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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Hat
Turban of black and red print fabric with large draped pouf at top in bow shape. Headband of same drapes around back of top pouf, hangs over forehead and knots in front. Lined in black net with black grosgrain headband. Designer's Label: "Lilly / Dache / Paris New York / 78 East 56th Street, N.Y." Size label: "22 1/4" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114987/
Hat
Hat of black felt. Cloche style crown of black felt, domed, has high front structure of 7 multi-colored artificial roses of reds, greens, blues, and peach velvet. No brim. Inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York / 78 East 56th Street, N.Y." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39074/
Hat
Hat of black seal fur. Hat is brimless with short, flat crown. Round piece embroidered with black cording and decorated with tassels attached to back of hat. Lined in black fabric with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Designer's label: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York / 78 East 56th Street, N.Y." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39086/
Hatlet
Hatlet of burgundy fabric covered with artificial flowers. The hatlet is formed as an oval of stiffened burgundy fabric intended to be worn across the top of the head. The hatlet is almost entirely covered with artificial flowers of velvets, silk, and other fabrics. The flowers are primarily in pinks/purples/reds, with green stems and leaves. The hat is lined in black satin and edged with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. A small stitched mark on the ribbon indicates the front of the hat. Designer's Label: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York". Label is very large, extending across the full width of the inside of the hatlet, the word "Paris" partly obscured by the grosgrain ribbon. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39178/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of fine brown straw. Cylindrical crown has inset, slightly domed top created by having an inner pillbox hat of same design. Lower edge of crown is gently scalloped and edged in brown grosgrain ribbon. Hat has fine brown veiling attached between crown of inner and outer hats, around sides and front of hat, and two pearl-headed pins at sides. Lined in black fabric and edged with brown grosgrain ribbon. Small applied cream ribbon bow on inner ribbon indicates back of hat. Designer's label inside: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York". Label is so large that part of the word "Paris" and part of "York" are cut-off. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39129/
Pillbox Hat
Hat of black organza. The hat is in the form of a pillbox designed as a turban. A wired framework is overlaid with black organza, pleated to form long folds running front to back. At the front of the hat is a large bow of the same material, the trailing pieces pleated to match the crown and affixed to run in same direction. Lined in black mesh, and with inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Elastic string inside to run around back of wearer's head to secure hat. Two small hatpins with custom covers of same material on heads are stuck in back of hat. Designer's Label: "Lilly / Dache / Paris New York / 78th East 56th Street, N.Y." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39144/
Pillbox Hat
Hat of black straw. Styled as a pillbox, the low crown is cylindrical with a flattened top. The crown sits within a second "layer" of crown, which curves under and forms an inner ring which sits on the head, leaving the outer edge of the crown somewhat cantilevered. At the front of the hat, between the outer and inner edges of the crown, is a bow of the same black straw. The hat is lined in black fabric, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon at inside base of inner crown. A small white bow is affixed to the inner hatband to indicate the front of the hat. Designer's label sewn inside crown: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York / Young Modes" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39239/
Turban
Turban of pleated brown wool jersey. The high-crowned turban is composed of pleated concentric bands of fabric. The hat is lined in mesh covered with cream/pale yellow silk, and with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. A stitched mark on headband shows front of hat, and small applied ribbon bow shows back. Designer's label inside crown: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York". Label is large, almost reaching from headband to headband across inside of crown. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39198/
Turban
Turban of light beige fine net with tiny beads(?) worked into the mesh. The hat is layered, and slightly pleated along the length. At back is a bow of same material, and at front is an ornate rhinestone set brooch of light green and brown stones forming a starburst design. Inner off-white grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label inside: "Lilly Dache Paris 78 East 56th St. New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286818/
