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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Country: United States
 Language: No Language
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Purse
Purse of multicolored Bargello needlepoint. The envelope-style purse is covered in silk embroidery in greens, blues, reds, pinks, black, etc., in the Florentine Bargello, edged in green wool. On one side, under flap, is rectangular section with monogram FH and date 1775 worked in embroidery. Opens to reveal 2 separate compartments, lined in green homespun wool. Silk embroidery is disintegrating to reveal canvas ground. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc499054/
Bonnet.
Bonnet of blue silk. Brim is hand-quilted in square corners and curving lines that follow the shape of the brim in even lines. The brim is composed of 3 pieces of silk fabric, which are pieced together and then quilted. Cotton used as batting material throughout. The crown is entirely quilted in rows of horizontal stitching and radiating circles. The tail has L-shaped quilting, which echoes the front edge of the tail. The chin ties are striped silk ribbons. Some areas of fabric loss and shattering on bonnet and ties. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29993/
Child's Ensemble
Child's dress ensemble of tan cotton with green and red/orange floral print consisting of: A) Skirt. Full length; pleated. One-inch waistband of muslin. Right side slit pocket. Center back opening; closures missing. Bottom of inside hem lined in brown glazed cotton; balance of skirt unlined. B) Bodice. Fitted with wide neckline; dropped shoulders. Neckline is trimmed with double row of fluted fabric of self. Short, puffed sleeves with caps trimmed with fluted fabric of same. V-shaped pleats in front. Center back opening closes with 9 hook & eyes. Lined in muslin. C) Fichu. Triangular panels of decreasing size applied to look like pleats. Four-inch epaulets of same with self-covered buttons at ends. Seven self-covered buttons down center back seam with evidence of three missing buttons. Lined in brown glazed cotton. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501305/
Mitts
Pair of black cotton lace mitts. The wrist-length fingerless gloves are of hand-crocheted lace, in a wide mesh. Slight frill at wrist, and separate thumb. A narrow black ribbon is threaded through the cuff, one ribbon lacking. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86986/
Child's Dress
Child's dress of tan flannel with front panel of brown velvet. Long sleeves with 3" cuff of brown velvet. Turndown collar of brown velvet with pointed ends and neckline trimmed in ivory lace; collar partially detaches on right and secures with a hook & eye. Patch pockets at sides of brown velvet. Front panel has 10 tortoise shell buttons to left of panel and right side opening of 11 matching buttons with barred buttonholes. Gored in back with six small pleats at bottom of back. Hem of garment has pleated 4-1/2" border of self trimmed with 1-1/2" band of brown velvet. Lined in tan cotton. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501353/
Fan
Folding fan with mother-of-pearl sticks and guards. Leaf of white needlepoint lace backed3with cream satin. Silver-colored "U" shaped bail ring at bottom. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38032/
Shoes
Pair of shoes of ivory kid leather. Rounded toes, with stitched detailing on tongues and with applied leather bow at instep with many "loops" creating large "poof". Shoes of ivory kid leather. Short, modified Louis heel covered with same leather. Stamped inside left Shoe: "Mayer & Stern/ Phila. / Centennial / 1776-1876" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114765/
Boots
Pair of boots or "High Button Shoes" of black leather. The shoes, designed with rounded toes, button closed along outer side, with 14 domed black glass buttons on each shoe. The low, stacked heels are rounded at sides and back, and are curved at front, and taper slightly to base. Maker's label stamped inside: "The Krippendorf / Dittmann Co. / Cincinnati" Stamped on sole: "3 36" Stamped inside: "36 3 14522" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86985/
Cape
Burnoose-style cape of lavender wool flannel. Mid-skirt length front and back, rounded at bottom to be shorter on each side. Fitted at shoulders. Attached hood gathered around face by use of ribbon ties woven through satin bound buttonholes around border of hood (ribbon missing). Center front opening and hem are trimmed with wide band of pastel green cording in scroll design. Closure of matching satin ribbon ties at neckline. Lined in pastel green satin. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501296/
Reticule
