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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Decade: 1920-1929
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Gloves
Pair of gloves of kid skin leather; off-white; just below wrist length; single snap fastenings at wrist. On back of each glove, running length-wise down hand are three embroidered bands, pink and blue chevrons in diamond formation on dark blue bands. Cuffs from wrist to end are lined with black silk heavily embroidered with floral motifs in blue, pinks, reds, whites, greens, etc. in chain-stitch. Remainder of glove is unlined. Stamped inside glove: "Modèle déposé [Fr-En: Registered Design] / Paris" and "6" and part of other marks. Metal parts of the snaps have what appear to be Chinese/Japanese characters stamped into them. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87119/
Handbag
Handbag. Rectangular silver art deco openwork frame set with tiny marcasites and circular cabochon black stones (onyx?). Bag is of black silk velvet. Handle of black silk velvet with two silver rings set with marcasites. Lined with dusty pink ribbed silk, and containing a small rectangular mirror. Marked on frame: "MD" in a square; Diamond shaped mark with an M over a K; and an illegible shield-shaped punch. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30047/
Hat
Hat of off-white French linen. The soft crown is domed and formed of six segments. Around the base of the crown is a red linen ribbon, threaded through a series of six "belt-loops" spaced around the base of the crown at approximately where the segments join. The slightly stiffened, and quilted in a pattern of concentric circles. The hat is unlined, and has an inner hatband of off-white linen at inside base of crown. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Made in France". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39180/
Hat
Hat of red purple/plum silk velvet. The hat has elements of a turban, tam-o-shanter, and beret. It is made with an oversized crown of red purple or plum velvet, gathered, caught, and draped, pulling under and then back out to form a brim that does not extend as far as the billows of fabric from the crown. The fabric is embellished with running lines of matching chenille, and clusters of silver-gray painted wooden beads. The hat is lined in black satin. Retailer's label sewn inside crown: "Pogue / Cincinnati". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39069/
Hat
Calotte with braided yellow ribbon crown with brown and dark brown knotted yarn brim. Designer's label on inside brim: "J. Suzanne Talbot / Modes / 14 Rue Royale Paris" Maker's label : "34064" Label on inside brim: "made in france" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39135/
Hat
Beret of hand knit white yarn with folded side tab trim of white linen on left and right. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39143/
Hat
Hat of black satin with asymmetrical brim upturned at front with faux fur crown. Brim is satin on top with pleating on underside. Label sewn into lining of crown: "Bijou / Paris New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39170/
Hat
Small child's hat of blue and white checked gingham. Buttoned on, detachable brim with 7 small white buttons. Crown gathered by drawstring. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39132/
Hat
Calotte of rust brown knit with rolled straw brim in browns and gold. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Agnes / 6 Rue St Florentin / Paris" Label above designer's label: "Made in France" Size label on inside hatband: "22 1/2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39134/
Headpiece
Headpiece of moderately muted red orange velour. The covered wire bandeau is designed to be worn over head, encircling ears, and has about thirty velour loops accented with eight randomly tied dangling pendants. Each pendant consists of three silver-colored globular beads and three silver oval beads and one larger white opaque globular glass bead at the end of each pendant. Donor stated that the piece had been worn by the Russian ballet dancer, Anna Pavlova. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39192/
Parure - Hat, Bracelets, Necklace, Belt
Parure made of natural, brown, and black woven/plaited straw, consisting of: A) Hat. Styled as an oversized calotte (also spelled "calot") or small cloche. The domed crown is constructed of radiating segments of woven/plaited straw in bands of brown, natural/tan, and black. At the top of the crown is a circle of black straw. Slightly scalloped lower edge. Designer's(?) label inside: "Marcelle Biot / 30 Rue de Valois / Paris" and 'Made in France" Three matching bracelets: B) Natural/tan straw bracelet, with a single band of brown straw and a single band of black straw. Black metal clasp. C) Brown straw bracelet, with a single band of black straw and a single band of natural/tan straw. Black metal clasp. D) Black straw bracelet, with single band of brown straw and a single band of natural/tan straw. Black metal clasp. Each bracelet with label: "Made in France". E) Matching necklace of bands of natural/tan straw and brown straw, with thin bands of black straw. Designed as a modified "bib" necklace, wider at center and narrowing to clasp ends. Black metal clasp. F) Matching belt, with lengthwise bands of natural/tan straw and brown straw, with thin bands of black straw. Black straw "buttons" and loops. "Made in France" label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39138/
