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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Country: United States
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Pumps
Pumps of black velvet. The shoes are designed with gently pointed toe and plain uppers. A narrow band of low-pile area outlines the foot opening. The 3 1/8" high spike heel is covered with the same velvet as the upper. Designer's stamp inside: "Andrew Geller / Exquisite Footwear" Retailer's label inside: "Neiman-Marcus" Handwritten inside: "5 1/2 aa / 49199 / S9013a" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87020/
Pillbox Hat
Hat with pillbox style crown. Crown of green netting is covered with fuchsia and orange velvet flowers. Inner headband of green grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label: "John Andrew / San Francisco" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286798/
Boots
Pair of black suede boots. Ankle-height boots of black suede, with pointed toes and decorative stitch accent at opening. Black suede tassel on heel from opening. 2 1/4" high "stacked" spike heel of black leather(?). Upper is lined in black leather, inner sole lined with red leather. Sole of dark brown leather. Stamped in each shoe: "Anne Klein / New York". Stamped on sole: "Anne / Klein / Made in Italy / 7 1/2 / M" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39040/
Coat
Coat of skunk fur. Hip length, of solid black fur in vertical stripes, with center front opening having three hook-and-eye closures. Elbow-length sleeves. Two slit pockets at hips. Lined in black silk crepe. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Annis Furs / Detroit" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503768/
Gloves
Pair of gloves of ivory colored leather. On back of each glove is a stitched swirl design of 5 ribs. The gloves widen to end with piped hems, and extend to about mid-forearm. Appears to be a youth size. Stamped inside gloves: A) "ARIS" logo in hemisphere; "U.S. Pat. / Aug. 22'22"; and with various stamped numbers inside the glove for sewing and matching pieces. B) "5 3/4"; "U.S. Pat. / Sept 19'22 / Made in Germany"; and with various stamped numbers inside the glove for sewing and matching pieces. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87118/
Cloche
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39099/
Toque
Hat of green straw. The toque style hat is formed of a high, cylindrical crown of woven green straw with raised outer rim at top and central shallow domed area. Around the shallow domed area is an acid-green woven ribbon band, tied with a bow with trailing ends at back of hat. Around the inside base of the crown is a band of the same woven ribbon which projects down slightly below the edge of the crown. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of green grosgrain ribbon around inside lower edge of crown. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Exclusive / Jean Arlett / Creations". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39197/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of royal blue velvet. The low, cylindrical crown has a flattened top with a self-covered domed button at top center, and one large horizontal "tuck" around the side forming two sections. The whole is overlaid with a navy blue net veil. Lined in black, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Maker's label inside: "Arlington / Hats / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402496/
Dress
Dress of brown/beige coffee-colored wool. The short, A-line dress with shallow boat-neckline, short, cap-sleeves. Front and back of dress with diamond-shaped motif created by slot seams with cream background/under layer. Similar seaming across top of sleeves and joining diamond motifs around sides. Center back zipper with hook-and-eye at neckline. Lined in off-white silk(?). Designer's label: "Jean Marie Armand / Paris / Made in France" Retailer's label: "Made in France especially for / Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286912/
Ensemble
Bright red/orange wool dress and coat ensemble from 1st collection. a) Coat of bright red/orange wool. Long sleeves and collared neckline. Double breasted with large, covered snaps on inside as closure. Two pockets formed from panels on coat. Lined in red acetate. Designer's label at inside, back neckline: "Jean Marie Armand / Paris / Made in France" b) Dress . Bracelet length sleeves and jewel neckline. Knee length. Center front zipper. Hourglass shaped front panel forms pockets at left and right. Lined in red acetate. Designer's label at inside, back neckline: "Jean Marie Armand / Paris / Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286926/
Hat
Hat of black straw. The hat is formed as a wide, shallow domed crown, overlaid with "fringe" sewn in a dense spiral from the top center rosette, creating tiers/layers. Brimless, the crown rests on the head, with black straw covered arched bands to help secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label inside: "Lee Bury / Hats / of Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461769/
Hat
Hat of multi-colored straw. Based on a beret, the hat consists of a crown of finely woven straw in bands of dark blue, red, white, and dark blue. The crown is formed as a flattened sphere, surmounted by a small sphere of dark blue velvet. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of dark blue/black grosgrain ribbon around the inside base of the crown. Brand label sewn to inner hatband: "Lee Bury / Hats". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39169/
