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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Decade: 1920-1929
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Cloche
Cloche hat of beige/dull dusty rose pink rayon faille. The domed crown is crated from a folded/draped and seamed piece of fabric with dark brown braid and light tan and metallic cord. At front of hat is very short brim decorated with brown grosgrain ribbon forming overlapping sections as the ends of a bow. Hat is lined in a red/coral fabric. There are no maker or designer labels or marks in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39111/
Cloche
Cloche of black velour. The domed crown is of "crumpled" black velour encircled at the base by a band of silver ribbon. The narrow brim is curled up at the edge and sides, and is lined with a multicolored brocade with metallic threads as accents. On right side of hat, near base of crown, is a large pompom of black feathers. Set near the pompom is a pin of black composition/plastic and silvered metal in the form of a hook (partly missing?). The crown of the hat is lined with greyish silk embroidered in gold. Maker's and Retailer's label embroidered inside crown: "Paris New York / Jaccard / Hats / Made expressly for / Neiman-Marcus Co. / Dallas" Paper label stapled to lining: "Sanger Bros. / Dallas, - Texas / 226-1 / 10-26 / $35.00 / 30.00" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39124/
Evening Dress
Evening dress of embroidered silk organza with pink silk acetate lining and belt; square neckline; sleeveless with rhinestone embellished velvet straps attached by rhinestone snaps in front and back; velvet trim; three tiers with pink floral embroidery; pink velvet belt embellished with rhinestones and a velvet flower digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30052/
Gloves
Pair of gloves. Ivory kid leather gloves with brown and gray embroidery. Hands have inside seaming; 3 darts on top; darts highlighted by rows of gray chain-stitching with ivory dots woven in; wrists have sewn on cuffs; cuffs feature strip of pale off white leather; embellished with geometric and circle embroidery in brown thread; snap under wrist creates keyhole underneath as well. Stamped inside in purple ink: "Made in Belgium / Real Kid". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38132/
Gloves
Pair of gloves of ivory colored leather. On back of each glove is a stitched swirl design of 5 ribs. The gloves widen to end with piped hems, and extend to about mid-forearm. Appears to be a youth size. Stamped inside gloves: A) "ARIS" logo in hemisphere; "U.S. Pat. / Aug. 22'22"; and with various stamped numbers inside the glove for sewing and matching pieces. B) "5 3/4"; "U.S. Pat. / Sept 19'22 / Made in Germany"; and with various stamped numbers inside the glove for sewing and matching pieces. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87118/
Hat
Hat of burnt orange/rust colored straw. The domed crown is of finely woven burnt orange/rust colored straw with secondary horizontal bands of slightly larger strands woven into the base material. At its base, the crown curves in, under, down and out, creating a "mushroom" effect, with the main part of the crown as the "cap", and a smaller section of "stalk" below. The oval brim is of the same woven straw, and set off-center to the crown, creating a much wider brim at sides and back, and a smaller brim in front. The edge of the brim is edged in coarl colored silk. The hat is unlined. There are no labels or tags in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39104/
Cloche
Cloche hat of burnt sienna-colored straw. The high domed crown of woven straw is decorated with flowers and leaves formed by embroidering and couching, but using fine brown and cream cloth rather than thread. The brown fabric flowers have beaded centers. The very narrow brim of matching straw is turned up at front, and edged with brown fabric and bound with dark golden yellow threads. The hat is lined in fine black cloth, through which can be seen the inner stitching of the "embroidery". There are no designer, maker, or retailer labels in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39115/
Cloche
Cloche hat of beige straw. The high, domed crown is created of fine beige straw which has been crocheted. At the base of the crown is a wide band of beige grosgrain ribbon edged with a very thin ribbon band, with a finely pleated section to one side. The cloche has a small brim, mostly down-turned. Over the entire crown and brim is sewn thin "ribbon" bands in a different type and shade of straw, forming several large leaf forms and filling the rest of the space with scrolling decoration. The interiors of the leaf forms are hand-painted in blue, purple, brown and green. The interior of the crown is lined in a tan/copper fabric, and the underside of the brim is lined in a cream fabric. There are no labels in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39116/
Cloche
