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UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Texas Fashion Collection
- Pillbox Hat
Pillbox like hat of burnt sienna colored velvet. Standing brim and self bow. Top knot of self as trim. Crown close fitting like a calotte. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head.
Designer's label on inside hatband: " Erik Braagaard / Paris / 8 rue St. Florentin"
Label attached to top of designer's label: "Made in France"
Model label under designer's label (partly illegible): "00 314" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114877/
- Kipper Tie
Wide kipper tie of large stylized paisley designs in yellows and gold on a blue field. Blue is somewhat faded from the original shade. The tie has a tag on reverse marked "Brent" and with the logo for Montgomery Ward.
The creation of the kipper tie, a form of extra-wide necktie known for bright colors and patterns, is credited to British designer Michael Fish. He brought out the earliest ones in the 1960's.
This example was a gift to the donor by his maternal grandmother, Mary Kathleen King Miller (1898-1969). digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30325/
Hat of yellow straw. The cylindrical crown is flattened at top and has a "ridge" of straw running from front to back. Around the base of the crown is a wide band of pleated yellow organza. The wide, somewhat floppy brim extends out and curves upwards. Unlined, with an inner yellow grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Label sewn to inner hatband: "Shari / Brett / originals" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276988/
Dress of diagonally ribbed silk of off-white with deep red/orange, large paisley print. Long sleeves with 2" cuffs secured with two self-covered buttons and loops. Above the knee length. 2.5 inch standing collar. Collar closes in back with self-covered button, loop and 4 snaps. Horizontal seam across bust and deep, inverted box pleats falling from sides under bust line; pleats mirrored in back. Four self-covered buttons below collar secured with loops down center back. Zipper in back center from beneath buttons. Lined in ivory silk crepe.
Designer's label at center back: "Donald Brooks" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501382/
Summer dress / Sundress of linen weave cotton in abstract floral design of black, yellow, red, white and green on purple background. Halter-style bodice and dirndl style skirt; midi length with slit up center front to thighs. Center back zipper with 2 hook & eyes. Side slit pockets. Lined in yellow crepe.
Designer's label at center back: "Donald Brooks" with handwritten style number(?) "825"
With kerchief of matching fabric. Triangular shape. Reverse side print is purple flowers on yellow background. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501342/
- Ensemble - Jacket, Skirt, Blouse and Scarf
Ensemble of teal silk Ottoman. The suit consists of a jacket and skirt, blouse, and scarf. The jacket is of horizontally ribbed teal silk, banded on the bias, has a rounded neckline, is long sleeved, and has princess seaming for a tailored fit. The sleeves have soft pleating at the shoulders, and there are 3 circular gold buttons set with rhinestones at each cuff. There is a center front closure with 4 large buttons matching the style of sleeve buttons and one hidden snap at top. The buttonholes are hidden in the seam of the opening. The jacket is lined in black silk. The jacket has designer's label sewn inside at back of neck: "Richard Brooks". The matching skirt is of the same silk Ottoman, below-knee length, with soft pleats at front and darts at back from waistband down 5 1/2". Small slit at center back from hem upwards. The sides are cut on straight vertical stripe. The waistband has hook and two eyes, and there is a center back zipper closure. The skirt is lined in teal silk. There are no labels in the skirt. The blouse is of a thin teal green and metallic gold jacquard, woven with an ornate all-over paisley pattern. There is a banded collar and slight pleating/gathering on front at yoke, and at top of the long sleeves. Center back zipper closure extends from collar almost to hem, and has two hook-and-eyes at collar. The blouse has attached shoulder pads. There is no label in the blouse. An accompanying scarf is of iridescent teal silk chiffon, edged with the same jacquard materials the blouse is made from. There is no label on the scarf.
Designed for Texas Governor Ann Richards.
