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UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Texas Fashion Collection
- Evening Dress and Jacket Ensemble
A) Evening dress of white crocheted silk floral lace over ivory chiffon. The full-length strapless sheath dress has a body-skimming silhouette and a straight-line upper edge at bust trimmed with a band of ivory satin. Hemline dips at back, and creates a very slight train effect. Size 8
B) Jacket of double faced ivory silk satin with open-front and shawl collar which extends to waist-length hem. Long dolman sleeves extend to hem with gauntlet cuff with 2 ½” slit. Size 6
Designer's label: "Pamela Dennis / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286884/
Hat of black felt. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the low domed crown has a velvet-like appearance. At front, the edge turns up and back, and is covered with black seed beads. At right side is a group of 7" long fine black stripped feathers accented with 5 red wires. Unlined, with inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Designer's label sewn to inside headband: "Designed for you / by / Derrieux".
Stamped inside of crown: "[coat of arms] / Ruth / Made in Czechoslovakia" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277132/
- Pillbox Hat
Pillbox of beige linen. The low, cylindrical crown is plain, with slight "lapped" edge at bottom. Lined in a fabric with golden threads, edged with gold rickrack. Inner white grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Designer's label: "by Derrieux" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286882/
Cloche hat of tan linen. The off-the-face cloche has a high, domed crown embellished with white saddle stitching along seams. The brim is of the same material, folded up at front and descending down at sides and is turned down at back. At center back is a separation in the brim, with a small tan linen bow between the sections. The hat is unlined, with a brown grosgrain ribbon inner hatband inside the base of the crown.
Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Reproduction / Rose Descat / 22 Rue Royale / Paris";
Second label sewn to inner hatband: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39139/
Hat of red wool felt. Sport style with sectioned, slight gathering at two points on domed crown. Asymmetrical crown with black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Unlined. Inner headband of black grosgrain ribbon and white fabric.
Designer's label on inside headband: "Rose Descat / 22.Rue Royale"
Tag below designer's label: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114782/
Hat of black wool felt in fedora style. Wide brimmed; sunken crown. Red leather trim at crown cut down center with pinking cut and supplemented with wound strands of green leather and braided with wound strands of green leather on opposite side. Ends of hatband are connected with large wooden toggle. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head.
Designer's label: "Rose Descat / 22.Rue Royale" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114869/
Alpine style hat in wine felt with green stitching and crease across center of crown. Wide grosgrain ribbon trim around base of crown of same color as top-stitching. Red feather on one side.
Designer's label: "Rose Descat / 22.Rue Royale"
Tag in hat: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114867/
Hat of royal blue velour. The crown is somewhat domed, of pieced velour, with a band of rolled dark blue satin around the base. The wide brim of matching velour is shaped to dip down and turn up slightly around the crown. The hat is unlined, with a band of dark blue grosgrain ribbon sewn in between the inner edge of the crown and the brim.
Designer's label sewn inside: "Rose Descat / Paris", with a second label sewn to lower edge of designer's: "Made In France". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39140/
- Suit - Jacket and Skirt
Suit (jacket and skirt) of dark brown wool consisting of:
Jacket. Single breasted with notched lapel. The center front opening is slightly angled from top left to lower right and has three circular, dark brown, plastic buttons and tailored buttonholes. Long, set-in sleeves have three nonfunctional, smaller, matching buttons with tailored buttonholes at hem. Torso tapers to fitted, natural waist and flares to hips. Vertical, double welt, very shallow side pockets. Lapel, center front opening and hem of sleeves trimmed in thin, black piping. Princess seaming. Lightly padded shoulders. Lined in black silk jacquard with repeated "Jean Dessés" pattern.
Skirt. Street length; slightly A-lined. Designed to appear as a wrapped skirt with diagonal opening from left hip to right side hem with five nonfunctional buttons matching jacket, and tailored buttonholes. At center front, from knee height to left side hem, is simulated opening backed by same fabric. Opening has black piping matching jacket. Left side zipper with two hook & eyes on narrow waistband. Lined in black silk, with exception of front panel. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501366/
- Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat made of brown net covered with green silk leaves and violet rose buds.