Reticule. Drawstring handbag/purse of black knit with openwork band along top through which drawstring is threaded. Running around center of bag are three horizontal bands of blue beads bordered by silver/gold lined beads. Lower part of the bag is completely covered by horizontal bands of silver/gold lined beads and blue beads. Bottom of bag with large sphere covered with blue beads from which hangs tassel of silver/gold lined bead loops. Unlined. Has been dated 1880-1890 or ca. 1916. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30063/
Pumps
Pair of plum purple satin pumps. The shoes are designed with a rounded toe, and plain uppers. The low heel is of a modified Louis or Cuban style, set in, and covered with matching fabric. Partly lined in white kidskin leather. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38992/
Fan
Folding fan with 17 bone sticks; white lace with round and clover leaf shaped silver sequins. Sticks carved with tiny flower and dot designs on 8 sticks and leaf and curly designs on 9 sticks. Back of fan is not decorated. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38096/
Wedding Slippers
Pair of wedding slippers of ivory kid leather. The shoes are designed with rounded toes, and have a large matching bow with layered ends, and a large ruffle of same across vamp. Uppers are edged with satin ribbon. Modified Louis or Cuban heel, flaring at base. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114887/
Boots
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of black leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, lace closed along center front with laces 13 holes high. At top of toe box is decorative seaming creating a "V" shape. The low, stacked heels styled as a modified Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, tapering at center then flaring very slightly at base, and with curved front section. Sole of black leather. Lined in cream cloth and black leather. Partly illegible retailer's(?) mark stamped inside uppers: "Linkhau... / Memphis Tenn" Handwritten notation inside uppers: "236 6788" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39028/
Capelet
Capelet of black silk satin. The short cape is trimmed along hem with 3-1/2" band of pleated organza and band of jet beads. Standing neckline trimmed in pleated organza. Center front opening with closure of five hook & eyes, with bow of black silk satin moire with trailing ends attached to right side of opening at throat. Shoulder yoke bordered in tightly gathered narrow band of black organza. Bright purple moire silk lining. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501286/
Child's Dress
Child's dress of navy blue calico with rose colored paisley print. Long sleeves with caps at shoulders. Empire waistline; full length. Standing collar trimmed with ivory lace. Center front opening with 6 circular brass, concave buttons with red painted centers decorated with silver circles and a star. Back panel in Watteau style and forms a small train. Upper part of dress lined in blue cotton with small white flowers. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501313/
Fan
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38040/
Shoes
Pair of heeled shoes of ivory kid leather. The shoes are designed with pointed toes, rounded at the tips. Vamp with beading decoration in white/crystal beads in patterns of scrolls, laurel, stars, etc. Modified Louis heel covered in same leather. Retailer's label: "Made / for / Kahn's / in / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114965/
Slippers
Pair of party slippers of pale pink silk satin. Shoes have rounded toes, and wide self strap across instep, which secures with domed coral-colored button on outside edge. Strap, vamp, and upper edges of shoe are edged in slightly darker pink silk ribbon. 1 3/4" high modified Louis or cuban heel. Marked inside shoe: "3-C" (size?) digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38985/
Slippers
Pair of lady's slippers of brown kid leather with jet beading. Designed with pointed toes, the uppers are of brown kid leather, heavily decorated with radiating patterns of jet beads, over toe, around sides and throughout openwork that decorates throat and sides of shoes. Originally had sewn-in ties across the instep. Lined in black leather. Soles of black leather. High heels are of modified French style, sometimes called "spool" style, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front. There are no marks or labels in the shoes. The brown ribbons in photographs are not original, are to hold the shoe closed in place of original ribbons, now missing. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39007/
Sunbonnet
Sunbonnet of brown linen. Made of a plain weave with both white and brown threads, the hat has pasteboard staves within the brim, a crenelated buttoning crown and long tail. The crown and tail are separate pieces, sewn together at neck seam, with the tail fastening to the sides of the brim by 3 off-white buttons on each side. The tail is semi-circular in shape, and the narrow chin ties are hemmed by hand. Poke-style bonnets are generally those that have brims stiffened either through quilting or plain starched fabric. Sunbonnets that rely on staves for brim support are not considered poke-style sunbonnets. The TFC thanks Rebecca Jumper Matheson for her research on this object. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30075/
