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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Decade: 1900-1909
Mourning Ensemble - Bodice and Skirt

Mourning Ensemble - Bodice and Skirt

Date: 1900/1903
Creator: unknown
Description: Black silk mourning ensemble consisting of bodice and skirt. The bodice of black silk is fitted and boned, with a high, standing black silk band collar with appliqued black lace medallions. It has full-length, modified bishop sleeves that gather into the armseye. Below the gathered cap, in the portion corresponding to the upper arm, the fullness of the sleeve is controlled with top-stitched vertical tucks. From the elbow to the cuff the fullness is again released in a bishop sleeve silhouette. The sleeves gather again into wide black silk cuffs with appliqued black lace medallions and four narrow bands of black velvet ribbon. The bodice front is constructed on the lines of a bolero jacket, with a deep V-shaped opening and wide ruffled collar which is constructed of horizontally tucked black crepe-patterned silk. The released fullness of the tucking creates the ruffled finish. The ruffled portion is edged with two narrow bands of black velvet ribbon. The bodice front has a bib fill of gathered black silk and tulle net that is secured with hook-and-eyes beneath the left collar overlay. The fill area disguises the true front opening which is secured with thirteen hook-and-eyes. The main body of the bodice, ...
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Mourning Fan

Mourning Fan

Date: 1900/1925
Creator: unknown
Description: Folding mourning fan. Guards and sticks of plain black wood, shaped but not adorned. The leaf is of plain black cloth. No visible labels, marks or signatures.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ocarina

Ocarina

Access: Use of this item is restricted to the UNT Community.
Date: 1900/1925~
Creator: unknown
Description: The musical instrument has a dark shiny glaze with a cartouche of flowers and gold flower and foliage embellishment around the curved edges.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pumps

Pumps

Date: 1900
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of lady's dancing pumps of red kid leather. The shoes, designed with gently pointed toes, are of soft red fine kid leather leather with a square-ended flap at vamp/instep, and applied red satin bow at vamp. The inner sole of the shoe is a dark red quilted satin. The low heels are styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and straight across at front. Heels covered with matching leather. Sole of black leather at heel and tan on rest of shoe. Stamped in sole on one shoe: "2", on other: "4".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pumps

Pumps

Date: 1905
Creator: unknown
Description: None
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pumps

Pumps

Date: 1900?
Creator: unknown
Description: Pumps of gray suede. Shoes have a slightly rounded toe, and a wide strap across vamp to which is applied a large gray ribbon bow with central silver-colored metal rectangular buckle shape. Medium 1 3/4' high modified Louis or cuban heel.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Riding Boots

Riding Boots

Date: 1900/1920
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of lady's riding boots of black/dark brown leather. The "high button shoes" are designed with pointed toes gently rounded at tips, the boots lace up along the back with 12 holes/hooks. Lined in white fabric. High heels are rounded at sides and back, flaring slightly to base, and curved at front. Black leather soles. Hand-written note: "3-13 / 38405 / 413" Retailer's label stamped in gilt, mostly illegible: "Portland Ore" Brand stamped in gilt: "STEPINSHU / Trade Mark / Pat. Applied" Stamped in sole: "WICHERT"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Sarangi

Sarangi

Access: Use of this item is restricted to the UNT Community.
Date: 1900~
Creator: unknown
Description: The instrument appears squat as the neck and body run together. There are many strings and pegs on both the side and the front of the instrument.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoes

Shoes

Date: 1901/1909
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of dark brown kid leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, lace closed along center front with laces 18 holes high. Medium height heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, tapering to base, and with curved front section. Sole of black leather. Partially illegible notation stamped inside on lining: "050 8186K 6"(?)
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoes

Shoes

Date: 1907
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of white kid ladies' shoes. Styled with pointed-toes, the white kid leather upper has a vamp decorated with geometric and stylized foliate designs in crystal beads. The shoes secure across instep with single ribbon tie on each, creating a "peep" just above toes. Lined in white leather. Natural brown leather sole. Heel is of medium height, rounded at back and tapering slightly to base. Similar to what would become a Cuban heel. Maker's code stamped inside: "35-C 3021" Worn by Norma Tiemann at her marriage to Val L. Lehmann in Brenham, Texas in 1907.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design