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Purse
Purse of multicolored Bargello needlepoint. The envelope-style purse is covered in silk embroidery in greens, blues, reds, pinks, black, etc., in the Florentine Bargello, edged in green wool. On one side, under flap, is rectangular section with monogram FH and date 1775 worked in embroidery. Opens to reveal 2 separate compartments, lined in green homespun wool. Silk embroidery is disintegrating to reveal canvas ground.
Child's Ensemble
Child's dress ensemble of tan cotton with green and red/orange floral print consisting of: A) Skirt. Full length; pleated. One-inch waistband of muslin. Right side slit pocket. Center back opening; closures missing. Bottom of inside hem lined in brown glazed cotton; balance of skirt unlined. B) Bodice. Fitted with wide neckline; dropped shoulders. Neckline is trimmed with double row of fluted fabric of self. Short, puffed sleeves with caps trimmed with fluted fabric of same. V-shaped pleats in front. Center back opening closes with 9 hook & eyes. Lined in muslin. C) Fichu. Triangular panels of decreasing size applied to look like pleats. Four-inch epaulets of same with self-covered buttons at ends. Seven self-covered buttons down center back seam with evidence of three missing buttons. Lined in brown glazed cotton.
Christening Gown
Christening gown of white cotton muslin. Hand made and embroidered. Gathered waist trimmed in laisse anglais. Rounded neckline with V insert of eyelet lace. Eyelet trim at wrists, neck and hem. Scalloped insert panel down front trimmed in tatted eyelet with floral embroidery and six tiers of tatted eyelet. Center back opening is pleated with three covered buttons and drawstring at waist.
Mitts
Pair of black cotton lace mitts. The wrist-length fingerless gloves are of hand-crocheted lace, in a wide mesh. Slight frill at wrist, and separate thumb. A narrow black ribbon is threaded through the cuff, one ribbon lacking.
Wool hat
Hat of off-white wool yarn and beads. Hat is based on a fanchon style, consisting of a knitted, somewhat diamond-shaped piece to fit across top of head and extending down sides to the ears, with wide off-white silk ribbon ties at end of extensions. Unlike a regular fanchon, which is solely of a piece of flat lace, this cap has a deep pile of the same wool yarn over the entire surface of the cap, each piece tipped with a cylindrical frosted white bead.
Girl's Dress
Girl's dress of blue calico cotton with white print. Stand up collar. Inset waist with long, gathered skirt. Long sleeves gathered at wrist with drawstrings. Center front opening with 8 button closure. Bodice lined with what may be sugar sack fabric; skirt unlined. Skirt is 33" long with 22" waist.
Child's Dress
Child's dress of black & tan woven cotton check/plaid. Full-length, with high, rounded collar. Set in black taffeta full-length sleeves with wide cuffs of the black/tan check, secured with two mother of pearl buttons each. Natural waist. Hem with wide band of ruffled black taffeta and a plain band of black taffeta running slightly above hem. Patch pocket at right hip composed of plaid panels formed as a "vest", with black taffeta ruffle filling in center, and three non-functioning circular mother of pearl buttons on slight curve following edge of "vest" front non-functioning opening. Center back opening with 9 circular mother of pearl buttons and hook & loop at neckline.
Child's Dress
Child's dress of tan flannel with front panel of brown velvet. Long sleeves with 3" cuff of brown velvet. Turndown collar of brown velvet with pointed ends and neckline trimmed in ivory lace; collar partially detaches on right and secures with a hook & eye. Patch pockets at sides of brown velvet. Front panel has 10 tortoise shell buttons to left of panel and right side opening of 11 matching buttons with barred buttonholes. Gored in back with six small pleats at bottom of back. Hem of garment has pleated 4-1/2" border of self trimmed with 1-1/2" band of brown velvet. Lined in tan cotton.
Child's Dress
Child's dress of black wool with red paisley trim. Full length dress, with turned down collar of paisley print. Long sleeves with 4" cuffs trimmed in matching paisley print. Center front opening with 15 nonfunctional paisley covered buttons with hook & eyes underneath. Side pockets trimmed in paisley print. Center back panel is gathered at waist to give slight bustle effect and is belted in paisley print with oval buckle in black ribbed fabric. Lined in brown polished cotton.
Boots
Pair of boots or "high button shoes" of black leather.