Sunbonnet
Sunbonnet of white cotton broadcloth. The hat has a square-shaped brim with an outer layer of off-white weave material with a plain-weave backing, and crocheted trim. The brim is thin and does not appear to contain much stiffening material or starch. The crenelated crown fastens to brim by a series of 9 buttons on top and 2 buttons on each side. The crown is trimmed with the same crocheted trim as is the brim. The crown and tail are of a made of a single length of fabric. The TFC thanks Rebecca Jumper Matheson for her research on this object. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30065/
Wedding Boots
Pair of lady's wedding boots of ivory silk or satin. Designed with pointed toes, the short boots fasten up the outer sides of each shoe with eleven buttons. The button lining is of ivory leather. The remaining lining is of ivory cloth with the upper portion silk or satin. Natural light brown leather sole; Heels are in the style of a Louis heel, rounded at sides and back, concave and flaring slightly to base. Handwritten notation on inner lining: "59576". Stamped on sole near heel: "6587". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39010/
Wedding Shoes
Wedding shoes of off-white or champagne satin. The shoes have rounded toes, and no ornamentation. The medium-high heel is set under, is rounded at back and sides and curved at front, tapers to center and then swells to base, and is covered with matching satin; it has the same natural brown colored leather on the heel's cap and on the soles of the shoes. Stamped inside both shoes: "2 D13583" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39016/
Wedding Slippers
Pair of wedding slippers of off-white kid leather. The shoes are designed with a slightly pointed toe, rounded at tip, with large off-white satin rosette at vamp. Modified Louis or Cuban heel. Size 3B digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114836/
Shoes
Shoes of ecru silk. Slightly pointed with rounded toe. Strap of self fabric across instep, fastening with button on outside of foot with rounded pearl-like glass button. 1 3/8" high Louis style heel. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38984/
Cape
Ripple style waist-length cape of black wool felt with yoke of five rows of black satin ribbon and 6" middle tier of black lace. Ruffled stand-up collar of black silk gauze. Secures at center front neckline with two hook & eyes and ties of black satin ribbon. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501333/
Bonnet
Child's sunbonnet of white cotton. Cotton streamer ties. Channel stitching and eyelet lace ruffle on stiffened visor/brim. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87049/
Bonnet
Child's sunbonnet of white cotton with eyelet brim, ruffles, apron. Rolled cording embellishment. Ties of self. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87050/
Beaded Bag
Handbag. Rectangular bronze frame chased with scrolling floral forms. Ball/snap closure and bronze chain. Body of purse of off-white woven cloth covered in beaded design of red, pink, green, black, and white in an American Indian or possibly Caucasian motifs. Originally lined in pink silk. Frame is marked "Germany". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30073/
Bonnet
Infant's bonnet of white cotton, possibly as part of a christening set. Lace inset and tucking near brim. Gathered shell. Ties of self. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87048/
Bonnet
Child's sunbonnet of white cotton. Channel-stitched. Corded brim that also stiffens and shapes bonnet. Long curtain of same. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87054/
Bonnet
Child's poke-type bonnet of white silk. Completely shirred and trimmed with white satin ribbon, outlined with lace. High crown to which circular shirred flange has been added. Label inside crown mostly illegible; last word is "Chicago". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277051/
Boots
Pair of lady's boots of black leather and wool broadcloth. The "high button shoes" are designed with pointed toes gently rounded at tips. The lower part, including vamp, are of black leather. The upper part is of black wool broadcloth edged at scalloped top with black leather, and with black leather accent band running from heel partly up the back of the boot. The boots lace up along the front with 20 holes. Lined at top with reddish/orange fabric, the body of the shoe lined in white fabric. High heels are rounded at sides and back, flaring slightly to base, and curved at front. Black leather soles. Stamped notation inside: "3 1/2 B R251" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39009/