Hat
Hat of gray felt. The cylindrical gray felt crown is very slightly domed, and is set off-center to the brim. The brim, of matching felt, turns up, forming a deep, steep-sided bowl around the crown. The edge of the brim turns in, and is sewn down forming a seam around the inside edge of the "bowl". At left front of the brim is a bow of matching felt. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of gray grosgrain ribbon around the inside base of the crown. Stamped inside the crown: "Body made in Italy". Maker's hand-sewn(?) label affixed to inner hatband: "Jo Bailey / Hats". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39237/
Hat
Hat of black velvet with cording detail. The domed crown is encircled at base with a band of black cord-work, with a bow at back with trailing ribbon. The circular brim turns up at edge, which is embellished with same cording as base of crown. Lined in ribbed orange red fabric, with a black grosgrain inner ribbon hatband, and with an elastic cord to help secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's hand-sewn label inside crown: "Jo Bailey / Hats" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87067/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of beige and bronze velvet. The low, circular crown of bronze velvet has inter-twined bands of bronze and beige velvet around it in a draped or swagged style. At front is applied a small bow made of the two velvets. Inner hatband of beige grosgrain ribbon. Affixed to the ribbon, one at each side, is a small plastic comb to secure the hat to the wearer's hair. The hat is lined in green fabric. Glued into the crown lining is a homemade(?) hand embroidered label: "Jo Bailey Hats" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283693/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox style hat of pink silk gabardine. Four horizontal pleats around front of brim form zigzag folds at sides. Slightly rounded top. Center back has hanging tab ending in tie bow of self. 2-1/4'' deep crown CF; 3 1/2'' deep CB. Lined in white silk with pink grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Two combs at sides for securing hat to wearer's head. Maker's label hand embroidered on inside crown: "Jo Bailey Hats" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305422/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of striped fabric. The low-crowned cylindrical hat is covered in a gray fabric having red, green, black, white, and gold stripes reminiscent of a man's tie. Around the crown the fabric is pleated and draped, giving the effect of a low turban. Lined in a pink satin, with dusty rose pink grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Glued into the crown lining is a homemade(?) hand embroidered label: "Jo Bailey Hats" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30292/
Calotte Hat
Calotte hat of brown velvet. One hatpin with black, avocado shaped head. Brim and top center seam meet to form V-shaped opening. Designer's label on inside hat band: "Balenciaga Hats . Paris" Retailer's label beneath designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39200/
Ensemble
Ensemble in black and oatmeal colored wool, consisting of: A) Jacket: Semi-fitted wool in abstracted herringbone weave with black and oatmeal yarns running double throughout; moderately rounded neckline with asymmetrical mandarin collar; full-length raglan sleeves with overarm seam and undersleeve; double breasted front opening with eight round, plastic, oatmeal colored buttons and four bound buttonholes supplemented by single hook & eye inside lap at waist; vertical welt pockets on front lined in black silk; fully lined in black silk. Designer's label at inside collar: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris" and "Made in France". Retailer's label at inside side seam: "Neiman-Marcus" B) Dress: Knee length dress; bodice of black wool gauze with jewel neckline; sleeveless; lapped centerfront opening with four round self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes supplemented by single snap and hook & eye; bodice gathers into seam at natural waistline; gathered hip yoke of same gauze; straight skirt of matching herringbone has three snaps at centerfront opening; folded hem; gauze is lined in black silk organdy; skirt is unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30045/
Ensemble - Coat, Tunic, and Pants
Ensemble consisting of: a) Coat of silver lame with jeweled buttons lined in same black wool jersey as dress. b) Tunic top of black wool jersey. Sleeveless with two side slit pockets. Closure at back with two snaps and self-covered buttons. Lined in black silk. c) Pants of heavy black wool jersey. Double side zippers. Designer Label: "EISA" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30141/
Ensemble - Dress and Jacket