Boy's Suit (Jacket, Pants, and Shirt)
Boy's suit. Coat jacket of red wool. Black revers trimmed in black braid with sailor style collar. Long sleeves trimmed with black braid. Slit pocket at left breast with black braid. Ten black silk jacquard covered buttons. Lined in black silk. Retailer's label at center back neckline: "Sanger Bros. / Dallas / Waco" Matching trousers of red wool with black trim on sides seams. Closure of black covered buttons at sides of waistband. Cotton interior waistband with buttonholes for securing shirt to trousers. Stamp on back left waistband (mostly illegible). Accompanying shirt of red silk front panel with ivory damask cotton back panel. Sleeveless. Shirt has ruffles down center front placket with 3 circular white decorative buttons. Pointed collar. Center back opening with 3 circular, white buttons and tailored buttonholes. Shirt has 7 additional buttons around hem which attach to trousers. Front panel lined in matching ivory damask cotton.
Cape
Burnoose-style cape of lavender wool flannel. Mid-skirt length front and back, rounded at bottom to be shorter on each side. Fitted at shoulders. Attached hood gathered around face by use of ribbon ties woven through satin bound buttonholes around border of hood (ribbon missing). Center front opening and hem are trimmed with wide band of pastel green cording in scroll design. Closure of matching satin ribbon ties at neckline. Lined in pastel green satin.
Child's Dress
Child's dress of taupe cotton/silk trimmed in turquoise silk. Flair silhouette with dropped, pleated waist having hip belt effect, and pleats at hem and down center front. Center back opening with 7 turquoise silk covered buttons and tailored buttonholes. Short sleeves with lace at hem. Squared neckline. Lined in brown mercerized cotton.
Ensemble - Bodice and Skirt
Ensemble of green and blue plaid cotton with collar and buttons of navy blue velvet. Ensemble consists of: A) Bodice. Waist is fitted with fastening of nine velvet covered buttons and tailored buttonholes, snap at neckline and two hook&eyes at hem. High stand-up collar of velvet. Long sleeves gathered with feather stitching; 6" fitted cuffs. Lined in brown polished cotton. B) Skirt. Full length; gathered on 1" waistband of black cotton with closure of two hook & eyes. Back panel for bustle has waistband of brown polished cotton and ties. One slit pocket at right side seam. 24" waist. Unlined.
Pumps
Pair of plum purple satin pumps. The shoes are designed with a rounded toe, and plain uppers. The low heel is of a modified Louis or Cuban style, set in, and covered with matching fabric. Partly lined in white kidskin leather.
Wedding Slippers
Pair of wedding slippers of ivory kid leather. The shoes are designed with rounded toes, and have a large matching bow with layered ends, and a large ruffle of same across vamp. Uppers are edged with satin ribbon. Modified Louis or Cuban heel, flaring at base.
Infant's Dress
Infant's dress of fine batiste cotton with broderie anglaise. Yoke has attached 4"ruffle of broderie anglaise with insertion lace and pink satin ribbon. Long sleeves have insertion lace cuffs and pink satin ribbon. Full length. No labels in garment.
Capelet
Capelet of black silk satin. The short cape is trimmed along hem with 3-1/2" band of pleated organza and band of jet beads. Standing neckline trimmed in pleated organza. Center front opening with closure of five hook & eyes, with bow of black silk satin moire with trailing ends attached to right side of opening at throat. Shoulder yoke bordered in tightly gathered narrow band of black organza. Bright purple moire silk lining.
Child's Dress
Child's dress of navy blue calico with rose colored paisley print. Long sleeves with caps at shoulders. Empire waistline; full length. Standing collar trimmed with ivory lace. Center front opening with 6 circular brass, concave buttons with red painted centers decorated with silver circles and a star. Back panel in Watteau style and forms a small train. Upper part of dress lined in blue cotton with small white flowers.
Girl's Dress
Girl's dress of calico in print of blue, green and gold flowers on red background. Square neckline trimmed in lace with three rows of narrow, black velvet ribbon. Elbow-length sleeves trimmed in matching lace and velvet ribbon. Full length, with dropped waist. Center front opening with five mother-of-pearl buttons and barred buttonholes; snap at bottom of opening. Bodice lined in muslin; sleeves and skirt unlined. Tag at center back neckline: "105"
Heeled shoes
Pair of lady's slippers of brown kid leather with jet beading. Designed with pointed toes, the uppers are of brown kid leather, heavily decorated with radiating patterns of jet beads, over toe, around sides and throughout openwork that decorates throat and sides of shoes. Originally had sewn-in ties across the instep. Lined in black leather. Soles of black leather. High heels are of modified French style, sometimes called "spool" style, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front. There are no marks or labels in the shoes. The brown ribbons in photographs are not original, are to hold the shoe closed in place of original ribbons, now missing.
