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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Country: France
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Ensemble
Ensemble in black and oatmeal colored wool, consisting of: A) Jacket: Semi-fitted wool in abstracted herringbone weave with black and oatmeal yarns running double throughout; moderately rounded neckline with asymmetrical mandarin collar; full-length raglan sleeves with overarm seam and undersleeve; double breasted front opening with eight round, plastic, oatmeal colored buttons and four bound buttonholes supplemented by single hook & eye inside lap at waist; vertical welt pockets on front lined in black silk; fully lined in black silk. Designer's label at inside collar: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris" and "Made in France". Retailer's label at inside side seam: "Neiman-Marcus" B) Dress: Knee length dress; bodice of black wool gauze with jewel neckline; sleeveless; lapped centerfront opening with four round self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes supplemented by single snap and hook & eye; bodice gathers into seam at natural waistline; gathered hip yoke of same gauze; straight skirt of matching herringbone has three snaps at centerfront opening; folded hem; gauze is lined in black silk organdy; skirt is unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30045/
Ensemble - Coat and Dress
a) Cocktail dress of dark green jacquard silk with black field in a pebble motif. Fitted bodice is sleeveless with slight scoop neckline. Gathered, A-line skirt with inseam pockets. Knee-length. Skirt lined in black silk and bodice partially lined at neck with black organza. Left shoulder separates with 5 snaps. Centered, left side zipper with strapped hook & eye. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "EISA" b) Coat of self fabric has sewn down, drawstring neckline. Three-quarter length raglan sleeves. Open front; knee-length. Fully lined in black taffeta with interlining of stiff netting for fullness. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "EISA" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30110/
Ensemble - Coat, Tunic, and Pants
Ensemble consisting of: a) Coat of silver lame with jeweled buttons lined in same black wool jersey as dress. b) Tunic top of black wool jersey. Sleeveless with two side slit pockets. Closure at back with two snaps and self-covered buttons. Lined in black silk. c) Pants of heavy black wool jersey. Double side zippers. Designer Label: "EISA" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30141/
Ensemble - Evening Gown and Stole
a) Evening gown of black wool and silk taffeta; top of wool with low scooped, curved neckline cut deep in back with 3/4 sleeves; fitted bodice extends to hip; skirt of silk taffeta; gathered; with silk underskirt. b) Stole of black wool with silk ruffled ends. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30159/
Evening Cape
Evening cape of pale pink silk gazar; oversized, rectangular shaped with shoulder corners turned-in forming diagonal armholes. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30202/
Evening Dress
Evening dress of black silk crepe with jewel neckline, and three-quarter length sleeves; completely hand embroidered in turquoise, white and gold paillettes; knee-length. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30109/
Evening Ensemble
Evening ensemble consisting of gold brocade evening gown trimmed in white mink with matching coat and detachable train. A) Evening coat of gold brocade. Ballerina length with short, dolman sleeves. Banded neckline. Center front opening is cutaway in front below waist and tapers to hem. Lined in gold metallic organdy. B) Evening dress of gold brocade with white mink fur trim at the neckline and hips. Full length with princess seaming and slight A-line to skirt. Scooped back. Fur trim around neckline and back goes over shoulders to form straps of dress. Center back zipper. Belt of fur at hips closes in back the 3 covered hook & eyes. Skirt lined in white tulle. Bodice is boned and lined in white netting and closes in back with hook & eyes. Designer's Label: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris" Model label behind designer's label: "74184" C) Detachable train of gold brocade. Train is rectangular in shape and gathers into smocking where it attaches to back of dress with snaps and hook & eyes. Floor length. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30097/
Evening Gown
Evening gown of black silk with black mink around the neckline and hem; V-neckline; sleeveless; full-length, A-line from waist. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30142/
Evening Gown
Evening gown of black velvet with hand embroidered pearls, rhinestones, and beads along side seams and hem; sleeveless; full-length; scoop neckline. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30143/
