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UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Texas Fashion Collection
Hat of ivory fur felt. High, cylindrical crown is slightly peaked at front and rounded at back, with flat top having sunken central area. Base of crown encircled by wide ivory grosgrain ribbon hatband with applied "D" shaped gilt metal rhinestone set buckle form, from which extends ends of ribbon. Narrow brim slants downwards, and is slightly wider in front than back. Hat is unlined, with inner ivory grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Designer's label on inner hatband: "Betmar"
Maker's stamp inside crown: "Merrimac / Merri Soie"(?) digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501381/
Handbag of canvas and brown leather. Adjustable shoulder strap with brass buckle attached with snaps and brass trim and hardware. Flap opening has snap closure and is trimmed with brass design resembling two overlapping circles. Interior lined in brown leatherette. Three interior compartments with one open pocket and one zippered pocket. Front-most compartment is of brown leather and forms a pouch.
Designer's stamp: "Bienen -Davis" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330406/
- Ensemble - Vest and Skirt
Ensemble of mauve suede and feather-work, consisting of:
Vest of mauve suede with elaborate feather-work at each side of center-front opening. Feathers include taupe, brown and silver ostrich plumes, pheasant and small dark brown and white feathers; the designs accented at bottom with leaf appliques in violet fabric and in gold metallic reptile. The vest has a round neckline; the slightly angled center front opening having four hook & eye closures. Slightly curved hemline. Unlined. Total length: 19 3/8" (49.2cm).
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Becky Bisoulis"
Retailer label at base of designer label: "Marie Leavell" and size "M" tag at base of retailer label.
Skirt of mauve suede. Medium length. Straight, four panel skirt gathered to elasticized waistband. Deep, 11 7/8" (29.5cm) slit at lower left seam. Closure by invisible zipper at center back with large hook & bar on waistband. Lined with lilac silk crepe de chine. Total length: 27" (68.6cm).
Designer's label at right side seam: "Becky Bisoulis" with size "8" tag attached to base of label.
Retailer's label to right of designer label: "Marie Leavell" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701389/
Dress of ivory knit. Knee-length or slightly longer A-line dress, sleeveless, with rounded neckline. Narrow band of navy blue piping around armholes, neck-hole, and in an openwork section at top of right shoulder where piping outlines edges and is made to appear as if it is "laced" between the edges, with large floppy bow at top. Two slit side seam pockets, and two very thin navy blue string belt loops at sides. 6" slit at right side seam from hem upwards. Center back opening with zipper from neckline. Lined in cream.
Designer's label at right inside side seam: "Bill Blass"
Size label near designer's label: "8"
Care label near designer's label: "Professional / Dry Clean / Only"
Union label near designer's label.
With matching string belt of navy blue piping, with small circular covered button at one end and loop at other. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701469/
- Ensemble - Blouse and Skirt
Two piece skirt ensemble of navy blue linen consisting of:
Blouse with round high neckline having asymmetric bodice closure. Curved diagonal top edge extension with four purple plastic buttons and tailored buttonholes at left side and one button with snap at right neckline. Short sleeves with modified box caps (seams rather than tucks). Bodice cut short and full, with slight lower flare. Padded shoulders. Lined in dark blue silk satin. Length: 20 1/2" (52.1 cm). Length:
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Bill Blass"
Union label, cleaning instructions and size "6" tag at left side seam.
Skirt of medium length, straight, two panel style, gathered to narrow fitted waistband. Inseam slit pockets at both sides, with invisible zipper closure behind left pocket and large hook at waistband. Fully lined in same silk fabric as top. No designer label. 23 1/2" (59.7 cm).
Size "6" tag at left side seam. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701477/
- Evening Dress
Evening dress of chocolate brown wool crepe. Full length. Halter style empire bodice crosses in back. Princess seams. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Lined in brown synthetic.
Designer's label at back: "Bill Blass"
Union label and size "10" tags at center back seam below zipper. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701386/
- Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of gray fine plaid.