Sunbonnet
Sunbonnet of white cotton broadcloth. The hat has a square-shaped brim with an outer layer of off-white weave material with a plain-weave backing, and crocheted trim. The brim is thin and does not appear to contain much stiffening material or starch. The crenelated crown fastens to brim by a series of 9 buttons on top and 2 buttons on each side. The crown is trimmed with the same crocheted trim as is the brim. The crown and tail are of a made of a single length of fabric. The TFC thanks Rebecca Jumper Matheson for her research on this object.
Wedding Boots
Pair of lady's wedding boots of ivory silk or satin. Designed with pointed toes, the short boots fasten up the outer sides of each shoe with eleven buttons. The button lining is of ivory leather. The remaining lining is of ivory cloth with the upper portion silk or satin. Natural light brown leather sole; Heels are in the style of a Louis heel, rounded at sides and back, concave and flaring slightly to base. Handwritten notation on inner lining: "59576". Stamped on sole near heel: "6587".
Wedding Shoes
Wedding shoes of off-white or champagne satin. The shoes have rounded toes, and no ornamentation. The medium-high heel is set under, is rounded at back and sides and curved at front, tapers to center and then swells to base, and is covered with matching satin; it has the same natural brown colored leather on the heel's cap and on the soles of the shoes. Stamped inside both shoes: "2 D13583"
Wedding Slippers
Pair of wedding slippers of off-white kid leather. The shoes are designed with a slightly pointed toe, rounded at tip, with large off-white satin rosette at vamp. Modified Louis or Cuban heel. Size 3B
Cape
Ripple style waist-length cape of black wool felt with yoke of five rows of black satin ribbon and 6" middle tier of black lace. Ruffled stand-up collar of black silk gauze. Secures at center front neckline with two hook & eyes and ties of black satin ribbon. Unlined.
Beaded Bag
Handbag. Rectangular bronze frame chased with scrolling floral forms. Ball/snap closure and bronze chain. Body of purse of off-white woven cloth covered in beaded design of red, pink, green, black, and white in an American Indian or possibly Caucasian motifs. Originally lined in pink silk. Frame is marked "Germany".
Bonnet
Child's poke-type bonnet of white silk. Completely shirred and trimmed with white satin ribbon, outlined with lace. High crown to which circular shirred flange has been added. Label inside crown mostly illegible; last word is "Chicago".
Boots
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of black and tan leather. The lower section of the shoes, designed with pointed toes, are of black leather. The upper sections, of tan leather, close along center front with laces, 17 holes high. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Sole of black and tan leather. Stamped on sole: "TEDCO / Trade Mark" Stamped on lining: "435 72307 4" and "Tedco"
Boots
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of tan leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, are of tan leather which close along center front with laces, 19 holes high. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Heels covered with matching leather. Sole of tan leather. Stamped on lining: "H.Seligmann / Seguin, Tex." and "356 10146" Stamped on sole is a wreath containing an image of a shoe and label "Duchess".
Child's Dress
Child's "apron" dress of woven red and blue striped flannel with collar and one box pleat in front. Center front opening with snap at neckline. No belt - possibly missing.
Mourning Fan
Folding mourning fan. Guards and sticks of plain black wood, shaped but not adorned. The leaf is of plain black cloth. No visible labels, marks or signatures.
Shoes
Pair of lady's shoes of black kid leather and broadcloth. The "high button shoes" have black leather toe boxes with pointed toes and black leather sections at heels which extend from heel up the back of the shoe. The uppers are of black wool broadcloth. Shoes secure at outside edges with 12 circular, slightly domed black buttons. Upper edges lined with black leather, the rest lined with white cloth. The medium-height heel is rounded at sides and back, and squared-off at front. Although not technically a "stacked" heel, the layers can be seen. Maker's label sewn into lining at top: "Wichert / Shoe / Trade Mark / New York U.S.A." Retailer's gilt stamp on inside edge: "Norton's / Gainesville, Tex." Handwritten notation inside boot, just below upper edge: "36-1 36752 / 330".
