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UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Texas Fashion Collection
Hat of black felt. The low, domed crown is encircled by a band of black net veilling, gathered at front to form a pouf, and with a narrow band of black ribbons, tied at back with a bow. The narrow brim curves up slightly at back. The hat is unlined, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband.
Brand(?) label: "Originals / Fifth Avenue / New York"
Label of felt maker: "Bodies by / Lee" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305406/
Hat of fine mauve straw and artificial flowers. Designed as a "boater", the low cylindrical crown is of woven fine mauve straw with a slightly sunken, inset flat top. Around the base of the crown is a wreath of artificial flowers, including red roses, and small blossoms in pale green and mauve, which is tied at back with a thin green velvet ribbon bow with trailing ends. From below the wreath extends a net mesh veil, which covers the narrow, flat brim, and hangs down. The hat is unlined, with an inner dark green grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Designer's label: "Nat Frank / New York"
Size label: "22" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87066/
- Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of brown straw cloth with brown veil. Left brim of hat circles to form a loop that folds under the right side of the hat.
Designer's label with two set in rhinestones on inside of crown: "John Fredericks / New York"
Vertical portion of designer's label: "Made in America" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39171/
Hat of red straw with high crown. Cream and pink roses decorate turned down brim and top of crown. Unlined with red grosgrain ribbon inner headband.
Designer's label sewn inside headband: "John Frederics / Made to Order" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114804/
- Picture Hat
Picture style hat of black felt. Asymmetrical brim is wider on sides. Fringe of self as trim encircles crown and drapes across brim. Unlined with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head.
Designer's label: "John Fredericks Inc. / New York"
Tag at left of designer's label: "Made in America" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286784/
- Capulet Hat
Capulet style hat of red silk faille with 3 folds of self on either side. Red, slightly stiffened nose veil.
Designers label: "MR. JOHN"
Measurements: (Veil not included in measurements)
L: 13 cm
W: 49 cm
H: 11 cm digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277080/
Cloche hat of fine light brown/tan straw. The domed crown of straw has a looped segment of woven straw "ribbon" attached at side, with trailing ends. The irregular brim, woven in one piece with crown, has an asymmetrical crease at side. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of off-white grosgrain ribbon.
Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "John Frederics 'Charmer'". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38122/
Turban-style hat created of henna colored wound silk rope stitched to form the hat. Net backing/lining. At front of hat is a oval spiral of same material, from which extends a spray of cinnamon colored feathers.
Label sewn inside: "John Frederics Inc / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114810/
Hat of colored knitted yarn. Tall, conical crown with flattened top. Crown has horizontal bands of knitting in browns, blues, and beige, alternating with bands of "puffed" yarn areas of blue, pink, beige, and brown. No brim. Unlined, but with inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "John Frederics Inc / New York" and "Made in America". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114794/
Hat of black felt. The crown designed as a shallow dome, encircled at base by a wide ribbon of black velvet. At back of hat ribbon has a large bow. Wide brim turns up at front, with two wide vertical bands of same black velvet ribbon. Hat is unlined, with inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Designer's label inside: "John Frederics Inc. / New York" and "Made in America"
Size tag inside: "23" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114777/
- Picture Hat
Picture hat of light tan straw. The hat has a high, conical crown that is flattened at top. The wide straw brim curves up slightly from base of crown, then curves gently downwards to edge. At back of crown is large navy blue grosgrain ribbon bow, and around the top of the hat is a "cloud" of navy blue veiling. Hat is unlined, with inner light tan grosgrain ribbon inner hatband, and a black elastic cord to help secure hat to wearer's head.
Designer's label inside: "John Frederics Inc / New York"; "Made in America"; and size label "22". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114788/
- Picture Hat
Picture hat of black felt. The crown is formed as a bun, with puffed top, resembling a muffin, cinched in at the base by a visible satin string/stitch with trailing edge/tassel at back. The wide brim of matching felt curves downwards and undulates slightly, and has a decorative stitch near outer edge very slightly gathering the edge.
Label sewn inside crown: "Made in America"; "John Frederics Inc. / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39126/
- Toque Hat
Toque hat made of brown and beige fur felt with bands of fabric sewn and blocked. Lower band and top of crown in brown with upper band in beige. One safety style pin with two circles of rhinestones and large rhinestone in center as trim.
