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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Country: United States
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Shoes
Pair of ladies' off-white or cream heavy satin wedding shoes. Designed with rounded toes, the slip-in shoes had an embellishment across vamp of an applied white satin bow or pouch. One survives in part. Lined in white fabric. Sole of natural brown leather, heel covered in white satin. Medium-height heel with rounded sides and back, curving inwards and then straight down to base, similar to a modern continental heel. Stamped inside shoe in gilt: "Boston Shoe Store / New Orleans, LA" Stamped inside shoe in green: "350 19664" Worn by Elsie Gauthreaux at her wedding to Robert Iler, 1913. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39021/
Boots
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of white kidskin leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes close along center front with laces, 17 holes high. Embellished at top with band of small holes along edge of boot. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Heels covered with matching leather. Sole of tan leather. Stamped on lining: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" and "28D 23949" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39024/
Shoes
Pair of white kid ladies' shoes. Styled with pointed-toes, the white kid leather upper has a vamp decorated with geometric and stylized foliate designs in crystal beads. The shoes secure across instep with single ribbon tie on each, creating a "peep" just above toes. Lined in white leather. Natural brown leather sole. Heel is of medium height, rounded at back and tapering slightly to base. Similar to what would become a Cuban heel. Maker's code stamped inside: "35-C 3021" Worn by Norma Tiemann at her marriage to Val L. Lehmann in Brenham, Texas in 1907. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39004/
Shoes
Pair of white kid ladies' shoes. Styled with pointed-toes, the white kid leather upper has a vamp decorated with tiny gunmetal beads edging oval cut-outs, and with massed beading at center of each vamp. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Back and sides of heel covered in matching leather. Lined in white leather. Natural brown leather sole. Retailer's stamp inside: "Neiman-Marcus Co. / Dallas Maker's code stamped inside: "150 / B19003" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38987/
Shoes
Pair of shoes of off-white leather. Designed with pointed toes, the shoes have uppers cut to create a large tongue with upper edged cut to a point. Applied to vamp is medium sized bow of same leather. Modified Louis heel covered with same leather. Retailer's label stamped inside: "Neiman Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114807/
Boots
Pair of boots or "High Button Shoes" of gray/very pale blue leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes rounded at the tips, lace closed along center front with laces 16 holes high. The high heels are rounded at sides and back, tapering to center and flaring back out at base, and are curved at front. The sole is of tan leather. Shoes are lined in matching leather and off-white cloth. Retailer's stamp on lining: "Byrn's Boot Sh [partly illeg] / Kansas City" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39015/
Shoes
Pair of lady's shoes of black leather and gray suede. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, are of black leather on toe box, and gray suede on heel, back, and strap across instep, which closes with button on outside of foot. Medium high heels are covered in matching suede and are styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, and with curved front section. Sole of black leather. Retailer's stamp on sole: "MacDougall & Southwick Co. / Seattle, Wash." Hand-written notation on lining: "40 00 20704" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39022/
Shoes
Pair of lady's shoes of brown leather. The shoes, designed with gently pointed toes, are of the Oxford style of brown leather with openwork at sides of instep and with laced closure at instep of 4 holes height. The medium height heels are styled as a modified Cuban or continental heel, with rounded sides and back, tapering to base, and slightly curved at front. The heels covered with matching leather. Sole of tan leather, with rubber/composite on heel. Stamped in lining on one shoe: "Arch Rest / Drew / Portsmouth. O." Stamped into lining of shoe: "8 1/2 AAA 75537 / 6003" Stamped on inner sole: "[drawing of arrow] INTERIOR / DREW / [illeg]CK REST" Tooled into inner sole at heel: "SNUG-FITTING / HEEL" Molded into rubber of heel: "Biltrite" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39023/
Boots
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38997/
Dance Pumps
Pair of lady's dance pumps in white satin. The shoes are of white satin with large bow at vamp and a second bow on the strap which buttons across instep of each shoe. Low/flat heels. White leather insole, and sides lined with white fabric. Retailer's stamp on sole: "S.G. Maddox / Weatherford, Texas." Stamped inside: "4 D 520" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39012/