Sunbonnet
Sunbonnet of off-white calico cotton with a tiny repeated print of three stylized leaves in brown. The brim of the hat is quilted in L-shaped rows of stitching and is very stiff from starch and stiffening material within it. The crown is gathered along the entire length of the seam where it attaches to the brim. The crown and tail are formed from a single piece of fabric, and the tail is stitched flat to the lower sides of brim. The neck is adjustable, having outer neck ties stitched to the lower corners of the brim on both sides. The chin ties are of the same fabric, with unfinished edges. The long tail on the bonnet indicates that it was used as a field bonnet. The TFC thanks Rebecca Jumper Matheson for her research on this object.
Dress
Day dress of black silk taffeta. The dress, in the style of the Aesthetic or Reform Movement, is full-length, with a slender silhouette. The front and back of the bodice is styled of tiny vertical knife-pleats, which gather into the rounded neckline. The side panels of the bodice are plain, and there is a line of 14 snaps along the left side forming the closure. The long sleeves are smooth, with slight pleating at the padded shoulders, and they taper to the pointed wrists. The sleeves have 5 hidden snaps and a line of 12 domed non-functioning black taffeta covered buttons on each sleeve. Bodice and skirt are divided by a thin black band. Skirt is fully pleated with tiny vertical knife-pleats. Bodice is lined with thin black crepe. Label sewn inside at back below neckline: "Harbison / Vandervoort's St Louis" Not shown is the accompanying cummerbund of black taffeta, the waistband of large horizontal pleats with a large fan/bow at back with wide, trailing ribbons. (43" from waist to lowest point of ribbons)
Hat
Hat of dull golden horsehair mesh over wire framework. Cylindrical crown widening to base of horsehair constructed in a spiral, on wire armature. Side of crown with wide black velvet band with self bow at back. Slightly oval brim of same horsehair set so sides are wider than front or back. Brim slopes slightly from crown to outer rim, with thin wire framework to retain shape. Attached at sides are sprays of artificial flowers and leaves. Underside of brim lined with gathered extremely fine pale chiffon. Crown has inner rigid structure that extends below brim, creating a "support" that rests on wearer's head. Exterior of inner structure lined with black velvet, inner lining of white fabric with "drawstring" center gather. No labels or tags.
Hat
Little girl's Easter bonnet. Wired base with mushroom type top of black velvet and double ruffled brim of white lace. Small pink roses and green stems encircle hat above lace brim.
Wedding Shoes
Pair of white kid ladies' shoes. Styled with pointed-toes, the white kid leather upper has a vamp decorated with geometric and stylized foliate designs in crystal beads. The shoes secure across instep with single ribbon tie on each, creating a "peep" just above toes. Lined in white leather. Natural brown leather sole. Heel is of medium height, rounded at back and tapering slightly to base. Similar to what would become a Cuban heel. Maker's code stamped inside: "35-C 3021" Worn by Norma Tiemann at her marriage to Val L. Lehmann in Brenham, Texas in 1907.
Dress
Dress of midnight blue velvet with cream silk(?) bodice overlaid with pleated sheer black fabric. Rounded neckline edged with black lace, with wired standing collar at back of neck. Long pointed sleeves of matching velvet with wide collars of black net/corded lace overlaying cream silk sleeves trimmed with cream lace. Long, full skirt gathers onto waist under a 3" wide, attached velvet belt trimmed with net covered in black sequins and jet beads with round buckle. Hem with wide black net/corded lace band over sheer black silk(?), with narrow triple-layer black silk gauze ruffle at bottom. With accompanying bolero style vest of black net with applique cording/corded lace. Fastens across front with narrow ribbon of midnight blue velvet with central "pendant" butterfly of black sequins and jet bead as head of butterfly.
Child's Coat
Child's coat of off-white cotton faille with box pleats front and back; one each at shoulder and one down the middle of both back and front. Front opening to waist of four small white mother-of-pearl buttons and two snaps at neckline, covered by pleat. Sailor collar embroidered with simple flower and vine pattern and embroidered scalloped edges. Long sleeves have the same treatment for 3" cuffs. Dropped waist with belt loops (belt missing).