Designer's label sewn inside crown: "Mr. John Jr." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277007/
- Evening Gown
Evening gown of white silk crepe. Full-length sleeveless dress with round neck and narrow straps and Empire waist. The bodice is heavily beaded with mirror beads and silver rhinestones. The skirt has vertical columns of beads and has heavy beading on hem. Zipper closure along center back. The dress is fully lined in cream fabric. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30180/
Pair of boots or "High Button Shoes" of black leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, lace closed along center front with laces 19 holes high. The modified Louis or cuban 2" high stacked heels are rounded at sides and back, and are curved at front.
Stamped on lining: "370 4331 0a 66 / Friedman-Shelby / St. Louis" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38999/
- Bergère Hat
Black silk organza bergère-style hat. The hat has a floppy double-layer brim, the under brim of slightly stiffer black silk organza, overlaid with upper brim of same material. The low, circular crown is encircled at the base by a folded black ribbon, which ties at back and has trailing ends. Inside base of crown is band of black grosgrain ribbon.
Sewn into ribbon is designer label: "Galanos". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30002/
- Cloche Hat
Cloche style hat of black shiny straw. Edge curls up and makes small brim on center back. Lined in black net with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband.
Designer's label on inside headband: "Galanos" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305367/
- Cocktail Dress
Cocktail dress. The bodice of the dress is of sheer black wool, with a Peter Pan style collar and short sleeves which are shirred at the ends. There is a narrow black satin ribbon at waist where the bodice meets the skirt. The skirt is composed of three layers. The innermost layer is of thick black chiffon, the middle layer is thin black chiffon/crepe. The outer layer is of panels of black and white printed hounds tooth/plaid chiffon, the panels arranged vertically and slit from 5" below waistline to hemline. The panels are gathered/pleated into the waistband. At the top of each slit is an applied black satin bow, forming a row of bows around the hip-line of the skirt. Each panel has side borders of black satin ribbon. The dress has a center-back zipper from neckline to below hips, with a single hook-and-eye at top of collar. There is an inner black grosgrain ribbon waistband, with hook-and-eye closure. The bodice is lined in sheer black material.
Designer's label inside skirt: "Galanos" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30072/
a) Dress of oatmeal colored silk with black polka dots. Six self covered buttons with covered buttonholes supplemented with snaps and hook & eyes at waist form front closure. Short, modified raglan sleeves. Bodice lined in oatmeal colored silk crepe. Gathered at hip line. Skirt supported with netting and lined in cream colored organza.
Designer's label at left inside seam: "Galanos"
Retailer's label at right inside seam: "Neiman-Marcus"
b) Matching belt in same. Belts at natural waist in large gap between buttons. Belt in two pieces; longer piece has self covered buckles at each end and smaller piece has 3 punch holes at each end. Leather backing in natural color.
Back stamped: "Galanos" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283718/
Ensemble consisting of:
A) Jacket of black and white gingham cotton check. Bracelet length sleeves. Side front opening with 7" button extension. On left side front, there are two large circular black plastic buttons at waist and one at top button at neckline flap closure; bound buttonholes. Peter pan collar starts at piping edge of left side front and right side front. Two flap welt pockets. Back with inverted box pleat which starts open at neckline and goes to 2" above waist where it is stitched together. Side back shoulders have flanges which are basted down at bottom.
Collar's, pockets', cuffs', front to back flanges hemline's and front opening's edges all bound in black satin bias tape. Lined in smaller cotton gingham check.
Designer's label at inside center back neckline: "Galanos"
B) Blouse of black and white, small gingham check. Center front opening with 2 (+ 1 missing) black circular plastic buttons supplemented with snaps and hook & eyes. Fitted, flared waist . Sleeveless. Collarless, slightly scooped neckline which forms a V in back. Neckline, sleeve openings and center front opening trimmed in black satin. Lined in fine white net.
Designer's label on inside left seam: "Galanos"
C) A-line skirt, street length, in black and white gingham cotton. Narrow waist of black grosgrain. Left side zipper. Lined in cream colored silk.
d) Contour belt covered in black and white gingham check. Square buckle covered in same. Three holes. Back in light tan leather.