Designer's label on inside hatband: "Made in France / Christian Dior / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39050/
- Cloche Hat
Cloche-style hat of blue/gray feathers. The crown of the hat is made of dark blue mesh overlaid with a mosaic of blue/gray feathers. Brimless, the lower edge of the crown arcs upwards at front and slightly in back. The hat is lined in the mesh, and has an inner hatband at the lower inside edge of the crown.
Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Made In / France", "Christian Dior / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114739/
Daytime coat of beige linen. Single breasted with three cream colored, circular, plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Long, raglan sleeves with 4" cuffs. Notched collar. Street length. Side slit pockets. Lined in black silk.
Designer's label at inside right seam of lining under arm hole: "Christian Dior / Paris / Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc499047/
- Coat Dress
Coat dress of white textured silk; fitted back and loose draped front ending over left bust line with long flange to hem.
Designer's Label at inside center back below collar " Printemps - Ete 1956 / Christian Dior / Paris / Made in France" and stamped on label: "789[(?) last number is illegible]" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114749/
- Coat Dress
Coat dress of navy silk faille with padded hips. Notched collar; single button closure. Long sleeves with vertical pleat across back shoulder to each sleeve hem. Lower mid-length skirt. Two crescent shaped pieces of fabric at hips with faux pocket detail gives the appearance of a separate jacket.
Designer's label on inner right waist side seam: "Christian Dior/ New York/ Original"
Tag above designer's label: "Fall 1949"
Retailer's label on back of neck: "Neiman-Marcus/ Dallas"
Belt of matching navy leather.
Stamped on back of belt: "10 Christian Dior / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283699/
- Coat Dress
Coat dress of brown silk faille in "Ottoman" style. Knee or street length, with turndown collar and slight V neckline. Darts at bust for fit. Four button closures at center front with bound buttonholes, two above and two below waist/belt. Hook and eyes at waistline. Long sleeves with rolled cuffs and underarm gussets. In-seam pockets at sides. Flared skirt, pleated in back. Simulated "shirtwaist" decoration at front of skirt. Unlined.
Designer's label at inside back collar: "Made in / France"; "Autumne-Hiver 1952 / Christian Dior / Paris"; stamped: "2????" [mostly illegible], on label
With matching belt of brown suede. Self-covered buckle of narrow, vertical rectangles secures with hook and bar closure; 1-1/4" wide. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501300/
- Cocktail Dress
Cocktail dress of yellow lace and organza.
The strapless, knee-length dress is of yellow inlay Spanish lace, with a slim line skirt that gathers at empire waist. It has a center back zipper with hook & eye closure at top. The bodice has a built-in corset-like support of boning and white net with white grosgrain ribbon waist band, the whole securing at back with 8 hook & eye closures. Lined in yellow silk.
A removable, wide band of pleated yellow organza with tapered ends embellished with matching lace appliqués attaches with hooks and eyes at the waist of the dress, giving the effect of a narrow stole.
The dress also has an accompanying very large matching yellow organza stole/wrap with matching lace appliqués at each end. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501375/
- Cocktail Dress
Cocktail dress of dark navy blue silk satin. Strapless with fitted bodice. Open pleats over bust with mock bow and attached 14'' wide stole lined with silk organza which drapes over right shoulder and down back. Straight skirt with small inverted pleats at each hip bone, 23 1/2'' long from waist. Center back 24'' zipper closing with hook and eye at top and waist line. French netting, boned bustier with black grosgrain ribbon and hook & eye closure on inside. Skirt is lined to hip front and back with navy taffeta.
Designer's label at center front bottom of bustier: "Christian Dior Original / Made In U.S.A. / Christian Dior - New York, Inc. / Trademark"
Retailer's label to left of designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503786/
- Cocktail Ensemble - Dress and Jacket
Cocktail ensemble of silver (pale lavender?) heavy faille moire consisting of:
A) Cocktail dress. 3/4 length. Sleeveless with thin straps. Shallow V-neck. Natural waist with a bias cut, 1-1/4" set-in waistband between skirt and bodice trimmed with a center, non-functioning gray plastic button. Fitted bust with gores at bust and under-arm. Inverted pleats at front and back center. Center back zipper closure with hook & eye closure at base of bodice. Cream satin lining in bust which descends to become sheath inside skirt. Skirt lined with net.