Pumps
Pumps of black satin and black kid leather. Vamp with cutwork in leather forming a modified sunray or comet design centered on circular metal button set with rhinestones. The cutwork is embellished with black jet beadwork. Louis XV style heels covered in black satin. Stamped inside one shoe in gold, partly illegible: "Kasson's / Knickerbocker / Cincinnati" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30028/
Pumps
Heeled pumps of black leather. Vamp has shaped leather segment simulating a buckle, embellished with cut steel bead trim. Narrow 2 1/4" high Boulevard-style heel covered in black leather. Marked in each shoe: "6 1/2 AA B 85814 / 2418" Label in right shoe: "Special / Measurements / By W.B. Coon Co." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114830/
Purse
Handbag of black silk faille with multicolored floral embroidery. Purse has round, gold frame in leaf motif and plunger closure. Gold chain handle. Peach lining with pocket. Retailer's label: " Sanger Bros. Inc. / Paris - France" Label above pocket in side of purse: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277068/
Purse
Handbag of glass beads of boldly colored shades of green, yellow, red, blue, pink and black in a somewhat stylized floral design. Bronze frame cast with floral forms and openwork, and set with navy blue and green cabochons. Roses on frame have remains of applied coloration. Suspension chain in rope form with spaced clusters of green and blue beads. Bag has looped and twisted fringe at bottom composed of green and black faceted beads. Pink satin lining, mostly deteriorated. Ball and socket filigree closure. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277055/
Purse
Coin purse in circular shape of glass beads shades of white and light blue. Rose flower design in center. Semicircular brass frame and ball twist closure. Trimmed with black bead loop and 5mm crystal on bottom. Pink rope handle. Cream colored cloth lining. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277006/
Purse
Clutch style purse of size 18 beads in paisley pattern in shades of pink, blue, peach, black and opal white. Wide brass lift lock closure includes 5 shapes of size 16 beads with repeating patterns. Lined in cream colored satin with two pockets. Finger loop of same on back side of purse at top. Maker's label on inside of purse: "Made in France / Exclusively by / Florentine" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276979/
Purse
Cosmetic case of silver in envelope shape with etching. Plunger opening. Gold interior of floral design with mirror and openings to hold makeup. Silver chain handle alternates between chain links and bars. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277158/
Hat
Hat of red velvet and bronze/green gold gauze. Hat is styled as a turban, the crown of red velvet with various folds and puffs. Around the sides of the crown are braided bands of the same velvet and of a bronze/green gold gauze, giving the edge of the hat the appearance of being a turban wound in two different fabrics. Original lining missing(?), revealing the inner lining of loosely woven white fabric stitched to hold the folds and bands of cloth. No designer's, maker's, or retailer's labels in the item. Item may be of either British or American manufacture. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39125/
Hat
Small girl's homemade hat with wire frame. Yellow dotted Swiss cotton crown. White organdy brim and hatband. Edges embroidered with narrow lace ruffle underneath. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39133/
Suit
Woman's suit consisting of three pieces, a coat, blouse, and skirt. Coat and skirt are made of navy blue wool. The coat has a center front opening, and long sleeves which end just above wrist. The skirt is slightly below mid-calf length. The blouse is made of rust-colored chiffon with rounded neck, and is decorated with beading and embroidery. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29994/
Cloche
Cloche hat of beige/dull dusty rose pink rayon faille. The domed crown is crated from a folded/draped and seamed piece of fabric with dark brown braid and light tan and metallic cord. At front of hat is very short brim decorated with brown grosgrain ribbon forming overlapping sections as the ends of a bow. Hat is lined in a red/coral fabric. There are no maker or designer labels or marks in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39111/
Cloche