Stamped: "Galanos Originals / Beverly Hills"
e) Hat of quilted black and white gingham check. Black satin headband ties in knot on right. Crown in smaller check than brim. Brim piped in black satin and slits at right beneath headband knot. Lined in alternating triangular sections of large and small gingham check.
Designer's label on inside hatband: "Galanos / 935 (handwritten)" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283773/
- Cartwheel Hat
Natural straw cartwheel or picture hat. The wide, slightly floppy, brim slopes up to the low circular domed crown. Around the crown is a black silk scarf attached in three places with black bows, with trailing section off of the back of the brim. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30000/
Hat of green velvet. The toque style hat is formed as a high, cylindrical crown of olive and light green velvet in a tiny checkerboard pattern. The entire crown, including flattened top, has a small green rhinestone set in each of the light green squares of the checkerboard. At the front of the hat is a bow of olive green velvet. The entire hat is overlaid with an olive green veil/netting. The hat is lined with green satin, and has an inner hatband of dark olive green grosgrain ribbon inside the base of the crown.
Sewn to the inner hatband is manufacturer's label: "Paris / Gardner / New York".
The hat is accompanied by a single short hatpin with faux pearl head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39193/
Mushroom hat of red strawcloth and tucks on four corners. Interior headband covered in same to secure hat to head.
Designer's label: "E Garnett / Italian Made / Imported Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39146/
- Ensemble - Dress and Coat
Ensemble consisting of two pieces:
A) Trench coat; little black slip dress laminated within clear plastic trench coat; slip dress has spaghetti straps, and lace trim at upper bodice and hem; trench coat has double breasted front opening; notched collar; buckles at wrists; slanted pocket lapels at hips with no pockets.
Designer's label molded into plastic: "Gaultier / Pairs"
B) Dress of pale pink chiffon with shadowing, and sequin and bead embellishments which create a realistic “nude woman" figure; sleeveless; full-length.
No label in dress. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330478/
- Picture Hat
Picture hat of black straw. The hat has a broad brim of woven black straw with an upturned outer edge which is trimmed in black velvet. The low, domed crown is also of woven black straw, with a band of black ostrich feathers around the base of the crown. One large ostrich feather plume attached to base of crown and extends out and over the back of the brim. Inside crown is black cloth lining.
Sewn inside crown is black cloth label: "Mme Georgette / 11 Rue Scribe / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30190/
- Body Suit With Tunic
Ensemble consisting of two pieces. Base garment is a light green knitted silk jersey bodysuit with over-length sleeves and legs. Zipper closure from throat to lower back at center back, with one hook-and-eye closure at top of zipper. Over the bodysuit is a tunic/tabard formed of two long rectangular panels of black silk with white printed polka dots all over. There are thin "straps" simulated at shoulders where panels meet, and a slightly rounded neckline. The panels are sewn at left side for 17 cm. below arm and open the rest of the length. On right side are three snaps and one hook-and-eye closure. The left shoulder is sewn shut, while the right side opens with hook-and-eye closure. The panels are lined in shocking pink silk.
Label in bodysuit: At inside left back, just beside zipper: "Rudi Gernreich".
Labels in tunic/tabard: At back inside, just below neckline: "Neiman-Marcus / Trophy Room"; At front inside, just below neckline: "Rudi Gernreich" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30029/
- Evening Ensemble - Jacket and Dress
Evening ensemble of heavy pink Alaskine silk/wool blend, consisting of a jacket and dress.
The jacket is a cropped, bolero style, with rounded neckline and short sleeves. It has a center front opening with single hook-and-eye at throat. The sleeves, neckline, opening, and hem are edged in band of pink and crystal beads and rhinestones. Scattered over the surface of the jacket are clusters of pearl, crystal, and silvered beads. The matching dress is full-length, with an Empire waist. It is sleeveless, with very slight scoop at front neckline, and a deep rounded scoop to mid-back at back.The straps are heavily beaded with pink and crystal beads and rhinestones. The 4-gore A-line skirt gathers slightly into bodice. The dress has an inner pink nylon(?) sheath lining.