Designer's label at inside center bust: "Made in France / Autumne-Hiver 1952 / Christian Dior / Paris"
Stamped "20445" on label.
Handwritten label behind designer's label: "250516"
B) Matching bolero jacket. Cropped to waist, long sleeves. No collar. Slight V at top of neckline, with deeper "inset" V at bottom. Center front opening with 3 circular gray buttons at base of jacket. Lined in cream silk matching lining of dress.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Made in France / Autumne-Hiver 1952 / Christian Dior / Paris"
Stamped "20446" on label.
Handwritten label behind designer's label: "250517" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501348/
- Day Dress
Day dress of red ribbed wool. Squared neckline; 3/4 length sleeves. Set-in waistline with attached 1-1/2" wraparound belt that closes in back with 2 hook & eyes and a snap. Below knee length. Center front opening with 7 hook & eyes on waistband and 7 red, circular, plastic buttons and bound buttonholes below waistband. Lined in red silk; bodice lining is sleeveless with center front zipper closure.
Designer's label at right seam of bodice lining: "Automne-Hiver 1953 / Christian Dior / Paris / Made in France" and stamped on designer's label: "36416"
Style number label under designer's label, illegible: "--6--4" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc499031/
- Day Dress
Day dress of brown silk damask in fine diamond pattern. The dress is in wrap-around style, with asymmetric neckline with wide, shawl collar on the left. Street length. Opening buttons on bodice at left with 4 circular, brown buttons and bound buttonholes, hook & eye at natural waist and two snaps where skirt attaches to peplum. Peplum is asymmetric and longer on left. Long dolman sleeves with underarm gussets and folded back cuffs. With matching belt. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503740/
- Daytime Ensemble - Dress and Jacket
Daytime ensemble of brown silk consisting of:
A) Dress. Below-knee length, the dress has princess seaming to create fitted bodice, with wide V-neckline, 3/4" shoulder straps and straight skirt. 1" belt of self fabric from front darts to center back. Center back zipper. Unlined.
Designer's label: "Christian Dior Original / Made in U.S.A. / Christian Dior - New York Inc."
Retailer's label: "Harzfeld's / Kansas City"
B) Jacket. Cropped jacket is pleated in front and back to a 3" waistband on which are three brass buttons 1/2" wide, and bound buttonholes. Long sleeves with 1-1/2" cuffs and one matching button per sleeve. Band collar has 10" tie ends and L-shaped lapel. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc498980/
Halter-style dress of black wool. V-neck, very low back, sleeveless, buttons up back. Straight skirt with drapery over hips and in front.
Country of Origin Label: " Made in France " located on front neckline at right center.
Designers Label at inside left on construction detail: " Made in France / Automne - Hiver 1952 / Christian Dior / Paris " digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114907/
Dress of blue/gray silk satin or peau de soie, in shirtwaist style. Notched collar. Self covered button at center front with bound buttonhole. Waist seam; 3/4 length skirt with pleats on front and back of skirt. Half-length sleeves with self covered button, turn-back cuffs and bound buttonhole. Armhole princess seams front and back. Tucks on front and back bodice. Center back zipper. Lined in blue organdy with 1/2" blue grosgrain ribbon petersham. With belt of self-fabric forming a bow at center front with hook & eye and snap closure.
Designer's label at center back seam below zipper: "Christian Dior - New York, Inc." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501295/
Halter-style dress of black wool. Below-knee-length, with wide strap running from front up and behind neck. Straight neckline at front, with very low rounded edge at back - almost to mid-back. Center front with draped effect at waist, appearing "pulled" from hips, and with central front drape. 2 large pleats from waist at back. Center back opening with 5 self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes, supplemented with hook & eye at top and two hook & eyes at waist, and with zipper under edge of pleat at right of center back. Inner bodice of black net has boning and closes at center back with hook & eyes. Skirt lined in black silk.
Country of Origin Label: "Made in France" located on front neckline at right center.