Cloche of beige silk. The domed brim is of beige silk top-stitched and quilted to a base of grayish felt. The stitching is in the form of repeated and spiraling lines. At base of crown is wide band of brown grosgrain ribbon with bow at front. The brim is of the same material as crown, is shallow, and turns downward. It frames the face, with triangular extensions at sides. Hat is unlined. There are no labels or tags in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39121/
Cloche
Cloche hat of beige felt. The high, domed crown is of dark beige/brownish felt, pulled and gathered to create texture at top back. The brim, of the same felt, is narrow, curving down at sides and up at back. Around the base of the crown is a wide band of brown grosgrain ribbon, which passes through slots in the upturned back section of the brim. At the side of the hat, the ribbon is gathered slightly, and has three segments that extend forward around the crown, fanning upwards to partly cover the front of the hat. The hat is lined in a slightly iridescent bronze fabric. In crown of hat is ornate embroidered label consisting of an oval surmounted by a device with triple ostrich plumes; small coats of arms at the ends of the oval, and the text " Imported / Amhat / Chiffon Felt", with inscription below: "Reg. U.S. Patent Office". Attached inside base of crown is original paper tag: "Berlin / Amhat / New York" and "Triste / Imported / Chiffon Felt". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39064/
Cloche
Cloche-type hat of blue-green velvet. An early example of the cloche hat, it has a narrow up-turned brim. All around the crown is floral decoration carried out in beading, applique, and embroidery. Also with thin lines of gold thread sewn throughout. The edges of the brim are similarly decorated. Remains of silk lining. Original cataloging indicates the had had a Sanger Bros., Dallas, price tag inside marked $35, on sale for $30. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30068/
Coat
Coat of floral brocade and blue velvet. The mid-length wrap coat is made of Jacquard woven silk(?)in a pattern of flowers in blues, taupe, and browns on a dark brown ground, with metallic gold stitching throughout. The raglan sleeves and the collar are edged in wide bands of gathered ruched aqua blue/green velvet. Center front opening with no closures. The coat is lined in aqua blue/green velvet. No labels in garment. Owned by Mrs. Carlton L. Yager of California, aunt of the donor, who called it her "Opera Coat". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30232/
Hat
Hat of lavender horsehair overlaid with lace and velvet. The daytime hat has a high, domed crown of braided/woven horsehair. Around the sides of the crown is a band of pale lavender velvet overlaid with a band of dark blue velvet, which itself is partly overlaid by pale blue lace. Around the back of the crown is a band of pale blue velvet, a section of which is also at the base of the crown at the front of the hat. The brim is of the same horsehair, and stitched up in back to create the effect of having the brim extend around sides and front, but not the back. The brim is overlaid with lace as the crown. At left side of hat, along base of crown, is a small embellishment consisting of two tubular beads and three circular beads set with rhinestones. The hat is lined in blue satin. Retailer's(?) paper label attached inside crown at back: "Sanger Bros. / Dallas - Texas", with original price of $20.00. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39151/
Hat
Hat of ecru lace and black horsehair. The high, slightly domed crown is formed of ecru lace, with a black satin ribbon bow to side, and a black satin band around the base of the crown, partly obscured by the lace. The wide, undulating black horsehair brim is oval, wider to sides than front to back. Inside of crown originally lined with fine, transparent black tulle, remains of which form an inner hatband at inside base of crown. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Paris / della Donna / New York". Intended for afternoon wear. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39150/
Hat
Hat of sienna/reddish silk taffeta. Styled somewhat as a cloche, the cylindrical crown is "collapsed", creating the effect that it has been partly flattened, with horizontal creasing. Top of crown is flat. Around the sides is horizontal bands of stitching in gold metallic thread. Appliqued to the front and sides of the hat are velvet blossoms and leaves in greens, rust reds/oranges, etc. At base of crown is a band of rubbed rust red/orange. The narrow brim is lined in same rust red/orange velvet, and is turned up at back allowing it to be seen. The crown is lined in a golden orange satin fabric. No labels in item. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39123/
Hat
Hat of brown straw. Based on a boater, the hat has a crown of woven brown straw, somewhat domed, and somewhat "mushroom shaped", extending out over the sides of the crown. Around the base of the crown is a band of brown and tan silk ribbon, which has been unraveled. To one side of the crown is affixed a large pink/patterned silk crepe flower. The wide brim curls slightly at edge, and is trimmed at edge with the same unraveled ribbon. The crown is partly lined in black fabric with drawstring closure at top to adjust fit. There are no labels or tags in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39238/
