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Girl's dress
Girl's dress of white cotton gauze with bodice of tucks and lace inserts. Squared neckline trimmed in lace. Short sleeves with lace trimmed cuffs. Drop waist and gathered skirt with wide horizontal tucks at the hem. Center back button closure.
Handbag
Handbag. Rectangular frame of cast openwork brass floral designs with traces of gilding. Ball and snap closure and gilt brass suspension chain. Bag is of dark purple crocheted silk, with three different types of beading. Area at frame is plain all-over beading of purple/bronze iridescent cut beads. Below this, and at bottom of bag is fringe of looped beading. The main body of the bag has vertical stripes of beads arranged in horizontal rows. Lined with bright purple silk, trimmed in gold cording. Contains a small gold kid leather purse embossed with a stylized thorn pattern.
Hankerchief blouse
.Fine white handkerchief linen waist or blouse with crochet Irish lace inserts, and high standing collar. Short sleeves. Size 8/10
Infant's dress
Infant's long dress of ribbed white cotton batiste. Tucks on front and back bodice; bobbin lace ruffle on neckline. Elbow length sleeves.
Infant's dress
Infant's batiste cotton dress. Lace ruffled at neckline, sleeve cuffs, and center front button placket.
Infant's gown
Infant's long gown of white cotton voile with paired pin tucks at front and back bodice. Lace trimmed neckline, sleeve cuffs and center back opening. Button closure.
Infant's gown
Infant's long gown of white cotton voile with yoke of vertical lace inserts and high ruffled collar. Sleeves trimmed in matching lace. Hem seam trimmed in white feather stitch.
Infant's nightgown
Infant's long nightgown. Both sides of bodice trimmed with pin tucks and zig zag feather stitch white embroidery on front. Sleeve cuffs, neckline and front opening trimmed in lace. Front button closure.
Infant's slip
Infant's long slip of white cotton batiste. Tiny fagoting at hem ruffle with broderie anglaise along bottom edge. Sleeveless; rounded neckline. Center back button closure.
Leather shoes
Mary Janes of light brown leather with button tab closure across top concealed by a silver wreath-like buckle with bow ribbon accent; 13cm length.
Mourning Ensemble - Bodice and Skirt
Black silk mourning ensemble consisting of bodice and skirt. The bodice of black silk is fitted and boned, with a high, standing black silk band collar with appliqued black lace medallions. It has full-length, modified bishop sleeves that gather into the armseye. Below the gathered cap, in the portion corresponding to the upper arm, the fullness of the sleeve is controlled with top-stitched vertical tucks. From the elbow to the cuff the fullness is again released in a bishop sleeve silhouette. The sleeves gather again into wide black silk cuffs with appliqued black lace medallions and four narrow bands of black velvet ribbon. The bodice front is constructed on the lines of a bolero jacket, with a deep V-shaped opening and wide ruffled collar which is constructed of horizontally tucked black crepe-patterned silk. The released fullness of the tucking creates the ruffled finish. The ruffled portion is edged with two narrow bands of black velvet ribbon. The bodice front has a bib fill of gathered black silk and tulle net that is secured with hook-and-eyes beneath the left collar overlay. The fill area disguises the true front opening which is secured with thirteen hook-and-eyes. The main body of the bodice, front and back, is constructed of vertically tucked black silk that finishes in a wide black silk waistband which is appliqued with black lace medallions and edged in narrow black velvet ribbon. The waistband laps slightly left of center and secures with three hook-and-eyes. The bodice is fully lined with heavily boned glazed black cotton and has figure enhancing pads sewn over the bust and underarm areas and has a black cotton petersham that hooks at center front. There are two hooks at back waist-level to connect the bodice to the skirt. The matching seven-panel gored skirt is of black …
Mourning Fan
Folding mourning fan. Guards and sticks of plain black wood, shaped but not adorned. The leaf is of plain black cloth. No visible labels, marks or signatures.
Mourning Jacket
Ladies' mourning jacket of black velvet.
Shoes
No Description Available.
