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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Country: France
 Decade: 1950-1959
Beret

Beret

Date: 1950/2010
Creator: unknown
Description: Beret of black felted wool with sort tail at center crown. Label inside at center of crown: "100% wool - made in France / WPL 10.888"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Dress

Cocktail Dress

Date: 1950
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Cocktail dress of dark navy blue silk satin. Strapless with fitted bodice. Open pleats over bust with mock bow and attached 14'' wide stole lined with silk organza which drapes over right shoulder and down back. Straight skirt with small inverted pleats at each hip bone, 23 1/2'' long from waist. Center back 24'' zipper closing with hook and eye at top and waist line. French netting, boned bustier with black grosgrain ribbon and hook & eye closure on inside. Skirt is lined to hip front and back with navy taffeta. Designer's label at center front bottom of bustier: "Christian Dior Original / Made In U.S.A. / Christian Dior - New York, Inc. / Trademark" Retailer's label to left of designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Daytime Ensemble - Dress and Jacket

Daytime Ensemble - Dress and Jacket

Date: 1950~
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Daytime ensemble of brown silk consisting of: A) Dress. Below-knee length, the dress has princess seaming to create fitted bodice, with wide V-neckline, 3/4" shoulder straps and straight skirt. 1" belt of self fabric from front darts to center back. Center back zipper. Unlined. Designer's label: "Christian Dior Original / Made in U.S.A. / Christian Dior - New York Inc." Retailer's label: "Harzfeld's / Kansas City" B) Jacket. Cropped jacket is pleated in front and back to a 3" waistband on which are three brass buttons 1/2" wide, and bound buttonholes. Long sleeves with 1-1/2" cuffs and one matching button per sleeve. Band collar has 10" tie ends and L-shaped lapel. Unlined.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1950~
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Dress of blue/gray silk satin or peau de soie, in shirtwaist style. Notched collar. Self covered button at center front with bound buttonhole. Waist seam; 3/4 length skirt with pleats on front and back of skirt. Half-length sleeves with self covered button, turn-back cuffs and bound buttonhole. Armhole princess seams front and back. Tucks on front and back bodice. Center back zipper. Lined in blue organdy with 1/2" blue grosgrain ribbon petersham. With belt of self-fabric forming a bow at center front with hook & eye and snap closure. Designer's label at center back seam below zipper: "Christian Dior - New York, Inc."
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble

Ensemble

Date: 1950
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Ensemble in black and oatmeal colored wool, consisting of: A) Jacket: Semi-fitted wool in abstracted herringbone weave with black and oatmeal yarns running double throughout; moderately rounded neckline with asymmetrical mandarin collar; full-length raglan sleeves with overarm seam and undersleeve; double breasted front opening with eight round, plastic, oatmeal colored buttons and four bound buttonholes supplemented by single hook & eye inside lap at waist; vertical welt pockets on front lined in black silk; fully lined in black silk. Designer's label at inside collar: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris" and "Made in France". Retailer's label at inside side seam: "Neiman-Marcus" B) Dress: Knee length dress; bodice of black wool gauze with jewel neckline; sleeveless; lapped centerfront opening with four round self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes supplemented by single snap and hook & eye; bodice gathers into seam at natural waistline; gathered hip yoke of same gauze; straight skirt of matching herringbone has three snaps at centerfront opening; folded hem; gauze is lined in black silk organdy; skirt is unlined.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Gown and Stole

