook & eyes at neckline. Slit pockets at side seams. Remains of loop on right side seam indicated may have once had a belt. Unlined.
Designer's label on inside left neckline: "Mollie Parnis / a Skinner ultra / suede fabric"
Retailer's label on inside right neckline: "Lou Lattimore / Dallas"
Union label and cleaning instruction tags at zipper.
Style/size tag to right of cleaning instruction tag: "Order 3266 / Style Catello / Size 920 8 / Remarks" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501306/
Dress of yellow nylon and chiffon with floral print in greens, white, and pale orange. Full-length dress consists of layers. Inner yellow nylon(?) sheath, sleeveless, with neckline with slight, shallow rounding. Center back zipper. Outer layer is attached to inner only at neckline and armholes. Full-length, flowing outer layer of yellow chiffon with floral print. Vertical pin tucks at left and right of neckline from shoulders mid-bust. Long, flowing panels from shoulders, not true sleeves, not closed along underside/inside of arm, but extending as over-sized cap sleeves - also described as "open kimono sleeves" or "over-sized flutter sleeves". Center back closure with 12 self covered buttons and loops.
Designer's label at inside back zipper: "Teal Traina / New York"
Care label at side seam near hem: "Professionally / Dry Clean / Only"
Union label at side seam near hem.
Size label at side seam near hem: "10"
Spare cloth-covered button sewn near union/care/size labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701394/
Dress of ivory knit. Knee-length or slightly longer A-line dress, sleeveless, with rounded neckline. Narrow band of navy blue piping around armholes, neck-hole, and in an openwork section at top of right shoulder where piping outlines edges and is made to appear as if it is "laced" between the edges, with large floppy bow at top. Two slit side seam pockets, and two very thin navy blue string belt loops at sides. 6" slit at right side seam from hem upwards. Center back opening with zipper from neckline. Lined in cream.
Designer's label at right inside side seam: "Bill Blass"
Size label near designer's label: "8"
Care label near designer's label: "Professional / Dry Clean / Only"
Union label near designer's label.
With matching string belt of navy blue piping, with small circular covered button at one end and loop at other. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701469/
- Ensemble - Blouse and Skirt
Two piece skirt ensemble of navy blue linen consisting of:
Blouse with round high neckline having asymmetric bodice closure. Curved diagonal top edge extension with four purple plastic buttons and tailored buttonholes at left side and one button with snap at right neckline. Short sleeves with modified box caps (seams rather than tucks). Bodice cut short and full, with slight lower flare. Padded shoulders. Lined in dark blue silk satin. Length: 20 1/2" (52.1 cm). Length:
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Bill Blass"
Union label, cleaning instructions and size "6" tag at left side seam.
Skirt of medium length, straight, two panel style, gathered to narrow fitted waistband. Inseam slit pockets at both sides, with invisible zipper closure behind left pocket and large hook at waistband. Fully lined in same silk fabric as top. No designer label. 23 1/2" (59.7 cm).
Size "6" tag at left side seam. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701477/
- Evening Dress
Evening dress of black silk crepe. Below-knee length; sleeveless, but cut to form a very slight cap sleeve effect just off shoulder. Semi-fitted tunic-like bodice with plunging V-neckline formed by wrap construction, the lapped center front closure with two hook & bar closures at waist. Surplus fabric in front and back gathers into the narrow waistband. Skirt appears tubular, and has scalloped front hem.
Designer's label at center back inside: "Halston"
Size label at back inside waist: "8"
Care label - dry clean only
Union label (1974-1990s style) digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503773/
- Wedding Dress
Wedding dress of white chiffon(?), tulle, and lace. Full-length, full skirt. Empire waist. Long sleeves, with 3" lace cuffs and lace ruffle and two bands of matching lace running length of sleeve. Lace ruffle around shoulder. Square neckline, filled in with lace, which rises to form high standing collar with ruffle. Band of lace at waist and two bands down front. Cathedral train with two tiers of self at lower part of skirt, edged in lace. Lapped center back zipper. Attached slip of ivory synthetic, and very full layer of tulle. Tiers also with under layer of tulle.
Union Label inside skirt.