Shoes
Pair of lady's shoes of black kid leather and broadcloth. The "high button shoes" have black leather toe boxes with pointed toes and black leather sections at heels which extend from heel up the back of the shoe. The uppers are of black wool broadcloth. Shoes secure at outside edges with 12 circular, slightly domed black buttons. Upper edges lined with black leather, the rest lined with white cloth. The medium-height heel is rounded at sides and back, and squared-off at front. Although not technically a "stacked" heel, the layers can be seen. Maker's label sewn into lining at top: "Wichert / Shoe / Trade Mark / New York U.S.A." Retailer's gilt stamp on inside edge: "Norton's / Gainesville, Tex." Handwritten notation inside boot, just below upper edge: "36-1 36752 / 330".
Shoes
Pair of shoes of ivory kid leather. Designed as "flats" with pointed toes, the shoes have a wide strap across instep, to which is applied large silk bow embellished with small white beads. Top of upper with edged with thin band of ivory silk ribbon. Maker's mark stamped inside: "Brandt's / St. Louis"
Sunbonnet
Sunbonnet of off-white calico cotton with a tiny repeated print of three stylized leaves in brown. The brim of the hat is quilted in L-shaped rows of stitching and is very stiff from starch and stiffening material within it. The crown is gathered along the entire length of the seam where it attaches to the brim. The crown and tail are formed from a single piece of fabric, and the tail is stitched flat to the lower sides of brim. The neck is adjustable, having outer neck ties stitched to the lower corners of the brim on both sides. The chin ties are of the same fabric, with unfinished edges. The long tail on the bonnet indicates that it was used as a field bonnet. The TFC thanks Rebecca Jumper Matheson for her research on this object.
Toddler's dress
Toddler's dress/slip of white cotton voile. Bodice is double faced; skirt gathers at natural waist. Attached hem has three rows of horizontal pin tucks with white work embroidery of heart-shaped leaves and scalloped eyelet hem. Snap closure on back.
White cotton petticoat
Fine white cotton petticoat with deep tucked border from knee to hem, and elaborately embroidered non gathered flounce. Believed to be cut down from one piece garment.
White linen petticoat
Petticoat of white linen. Full-length. Eyelet lace at hem; 9 horizontal tucks near hem, two larger ones at mid-thigh. Eyelet band below lower tucks.
Cotton shirtwaist
Shirtwaist of fine white cotton with pintucks, embroidery, lace standing collar, back buttons.
Dress
Day dress of black silk taffeta. The dress, in the style of the Aesthetic or Reform Movement, is full-length, with a slender silhouette. The front and back of the bodice is styled of tiny vertical knife-pleats, which gather into the rounded neckline. The side panels of the bodice are plain, and there is a line of 14 snaps along the left side forming the closure. The long sleeves are smooth, with slight pleating at the padded shoulders, and they taper to the pointed wrists. The sleeves have 5 hidden snaps and a line of 12 domed non-functioning black taffeta covered buttons on each sleeve. Bodice and skirt are divided by a thin black band. Skirt is fully pleated with tiny vertical knife-pleats. Bodice is lined with thin black crepe. Label sewn inside at back below neckline: "Harbison / Vandervoort's St Louis" Not shown is the accompanying cummerbund of black taffeta, the waistband of large horizontal pleats with a large fan/bow at back with wide, trailing ribbons. (43" from waist to lowest point of ribbons)
Hat
Hat of dull golden horsehair mesh over wire framework. Cylindrical crown widening to base of horsehair constructed in a spiral, on wire armature. Side of crown with wide black velvet band with self bow at back. Slightly oval brim of same horsehair set so sides are wider than front or back. Brim slopes slightly from crown to outer rim, with thin wire framework to retain shape. Attached at sides are sprays of artificial flowers and leaves. Underside of brim lined with gathered extremely fine pale chiffon. Crown has inner rigid structure that extends below brim, creating a "support" that rests on wearer's head. Exterior of inner structure lined with black velvet, inner lining of white fabric with "drawstring" center gather. No labels or tags.
Child's shoes
Child’s high top lace-up shoes of light tan leather with pink eyestays, tips and scalloped tops. Stamped on bottom of sole: "Warranted / B. & D."
Dress Ensemble
Dress ensemble of light green and off-white vertical striped cotton; white stripes contain black dots.
Hat
Little girl's Easter bonnet. Wired base with mushroom type top of black velvet and double ruffled brim of white lace. Small pink roses and green stems encircle hat above lace brim.
Off-white petticoat
Off-white petticoat with three bands of horizontal tucks and lace inserts, each 2" to 4" deep. Final tier 3 1/2" deep; scalloped at lower edge. 140" around lower edge. Waistband 3/4" wide and 25" long. Second layer attached from base of first tier.