The silk is from Abraham Fabric. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30305/
- Ensemble - Jacket, Skirts and Blouse
Ensemble of rose silk. The suit consists of a jacket, two skirts and a blouse. The jacket is made from a 1930's sari of pale pink silk embroidered with gold and silver threads, beads, and pink sequins in designs of vines, flowers and abstract line patterns. Jacket has a floating yoke and full leg-o-mutton sleeves with long narrow cuffs that have zipper closures. The jacket itself has a center front opening with no closure. The neckline, edges of closure, hem, and cuffs are edged in heavily beaded bands added by the designer. Designer's label sewn inside back at neck: "Richard Brooks". The blouse is of heavy pink silk, collarless, with round neckline. It is short-sleeved, with pleating at the shoulder. Vertical seaming on front and back for structure. There is a concealed center-back closure with snap at top and 5 clear plastic circular buttons down the length. The blouse is lined in a dark, dusty pink silk and has sewn-in shoulder pads. Designer's label is sewn inside back to the left of the opening: "Richard Brooks". The two skirts are are both of identical pink silk, matching the blouse, of identical construction. One is knee-length, and the other is full-length. Both are lined in the same pink silk as the jacket. The short skirt has designer's label sewn in at waistband: "Richard Brooks".
Worn by Governor Ann Richards when she spoke at the Gridiron Club in Washington, 1992. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30304/
Pillbox style hat of tan fur felt. High crown with 2 small black buttons pinching the fabric throughout. Eight small black buttons form a V with black and red satin tubing as trim on edge. Inner headband of black grosgrain ribbon.
Maker's label on inside headband: "Helen Brounet / California" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286856/
Pair of pumps of black reptile. Designed as sling-back pumps with rounded, open toes, the instep is made of wide crossed bands of black leather, enhanced with top-stitching. The sides are cut-away at ankle, and a single black strap extending around back of heel, secured with small oval gold buckle. The high heels are a modified stiletto, somewhat thick, but of same shape.
Combined designer's and retailer's stamp inside: "Bruno Magli / For / Bloomingdale's / Made in Italy"
Stamped inside: "R984 6 1/2"
Stamped on sole: "M / Vero / Cuoio / Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87038/
Pumps of red-orange kid leather with pointed toes, rounded at tip. Spike heel, with fan-like detail at top of same leather patterned as snake skin. Light tan lining and leather sole.
Designer label: "Bruno Magli / Made in Italy Bologna"
Marked on inside of shoe "7 AA 10642 24435" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc115029/
Navy blue and white leather pumps. All leather pumps of navy blue leather printed with a polka dot white button motif. Heel and toe of shoe are of solid navy blue leather. Lined in embossed gold leather. Black leather sole.
Designer's label stamped inside: "Bruno Magli / Made in Italy Bologna"
Satmped inside: "C 4141 11702 5 1/2B" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87063/
Pair of woman's shoes of dull yellow/beige patent leather. Designed with square toes, the shoes have a large black patent leather bow across vamp, with oval brass buckle. The 2" high heels taper slightly to base, and are covered in black patent leather.
Stamped inside each shoe: "Magli / Bologna / Made in Italy"
Stamped inside shoe: "Z 293 78"
Stamped on sole: "Made in Italy"; "7 / 1/2 / M" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277076/
Pair of shoes of dark reddish-brown leather. The shoes are designed as modified moccasins, with squared-off toes. Across instep is gilt metal bar similar the the Gucci bridle. Slight extending tongue at throat. style; gold-tone bar on vamp. Thick stacked heel, tapering slightly to base.
Designer's label: "Bruno Magli / Bologna Made in Italy"
Handwritten inside: "T W1K 1 NC 52 320 7 M"
Stamped on sole: "Vero / Cuoio / 7 / M" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87039/
Pair of shoes of gold leather. Designed with slightly pointed toes, the shoes are modified D'Orsay pumps, with open toe formed by crossed-over wide straps at vamp, and with cut-away sides on the outside of shoe. High stiletto heels covered with same leather, tapering to base. Lined in silver leather.
Designer's label stamped inside: "Bruno Magli / Bologna * Made in Italy"
Stamped on sole: "7 / Vero / Cuoio" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86975/
Hat of black felt, brimless toque style. Cylindrical crown, rounded at top shoulders with extending cockscomb of three tiers extending upwards.
Designer's label: "Bruyere / 4, Rue de Rondovi_Paris"
Tag above designer's label: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114868/
Cloche style hat of beige crocheted straw. The rounded crown with tucks and folds is created of beige straw which has been crocheted. Around base of crown is band of dark brown piping. Shallow brim is turned up around sides and back, with wide edge band of brown satin with parallel rows of stitching. Front of brim has radiating ridges worked into straw. Hat is lined with dark beige satin.
Designer's label sewn into crown: "Budwig / Ltd." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39117/
Pair of women's sandals of silver metallic leather. Designed as "gladiator style" sandals, with six narrow silver leather criss-crossed or interwoven straps at front over vamp, and six more similar straps extending around ankle and originating from vertical band at heel. 5" zipper along heel band.