A) Jacket of gray fine plaid with an over-layer of black floral lace exposing the plaid; lace has scallop trim 2” above the wrists and hem of the jacket. Jacket has round neckline; 4 gray button closure down center-front; long sleeves with inner shoulder pads; lower hip length; fully lined in black synthetic.
B) Skirt of matching plaid with 1 ½” waistband with center-back zip and hook and eye closure; darts at front and back; lined in black synthetic; 17” length.
Designer's Label: "Bill Blass"
Retailer's label: "Neiman Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286873/
- Suit - Jacket and Skirt
Suit (jacket and skirt) ensemble of wool in taupe with rectangular and square color blocks of cobalt blue and red. Color blocks are lightly outlined in black giving a "drawn on" effect. Lined with white wool. Consists of:
A) Jacket in box style. Rounded neckline. Center front opening with no closure. Mid-thigh length. Long sleeves; padded shoulders.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Bill Blass"
Fiber content, cleaning instructions and size "8" tags attached to base of designer label.
B) Suit skirt. Below knee length. Shaped waist with no waistband. Navy blue grosgrain ribbon facing. Left side zipper with hook & eye.
Designer's label at center back waistline: "Bill Blass"
Fiber content tag has been removed.
Cleaning instructions and and "Front" tag at base of designer label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701432/
- Day Dress
Day dress of bright pink silk brocade in floral design. Bateau neckline. Sleeveless with French darts in bodice. Semi-pleated, below knee skirt. Side slit pockets. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Lined in pink silk with petersham of pink grosgrain with hook & eye.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Bill Blass / for / Maurice Rentner"
Union label at center back near bottom of zipper.
Retailer's label at center back seam: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501337/
- Summer Evening Dress
Summer evening dress of pink and white stripped cotton twill. Full length, with low, rounded/scooped neckline and short, slightly puffed sleeves. Empire waistline. Stripes on the bodice go from top right to lower left; stripes on the full skirt go from top left to lower right. Center back zipper with hook & loop at neckline and at waist. Bodice lined in self, skirt lined in white fine fabric.
Designer's label at inside back, near zipper: "Bill Blass / For / Maurice Rentner" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501352/
Dress of black cotton net embroidered with red, white, tan, brown, green and gold floral designs. Gathered scooped neckline interlaced with narrow, pale green silk grosgrain ribbon and scalloped and embroidered organdy ruffling, which is also used at wrist, waist, hip line and hem. Gathered ankle-length skirt. Left side zipper with hook & eye on lining and snaps on outer net layer. Skirt has additional under layer of black net. Bodice and skirt lined with silk chiffon; black grosgrain ribbon petersham with hook & eye at waist.
Designer's label at center back waist: "Christian Dior / Paris / Made In France / Printemps-Ete 1978" and stamped "0I0052"
Label attached at base of designer's label: "Made In France"
Neiman Marcus size and content label attached at bottom of previous two labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503757/
- Ensemble - Blouse and Skirt
Two-piece ensemble of black satin.
Blouse of wrap style, with surplice neckline squared at across back and front to collar bones, plunging into a V at front, and with long sleeves. Neckline, hem, and sleeves edged in 2" wide band of trapunto quilting work consisting of 6 rows of stitching. Long sleeves have 3" zippers at cuffs. 1-inch wide attached belt ties in back. Unlined.
No labels in bodice.
Matching skirt. Black, below-knee length, with narrow waistband into which skirt is gathered. Left side zipper, with hooks and eyes at waistband. Unlined.
Inside Label, typewritten on cloth tape: " JUPE 43 011020 NEIMAN MARCUS" or possibly "JUPE 43 OTTO 20 NEIMAN MARCUS" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503812/
- Suit - Jacket and Skirt
Suit of black wool consisting of:
Jacket of almost hip-length, with no collar; double breasted, with V neckline and 4 buttons center front, in rows of two. Two flap pockets front; two bust darts; Long sleeves with single button cuffs. Built-in shoulder pads, and fully lined.
Designer's label at inside back neck: "Christian Dior / The Suit / Paris New York"
Care label below Designer's label: "Dry Clean / Made in U.S.A."