Designer's Label at inside left on construction detail: "Made in France / Automne - Hiver 1952 / Christian Dior / Paris" and stamped "20951". Has handwritten style number tag beneath designer's label (mostly illegible): "50938"
Retailer's label at back seam of skirt: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503799/
Daytime dress of red silk faille. Street length. Short sleeves with turned-back edge. Shawl collar with button-down ends at front. Center front opening of 6 circular faceted red plastic buttons. Skirt gathers/pleats at waistline. Side slit pockets. Bodice partly lined in red silk. Red grosgrain ribbon petersham with hook & eye.
Designer's label at right side seam: "Christian Dion Original / Made in U.S.A. / Christian Dior - New York Inc. / Trademark"
Retailer's label at left side seam of skirt: "Neiman-Marcus".
With accompanying belt of red leather covered with matching red silk faille. Elongated oval buckle covered with red silk faille except for tongue, which is enameled red.
Designer's stamp on back: "Christian Dior / New York, Inc." and size, partly illegible. 10 or 12. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503823/
- Ensemble - Blouse and Skirt
Ensemble of navy ribbed silk.
A) Blouse in New Look style with V-shaped neckline and 1" collar. Elbow length sleeves with 1" folded cuffs. Center front opening with hook & eye closure. Patch pockets at side hips. Unlined; petersham of black grosgrain ribbon with hook & eye.
Designer's label at left side seam: "Christian Dior Original / Made In U.S.A. / Christian Dior-New York Inc."
B) Skirt of matching silk. Street length, A lined with pleats at 1" waistband. Center back zipper. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503762/
- Ensemble - Blouse, Skirt, Belt, Purse
Cocktail or dinner dress ensemble of pale blue/green satin brocade with design of acanthus and thistle/leaf in dark green and golden yellow, consisting of:
A) Blouse. Short sleeves with 2" rolled cuffs and shawl collar. Center front opening has 4 self-covered buttons above waist, and 6 hook-and-loops below waist on peplum for securing into skirt. Fitted seaming and pleats centered on waist. Unlined.
Label inside top at left side seam: "Made in France / Christian Dior / Paris" and stamped on label: "05456"
B) Skirt of matching brocade. The mid-length skirt is double box pleated from narrow waistband. Center back zipper with hook-and-eyes at waistband. Unlined.
C) Petticoat of ivory moiré satin. Mid-length, with narrow waistband. Center back zipper with hook-and-eye at waistband.
E) Belt of green silk-covered ivory leather with rectangular silk-covered buckle. (not in photographs)
D) Purse of green silk. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501316/
- Ensemble - Blouse, Skirt, Camisole
Ensemble of navy-blue and slightly lighter silk organza composed of vertical hand-faggoted bands of alternating shades of blue giving light and dark effect.
A) Blouse. Waist length with extending peplum to tuck under skirt. V-neckline, with collar of flat reveres with faggoted border. Short sleeves with turned-back cuffs. Center front opening with 4 self-covered buttons, a snap at the natural waistline, and 1 hook and loop and 5 hooks and eyes on peplum. The stripes and peplum are lined in pale gray organza, leaving the faggotted seams unlined. Underarm gussetts, with built-in pads.
B) Skirt. Street length, full skirt matching bodice, with alternating vertical stripes, narrow navy blue waistband with center front opening with 5 self-covered buttons, and one hook and eye and two hook and loops on waistband, and a large snap which matches to bodice. Lined as blouse, with cream organza lining the stripes, but the faggotted bands left open, and with an inner skirt attached at waist of same cream silk organza, and with inner petticoat with flounce of cream tulle which has separate closure with 9 hook-and-eyes.
Handwritten note on waistband "RH650 2P(?)"
C) Inner shell camisole/lining for blouse of cream silk. Sleeveless, waist length, with V-neckline and center front opening with 7 hook-and-eye closures. Fitted slightly raised waistline.
Designer's label at left side seam near hem: "Christian Dior / Paris" "Printemps-Ete 1953"; "Made in France"; 34419(?)
Handwritten label underneath designer's label: "58.889" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501324/
- Ensemble - Dress and Coat
(At Left) Evening ensemble of brown silk shantung. The camisole is sleeveless, with a boat neckline. Center back closure with 10 small circular buttons covered with matching fabric. The blouse is lined in dark brown silk, and has an inner structure of net and metal boning. The understructure extends below the top to give structure to the skirt. The inner net and boning layer has a center back closure of 14 hook-and-eyes, matching along same line as outer closure.