Evening Gown and Stole

Date: 1950
Creator: Fath, Jacques
Description: Evening gown and stole of silk satin; 2 sided fabric. Gown of deep red silk satin; sleeveless; sheath; large bow draped over right shoulder; fitted skirt; flounce from side seam creates half-circle; 2 self covered button accents; inner hem has horsehair braid and netting for structure; With stole of silk satin; deep red and dark blue; floor length; connected to make slight armholes.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1950/1959
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Hat of reddish-pink wool. The derby style hat has a domed crown made of four sections of cloth that meet at center. Each section has chevrons of stitching, which point towards the center of the crown, giving a subtle quilted effect. Narrow brim rolls upwards at sides and back. A black suede(?) bow is applied to base of crown at center left. Inside base of crown is a band of pink grosgrain ribbon. Sewn to inner ribbon band is maker's label: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris" and label "Made in France"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1950
Creator: Molli
Description: Hat of rust colored straw with curved brim wider in front and rolled in back. Green velvet ribbon trim. Tucked crown & tan silk lined brim. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Paris / Molli / New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1950/1955
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Hat of shiny beige/light brown straw. Formed somewhat as a turban, the strands (approximately 50) of straw are wrapped and swirled around stiff net base creating a high, somewhat conical crown with an effect like a turban or a high-piled swirl of blond hair. Completely covered with beige veiling. Dark muted orange satin binding (1/2 inch deep) around edge of crown. Designer's label sewn to inner edge: "Christian Dior / chapeaux / Paris~New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1950/1959
Creator: unknown
Description: Hat of dark muted purple straw. The high crown is canted back at an angle, and has a slight rim around upper edge. Around the crown is wrapped a wide band of gathered off-white organza, which covers the entire side of the crown. The brim is of the same woven straw, with a rolled edge. It turns down at front and up at back. The inside of the crown is lined in a dark blue fine-mesh netting, and there is a dark blue grosgrain inner hatband around the lower inside edge of the crown. Sewn to the inside of the crown is a large retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Custom Made"; a smaller label is sewn to the inner hatband: "Made in France for / Neiman-Marcus".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1950/1959
Creator: Legroux Soeurs (Paris, France)
Description: Hat of gray fur felt. The low, rounded crown is made of gray beaver(?) fur felt over a structure of woven straw. Brim is of same felt, and appears narrow in front, but rolls under and extends back under crown. At sides and back, brim curves upwards, and then back downwards to extend under crown. Along sides and back of crown is section of gray grosgrain ribbon which projects through the upturned brim at back and becomes a large bow with trailing ends. There is an inner hatband of gray grosgrain ribbon around the edges of the brim where they meet the inside base of the crown. Attached to the inner hatband is an elasticized cord to secure hat to wearer's head, and attached to the front brim underside is a plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Legroux Soeurs / 4 Rue Cambon Paris / Made in France".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pillbox Hat

Pillbox Hat

Date: 1950/1959
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Pillbox hat of black velvet. The low, cylindrical, slightly domed hat is completely covered in black velvet. Affixed to the center front of the hat is a roughly fan-shaped aigrette of simulated gems and metallic braid with a surmounting spray of white feathers. The crown is lined in black fabric, and has a black grosgrain ribbon running along the inside bottom edge. Sewn to the inner ribbon is a plastic comb to secure the hat to the wearer's head. No labels. The aigrette is attributed to Robert Goossens, of Paris, who is known to have supplied to Balenciaga.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1950
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Two-piece gray faille moire wool and nylon suit. Jacket is long, with wide notched collar, is double breasted, has bound button holes, and buttons below waist. It has a sculptural double-breasted front panel, that maintains a vertical linear center front, rounded shape visually flanks stomach area. The skirt is straight; slightly below knee length.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Turban

Turban

Date: 1950/1959
Creator: Daché, Lilly
Description: Turban of pleated brown wool jersey. The high-crowned turban is composed of pleated concentric bands of fabric. The hat is lined in mesh covered with cream/pale yellow silk, and with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. A stitched mark on headband shows front of hat, and small applied ribbon bow shows back. Designer's label inside crown: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York". Label is large, almost reaching from headband to headband across inside of crown.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Coat

Coat

Date: 1951
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Daytime coat of beige linen. Single breasted with three cream colored, circular, plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Long, raglan sleeves with 4" cuffs. Notched collar. Street length. Side slit pockets. Lined in black silk. Designer's label at inside right seam of lining under arm hole: "Christian Dior / Paris / Made in France"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1951
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Hat of silk faille. The body of the hat is made of woven straw, covered with beige/off-white silk faille. The shallow, domed crown is made in two parts - the upper shallow dome, and a collar into which the upper crown is inset. The upper edge of the collar is pipped in black. The shallow sloping brim is similarly constructed, with an inner band and then outer section with a black pipped edge between the sections. The crown is unlined, revealing the woven straw. The brim segments are lined in the same faille of the outside of the hat. Around the inside of the crown is an inner hatband of cream grosgrain ribbon, two which is attached a black elasticized cord to secure the hat to wearer's head. A small red/brown stitch on the inner hatband indicates the front of the hat. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Christian Dior / Paris / Made in / France"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Coat Dress

Coat Dress

Date: 1952
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Coat dress of brown silk faille in "Ottoman" style. Knee or street length, with turndown collar and slight V neckline. Darts at bust for fit. Four button closures at center front with bound buttonholes, two above and two below waist/belt. Hook and eyes at waistline. Long sleeves with rolled cuffs and underarm gussets. In-seam pockets at sides. Flared skirt, pleated in back. Simulated "shirtwaist" decoration at front of skirt. Unlined. Designer's label at inside back collar: "Made in / France"; "Autumne-Hiver 1952 / Christian Dior / Paris"; stamped: "2????" [mostly illegible], on label With matching belt of brown suede. Self-covered buckle of narrow, vertical rectangles secures with hook and bar closure; 1-1/4" wide.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Ensemble - Dress and Jacket