Fan
No Description Available.
Beaded shoes
Pair of white kid ladies' shoes. Styled with pointed-toes, the white kid leather upper has a vamp decorated with tiny gunmetal beads edging oval cut-outs, and with massed beading at center of each vamp. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Back and sides of heel covered in matching leather. Lined in white leather. Natural brown leather sole. Retailer's stamp inside: "Neiman-Marcus Co. / Dallas Maker's code stamped inside: "150 / B19003"
Boots
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of white kidskin leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes close along center front with laces, 17 holes high. Embellished at top with band of small holes along edge of boot. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Heels covered with matching leather. Sole of tan leather. Stamped on lining: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" and "28D 23949"
Wedding Shoes
Pair of white kid ladies' shoes. Styled with pointed-toes, the white kid leather upper has a vamp decorated with geometric and stylized foliate designs in crystal beads. The shoes secure across instep with single ribbon tie on each, creating a "peep" just above toes. Lined in white leather. Natural brown leather sole. Heel is of medium height, rounded at back and tapering slightly to base. Similar to what would become a Cuban heel. Maker's code stamped inside: "35-C 3021" Worn by Norma Tiemann at her marriage to Val L. Lehmann in Brenham, Texas in 1907.
Dress
Dress of midnight blue velvet with cream silk(?) bodice overlaid with pleated sheer black fabric. Rounded neckline edged with black lace, with wired standing collar at back of neck. Long pointed sleeves of matching velvet with wide collars of black net/corded lace overlaying cream silk sleeves trimmed with cream lace. Long, full skirt gathers onto waist under a 3" wide, attached velvet belt trimmed with net covered in black sequins and jet beads with round buckle. Hem with wide black net/corded lace band over sheer black silk(?), with narrow triple-layer black silk gauze ruffle at bottom. With accompanying bolero style vest of black net with applique cording/corded lace. Fastens across front with narrow ribbon of midnight blue velvet with central "pendant" butterfly of black sequins and jet bead as head of butterfly.
Boy's Suit (Jacket and Pants)
Boy's suit of olive green wool tweed with gold flecks and small blue and white vertical stripes. A) Jacket. Triangular, placket front is bordered with black twill tape and has a vertical, center insert of red wool bordered with black braid. Four gilded brass buttons on each side of placket with right side closure having tailored buttonholes. 1-1/2" belt of self attaches at bottom button. Long, set-in sleeves are trimmed with two, smaller, nonfunctional matching buttons. Turn down collar closes with 2 hook & eyes. Bow tie of black silk faille. Horizontal, double welt pockets at side. Body of jacket is lined with black polished cotton and sleeves are lined in cotton fabric in stripes of light gray with thin green stripes. B) Short pants of matching tweed. Closes with a single brown button on each side of waist above pockets. Single slit pocket on the back at right. Sides of legs trimmed with 3 matching, nonfunctional buttons. Interior cotton satin waistband has 8 vertical buttonholes and is stamped: "Aletor(?) Waist Band / Patented / June 29, 1896 / 3 / Brooklyn, N. Y." Front lined in brown polished cotton.
Child's Coat
Child's coat of off-white cotton faille with box pleats front and back; one each at shoulder and one down the middle of both back and front. Front opening to waist of four small white mother-of-pearl buttons and two snaps at neckline, covered by pleat. Sailor collar embroidered with simple flower and vine pattern and embroidered scalloped edges. Long sleeves have the same treatment for 3" cuffs. Dropped waist with belt loops (belt missing).
Child's shoes
Girls one button white soft kid "Mary Jane" shoes; white satin ribbon bow on buckle; leather soles. Size 7 1/2
Dance Pumps
Pair of lady's dance pumps in white satin. The shoes are of white satin with large bow at vamp and a second bow on the strap which buttons across instep of each shoe. Low/flat heels. White leather insole, and sides lined with white fabric. Retailer's stamp on sole: "S.G. Maddox / Weatherford, Texas." Stamped inside: "4 D 520"
Dinner Dress
Dress of purple silk brocade and white lace bodice.
Evening Coat
Evening coat of cream/ecru wool with beige velvet accents and braided cream cord trim. Full length; center front opening with single hook & eye closure. Wide, 3/4 length dolman sleeves with velvet cuffs. Silk cord in scroll and chain pattern outlined front, sleeves and back to waist. Two inside pockets; ivory silk lining.