Handbag
Handbag of multi-colored glass beads of boldly colored, somewhat stylized floral design. Bronze frame cast with floral forms and openwork, and set with navy blue and green rhinestones. Roses on frame have remains of applied coloration. Suspension chain in rope form with spaced clusters of green and blue beads. Bag has fringe at bottom composed of loops of green and black faceted beads. Off-white satin lining, mostly deteriorated. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30015/
Handbag
Handbag. Arched frame of silver (plated?), lightly chased and engraved. Openwork areas on sides of frame allow rings from suspension chain to slide up and down acting as "locks". Mesh bag with enameled design of flowers. Inside bag are makers tag marked: "Mesh / Whiting & Davis Co. / Bags / Reg. U.S. & Can." and brand tag marked "El Sah". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30077/
Hat
Hat of black velvet. Designed as a modified sailor's hat, with a shallow cylindrical black velvet crown with slightly domed top. The wide, flat, black velvet-covered brim has an inner wire form, visible where velvet has been damaged. At side of crown is a spray of black/green cock feathers with a black velvet ribbon bow. The underside of the brim is covered in black velvet, while the crown is lined in black satin. There are no labels in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39108/
Hat
Small cartwheel-style hat. Cylindrical crown of gold and ochre/brown brocade with irregular folds. Circular stiff brown velour brim, not as wide as a typical cartwheel hat but in the same style. Affixed to the crown near the brim on one side is a cluster of three cloth flowers and a sprig of cloth leaves. Affixed to the other side is a plume of brown ostrich feathers. Inside of crown lined in black silk. Embroidered inside crown is maker's marks, including an oval frame containing a monogram, possibly RSCM, and "Gold Medal / Pattern" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39062/
Hat
Hat of gray and cream brocade and black velvet. The high, domed crown is formed of cream and gray brocade, in a stylized pattern of geometric lines and floral forms, recalling Chinese patterns. The oval brim is set off-center, turning up high at front and only slightly at back. Set on the brim are three black velvet bows. The upper side of the brim is of the brocade, while the underside is lined in black velvet. The inside of the crown is lined with a black satin. Retailer's label is sewn inside crown: "Egner / 501 Gordon & Koppel Bldg / Kansas City". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39097/
Hat
Hat of black velvet with soft brim and two ostrich pom-poms attached to left side. Hard velour stand decorated with jet surrounds a shirred crown. Retailer's label on inside crown: "Irwin's / Decor / Cincinnati / St. Louis" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39163/
Hat
Beret-style hat of light purple silk velvet with rigid wire frame aperture and gathered "top knot" secured by a band of purple velvet ribbon. Unlined. No labels or tags. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277074/
Purse
Purse. Ornate bell-shaped silver (plated?) frame with openwork latticework set with red and blue cabochons and with silver (plated?) chain. Body of purse is of crocheted gray with vertical stripes of horizontal rows of faceted blue beads. Bottom of bag with fringe formed of loops of matching beading. Lined in gray satin with roses and vine trim. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30089/
Purse
Purse / Handbag for afternoon use. Rectangular plain polished gunmetal / steel frame with ball/snap closure and matching chain of elongated links. Body of purse formed of gunmetal / steel mesh, with linked chain latticework along bottom edge, terminating in small spheres. Purse of gunmetal mesh, suitable for afternoon use. Inside of frame is engraved "Bessie H. Brown" and "Dallas Texas 4205 Swiss Avenue" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30074/
Shoes
Pair of modified Oxford-style shoes of brown leather. Lace-up at front, with six holes per side, with brown laces. Stitched detail on vamp and sides. Low 1" stacked heel, modified Louis or cuban style. Maker's label stamped inside: "Pace & Levy / Terrell, Tex" Illegible marks written inside shoes. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38991/
Sunbonnet
Sunbonnet of blue cotton with white lace trim. The brim is slightly square-shaped and heavily starched. The top of the crown is stitched to the brim in a flat seam, with fullness created in the lower crown through a set of 3 snaps on each side which fasten the crown to the brim, giving the lower crown a crenelated shape. The bonnet has no tail, and has self-fabric chin ties of blue ribbon. The left tie is formed from two pieces of fabric pieced together, while the right tie is of a single length of fabric. The ties are narrow hemmed, except for one side of a lower section of left tie, which is cut along the selvage and left unfinished. There are no labels or marks in the piece. The fact that this bonnet does not have a tail probably indicates that this was a visiting bonnet rather than a field bonnet. The TFC thanks Rebecca Jumper Matheson for her research on this object. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39043/