With matching headpiece/veil. Rigid cylindrical headpiece of stiffened, wired lace, the sides of which extend down in points, from the crown of which spring 3 layers of white tulle, the shortest (shoulder length) and middle (calf-length) layers edged with lace to match dress, the longest (trailing behind) with plain edge. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701512/
- Box Jacket
Box jacket of ivory wool. Bracelet length, raglan sleeves. Convertible collar. Single breasted with three cream colored plastic buttons and tailored buttonholes. Top stitching on seams. Sleeves lined in cream colored silk.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Automne-Hiver 1973 / Christian Dior / Paris / Made in France" and stamped 02766
Retailer's label at center back neckline: "Lou Lattimore / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc499065/
Dress of black double knit. Just below knee-length, with long sleeves, bodice has slight V-neckline formed by slight standing collar, which merges with pair of points at center front formed by tucked pleats. Natural waist, A-line skirt. Center back zipper closure. Bodice lined in black, sleeves and skirt unlined.
No labels in dress.
With black leather belt with silver colored metal buckle.
Stamped on reverse: "12 Do Not / Dry Clean" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc499042/
Clutch handbag of patent leather in small oval shape. Gold tone closure of three rings in bamboo pattern. Tuckable gold herringbone chain; 1/4" strap 30"long. Three interior compartments with black faille lining; 2 inner pocket, 1 with gold faille lining.
Designer's stamp: "M M / Morris Moskowitz"
Original maker's card in small black compartment; side 1: "M M / Morris Moskowitz"; side 2: This / Handbag is Made / Of Man Made / Materials"
22cm L, 16cm H (with closure), 3cm W digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330505/
Dress of multi-colored velvets. The floor-length dress has an empire waist and bell-shaped long sleeves. The upper, bodice, section is made of a sheer, multi-colored fabric woven with bands of gold thread. Over the bodice is applied sections of burnout velvet in various colors, forming bands running up the bodice, over the shoulders, and down the back, another band forming a 1" high collar, and as 2" bands around each wrist. The sections are bordered in gold cording. The lower, skirt, section is of green velvet printed in browns, greens, and gold in an abstract geometric/organic design. Fully lined in green silk(?). Center back zipper from neckline to just above waist. Three hook-and-loop closures on collar.
Designer label sewn alongside zipper at shoulder-blade height at right: "Ronald Amey / New York". Evidence of removed label at inside, center front of dress below neckline. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30306/
- Ensemble - Coat, Blouse, and Skirt
A) Coat of brown and white felted wool. Knee-length or longer, long set-in sleeves. Center front opening with 5 large circular brown plastic buttons with bound buttonholes. Main body of coat of pale brown and white check design, with cuffs, collar, and lower band of coat (about hips to hem) of light brown. Light brown and white check self tie belt. Side slit pockets. Lined in pale taupe.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Norell"
Hand-written label just above designer's label: "Deborah 929"
B) Blouse of cream wool jersey. Long sleeves, high standing collar. Center back zipper closure running almost entire length of garment, from top of collar to about 3" above hem. Hook & eye at top of collar. Collar lined in satin, the rest of the blouse is unlined. Not hemmed.
Hand-written label sewn in at neckline: "Deborah 929"
C) Skirt of brown wool tweed. Mid-length; slight A-line. Narrow, 1-1/2" waistband. Fully lined in brown silk(?). Center back zipper closure with large hook & eye on waistband.
Hand-written label "Deborah 1929".
D) Belt of brown leather with wide square, self-covered buckle. Two inches wide. Belt is attached to skirt with inner bands of leather to which loops from the skirt are sewn.
Stamped on reverse: "26 Norman Norell 3736". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330450/
- Ensemble - Vest, Blouse and Skirts
Ensemble in blue and gold polyester consisting of mix and match component vest, blouses, skirts and belt.
First image shows:
a) Vest: A fitted, hip-length shell of blue and gold check polyester woven in a pattern of yellow/gold squares on a blue ground with thin white threading. It has a deep rounded neckline and nipped waist. The center front opening is secured with three chiffon covered snaps and has two bound button holes and two gold-tone metal buttons. The center front opening and the hem are faced with navy blue polyester embellished with three double rows of gold metallic running stitches. The vest is fully lined in blue silk. Designer's label is located inside center back, below the neckline: "Ronald Amey"; Retailer's label sewn in just above designer's: "Marie Leavell".
b) Blouse: A fitted, hip-length shell of gold polyester with high rounded neckline, standing band collar and full-length set-in sleeves. The sleeves are accented with contrasting, circular ruffle cuffs of blue and gold check polyester, woven so that one side looks yellow/gold squares on a blue ground with thin white threading, and the other side of the ruffles looks like blue squares with thin white threading on a yellow/gold ground. The cuffs have a short placket opening secured with a loop and gold-tone metal button. The center front neckline is accented with a four-tiered ruffled jabot of blue and gold check polyester. The center back zipper closure extends from neck to hip, and is supplemented at the collar with two hook-and-eyes. The collar is faced with gold satin. Designer's label located inside at right side seam, at waist-level: "Ronald Amey / New York".
c) Skirt: A flared, knee-length circular skirt in blue and gold check polyester, woven with blue squares with thin white threading on a yellow/gold ground. The wide waistband has a center back lapped opening secured with two loops and blue fabric covered buttons and a hidden snap. There is also a center back zipper closure extending from waist to hip level. It has side seam slit pockets which are lined in blue silk. The skirt is also fully lined in blue silk. Designer's label located inside right center back, beside the zipper: "Ronald Amey / New York".