Evening Gown
Evening gown of red velvet. Floor length with wide, rounded neckline with deep scoop in back and 3/4 raglan sleeves. 1/2" and 1/4" round pearl beads sewn 2" apart over entire dress. Full-length, natural waist A-line skirt with slight train. Zipper closure at center back. Unlined with bodice and sleeved interfaced in maroon silk chiffon. Designer's label at inside right side seam under arm: "EISA" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30193/
Evening Gown
Evening gown of black rayon velvet; bustle trimmed with ermine tails; column shaped; built-in undergarment with boning; bustle lined in buckram. In box with dress: box with spare tails from Balenciaga. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30144/
Gown
a) Gown of pale pink tulle heavily hand embroidered in pink flowers with silver metallic thread, sequins and rhinestones. Strapless with full-length, A-line skirt. Underskirt of ivory stiffened silk and lined in ivory silk. b) Scarf of matching pale pink tulle. c) Original pink satin ribbon sash/belt d) Replacement modern pink satin ribbon sash/belt digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30105/
Hat
Hat of taupe leather. The soft-sided crown is somewhat domed. The brim is turned up, forming a "cuff" around the crown. At front is a large bow of the same leather. The hat is lined in white, and has an inner hatband of taupe grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label: "Balenciaga / 10, Avenue George V. Paris" Origin label: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286779/
Hat
Cocktail hat of bias cut white draped wool. Front resembles a turban and is formed by four horizontal turned under pleats with 1-1/2" band. Sides and back resemble a beret, with the back folded up and trimmed with a tie bow of self at the center. Partly lined with reinforcing at front to support pleating. Ivory grosgrain ribbon inner headband and comb at front for securing hat to wearer's head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305404/
Hat
Hat of fine red baku straw. Hat resembles a bowler or derby style. Shallow 2" crown, with slightly rounded top. Has 1 1/2" wide slightly squared flat brim. 3/8" wide hat band of self ties in a small bow. Unlined with red grosgrain ribbon inner headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305418/
Hat
Hat of black silk organza. Overall effect is turban-like. Hat is formed with bias organza draped over calotte cap. Fabric drapes across back and is turned under at center back. 1-1/4" wide satin bow 2" above lower edge at center front. Lined with netting and has black grosgrain ribbon inner headband with comb at front for securing hat to wearer's head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305416/
Hat
Cocktail hat of black silk organza. Loosely draped bias from center front over rounded pillbox crown. Ends cross over and attach in back. Large black silk rose at center front. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305342/
Hat
Suit hat of white felt. Round crown with 2-3/4" wide brim curved upward on left side and downward on right side. One inch wide black grosgrain ribbon hat band that ties in a bow on right side. Lined in white netting with white grosgrain inner headband. Inside crown stamped: "Feutre / Fl├ęchet" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305389/
Hat
Hat of white organza. High pillbox crown, 4" deep. Bottom edge of crown encircled with 3" wide bias organdy that ties in large bow at center front. Lined in white silk with white grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Covered wires at sides for securing hat to wearer's head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305396/
Hat
Suit hat of black velour. Rounded 4" deep crown. 2" wide front upward turned brim. 1/2" wider at sides, turning downward at center back. Has large black ostrich feather tassel at center back. Lined in netting with gray grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Comb at center front for securing hat to wearer's head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305345/
Hat
Hat of black silk organza. Shallow crown with 5" wide, down-turned brim. Brim covered with large organza overlapping petals. Lined in net with black grosgrain inner headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305332/
Hat
Black satin toque hat. Cylindrical in form, with sides curving down along ears/temples. Slightly domed at top, and with an ornament at front consisting of a black satin bow and a group of curled black feathers. Label inside at back: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30132/
Hat
