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UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Texas Fashion Collection
Hat of purple felt. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat consists of a domed crown of purple felt, which extends down on the right side. Tied horizontally around the front of the crown is a wide band of purple taffeta, which passes through slits on the sides of the crown, and emerges towards the back of the right side, tied to become a large "pouf". The hat is lined in purple satin.
Maker's label sewn into lining of hat: "Edna Mye / Dallas".
The hat is accompanied by two short hatpins, the heads covered with purple felt that matches the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39184/
Hat of black velvet styled as a cloche. Domed crown with some seaming and "wrinkles" has very small brim of same fabric, with black velvet bow at back as trim. Lined in cream fabric.
Retailer's label inside crown: "Neiman-Marcus / Made to Order" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39078/
Hat of cotton batik. Styled as a cloche-form turban, the domed crown is constructed of gathered/pleated and wrapped cotton fabric with batik design in beige/brown and blue on white ground. There is no brim. The hat is lined in cream satin, and has an inner hatband of brown grosgrain ribbon along the inside lower edge of the crown.
Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Marcelle Rousseau / Dallas". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39089/
- Ensemble - Dress and Coat
Ensemble of blue heathered wool herringbone knit.
A) Dress of blue heathered wool herringbone knit with bodice of black jersey knit. Short sleeves. 1 1/2" wide mandarin collar. Center back zipper closure with self-covered button and buttonhole on collar at back. Skirt is street length with slight A-line. Unlined skirt.
No labels in dress.
B) Fitted jacket of of blue heathered wool herringbone knit. Long sleeves with cuffs of black Persian lamb. V-neckline trimmed in black Persian lamb. Left side closure with two circular black metal buttons at shoulder and four matching button on left side seam. Lined in black silk crepe.
Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline of jacket: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330349/
Fez-style hat of red felt. The cylindrical crown has a flat top into which the sides are pleated to form a rosette with a central circle from which extends the black cord tassel. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39087/
Hat made of white stitched, quilted cotton. Crownless. Hat constructed of circular piece with tucks at left and right back. Interior wire support covered with matching grosgrain ribbon.
Maker's label: "Henrys / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286927/
Hat of red straw. Styled with aspects of both a cloche and a bonnet, the hat has a domed crown of red straw that is partly encircled at the base by a band of red velvet to which is affixed sprays of artificial flowers (Roses, violets?, and others), cherries, and leaves. The narrow brim turns down around front and sides, and is cut short in back. Around sides and front is green mesh veiling. Hat is unlined, with red grosgrain inner hatband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114792/
Hat of black fur felt. Wide crown covered with net printed with gold flowers and leaves. Wide black velvet ribbon as hatband with bow as trim. Narrow brim.
Stamp on inside crown: "Turin / Genuine Fur Felt / Finest Quality Veld(?) / Made in Italy"
Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Sanger's / Dallas"
Manufacturer's label to right of retailer's label: "Cedar Crest / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114916/
Headband covered with light blue feathers sprinkled with white rhinestones. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114912/
Hat of tan/light brown felt. The hat is somewhat in the style of a cloche, with an irregular "partly delfated" crown. At front is a small section of brim which turns up and extends vertically. At back of hat is a small vertical band of same material, with pointed ends.
Designer's label inside: "Marcelle Rousseau / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39093/
Hat of black felt with wide brim that curls up in front to reveal black fur as trim. Wide, low crown. Black grosgrain ribbons at sides for securing hat to wearer's head. Unlined with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband.
Maker's label on inner headband: "Mathias" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39077/
Hat of black seal fur. Hat is brimless with short, flat crown. Round piece embroidered with black cording and decorated with tassels attached to back of hat. Lined in black fabric with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband.
Designer's label: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York / 78 East 56th Street, N.Y." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39086/
- Skirt Suit
Street suit of gray wool. A daytime or street suit consisting of two pieces. Excellent example of chiaroscuro work.
A) Jacket with squared padded shoulders, no collar, and long sleeves. Opening along the central front, the jacket has a series of 5 hook-and-eye closures. A band that extends from upper left, across opening, and secures through a wide loop just below the right shoulder. The jacket is lined in a peach/mauve silk.
At center back of inside neckline is designer's label: "Adrian / Original"
Retailer's label at right inside seam: "Frost Bros. / San Antonio".