The second image shows:
a) Vest, described above.
b) Skirt: A full-length semi-circular skirt in blue and gold check polyester woven to appear as yellow/gold squares on a ground of blue with thin white threading. The wide waistband has a lapped center back opening secured with two loops and clear plastic buttons. There is also a center back zipper closure extending from waist to hip level. The skirt has deep, side seam inverted pleat details. Side seam slit pockets are lined in blue silk. It has a turned, bound hem, and is fully lined in blue silk. Designer's label is located inside right center back beside the zipper: "Ronald Amey / New York".
Not in photo are two other parts to the ensemble, a second blouse and a belt/cummerbund. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30187/
Hat of brown felt. Designed somewhat like a cloche, the domed crown is encircled at the base by a folded-over band of brown grosgrain ribbon tied at side, with a "pouf" of white, green, black and taupe feather. Fairly narrow brim, which is folded over and sewn down at edge, is turned up at front and left, down at right and back. The hat is unlined, with a dark brown grosgrain ribbon inner hatband.
Designer's label: "Don Kline" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87073/
- Pants Ensemble
A) Jacket in box style of gray and cream plaid mohair. Short jacket with long, set-in sleeves and shawl collar. Two patch pockets at breasts. Center front opening with four large circular gray pearl plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Fully lined with gray polyester(?).
Designer's label inside below back collar: "Normal Norell / New York"
Model number tags, handwritten on ribbon, 2 of them, stitched above and below designer's label: "Deborah / 818"
Another sample tag sewn to outside of coat under left arm: "#53 / Debrah"
B) Blouse of cream jersey knit. Long sleeves and high, mock turtleneck. Zipper closure at back, almost full length, with hook-and-eye closure at top. Neck lined in cream silk. Hemline is unfinished.
Sewn inside at collar is hand-written style tag: "Deborah / 818"
Sewn to outside of front, at hem, are style tag, handwritten on ribbon: "Deborah", with small sample of gray knit sewn just below.
C) Pants in harlow style of heather gray wool knit. Full-length; wide legs. Wide,2-2/2" waistband; two slit pockets at side seams. Center back zipper with hook & eye at top of waistband. Lined in gray silk; only attached by single threads at legs.
Sewn inside waistband is cloth tape with hand-written style tag: "Deborah / 818", and attached just above tag is a small sample of the fabric of the blouse. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc498995/
- Day Dress
Day dress of red and purple printed wool knit. Knee-length or slightly below, the dress has a fairly deep rounded neckline and long set-in sleeves. Skirt is gathered at slightly dropped waist. Dress has a center back zipper, and is unlined.
The dress is made of of areas of print. The bodice and upper part of the skirt has a geometric print of purple diamond/parallelagram shapes on red ground. The sleeves and lower part of the skirt have a print of large purple squares on red ground, forming a checkerboard pattern.
Center back lapped zipper. Unlined.
Designer label: "Rudi Gernreich design for / 10 Harmon Knitwear"
Care label: "Dry Clean / Only / 100% wool" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501304/
a) Jacket of beige bias cut wool gaberdine. Double breasted with 6 basket weave covered fabric buttons and bound buttonholes; two interior black plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Waist length, straight sides. Notched collar. Bracelet length sleeves with two functioning, matching buttons and bound buttonholes. Flap pockets at sides. Collar, front opening, sleeve hems and pocket flaps trimmed in black. Lined in black silk.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Norman Norell / New York"
Retailer's label at left front opening: "Rich's / Specialty Shop"
b) Blouse of printed silk twill in orange and yellow squares. Center front opening with 7 gold plastic circular buttons and barred buttonholes. Long sleeves with cuffs having a single matching button. Ends of collar extend to form tie. Unlined.Ensemble.