The jacket labels are: Retailer's label: "R.S.V.P. / Neiman-Marcus"
Designer's label, underneath retailer's label: "Gino Charles"
Size label: "8"
The dress labels are: Designer's label: "Gino Charles"
Origin label: "Made in the British / Crown Colony of Hong Kong"
Size label: "8" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402501/
Coat of intricate patchwork of Prince of Wales wool plaid, wool hounds tooth, wool petit point, all-over embroidered with pewter metallic floral vines. Knee length. Simulated double breasted, off-center opening with hidden placket button closure; notched collar. Long sleeves with 6 functioning button closure at wrists. Two flap pockets with welts at each front hip with lapels; pockets not open. Knee-length. Fan pleating at back. Fully lined in gray silk.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Givenchy / Haute Couture" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402522/
- Evening Dress, Purse, and Shoes
Gold patterned evening dress with jacket, shoes and clutch.
A) Jacket: tailored, cropped shell in peacock eye, gold metallic brocade with red and mauve highlights. Jewel neckline with full-length set-in sleeves. The neckline and cuffs are embellished with wide bands of gold cord, gold beads and large gold, yellow and red rhinestones. Fully lined in gold silk. Shoulder pads.
B) Dress: Fitted, slightly dropped waist, sleeveless bodice with scooped neckline and low plunging back. Centerback zipper closure with a single hook & eye at the neckline. Slightly dropped waistseam with full, gathered, pouf skirt. The skirt has an asymetrical hem falling from knee-level centerfront to mid-calf centerback. Sideseam hip-level pockets. The bodice piece lined with gold chiffon. Waist stay of gold silk.
Bust pads. The skirt is self lined with a rolled and poufed hem. There is a large tuck in the skirt lining, possibly from an alteration.
Label: "Givenchy / Made in France"
C-D) Shoes: matching gold brocade, high heeled pumps. Tan leather soles. Gold leather lining with stamped label in instep.
Label: "Rene Mancini / Paris / Fait Main"
E) Clutch: matching gold brocade envelope clutch with magnetic clasp closure. Pleated accents on flap. Gold interior clips for chain. Ivory silk faille lining with patch pocket.
Label: Rene Mancini. Paris. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30251/
Hat of black velvet and satin. Black satin oval skullcap with rolled black velvet brim. Fully lined in black satin. Black grosgrain ribbon headband. Narrow elastic chin strap.
Designer's label stitched at center back headband: "Givenchy / Houvelle Boutique" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283724/
Hat of black velvet. Resembles the style of a ladies riding hat. Low, flat crown with narrow rolled brim. Chenille dotted mesh veil. Wide, black satin ribbon hatband. Fully lined in black satin. Black grosgrain ribbon headband.
Designer's label stitched at center back headband: "Givenchy / Paris / Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283681/
- Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black jersey. The cylindrical crown has a flat, slightly recessed top, and bands of black silk ribbon decoration applied horizontally around sides. Upper and lower bands are of plain layered ribbon forming slightly molded bands, while central band is of twisted/folded/worked ribbon creating a dimensional braided pattern. Hat is lined in black satin, with inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband and a single small faux turtle shell comb to help secure it to wearer's head.
Designer's label: "Givenchy / Paris" "Made in / France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305376/
- Skirt Suit
Suit of navy blue wool with window pane plaid in white.
a) Jacket of navy blue wool in window pane plaid in white. Double breasted with circular, blue buttons. Notched collar. Long sleeves. Fully lined in navy silk.
Designer's label at back neckline: "Givenchy / Made in France"
(b) Skirt of same fabric. Thigh down is pleated. Upper skirt is lined in navy silk. Left side zipper.
(c) White blouse of heavy silk. Neck has extra fabric to tie a bow or knot. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283742/
- Skirt Suit
Three piece cocktail suit of black quilted silk damask.
Sleeveless tunic overdress (a) in a sheath style that overlaps in back with three covered buttons CB.
Matching skirt (b) that hangs 8 inches below dress.
Matching jacket (c) with bermuda collar, double breasted with three double rows of braided buttons and
straight fitted sleeves. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30266/
Coat of silk gazar with a printed pattern of red and white polka dots on a black background. The mid-length to below-knee length coat has a rolled collar and short sleeves with princess seaming. There is a center-front opening with 5 circular buttons covered with black gazar, and with piped buttonholes. At some seams are applied whole red or white polka dots where the seams had "cut" printed polka dots.