B) Straight skirt was originally just below knee length, but has been lengthened by the addition of material almost matching the lining of the jacket. The skirt has a center back zipper closure. It is currently unlined, but has evidence of the alterations.
No labels, possibly removed. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283717/
- Skirt Suit
Brown gabardine suit.
a) Suit jacket of brown gaberdine. Long sleeves. Single breasted with three circular brown buttons and bound buttonholes. Two faux flap pockets at yoke with matching, smaller buttons and bound buttonholes. Two lower hacking pockets with matching, smaller buttons and bound buttonholes. V-shaped yoke on back. Lined in rust colored silk.
No designer's label.
Retailer's label on inside center back neckline: "Nan Duskin / Philadelphia"
b)Skirt of brown gaberdine. A-lined shape with left side zipper. Kick pleat at center front seam. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286857/
- Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of navy wool with white pinstripes consisting of:
A) Jacket of navy and white pinstripe wool. Double breasted with 4 circular navy blue buttons and covered buttonholes. Notched collar. Long sleeves. Padded shoulders. Horizontal, double welt pockets covered with flap at front left and right. Lined in navy silk.
Designer's label at back neckline: "Hattie Carnegie"
Retailer's label at right inside seam: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas"
Union label at right inside seam.
b) White crepe blouse - not shown in photographs.
c) Skirt of navy wool. Slight A-line. Street length. Unlined.
Label at hem: "Spring 1946 / Hattie Carnegie / Size 10" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283666/
Street suit of gray wool. A daytime or street suit consisting of two pieces. A) Jacket, with squared padded shoulders, no collar, and long sleeves. Opening along the central front, the jacket has a series of 5 hook-and-eye closures, and has a band that extends from upper left, across opening, and secures through a wide loop just below the right shoulder. The jacket is lined in a peach/mauve silk. B) Skirt. The straight skirt was originally just below knee length, but has been lengthened by the addition of material almost matching the lining of the jacket. The skirt has a center back zipper closure. It is currently unlined, but has evidence of the alterations.
Jacket: At center back of inside neckline is designer's label: "Gilbert / Original"; at right inside seam: "Frost Bros / San Antonio".
Skirt: No labels, possibly removed. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30093/
Turban style hat made of folds of black velvet. Lined in black fabric with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head.
Union / size label on inside headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39083/
- Wedding Dress
Wedding gown of ivory rayon satin with sweetheart neckline trimmed in a band of crimped rayon surrounded with pearl beads; fabric is gathered into seams below bust; long Juliet sleeves taper to wrist and have pointed end with satin button closure; pointed waistline with full-length skirt gathered into piped waistline; long train.
Accompanied by a beaded crown or circlet of white beaded flowers, and a veil of fine white tulle with half circle headband at crown. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283759/
- Calotte Hat
Calotte style of off white felt with two bands that over-cross twice. Narrow upturned brim. Crown is covered in brown net which goes under hat bands to become veil in front. Hatpins with triangular heads of matching felt attach veil to hat. Spray of brown coque feathers as trim on right. Red grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Hatpin with white pearl head attached to designer's label on inside hatband. Unlined.
Stamp on inside crown illegible.
Designer's label on inside hatband: "Chandra" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114957/
- Calotte Hat
Calotte hat embellished with black jet beads and sequins. Two double-looped jet bows in back.
Designer's label on inside hatband: "Edna Earle / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39164/
- Cape Coat Ensemble
Two-piece wool tweed cape/coat street ensemble.
a) Cape coat of wool tweed in three shades of plum. Long, single-breasted coat with cape attached at shoulders. Four button closure with alternating bound buttonholes and supplemented with two hook & eyes. Two small double welt pockets on yoke and two larger double welt pockets at waistline. Coat dress portion is tailored at waistline with 3/4 length sleeves. Small turndown collar. Lined in rust brown colored silk faille.
Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Adrian / Original"
b) Straight skirt of matching wool tweed. Unlined. Zipper closure. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283698/
- Cloche Hat
Cloche-style hat of tan straw cloth with pear green velvet ribbon around crown and bows on back. Unlined with pear green grosgrain inner hatband.
Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Millinery Salon / Pfeifers / of Arkansas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114910/
Evening dress of silk crepe for summer. The full-length dress has an A-line skirt of cocoa brown silk crepe and attached belt with pendant strap at front left. The bodice is of cream silk crepe printed with a "trompe l'oeil" ribbon motif below the rounded neckline. Darts at sides. Long, bat-wing style tapered sleeves. Center-back snap closure. Unlined.
