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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Decade: 1960-1969
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Evening Dress
Evening dress of black and white wool satin gaberdine with matching jacket. a) Evening dress. Front and back centered panels of white fabric with sides of black fabric. Sleeveless, squared neckline, full length. Center back zipper closure. Very tailored, completely lined in white silk. Designer's label at inside back zipper: "Jean Marie Armand / Paris / Made in France" b) Jacket. Center front opening with four covered snaps. Bracelet length sleeves with turned-back cuffs in white fabric with one pointed end. Peter Pan collar in white fabric. Front and back centered panels of white fabric with sides and sleeves of black fabric. Completely lined in white silk. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Jean Marie Armand / Paris / Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283691/
Hat
Hat of fine Milan off-white straw. Asymmetrical rolled-back brim is high in front and tapers to narrow back. Hatband of off-white organza scarf ties into bow in back as trim. Hatpin with clear, teardrop shaped head. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Atelier Lucas / Made in London" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277125/
Derby
Derby of hot pink leaves. Hat in the style of a derby, completely covered in various shades of hot pink leaf-shapes cut out of velvet, satin, and other fabrics. Cylindrical crown, up-turned brim. The hat is lined in hot pink fabric and has a pink grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Sewn into the inner hatband is a homemade(?) hand embroidered label: "Jo Bailey Hats" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30291/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black silk satin with a puff of ostrich feathers at right side. Organza bow atop feathers. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30178/
Ball Gown
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30194/
Calotte
Calotte of beaded black satin. Evening hat in the form of a calotte (also spelled "calot"). The low, domed crown is made of segments of black satin over a core of woven straw. The surface is embellished with black plastic sequins and beads of various sizes. At top of crown is small squashed spheroid finial covered with a pattern of cylindrical and circular faceted black plastic beads. Inside lower edge of crown is black grosgrain ribbon band. Sewn behind band are three elastic loops to help secure hat to head of wearer. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30149/
Coat
Coat of deep pink and white plaid wool. Double breasted with six circular plastic deep pink buttons and covered buttonholes. Bracelet length sleeves; street length. Two front vertical single welt pockets. Half belt across back of same material with two circular plastic deep pink buttons and covered buttonholes at ends. Lined in deep pink silk. Designer's label: "Balenciaga / 10, Avenue George V. Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283737/
Derby Hat
Derby style hat of navy blue velour. High, domed 4" deep crown with narrow upward curved brim. Unlined with blue grosgrain ribbon inner headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305372/
Ensemble
Ensemble of oatmeal colored wool tweed: a) Jacket of beige and black wool tweed with V-neckline with standard notched collar and wide lapels; short, princess seams; 3/4 length, set in, two piece sleeves; double breasted opening with four round, plastic, beige buttons and two bound buttonholes supplemented by single large covered snap inside lap at waist; fully lined in beige silk. Label stitched inside back neck below collar. b) Dress of same; sleeveless; falling just below the knee; deep rounded neckline; empire waist seam; straight skirt has slight gathers in front; left side underarm zipper closure supplemented by single hook&eye closure; folded hem; armhole and neck facings; brassiere strap keepers snap inside shoulders; unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30050/
Hat
Hat of black silk chiffon. The hat is formed from a cylindrical pillbox style hat surmounted by a conical section that is folded back and flares out to form an extension behind the hat. Where the surmounting piece meets the pillbox is a black bow formed from the same cloth. Inside of crown is lined in stiff black netting, and has a black grosgrain ribbon running along the base of the crown. A small plastic comb is sewn in front of hat to inner ribbon to secure it to wearer's head. No labels. The donor records that "... Balenciaga showed it with dress and sleeveless coat..." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30135/
Hat
Black satin toque hat. Cylindrical in form, with sides curving down along ears/temples. Slightly domed at top, and with an ornament at front consisting of a black satin bow and a group of curled black feathers. Label inside at back: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30132/
Hat
Hat of leopard fur. Similar to a baseball cap, the hat has a pillbox style crown with a crescent-moon shaped visor / brim at front, both completely covered in leopard fur. Around the base of the crown is a black leather hatband. The interior of the crown is lined in a cream brocade cloth, while the visor is lined in leopard. Along the interior base of the crown is a dark brown grosgrain ribbon band. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30161/
Hat