Boots
Pair of boots or "High Button Shoes" of black leather. The shoes, designed with rounded pointed toes, lace closed along center front with laces 16 holes high. The low, stacked heels are rounded at sides and back, and are curved at front. The sole is of black leather. Shoes are lined in black leather and off-white cloth. The base of the heel is of black rubber(?) with molded grips. Manufacturer's mark molded into heel: "[Image of a walking man] / Healthway / USA". Stamped into sole: "Combination / Last" Handwritten notation on lining: "4/1/6 18261* / 51|23" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39027/
Boots
Pair of boots or "High Button Shoes" of gray/silver lamé cloth. The shoes, designed with pointed toes rounded at the tips, lace closed along center front with laces 18 holes high. The high heels are rounded at sides and back, tapering to center and flaring back out at base, and are curved at front. They are covered with the lamé fabric on the back and sides. The sole is of tan and brown leather, as is the cap on the heel. Shoes are lined in off-white cloth. Hand-written notation on inside lining, partly illegible: "37 / .... / 911" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39017/
Boots
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of black and tan leather. The lower section of the shoes, designed with pointed toes, are of black leather. The upper sections, of tan leather, close along center front with laces, 17 holes high. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Sole of black and tan leather. Stamped on sole: "TEDCO / Trade Mark" Stamped on lining: "435 72307 4" and "Tedco" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39018/
Boots
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of tan leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, are of tan leather which close along center front with laces, 19 holes high. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Heels covered with matching leather. Sole of tan leather. Stamped on lining: "H.Seligmann / Seguin, Tex." and "356 10146" Stamped on sole is a wreath containing an image of a shoe and label "Duchess". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39019/
Boots
Pair of boots or "High Button Shoes" of brown leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes rounded at the tips, lace closed along center front with laces 16 holes high. The medium height, stacked heels are rounded at sides and back, and are curved at front, tapering slightly to ground. The sole is of tan leather. The shoes are lined in off-white cloth. The base of the heel is of brown rubber(?) with molded marks. Maker's mark in sole: "Hamilton-Brown / Makers / [illeg] Molded into heel: "Cushion Comfort Heel 2" Stamped in lining: "450 24512H" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39014/
Child's Dress
Child's "apron" dress of woven red and blue striped flannel with collar and one box pleat in front. Center front opening with snap at neckline. No belt - possibly missing. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501365/
Handbag
Handbag. Rectangular frame of cast openwork brass floral designs with traces of gilding. Ball and snap closure and gilt brass suspension chain. Bag is of dark purple crocheted silk, with three different types of beading. Area at frame is plain all-over beading of purple/bronze iridescent cut beads. Below this, and at bottom of bag is fringe of looped beading. The main body of the bag has vertical stripes of beads arranged in horizontal rows. Lined with bright purple silk, trimmed in gold cording. Contains a small gold kid leather purse embossed with a stylized thorn pattern. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30207/
Mourning Ensemble - Bodice and Skirt
Black silk mourning ensemble consisting of bodice and skirt. The bodice of black silk is fitted and boned, with a high, standing black silk band collar with appliqued black lace medallions. It has full-length, modified bishop sleeves that gather into the armseye. Below the gathered cap, in the portion corresponding to the upper arm, the fullness of the sleeve is controlled with top-stitched vertical tucks. From the elbow to the cuff the fullness is again released in a bishop sleeve silhouette. The sleeves gather again into wide black silk cuffs with appliqued black lace medallions and four narrow bands of black velvet ribbon. The bodice front is constructed on the lines of a bolero jacket, with a deep V-shaped opening and wide ruffled collar which is constructed of horizontally tucked black crepe-patterned silk. The released fullness of the tucking creates the ruffled finish. The ruffled portion is edged with two narrow bands of black velvet ribbon. The bodice front has a bib fill of gathered black silk and tulle net that is secured with hook-and-eyes