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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Decade: 1950-1959
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of cream satin. The slightly domed crown of the hat is of cream satin, inset within a thick ring of the same fabric which forms the sides of the crown. Applied to the sides of the crown are black velvet ribbon semi-bows which form "T" shapes, set alternately upright and inverted. The hat is lined in golden tan fabric, and has a white grosgrain ribbon inner hatband around the inside base of the crown. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Christian Dior New York Inc.". Retailer's label sewn to inside lining of crown: "Neiman-Marcus / Made to Order". Accompanied by a single short hatpin with faux pearl head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39201/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of magenta satin. Sides of crown with horizontally pleated "fans" or waves of self material. At front of hat is pewter-toned metal and rhinestone ornament with pink feather spray behind. Ornament is square shaped with large, red faceted stone and four small, red faceted stones in each corner of the square. Around crown is fine magenta netting/veiling. Lined in black. Retailer's label inside crown: "Neiman-Marcus" Size label: "22". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276986/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black silk linen. Four pleats encircle 2 1/2" deep crown. Lined in cream linen. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Custom Made" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305344/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox-style hat of faux(?) purple felted fur. The cylindrical crown has horizontal "waist" at mid-point, and a flat top. Surmounting hat is a cone-shaped ornament formed of layers of rhinestone set discs, of "amethyst" in two shades, "aquamarines", "diamonds", and a surmounting "amethyst". Lined in purple satin with dark purple grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277161/
Pumps
Pair of striped satin pumps. Shoes of pintucked satin in blues, greens, cream, pinks, purples, etc., with stripes running across vamp, and vertically up the sides and upper part of heel, and horizontally across the spike. Each shoe marked inside vamp: "7AA A2649". Stamped on left shoe: "Herbert Levine"; Stamped on right shoe: "Neiman-Marcus". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114758/
Pumps
Pair of metallic leather pumps. Shoes of textured pink or rose metallic hue with silver undertones, edged in black velvet on vamp and around peep-toe. Slingback, fastened by black rhinestone-accented buckles. 3 1/4" spike/stiletto heels covered in the same leather. Each shoe marked inside vamp: "4 1/2 M 4311-SLW / 26080". Stamped on left shoe: "Herbert Levine / Fine Shoes"; Stamped on right shoe: "Neiman-Marcus". Stamped on both "Hand / Lasted". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30157/
Pumps
Pair of pumps of pale green metallic lamé. The shoes are designed with pointed toes which are squared-off at the tip, and a squared vamp. The stiletto heels are covered in same fabric, and flare slightly to base. Maker's label stamped inside: "Herbert Levine" Retailer's label stamped inside: "Neiman Marcus" Handwritten inside: "6 AAA 7913-52D / 25269" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114837/
Pumps
Pair of ladies' red leather Mary Jane style pumps. Designed with rounded toes and closed by a low and thin Mary Jane strap and buckle just above the vamp. Sole of natural black leather with black wooden heel. Medium-height broad heel with a slight curve at the back, broadening to align with the heel seat and a slightly concave straight front, similar to a Cuban heel. Stamped on the shank inside left shoe in gilt: "Neiman-Marcus" Stamped on the shank inside right shoe in gilt: "Best shoes you can buy are the best buy! / Delman / De Luxe" Stamped on the heel inside both shoes in gilt: Delman Logo (Image of a woman at a shoe fitting with the description: Delman / New York / Chicago / London / Paris) Handwritten inside shoe: "C81092 / 5223-6aw / 6aa / Petti" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86973/
Shirt
Shirt of red rayon, designed as a kimono. Black band at front opening and around neckline, with white Japanese characters printed on upper section at front. The kimono has a scene of a procession by children in traditional Japanese clothing, one on horseback. At upper back is a circular printed Mon in blue and white of a trefoil leaf form. Unlined. May be a child's kimono rather than a youth's shirt. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277036/
Shirt
Child's shirt of pink rayon. Designed as a kimono, the shirt has a black band at center front opening which continues along neckline. The body of the garment is printed with multi-colored views of Japanese temples and landscapes. Maker's label inside: "Crown / Made in Japan" Size label: "M / Made in / " [cut off] This may be a child's kimono for the tourist market, rather than a youth's shirt. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277086/
Shoes