Hat of black velvet. The hat has a circular, slightly domed, crown completely covered in black velvet. At the front is attached a rhinestone and glass(?) brooch formed as firework spray. The central iridescent faceted stone is surrounded by rays or arms of lines of rhinestones simulating diamonds. Some rays arc over the brooch, some hang down. Most are only partly rigid, so that as the wearer moves the rays shimmer and the stones catch the light. The crown is lined in black fabric, with a black grosgrain ribbon running along the inner lower edge. Attached to the inner ribbon band is a plastic comb to help secure the hat to the wearer's head. No labels. Donor attributed the brooch to Balenciaga. Alternatively attributed to Robert Goossens of Paris, who is known to have supplied Balenciaga. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30164/
Hat
Hat of moss green "plush" velvet. The derby-style hat has domed cylindrical crown with indentations at front and slight crease along crown. Narrow brim, rolled upwards at sides and back. To left of center front is small attached "fan" of various types and colors of feathers. Inside crown is attached small length of black grosgrain ribbon to maintain the front indentations, and a band of black grosgrain ribbon along inside base of crown. Stamped inside crown: Feutre Flechet. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30163/
Hat
Hat of fine red baku straw. Hat resembles a bowler or derby style. Shallow 2" crown, with slightly rounded top. Has 1 1/2" wide slightly squared flat brim. 3/8" wide hat band of self ties in a small bow. Unlined with red grosgrain ribbon inner headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305418/
Hat
Suit hat of white felt. Round crown with 2-3/4" wide brim curved upward on left side and downward on right side. One inch wide black grosgrain ribbon hat band that ties in a bow on right side. Lined in white netting with white grosgrain inner headband. Inside crown stamped: "Feutre / Fl├ęchet" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305389/
Hat
Cocktail hat of black silk organza. Loosely draped bias from center front over rounded pillbox crown. Ends cross over and attach in back. Large black silk rose at center front. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305342/
Hat
Hat of black silk organza. Overall effect is turban-like. Hat is formed with bias organza draped over calotte cap. Fabric drapes across back and is turned under at center back. 1-1/4" wide satin bow 2" above lower edge at center front. Lined with netting and has black grosgrain ribbon inner headband with comb at front for securing hat to wearer's head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305416/
Hat
Hat of black silk organza. Shallow crown with 5" wide, down-turned brim. Brim covered with large organza overlapping petals. Lined in net with black grosgrain inner headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305332/
Hat
Cocktail hat of bias cut white draped wool. Front resembles a turban and is formed by four horizontal turned under pleats with 1-1/2" band. Sides and back resemble a beret, with the back folded up and trimmed with a tie bow of self at the center. Partly lined with reinforcing at front to support pleating. Ivory grosgrain ribbon inner headband and comb at front for securing hat to wearer's head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305404/
Pillbox Hat
Brown velvet pillbox cocktail hat. The low, circular crown of the hat is slightly domed. At front of hat is pinned a large 3-dimensional pear-shaped openwork jeweled ornament of gold wire set with various colors and shapes of stones. Inside of hat lined in black cloth. Around inside lower edge of crown is brown grosgrain ribbon band. Sewn to inner band is a plastic comb to help secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner ribbon band: "Eisa". The jeweled ornament is attributed to Robert Goossens of Paris, who is known to have supplied Balenciaga. Donor notes of this hat: "...to wear with short black cocktail dresses." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30150/
Pillbox Hat
Hat of black silk tulle and satin in the form of a low pillbox of black silk tulle, tapering slightly to the shallow-domed crown. On the right side is a cascade of dyed green ostrich feathers. No designer's label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30179/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat. The short, flat-topped cylindrical crown of tan netting is completely covered with rows of artificial magenta pink silk flowers, which have yellow thread and green plush centers. Inside the lower edge of the crown is a dark green grosgrain ribbon band which has two sections of elastic cord sewn along the sides to form loops to help secure the hat to wearer's head. Label sewn into inner ribbon band: "Eisa" Donor stated that this hat was "...to wear with a black day outfit." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30148/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black silk faille. The cylindrical crown is flat at top, and has one large ruby red silk rose at center front of the side. Lined in black satin, with a single comb inside to secure hat to wearer's head. No label in hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305384/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat covered in sapphire blue silk. Large sapphire blue silk rose accent with green leaves at right front. Lined in navy blue silk with navy grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Comb for securing hat to wearer's head at inside front. Designer's label on inside headband at back: "Eisa" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305424/
Toque