Wedding Slippers
Wedding slippers of ivory silk. Shoes have somewhat pointed toes, and ivory silk rosette at top of vamp. 2" high heels, tapering slightly to base, rounded at sides and back, curved at front. Retailer's stamp inside: "Titche Goettinger Co. / Dallas Texas" Partly illegible handwritten numbers inside shoe. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38996/
Hat
Hat of navy blue velvet. Cylindrical crown has slightly concave sides and somewhat domed crown that is gathered into sides in large pleats. Wide brim of matching velvet is of approximately oval shape, set somewhat off-center and with large "split" at side allowing for some overlap, and with rounded ends, one of which hangs below other when hat is worn. At split is navy blue dyed ostrich feather plume. Underside of brim is of same velvet, inside of crown lined with navy blue satin with drawstring opening at top of crown, which has inner lining of cream fabric. No designer's, maker's or retailer's labels in item. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39110/
Hat
Hat of velvet and golden weave cloth. The domed crown is covered in a woven golden cloth shot through with metallic threads. Around the base of the crown is a wide hatband of a similar fabric in the form of a dense ribbon, forming a large bow at front. Set in behind the bow is a semi-circular fan spray of fine white feathers. The wide, circular, slightly floppy brim is of black velvet. The inside of the crown is lined in a dark blue/black satin material. Maker's label stamped in gold on inner lining of crown: "Mme. J. Dagnet / French Millinery / 206 St. Paul St. / Dallas. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39153/
Hat
Hat of ivory/ecru panne velvet, black fur, ivory lace, and a black plume. The crown is of low, crushed ivory or ecrue panne velvet, with a lower border of black fur. The wide brim had an inner wire framework covered with ivory lace, edged with the same black fur. Extending from lower edge of crown at side to off of the edge of the brim is a large black plume. Crown is lined with ivory/ecru satin, with gathered section at center. There are no labels in the hat. Gift of Margaret Baker. From the trousseau of Mrs. Thomas Elmer Braniff. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39098/
Wedding Slippers
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38986/
Hat
Hat of white fur felt. The body of the hat is a single large piece of white fur felt. The domed crown is encircled at it's base by two wide scarves, one of black silk, the other of black and cream striped silk. The two scarves overlap, with trailing ends, and are held together at back by a "knot" embellished with black beading. The wide brim extends around the hat, turning up at the edges. The hat is unlined, the fur extending around the brim but not into the crown. There are no labels or maker's marks. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39101/
Hat
Hat of white felt fur. The domed crown is almost totally covered by ostrich feathers, dyed pale green with violet edges. The brim turns up at ends, and supports lavish embellishments consisting of artificial flowers of various colors of velvet, more dyed ostrich feathers, and a violet silk taffeta bow. The crown and brim, under the added decorations, is covered in a fine black net/veiling, which extends under the brim and into the inside of the crown. The crown is unlined, showing the fur. Maker's paper label partially preserved, attached inside crown: "[Monogram mark RAC(?)] / New York". Label also lists style, "Anita", and price of $4.00. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39100/
Boots
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of black leather and velvet. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, are of black leather at lower portion, and black velvet from edge of vamp to above ankle. Upper section closes with circular, slightly domed black buttons on outer edge, 11 buttons high. 1 3/4" high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, tapering to base, and with curved front section. Logo stamped on sole, partly illegible. Embroidered label inside: "[Monogram - CT Co.?] Autograph" Stamped inside: "Our Own Make / 354 812 / Craddock Terry Co." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86982/
Shoes
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of black leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, close along center front with laces, 19 holes high. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Sole of black leather. Stamped on lining: "350 760 / 3027 [monogram]" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39001/
Shoes
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of black suede. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, are embellished with subtle rows of perforations and stitching. Each boot closes along center front with laces, 19 holes high. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Sole of black leather. Hand-written notation inside on lining: "270 85434" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39000/
