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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Hat
Hat of dark brown suede with brown mink trim on heart shaped, upturned brim. Two pins with square shaped suede covered ends. Comb on inside, front hatband for securing hat to wearer's head. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114847/
Hat
Hat of fine black balibuntal straw lined with black velvet. Medium high crown with black velvet band typing in large soft bow. Brim uneven, very narrow in back, widening at sides and fullest at left front. Headband of black velvet with large bow of same side back. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277077/
Hat
Hat in modified sailor style of navy blue straw. Medium height crown is domed at top and has straight front edge and rounded back edge. Around the crown is a wide band of black grosgrain ribbon with flat bow at back. Brim is circular, set off-center so more brim is at front of hat than back. Hat is unlined, with black grosgrain band around inside of crown. Affixed at inside back of hat is small puff of black netting. Affixed to inner band is elastic loop to secure to wearer's head. Designer's label at inside lower edge of crown: "Germaine Montabert" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114822/
Hat
Cocktail hat of pink horsehair. The hat is formed of a flat circular tan straw crown completely covered with woven pink horsehair faille formed as layers of ruffles. The whole is mounted at an angle to a circular ring covered in pink satin. No labels on hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114821/
Hat
Hat of midnight blue silk jersey, with flat turban effect in front and draping at sides and back. Brimless with draped loop at the back. Loop is multicolored with bands of light blue, fuchsia and chartreuse sewn together giving striped effect. Elastic strap to secure hat to wearer's head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86990/
Hat
Hat of black felt. Styled somewhat as a fez, the hat has a slightly conical crown with flattened top. At back are two segments of black silk braid/knotwork. Inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label: "Original / Helen Smith / Marshall Field Annex - Chicago" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87075/
Hat
Hat of royal blue very fine straw and plastic weave. Domed crown. Overlapping bands of self create a turban effect. Lined in blue fabric with blue grosgrain ribbon inner headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114785/
Hat
Hat of black felt with high crown. Black jersey used as hatband in front; passes through slits at base of crown and loops under chin. Asymmetrical brim is wider and dips slightly in front and narrows and flips up in back. Unlined with cream colored silk inner headband. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Maker's stamp on inside headband: "Knox / Fifth Ave. New York" Retailer's stamp on inside headband: "Sanger Bros. / Dallas, Texas" Size/style number label under inside headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39080/
Hat
Hat of brown straw with high crown surrounded with beige feathers and a pink satin bow on side. Narrow brim. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Unlined with grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Maker's label: "an original / Vogue Hat / by Garfunkel" Handwritten style number(?) on inner headband: "59.397" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114790/
Hatlet
Hatlet of black velvet. Formed as Juliet cap, the hatlet has a crown of black velvet formed as a stiff low dome with shaped edge creating triangular points at front, back, and each side. At each side of the crown is an applied matching velvet bow with trailing ends. The hat is overlaid with black netting, with small black plastic circles worked into the veil's mesh. The hat is lined in blue cloth, and has an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon around the inside lower edge of the crown. Manufacturer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Frances / Dallas, Texas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39183/
Hatlet
Hatlet of navy blue and white. The crown of the hat is formed of two hollow teardrop shapes, set with points overlapping, of a coarse navy blue fabric edged in dark blue plastic or vinyl piping. Extending from the point of each teardrop is a partly unrolled cone of the same material with an inner white/cream lining. Extending from the open end of each cone are single segments of the piping. The hatlet is overlaid with blue netting/veiling with a wide mesh and with scattered pairs of blue and white beads affixed to intersections of the mesh. The underside of the hatlet is lined in blue grosgrain ribbon, and has two small elastic cords holding two small plastic combs to secure the hatlet to the wearer's head. Designer's label sewn inside: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago" and an applied label with handwritten "318" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38129/
Hatlet
Hatlet of black straw, net, and velvet. The hatlet is based on a metal underframe shaped as an open circle, wrapped, on which are set six black straw pompom forms set in a circle about 6" in diameter. At center of circle is a bow of narrow black velvet ribbon with 4 extending trailing ribbons. The whole is set on a circular veil of black mesh net. Designer's label: "Norman-Pualvin / New York". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87070/
Headpiece