Turban
Turban style hat of black and pink striped satin with stuffed stand up pleated pouf in front. Lined in black net with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Designer's label: "Lilly Daché Paris / 78 East 58th St. New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114786/
Hat
Hat of velvet and golden weave cloth. The domed crown is covered in a woven golden cloth shot through with metallic threads. Around the base of the crown is a wide hatband of a similar fabric in the form of a dense ribbon, forming a large bow at front. Set in behind the bow is a semi-circular fan spray of fine white feathers. The wide, circular, slightly floppy brim is of black velvet. The inside of the crown is lined in a dark blue/black satin material. Maker's label stamped in gold on inner lining of crown: "Mme. J. Dagnet / French Millinery / 206 St. Paul St. / Dallas. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39153/
Breton Hat
Hat in breton style of burnt ochre straw with burnt ochre grosgrain ribbon bow at back on brim. Style can also be referred to as pamela, halo or madeline. Wide upward brim with alternating narrow bands of flat straw. Unlined with ochre grosgrain headband. Designer's label on inside headband: " An Original / by Dajon / New York" Size tag to left of designer's label: "22 1/2" Union label: "565660" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276973/
Hat
Hat of light blue ostrich feathers. Designed on a circular under band of light blue velvet-covered wire, the hat is formed of a radiating spray of dyed ostrich feathers, with light blue netting extending out as a veil, and with two light blue ribbon loops with attached simulated tortoise-shell hairpins to secure hat to wearer's head. Unlined. Designer's label: "Damozel / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286819/
Shoes
Pair of shoes of ivory leather and black patent leather. Made in the "spectator" style, the rounded toe-box, the 4" high blocky heel, and the lower part of the heel upper are of black patent leather, while the rest of the upper is of ivory leather. The black patent leather panels are decorated with white stitching along the edges. Lined in brown leather. Designer label: "Xavier Danaud / Paris" Handwritten inside: "7 1/2 B 2019" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87064/
Pumps
Pair of pumps of black satin. Shoes have rounded toes, and an extra gather of material at the vamp. Attached at vamp is large decorative Art Deco style oval buckle set with rhinestones. 1 3/4" high heels of modified Louis style, rounded at back and sides and tapering to base. Stamped inside: "Daniel Green / Comfy / Slippers / 2A75" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114771/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of deep emerald green velvet with stitched, raised front. Rim of twisted velvet. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Danielle / ses chapeaux / Paris" Tag attached to designer's label: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114875/
Cloche
Cloche of pale green straw and orange velvet. Domed crown of the cloche-style hat is overlaid with orange/red velvet leaf shapes. Around the sides of the crown are applied overlapping circular panels of pale green braided straw. On the left side of hat a single straw panel is placed low so that half of it hangs below the crown. Inside of hat is lined with peach silk. Designer's label inside crown: "Dauphine / Paris / New York". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39122/
Shoes
Pair of women's shoes of black patent leather. Designed with square toes, the vamp has an applied large square of black patent leather crossed vertically by a narrow band of red leather set off-center to right side of wearer. "Kitten" heel 1 1/2" high formed as a silver rectangle with horizontal black band and vertical red band. Designer's label inset int sole: "Davis by Ruthie Davis" Designer's monogram impressed in sole, two facing "D"s Impressed in sole: Outline of hide inscribed "Vero Cuoio"; "Designed in / New York / Made in Italy / 6" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87105/
Toque Hat
Toque style hat of aqua narrow straw. Ruffle flower of same in front. Unlined with black grosgrain ribbon headband. Label on inside headband: "De Lora / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276976/
Pillbox Hat
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87088/
Ballgown