Ensemble of oatmeal colored wool tweed: a) Jacket of beige and black wool tweed with V-neckline with standard notched collar and wide lapels; short, princess seams; 3/4 length, set in, two piece sleeves; double breasted opening with four round, plastic, beige buttons and two bound buttonholes supplemented by single large covered snap inside lap at waist; fully lined in beige silk. Label stitched inside back neck below collar. b) Dress of same; sleeveless; falling just below the knee; deep rounded neckline; empire waist seam; straight skirt has slight gathers in front; left side underarm zipper closure supplemented by single hook&eye closure; folded hem; armhole and neck facings; brassiere strap keepers snap inside shoulders; unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30050/
Skirt Suit
Two-piece gray faille moire wool and nylon suit. Jacket is long, with wide notched collar, is double breasted, has bound button holes, and buttons below waist. It has a sculptural double-breasted front panel, that maintains a vertical linear center front, rounded shape visually flanks stomach area. The skirt is straight; slightly below knee length. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30019/
Cocktail Dress
Cocktail dress of large plaid orange, green, purple, and red raw and china silk. The dress is sleeveless, ankle-length, with red/orange raw silk halter-top bodice, "shawl" of same which is attached at mid-back and drapes over shoulders and across front. Lined in pale green. Skirt of dress is of silk, with large, plaid squares of reds, oranges, greens, and purples. Attached cummerbund style belt which buttons in back with 5 self-covered buttons and loops. Center back zipper Lined in light gold organza. Combined designer's/retailer's label at left side seam of lining near hem: "Gump's / San Francisco / Gibson Bayh / Original" Accompanying petticoat formed of three full-length layers of red, purple, and green silk. Each layer with hem band of grosgrain ribbon in a different color, and each with deep net ruffle at hem, also edged with grosgrain ribbon. Center back zipper with two hook & eyes on 1" waistband. Combined designer's/retailer's label at center back waistband: "Gump's / San Francisco / Gibson Bayh / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503797/
Dress
Dress of olive green knit with long raglan sleeves. V-neckline with right side panel wrapping over to left and ending at left-front side. Skirt has panel wrapping over to right and ending at right-front side and creating a flap. Lower mid-length. Center-back zip closure with single gold plated button closure at back neck band. Padded shoulders. Unlined. Designer's label at back neckline: "Geoffrey Beene" Union label, cleaning instructions and size tag together at center back seam towards hem. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283721/
Ensemble - Blouse and Pants
Ensemble. Blouse/Top of black satin, slightly cropped, with short sleeves. Top is covered in sequins in wide horizontal black bands, red bands, and "plaid" band of bugle beads and smaller sequins. Wide red bands at sleeve ends. Pointed black satin collar and placket center front opening with 4 faceted, conical clear jeweled buttons. Lined in black satin. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Geoffrey Beene / New York" Pants of black synthetic fiber. Full-length. High waisted; higher at front than back. Slit pockets at sides, with large pocket flaps, with a matching jewel button at each lower corner. Center back zipper. Lined in black crepe. Designer's label at inside back waistband, near zipper: "Geoffrey Beene / New York" Size label: "4" Care label: "Dry Clean / Only" Union label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503785/
Evening Dress
Evening dress of yellow jacquard rayon with paisley design. Floor length; cap sleeves; collar. Center back zipper. Deep inverted pleat in front starts just below the bust. Princess seams and side slit pockets. Lined in yellow silk. Designer's label at inside back by zipper: "Geoffrey Beene" Accompanied by a detachable bow in matching fabric. Clips onto V-neck just below the collar or possibly at center front pleat below bust or in hair. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501358/
Hostess Ensemble
Hostess ensemble of cotton sateen in lime green floral and paisley print over navy background consisting of: A) Top with bodice in modified halter style and long, flared bottom. Top extends below hips giving the appearance of a gathered skirt with empire waist. Left side zipper closure with hook & eye and 3 hook & eyes on left shoulder. Trimmed in navy braided tape around all outer edges and at seam of bodice. Lined in white organdy with white grosgrain ribbon petersham at gathered waist. Designer's label at center back: "Geoffrey Beene". B) Pants. Full length with flared bottoms. Center front zipper with hook & eye. Hem trimmed in matching navy braid. Designer's label at center back: "Geoffrey Beene" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501374/
Calotte
Calotte of green velvet and feathers. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the shaped cap has a stiff woven tan straw under-structure, and is covered with green velvet, over which is layered turquoise and teal feathers, and clusters of green velvet buds/berries and leaves. The hat is unlined, allowing the under-structure to be seen, and has a green grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. At sides are two small combs to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Martin Belasco / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286792/
Calotte Hat