Shoes
Pair of woman's white canvas shoes. Designed with slightly pointed toes and a rounded edge at the vamp, the shoes have a single strap across the instep secured with a circular glass button with steel(?) shank. Thick canvas-covered heel shaped as a modified Cuban heel, rounded at sides and back, curved at front, and tapering slightly to base. Sole of leather, originally white/pale, worn to brown. No designer's or retailer's labels. Stamped inside of each: "455 .199 59 [star] / D8083 82566" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86984/
Boots
Pair of boots or "High Button Shoes" of black leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, lace closed along center front with laces 19 holes high. The modified Louis or cuban 2" high stacked heels are rounded at sides and back, and are curved at front. Stamped on lining: "370 4331 0a 66 / Friedman-Shelby / St. Louis" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38999/
Hat
Woman's black velour top hat. Designed after a man's top hat, this version has a cylindrical, slightly domed crown and narrow velour-covered brim which gently curves up. The brim has a second section below, also covered in black velour, that curves downwards, giving the brim an appearance of thickness. Around the lower part of the crown is a folded black silk taffeta grosgrain ribbon, with a large simulated silver metal buckle placed near the front on the right side of the hat. The buckle is of stamped metal simulating cut steel. The hat is lined in black silk. Embroidered label sewn to lining inside crown includes an oval frame containing a monogram, possibly RSCM, and "Gold Medal / Pattern" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30037/
Pumps
Pair of woman's white kid pumps. Designed as modified Oxford style shoes with slightly pointed toes, the white kid uppers are decorated with rows of circular holes along toe-cap, sides of vamp, sides of shoe, and heel. The shoes lace up at center front along instep, 3 holes high. The medium-high heels are curved around sides and back, covered with same leather. Front of heel cut straight across, covered with light tan leather. Stamped inside shoe: "Brooklyn Hand Turns / 'Aristocrat' / 51 - Last". Embroidered label inside shoe: "Paul's / Aristocrats / Hand Made / Turn-Sole". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86998/
Shoes
Pair of black peau de soie heeled shoes. Slightly pointed rounded toe, with an oval openwork area at the throat of the vamp which simulates a buckle. These "buckles" are set with simulated black jet and cut steel beads. The 2 3/8" modified French heel is covered in black peau de soie. Marked on leather sole: "VOLK"; Stamped inside right shoe: "VOLK / DALLAS"; Notation inside each shoe: "172 / 5931 / 2355" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86997/
Toque
Toque of black velvet. The circular crown is of black velvet, gathered at top and crafted to create wrinkles. Brim at sides and front folds up to form "visor" at front of crown, on which are artificial berries, flowers, and leaves. Hat is lined with black satin. Maker's mark stamped inside crown, partly faded/worn: Perry Hat Shoppe / Perry, NY." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39106/
Shoe
Single shoe of tan damask weave cloth and black leather. Shoe designed with pointed toe, the toebox and heel of black leather, the rest of the upper in textured tan cloth. Across instep is wide strap with flaring ends to which is applied an ornate cut/stamped steel simulated buckle. Strap secures with buttons. Modified stacked Louis heel. Stamped inside: "The H&S. Pogue Co. / Cincinnati" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86971/
Hat
Hat of plum colored velvet. Designed as a modified cloche, the low domed crown consists of two layers, "puffed" out and shirred to create gathers and folds. Between the layers is a band of ribbon trim with purple/plum dyed ostrich plumes, which form a "fringe" around the hat. The lower "puff" acts as brim. Lined in black fabric. There are no maker's, designer's, or retailer's labels or marks in the piece. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39105/
Shoes
Pair of woman's shoes of black leather and black suede. The black leather toe sections of the shoes are designed with gently rounded points. The back part of the shoes, and the single strap across the instep, are of black suede. Each of the straps secure with two circular iridescent black buttons. Shoes are lined in tan cloth inside toes, black leather insoles, and black fabric inside heels. Soles of black and tan leather. Medium heel of modified French style, with rounded sides and back, and slightly curving inner side. Stamped in gilt on insole: "Bench / Volk's / Made". Hand-written notation inside shoes: "6C / 18638 / 29" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39002/
Walking Shoes