Cloche of black velour. The domed crown is of "crumpled" black velour encircled at the base by a band of silver ribbon. The narrow brim is curled up at the edge and sides, and is lined with a multicolored brocade with metallic threads as accents. On right side of hat, near base of crown, is a large pompom of black feathers. Set near the pompom is a pin of black composition/plastic and silvered metal in the form of a hook (partly missing?). The crown of the hat is lined with greyish silk embroidered in gold. Maker's and Retailer's label embroidered inside crown: "Paris New York / Jaccard / Hats / Made expressly for / Neiman-Marcus Co. / Dallas" Paper label stapled to lining: "Sanger Bros. / Dallas, - Texas / 226-1 / 10-26 / $35.00 / 30.00" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39124/
Evening Dress
Evening dress of embroidered silk organza with pink silk acetate lining and belt; square neckline; sleeveless with rhinestone embellished velvet straps attached by rhinestone snaps in front and back; velvet trim; three tiers with pink floral embroidery; pink velvet belt embellished with rhinestones and a velvet flower digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30052/
Gloves
Pair of gloves. Ivory kid leather gloves with brown and gray embroidery. Hands have inside seaming; 3 darts on top; darts highlighted by rows of gray chain-stitching with ivory dots woven in; wrists have sewn on cuffs; cuffs feature strip of pale off white leather; embellished with geometric and circle embroidery in brown thread; snap under wrist creates keyhole underneath as well. Stamped inside in purple ink: "Made in Belgium / Real Kid". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38132/
Gloves
Pair of gloves of ivory colored leather. On back of each glove is a stitched swirl design of 5 ribs. The gloves widen to end with piped hems, and extend to about mid-forearm. Appears to be a youth size. Stamped inside gloves: A) "ARIS" logo in hemisphere; "U.S. Pat. / Aug. 22'22"; and with various stamped numbers inside the glove for sewing and matching pieces. B) "5 3/4"; "U.S. Pat. / Sept 19'22 / Made in Germany"; and with various stamped numbers inside the glove for sewing and matching pieces. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87118/
Hat
Hat of burnt orange/rust colored straw. The domed crown is of finely woven burnt orange/rust colored straw with secondary horizontal bands of slightly larger strands woven into the base material. At its base, the crown curves in, under, down and out, creating a "mushroom" effect, with the main part of the crown as the "cap", and a smaller section of "stalk" below. The oval brim is of the same woven straw, and set off-center to the crown, creating a much wider brim at sides and back, and a smaller brim in front. The edge of the brim is edged in coarl colored silk. The hat is unlined. There are no labels or tags in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39104/
Cloche
Cloche hat of burnt sienna-colored straw. The high domed crown of woven straw is decorated with flowers and leaves formed by embroidering and couching, but using fine brown and cream cloth rather than thread. The brown fabric flowers have beaded centers. The very narrow brim of matching straw is turned up at front, and edged with brown fabric and bound with dark golden yellow threads. The hat is lined in fine black cloth, through which can be seen the inner stitching of the "embroidery". There are no designer, maker, or retailer labels in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39115/
Cloche
Cloche hat of beige straw. The high, domed crown is created of fine beige straw which has been crocheted. At the base of the crown is a wide band of beige grosgrain ribbon edged with a very thin ribbon band, with a finely pleated section to one side. The cloche has a small brim, mostly down-turned. Over the entire crown and brim is sewn thin "ribbon" bands in a different type and shade of straw, forming several large leaf forms and filling the rest of the space with scrolling decoration. The interiors of the leaf forms are hand-painted in blue, purple, brown and green. The interior of the crown is lined in a tan/copper fabric, and the underside of the brim is lined in a cream fabric. There are no labels in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39116/
Cloche
Cloche of beige silk. The domed brim is of beige silk top-stitched and quilted to a base of grayish felt. The stitching is in the form of repeated and spiraling lines. At base of crown is wide band of brown grosgrain ribbon with bow at front. The brim is of the same material as crown, is shallow, and turns downward. It frames the face, with triangular extensions at sides. Hat is unlined. There are no labels or tags in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39121/
Cloche
Cloche hat of beige felt. The high, domed crown is of dark beige/brownish felt, pulled and gathered to create texture at top back. The brim, of the same felt, is narrow, curving down at sides and up at back. Around the base of the crown is a wide band of brown grosgrain ribbon, which passes through slots in the upturned back section of the brim. At the side of the hat, the ribbon is gathered slightly, and has three segments that extend forward around the crown, fanning upwards to partly cover the front of the hat. The hat is lined in a slightly iridescent bronze fabric. In crown of hat is ornate embroidered label consisting of an oval surmounted by a device with triple ostrich plumes; small coats of arms at the ends of the oval, and the text " Imported / Amhat / Chiffon Felt", with inscription below: "Reg. U.S. Patent Office". Attached inside base of crown is original paper tag: "Berlin / Amhat / New York" and "Triste / Imported / Chiffon Felt". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39064/