Hat
Hat of silver metallic mesh cloth. The hat is formed as a pillbox-style turban. The cylindrical crown has a flattened top, and two long trailing bands hanging from the back. The bands are designed to wrap around the head, and clasp with integral rhinestone-set buckles. The hat is unlined. There are no labels or tags in the hat. Probably from France. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39070/
Hat
Cloche hat of blue-green velvet. An early example of the cloche hat, it has a narrow up-turned brim. All around the crown is floral decoration carried out in beading, applique, and embroidery. Also with thin lines of gold thread sewn throughout. The edges of the brim are similarly decorated. Remains of silk lining. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39148/
Cloche
Cloche hat of straw. The high, domed straw is crown of sienna-red braid, with a band of solid reddish-pink silk around the base. Below the silk band is multi-colored ruched trim extending less than 1/4" from the band. Below the trim is a brim covered by sienna grosgrain ribbon, extending very slightly in front and disappearing in back. The hat is lined in a metallic bronze fabric. No designer's or retailer's labels, but hat does retain original price tag inside crown. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39113/
Cloche
Cloche of rose straw. The high, rounded crown is of finely braided rose/pink colored straw. At one side is an applique in green, beige, peach, and brown of a stylized floral design in silk taffeta with colored straw detailing and outlines. Around the base of the crown is a segment of rose satin quilted with lines of copper and tan straw, turned up at front to form a brim and turned downwards at back. The hat is lined in an iridescent red satin. There are no labels in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39120/
Evening Shoes
Pair of cream satin sling-back evening shoes with leather embellishments. The shoes, designed with rounded toes, are in a modified D'Orsay pump style, with sides cut back. Plain cream satin uppers are edged with wide bands/stripes of gold and silver metallic leather. 2" high heel, slightly set-in, tapering slightly to base. Stamped inside: "Saks / Fifth Avenue" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114894/
Headband
Headband of black felt. The hat is designed to fit across the top of the head, coming to a rounded point on left side, and with an enlarged circular end on the left which sits higher on the head. The headband is "peaked" along the length, adding height to wearer. Designer's label sewn inside: "Marcelle Rousseau / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277141/
Cloche
Cloche hat of lace and velvet. The deep, domed crown is of peach satin (?) overlaid with a silver metallic lace. At the front of the crown are applied leaf shapes of dark pink velvet that form a fan-motif. The lowest leaves on each side extend to become a shallow brim for the hat, also formed of the dark pink velvet. The leaves and the brim are quilted with metallic silver stitching. The hat is lined in pink satin(?). Label sewn inside crown: "Pittsburgh / Character Hats / New York / Trade Mark Reg. / U.S. Pat. Office" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39174/
Cloche
Cloche hat of tan straw. The high, domed crown is of woven tan straw in a spiraling pattern. On either side of the crown is an applique in blue, pink/gray, and black felt of an arc or half-circle. On one side, the arc points up, on the other side it points down. Around the base of the crown is a narrow band of black felt. The brim is also of woven straw, upturned at sides and edged with black felt. The hat is lined in a slightly iridescent bronze/gold fabric, now very shattered. Inside the crown is stitched an ornate label, with a view of two women playing tennis and the inscription: "Berkeley / Made in / California". A small arrow and the word "Front" indicates the front of the hat. Attached to an inner seam of the lining is size label "22". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39067/
Cloche
Cloche of chocolate brown felt. The hat has a domed crown of brown felt to which is applied segments of sienna red/brown velvet as appliques, forming draping at sides. Unlined, with inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39065/
Crocheted Cap
Crocheted cap of brown cotton yarn styled as a pillbox. The hemispherical crown is flat at top and slopes to base. The hat has no brim and is unlined. Stuck through the sides of the crown are two brass hatpins formed as over-sized hairpins. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114817/
Evening Coat
Evening coat of black and gold brocade in a large scale tropical motif. The wrap-style coat has a shawl collar of red fox fur with kimono style sleeves trimmed in fox. The coat is fully lined in gold silk velvet. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29997/
Handbag
Large Handbag. Rectangular gilt frame with ball/snap closure set with cabochon green stones. Body of bag formed of red, silver, grey, and black beads in a mosaic/Turkish carpet pattern. Bottom of bag with beaded fringe matching body of bag. Lined in pale peach satin with one pocket and attached small coin purse. Sewn into lining is woven tag "Made In France"; Marked on frame "Made In France". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30017/