Cocktail Ensemble - Dress and Jacket

Date: 1952
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Cocktail ensemble of silver (pale lavender?) heavy faille moire consisting of: A) Cocktail dress. 3/4 length. Sleeveless with thin straps. Shallow V-neck. Natural waist with a bias cut, 1-1/4" set-in waistband between skirt and bodice trimmed with a center, non-functioning gray plastic button. Fitted bust with gores at bust and under-arm. Inverted pleats at front and back center. Center back zipper closure with hook & eye closure at base of bodice. Cream satin lining in bust which descends to become sheath inside skirt. Skirt lined with net. Designer's label at inside center bust: "Made in France / Autumne-Hiver 1952 / Christian Dior / Paris" Stamped "20445" on label. Handwritten label behind designer's label: "250516" B) Matching bolero jacket. Cropped to waist, long sleeves. No collar. Slight V at top of neckline, with deeper "inset" V at bottom. Center front opening with 3 circular gray buttons at base of jacket. Lined in cream silk matching lining of dress. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Made in France / Autumne-Hiver 1952 / Christian Dior / Paris" Stamped "20446" on label. Handwritten label behind designer's label: "250517"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1952
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Halter-style dress of black wool. V-neck, very low back, sleeveless, buttons up back. Straight skirt with drapery over hips and in front. Country of Origin Label: " Made in France " located on front neckline at right center. Designers Label at inside left on construction detail: " Made in France / Automne - Hiver 1952 / Christian Dior / Paris "
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1952
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Halter-style dress of black wool. Below-knee-length, with wide strap running from front up and behind neck. Straight neckline at front, with very low rounded edge at back - almost to mid-back. Center front with draped effect at waist, appearing "pulled" from hips, and with central front drape. 2 large pleats from waist at back. Center back opening with 5 self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes, supplemented with hook & eye at top and two hook & eyes at waist, and with zipper under edge of pleat at right of center back. Inner bodice of black net has boning and closes at center back with hook & eyes. Skirt lined in black silk. Country of Origin Label: "Made in France" located on front neckline at right center. Designer's Label at inside left on construction detail: "Made in France / Automne - Hiver 1952 / Christian Dior / Paris" and stamped "20951". Has handwritten style number tag beneath designer's label (mostly illegible): "50938" Retailer's label at back seam of skirt: "Neiman-Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte

Calotte

Date: 1953
Creator: Orcel, Gilbert
Description: Calotte of beige fabric, heavily beaded. The calotte (also spelled "calot") is constructed with a low, domed crown of stiffened net and beige fabric, with areas that extend down at sides and back. The whole is covered with clear sequins, yellow rhinestones, bugle beads, small metal strips, etc. The hat has an inner peach/beige grosgrain ribbon hatband, and four small metal loops sewn in to use to attach to wearer's head with bobby pins. Designer's label: "Gilbert Orcel / 5 Rue de Cirque Paris (8º)"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Dress

Cocktail Dress

Date: 1953
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Cocktail dress of fuschia (cranberry) silk with black feather print; bodice has round neckline and three-quarter length sleeves; skirt is knee-length and very full, gathered at waist and covered by a short piece of self fabric.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Day Dress

Day Dress

Date: 1953
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Day dress of red ribbed wool. Squared neckline; 3/4 length sleeves. Set-in waistline with attached 1-1/2" wraparound belt that closes in back with 2 hook & eyes and a snap. Below knee length. Center front opening with 7 hook & eyes on waistband and 7 red, circular, plastic buttons and bound buttonholes below waistband. Lined in red silk; bodice lining is sleeveless with center front zipper closure. Designer's label at right seam of bodice lining: "Automne-Hiver 1953 / Christian Dior / Paris / Made in France" and stamped on designer's label: "36416" Style number label under designer's label, illegible: "--6--4"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1953
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Daytime dress of red silk faille. Street length. Short sleeves with turned-back edge. Shawl collar with button-down ends at front. Center front opening of 6 circular faceted red plastic buttons. Skirt gathers/pleats at waistline. Side slit pockets. Bodice partly lined in red silk. Red grosgrain ribbon petersham with hook & eye. Designer's label at right side seam: "Christian Dion Original / Made in U.S.A. / Christian Dior - New York Inc. / Trademark" Retailer's label at left side seam of skirt: "Neiman-Marcus". With accompanying belt of red leather covered with matching red silk faille. Elongated oval buckle covered with red silk faille except for tongue, which is enameled red. Designer's stamp on back: "Christian Dior / New York, Inc." and size, partly illegible. 10 or 12.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
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