Cloche
Cloche-type hat of blue-green velvet. An early example of the cloche hat, it has a narrow up-turned brim. All around the crown is floral decoration carried out in beading, applique, and embroidery. Also with thin lines of gold thread sewn throughout. The edges of the brim are similarly decorated. Remains of silk lining. Original cataloging indicates the had had a Sanger Bros., Dallas, price tag inside marked $35, on sale for $30. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30068/
Coat
Coat of floral brocade and blue velvet. The mid-length wrap coat is made of Jacquard woven silk(?)in a pattern of flowers in blues, taupe, and browns on a dark brown ground, with metallic gold stitching throughout. The raglan sleeves and the collar are edged in wide bands of gathered ruched aqua blue/green velvet. Center front opening with no closures. The coat is lined in aqua blue/green velvet. No labels in garment. Owned by Mrs. Carlton L. Yager of California, aunt of the donor, who called it her "Opera Coat". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30232/
Hat
Hat of lavender horsehair overlaid with lace and velvet. The daytime hat has a high, domed crown of braided/woven horsehair. Around the sides of the crown is a band of pale lavender velvet overlaid with a band of dark blue velvet, which itself is partly overlaid by pale blue lace. Around the back of the crown is a band of pale blue velvet, a section of which is also at the base of the crown at the front of the hat. The brim is of the same horsehair, and stitched up in back to create the effect of having the brim extend around sides and front, but not the back. The brim is overlaid with lace as the crown. At left side of hat, along base of crown, is a small embellishment consisting of two tubular beads and three circular beads set with rhinestones. The hat is lined in blue satin. Retailer's(?) paper label attached inside crown at back: "Sanger Bros. / Dallas - Texas", with original price of $20.00. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39151/
Hat
Hat of ecru lace and black horsehair. The high, slightly domed crown is formed of ecru lace, with a black satin ribbon bow to side, and a black satin band around the base of the crown, partly obscured by the lace. The wide, undulating black horsehair brim is oval, wider to sides than front to back. Inside of crown originally lined with fine, transparent black tulle, remains of which form an inner hatband at inside base of crown. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Paris / della Donna / New York". Intended for afternoon wear. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39150/
Hat
Hat of sienna/reddish silk taffeta. Styled somewhat as a cloche, the cylindrical crown is "collapsed", creating the effect that it has been partly flattened, with horizontal creasing. Top of crown is flat. Around the sides is horizontal bands of stitching in gold metallic thread. Appliqued to the front and sides of the hat are velvet blossoms and leaves in greens, rust reds/oranges, etc. At base of crown is a band of rubbed rust red/orange. The narrow brim is lined in same rust red/orange velvet, and is turned up at back allowing it to be seen. The crown is lined in a golden orange satin fabric. No labels in item. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39123/
Hat
Hat of brown straw. Based on a boater, the hat has a crown of woven brown straw, somewhat domed, and somewhat "mushroom shaped", extending out over the sides of the crown. Around the base of the crown is a band of brown and tan silk ribbon, which has been unraveled. To one side of the crown is affixed a large pink/patterned silk crepe flower. The wide brim curls slightly at edge, and is trimmed at edge with the same unraveled ribbon. The crown is partly lined in black fabric with drawstring closure at top to adjust fit. There are no labels or tags in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39238/
Hat
Hat of silver metallic mesh cloth. The hat is formed as a pillbox-style turban. The cylindrical crown has a flattened top, and two long trailing bands hanging from the back. The bands are designed to wrap around the head, and clasp with integral rhinestone-set buckles. The hat is unlined. There are no labels or tags in the hat. Probably from France. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39070/
Hat
Cloche hat of blue-green velvet. An early example of the cloche hat, it has a narrow up-turned brim. All around the crown is floral decoration carried out in beading, applique, and embroidery. Also with thin lines of gold thread sewn throughout. The edges of the brim are similarly decorated. Remains of silk lining. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39148/
Cloche