Headpiece of black satin. Headpiece formed as an openwork braided cylinder made of three thick black satin segments. Black grosgrain ribbon inner band, to which is sewn a brown plastic comb to help fasten hat to wearer's head. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286945/
Jacket
Jacket of navy blue wool crepe. Asymmetrically trimmed with pleated band falling from right shoulder, secured with white buckle at waistline. Self belt at waist with matching white buckle. Long sleeved with pleated diagonal at lower right sleeve. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283688/
Picture Hat
Picture hat of reddish brown straw. Low, cylindrical, slightly tilted crown is flattened at top and encircled at base by wide gray grosgrain ribbon which divides into three tiers of streamers cascading at back. Wide floppy brim. Reddish brown inner grosgrain ribbon hatband and black elastic cord to secure to wearer's head. Designer's label at inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / INC." Retailer's label at inner hatband: "Neiman Marcus Co. / New York Dallas Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277133/
Pillbox Hat
Hat of black organza. The hat is in the form of a pillbox designed as a turban. A wired framework is overlaid with black organza, pleated to form long folds running front to back. At the front of the hat is a large bow of the same material, the trailing pieces pleated to match the crown and affixed to run in same direction. Lined in black mesh, and with inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Elastic string inside to run around back of wearer's head to secure hat. Two small hatpins with custom covers of same material on heads are stuck in back of hat. Designer's Label: "Lilly / Dache / Paris New York / 78th East 56th Street, N.Y." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39144/
Pillbox Hat
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87088/
Pumps
Single pump of brown and white suede. Designed as a sling-back spectator pump, the shoe has a 1/4" high brown leather platform and a rounded open toe. The toe box is of brown suede, and is decorated with scrolling lines of perforations, and has a border of perforations. The rest of the upper is of white suede, with an upper border of perforations, is cut-away a the heel, and has a single strap that goes around back of heel and secures with a and a small buckle. The 3 3/4" high heel is covered in brown leather, and tapers to base. Designer's label: "Palter De Liso Inc. / New York City" 2nd Designer's label: "Palter De Liso / Capri / Last" Handwritten notation: "6 1/2B / S469b5 / 7410-2 BH" ONE ONLY - for left foot. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114989/
Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of brownish grey worsted wool in black, white, and warm grey. Jacket of self-worsted wool with notched collar and rounded lapels that extend beyond collar; open front trimmed in half-circle lapels at opening with brass disc button accents; 4 buttons on each side decreasing in diameter to bottom; wide, elbow-length sleeves with 3” cuffs; small shoulder pads within; fully lined in brown chiffon; waist-length. Skirt of matching self-worsted wool is gored with long reverse pleat at center-front surrounded by 2 shorter reverse pleats at each side; slight A-line; hits below knees. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original" Original customer label(?): "James L. Courtney" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283697/
Skirt Suit
Two-piece skirt suit of tan, lightly striped, possibly synthetic material. The jacket is a tailored shell with high rounded neckline and square spread collar. Full-length set-in sleeves. constructed in one piece with darts at the elbows. Center front closure from the neck to hip line with four bound buttonholes with corresponding brown tortoise shell buttons. Bound hip pockets with flaps. The jacket front is intricately pieced. Fully lined in light brown crepe. Designer's label stitched along inside of right front opening: "Adrian / Original" The skirt is narrow, knee-length, with knee-level kick pleat. The skirt is darted into a narrow waistband, and has a left side seam zipper closure from waist to hip line. Lapped closure with single hook&eye and hook&bar. Unlined with turned back hem. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283771/
Toque
Toque hat of gray felt. The high, cylindrical crown of gray felt flares very slightly to the flat top, which is cut on a slant, and is higher at front than back. The top panel is inset, forming a "ridge" of the top edge. The lower edge is also on a slant, with inner band of same felt extending slightly below the crown. The inner band is cut to form a pointed arch at front. No brim. The hat is unlined, but has an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Sewn to inner hatband is retailer's label: "Titche-Goettinger Co. / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39212/
Turban
Turban style hat of black and pink striped satin with stuffed stand up pleated pouf in front. Lined in black net with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Designer's label: "Lilly Daché Paris / 78 East 58th St. New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114786/
Calotte
Hat of beige netting. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), with low, domed crown made of layers of beige net ruffles, with hemmed edges. Designer's label inside: "Florence ... / Dallas". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114795/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of black velvet and felt. Rim of velvet bows surrounding pointed cap supported by scalloped brim. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Madame Suzy / 5, Rue de la Paix / Paris" Label below designer's label: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114855/