Pair of shoes of polished beige leather. Designed in a modified Oxford style, the shoes have a rounded toe, and rows of decorative holes punched across vamp and around edge of upper, between brown stitching. A strap crosses at ankle to secure shoes to wearer's foot. High stacked heel of dark brown tapers slightly to base. Partly illegible stamp on underside of shoe, includes "Made in Italy". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc115001/
Skirt Suit
Navy blue two-piece skirt suit of wool consisting of: A. Fitted jacket with Peter Pan collar. Tab at top of jacket under neck extends two inches past center and buttons on left side with two round buttons. Jacket center opening has one hook at center and one button at waist. Full-length sleeves made in one piece with jacket front and back. Gusset under arm for ease of movement. Right sleeve is decorated with blue and grey stripe pattern which extends up sleeve and across onto tab. Vertical stripe starts from back waist and runs down front, forming plaid at shoulder and is gathered into a narrow band at waist. Stripe continues to hem of jacket and has fold of striped fabric coming from under band to form scarf-like effect. Back is made in 6 sections with plaid design at shoulder and stripes running horizontally and vertically and ending before the absolute center. Band at waist is continued on back right, but does not reach jacket center. Inside lined with blue silk. Designer's label at center back inside neck: "Adrian / Original" Retailer's label along left inside flap of opening: "The Fashion / Ben Wolfman Inc. / Houston" Label for original owner(?): "TJ McBryde" B: Blue straight skirt with hook and snap closure at left side of waistband and zipper fly. Grey stripe pattern starts at hip area and continues around skirt, not meeting at back center. Vertical stripes fall from right side, forming plaid at intersection of other stripe, and continues to hem. Front center has kick pleat. Skirt does not have label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283768/
Skirt Suit
Two-piece gray faille moire wool and nylon suit. Jacket is long, with wide notched collar, is double breasted, has bound button holes, and buttons below waist. It has a sculptural double-breasted front panel, that maintains a vertical linear center front, rounded shape visually flanks stomach area. The skirt is straight; slightly below knee length. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30019/
Sling-Back Pumps
Pair of sling-back pumps of multicolored (tan, gray, red) print fabric. The shoes are designed with pointed toes, the uppers cut away at sides and back, and with a long strap that secures from sides of toebox, back to sides of heel, and with another strap attaching to the side straps at about the ankle and passing behind the heel. Stiletto heel is covered with the same fabric. On the toebox of the shoe are applied simulated colored gemstones/rhinestones of two sizes. Designer's label: "Herbert Levine" Retailer's label: "Neiman Marcus" Handwritten inside: "6 1/2 M 9814.2LI / 35124" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277138/
Sling-Back Pumps
Pair of sling-back pumps of black patent leather. The shoes are designed with a rounded, open toe, the uppers also cut away at heel. The throat of the toebox with band of leaf-shaped openwork/cutouts in groups of three. Wide sling-back strap, which secures with rectangular buckle. Thick "stiletto" style heel, covered in same leather. Designer's label: "Palter De Liso Inc. / New York City"; and "Palter De Liso / Capri / Last" Retailer's label: "Neiman Marcus Co. Dallas / Fenwyn / Trade Marl Reg'd" Handwritten inside: "6 1/2 B / 524970 / 1510-4BE" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87036/
Terno
Traditional Philippine terno ensemble of gold silk and mesh made from rengue, a stiff pineapple fiber material. A) Skirt (Saya) of stiffened gold silk with black lined embroidered circles and wavy black ribbon embellishment. Full-length, with long rectangular train in back. B) Top (camisa) of mesh pineapple fiber. Cropped-length, with wide, full, elbow-length sleeves gathered at armholes. Sleeves with circular embellishments. C) Chemise of pale orange rayon with cutwork and machine embroidery hem and neckline. Sleeveless, full-length. D) Scarf/fichu (alampay) or shawl (Panuelo) of mesh pineapple fiber with circular embellishments. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277017/
Toque
Toque of black satin and mink. The crown of the hat is formed as a cylinder of heavy black satin, with slightly domed flat top. Around crown is wide band of black mink, almost as wide as the hat is tall. A small band of black satin is visible below mink band, and a small bow of heavy black satin is affixed at center front. Hat is lined in black satin, with inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband, and two small attached plastic combs to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label at inside hatband: "Styled by / Coralie" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501345/
Turban
Turban style hat of pale pink velvet with braided pink velvet around edge. Two iridescent rhinestone and faceted jewel pins trim front. Lined in pink net. Two combs at sides for securing hat to wearer's head. Maker's label on inside back of hat: "An Original / Mr. Stanley / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286799/
Turban