Cloche hat of straw. The high, domed straw is crown of sienna-red braid, with a band of solid reddish-pink silk around the base. Below the silk band is multi-colored ruched trim extending less than 1/4" from the band. Below the trim is a brim covered by sienna grosgrain ribbon, extending very slightly in front and disappearing in back. The hat is lined in a metallic bronze fabric. No designer's or retailer's labels, but hat does retain original price tag inside crown. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39113/
Cloche
Cloche of rose straw. The high, rounded crown is of finely braided rose/pink colored straw. At one side is an applique in green, beige, peach, and brown of a stylized floral design in silk taffeta with colored straw detailing and outlines. Around the base of the crown is a segment of rose satin quilted with lines of copper and tan straw, turned up at front to form a brim and turned downwards at back. The hat is lined in an iridescent red satin. There are no labels in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39120/
Evening Shoes
Pair of cream satin sling-back evening shoes with leather embellishments. The shoes, designed with rounded toes, are in a modified D'Orsay pump style, with sides cut back. Plain cream satin uppers are edged with wide bands/stripes of gold and silver metallic leather. 2" high heel, slightly set-in, tapering slightly to base. Stamped inside: "Saks / Fifth Avenue" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114894/
Headband
Headband of black felt. The hat is designed to fit across the top of the head, coming to a rounded point on left side, and with an enlarged circular end on the left which sits higher on the head. The headband is "peaked" along the length, adding height to wearer. Designer's label sewn inside: "Marcelle Rousseau / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277141/
Cloche
Cloche hat of lace and velvet. The deep, domed crown is of peach satin (?) overlaid with a silver metallic lace. At the front of the crown are applied leaf shapes of dark pink velvet that form a fan-motif. The lowest leaves on each side extend to become a shallow brim for the hat, also formed of the dark pink velvet. The leaves and the brim are quilted with metallic silver stitching. The hat is lined in pink satin(?). Label sewn inside crown: "Pittsburgh / Character Hats / New York / Trade Mark Reg. / U.S. Pat. Office" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39174/
Cloche
Cloche hat of tan straw. The high, domed crown is of woven tan straw in a spiraling pattern. On either side of the crown is an applique in blue, pink/gray, and black felt of an arc or half-circle. On one side, the arc points up, on the other side it points down. Around the base of the crown is a narrow band of black felt. The brim is also of woven straw, upturned at sides and edged with black felt. The hat is lined in a slightly iridescent bronze/gold fabric, now very shattered. Inside the crown is stitched an ornate label, with a view of two women playing tennis and the inscription: "Berkeley / Made in / California". A small arrow and the word "Front" indicates the front of the hat. Attached to an inner seam of the lining is size label "22". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39067/
Cloche
Cloche of chocolate brown felt. The hat has a domed crown of brown felt to which is applied segments of sienna red/brown velvet as appliques, forming draping at sides. Unlined, with inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39065/
Crocheted Cap
Crocheted cap of brown cotton yarn styled as a pillbox. The hemispherical crown is flat at top and slopes to base. The hat has no brim and is unlined. Stuck through the sides of the crown are two brass hatpins formed as over-sized hairpins. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114817/
Evening Coat
Evening coat of black and gold brocade in a large scale tropical motif. The wrap-style coat has a shawl collar of red fox fur with kimono style sleeves trimmed in fox. The coat is fully lined in gold silk velvet. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29997/
Handbag
Large Handbag. Rectangular gilt frame with ball/snap closure set with cabochon green stones. Body of bag formed of red, silver, grey, and black beads in a mosaic/Turkish carpet pattern. Bottom of bag with beaded fringe matching body of bag. Lined in pale peach satin with one pocket and attached small coin purse. Sewn into lining is woven tag "Made In France"; Marked on frame "Made In France". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30017/
Hat
Hat of black felt. The hat, for day wear, has a domed black felt crown. On either side of the crown is a large black velvet bow with trailing ribbons. The black felt brim is set off-center, providing for more brim at front of hat and less at back. The front of the brim curves up, and is faced in black velvet. The front half of the hat has a black veil with scattered "dots" in the netting. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon around the inside lower edge of the crown. A small stitched star on the inner hatband indicates the front of the hat. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Custom Made". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39175/