Designer's label: "Adrian / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283732/
Brown print silk dress with belt and umbrella.
A) Full-length silk dress printed with brown/white/black over-all pattern of large leaves or pinecones on stems. Wide, shallow neckline. Side zipper. Sleeveless, with sleeves edged with cut-out leaf shapes from the print. Hem with same treatment. A-line skirt. Unlined.
Combined Designer/Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
B) Belt of same fabric, backed in cream leather, with rectangular, fabric-covered buckle.
C) Umbrella. Not pictured. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330483/
Hat of dark brown felt. Wired, rolled brim with one black and one light brown pom pom as trim. Hat has two wired triangular shaped extensions at left and right rim for securing hat to head as well as elastic band.
Designer's label on inside hat band: "Madame Suzy / 5, Rue de la Paix / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114857/
Hat of natural straw in boater style, with tiny brim and very shallow crown. Ochre velvet ribbon as trim around crown; wine colored small flowers on back where ribbon ends in bow; tan netting covers crown.
Designer's label on inside hatband: "Irene / New York"
Retailer's label on inside hatband next to designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114829/
Hat of white straw. The low, domed crown is of finely woven white straw, encircled around the base with a wide band of red velvet ribbon, trimmed with gold braid along top edge. At the back, left side, the ribbon has an extended trailing end. At the front, the gold braid runs down the velvet ribbon in two strands, and crosses the brim to attach to a red velvet heart shape which is embellished with borders of pearls and braid, and a central heart shape made of gold bullion braid. The brim of the hat is of matching straw, curling slightly up at edge. Along the front half of the hat is a fine brown veiling. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of red grosgrain ribbon around the inside lower edge of the crown.
Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Pfeifers / of Arkansas".
A second label is sewn to the side of the retailer's label, with the initials "ADJ" within a rectangle, and the initials "[illeg]SC" below. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39168/
Woman's jacket of purple wool with asymmetrical curved inset at right shoulder. Two bound slit pockets below shoulder. Center front closure with 3 buttons and bound buttonholes. Two slit pockets at hips with an asymmetrical inset over left pocket.
Designer's label: "Adrian / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283694/
- Skirt Suit
Black, rust and brown herringbone wool suit.
a) Coat of black, brown and rust herringbone wool. Single breasted with three circular brown buttons with cut tops. Long, set-in sleeves. Brown fur collar. Yoked shoulders and box pleats at left and right sides and two pleats down the back. Lined in taupe silk satin.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Traina-Norell / New York"
b) Skirt of black, brown and rust herringbone wool. Below knee length; A-line. Left side zipper with 2 hook & eyes on waistband. Lined in rust colored silk. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330375/
- Skirt Suit
Woman's suit of brown wool gabardine.
a) Single breasted, jacket with rectangle motif carried throughout. Convertible collar with 3" points, and one under collar stop 2" from CF as shoulder yoke extends in a 2" wide rectangle parallel to collar edge. Shoulder yoke also extends to self-face the jacket, creating a 1"x 3" rectangle on the underside of the first bound button hold and button.
There are 4 brown buttons with three narrow bound button holes, the second button falling at bottom of rectangle yoke as a inseam button.
Pair of double welt slit pockets below shoulder within a rectangle of opposite grain within the larger rectangle in same grain as welt lips, with rectangle design lines extending over sleeve and top of it slip-stitched to mid-arm scythe.
Two parallel princess seams starting from lower rectangle yoke and front under arm seam run under 8" over-sized pocket flap, narrow to define width of 4" slit pocket. Over-sized bias pocket flap is 8" x 4" with 1 1/2" x 7" vertically center rectangle insert of opposite bias grain both starting from side seam.
Full length set in sleeves with one elbow dart at each under seam. At right sleeve's forearm starts a rectangle welt insert attached til 1 3/4" above cuff, where it floats above sleeve and continues as its own shape to cuff's edge and folds back 1" basted to itself. Lined in copper crepe silk.
Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Adrian / in /British Samek Material"
(b) A-line skirt of matching fabric. One inch folded waistband with triangular tab at lapped left side zipper with snap at tip and 4 sets of hook & eyes on waistband. Two 4" darts on front and two 7" darts on back. Unlined with pinked seam edges. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283765/
- Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of blue/grey wool consisting of:
A) Jacket of navy wool. Jacket has 3/4 sleeves, slash pockets with button trim and welt buttonhole; wide shoulders; nipped-in waist; intricate inset back detail; half belt crisscross in back with button and welt buttonhole. Lined in navy silk.
Designer's label at inside back collar: "Adrian / in / British Samek Material"
(B) Skirt of same fabric. Mid-calf length; small back kick pleat at hem. Zipper closure. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283763/
- Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of black silk faille. The two-piece skirt consists of a jacket and skirt. The jacket is of mid-hip length, with shawl collar, long sleeves, and center-front opening which secures with three circular buttons covered with black faille and embroidered with a stylized "M" or Scorpio symbol. At upper front collarbone area are two applied strips of black faille which form "tabs", and there are similar sewn-in patches of same. Front hip pocket, and another "tab" on other hip. The skirt is street length, with similar patches and tabs.
Designer's label: "Adrian / Original"
Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283761/
- Skirt Suit
Woman's skirt suit of grey-black twill wool with blue and creme yellow pinstripe.
a) Jacket has flat pointed collar with a rectangular insert yoke panel trimmed with four teal, olive and brown mottled plastic buttons. Center front opening with three same buttons and bound button holes. Bodice has 3 faux pocket flaps on right, increasing in size like a step pyramid. Long, one-piece set in sleeves sleeves with two elbow darts on both arms. Right arm has two rectangular, decorative fabric panels on right sleeve of jacket's fabric, with a single button and bound button hole each in the upper, outer corner. Lined in tan silk faille.
Designer's Label at center back collar: "Adrian/ in/British Samek Material"
(b) A-line skirt with CF and CB and side seams. Hemmed in navy blue hem tape, blind hem (slip) stitched on both sides. 3" hem. Four waist darts, with 1 3/8" waist band ending in arrow tip over left-side lapped zipper. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286814/
- Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of black English gabardine.
a) Jacket with parallel rows of scalloped seam details which angle from the center front neck and shoulders to the side seam to meet the back scalloped seams. Convertible collar. Long, two-piece sleeves with scallop seam detail from wrist to shoulder; underarm shaped with dart. Center front opening with three self covered buttons with bound buttonholes. Lined in black textured silk.
Designer's label at inside, right front buttonhole extension: "Adrian / Original"
Retailer's label at inside back neckline: " Neiman-Marcus"
b) Pencil skirt of same with center front scallop from hip to hem; last scallop is used for shaped vent. Lined in black textured silk. Lapped left-side zipper. Waistband overlap ends in a triangle. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286829/
- Skirt Suit
Navy daytime tailored two-piece suit in British Samek wool.
a) Suit jacket of navy British Samek wool. Center front opening with three circular, blue plastic buttons; welted buttonholes button suit jacket. Padded shoulders. Two patch pockets. Notched collar with squared shoulder yoke with matching button attached to square insert. Lined in eggplant crepe.
Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Adrian / in / British Samek Material"
Tag above designer's label: "A. Herod, Sr."
b) Slim straight skirt of navy British Samek wool. Folded waistband of same. Center back zipper with snap and 4 hook and eyes on waistband. Lined in navy blue silk.
Tag on inside waistband: "A. Herod, Sr." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283769/
- Sling-Back Pumps
Pair of sling-back pumps of black calf leather. Shoes have a narrow platform and are open toe. Rounded throat on vamp, which is decorated with applied oval detailing in 3 layers. Center layer of black grosgrain, upper and lower layers of black leather. Oval cut-out in center of detail. Ankle-strap fastens with small rectangular black metal buckles. 3" black-lacquered French set-under heel similar to a spike form.
Handwritten in side of each shoe: "6 1/2 B / r28514 / 1510-6BF"
Stamped inside both shoes: "Palter DeLiso / Capri / Last"
Stamped in left shoe: "Palter DeLiso inc / New York City"
Right shoe with inlaid woven cloth label: "Neiman Marcus Co. Dallas / Fenwyn / Trade Mark Reg'd" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114988/
Turban style hat of sienna taffeta striped with velvet. Pheasant feathers as trim on front. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head.
Designer's label: "a Paris / Maud et Nano / 107 Faubourg St. Honore"
Tag attached to designer's label: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114874/
Beret of off-white wool. Lined in striped green satin.