Coat has designer's label at inside back, below collar: "Givenchy", folded over and sewn in a way that obscures the rest of the label: "Made In / France".
This coat is part of an ensemble that includes a dress of black gazar, and has matching shoes of same fabric made by Roger Vivier of Paris (1979.011.076)
Donor notes: "This is the fabric that was invented for Balenciaga and now only Givenchy can have it .... [the coat] is made so that if a dot had to be cut in half at a noticeable place, Givenchy had a whole dot appliqued over it. Monsieur Givenchy does not do this tedious handwork for all clients." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30166/
Sleeveless coat of navy on white zebra printed wool. The street-length coat is of slight A-line, widening to hem. It has wide straps, no collar, and center front opening with 5 circular dark blue plastic buttons. At each hip is a patch pocket with simulated flap, the fabric of the pockets chosen to match the placement on the print. The coat is fully lined in navy fabric. Inside neckline at back is designer's label "Givenchy", folded so that "Made In / France" is not visible.
This coat is part of an ensemble that includes a blue wool jersey knit top and slacks. Donor noted that it was "Made for Monte Carlo for day wear". There is also a hat that was worn with the ensemble (1978.013.062) digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30151/
- Cocktail Dress
Cocktail dress of black silk gazar. The halter-style neckline of the dress ends in straps at center back of the fitted, dropped-waist bodice. The skirt is a semi-full, gathered, mid-thigh length. There is a boned inner bodice of black silk tulle with bust pads, grosgrain bust and waist stays fastening with hooks-and-eyes, an elaborate closure involving halter drape and inner and outer zippers down the left sideseam and five snaps that secure the halter panel and disguise the zipper. Fully lined in black chiffon.
Label stitched on right side of inner bodice "Givenchy" and "Made In France". Underneath Givenchy label is sewn-in tape with hand-written note: "80 945" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30253/
Dress of red satin and black velvet. The above-the-knee length dress has a fitted princess-line bodice with dropped waist and V-neckline. The long sleeves have moderate puff at shoulders, and wrist closure with four red satin covered buttons on each wrist. The turned-back cuffs are of black velvet, as is the wired, rolled collar. The full skirt gathers at the waistline. There is a center-back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at neckline, and the collar detaches to accommodate the opening. The dress is fully lined in red chiffon, with bust pads and hip stay band which fastens at center back with hook-and-eye. Designer's label is sewn inside at right side near armhole: "Givenchy" "Made in France". Underneath the designer's label is sewn a second label with hand-written notation "80535". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30247/
Evening dress of blue silk gazar. The full-length dress has a fitted bodice simulating a wrap style, with V neckline, and long straight sleeves with 5 fabric buttons at each wrist. The skirt has an asymmetrical peplum with an inverted opening in front that is equal to the floor length A-line skirt, giving the effect of an over-skirt pulled back to reveal an underskirt. At back is a zipper closure from neckline to below hips, with a series of snaps at the top of the peplum. The dress has an accompanying leather belt covered with the same blue silk gazar. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30275/
Dress and belt. The dress has an empire-length bodice of white organdy with short sleeves, deep V-neckline in front and shallow boat neckline in back and is densely beaded with large and small white beads. From the lower edge of the beaded bodice a band of blue silk satin with a printed pattern of different sizes of white polka dots extends down to dropped waist length, covering the midriff. The full skirt, of the same polka dot material, is above-the-knee length, and has box pleats which start from the dropped waist level. The dress has a zipper closure along the left side seam of the midriff section, and the closure continues up along the lower part of the empire bust line seam to the base of the V-neckline with a series of alternating covered snaps and hook-and-eyes. The bodice section is lined with white organdy, the midriff section with blue silk, and the skirt is unlined. Designer's label is sewn inside bodice near right armhole: "Givenchy" "Made in France", with a second label sewn underneath with handwritten notation "80932". The dress has an accompanying belt covered with matching blue fabric with printed polka dots and backed with black leather. The buckle is also covered with blue polka dot fabric. The belt has no labels or marks.