Walking shoes of tan and black leather. The rounded toe and vamp are of black polished leather, the heel and sides of tan kid leather. A single strap across the instep fastens with two circular buttons out outer side of shoe. Decorative black stitching around edges and across strap on tan leather. Insole of light brown leather, and the insides of the sides are lined in tan leather. heavy low stacked heel. Sole of black leather with heavy applied rubber heel. Maker's label stamped in silver on insole: "Foot Schulze & Co / St., Paul" Stamped notation on lining: "455 29100" Molded into bottom of heel: "WAUK LITE" and "8" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39003/
Shoes
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of dark brown leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, lace closed along center front with laces 16 holes high. Embellished at toe with cut steel beads forming interlacing bands and lines. Medium height heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, tapering to center and then flaring out again at base, and with curved front section. Sole of black leather. Lined in black leather and off-white fabric. Retailer's(?) stamp inside, partly illegible: "Famous / Paris, Tex." Hand-written notation on lining: "38-1 80364" Sold by Famous Shoe Store, Paris Texas (est. 1891). Worn by Kennie Holt Rucker in 1917-1918. Donated by Mary Helen Rucker to the Historical Collection (North Texas State University,Denton, Tex.). Transferred to the Texas Fashion Collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39025/
Afternoon Dress
Afternoon dress of dark green silk satin, crepe and chiffon. The tunic-style dress of dark green silk satin is street-length, with a drop waist. It has a slight standing collar at back which extends out in front to become long ties with a backing of dark maroon. Below the bow formed by the ties is V-shaped neckline. The full-length sleeves are dark green silk satin from shoulders to elbows and are translucent green crepe from elbows to cuffs. The main part of the gauze sections are embroidered with floral motifs in red, pink, and green/gold. The sleeves have two snaps at each cuff, which are trimmed with bands of pink crepe, maroon crepe, and dark green satin. On the front of the skirt are three wide, slightly overlapping tiers of fabric, split at center front, which start below the hips and end slightly above the hem. The dress is unlined, and there are no tags or labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29995/
Boots
Pair of lady's boots of black leather. The "high button shoes" are designed with pointed toes, slightly rounded at tips. The boots lace up along the front with 18 holes. Lined at with black fabric. Modified Louis or boulevard heels, rounded at sides and back, flaring to base, and curved at front. Black leather soles. Embroidered logo inside: "[Part lion/part fish symbol] / Wichert / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc115022/
Pumps
Pair of pumps of black leather. The shoes are designed with pointed toe and plain leather upper. The 2" heel is of modified Louis style, covered with black leather and flaring at base. Retailer label: "Sanger Brothers / Dallas - Waco" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc115021/
Wedding Slippers
Pair of wedding slippers of ivory silk satin. Shoes have pointed toes and slight "rolled edge" stitched accent along top of shoe. 2" high modified Louis or cuban heel, flaring to base. Retailer's mark stamped on insole: "Thayer-McNeil Company / Boston" Handwritten inside shoe: "7054 / 4 1/2 aa / 20942" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc115017/
Bonnet
Bonnet of multicolored fruit print cotton. Eyelet lace trimmed edges. Stiff brim and ties of self. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39209/
Bonnet
Child's bonnet of peach colored, gathered silk crepe with tiny silk ribbons and flowers. Mint green silk velvet ribbon ties. Lined in white cotton gauze. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114969/
Cloche
Cloche style hat of beige crocheted straw. The rounded crown with tucks and folds is created of beige straw which has been crocheted. Around base of crown is band of dark brown piping. Shallow brim is turned up around sides and back, with wide edge band of brown satin with parallel rows of stitching. Front of brim has radiating ridges worked into straw. Hat is lined with dark beige satin. Designer's label sewn into crown: "Budwig / Ltd." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39117/
Cloche
Cloche hat of royal blue velvet and silver lace. The cylindrical crown is of royal blue velvet, slightly domed and slightly "crushed". The top panel of the crown is of silver lace over a dark fabric. Around the sides of the crown, nearer the top than the base, is a horizontal band of the same silver lace. The shallow brim is constructed of the royal blue velvet and overlaid with the silver lace, which extends beyond the edge of the velvet. The crown is lined in a cream/iridescent satin; most of the underside of the brim is lined with blue velvet. Maker's label embroidered to center inner lining panel of crown: [pseudo coat of arms] "The Denver Dry Goods Co. / Paris New York / Denver", with small embroidered "FRONT" indicating the front of the hat. Retailer's label sewn to inner side of crown: "Parisian / Abilene, Tex." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39107/