Calotte of dark brown silk faille. Three touching bows of same around sides and front of crown with V point in back. Lined in net with brown grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Designer's label: "Martin Belasco / New York" Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305347/
Hatlet
Hatlet of black velvet. The headpiece is formed as a stiffened black velvet band which has a large black velvet bow at each end. Designer's label: "Martin Belasco" Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286833/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox style hat covered in navy feathers with white tips over a crown of navy felt. Inner headband of blue grosgrain ribbon. Maker's label on inside headband: "Frank M. Benson" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286827/
Hat
Hat of black and white neora synthetic straw. Styled as a modified breton hat, the high domed crown is of woven black synthetic straw with white woven synthetic straw accents. The wide, matching brim is set off-center to the crown, wider at front than back, and is rolled up, forming a deep trough around the crown. At the front of the hat, affixed to the visible upturned underside of the brim is a large black plastic button with a black silk tassel extending from the center. The hat is lined in black mesh, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband around the inside base of the crown. Manufacturer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Beresford". United Hatters Cap and Millinery Workers International Union sewn to inner hatband, with number "798738". Accompanied by a single short hatpin with simulated black pearl head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39187/
Day Dress
Day dress of black, blue, gray and yellow nylon jersey knit. Elbow length, set-in sleeves are black with banded cuffs in gold, yellow, blue and black pattern. Rounded, banded neckline. Knee length. Natural waistline is slightly gathered at sides and back. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Unlined. Signed "Paganne" in pattern of dress. Designer's label at neckline to left of zipper: "Paganne Ltd. / by Gene Berk -8-" Care label at neckline to right of zipper. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503787/
Hat
Sailor hat of natural straw cloth with wide red velvet band and bow under brim formed as part of hatband. Small brim also has narrow band of red velvet around outside edge on top. Size label: "22 1/2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277120/
Hat
Dark orange velvet hat. The shaped crown is roughly square with low peak at top center, constructed of four triangular panels, creating slight "corners" at sides. No brim. Lined in black satin. Accompanied by two hatpins, the heads covered with matching velvet. Designer's label inside: "Original / Roberta Bernays" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402481/
Sandals
Pair of sandals of white leather and cork. The shoes are designed with slightly rounded toes, and five narrow white leather straps across the instep, with another short strap going lengthwise up the instep. The thick cork soles/platforms are "foot shaped", and have a thick chunky heel. Maker's marks stamped inside: "Bertlyn / L 8 8 1/2 1210" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114942/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of black velvet. Small, quilted brim folds up in front and back. One, long tie string of same drapes across front brim and down sides. Black grosgrain ribbon inside hatband. Lined in black fabric. Manufacturer's label on inside hatband: "Betmar / Adj." Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Lord & Taylor / young new yorkers' / hat shop / Fifth Avenue" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283679/
Hat
Hat of black linen. Open crown created by a black ribbon of self encircling what would be the base of the crown, with bow at back. Wide brim, irregular-edged, slightly "waved". Inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Manufacture's label on inside hatband: "Betmar" Union label on inside hatband: "823937" Retailer's stamp on inside hatband: "Weldon's Fort Worth" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286920/
Hat
Hat of black velvet. Soft cylindrical crown has a flattened top, and is encircled at base by a band of black grosgrain ribbon, tied into a bow at side and with trailing ends. Almost circular brim is split at right side, curves down somewhat, and is enhanced by concentric rows of top-stiching. The underside of the brim is lined in white. Designer's label: "Betmar" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286863/
Hat
Hat of black linen. Open crown with wide brim. Thin bow of self on back. Manufacture's label on inside hatband: "Betmar" Union label on inside hatband: "823937" Retailer's stamp on inside hatband: "Weldon's Fort Worth" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114974/
Hat
Hat of ivory fur felt. High, cylindrical crown is slightly peaked at front and rounded at back, with flat top having sunken central area. Base of crown encircled by wide ivory grosgrain ribbon hatband with applied "D" shaped gilt metal rhinestone set buckle form, from which extends ends of ribbon. Narrow brim slants downwards, and is slightly wider in front than back. Hat is unlined, with inner ivory grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label on inner hatband: "Betmar" Maker's stamp inside crown: "Merrimac / Merri Soie"(?) digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501381/