Evening coat
Evening jacket of ivory of Battenburg cotton lace. 3/4 sleeves; knee length. Open front with two large lace flowers and hanging tassels; black velvet ties stem from the flowers and close with two hook & eyes. Matching black velvet sewn into neck edge. Embroidered retailer's(?) label at inside back neckline: "J. Hook / Detroit / Mich."
Felt cowboy-style hat
Hat of light tan felt in cowboy style. Black grosgrain trim around brim and as hatband. Headband of brown leather; unlined.
Hat
Small cartwheel-style hat. Cylindrical crown of gold and ochre/brown brocade with irregular folds. Circular stiff brown velour brim, not as wide as a typical cartwheel hat but in the same style. Affixed to the crown near the brim on one side is a cluster of three cloth flowers and a sprig of cloth leaves. Affixed to the other side is a plume of brown ostrich feathers. Inside of crown lined in black silk. Embroidered inside crown is maker's marks, including an oval frame containing a monogram, possibly RSCM, and "Gold Medal / Pattern"
Hat
Hat of black velvet with soft brim and two ostrich pom-poms attached to left side. Hard velour stand decorated with jet surrounds a shirred crown. Retailer's label on inside crown: "Irwin's / Decor / Cincinnati / St. Louis"
Hat
Hat of black velvet. Designed as a modified sailor's hat, with a shallow cylindrical black velvet crown with slightly domed top. The wide, flat, black velvet-covered brim has an inner wire form, visible where velvet has been damaged. At side of crown is a spray of black/green cock feathers with a black velvet ribbon bow. The underside of the brim is covered in black velvet, while the crown is lined in black satin. There are no labels in the hat.
Hat
Hat of navy blue velvet. Cylindrical crown has slightly concave sides and somewhat domed crown that is gathered into sides in large pleats. Wide brim of matching velvet is of approximately oval shape, set somewhat off-center and with large "split" at side allowing for some overlap, and with rounded ends, one of which hangs below other when hat is worn. At split is navy blue dyed ostrich feather plume. Underside of brim is of same velvet, inside of crown lined with navy blue satin with drawstring opening at top of crown, which has inner lining of cream fabric. No designer's, maker's or retailer's labels in item.
Hat
Hat of gray and cream brocade and black velvet. The high, domed crown is formed of cream and gray brocade, in a stylized pattern of geometric lines and floral forms, recalling Chinese patterns. The oval brim is set off-center, turning up high at front and only slightly at back. Set on the brim are three black velvet bows. The upper side of the brim is of the brocade, while the underside is lined in black velvet. The inside of the crown is lined with a black satin. Retailer's label is sewn inside crown: "Egner / 501 Gordon & Koppel Bldg / Kansas City".
Infant's Ensemble
Infant's ensemble of fine white persian lawn consisting of: A) Infant's dress of white batiste cotton. Full length dress gathers into square yoke with narrow, vertical rows of fine eyelet and hair pin lace. Two rows of pin tucking separated by two rows of eyelet and hair pin lace matching yoke at bottom with 2-1/2" ruffle of scalloped eyelet lace at hem. Round neckline trimmed in lace. Long sleeves with lace at hem; center back opening. B) Slip of white batiste cotton. Neckline and armholes trimmed in lace. Full length. Narrow row of pin tucks and row of eyelet and hair pin lace matching dress with matching ruffle of scalloped, eyelet at hem. Closure of mother-of-pearl buttons at shoulders. No labels in garment.
Leather boots
Boots of black patent leather with white leather upper; white button closure; 3/8" heel. Size 4 1/2
Linen petticoat
Fine white handkerchief linen petticoat, with outer flounce of embroidered sections joined with lace bands and ruffle. 26" waist.
Picture Hat
Picture hat of black velvet with domed crown and wide brim edged in black satin. Hatband of pleated black satin. Bright green ostrich feathers on left side of crown. Lined in pink fabric. Designer's label: "Mae Kelley / Exclusive Hand Made Hats / Whittier, Calif." Retailer's label: "Yvonne / Hats / California"
Purse
Silver mesh purse with cathedral arch frame etched with scroll filigree. Ball and socket clasp. Ball finials at each corner of tri-corner bottom. Mesh band handle with slide adjustment stamped with a four petal flower. Interior of frame stamped: "Mesh / Whiting & Davis / Bags" and "Sterling"
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