Hat of black velvet. The hat has a circular, slightly domed, crown completely covered in black velvet. At the front is attached a rhinestone and glass(?) brooch formed as firework spray. The central iridescent faceted stone is surrounded by rays or arms of lines of rhinestones simulating diamonds. Some rays arc over the brooch, some hang down. Most are only partly rigid, so that as the wearer moves the rays shimmer and the stones catch the light. The crown is lined in black fabric, with a black grosgrain ribbon running along the inner lower edge. Attached to the inner ribbon band is a plastic comb to help secure the hat to the wearer's head. No labels. Donor attributed the brooch to Balenciaga. Alternatively attributed to Robert Goossens of Paris, who is known to have supplied Balenciaga. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30164/
Hat
Hat of leopard fur. Similar to a baseball cap, the hat has a pillbox style crown with a crescent-moon shaped visor / brim at front, both completely covered in leopard fur. Around the base of the crown is a black leather hatband. The interior of the crown is lined in a cream brocade cloth, while the visor is lined in leopard. Along the interior base of the crown is a dark brown grosgrain ribbon band. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30161/
Hat
Hat of moss green "plush" velvet. The derby-style hat has domed cylindrical crown with indentations at front and slight crease along crown. Narrow brim, rolled upwards at sides and back. To left of center front is small attached "fan" of various types and colors of feathers. Inside crown is attached small length of black grosgrain ribbon to maintain the front indentations, and a band of black grosgrain ribbon along inside base of crown. Stamped inside crown: Feutre Flechet. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30163/
Hat
Hat of reddish-pink wool. The derby style hat has a domed crown made of four sections of cloth that meet at center. Each section has chevrons of stitching, which point towards the center of the crown, giving a subtle quilted effect. Narrow brim rolls upwards at sides and back. A black suede(?) bow is applied to base of crown at center left. Inside base of crown is a band of pink grosgrain ribbon. Sewn to inner ribbon band is maker's label: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris" and label "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30237/
Hat
Cocktail hat of violet silk satin. The hat is formed of a low, cylindrical, flat-topped pillbox-style crown covered in drapes of violet/purple silk satin fabric. At center front/top of the crown are two large sculptural stiffened loops of the fabric. Crown is lined in cream fabric. Along inside lower edge of crown is a cream grosgrain ribbon band. No labels. Donor stated: "...worn on back of head with upstanding loops in front, made for a grey lace three-quarter cocktail dress..." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30176/
Hat
Hat of black silk chiffon. The hat is formed from a cylindrical pillbox style hat surmounted by a conical section that is folded back and flares out to form an extension behind the hat. Where the surmounting piece meets the pillbox is a black bow formed from the same cloth. Inside of crown is lined in stiff black netting, and has a black grosgrain ribbon running along the base of the crown. A small plastic comb is sewn in front of hat to inner ribbon to secure it to wearer's head. No labels. The donor records that "... Balenciaga showed it with dress and sleeveless coat..." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30135/
Hat
Cossack-style hat of brown sable fur. Lined, with black grosgrain ribbon headband. Designer label sewn to headband: "Balenciaga / 10. Avenue George V. Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330438/
Hat
Cossack-style hat of brown sable fur. Lined, with black grosgrain ribbon headband. Designer label sewn to headband: "Balenciaga / 10. Avenue George V. Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330536/
Mushroom Hat
Mushroom hat of red/orange baku straw. Uniquely cut crown is square with points at front and back. Four side panels are formed off of sides of square crown. Lined in white gauze material with red/orange grosgrain ribbon inner headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305425/
Mushroom Hat
Cocktail mushroom hat of black silk gazar. Over-sized, with flat top and slightly downward turned 6" brim. Pillbox inner crown with black grosgrain inner headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305385/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black silk faille. The cylindrical crown is flat at top, and has one large ruby red silk rose at center front of the side. Lined in black satin, with a single comb inside to secure hat to wearer's head. No label in hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305384/
Pillbox Hat