Designer's label on both sides of sole: "Barbara Bui"
Impressed on underside of sole: "Made in Spain" and "40".
Attached sticker under sole showing pictograms indicating which parts of shoe are leather. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87113/
Cap of tan, ivory, black and red Tartan plaid cotton with visor. Woven into the fabric are 4 pale images of the Burberrys knight. The cap is lined in tan viscose, with an inner trim of tan grosgrain ribbon.
Retailer's label under clear plastic panel in crown of cap: "'Burberrys' / Made in England [copyright symbol]".
Content/care label in 4 languages and symbols.
Size label: "S". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305419/
- Wedding Shoes
Pair of ladies' white heavy satin wedding shoes. Designed with pointed toes, the shoes have a fastening strap across instep with a single domed opalescent/milky white glass button. Across vamp is applied white satin bow with decorative gilt metal rectangular buckle with lobed ends. One buckle missing. Lined in white fabric. Sole of natural brown leather, heel covered in white satin. Medium-height heel with rounded sides and back, curving inwards and then flaring out to base, similar to a Louis heel.
Stamped inside shoe in gilt: "C.A. Verner / Pittsburgh"
Worn by Bess McChord (1874-1903) at her wedding to Clifford Dunnells, January 1, 1901. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39005/
Hat of muted violet straw. Styled somewhat as a sailor hat, the 2 1/2" conical crown is flattened at top, and has slightly sloping sides. Encircling the base of the crown is a 3/4" wide hatband of twisted muted cerise pink and purple velvet ribbons. At front of crown is a cluster of four velvet roses, 2 violet, 2 cerise with green leaves. Mounted above the roses is a violet velvet wrapped stand-up ornament with small bow at top, slightly to left of center front crown. The 4" wide flat brim has a narrow magenta velvet rolled band on underside of the outer edge. The hat is unlined, with an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Designer's label: "3410 Oak Lawn / Bernie A. Cahn / Dallas, Tex" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286890/
Hat of black, white, red, and ocher silk styled as a Garrison Cap (aka Side Cap, or Wedge Cap). Influenced by military headgear, this hat is constructed as a flat envelope, which opens along long edge to form a wedge-shaped crown. The cap is dyed in the Shibori technique, forming intricate designs outlined in white and filled in with red or ocher dots. Lined in black silk.
Designer's label inside: "3410 Oak Lawn / Bernie A. Cahn / Dallas, Tex." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277011/
Hat of pink straw. The open crown is of woven pink straw, as is the wide oval brim. At the front of the hat is a cluster of artificial flowers in pink velvet and green fabric. The hat is unlined, with two inner hatbands of grosgrain ribbon at the base of the crown - one band pink, the other of cream.
Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "3410 Oak Lawn / Bernie A. Cahn / Dallas, Tex"
Accompanied by a single short hatpin with a tan straw woven head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39162/
Coat of lion fur. Calf-length, double-breasted, long sleeved. Large collar and revers of lion's mane. Two buttons placed horizontally below bust. Buttons are an iridescent brown plastic with centers of snake (reptile). Lined in dark orange/rust silk. Slit pockets at front, lined in brown velvet/plush.
Furrier's label at inside back neckline: "[Royal warrant to HM The Queen] [Royal warrant to HM The Queen Mother] / Calman Links / London"
With accompanying belt of supple tan leather with metal (brass or bronze) buckle formed as a slightly abstracted "fan" shape. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503751/
Pair of golden beige patent leather pumps with all-over textured golden beige patent leather appliques. The patent leather appliques are bell/tulip shaped and have a pebble texture. Lined in gold metallic leather. 3 1/4" spike heel covered in the applique leather.
Stamped in each shoe: "Rene / Caovilla / Per"
Applied label in each shoe: "Marie Leavell / Made in Italy"
Stamped on sole: "Made / In / Italy" within circle; "7 1/2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39031/
Hatlet of navy blue faille(?). The open-crown hatlet is formed of a circle of overlapping bows/gathers of fabric, overlaid with a fine mesh veil of navy blue. The hat is lined in a darker blue fabric, which just shows along some edges.
Designer's label: "Caprice / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305364/
- Platform Sandals
Pair of platform sandals of wood and white leather. Thick brown wood platform/sole/heels with rounded toe. White leather open-toed toebox and straps at back which encircle ankle and secure at sides with gold buckles. 3 1/2" high at heel.