Hat
Hat of black felt. The hat, for day wear, has a domed black felt crown. On either side of the crown is a large black velvet bow with trailing ribbons. The black felt brim is set off-center, providing for more brim at front of hat and less at back. The front of the brim curves up, and is faced in black velvet. The front half of the hat has a black veil with scattered "dots" in the netting. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon around the inside lower edge of the crown. A small stitched star on the inner hatband indicates the front of the hat. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Custom Made". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39175/
Cloche
Cloche of pale green straw and orange velvet. Domed crown of the cloche-style hat is overlaid with orange/red velvet leaf shapes. Around the sides of the crown are applied overlapping circular panels of pale green braided straw. On the left side of hat a single straw panel is placed low so that half of it hangs below the crown. Inside of hat is lined with peach silk. Designer's label inside crown: "Dauphine / Paris / New York". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39122/
Cloche
Cloche hat covered in appliqued velvet leaves. The cloche hat has a domed crown completely covered with vari-colored velvet leaves/blossoms in shades of pink, red, green, gold, fuchsia, brown, purple, etc. At base of crown is tied a fuchsia velvet ribbon with bow with ribbons trailing at right. Slight brim below ribbon, which extends downwards. The hat is lined in pink/fuchsia lace, and has an inner purple/mauve grosgrain ribbon hatband inside base of crown. Sewn into inner ribbon hatband is retailer's label: "Stern and Mann / Millinery. Received with a period white-painted wooden hat-stand. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39202/
Dress
Dress of rose pink rayon and silk, with ivory silk Peter Pan collar and with cut-out stitched trim. 24 silver ball buttons on left side, and geometric triple-tiered ruffles with drop-waist and self-fabric belt with silver buckle. Long, straight sleeves with ivory satin cuffs with stitched trim; single snap closure. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29996/
Evening Coat
Evening coat of gold metallic brocade in a floral motif with multicolored rectangles. Cocoon-style, with white fox collar, the full-length barrel sleeves with matching fur trimmed cuffs. The coat has a single button closure, and pink silk satin lining. Label: "Hattie Moss, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29999/
Fan
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38053/
Hat
Hat of blue straw. The hat is of finely woven blue straw, having a crown styled somewhat as a cloche, high, rounded, and somewhat irregular, curving inward at base. The crown has several applied blue straw 3-lobed bows scattered over the surface. The brim is of dark blue crepe over a fine white straw mesh base (visible only from inside crown), the crepe also covering the lower part of the crown. The brim is set off-center to crown, with wider section to front and narrower sections at back and sides. Applied to the crepe are several of the 3-lobed straw bows and two bordering bands near edge of brim, consisting of thin woven bands of blue straw. The underside of the brim is covered with the blue crepe, while the inside of the crown is unlined. There are no labels or tags in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39103/
Hat
Hat of brown felt with cloche style crown. Folded brim and front tie of same. Unlined with brown grosgrain ribbon headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39066/
High-Heeled Shoes
One pair of woman's high-heeled shoes with split t-strap, forming an inverted "V" from vamp to strap. The shoes are covered in a metallic copper/bronze silk textured weave and edged in gold metallic finished leather. The Boulevard set-under heels are lacquered with a metallic gold finish and set with rhinestones. One shoe with label inside: "Wise Shoe / For Every Occasion" Both shoes with hand-marked notations: "6 1/2 aa / D30014 / 11-564" Some rhinestones on the heels have been replaced at some point in the past with other rhinestones that do not quite match the original stones. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30053/
Bonnet
Infant's bonnet of ivory silk with ruched brim. Pink rosebuds embellish brim. Smocking on back of crown. Lined in pin-tucked gauze. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87051/
Cap
Hat of striped silk satin. Formed as a baseball cap, the crown is a dome created by 5 triangular segments of cream silk satin with green and thin black stripes. The cloth is cut and arranged so the stripes run vertically to top of crown. The brim is formed as a cap's bill, larger than usual, of the same striped material, with the stripes running from crown to front edge. The hat is unlined, with a small loop sewn in to hang cap. Label inside crown: "Made in France". Made to match a 2-piece ensemble of slacks and waistcoat in the same materials. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39095/