Content label at side seam: "100% / Pure Wool"; "Professionally / Dry Clean / Low Moisture / Steam Press"
Skirt. Calf length, with narrow waistband. Knife pleated, with side zipper and button. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501315/
- Calotte Hat
Oval, calotte style hat of faded rose tucked satin with fabric flowers and petals in matching color. Flower at front of hat trimmed with small satin bow at center.
Retailer's label on inside back headband: "Bonnette / Highland Park Village" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114993/
Hat of multi-colored woven wool stripes. Designed somewhat as a toque, the hat has a cylindrical crown, tilted back, with flattened, recessed top and no brim. The fabric of the hat has alternating stripes of white, dark red, red, pink, dark blue, light blue, and gray, with the stripes arranged to form chevrons. lined in thin black fabric, with underlayer of medium gray.
Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Bonnette / Highland Park Village" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86976/
Hat of black ostrich feathers. The hat, designed with a domed crown, is completely covered with curling black ostrich feathers, giving it the look of a wig. Lined in black satin, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband, and with two small combs to help secure the hat to the wearer's head.
Designer's label: "Bonnette / Highland Park Village" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286813/
Hatlet of stiffened white mesh covered with artificial flowers. The low, domed crown is based on a form of stiffened white mesh which is completely covered by small artificial flowers in shades of very pale mauve/purple, almost taupe, and green leaves and stems. The hat is unlined, and has a light brown grosgrain ribbon inner hatband.
Designer's Label: "Bonnette / Highland Park Village" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286788/
- Evening Ensemble
Dress ensemble of white net lace embellished with silver bugle beads and tiny silver sequins, and beige silk chiffon:
A) Dress of beige silk. Bodice with round neckline and no sleeves, and 2" band at empire waistline; 9" upper portion of skirt of floral embroidered net accented with bugle beads and sequins with rows of scalloped bugle beads at bottom from which full-length beaded fringe falls to hem; skirt continues to full-length with vertical stripes of floral lace and silver bugle beads. 18" slit at center-front; center-back zip closure; fully backed with tan crepe.
Designer's label near waist inside dress: "by Alfred Bosand / New York".
B) Top of white net lace embellished with silver bugle beads and silver sequins; bust and long sleeves of vertical stripes of floral lace and silver bugle beads; lower portion and band collar of floral embroidered net accented with bugle beads and sequins with rows of scalloped bugle beads at top of scalloped collar, and below bust, separating the two sections; pull-over with elasticized waist and center-back snap closure; unlined except for band collar.
No label in top. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286944/
Hat of black velvet. The flat crown is surmounted by an arrangement of artificial lily-of-the-valley, with green cloth leaves and cloth and wire flowers/stems. From the back of the hat descends a black velvet snood to catch up the wearer's hair.
Designer's label sewn into back of snood: "Yvonne Boutin / 510 Madison Ave, N.Y." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39230/
- Kipper Tie
Wide kipper tie of large stylized paisley designs in yellows and gold on a blue field. Blue is somewhat faded from the original shade. The tie has a tag on reverse marked "Brent" and with the logo for Montgomery Ward.
The creation of the kipper tie, a form of extra-wide necktie known for bright colors and patterns, is credited to British designer Michael Fish. He brought out the earliest ones in the 1960's.
This example was a gift to the donor by his maternal grandmother, Mary Kathleen King Miller (1898-1969). digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30325/
Hat of yellow straw. The cylindrical crown is flattened at top and has a "ridge" of straw running from front to back. Around the base of the crown is a wide band of pleated yellow organza. The wide, somewhat floppy brim extends out and curves upwards. Unlined, with an inner yellow grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Label sewn to inner hatband: "Shari / Brett / originals" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276988/
- Cocktail Dress
Cocktail dress of black heavy wool crepe. Deep V-neckline trimmed with wide bands of various sized pearls, the bands extending to waistline. Long sleeves with zipper closure at ends. Mid-length skirt is gathered into natural waistline. Hook & eye closures at along deep center back opening (top, center, lower back); which is accented with pearls as front. Zipper closure at center back below waistband. Sewn-in shoulder pads. Fully lined in black silk(?)