Maker's label stamped inside: "Carber / Made in Italy"
Stamped inside: "25-455M 8" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114760/
Dress of bright red wool. Sleeveless; jewel neckline; knee length. Empire waist with inserted panel, quilted and top-stitched. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Kick pleat opening at center front seam. Lined in bright orange silk.
Designer's label at inside, back neckline: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286919/
A) Dress of bright multicolor patterned translucent chiffon. The full-length dress has a straight, sheath shape, with a jewel neckline and long handkerchief-style sleeves which extend past hem and open at forearm. The sheath is two layers of fabric with the pattern skillfully aligned, while the sleeves are one. Centered zipper at center back, slip-stitched in, extending from neckline to just below waist, with a single hook-and-eye closure at neckline. Both layers are folded up into a 4" hem and blind hemmed in. Side seams are french-seamed, the arm scythe is a 1/4" hand-rolled seam, with the joining seam not at underarm, but the side back. Sleeve edges have a 1/8" narrow rolled hem. The CB seam was sewn with the wrong sides together, then the seam was turned right side out, encasing the raw edges, then the new edges were sewn at a 3/4" SA coming to a point right before the vent and the second layer acts as a facing. The printed pattern of the material includes concentric shapes with geometric and floral influences.
Designer label sewn inside back to left of zipper: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York"
B) Black thin satin ribbon belt with a snap and hook under permanent bow. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283727/
Dress of bright lime green wool. Knee-lenght and sleeveless, with a high neckline ornamented with 6 rows of topstitching. Empire waisted, with the lower portion of dress split into four long panels, scalloped to form petals with quilted, topstitched edges. Center back zipper with two hook & eyes. Upper portion of dress lined in lime colored acetate.
Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York"
Retailer's label beneath designer's label: "Marie Leavell" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286835/
Dress of bright multi-color patterned chiffon. The full-length dress has a straight, loose shape, with a round neckline and long handkerchief-style sleeves which extend past hem. Zipper at center back, extending from neckline to just below waist, with a single hook-and-eye closure at neckline. The printed pattern of the material includes concentric shapes with geometric and floral influences.
Designer label sewn inside back to left of zipper: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30208/
- Ensemble - Bodystocking, Mini-Skirt and Belt
Ensemble consisting of three pieces. Full-length bodystocking is of heavy ivory wool knit, in a ribbed pattern running vertically throughout body and legs, and horizontally around arms. The garment has a turtle-neck and wide flaring cuffs at legs. Center back zipper opening from top of turtle-neck to mid-back. The black double knit wool micro-mini-skirt has four over-sized belt loops with pointed ends, and center back zipper closure. The ensemble includes a wide black patent-leather belt which secures with concealed snaps.
Bodystocking has two labels. Designer's label inside at back near zipper: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York"; Material/size label on opposite side: "100% / Wool / L"
The skirt has no labels. The belt is stamped on reverse: "12 1851"
From the Fall 1969/1970 season. Records indicate that the ensemble was originally offered in the Maisonette Room of Neiman-Marcus. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30084/
Box style jacket of brown suede. Wide pointed collar and lapels. Long sleeves. Asymmetrical closing at center front with large appliqued circle patch pocket at right front and 2 large metallic silver buttons with bound buttonholes. Closure reinforced with two large snaps on waistband. Four 12" ties at waist band with1-1/2" diameter suede circles at ends. Lined in brown synthetic fabric.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York / Made in France"
Retailer's label at right front opening: "Neiman-Marcus / Trophy Room"
Label at left shoulder: "Made in France (rest illegible)" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503791/
- Mini Dress
Mini dress of bright red wool jersey knit. The tubular mini dress has a rounded neckline and short sleeves. Black, shiny vinyl trim at neckline, sleeve hem, lower hem, and in the form of six Pierre Cardin bullseye trademarks arranged in a triangle from natural waist to lower hem. At center back are hook and eye and zipper closure. Dress is unlined.
Designer's label: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York"
Care label: "The vinyl trim / on this garment / has been specially treated / to make dry cleaning possible". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87026/
Dinner dress of printed silk organza. The dress is composed of two parts. The caftan-like outer layer of the dress consists of a square silk organza cocoon printed in psychedelic motifs in purples, blues, pinks and chartreuse. It has a high rounded neckline with center back opening secured with six loops and covered buttons. There are applied flat cuffs at the wrist openings and waist-level slits at center front to accommodate the sash. There is a center front slit from hem to knee-level.