Handbag
Handbag of canvas and brown leather. Adjustable shoulder strap with brass buckle attached with snaps and brass trim and hardware. Flap opening has snap closure and is trimmed with brass design resembling two overlapping circles. Interior lined in brown leatherette. Three interior compartments with one open pocket and one zippered pocket. Front-most compartment is of brown leather and forms a pouch. Designer's stamp: "Bienen -Davis" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330406/
Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of gray fine plaid. A) Jacket of gray fine plaid with an over-layer of black floral lace exposing the plaid; lace has scallop trim 2” above the wrists and hem of the jacket. Jacket has round neckline; 4 gray button closure down center-front; long sleeves with inner shoulder pads; lower hip length; fully lined in black synthetic. B) Skirt of matching plaid with 1 ½” waistband with center-back zip and hook and eye closure; darts at front and back; lined in black synthetic; 17” length. Designer's Label: "Bill Blass" Retailer's label: "Neiman Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286873/
Day Dress
Day dress of bright pink silk brocade in floral design. Bateau neckline. Sleeveless with French darts in bodice. Semi-pleated, below knee skirt. Side slit pockets. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Lined in pink silk with petersham of pink grosgrain with hook & eye. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Bill Blass / for / Maurice Rentner" Union label at center back near bottom of zipper. Retailer's label at center back seam: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501337/
Summer Evening Dress
Summer evening dress of pink and white stripped cotton twill. Full length, with low, rounded/scooped neckline and short, slightly puffed sleeves. Empire waistline. Stripes on the bodice go from top right to lower left; stripes on the full skirt go from top left to lower right. Center back zipper with hook & loop at neckline and at waist. Bodice lined in self, skirt lined in white fine fabric. Designer's label at inside back, near zipper: "Bill Blass / For / Maurice Rentner" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501352/
Dress
Dress of black cotton net embroidered with red, white, tan, brown, green and gold floral designs. Gathered scooped neckline interlaced with narrow, pale green silk grosgrain ribbon and scalloped and embroidered organdy ruffling, which is also used at wrist, waist, hip line and hem. Gathered ankle-length skirt. Left side zipper with hook & eye on lining and snaps on outer net layer. Skirt has additional under layer of black net. Bodice and skirt lined with silk chiffon; black grosgrain ribbon petersham with hook & eye at waist. Designer's label at center back waist: "Christian Dior / Paris / Made In France / Printemps-Ete 1978" and stamped "0I0052" Label attached at base of designer's label: "Made In France" Neiman Marcus size and content label attached at bottom of previous two labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503757/
Ensemble - Blouse and Skirt
Two-piece ensemble of black satin. Blouse of wrap style, with surplice neckline squared at across back and front to collar bones, plunging into a V at front, and with long sleeves. Neckline, hem, and sleeves edged in 2" wide band of trapunto quilting work consisting of 6 rows of stitching. Long sleeves have 3" zippers at cuffs. 1-inch wide attached belt ties in back. Unlined. No labels in bodice. Matching skirt. Black, below-knee length, with narrow waistband into which skirt is gathered. Left side zipper, with hooks and eyes at waistband. Unlined. Inside Label, typewritten on cloth tape: " JUPE 43 011020 NEIMAN MARCUS" or possibly "JUPE 43 OTTO 20 NEIMAN MARCUS" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503812/
Suit - Jacket and Skirt
Suit of black wool consisting of: Jacket of almost hip-length, with no collar; double breasted, with V neckline and 4 buttons center front, in rows of two. Two flap pockets front; two bust darts; Long sleeves with single button cuffs. Built-in shoulder pads, and fully lined. Designer's label at inside back neck: "Christian Dior / The Suit / Paris New York" Care label below Designer's label: "Dry Clean / Made in U.S.A." Content label at side seam: "100% / Pure Wool"; "Professionally / Dry Clean / Low Moisture / Steam Press" Skirt. Calf length, with narrow waistband. Knife pleated, with side zipper and button. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501315/
Calotte Hat
Oval, calotte style hat of faded rose tucked satin with fabric flowers and petals in matching color. Flower at front of hat trimmed with small satin bow at center. Retailer's label on inside back headband: "Bonnette / Highland Park Village" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114993/
Hat
Hat of multi-colored woven wool stripes. Designed somewhat as a toque, the hat has a cylindrical crown, tilted back, with flattened, recessed top and no brim. The fabric of the hat has alternating stripes of white, dark red, red, pink, dark blue, light blue, and gray, with the stripes arranged to form chevrons. lined in thin black fabric, with underlayer of medium gray. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Bonnette / Highland Park Village" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86976/