Brown velvet pillbox cocktail hat. The low, circular crown of the hat is slightly domed. At front of hat is pinned a large 3-dimensional pear-shaped openwork jeweled ornament of gold wire set with various colors and shapes of stones. Inside of hat lined in black cloth. Around inside lower edge of crown is brown grosgrain ribbon band. Sewn to inner band is a plastic comb to help secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner ribbon band: "Eisa". The jeweled ornament is attributed to Robert Goossens of Paris, who is known to have supplied Balenciaga. Donor notes of this hat: "...to wear with short black cocktail dresses." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30150/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black velvet. The low, cylindrical, slightly domed hat is completely covered in black velvet. Affixed to the center front of the hat is a roughly fan-shaped aigrette of simulated gems and metallic braid with a surmounting spray of white feathers. The crown is lined in black fabric, and has a black grosgrain ribbon running along the inside bottom edge. Sewn to the inner ribbon is a plastic comb to secure the hat to the wearer's head. No labels. The aigrette is attributed to Robert Goossens, of Paris, who is known to have supplied to Balenciaga. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30205/
Pillbox Hat
Hat of black silk tulle and satin in the form of a low pillbox of black silk tulle, tapering slightly to the shallow-domed crown. On the right side is a cascade of dyed green ostrich feathers. No designer's label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30179/
Skirt Suit
Suit of brown and black wool tweed consisting of jacket, skirt, and vest. a) Jacket: princess line jacket of black and brown wool tweed with ivory slubs running through fabric; V-neckline with narrow notched collar and lapels; full-length sleeves are cut with the jacket body and have two triangular shaped gussets under the arm; sleeves are rolled up to form 1-1/2 cuffs; button front closure; buttons of black crocheted cord surrounding a round faceted black gem. b) Skirt of self fabric with self buttons down center-front; mid-length. c) Vest of self fabric with fabric covered buttons down center-front; fitted; approximately 1" wide shoulder straps. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30008/
Skirt Suit
Light and charcoal gray two-piece daytime skirt suit with leather belt. Fitted jacket of light gray heavy weight wool, having a V-neckline with moderate shawl collar. 3/4 length sleeves are cut in one with jacket body and supplemented by one triangular shaped gusset under the arm. Lapped centerfront opening with two large, round, gray plastic buttons and bound buttonholes supplemented by single hook&eye at waist seam. One pair of faux pocket flaps at bust level. Leather belt. Plain slim skirt of dark charcoal gray wool, just below knee-length. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30007/
Skirt Suit
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30019/
Skirt Suit
Charcoal gray wool two-piece suit. (a) Jacket: Fitted jacket of gray diamond twill wool; V-neckline with notched collar and peaked lapels; full-length, two piece, set in sleeves; lapped center front opening with two round, black, plastic buttons and bound buttonholes with snaps between buttons; fronts have shoulder and waist darts; two pairs of faux pocket flaps with buttons on fronts at bust and hip; back has low-slung, self fabric belt buttoned on above two faux vents at hem; fully lined in gray silk. (b) Skirt: Matching princess line, knee length skirt with narrow rolled waistband; straight hip yoke all around; inverted box pleat falls from yoke at center back; offset left side back zipper closure supplemented by one hook&eye closure on waistband; hem is faced with gray silk; fully lined in gray silk. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30131/
Skirt Suit
Two-piece suit of black and ivory plaid wool with black silk blouse. (a) Jacket: Short unfitted jacket of black and ivory windowpane plaid wool; V-neckline with standard notched collar and short lapels.;3/4 length sleeves cut in one with jacket body supplemented by single triangular gusset under arm; lapped centerfront opening with three round, plastic, ivory buttons and bound buttonholes; front has a large pair of faux pocket flaps at lower chest level; fully lined in white silk. (b) Blouse: Semi-fitted short black silk faille blouse with jewel neckline; 3/4 length sleeves are cut in one with blouse body and supplemented by single triangular shaped gusset under arm; centerfront opening laps left over right with four round, black, plastic buttons and bound buttonholes with one snap at neck; folded hem; facings and hem interfaced with black silk organza. Label stitched at bottom of back neck facing. (c) Skirt: Matching plaid semi-tailored, knee length skirt with narrow rolled waistband; slight gathers at front waist; offset left side front zipper closure supplemented by single hook&eye closure on waistband; folded hem; fully lined in white silk. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30115/
Toque