Stamped in gold on inside crown: " Anglobasque / de Luxe / Made in / Cumberland - England / 100% Pure Wool" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305354/
Beret of black wool felt. Lined in violet sating with leather inner headband.
Stamped in gold on inside crown: "Kangol / de Luxe / An Anglobasque Product / Made in Cumberland England / 100% Pure Wool" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305336/
Beret of ivory wool felt with gold crown amulet embellished with rhinestones in front. Red grosgrain ribbon inner headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305374/
Poke bonnet of red Milan straw with navy/dark purple velvet fluting. Two hatpins with round, red chenille heads.
Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Made in England / Model / Otto Lucas / London W1"
Retailer's label sewn to designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114897/
- Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat made of black velvet with satin braid trim. Black net veil. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114914/
- Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat in muted pink velvet. Crown has narrow 1" down-turned brim, trimmed with velvet flowers and pink ostrich feathers. Netting of same color as trim. One large, clear rhinestone on side of hat. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114961/
- Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of deep rose colored velvet. Double upturned brim with one velvet flower on left front. One large hatpin with head of large and small pearls separated by a band of rhinestones. Coordinating front veil. Lined in gold metallic fabric with red grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head.
Label on inside crown: "Irene / of New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305370/
Daytime coat of camel brown/tan wool. Street-length or longer, with rounded shawl collar. Double breasted with 6 large circular black silk faille-covered buttons in two vertical rows of 3 each; bound buttonholes. Closure reinforced with two small circular black plastic buttons inside. Two slit. Double welt pockets at sides. Long sleeves with turned-back cuffs showing black silk faille lining. The coat is lined in black silk, with wide bands of black silk faille at cuffs, collar, and sides of opening.
Combined retailer's and designer's label at inside back neck: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330435/
- Cocktail Ensemble
Cocktail ensemble of heavy black silk faille, consisting of:
A) Dress. Long dress, sleeveless, narrow straps, rounded neckline, higher in front. Slightly raised waist. Left side zipper. Very full skirt gathered into waist.
Designer's label at inside skirt side seam: "Traina-Norell / New York"
B) Jacket. Waist length jacket with rounded collar, short, highly puffed "pumpkin" sleeves which gather into shoulders. Center front opening with four black covered buttons. Flares from waist.
Designer's label at inside back collar: "Traina-Norell / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461812/
- Derby Hat
Hat in derby style of navy felt. Edge of crown trimmed in wide bands of navy, gray and red yarn with very narrow gold thread knots tied to tasseled ends of yarn bands. Unlined with navy grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head.
Maker/retailer's label: "A / Neiman / Marcus / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305382/
- Dinner Dress
Formal dinner dress of black wool crepe and lavender satin. Bodice of lavender satin with short, puffed sleeves and low rounded neckline in front, higher in back. Sleeves with elastic gathering at openings. Front of bodice with vertical gathers. Back with open slit and lavender satin drawstring closure at neckline. Empire waist. Skirt of black wool crepe, full-length. Center back zipper in skirt begins at join to bodice where bodice is slit. Unlined.
Combined designer's/retailer's label sewn in skirt, behind Neiman-Marcus id label: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330492/
Ensemble of black wool. The outfit consists of:
A) Dress of black wool. Street-length skirt has attached low front leather belt which passes through pleats on left and right. Bodice has narrow collar and deep V-neck with piping that twists at base of V. Bracelet length sleeves with cuffs. Back zipper. No labels.
B) Jacket of black wool. Jacket has long sleeves with rolled, notched cuffs, and a notched collar. Center front opening has 5 circular, plastic buttons and covered buttonholes. The padded hips have double welt pockets at left and right. The jacket is lined in black silk.
Combined Designer/Retailer label: "Neiman-Marcus dallas / Hattie Carnegie"
National Recovery Board / Coat and Suit Industry label "000006" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283689/
- Evening Gown
Evening gown of bright brown satin and black velvet. Form fitted bodice of brown satin narrows at waist and dips to a center front seam, where fabric is gathered and drapes down to full-length skirt; black velvet skirt surrounds CF fabric and creates a fullness at hips.
Handwritten cloth tape label in skirt: "Charles James 47"
Accompanied by a brassier, not shown in photo.
Designer's Label: "This is an original / Madame Adrienne / 35 other pat. pend. / pat. 3072879" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30228/