The skirt is of matching materials, A-line, below-the-knee length. It has a 2" waistband decorated with horizontal ruching. Center-back zipper closure with two hook-and-eyes in waistband. The skirt has an attached black rayon gorgette underslip, and an attached black nylon petticoat. The petticoat has a horsehair braid incorporated in the hem for stiffening.
The matching swing coat is calf length, with a rolled collar and short sleeves. It is constructed with several layers of organza for structure and a tuck panel around the coat for decoration and flounce. Lined in brown silk.
There are no labels in the garment.
Photograph is from the exhibition "Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers", held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows suit as displayed.
From the original collection of the Dallas Museum of Fashion, which later became the Texas Fashion Collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30014/
- Ensemble - Jacket and Dress
Ensemble of printed silk. This cocktail or dinner ensemble in the "New Look" consists of a dress and bolero-style jacket of printed floral ikat silk with a black ground and floral design in gray, browns and dark brown/mauve shades.
A) The dress is mid-calf-length, sleeveless, and with a boat neckline. Tailored to fit, with side bust and waist darts. Self fabric bow at top of waist gore which releases into a box pleat at the skirt. Slightly dropped waist. Under the sides of front box pleat edges are two knife pleats to create fullness, with darts for slimmer waist. On either side of front bock pleat is a small 1"intake pleat to balance fullness of skirt. Side seams have a lapping box pleat and an small triangular insert from front side seams. Back waist has 4 sets of box pleats, two on either side of center back zipper closure. The dress has built-in under-structure consisting of inner half-slip of off-white satin, and three layers of stiffened netting petticoats, all with horsehair braid at hem.
B) The matching jacket is of the same cloth, cropped short in the bolero style. The center-front opening has no closures and is collarless. Raglan style sleeves are tea elbow length. Under sleeve and sleeve cuff is slightly ruched creating a faux cuff look. It is fully lined in a brown silk organza. 4-way underarm gusset. Sewn into the hem are French weights.
There is no label in the dress. The jacket has a single designer's label: "Printemps-Ete 1956 / Christian Dior / Paris" which has stamped on it "80615". The "1956" appears embossed, not printed, and the black backing of the label is cut away behind the "1956". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283770/
- Evening Dress
Evening dress of black and white satin. Long torso fitted top. Sleeveless, with wide boat neck of black satin. Zipper down the back. Full harem skirt of black, white, and grey striped and dotted silk with one large black satin bow at hip line and another bow of same at the hem of the short, "balloon" style skirt.
Designer's label at left inside seam: "Boutique / Christian Dior / Paris" and "Made in France". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114831/
- Evening Dress
Evening dress of black silk taffeta. Street length; short sleeves. Scooped neckline with attached, pleated capelet/stole which secures to dress with snaps and white, 4-1/2" wide grosgrain ribbon bow at left. Bow buttons onto capelet/stole with small button covered in matching black taffeta. Straight skirt from natural waistline. Center back zipper with hook & loop. Lined in black organdy(?) with black grosgrain petersham.
Designer's label on center back seam: "Christian Dior - New York Inc."
Retailer's label on center back seam: "Neiman-Marcus"
With accompanying belt, covered in matching black taffeta. Square buckle; 32" x 1-1/4". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503741/
Hat of shiny beige/light brown straw. Formed somewhat as a turban, the strands (approximately 50) of straw are wrapped and swirled around stiff net base creating a high, somewhat conical crown with an effect like a turban or a high-piled swirl of blond hair. Completely covered with beige veiling. Dark muted orange satin binding (1/2 inch deep) around edge of crown.
Designer's label sewn to inner edge: "Christian Dior / chapeaux / Paris~New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87044/
Hat of silk faille. The body of the hat is made of woven straw, covered with beige/off-white silk faille. The shallow, domed crown is made in two parts - the upper shallow dome, and a collar into which the upper crown is inset. The upper edge of the collar is pipped in black. The shallow sloping brim is similarly constructed, with an inner band and then outer section with a black pipped edge between the sections. The crown is unlined, revealing the woven straw. The brim segments are lined in the same faille of the outside of the hat. Around the inside of the crown is an inner hatband of cream grosgrain ribbon, two which is attached a black elasticized cord to secure the hat to wearer's head. A small red/brown stitch on the inner hatband indicates the front of the hat.
Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Christian Dior / Paris / Made in / France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39136/
- Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of cream satin. The slightly domed crown of the hat is of cream satin, inset within a thick ring of the same fabric which forms the sides of the crown. Applied to the sides of the crown are black velvet ribbon semi-bows which form "T" shapes, set alternately upright and inverted. The hat is lined in golden tan fabric, and has a white grosgrain ribbon inner hatband around the inside base of the crown.
Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Christian Dior New York Inc.".
Retailer's label sewn to inside lining of crown: "Neiman-Marcus / Made to Order".
Accompanied by a single short hatpin with faux pearl head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39201/
- Suit - Jacket and Skirt
Suit of taupe wool consisting of:
A) Jacket. Single breasted with closure of two large, plastic, textured taupe colored buttons and bound buttonholes. Notched collar and long, set-in sleeves. Two pleated plackets at sides of waistline with bound openings create loops for belt. Lined in matching silk jacquard of "Christian Dior" pattern.
Designer's label at inside left opening: "Christian Dior-New York, Inc."
Evidence of removed label at center back neckline.
B) Skirt. Slightly A-lined with left side zipper and hook & eye. 1" waistband. Lined in rust colored silk crepe.
C) Self-covered belt with rectangular buckle. 1-1/2" wide.
Stamped on reverse: "16 Christian Dior / New York, Inc" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501360/
- Suit - Jacket and Skirt
Day suit of royal blue linen consisting of:
A) Blazer. Single breasted with 4 circular, blue plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Release tucks at bust line. Notched collar; hip length. Long, set-in sleeves with turned-back cuffs. Flap pockets at sides. Lined in matching blue silk jacquard with "Christian Dior" woven design.
Designer's label at right side seam: "Christian Dior-New York / Original / *Trade Mark"
Retailer's label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus"
B) Skirt in straight style. Left side zipper with 3 hook & eyes. Center back 12" pleat. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc499070/
Toque of brown and green straw. The toque has a high, cylindrical crown with flattened top. The crown is made of bands of very fine green and more coarse brown/tan woven straw. The flattened top is of green, and along the sides are three narrow green bands, three narrow tan/brown bands, and the lowest, wide band of tan/brown. To one side of the toque is affixed a spray of artificial lily of the valley, tied with a red grosgrain ribbon bow. The hat is lined in blue/gray fabric, with an inner hatband of off-white grosgrain ribbon round the inside base of the crown.
Designer's label sewn to inner headband: "Made in / England / Christian Dior / Chapeaux".
Retailer's label sewn to inner headband: "Lazarus / French Room / Columbus, Ohio". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39194/
- Ensemble - Dress, Belt, and Shoes
A) Dress of wax coated metallic Bordeaux. Strapless, the heavy-weight fabric is stiffened and crinkled with fold accents; top spreads outward along neckline; dress has fitted under-structure with boning; mid-length; fully lined in maroon silk satin; side zip-closures.
Designer's label: "Dolce & Gabbana / Made in Italy"
Handwritten label: "POR F6A83T/R0226"
B,C) 2 corset belts of silver metal with black lace-up closure at back and 2 locks with keys each at front; flat head screw accents.
Each lock engraved with designer's label: "Dolce & Gabbana"
D,E) Pumps of silver patent leather with pointed toe. Around lower section of toe box and heel are a line of simulated flat head screw accents. High spike heel. Size 39.
Designer's label inside: "Dolce & Gabbana / Made in Italy"
Stamped on sole: "Vero Cuoio / Made in Italy" "DG" "39" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330510/
Pair of sling-back pumps of faux fur. Shoes have toe-box of simulated leopard fur made of a felted material, and have narrow platform and pointed closed toe. Rounded throat on vamp piped in brown fabric. Ankle straps of matching faux leopard. Platform trimmed in red silk twill, and shoe with metallic gold insole lining. 3 1/2" boulevard heels covered on sides and back with the faux leopard.