Ensemble of red/coral/dark rose satin. The strapless dress has an empire bodice which curves up in front at bust and is lower in back. The full-length A-line skirt is pleated into the waistband with inverted box pleats. The gown has a center back zipper closure with two hook-and-eye closures and two snaps on the placket. The inner construction is complex, with red grosgrain ribbon bust and waist stays with hook-and-eye closures and a boned white horsehair inner bodice which is lined with red chiffon. Inner structure has its own center back zipper closure which is behind outer zipper. There is an attached full-length red satin petticoat with horsehair hem and nylon net inner structure to support front skirt pleats. The skirt is piece lined in red chiffon. The accompanying bolero jacket is of matching red satin with all-over quilting in a patterns of waves and arcs in a red thread. The cropped jacket is semi-fitted, and has an open curved neckline and center-front opening with no closure, all trimmed in a band of red satin. Each of the set-in long sleeves has a (non-functioning) large, red satin-covered button near the cuff; the cuffs are trimmed in a band of red satin. The jacket is lined in olive green satin, which shows the quilting, and has built-in shoulder pads. There are no labels in the garment. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30259/
Evening Gown
Evening gown of ivory satin and black lace. Garment is a full-length, A-line ivory satin dress with 3 wide horizontal bands of applied black lace on skirt and an attached black lace empire-style over-bodice. The bodice, consisting of overlapping lace scallops, has a deep square neckline and full-length sleeves. There are two covered snap closures on each wrist and a series of paired covered snap closures down center back. The dress has a center-back zipper with a single hook-and-eye fastener at the neckline. The ivory silk inner bodice has internal steel(?) boning for shaping, and fastens with a center-back zipper and internal grosgrain band waist stay. Inside the gown is a full-length, attached ivory satin slip with horsehair hem. The dress is piece-lined in ivory organza with a horsehair hem. Designer label stitched into garment at right center-back, beside the zipper "Oscar de la Renta" with second label "Made in U.S.A." sewn below. Hand written on the designer label is notation "4677S". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30258/
Evening Gown
Evening dress of black velvet and fuchsia satin. The dress has an empire-length bodice of black velvet, with a scoop neckline and long fitted sleeves which have hidden zipper closures. The Empire waistline is accented with a horizontal band of fuchsia satin with bow at center front. Extending down from the waistband is the full fuchsia satin skirt. The full-length skirt has vertical inverted pleats edged with bands of black velvet that extend from the waistband to just below the hips. At center back is a zipper closure. The bodice is lined in black silk, and has a black grosgrain ribbon inner waistband which secures with hook-and-eyes. The skirt has an inner slip lining of fuchsia fabric with a wide fuchsia satin hem matching the skirt. Designer label stitched into garment at right center-back, beside the zipper "Oscar de la Renta" with second label "Made in U.S.A." sewn below. Hand written on the designer label is notation "5638 F-92". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30270/
Hat
Hat with "Pineapple" crown. The domed crown of green felted rabbit fur is worked by gathering, "pinching" and seaming to create a surface resembling a pineapple. Around the hat "orbit" two bands of taupe felted rabbit fur edged in green grosgrain ribbon. They are connected on opposite sides of the hat and extend out into the space around the crown. Crossing the ribbons at one attachment point is a green felted rabbit fur "sheath" from which extend three long pheasant feathers. Inner hatband of green grosgrain ribbon, and with taupe felt lining the inside of the crown. Sewn to the inner hatband is designer's label: "Ian / D" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30308/
Hat
Hat of brown and coral pink felted rabbit fur. The high cylindrical crown has alternating horizontal stripes of brown and coral pink rabbit fur, with thin bands of gold lamé cording between the bands. The low, sloping, narrow brim is of brown fur with a visible lining of pink fur. Tied around the base of the crown is a double-strand of the gold lamé cording, knotted at side with hanging ends. The hat has an inner white grosgrain ribbon hatband, and is lined in grey felt. Sewn to the inner ribbon band is designer's label: "Ian / D" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30310/
Evening Sandals
Pair of heeled sandals. Uppers made of black peau du soi silk crepe over leather. Edged in gold kid leather. Vamp formed of three bands, each with applied central black silk circular piece with attached gilt metal neoclassical head. Shoes buckle at side with oval gilt metal buckles set with rhinestones. 2 5/8" Boulevard-style heel. For late afternoon or evening wear. Inscribed in each shoe: "Sp14630 / 58545" Labels: In right shoe: "DELMAN / New York - Chicago - London - Paris"; In left shoe: "BERGDORF / GOODMAN". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30027/
Evening Shoes