The inner dress is a matching, full-length, sleeveless sheath in printed silk of the same design. It has a high rounded neckline with center back zipper closure from neck to hip with a single hook-and-eye closure at the neckline. The outer caftan and inner sheath are joined at the neckline. There is a printed silk organza sash of the same fabric that meets at center front and secures with two hook-and-eye closures and has self ties to disguise closure. The sash is swing tacked at the back. There is a center front slit from the hem to knee-level. Lime green silk panels are inset at sideseams, running from the underarm to the hem, and may be later additions to the garment. The dress is fully lined in green silk crepe.
Designer's label located inside left center back, beside the zipper: Pierre Cardin / Paris New York". Retailer's label located inside right center back, beside the zipper: "Maisonette / Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30265/
Hat of pale purple or violet felt/velor. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat has a domed pale purple felt crown "stacked" on another domed form of the same felt. The lower form has a horizontal "tuck" near the base, enhancing the impression of the hat being stacked felt domes. On right side of the crown near base is an applied bow of the same felt. The hat is unlined, with an inner dark blue grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Stamped inside the crown: "Premier / Finest Quality / Imported / Velour"
Joint Designer's and Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Original / Expressly for / Neiman-Marcus".
Retains original Neiman-Marcus paper tag. Obverse: "Neiman-Marcus / B830 / x8SINZ / 7529x / 2995"; Reverse: "15 00"
With matching hatpin, the head covered with a small pad of the same felt as the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38111/
Hat of green felt. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat has a domed green felt crown, and a brim that folds up around the crown, extending almost as high as the crown in front. At the base of the crown, within the area of the brim, is a gather of brown veiling/netting that runs about 3/4 of the circumference of the crown. The hat is unlined, with an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband at the inside base of the crown. A stitched mark on the hatband indicates the front of the hat.
Designer's / Retailer's combined label: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Original / Expressly for / Neiman-Marcus"
Stamped inside crown: "Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39094/
Hat of beige felt/velor. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat has a domed beige felt crown "stacked" on another domed form of the same felt. The outer crown is "cut open" and "peeled back", to reveal the crown below. The lower edge of the crown is rolled up and in to create the appearance of a narrow rolled brim. The hat is unlined, with an inner dark beige grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Casual"
Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus"
Supplier's mark stamped inside crown: "Riviera / Finest Quality / Velour / Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38112/
- Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of navy blue straw. Straw is patterned to look like flattened bow ends; brimless.
Designer's label: "Hattie Carnegie" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38081/
- Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of black velvet. Crown has cut-away sections that expose net lining. At front left and right are pink and blue faceted decorative stone trim pieces edged in white pearl beads. Short black net veil with chenille dots.
Stamp on inside crown: "Made in France"
Designer's label: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc. / Original"
Retailer's label below designer's label: "Weathered / Misses Shop / Chicago" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114927/
Straight cape/cloak of black long-hair monkey fur. Full length, no arm holes, arm slits nor sleeves and no collar. 5 heavy hook and eye closures down center front. Fully lined in black wool crepe-felted. Very heavy. Likely to be Colobus monkey.
Designer's label at right side at seam "Hattie Carnegie"
Retailer's label at back center top "Neiman-Marcus Dallas"; digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286874/
- Cloche Hat
Hat of green felt. Designed as a modified cloche, the had is formed of a deep, domed crown of green felt with a rolled edge at back that extends to become a high, curved brim in front. The front extension is crowned by a feathered ornament formed as a stylized bird looking downwards. The "bird" has tan and dark feathers for the tail, green feathers for neck and breast, and a black plastic(?) beak. Around the base of the crown is a band of dark gray/bronze colored net trimmed with chenille dots, which extends at front and sides to become a veil. Around inside of crown is dark brown/black grosgrain ribbon band.
Sewn to inner ribbon band is maker's label: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Custom Made" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114925/
- Cloche Hat
Modified cloche hat of dark blue velour. The oval body of the cloche is designed to be worn cross-wise on head, with one side dipping lower than the other. The sides are decorated with star motifs in dark blue sequins, beads and velvet circlets. Unlined, with inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon and edged with a dark purple(?) band.