beneath the left collar overlay. The fill area disguises the true front opening which is secured with thirteen hook-and-eyes. The main body of the bodice, front and back, is constructed of vertically tucked black silk that finishes in a wide black silk waistband which is appliqued with black lace medallions and edged in narrow black velvet ribbon. The waistband laps slightly left of center and secures with three hook-and-eyes. The bodice is fully lined with heavily boned glazed black cotton and has figure enhancing pads sewn over the bust and underarm areas and has a black cotton petersham that hooks at center front. There are two hooks at back waist-level to connect the bodice to the skirt. The matching seven-panel gored skirt is of black silk and has a narrow waistband with center back placket opening secured with three hook-and-eyes. The rear fullness pleats into the waistband and disguises the opening. Two rear hooks at the waistline connect the skirt to the bodice. The full hem is embellished with seven horizontal rows of narrow black velvet ribbon. The hem is faced with black velvet, and there is a built-in bustle pad. There are no labels in the garment. The mourning dress originally belonged to Margaret Louise Walker (b.1840-d.1903), who lived on the Walker Plantation outside of Aberdeen. Mississippi. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30264/
Mourning Fan
Folding mourning fan. Guards and sticks of plain black wood, shaped but not adorned. The leaf is of plain black cloth. No visible labels, marks or signatures. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38050/
Pumps
Pumps of gray suede. Shoes have a slightly rounded toe, and a wide strap across vamp to which is applied a large gray ribbon bow with central silver-colored metal rectangular buckle shape. Medium 1 3/4' high modified Louis or cuban heel. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38993/
Riding Boots
Pair of lady's riding boots of black/dark brown leather. The "high button shoes" are designed with pointed toes gently rounded at tips, the boots lace up along the back with 12 holes/hooks. Lined in white fabric. High heels are rounded at sides and back, flaring slightly to base, and curved at front. Black leather soles. Hand-written note: "3-13 / 38405 / 413" Retailer's label stamped in gilt, mostly illegible: "Portland Ore" Brand stamped in gilt: "STEPINSHU / Trade Mark / Pat. Applied" Stamped in sole: "WICHERT" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39006/
Shoes
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of tan calf leather and tan cloth (canvas?). The shoes, designed with pointed toes, close along center front with laces, 19 holes high. Lower section of shoes are of tan leather, embellished with tiny holes along stitching lines and in scrolling motifs at toe-boxes. Upper parts of shoes are of heavy tan fabric, likely canvas. High heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Sole of tan leather. Stamped on lining: "16 0 21632X" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38981/
Shoes
Pair of white satin ladies' shoes. Styled with pointed-toes, the white satin upper has tabs which extend across the instep to form closure. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Back and sides of heel covered in matching leather. Lined in white leather. Natural brown leather sole. Retailer's stamp inside: "Sanger Bros. / Dallas & Waco." Maker's code stamped inside: "35 - 2 36463" Stamped on sole: "35 - / 2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38988/
Shoes
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38995/
Shoes
Pair of lady's shoes of black kid leather and broadcloth. The "high button shoes" have black leather toe boxes with pointed toes and black leather sections at heels which extend from heel up the back of the shoe. The uppers are of black wool broadcloth. Shoes secure at outside edges with 12 circular, slightly domed black buttons. Upper edges lined with black leather, the rest lined with white cloth. The medium-height heel is rounded at sides and back, and squared-off at front. Although not technically a "stacked" heel, the layers can be seen. Maker's label sewn into lining at top: "Wichert / Shoe / Trade Mark / New York U.S.A." Retailer's gilt stamp on inside edge: "Norton's / Gainesville, Tex." Handwritten notation inside boot, just below upper edge: "36-1 36752 / 330". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39008/
Shoes
Pair of lady's shoes of black leather. The shoes, designed as oxford style shoes with pointed toes, are of black leather which close along center front with laces, 6 holes high. High heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Heels covered with matching leather. Sole of black leather. There are no marks or labels on the shoes. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39020/
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