Evening shoes of silver and gold brocade. The shoes are designed with a rounded toe, of a gold and silver on cream background brocade with a leaf or fern pattern. Across vamp is an applied bow of same fabric. Modified Cuban heel. Stamped inside: [Delman Logo (Image of a woman at a shoe fitting] / Delman / New York - Paris" Stamped inside: "Expecially for / Lillian K. Sowell" Handwritten inside: "Sp85755 / 15866 / 5 1/2 aa / 5180" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114840/
Pumps
Pair of pumps of rust brown suede. The shoes are designed with a rounded, open toe, and a reddish-brown grosgrain ribbon bow across vamp. The suede upper is pierced with small holes all-over the toebox and sides. The 2 3/8" high heels are of a modified Louis style. Maker's label stamped inside: "Delman / New York * Chicago * London * Paris" Retailer's label stamped inside: "Bergdorf / Goodman" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114895/
Pumps
Pair of black suede pumps. The shoes are designed with rounded toes, ornamented with gold mesh at tips of toe. Thick heel, tapering slightly to base. Manufacturer's mark stamped inside: "Delman / New York / London / Paris" and "Delman" Retailer's label stamped inside: "Sakowitz / Houston" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114929/
Pumps
Pair of ladies' red leather Mary Jane style pumps. Designed with rounded toes and closed by a low and thin Mary Jane strap and buckle just above the vamp. Sole of natural black leather with black wooden heel. Medium-height broad heel with a slight curve at the back, broadening to align with the heel seat and a slightly concave straight front, similar to a Cuban heel. Stamped on the shank inside left shoe in gilt: "Neiman-Marcus" Stamped on the shank inside right shoe in gilt: "Best shoes you can buy are the best buy! / Delman / De Luxe" Stamped on the heel inside both shoes in gilt: Delman Logo (Image of a woman at a shoe fitting with the description: Delman / New York / Chicago / London / Paris) Handwritten inside shoe: "C81092 / 5223-6aw / 6aa / Petti" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86973/
Pumps
Pair of woman's pumps of black leather textured to imitate alligator. Designed with a somewhat squared toe, the vamp has scalloped upper edge trimmed with thin gold band. Heel with same texture, tapering to base. Designer's label stamped inside: "Delman / Los Angeles / London / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87060/
Evening Dress and Jacket Ensemble
Evening ensemble. A) Evening dress of white crocheted silk floral lace over ivory chiffon. The full-length strapless sheath dress has a body-skimming silhouette and a straight-line upper edge at bust trimmed with a band of ivory satin. Hemline dips at back, and creates a very slight train effect. Size 8 B) Jacket of double faced ivory silk satin with open-front and shawl collar which extends to waist-length hem. Long dolman sleeves extend to hem with gauntlet cuff with 2 ½” slit. Size 6 Designer's label: "Pamela Dennis / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286884/
Calotte
Hat of black felt. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the low domed crown has a velvet-like appearance. At front, the edge turns up and back, and is covered with black seed beads. At right side is a group of 7" long fine black stripped feathers accented with 5 red wires. Unlined, with inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sewn to inside headband: "Designed for you / by / Derrieux". Stamped inside of crown: "[coat of arms] / Ruth / Made in Czechoslovakia" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277132/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox of beige linen. The low, cylindrical crown is plain, with slight "lapped" edge at bottom. Lined in a fabric with golden threads, edged with gold rickrack. Inner white grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label: "by Derrieux" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286882/
Cloche
Cloche hat of tan linen. The off-the-face cloche has a high, domed crown embellished with white saddle stitching along seams. The brim is of the same material, folded up at front and descending down at sides and is turned down at back. At center back is a separation in the brim, with a small tan linen bow between the sections. The hat is unlined, with a brown grosgrain ribbon inner hatband inside the base of the crown. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Reproduction / Rose Descat / 22 Rue Royale / Paris"; Second label sewn to inner hatband: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39139/
Hat
Hat of royal blue velour. The crown is somewhat domed, of pieced velour, with a band of rolled dark blue satin around the base. The wide brim of matching velour is shaped to dip down and turn up slightly around the crown. The hat is unlined, with a band of dark blue grosgrain ribbon sewn in between the inner edge of the crown and the brim. Designer's label sewn inside: "Rose Descat / Paris", with a second label sewn to lower edge of designer's: "Made In France". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39140/
Hat