Designer's and Retailer's combined label: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Original / Expressly for / Neiman-Marcus"
Stamp on inside crown illegible. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39215/
- Cloche Hat
Cloche style hat of black velour with extended right side. Extended side has 3 cutouts covered with net.
Stamp on inside crown: "Dubarry / illegible"
Designer's label: " Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Original / Expressly for / Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39222/
Ensemble of black wool. The outfit consists of:
A) Dress of black wool. Street-length skirt has attached low front leather belt which passes through pleats on left and right. Bodice has narrow collar and deep V-neck with piping that twists at base of V. Bracelet length sleeves with cuffs. Back zipper. No labels.
B) Jacket of black wool. Jacket has long sleeves with rolled, notched cuffs, and a notched collar. Center front opening has 5 circular, plastic buttons and covered buttonholes. The padded hips have double welt pockets at left and right. The jacket is lined in black silk.
Combined Designer/Retailer label: "Neiman-Marcus dallas / Hattie Carnegie"
National Recovery Board / Coat and Suit Industry label "000006" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283689/
Hat of straw and velvet. The short, cylindrical crown is of woven natural-colored straw, with off-center "peak". The crown is edged along top with a narrow band of orange velvet. The sides of the crown are covered in black velvet, and there is an inner band of black velvet-covered straw that extends below the sides of the crown. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. On the band, a small sewn start designates the front of the hat.
Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Custom Made", and with a (later?) price tag attached.
Accompanied by a short hatpin, the head covered with woven straw matching the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38031/
Hat of navy blue straw. The turban-like hat is composed of a bulbus crown of woven navy blue straw which is edged in grosgrain ribbon. For one-half of the distance around the hat, the ribbon is dark navy blue, for the other half it is red. The two ends cross over in the front, with ends extending upwards on the front of the hat. The hat is unlined, with an inner dark blue grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38030/
Hat of gray felt. The domed crown is constructed with the the outline of a rounded square, with attached stiffened double-brim, which turns up on all sides, forming a point at front and at sides, but rounded in back. At the back of the hat the brim extends downwards, forming a point. The hat is unlined, and edged with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. A small stitched star on the hatband indicates the front of the hat. Visible behind the ribbon in one section is the woven straw backing used to stiffen the brim.
Designer's label inside crown, sewn to ribbon band: "Hattie Carnegie / Custom Made"
Stamped inside crown on felt: Circular mark containing a logo of three rabbits and partly missing word "... URLAP", and below logo ".... en France". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38028/
Hat of green felt. Designed as a modified cloche, the had is formed of a deep, domed crown of green felt with a rolled edge at back that extends to become a high, curved brim in front. The front extension is crowned by a feathered ornament formed as a stylized bird looking downwards. The "bird" has tan and dark feathers for the tail, green feathers for neck and breast, and a black plastic(?) beak. Around the base of the crown is a band of dark gray/bronze colored net, which extends at front and sides to become a veil. Around inside of crown is dark brown/black grosgrain ribbon band.
Sewn to inner ribbon band is maker's label: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Custom Made" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30118/
Hat of burnt ocher/light brown felt. The hat is styled somewhat like a beret, with low, slightly domed oval crown. The crown is embellished with scattered beading, in a pattern of golden, clear, and purple beads in strings of four or five, and with scattered larger oval cabochon golden yellow "gems". The edge of the crown folds under at front, and folds back out at sides to form slight brim. Around the front half of the hat is attached a veil of black which is formed from two different designs of netting, sewn together. The upper veiling is of wide hexagonal mesh, while the lower veiling is a smaller hexagonal mesh, sewn to the upper with a scrolling brown thread forming loops and curves. The hat is unlined, with a brown grosgrain inner hatband at inside base of crown.
Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie".
Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Chez Jeré / Shreveport, LA.".
Paper merchandise tag stitched to inner hatband: Obverse: "7112 / DNHH"; Reverse: "Tortuise / 55.00 [marked out] / 27.50" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39047/
Hat of navy blue wool felt. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat is formed as a low crown of navy blue wool felt. At the back of the crown are nine staggered tucks running from the lower edge of crown to top, and then being tucked over and into a cut-out from 9 uneven tucks which radiate downward from the top of the crown towards the front of the hat. The hat is unlined, with an inner black/navy blue grosgrain ribbon hatband around inside base of crown. A stitched mark on hatband indicates front of hat.
Designer's label is sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Casual"
Retailer's label is sewn to inner hatband: "Washer Bros / Fort Worth" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39227/