Dance Pumps
Pair of lady's dance pumps in white satin. The shoes are of white satin with large bow at vamp and a second bow on the strap which buttons across instep of each shoe. Low/flat heels. White leather insole, and sides lined with white fabric. Retailer's stamp on sole: "S.G. Maddox / Weatherford, Texas." Stamped inside: "4 D 520"
Evening Coat
Evening coat of cream/ecru wool with beige velvet accents and braided cream cord trim. Full length; center front opening with single hook & eye closure. Wide, 3/4 length dolman sleeves with velvet cuffs. Silk cord in scroll and chain pattern outlined front, sleeves and back to waist. Two inside pockets; ivory silk lining.
Hat
Hat of black velvet. Designed as a modified sailor's hat, with a shallow cylindrical black velvet crown with slightly domed top. The wide, flat, black velvet-covered brim has an inner wire form, visible where velvet has been damaged. At side of crown is a spray of black/green cock feathers with a black velvet ribbon bow. The underside of the brim is covered in black velvet, while the crown is lined in black satin. There are no labels in the hat.
Hat
Hat of navy blue velvet. Cylindrical crown has slightly concave sides and somewhat domed crown that is gathered into sides in large pleats. Wide brim of matching velvet is of approximately oval shape, set somewhat off-center and with large "split" at side allowing for some overlap, and with rounded ends, one of which hangs below other when hat is worn. At split is navy blue dyed ostrich feather plume. Underside of brim is of same velvet, inside of crown lined with navy blue satin with drawstring opening at top of crown, which has inner lining of cream fabric. No designer's, maker's or retailer's labels in item.
Hat
Hat of gray and cream brocade and black velvet. The high, domed crown is formed of cream and gray brocade, in a stylized pattern of geometric lines and floral forms, recalling Chinese patterns. The oval brim is set off-center, turning up high at front and only slightly at back. Set on the brim are three black velvet bows. The upper side of the brim is of the brocade, while the underside is lined in black velvet. The inside of the crown is lined with a black satin. Retailer's label is sewn inside crown: "Egner / 501 Gordon & Koppel Bldg / Kansas City".
Infant's Ensemble
Infant's ensemble of fine white persian lawn consisting of: A) Infant's dress of white batiste cotton. Full length dress gathers into square yoke with narrow, vertical rows of fine eyelet and hair pin lace. Two rows of pin tucking separated by two rows of eyelet and hair pin lace matching yoke at bottom with 2-1/2" ruffle of scalloped eyelet lace at hem. Round neckline trimmed in lace. Long sleeves with lace at hem; center back opening. B) Slip of white batiste cotton. Neckline and armholes trimmed in lace. Full length. Narrow row of pin tucks and row of eyelet and hair pin lace matching dress with matching ruffle of scalloped, eyelet at hem. Closure of mother-of-pearl buttons at shoulders. No labels in garment.
Purse
Purse. Ornate bell-shaped silver (plated?) frame with openwork latticework set with red and blue cabochons and with silver (plated?) chain. Body of purse is of crocheted gray with vertical stripes of horizontal rows of faceted blue beads. Bottom of bag with fringe formed of loops of matching beading. Lined in gray satin with roses and vine trim.
El Sah Mesh Handbag
Handbag. Arched frame of silver (plated?), lightly chased and engraved. Openwork areas on sides of frame allow rings from suspension chain to slide up and down acting as "locks". Mesh bag with enameled design of flowers. Inside bag are makers tag marked: "Mesh / Whiting & Davis Co. / Bags / Reg. U.S. & Can." and brand tag marked "El Sah".
Hat
Hat of ivory/ecru panne velvet, black fur, ivory lace, and a black plume. The crown is of low, crushed ivory or ecrue panne velvet, with a lower border of black fur. The wide brim had an inner wire framework covered with ivory lace, edged with the same black fur. Extending from lower edge of crown at side to off of the edge of the brim is a large black plume. Crown is lined with ivory/ecru satin, with gathered section at center. There are no labels in the hat. Gift of Margaret Baker. From the trousseau of Mrs. Thomas Elmer Braniff.
Hat
Hat of velvet and golden weave cloth. The domed crown is covered in a woven golden cloth shot through with metallic threads. Around the base of the crown is a wide hatband of a similar fabric in the form of a dense ribbon, forming a large bow at front. Set in behind the bow is a semi-circular fan spray of fine white feathers. The wide, circular, slightly floppy brim is of black velvet. The inside of the crown is lined in a dark blue/black satin material. Maker's label stamped in gold on inner lining of crown: "Mme. J. Dagnet / French Millinery / 206 St. Paul St. / Dallas.
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