Hat of black wool felt in fedora style. Wide brimmed; sunken crown. Red leather trim at crown cut down center with pinking cut and supplemented with wound strands of green leather and braided with wound strands of green leather on opposite side. Ends of hatband are connected with large wooden toggle. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Rose Descat / 22.Rue Royale" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114869/
Hat
Alpine style hat in wine felt with green stitching and crease across center of crown. Wide grosgrain ribbon trim around base of crown of same color as top-stitching. Red feather on one side. Designer's label: "Rose Descat / 22.Rue Royale" Tag in hat: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114867/
Hat
Hat of red wool felt. Sport style with sectioned, slight gathering at two points on domed crown. Asymmetrical crown with black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Unlined. Inner headband of black grosgrain ribbon and white fabric. Designer's label on inside headband: "Rose Descat / 22.Rue Royale" Tag below designer's label: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114782/
Patchwork Dress
Dress made of multiple fabrics including velvet, cotton, and silk in red, green, brown, blue, and orange multi-colored floral and Indian prints, in a patchwork of vertical strips with metallic thread trim. Applied throughout are decorative metallic ovals. The dress is full length, with a flared skirt, long bell sleeves, and a low square neckline. Unlined. Zipper at center back extending from neckline to just below waist, with a single hook-and-loop at neckline. Label sewn to inside back to left of zipper: "Sant'Angelo". Worn by singer Lena Horne (1917-2010). digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30289/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat made of brown net covered with green silk leaves and violet rose buds. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Made in France / Christian Dior / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39050/
Cloche
Cloche-style hat of blue/gray feathers. The crown of the hat is made of dark blue mesh overlaid with a mosaic of blue/gray feathers. Brimless, the lower edge of the crown arcs upwards at front and slightly in back. The hat is lined in the mesh, and has an inner hatband at the lower inside edge of the crown. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Made In / France", "Christian Dior / Paris". Gift of New York designer Adele Simpson to the Dallas Museum of Fashion, from her personal collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39049/
Cloche Hat
Cloche-style hat of blue/gray feathers. The crown of the hat is made of dark blue mesh overlaid with a mosaic of blue/gray feathers. Brimless, the lower edge of the crown arcs upwards at front and slightly in back. The hat is lined in the mesh, and has an inner hatband at the lower inside edge of the crown. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Made In / France", "Christian Dior / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114739/
Coat Dress
Coat dress of navy silk faille with padded hips. Notched collar; single button closure. Long sleeves with vertical pleat across back shoulder to each sleeve hem. Lower mid-length skirt. Two crescent shaped pieces of fabric at hips with faux pocket detail gives the appearance of a separate jacket. Designer's label on inner right waist side seam: "Christian Dior/ New York/ Original" Tag above designer's label: "Fall 1949" Retailer's label on back of neck: "Neiman-Marcus/ Dallas" Belt of matching navy leather. Stamped on back of belt: "10 Christian Dior / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283699/
Coat Dress
Coat dress of white textured silk; fitted back and loose draped front ending over left bust line with long flange to hem. Designer's Label at inside center back below collar " Printemps - Ete 1956 / Christian Dior / Paris / Made in France" and stamped on label: "789[(?) last number is illegible]" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114749/
Dress
Ensemble of printed silk. This cocktail or dinner ensemble in the "New Look" consists of a dress and bolero-style jacket of printed floral Ikat silk with a black ground and floral design in gray, browns and dark brown/mauve shades. A) The dress is mid-calf-length, sleeveless, and with a boat neckline. Tailored to fit, with side bust and waist darts. Self fabric bow at top of waist gore which releases into a box pleat at the skirt. Slightly dropped waist. Under the sides of front box pleat edges are two knife pleats to create fullness, with darts for slimmer waist. On either side of front bock pleat is a small 1"intake pleat to balance fullness of skirt. Side seams have a lapping box pleat and an small triangular insert from front side seams. Back waist has 4 sets of box pleats, two on either side of center back zipper closure. The dress has built-in under-structure consisting of inner half-slip of off-white satin, and three layers of stiffened netting petticoats, all with horsehair braid at hem. B) The matching jacket is of the same cloth, cropped short in the bolero style. The center-front opening has no closures and is collarless. Raglan style sleeves are tea elbow length. Under sleeve and sleeve cuff is slightly ruched creating a faux cuff look. It is fully lined in a brown silk organza. 4-way underarm gusset. Sewn into the hem are French weights. There is no label in the dress. The jacket has a single designer's label: "Printemps-Ete 1956 / Christian Dior / Paris" which has stamped on it "80615". The "1956" appears embossed, not printed, and the black backing of the label is cut away behind the "1956". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283770/