Hat
Hat of blue felt with upturned brim covered in white straw. Large domed crown covered in blue net. Unlined. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Made to Order Hat / Bergdorf / Goodman / Fifth Ave. at 58th St." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114905/
Hat
Picture style hat of loose weave natural colored straw. Crown and brim trimmed with brown bugle beads and jewels. Yellow chenille band forming triangles at sides for securing hat to wearer's head. Unlined with yellow grosgrain headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114921/
Skirt Suit
Black wool two-piece skirt suit. A) Jacket. Just below hip-length, with center front opening with three hook-and-eye closures. Faux tie of same fabric at waist. Slight collar, and v-neckline. Thin orange/red inset line across front and up to shoulders. Long sleeves with inset orange/red panels along length of sleeves, with cording detailing and zipper closures at cuffs. Slit pockets just below waist. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original" B) Skirt of matching black wool. Street length. Possibly a replacement for the original skirt. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283687/
Suit
Two-piece suit of beige worsted wool gabardine of tropical weight. The jacket is medium-length and semi-fitted, with a roll collar having wide pointed revers. It has tuck-over wide padded shoulders and long, narrow sleeves. There are slight vertical gathers at waistline, starting at sides and running around back. The center front opening has three large plated metal buttons shaped as trumpet flowers. The jacket is lined in peach crepe. The matching skirt is mid-length, with a narrow waistband that laps over and secures with two hook-and-eye closures. Skirt has four inverted pleats beginning 41.5 cm below waistband and extending down 30 cm. to bottom of skirt, two at front, two at back. Side zipper closure, top of which is where waistband secures. Skirt is unlined, and has no labels. There are three labels in the coat: Designer's label at inside left: "Forstmann / 100% Virgin Wool / © F.W. Co." Retailer's label at inside back collar: "Sanger's / Dallas" Coat and Suit Industry National Recovery Board label inside right side at seam "135776". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30048/
Hat
Hat of natural-colored straw. The domed crown is of patterned woven straw, forming a lace effect. Around the base of the crown is a wide band of light brown grosgrain ribbon, with a bow and trailing ends. The wide brim, of matching straw, curves upwards. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of light brown grosgrain ribbon around inside lower edge of the crown. There are no labels or tags in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39172/
Hat
Hat of tan/light brown fur. The cylindrical crown is flat at top, and encircled at base by wide band of dark brown grosgrain ribbon with large bow and trailing ribbons. The flat, medium-width brim is covered in same fur, but is lined in part with black fur. Hat is unlined, allowing view of stiffening mesh under-structure of crown. Inner gray grosgrain ribbon hatband, and an elastic cord to help secure hat to wearer's head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114789/
Calotte Hat
Calotte of black felt with brown mink trim around front and sides. Quilted crown. Black grosgrain inner hatband; unlined. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "The Fair / Fort Worth" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114945/
Gloves
Glove of pale blue-gray cotton with green undertone. Hands have seams on outside; running stitch of same color; wrists widen and dip in V shape on thumb side; pinkie finger side of wrist features a large scalloped edge. Label sewn in right glove: "Gloves / Designed by / Lilly Dache", with "7" in a circle indicating size. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38130/
Hat
Hat of purple felt. The low, circular crown is mostly flattened, with a slightly undulating surface. Around the crown is a wide band of turquoise crushed silk jersey held in place by crossing bands of fuchsia pink and dark blue purple yarn. The wide, flat oval brim is set just slightly off-center to the crown, giving a wider brim in front than back. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of purple blue grosgrain ribbon around the inside base of the crown. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Henry's / Originals / Dallas". This hat was designed to be worn with a skirt suit of Mexican homespun cotton designed by Adrian, accession number 1967.002.003. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39127/
Hat
Hat of black felt with two bands of wide, wine red colored velvet ribbon off left and right sides meeting at center and extending off back of crown. Black coque feather trim at back. Retailer's label: "Northridge / Inc. / 1 W. 57th St. / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114884/
Skirt Suit
Two-piece daytime skirt suit of Mexican homespun cotton consisting of: A) Jacket. Body of jacket is purple, long sleeves and collarless yoke of green, with a narrow band of rose inserted below yoke in front. Jacket has padded shoulders and is slightly fitted, and closes with hooks and eyes in front. Small string tie at waist. Fully lined in purple silk. Designer label inside: "Adrian / Original" B) Skirt. Skirt is purple, below knee-length, of slim design flaring slightly. Was altered to lengthen, and then restored to original length. Side zipper closure, and waistband has snap and two hook-and-eye closures. No Labels. A hat was made to go with the suit by Henry's, Dallas, accession number 1967.002.003 digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283669/