Designer's label at inside left beside opening: "Donald Brooks"
Retailer's label at inside left, by shoulder pad: "Joske's / Houston" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701471/
Dress of diagonally ribbed silk of off-white with deep red/orange, large paisley print. Long sleeves with 2" cuffs secured with two self-covered buttons and loops. Above the knee length. 2.5 inch standing collar. Collar closes in back with self-covered button, loop and 4 snaps. Horizontal seam across bust and deep, inverted box pleats falling from sides under bust line; pleats mirrored in back. Four self-covered buttons below collar secured with loops down center back. Zipper in back center from beneath buttons. Lined in ivory silk crepe.
Designer's label at center back: "Donald Brooks" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501382/
Summer dress / Sundress of linen weave cotton in abstract floral design of black, yellow, red, white and green on purple background. Halter-style bodice and dirndl style skirt; midi length with slit up center front to thighs. Center back zipper with 2 hook & eyes. Side slit pockets. Lined in yellow crepe.
Designer's label at center back: "Donald Brooks" with handwritten style number(?) "825"
With kerchief of matching fabric. Triangular shape. Reverse side print is purple flowers on yellow background. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501342/
- Ensemble - Jacket, Skirt, Blouse and Scarf
Ensemble of teal silk Ottoman. The suit consists of a jacket and skirt, blouse, and scarf. The jacket is of horizontally ribbed teal silk, banded on the bias, has a rounded neckline, is long sleeved, and has princess seaming for a tailored fit. The sleeves have soft pleating at the shoulders, and there are 3 circular gold buttons set with rhinestones at each cuff. There is a center front closure with 4 large buttons matching the style of sleeve buttons and one hidden snap at top. The buttonholes are hidden in the seam of the opening. The jacket is lined in black silk. The jacket has designer's label sewn inside at back of neck: "Richard Brooks". The matching skirt is of the same silk Ottoman, below-knee length, with soft pleats at front and darts at back from waistband down 5 1/2". Small slit at center back from hem upwards. The sides are cut on straight vertical stripe. The waistband has hook and two eyes, and there is a center back zipper closure. The skirt is lined in teal silk. There are no labels in the skirt. The blouse is of a thin teal green and metallic gold jacquard, woven with an ornate all-over paisley pattern. There is a banded collar and slight pleating/gathering on front at yoke, and at top of the long sleeves. Center back zipper closure extends from collar almost to hem, and has two hook-and-eyes at collar. The blouse has attached shoulder pads. There is no label in the blouse. An accompanying scarf is of iridescent teal silk chiffon, edged with the same jacquard materials the blouse is made from. There is no label on the scarf.
Designed for Texas Governor Ann Richards.
The silk is from Abraham Fabric. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30305/
- Ensemble - Jacket, Skirts and Blouse
Ensemble of rose silk. The suit consists of a jacket, two skirts and a blouse. The jacket is made from a 1930's sari of pale pink silk embroidered with gold and silver threads, beads, and pink sequins in designs of vines, flowers and abstract line patterns. Jacket has a floating yoke and full leg-o-mutton sleeves with long narrow cuffs that have zipper closures. The jacket itself has a center front opening with no closure. The neckline, edges of closure, hem, and cuffs are edged in heavily beaded bands added by the designer. Designer's label sewn inside back at neck: "Richard Brooks". The blouse is of heavy pink silk, collarless, with round neckline. It is short-sleeved, with pleating at the shoulder. Vertical seaming on front and back for structure. There is a concealed center-back closure with snap at top and 5 clear plastic circular buttons down the length. The blouse is lined in a dark, dusty pink silk and has sewn-in shoulder pads. Designer's label is sewn inside back to the left of the opening: "Richard Brooks". The two skirts are are both of identical pink silk, matching the blouse, of identical construction. One is knee-length, and the other is full-length. Both are lined in the same pink silk as the jacket. The short skirt has designer's label sewn in at waistband: "Richard Brooks".