Ensemble - Dress and Coat
(At Left) Evening ensemble of brown silk shantung. The camisole is sleeveless, with a boat neckline. Center back closure with 10 small circular buttons covered with matching fabric. The blouse is lined in dark brown silk, and has an inner structure of net and metal boning. The understructure extends below the top to give structure to the skirt. The inner net and boning layer has a center back closure of 14 hook-and-eyes, matching along same line as outer closure. The skirt is of matching materials, A-line, below-the-knee length. It has a 2" waistband decorated with horizontal ruching. Center-back zipper closure with two hook-and-eyes in waistband. The skirt has an attached black rayon gorgette underslip, and an attached black nylon petticoat. The petticoat has a horsehair braid incorporated in the hem for stiffening. The matching swing coat is calf length, with a rolled collar and short sleeves. It is constructed with several layers of organza for structure and a tuck panel around the coat for decoration and flounce. Lined in brown silk. There are no labels in the garment. Photograph is from the exhibition "Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers", held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows suit as displayed. From the original collection of the Dallas Museum of Fashion, which later became the Texas Fashion Collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30014/
Ensemble - Dress and Jacket
(At Right) Ensemble of printed silk. This cocktail or dinner ensemble in the "New Look" consists of a dress and bolero-style jacket of printed floral Ikat silk with a black ground and floral design in gray, browns and dark brown/mauve shades. The dress is mid-calf-length, sleeveless, and with a boat neckline. Tailored to fit, with bust darts, there is an attached bow of the same fabric just below the bust on the front. Slightly dropped waist, with box pleating from waist down the skirt. At front there are two box pleats that start at bow and continue down the front of the dress. Center back zipper closure. The dress has built-in under-structure consisting of inner half-slip of off-white satin, and three layers of stiffened netting petticoats, all with horsehair braid at hem. The matching jacket is of the same cloth, cropped short in the bolero style. It has 3/4-length sleeves and no collar. The center-front opening has no closures. It is fully lined in a brown silk organza. Sewn into the hem are French weights. There is no label in the dress. The jacket has a single designer's label: "Printemps-Ete 1956 / Christian Dior / Paris" which has stamped on it "80615". The "1956" appears embossed, not printed, and the black backing of the label is cut away behind the "1956". The Spring/Summer 1956 line was called the Flèche ("Arrow")Line. Photograph is from the exhibition "Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers", held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows ensemble as displayed. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30071/
Evening Dress
Evening dress of black and white satin. Long torso fitted top. Sleeveless, with wide boat neck of black satin. Zipper down the back. Full harem skirt of black, white, and grey striped and dotted silk with one large black satin bow at hip line and another bow of same at the hem of the short, "balloon" style skirt. Designer's label at left inside seam: "Boutique / Christian Dior / Paris" and "Made in France". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114831/
Hat
Hat of silk faille. The body of the hat is made of woven straw, covered with beige/off-white silk faille. The shallow, domed crown is made in two parts - the upper shallow dome, and a collar into which the upper crown is inset. The upper edge of the collar is pipped in black. The shallow sloping brim is similarly constructed, with an inner band and then outer section with a black pipped edge between the sections. The crown is unlined, revealing the woven straw. The brim segments are lined in the same faille of the outside of the hat. Around the inside of the crown is an inner hatband of cream grosgrain ribbon, two which is attached a black elasticized cord to secure the hat to wearer's head. A small red/brown stitch on the inner hatband indicates the front of the hat. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Christian Dior / Paris / Made in / France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39136/