Turban of pleated brown wool jersey. The high-crowned turban is composed of pleated concentric bands of fabric. The hat is lined in mesh covered with cream/pale yellow silk, and with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. A stitched mark on headband shows front of hat, and small applied ribbon bow shows back. Designer's label inside crown: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York". Label is large, almost reaching from headband to headband across inside of crown. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39198/
Bridge Hat
Bridge hat of navy blue straw. The cylindrical crown has a domed top section, and is encircled at the base by a wide band of off-white grosgrain ribbon, with two self bows at front left and right. On front section of the band are applied three applique "club" shapes of navy blue and off-white. A fourth applique is set on the front of the brim. The brim is a four-lobed quatrafoil, emulating a club shape, the back lobe truncated somewhat. The outer edge of the brim is rolled under. Underside of brim lined with off-white grosgrain fabric, inside of crown lined with black fabric, and with an inner off-white grosgrain ribbon hatband. Label: "Made to Order Hat / Bergdorf / Goodman / Fifth Ave. at 58th St" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330369/
Coat
Daytime coat of beige linen. Single breasted with three cream colored, circular, plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Long, raglan sleeves with 4" cuffs. Notched collar. Street length. Side slit pockets. Lined in black silk. Designer's label at inside right seam of lining under arm hole: "Christian Dior / Paris / Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc499047/
Dress
Red silk taffeta dress with print of white line/dashes. A) Cocktail dress of red silk taffeta print. The print is of short white lines/dashes, scattered over the entire garment. Short sleeves, collar with rounded "points". Dropped waist, with a wide panel of same fabric with vertical stitching between bodice and skirt. "Tiered" skirt, with a flounce of same material gathered at bottom of dropped waist and continuing to about knee-level. Skirt gathered at dropped waist, under the flounce. Center front opening with 5 small circular self-covered buttons. Zipper at left side from under arm to dropped waist. Unlined. Inner ivory grosgrain belt/petersham with single hook and eye at left side. Seam where flounce joins skirt reinforced on interior with horsehair band. Combined designer's/retailer's label sewn in skirt: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Thin belt of cream leather covered in matching fabric. Rectangular buckle covered in same fabric. No marks on belt. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330371/
Hat
Hat of pea green straw. Formed of a coil of tightly braided straw, the hat has a high domed crown and brim that slopes slightly downwards. The base of the brim is encircled by a wide band of artificial white flowers, which almost covers the brim. The edge of the brim is embellished with bands of the same straw braid, sewn across the edge. The hat is unlined, with inner green grosgrain ribbon hatband and elastic cord to help secure to wearer's head. Label inside: "Regalle" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330488/
Hat
Hat of pale pink velvet with pink roses and carnations. The flat-topped, cylindrical crown is encircled with artificial pink roses and carnations, totally covering the sides of the crown. The wide brim slopes down steeply. The hat is lined in a pale pink satin, the brim is lined with the same pale pink velvet. The hat has an inner pink grosgrain ribbon hatband. Label inside: "Regalle" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330499/
Hat
Hat of olive green fur felt and peach and gold ostrich feathers. The domed crown is encircled by a "cloud" of peach and yellow gold ostrich feathers, which almost totally cover the narrow brim, which is edged in a pale ocher band. The brim is faced in concentric circles: outer pale ocher band, olive green fur felt band, inner band of pale ocher felt. Crown is unlined, with inner green grosgrain ribbon hatband, and with elastic cord to help secure hat to wearer's head. Label inside: "Regalle" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330402/
Hat
Hat of silk faille. The body of the hat is made of woven straw, covered with beige/off-white silk faille. The shallow, domed crown is made in two parts - the upper shallow dome, and a collar into which the upper crown is inset. The upper edge of the collar is pipped in black. The shallow sloping brim is similarly constructed, with an inner band and then outer section with a black pipped edge between the sections. The crown is unlined, revealing the woven straw. The brim segments are lined in the same faille of the outside of the hat. Around the inside of the crown is an inner hatband of cream grosgrain ribbon, two which is attached a black elasticized cord to secure the hat to wearer's head. A small red/brown stitch on the inner hatband indicates the front of the hat. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Christian Dior / Paris / Made in / France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39136/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of red velvet with red feather trim and lace interior lining. Designers Label: "Amy / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277115/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of paisley velveteen. The circular, domed hat is made of a velveteen fabric with printed paisley pattern in shades of green, red, brown, purple, cream, etc. At top of hat is a ball of the same materials. The entire hat and ball have added sewn-on colored rhinestones scattered throughout, and small gold beads. Lined in black cloth, with black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Sewn into inner hatband is retailer's label: "Innes / Wichita" Purchased at the Innes store, Wichita, Kansas. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30184/