Not shown in photo are matching high-heeled pumps by Rene Mancini, Pairs, and matching envelope clutch handbag also by Mancini.
From Givenchy's Spring 1992 Collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30252/
- Ensemble - Coat and Dress
Ensemble of printed silk. The full-length dress is of silk with a printed design of abstract flower forms in red, blue, purple, white, yellow and green on a black ground. It has a rounded neckline and long sleeves which have fabric covered snaps at the wrists. The bodice is seamed and fitted, and the skirt is slightly A-line, flaring to hem. Center back closure, top third is hook-and-eyes, the lower two-thirds is a zipper. The dress is fully lined in black silk. Designer's label sewn inside bodice near waist: "Givenchy". Underneath label is a second label with handwritten notation "48245". The matching coat is of the same print on a heavier weight silk. It is full-length, with a standing collar which has internal wiring for support. The sleeves are full-length, and it has a center front opening which secures with a single fabric-covered snap just below collar. The coat is unlined. Designer's label sewn inside coat at right near waist: "Givenchy". Underneath label is a second label with handwritten notation "48246"
This ensemble was made for the donor to wear to the wedding of Maria del Carmen Martinez-Bordiu y Franco, (1951- ) granddaughter of General Franco, to Don Alfonso, Duke of Anjou and Cádiz (1936 - 1989), son of Infante Jaime of Spain, Duke of Segovia and grandson of King Alfonso XIII of Spain. The wedding took place in the chapel of El Pardo Palace, Madrid, on 8th March 1972.
The donor noted: "It was designed by Monsieur Givenchy especially for me. Balenciaga was alive, though he had closed his house, and Givenchy consulted with him on this outfit. You can see Balenciaga's line to it. ... Givenchy had the two distinct fabrics printed in the same design -- one for dress and one for coat. He said it must look like the light shining through the stained glass windows of the Chapel."
The ensemble has a matching pair of shoes by Roger Viver made of fabric in the same print. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30152/
- Ensemble - Dress and Jacket
Ensemble consisting of a dress and jacket. The floor-length evening dress is in ivory and beige brocade woven with a small floral motif throughout. The gown is strapless, and has an empire waist. The neckline rises slightly in front with a narrow "V" cut at center. There is a zipper closure at left side, with a hook-and-eye at top. Internal foundation with a separate zipper closure at left side, boning, bust pads, and two grosgrain ribbon bands with hook-and-eye closures. The gown is lined in dark ivory silk. The matching short jacket is of the same fabric, cut bolero style with long sleeves. Center front opening has one hook-and-eye closure at top of bust. The neckline, center front opening, hem, and cuffs are all trimmed in a band of dark brocaded material edged with faux pearls, gold braid, and coffee-colored rhinestones. The jacket is embellished throughout with floral and foliate forms in faux pearls, gold beads and gold braid. It is fully lined in ivory silk. Both garments have designer's label inside: "Givenchy / Made in / France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30274/
- Ensemble - Dress and Jacket
Ensemble consisting of a dress and jacket of brown and white printed silk plaid or tartan. The waist-length jacket has a turn-down collar and wrist-length sleeves. It is single-breasted with a center front opening with four large circular brown plastic buttons and piped buttonholes. The jacket is fully lined in off-white silk. Designer's label located inside below center back of collar: "Made in / France / Givenchy". The matching dress is mid-length, to just below the knee, with round neck and princess seaming. It is sleeveless, and has box pleats at lower part of skirt. There is a zipper closure at left side. The dress is lined with off-white silk throughout with the exception of the box pleated area. Designer's label at inside side seam near right armhole: "Givenchy". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30165/
- Evening Dress
Cream silk jersey evening dress / ballgown with beaded decoration and matching belt.
A) Full-length gown, bodice embellished with hand-embroidered stylized leaves/buds in cream on a ground of silver, green, and mauve beads. Shoulders and thin collar with solid fields of beading. Short, wide sleeves edged with silver and clear beads. Center back opening with hook-and-eyes at top and bottom, no closure along mid-back. Plain cream silk jersey skirt, gathered into waist. Closure at right hip, with band of hook-and-eyes along back waistline, and series of hidden snaps down from waistline. Bodice lined in silk gauze, skirt lined in heavier cream silk. Inner grosgrain ribbon waistband with hook-and-eye closure.