Worn by Governor Ann Richards when she spoke at the Gridiron Club in Washington, 1992. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30304/
Pillbox style hat of tan fur felt. High crown with 2 small black buttons pinching the fabric throughout. Eight small black buttons form a V with black and red satin tubing as trim on edge. Inner headband of black grosgrain ribbon.
Maker's label on inside headband: "Helen Brounet / California" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286856/
Pair of pumps of black reptile. Designed as sling-back pumps with rounded, open toes, the instep is made of wide crossed bands of black leather, enhanced with top-stitching. The sides are cut-away at ankle, and a single black strap extending around back of heel, secured with small oval gold buckle. The high heels are a modified stiletto, somewhat thick, but of same shape.
Combined designer's and retailer's stamp inside: "Bruno Magli / For / Bloomingdale's / Made in Italy"
Stamped inside: "R984 6 1/2"
Stamped on sole: "M / Vero / Cuoio / Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87038/
Navy blue and white leather pumps. All leather pumps of navy blue leather printed with a polka dot white button motif. Heel and toe of shoe are of solid navy blue leather. Lined in embossed gold leather. Black leather sole.
Designer's label stamped inside: "Bruno Magli / Made in Italy Bologna"
Satmped inside: "C 4141 11702 5 1/2B" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87063/
Cloche style hat of beige crocheted straw. The rounded crown with tucks and folds is created of beige straw which has been crocheted. Around base of crown is band of dark brown piping. Shallow brim is turned up around sides and back, with wide edge band of brown satin with parallel rows of stitching. Front of brim has radiating ridges worked into straw. Hat is lined with dark beige satin.
Designer's label sewn into crown: "Budwig / Ltd." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39117/
- Wedding Shoes
Pair of ladies' white heavy satin wedding shoes. Designed with pointed toes, the shoes have a fastening strap across instep with a single domed opalescent/milky white glass button. Across vamp is applied white satin bow with decorative gilt metal rectangular buckle with lobed ends. One buckle missing. Lined in white fabric. Sole of natural brown leather, heel covered in white satin. Medium-height heel with rounded sides and back, curving inwards and then flaring out to base, similar to a Louis heel.
Stamped inside shoe in gilt: "C.A. Verner / Pittsburgh"
Worn by Bess McChord (1874-1903) at her wedding to Clifford Dunnells, January 1, 1901. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39005/
Hat of muted violet straw. Styled somewhat as a sailor hat, the 2 1/2" conical crown is flattened at top, and has slightly sloping sides. Encircling the base of the crown is a 3/4" wide hatband of twisted muted cerise pink and purple velvet ribbons. At front of crown is a cluster of four velvet roses, 2 violet, 2 cerise with green leaves. Mounted above the roses is a violet velvet wrapped stand-up ornament with small bow at top, slightly to left of center front crown. The 4" wide flat brim has a narrow magenta velvet rolled band on underside of the outer edge. The hat is unlined, with an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Designer's label: "3410 Oak Lawn / Bernie A. Cahn / Dallas, Tex" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286890/
Hat of black, white, red, and ocher silk styled as a Garrison Cap (aka Side Cap, or Wedge Cap). Influenced by military headgear, this hat is constructed as a flat envelope, which opens along long edge to form a wedge-shaped crown. The cap is dyed in the Shibori technique, forming intricate designs outlined in white and filled in with red or ocher dots. Lined in black silk.
Designer's label inside: "3410 Oak Lawn / Bernie A. Cahn / Dallas, Tex." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277011/
Hat of pink straw. The open crown is of woven pink straw, as is the wide oval brim. At the front of the hat is a cluster of artificial flowers in pink velvet and green fabric. The hat is unlined, with two inner hatbands of grosgrain ribbon at the base of the crown - one band pink, the other of cream.
Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "3410 Oak Lawn / Bernie A. Cahn / Dallas, Tex"
Accompanied by a single short hatpin with a tan straw woven head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39162/
Hatlet of navy blue faille(?). The open-crown hatlet is formed of a circle of overlapping bows/gathers of fabric, overlaid with a fine mesh veil of navy blue. The hat is lined in a darker blue fabric, which just shows along some edges.