Skirt Suit
Ecru worsted wool two-piece suit. A: Jacket with center front opening with four beige plastic buttons with bound button holes, first two spread apart by 2" next two spread apart by 10". Collared. Motif of concentric arced inserts, 1.175" wide each, starting from shoulder point, arcing down past second button. This upside down arc repeats on the back with a rainbow meeting the shoulder's center. On front, two more arc inserts motif repeat, with the rainbow arc stretching over the smaller reversed arc between the sections of buttons. One-piece set in sleeves with double elbow darts. Lined in beige silk faille. Retailer's label at center back collar: "Neiman-Marcus" Designer's Label at front right jacket lining: "Adrian / Original" B: Unlined A-line skirt of same fabric with lapped zipper covered by triangle pointed waistband tip on the left side. Waistband 1 3/8" wide. Four darts total, two in front, two in back. Pinked edge to seam allowances. Hem tape attached to 3" wide hem edge with machine stitch, tape hand based to inside of skirt with blind hem (slip stitch) stitch. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286913/
Breton Hat
Breton hat of black fur felt. The domed crown is encircled at base by a wide band of black grosgrain ribbon, with flat bow at back. The wide brim extends outwards, then curves up sharply, to about 1/3 of height of crown. The brim is faced/lined with same black fur felt. Crown is unlined, with inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Manufacturer's stamp inside crown: "20 % / Mohair / MAHARA / 70% Wool / Henry Pollak Inc / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402532/
Calotte
Red velvet calotte. Hat styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), or modified Juliet cap, with low domed crown, straight across back edge, rounded at sides, and with scalloped edge at front. Along lower edge at sides and front is double strand of black silk(?) braided rope, with matching tassels hanging between lobes of scallops. Lined in a woven gold lamé-type material. Designer's label sewn inside: "Edna Mye / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402499/
Coat Dress
Coat dress of brown silk faille in "Ottoman" style. Knee or street length, with turndown collar and slight V neckline. Darts at bust for fit. Four button closures at center front with bound buttonholes, two above and two below waist/belt. Hook and eyes at waistline. Long sleeves with rolled cuffs and underarm gussets. In-seam pockets at sides. Flared skirt, pleated in back. Simulated "shirtwaist" decoration at front of skirt. Unlined. Designer's label at inside back collar: "Made in / France"; "Autumne-Hiver 1952 / Christian Dior / Paris"; stamped: "2????" [mostly illegible], on label With matching belt of brown suede. Self-covered buckle of narrow, vertical rectangles secures with hook and bar closure; 1-1/4" wide. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501300/
Cocktail Dress
Cocktail dress. The bodice of the dress is of sheer black wool, with a Peter Pan style collar and short sleeves which are shirred at the ends. There is a narrow black satin ribbon at waist where the bodice meets the skirt. The skirt is composed of three layers. The innermost layer is of thick black chiffon, the middle layer is thin black chiffon/crepe. The outer layer is of panels of black and white printed hounds tooth/plaid chiffon, the panels arranged vertically and slit from 5" below waistline to hemline. The panels are gathered/pleated into the waistband. At the top of each slit is an applied black satin bow, forming a row of bows around the hip-line of the skirt. Each panel has side borders of black satin ribbon. The dress has a center-back zipper from neckline to below hips, with a single hook-and-eye at top of collar. There is an inner black grosgrain ribbon waistband, with hook-and-eye closure. The bodice is lined in sheer black material. Designer's label inside skirt: "Galanos" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30072/
Cocktail Ensemble - Dress and Jacket