a) Norell: Jacket of beige bias cut wool gaberdine. Double breasted with 6 basket weave covered fabric buttons and bound buttonholes; two interior black plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Waist length, straight sides. Notched collar. Bracelet length sleeves with two functioning, matching buttons and bound buttonholes. Flap pockets at sides. Collar, front opening, sleeve hems and pocket flaps trimmed in black. Lined in black silk.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Norman Norell / New York"
Retailer's label at left front opening: "Rich's / Specialty Shop"
b) Norell: Blouse of printed silk twill in orange and yellow squares. Center front opening with 7 gold plastic circular buttons and barred buttonholes. Long sleeves with cuffs having a single matching button. Ends of collar extend to form tie. Unlined.
c) Rech: Skirt of black wool. Narrow waistband with center back button and zipper below. Skirt gathers slightly into waistband. Pockets at sides. Fully lined.
Designer's label: "Synonyme / de georges rech paris"; "Made in France"
Fabric: "100% Woc / Laine, Wool, Wolle, Lana, / wol. / [care pictograms]"
2nd fabric/care tag sewn to first, primarily in French. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc499015/
- American Flag Shoes
"American Flag Shoes". The pair of shoes is of white leather and red and blue suede. Styled in a way reminiscent of bowling shoes, the white leather shoes have rounded toes, and red suede overlays at toe box, upwards in a strip from toebox to vamp, and around lower part of heel. Blue suede overlay stripes at side have star-shaped cut-outs to allow white leather to show through. Blue suede edging at top of upper and top of heel. Shoes lace-up at front, 5 holes per side. White shoe laces. Shoes are "flats", with 3/4" high heels.
Brand stamped on inside: "Flings"
Illegible stamp inside. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86959/
Ballgown of pink chiffon. Fitted, boned empire bodice with V-shaped neckline and double spaghetti straps. The bodice is constructed of diagonally pleated pink silk chiffon that crisscrosses over the bust. Center back zipper closure from neck to hip line with a single hook & eye at the neckline supplemented with a hook & loop mid-back and one at the waist seam. Empire waist with full, gathered, circular, ankle-length over skirt of pink crepe chiffon. Semi-fitted underskirt of pink chiffon over pink silk crepe. Wide, boned, white silk/nylon petersham secured down center back with four hook & eyes.
Retailer's label at knee-level of underskirt's center back seam: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501327/
Beret style hat of medium red simulated(?) reptile skin. Pieced crown of eight triangular panels and one half-round panel. Matching covered shank button at center of crown. Stiffened brim with twenty-four rows of horizontal burgundy topstitching. Burgundy grosgrain ribbon headband. Fully lined in gold metallic organza over white organza.
Retailer's label stitched at center of crown lining: "Neiman-Marcus / Made to Order". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283738/
- Bergère Hat
Black silk organza bergère-style hat. The hat has a floppy double-layer brim, the under brim of slightly stiffer black silk organza, overlaid with upper brim of same material. The low, circular crown is encircled at the base by a folded black ribbon, which ties at back and has trailing ends. Inside base of crown is band of black grosgrain ribbon.
Sewn into ribbon is designer label: "Galanos". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402479/
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of bright tan leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, are of tan leather which close along center front with laces, 19 holes high. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Heels covered with matching leather. Sole of tan leather.
Stamped on lining: "I52 5505 K"
Stamped on sole: "Hanan & Son / New York" around circular device "Trade Mark / Hanan". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277112/
- Bowling Shoes
Shoes of red, white, and blue leather. The shoes are designed as flats, with rounded toes. Toebox and tongue of red leather, the sides are of blue leather, and the heel and uppers are edged in wide bands of white. The shoes lace up the instep, with five holes. Believed to be bowling shoes. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87021/
- Breton Hat
Hat in breton style of burnt ochre straw with burnt ochre grosgrain ribbon bow at back on brim. Style can also be referred to as pamela, halo or madeline. Wide upward brim with alternating narrow bands of flat straw. Unlined with ochre grosgrain headband.
Designer's label on inside headband: " An Original / by Dajon / New York"
Size tag to left of designer's label: "22 1/2"
Union label: "565660" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276973/
- Breton Hat
Hat in breton style of gray straw with gray grosgrain ribbon bow edged with gray straw at back of high, upturned brim. Style can also be referred to as pamela, halo or madeline. Unlined with gray grosgrain headband.
Designer's label on inside hatband: "Valerie / Modes" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276978/
Cap of ocher/dark yellow wool. Designed somewhat as a "watch cap", the hat has a high domed crown, which folds up at bottom to extends back upwards almost the entire height of the crown. Spaced top-stitching along upper edge. Unlined.
Designer's label inside: "Adolfo II / New York Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286911/