Designer's label: "Caprice / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305364/
- Day Dress
Day dress of bright yellow linen. Sleeveless with jewel neckline; contrasting, darker yellow top-stitching. Empire waist. Two paddle shaped patch pockets at sides with 1-1/4" non-functional buttons covered in white vinyl set in "handle" of each "paddle". Center back invisible zipper with hook & eye. Lined in bright yellow satin synthetic, with narrow band of pale yellow lace along selvage edge of fabric.
Designer's label at center back to left of zipper: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York"
Care label at inside back below zipper: "Dry Clean / Only"
Union label by care label.
Manufacturing label at inside center back below zipper: Order 2; 6764 / Style 10(?) / Size 10 / Remarks [blank], partly over-stamped "235 10" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701490/
Dress of bright red wool. Sleeveless; jewel neckline; knee length. Empire waist with inserted panel, quilted and top-stitched. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Kick pleat opening at center front seam. Lined in bright orange silk.
Designer's label at inside, back neckline: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286919/
Dress of bright lime green wool. Knee-lenght and sleeveless, with a high neckline ornamented with 6 rows of topstitching. Empire waisted, with the lower portion of dress split into four long panels, scalloped to form petals with quilted, topstitched edges. Center back zipper with two hook & eyes. Upper portion of dress lined in lime colored acetate.
Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York"
Retailer's label beneath designer's label: "Marie Leavell" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286835/
Dress of cream woven silk. Below knee length with 13" side slits. Long sleeves. Standing neckline with left side curving to asymmetrical decorative trim embellished with 5 large circular black plastic buttons ending at natural waist at center front. Center back invisible zipper with 2 hook & eyes. Lined in cream synthetic fabric.
Designer's label at back neckline to left of zipper: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701527/
- Ensemble - Bodystocking, Mini-Skirt and Belt
Ensemble consisting of three pieces. Full-length bodystocking is of heavy ivory wool knit, in a ribbed pattern running vertically throughout body and legs, and horizontally around arms. The garment has a turtle-neck and wide flaring cuffs at legs. Center back zipper opening from top of turtle-neck to mid-back. The black double knit wool micro-mini-skirt has four over-sized belt loops with pointed ends, and center back zipper closure. The ensemble includes a wide black patent-leather belt which secures with concealed snaps.
Bodystocking has two labels. Designer's label inside at back near zipper: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York"; Material/size label on opposite side: "100% / Wool / L"
The skirt has no labels. The belt is stamped on reverse: "12 1851"
From the Fall 1969/1970 season. Records indicate that the ensemble was originally offered in the Maisonette Room of Neiman-Marcus. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30084/
Box style jacket of brown suede. Wide pointed collar and lapels. Long sleeves. Asymmetrical closing at center front with large appliqued circle patch pocket at right front and 2 large metallic silver buttons with bound buttonholes. Closure reinforced with two large snaps on waistband. Four 12" ties at waist band with1-1/2" diameter suede circles at ends. Lined in brown synthetic fabric.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York / Made in France"
Retailer's label at right front opening: "Neiman-Marcus / Trophy Room"
Label at left shoulder: "Made in France (rest illegible)" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503791/
Jumper of chocolate brown jersey wool. Below knee length, with rounded neckline. Sleeveless, with squared armholes which have plackets over shoulders which extend down front to waistline and form opening for pockets. Six belt loops of same fabric. Center back hidden zipper with hook & eye. Lined in dark gray synthetic fabric.
Designer's label at back right shoulder: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York"
Retailer's label at back left shoulder: "Maisonnette / Neiman-Marcus"
Union label and size tag attached to back seam.
With belt of tan patent leather with brass buckle; 1-1/2" wide.
Stamped: "Pierre Cardin / 10 / Genuine / Patent Leather / 715" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701482/
Dinner dress of printed silk organza. The dress is composed of two parts. The caftan-like outer layer of the dress consists of a square silk organza cocoon printed in psychedelic motifs in purples, blues, pinks and chartreuse. It has a high rounded neckline with center back opening secured with six loops and covered buttons. There are applied flat cuffs at the wrist openings and waist-level slits at center front to accommodate the sash. There is a center front slit from hem to knee-level.