Cocktail ensemble of silver (pale lavender?) heavy faille moire consisting of: A) Cocktail dress. 3/4 length. Sleeveless with thin straps. Shallow V-neck. Natural waist with a bias cut, 1-1/4" set-in waistband between skirt and bodice trimmed with a center, non-functioning gray plastic button. Fitted bust with gores at bust and under-arm. Inverted pleats at front and back center. Center back zipper closure with hook & eye closure at base of bodice. Cream satin lining in bust which descends to become sheath inside skirt. Skirt lined with net. Designer's label at inside center bust: "Made in France / Autumne-Hiver 1952 / Christian Dior / Paris" Stamped "20445" on label. Handwritten label behind designer's label: "250516" B) Matching bolero jacket. Cropped to waist, long sleeves. No collar. Slight V at top of neckline, with deeper "inset" V at bottom. Center front opening with 3 circular gray buttons at base of jacket. Lined in cream silk matching lining of dress. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Made in France / Autumne-Hiver 1952 / Christian Dior / Paris" Stamped "20446" on label. Handwritten label behind designer's label: "250517" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501348/
Day Dress
Day dress of gray/white print silk taffeta. Street- or tea-length, of paper silk taffeta printed with a dense design of varying sizes of small white polka dots on a gray ground. V-neckline, with bow of self just below point. 3/4 length dolman sleeves. Full skirt, cut for crinoline. Center back zipper. Designer's label: "Traina-Norell / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330446/
Dress
Halter-style dress of black wool. V-neck, very low back, sleeveless, buttons up back. Straight skirt with drapery over hips and in front. Country of Origin Label: " Made in France " located on front neckline at right center. Designers Label at inside left on construction detail: " Made in France / Automne - Hiver 1952 / Christian Dior / Paris " digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114907/
Dress
Dress of toast brown colored linen. A) Jacket. Waist-length box jacket, with modified mandarin collar, asymmetrical front opening/closure beginning with a button just below center throat, then curving to left, and then down on left front, with a total of five large circular ivory-colored plastic buttons, and a single hidden snap at upper right. Sleeveless. Single patch pocket at right side. Neckline, opening, and top edge of pocket edged with off-white band. Lined in cream cotton(?). No label in jacket. B) Skirt. Street-length, A-line, with darts to the wide waistband. Left fastening, with three hooks and loops at waistband and zipper below. Unlined. Designer's label: "Traina-Norell / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330374/
Dress
Dress of cream silk faille with printed red and green design of running roses. A) Daytime shirtwaist dress of cream silk faille. Peter Pan collar with ties, short slightly puffed "baby doll" sleeve. Pleated bodice. Center front opening with 6 small circular domed buttons covered in cream fabric. Full A-line skirt, below-knee length, gathered/pleated at waistband. Entire dress with thin vertical printed bands of pink and green running roses. Inner skirt of heavy tulle/net with horizontal bands of horsehair stiffening. Size 12 Combined Retailer's / Designer's label inside inner skirt: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina Norell" B) Belt of cream textured leather covered with matching fabric. Square belt buckle covered in cream fabric. Belt stamped on reverse "28 1/2". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330458/
Dress
Halter-style dress of black wool. Below-knee-length, with wide strap running from front up and behind neck. Straight neckline at front, with very low rounded edge at back - almost to mid-back. Center front with draped effect at waist, appearing "pulled" from hips, and with central front drape. 2 large pleats from waist at back. Center back opening with 5 self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes, supplemented with hook & eye at top and two hook & eyes at waist, and with zipper under edge of pleat at right of center back. Inner bodice of black net has boning and closes at center back with hook & eyes. Skirt lined in black silk. Country of Origin Label: "Made in France" located on front neckline at right center. Designer's Label at inside left on construction detail: "Made in France / Automne - Hiver 1952 / Christian Dior / Paris" and stamped "20951". Has handwritten style number tag beneath designer's label (mostly illegible): "50938" Retailer's label at back seam of skirt: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503799/
Hat
Hat of white straw trimmed with chiffon, net and a flower. The hat formed as a modified pillbox, with cylindrical white straw crown, very slightly domed. Around the crown is a wide band of ruched pink chiffon overlaid by white netting/veiling. At front is a large artificial silk flower. The narrow straw brim is undulating and rolled. Inside crown is inner red grosgrain ribbon hatband. Accompanied by one short hatpin with simulated pearl head. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Styled by / Coralie". Sewn to the back of the designer's label is a United Hatters, Cap and Millinery Workers Union label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38054/
Hat
Hat of natural colored braided straw. The hat is formed of a flat oval of braided straw, turned up at back, trimmed with a small bouquet of red and blue silk flowers. At the back of the hat, on the segment that is turned up, is applied a black velvet ribbon bow. Extending to either side from the center, beneath the flowers, are black velvet ribbons to tie the hat under the wearer's chin. Designer's label on underside of hat: "Sandy Dallas" Worn by Frances Virginia Parramore Thinnes in 1952 at an event in Abilene, Texas. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39244/