Toque of black satin. Pillbox-like hat has cylindrical crown, slightly domed, and is completely covered in black satin. At front, near base of crown, is a black satin bow from which rises a spray of black feathers. Interior of crown fully lined in black satin, with a black grosgrain ribbon band at base of crown. Sewn to the inner ribbon band is a plastic comb to secure the hat to the head of the wearer. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30134/
Dress
Dress of black wool with black leather trim. The street-length dress has a standup collar trimmed in snaps. Front opening is leather trimmed and has 5 self-covered snaps. Detachable front skirt panel is edged along top with black leather trim and secured with 5 self-covered snaps. Bracelet length sleeves trimmed with snaps at cuff. Back zipper. Fully lined in black satin. Handwritten label on inside back seam: "Pierre Balmain Fall 1955" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283720/
Parure - Hat, Bracelets, Necklace, Belt
Parure made of natural, brown, and black woven/plaited straw, consisting of: A) Hat. Styled as an oversized calotte (also spelled "calot") or small cloche. The domed crown is constructed of radiating segments of woven/plaited straw in bands of brown, natural/tan, and black. At the top of the crown is a circle of black straw. Slightly scalloped lower edge. Designer's(?) label inside: "Marcelle Biot / 30 Rue de Valois / Paris" and 'Made in France" Three matching bracelets: B) Natural/tan straw bracelet, with a single band of brown straw and a single band of black straw. Black metal clasp. C) Brown straw bracelet, with a single band of black straw and a single band of natural/tan straw. Black metal clasp. D) Black straw bracelet, with single band of brown straw and a single band of natural/tan straw. Black metal clasp. Each bracelet with label: "Made in France". E) Matching necklace of bands of natural/tan straw and brown straw, with thin bands of black straw. Designed as a modified "bib" necklace, wider at center and narrowing to clasp ends. Black metal clasp. F) Matching belt, with lengthwise bands of natural/tan straw and brown straw, with thin bands of black straw. Black straw "buttons" and loops. "Made in France" label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39138/
Hat
Hat of gold felt. Alpine adaptation style sport hat with sunken crown. Brown grosgrain ribbon hatband and orange pheasant quill trim. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer label: "Blanche & Simone / Paris . 1 Rue de la Paix 1 . Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114876/
Cloche Hat
Cloche style hat of black Milan straw cloth with small, slightly pointed front brim. Hat is folded across width of crown towards front. Narrow black velvet ribbon trim meeting to form a bow at front with wreath of folded ribbon at base of bow. Unlined with elastic band to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Louise Bourbon (barely legible) / 13 Rue Royale Paris" Tag attached to designer's label: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114866/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox like hat of burnt sienna colored velvet. Standing brim and self bow. Top knot of self as trim. Crown close fitting like a calotte. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label on inside hatband: " Erik Braagaard / Paris / 8 rue St. Florentin" Label attached to top of designer's label: "Made in France" Model label under designer's label (partly illegible): "00 314" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114877/
Hat
Hat of black felt, brimless toque style. Cylindrical crown, rounded at top shoulders with extending cockscomb of three tiers extending upwards. Designer's label: "Bruyere / 4, Rue de Rondovi_Paris" Tag above designer's label: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114868/
Sandals
Pair of women's sandals of silver metallic leather. Designed as "gladiator style" sandals, with six narrow silver leather criss-crossed or interwoven straps at front over vamp, and six more similar straps extending around ankle and originating from vertical band at heel. 5" zipper along heel band. Designer's label on both sides of sole: "Barbara Bui" Impressed on underside of sole: "Made in Spain" and "40". Attached sticker under sole showing pictograms indicating which parts of shoe are leather. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87113/
Dress
Dress of bright lime green wool. Knee-lenght and sleeveless, with a high neckline ornamented with 6 rows of topstitching. Empire waisted, with the lower portion of dress split into four long panels, scalloped to form petals with quilted, topstitched edges. Center back zipper with two hook & eyes. Upper portion of dress lined in lime colored acetate. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York" Retailer's label beneath designer's label: "Marie Leavell" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286835/