Designer's label at inside waistband: "Givenchy"; under designer's label is hidden design/style # tag with handwritten notation: "54783"
B) Belt of cream silk gauze-backed silk jersey, 2" wide x 30" long, completely covered in beading matching bodice. Hook-and-eye closure at ends. No marks/labels on belt. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87027/
- Evening Suit
Evening suit of black velvet. The ensemble consists of a jacket of black velvet with machine embroidered vine and floral motifs in black threads and black beads. The coat has a notched collar, long sleeves with wide cuffs and two non-functional buttons on each sleeve, and two non-functional pockets at front. Center-front opening with two circular black satin-covered buttons. The lapels, cuffs, and pocket flaps are all of black satin. The knee-length skirt of of the same fabric, with satin waistband. Short zipper closure at side with two hook-and-eyes in waistband.
Designer's label inside jacket at collar: "Givenchy", with model number written on cloth tape sewn underneath label: "74075" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30268/
- Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of rose, blue and gold brocade. The ensemble consists of a jacket, skirt, and belt, all of the same "peacock eye" design brocade, of blue and gold on a rose pink ground.
The hip-length jacket is a tailored shell with round neck and set-in full-length sleeves. It has a full-length center front opening which secures with a series of five snaps covered in rose-colored chiffon. The neckline, opening, cuffs, and hem are trimmed with a two lines of dark rose silk cord embellished with spiraled lines of red, gold, and blue bugle beads. The lines are 6cm. apart. The jacket is fully lined in rose colored silk, and has built-in shoulder pads.
Sewn inside jacket at back collar is designer's label: "Givenchy", with a second label sewn underneath, which has a handwritten notation: "79461".
The matching fitted skirt is above-the-knee length, with a 3.5 cm. wide waistband into which the skirt gathers. Zipper closure at left side, with two large hook-and-eyes in waistband. The brocade is lined in white chiffon, and there is an inner lining/half-slip of dark rose colored silk. There are no labels in the skirt.
The belt is leather-backed, and faced with the same brocade. The rectangular pink and green rhinestone set buckle is non-functional, with a pair of hooks behind to catch in the metal-rimmed belt holes. There are no labels/marks on the belt. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283711/
- Sunburst Dress
Black "sunburst" evening dress with bustle. The fitted, full-length sheath is of black silk satin with black velvet "sunburst" motif repeated over the dress. The gown is strapless, with diagonally draped over-panels that meet at center front and form a large bow which tilts up to cover the left shoulder. There is a zipper closure along the left sideseam with hook-and-eye closure at neckline which is concealed by the bust panel, which is snapped to the dress and bow. The back waistline seam has a three-tiered ruffled bustle which has a snap at left side to accommodate the zipper. The skirt flares from knee to hemline. There is a boned black silk inner bodice with bust pads and bust and waist stays. The inner bodice has a zipper closure at left side, just inside the outer zipper.
Designer's label inside garment, stitched over right side bone: "Givenchy / Made In / France".
Photograph is from the exhibition Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers, held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows the gown as displayed with a hat by Balenciaga (Accession #: 1981.022.026). digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30250/
Beret style hat of navy and white woven straw. Ribbon flower hangs off side of hat with small flag of orange grosgrain ribbon on top of stem. Inner headband of black grosgrain ribbon with extension at back of white grosgrain ribbon. Unlined.
Designer's label at inside headband: "Gladys & Belle / 20 West 57th St. - New York"
Retailer's label at inside headband: "Walker-Marr / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87047/
Hat of light mustard colored wool felt. Wide crown and narrow, asymmetrical brim; rolled under with black felt lining under brim. Hatband of black velvet covered in black net trimmed in two rows of large, black sequins with rhinestone centers. Black velvet bow at back and hatpin with oblong shaped, black glass head. Unlined.
Label sewn to inner hatband: "Gladys & Belle / 20 West 57th St. - New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114917/
Hat of sherry black straw (artificial?). Crown is flat-topped and cylindrical. The brim is turned up against the sides of the crown, and has a textured black vinyl bow applied at front. The hat is unlined, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband.
Designer's label: "Gladys & Belle / 20 West 57th St. New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305333/