Child's Slip
Infant's slip of cream wool. Sleeveless with snap opening at shoulders. Trimmed with ivory blanket stitch embroidery around neckline, arm openings and around scalloped hemline. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87059/
Cloche
Cloche of beige straw. The domed crown is of Milan straw in a small braid. The wide brim is folded up against the hat, and is formed of similar straw work but in concentric bands of beige and darker brown, forming horizontal stripes across the forehead of the hat. Around the base of the crown, visible from sides and back, is a wide band of cream/beige grosgrain ribbon. A pleated "arrow" of the same ribbon is affixed at right temple, extending up and back along the side of the crown. Inside of crown lined in cream/beige fabric. No designer's, maker's, or retailer's labels in item. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39114/
Cloche
Cloche hat of beige straw. The cloche is based on a Phrygian cap, although lacking the forward-pointing section at top. It is of crocheted beige straw thread. The crown is rounded, coming to a gentle point at to, and with sides that extend downwards to cover the ears. At the front is a crescent-shaped panel of printed chiffon which extends back and down sides of hat. The panel is printed with an abstract floral/foliate design in greens, reds, blues, and golds on a beige ground. Outlining the printed design is applied beige and gold cording, which are couched and sewn to the panel. The sides of the hat are embellished with vertical tucks, and the back has sections turned up and sewn to the crown. The hat is lined in a peach satin. Sewn inside crown is brand label: "Sheila / The Perfect Hat". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39119/
Gloves
Gloves of light off white kid leather with brown piping. Hands have 3 darts outlined with brown thread on top; wrist portion extends almost to elbow; triangular inserts of same leather with tiny circles punched out lays over brown leather create full trumpet shaped wrist opening; vent at bottom wrist near hand with 2 pearl button closures. Stamped inside of left glove: "Made in Saxony"; "9468"; "V T ES / 1445"; "ARIS" (logo within arch); "US PAT / AUG 22 '27" Stamped inside of right glove: "6"; "US PAT / SEPT 19'22"' "3126 / 8"; "9468" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38133/
Hat
Hay of gray "horsehair". The crown is of woven gray "horsehair", thin material with concentric thicker bands within. Around the base of the crown is a wide blue velvet ribbon, and on the front of the crown is an arrangement of artificial flowers of velvet in pinks, blues and greens. The wide, oval brim is set off-center, widest at sides, wide at front and very shallow at back. The edge is wired, giving it a "wavy" edge. The hat is unlined, with a wide band of satin ribbon around the inside base of the crown. There are no labels or marks in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39057/
Hat
Headwrap of blue chiffon with band of tan mink fur centered with white rhinestone clasp as trim. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114893/
Infant's Jacket
Infant's jacket or capelet of cream wool. Open on the sides with pink ribbon ties at neck and underarms. Trimmed around the edges with blanket stitch embroidery. Front flaps decorated with french knots and daisy stitch flowers. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87057/
Infant's Jacket
Infant's jacket of cream colored wool twill. One piece construction. Edges trimmed with ivory blanket stitch embroidery. Open on sides. Closed with ivory ribbons at neck and under arms. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87058/
Infant's Slip
Slip for an infant of white cotton. Sleeveless. White work embroidery at neck and hem. Narrow lace edging at neck and armholes with wider lace edging at hemline. Two button closure at center back neckline. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87056/
Bonnet
Bonnet. High domed cylindrical crown is made of artificial material simulating straw or horsehair in a lose weave forming concentric rings. The crown has applied standing bands of the woven material and has applique of flowers and leaves in various colors of velvet. Tied around base of crown is a pink silk band. The wide oval brim is of the same material as the crown, set so that it is wider side-to-side and narrower from front-to-back. The outer edge of the underside of the brim has a lining of pleated blue silk(?) ribbon. The crown of the hat is lined in pink fabric. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39182/
Dress
Evening dress of orange/tangerine silk chiffon with cut velvet fish scale design in silvery white partly outlined with silver bugle beads. Sleeveless, with round scoop neck, and armholes cut to waist. Straight tubular shape with drop waist, with a swag of pleated self-fabric at left hip, trimmed with five rhinestone medallions. 1" fur trim at hem. Dress has been shortened and fur may have been added at that time. Probably originally 1918-20's style. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30088/