Label applied inside both shoes: "Dolce & Gabbana / Made in Italy"
Stamped on both soles: "Vero / Cuoio" within hide outline; "Made in Italy"; and "37" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39033/
- Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of red felt. The cylindrical crown is flat at top, and encircled by matching material gathered and scrunched to create horizontal wrinkles around the crown. Set off to front right side is rosette/spiral of red feather. Lined in a silvery/gold and black fabric, and with a red grosgrain inner hatband.
Maker's label inside: "Dolly Madison" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283740/
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38053/
- Culottes Dress
"Culottes dress" of orange, white, and yellow silk petals over white crepe. The garment is constructed as a pair of white crepe mini-culottes with attached sleeveless overdress in the style of a pinafore of net covered in orange, white and yellow silk petals. Wide, rounded neckline scoops in back. Attached cream satin ribbon sash wraps around waist to back to form a bow, and closes with 2 hook & eyes. Over-skirt opens in back from waist to hem. Bodice with center back zipper with hook & eye. Lined in ivory silk or acetate.
Designer's label at inside near hem: "DOMINIC / for / MATTY TALMACK / New York"
Retailer's label at inside near hem: "Neiman-Marcus"
Size label near hem: "8" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503777/
- Crocheted Cap
Crocheted cap of brown cotton yarn styled as a pillbox. The hemispherical crown is flat at top and slopes to base. The hat has no brim and is unlined. Stuck through the sides of the crown are two brass hatpins formed as over-sized hairpins. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114817/
Jockey cap of navy felt. Hemispherical crown formed of 6 triangular segments. At top of crown is a small green enameled "apple" shaped charm, one green enameled spherical bead, and one orange enameled bead. At front of cap is crescent-shaped bill with inner wired edge. Cap is unlined. No labels in cap. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114891/
Hat of plastic-coated paper. The hat is of novelty design, with a square crown of flame pink/orange with faint stripes/brick pattern, which is open along the vertical corners. The mostly-oval brim of the same material is set off-center, widest part from side to side, but with more brim at front than back. At front left, the brim extends and detaches from hat to hang down at side. At end of extension is cluster of petal forms made of the same material and a white version of same material. Around the base of the crown is a "hatband" formed of dense clusters of the same petals. The underside of the brim is of the flame pink/orange, while the inside of the crown is white. Around the inside base of the crown is a band of white grosgrain ribbon.
Designer's label inside at base of crown: "Sue Dooley / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114844/
Slouch hat of plastic-coated paper. The high, cylindrical crown is of aqua blue, with "squashed" sides. At base of crown is think neon orange hatband tied with bow at right side near front. Medium-wide brim of pale green curves out and down, and is decorated with concentric bands of stitching. Edge and underside of brim faced with same blue as crown. At back of hat, under brim at edge, is a small bow of the orange neon material. Inside of crown is lined(?) with the pale green of the upper part of the brim. Around inside base of crown is band of white grosgrain ribbon.
Designer's label at inside back of lower edge of crown: "Sue Dooley / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114846/
Hatlet of pale yellow/gold slub silk. Designed as a small turban, the domed crown is formed as a swirl of silk pleats with shallow, 1/2" upturned edge at base simulating a brim, with a narrow 1/4 inch wide "hat band" of same fabric. A small bow of the same fabric is at back of cap on lower edge. Lined in a matching fabric, with gold rickrack band along inside bottom edge. Two elastic cords at inner edge indicate hat had combs for attaching to wearer's head, now missing.
Designer's label inside at back: "Sue Dooley / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87045/
- Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of tan fur. Low circular crown covered in light tan fur, likely mink. Lined in pink fabric with band of blue fabric inside lower edge, overlaid with gold rickrack band. On each side along inside lower edge is a small brown plastic comb secured by black elastic cord to secure hat to wearer's head.
Designer's label inside at back: "Sue Dooley / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87082/
- Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of draped chiffon burnout velvet. Cylindrical large pillbox hat with shaped lower rim. The crown is draped/pleated horizontally in a chiffon burnout velvet with printed abstract designs burnt orange, yellow, and blue. Lined in a brocaded blue and sparkly fabric. At lower inside edge is band of gold rickrack.
Designer's label inside rim at back: "Sue Dooley / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87083/