The inner dress is a matching, full-length, sleeveless sheath in printed silk of the same design. It has a high rounded neckline with center back zipper closure from neck to hip with a single hook-and-eye closure at the neckline. The outer caftan and inner sheath are joined at the neckline. There is a printed silk organza sash of the same fabric that meets at center front and secures with two hook-and-eye closures and has self ties to disguise closure. The sash is swing tacked at the back. There is a center front slit from the hem to knee-level. Lime green silk panels are inset at sideseams, running from the underarm to the hem, and may be later additions to the garment. The dress is fully lined in green silk crepe.
Designer's label located inside left center back, beside the zipper: Pierre Cardin / Paris New York". Retailer's label located inside right center back, beside the zipper: "Maisonette / Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30265/
Hat of pale purple or violet felt/velor. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat has a domed pale purple felt crown "stacked" on another domed form of the same felt. The lower form has a horizontal "tuck" near the base, enhancing the impression of the hat being stacked felt domes. On right side of the crown near base is an applied bow of the same felt. The hat is unlined, with an inner dark blue grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Stamped inside the crown: "Premier / Finest Quality / Imported / Velour"
Joint Designer's and Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Original / Expressly for / Neiman-Marcus".
Retains original Neiman-Marcus paper tag. Obverse: "Neiman-Marcus / B830 / x8SINZ / 7529x / 2995"; Reverse: "15 00"
With matching hatpin, the head covered with a small pad of the same felt as the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38111/
Hat of green felt. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat has a domed green felt crown, and a brim that folds up around the crown, extending almost as high as the crown in front. At the base of the crown, within the area of the brim, is a gather of brown veiling/netting that runs about 3/4 of the circumference of the crown. The hat is unlined, with an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband at the inside base of the crown. A stitched mark on the hatband indicates the front of the hat.
Designer's / Retailer's combined label: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Original / Expressly for / Neiman-Marcus"
Stamped inside crown: "Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39094/
Hat of beige felt/velor. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat has a domed beige felt crown "stacked" on another domed form of the same felt. The outer crown is "cut open" and "peeled back", to reveal the crown below. The lower edge of the crown is rolled up and in to create the appearance of a narrow rolled brim. The hat is unlined, with an inner dark beige grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Casual"
Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus"
Supplier's mark stamped inside crown: "Riviera / Finest Quality / Velour / Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38112/
- Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of navy blue straw. Straw is patterned to look like flattened bow ends; brimless.
Designer's label: "Hattie Carnegie" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38081/
- Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of black velvet. Crown has cut-away sections that expose net lining. At front left and right are pink and blue faceted decorative stone trim pieces edged in white pearl beads. Short black net veil with chenille dots.
Stamp on inside crown: "Made in France"
Designer's label: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc. / Original"
Retailer's label below designer's label: "Weathered / Misses Shop / Chicago" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114927/
Straight cape/cloak of black long-hair monkey fur. Full length, no arm holes, arm slits nor sleeves and no collar. 5 heavy hook and eye closures down center front. Fully lined in black wool crepe-felted. Very heavy. Likely to be Colobus monkey.
Designer's label at right side at seam "Hattie Carnegie"
Retailer's label at back center top "Neiman-Marcus Dallas"; digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286874/
- Cloche Hat
Hat of green felt. Designed as a modified cloche, the had is formed of a deep, domed crown of green felt with a rolled edge at back that extends to become a high, curved brim in front. The front extension is crowned by a feathered ornament formed as a stylized bird looking downwards. The "bird" has tan and dark feathers for the tail, green feathers for neck and breast, and a black plastic(?) beak. Around the base of the crown is a band of dark gray/bronze colored net trimmed with chenille dots, which extends at front and sides to become a veil. Around inside of crown is dark brown/black grosgrain ribbon band.
Sewn to inner ribbon band is maker's label: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Custom Made" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114925/