Hat
Hat of multi-colored straw. Based on a beret, the hat consists of a crown of finely woven straw in bands of dark blue, red, white, and dark blue. The crown is formed as a flattened sphere, surmounted by a small sphere of dark blue velvet. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of dark blue/black grosgrain ribbon around the inside base of the crown. Brand label sewn to inner hatband: "Lee Bury / Hats". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39169/
Hatlet
Hatlet of navy blue wool with embroidery and mirrors. Base of hatlet formed of an irregularly-shaped skullcap of dark navy blue wool decorated with embroidered lines, bands, etc. in red, yellow, and white. Over the surface of the fabric are small 1.5 cm. diameter mirrors in pink and red stitched borders. All edges are trimmed in gray/purple beads. Surmounting the hatlet are three bows of the same materials, and the whole is overlaid with fine dark blue veiling. Hatlet is lined in dark blue mesh and edged underneath with dark blue grosgrain ribbon. Attached to either side is a small plastic comb to secure the hatlet to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Gift of John C. Murphy, through the Chicago Historical Society. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38071/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of knit material with embroidery and mirrors. The black fabric of the hat is covered with yellow embroidered star shapes and small circular mirrors ca. 1.5 cm. in diameter bordered by red thread embroidery/crochet. Cylindrical crown formed as slightly "crushed", folding in in some areas and bulging out in others, and with gently scalloped lower edge. Top is generally flat, with an applied tear-drop shaped section of the same material, with trailing "ribbons" of same material extending off of back of hat. The edge of the applied panel and the lower edge of the crown are edged with alternating red and black beads, with two strands and two loops of the same beading descending from the between the "ribbons" at top. The inside of the crown is lined in red mesh and edged with red grosgrain ribbon. There are two plastic combs, one at either side, to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside crown: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago" Gift of Mr. John C. Murphy, through the Chicago Historical Society. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38068/
Calotte
Calotte of beige fabric, heavily beaded. The calotte (also spelled "calot") is constructed with a low, domed crown of stiffened net and beige fabric, with areas that extend down at sides and back. The whole is covered with clear sequins, yellow rhinestones, bugle beads, small metal strips, etc. The hat has an inner peach/beige grosgrain ribbon hatband, and four small metal loops sewn in to use to attach to wearer's head with bobby pins. Designer's label: "Gilbert Orcel / 5 Rue de Cirque Paris (8º)" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286780/
Calotte
Calotte of off-white satin. The calotte (also spelled "calot") has a domed crown covered with horizontally pleated off-white satin, and comes to points at temples. On right point is a large flower-like puff of same material. Hat is unlined, allowing stiffened white net under-structure to be seen. Hat has inner off-white grosgrain hatband and a small comb to help secure it to wearer's head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402530/
Calotte
Calotte of brown straw. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat has a teardrop shaped crown of dark brown straw, with the "point" of the teardrop extending down the right side of the wearer's head. The edge of the crown is trimmed with two bands of grosgrain ribbon, cream and brown, which have been tightly pleated and arranged to simulate a herringbone pattern. At the right side the ribbons form two simulated plumes. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of dark brown grosgrain ribbon. A small cream stitch on the hatband indicates the front of the hat. Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus" The hat is accompanied by a single short hatpin, the head of which is covered with dark brown grosgrain ribbon matching that of the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39189/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of black cabochons and bugle beads. Black velvet piping at edges. Lined in black netting. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277099/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of black satin. Bow of black satin as trim. Net at back of hat. Hatpin with head covered in matching satin. Lined. Comb at inside front of hat for securing hat to wearer's head. Retailer's label: "A. Harris & Co. / Dallas" Union/size label to right of retailer's label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277085/
Cocktail Dress
Cocktail dress of fuschia (cranberry) silk with black feather print; bodice has round neckline and three-quarter length sleeves; skirt is knee-length and very full, gathered at waist and covered by a short piece of self fabric. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30095/