Cartwheel Hat
Cartwheel hat of black velvet with small, flat crown. Wide brim is covered with black feathers radiating from crown. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Edward Paine / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114892/
Fedora Hat
Fedora style hat of brown felt with brown satin ribbon as trim around crown. Unlined. Retailer's label: "Knox / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114913/
Hat
Hat of red felt. The crown is of red felt, with sloping sides, and a a recessed flat top center panel. The wide brim is also of red felt, overlaid with a wide pleated band of red grosgrain ribbon which is attached by an inter-woven thin band of the red felt. The hat is unlined, with an inner red grosgrain ribbon hatband inside the base of the crown, and with a bow of red felt at the back, underside, of the brim. A thin black elastic cord is attached to the inner band, to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Edward Paine / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39158/
Hat
Bandeau style hat of black fox fur with black velvet ribbon ties and velvet lining. Retailer's label: "Saks - Fifth Avenue / Custom Made" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114850/
Picture Hat
Picture style hat of black felt. Asymmetrical brim is wider on sides. Fringe of self as trim encircles crown and drapes across brim. Unlined with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "John Fredericks Inc. / New York" Tag at left of designer's label: "Made in America" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286784/
Beret
Beret style hat of ochre colored chenille yarn. Retailer's label on inside crown: " Alexander & Oviatt / Los Angeles" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86978/
Calotte Hat
Calotte of black straw cloth. White fabric rosebuds and daisies with green leaves form headband as trim over small brim in front. Edge of hat trimmed in black velvet. Black veil gathers to velvet ribbons on ends to form tie for securing hat to head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114970/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of maroon straw trimmed with grosgrain ribbon. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114737/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of navy blue wool felt. Right side extends with a strip of felt curling downward then upward to a point trimmed with a strand of pears, gold leaves, and blue/green bugle beads. Unlined with a blue grosgrain hatband. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Ginette Robert / de Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114958/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of shiny green straw with downward brim. Red and green feather trim. Rose veil with small chenille dots. Designer's label: "Ginette Robert / de Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39196/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of black velvet with black net veil in front. Lined in green fabric. Retailer's label: "Saks Fifth Avenue / Debutante" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277045/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of brown felt. Domed crown. Two bands of matching felt circle edge of hat and tie to form a large knot on the right. Tie ends stand away from hat. Unlined with brown grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Retailer's label: "Gus Mayer / Co. Ltd." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39082/
Cartwheel Hat
Cartwheel hat of natural colored straw. Brim is wider in front than on back. Trimmed with hatband of wide, black grosgrain ribbon that forms bow in back. Edge of brim trimmed in black grosgrain. Unlined. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" Union label number 852534 to left of retailer's label on inside hatband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114902/
Cartwheel Hat
Cartwheel hat of brown straw. Wide brimmed with open crown. Two accordion folded, brown grosgrain pieces of trim with trailing tail as decoration. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" Union label attached to retailer's label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114901/
Ensemble - Jacket and Skirt
Ensemble consisting of jacket and skirt. The fitted black velvet jacket is encrusted with gold braid/ribbon in a lattice/trellis pattern over the entire surface, with added buttons, cabochons, beads, etc. lavishly sewn over the surface. The jacket has a no collar, and short capped sleeves. From the natural waist flares a peplum. The jacket has a center front closure of hooks-and-eyes. Unlined, it has built-in shoulder pads. No label in jacket. The accompanying straight skirt is full-length, of heavy black crepe. Center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at waistband. Designer's label inside skirt at side seam: "Adrian / custom", along with a second label, typed on white grosgrain ribbon, sewn in: "Neiman Marcus 417 / Size 12". This garment reflects Adrian's celebration of the lifting of wartime restrictions on types and quantities of materials and trimmings that could be used in making clothes. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30229/