Toque of black satin. Pillbox-like hat has cylindrical crown, slightly domed, and is completely covered in black satin. At front, near base of crown, is a black satin bow from which rises a spray of black feathers. Interior of crown fully lined in black satin, with a black grosgrain ribbon band at base of crown. Sewn to the inner ribbon band is a plastic comb to secure the hat to the head of the wearer. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30134/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox style hat covered in navy feathers with white tips over a crown of navy felt. Inner headband of blue grosgrain ribbon. Maker's label on inside headband: "Frank M. Benson" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286827/
Hat
Sailor hat of natural straw cloth with wide red velvet band and bow under brim formed as part of hatband. Small brim also has narrow band of red velvet around outside edge on top. Size label: "22 1/2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277120/
Kipper Tie
Wide kipper tie of large stylized paisley designs in yellows and gold on a blue field. Blue is somewhat faded from the original shade. The tie has a tag on reverse marked "Brent" and with the logo for Montgomery Ward. The creation of the kipper tie, a form of extra-wide necktie known for bright colors and patterns, is credited to British designer Michael Fish. He brought out the earliest ones in the 1960's. This example was a gift to the donor by his maternal grandmother, Mary Kathleen King Miller (1898-1969). digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30325/
Hat
Hat of yellow straw. The cylindrical crown is flattened at top and has a "ridge" of straw running from front to back. Around the base of the crown is a wide band of pleated yellow organza. The wide, somewhat floppy brim extends out and curves upwards. Unlined, with an inner yellow grosgrain ribbon hatband. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Shari / Brett / originals" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276988/
Hat
Pillbox style hat of tan fur felt. High crown with 2 small black buttons pinching the fabric throughout. Eight small black buttons form a V with black and red satin tubing as trim on edge. Inner headband of black grosgrain ribbon. Maker's label on inside headband: "Helen Brounet / California" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286856/
Dress
Dress of bright lime green wool. Knee-lenght and sleeveless, with a high neckline ornamented with 6 rows of topstitching. Empire waisted, with the lower portion of dress split into four long panels, scalloped to form petals with quilted, topstitched edges. Center back zipper with two hook & eyes. Upper portion of dress lined in lime colored acetate. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York" Retailer's label beneath designer's label: "Marie Leavell" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286835/
Dress
Dress of bright red wool. Sleeveless; jewel neckline; knee length. Empire waist with inserted panel, quilted and top-stitched. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Kick pleat opening at center front seam. Lined in bright orange silk. Designer's label at inside, back neckline: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286919/
Ensemble - Bodystocking, Mini-Skirt and Belt
Ensemble consisting of three pieces. Full-length bodystocking is of heavy ivory wool knit, in a ribbed pattern running vertically throughout body and legs, and horizontally around arms. The garment has a turtle-neck and wide flaring cuffs at legs. Center back zipper opening from top of turtle-neck to mid-back. The black double knit wool micro-mini-skirt has four over-sized belt loops with pointed ends, and center back zipper closure. The ensemble includes a wide black patent-leather belt which secures with concealed snaps. Bodystocking has two labels. Designer's label inside at back near zipper: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York"; Material/size label on opposite side: "100% / Wool / L" The skirt has no labels. The belt is stamped on reverse: "12 1851" From the Fall 1969/1970 season. Records indicate that the ensemble was originally offered in the Maisonette Room of Neiman-Marcus. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30084/
Mini Dress
Mini dress of bright red wool jersey knit. The tubular mini dress has a rounded neckline and short sleeves. Black, shiny vinyl trim at neckline, sleeve hem, lower hem, and in the form of six Pierre Cardin bullseye trademarks arranged in a triangle from natural waist to lower hem. At center back are hook and eye and zipper closure. Dress is unlined. Designer's label: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York" Care label: "The vinyl trim / on this garment / has been specially treated / to make dry cleaning possible". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87026/
Hat
Hat of red straw. High, rounded crown somewhat like a cloche, surmounted by a ball of same red straw. Roughly oval brim, turning up towards edge, higher in front than back. Brim and base of crown edged with thin band of red grosgrain(?) ribbon. Unlined. Inner hatband of red grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label inside at inner hatband: "Oleg Cassini" Union Label inside. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277097/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox style hat of red straw cloth with small narrow brim. Wide, red grosgrain ribbon around crown topped with red vinyl ribbon and bow with top stitching. Inside crown lined in net. Manufacturer's label on inside hatband: "Ceder Crest / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277167/
Hat
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286794/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black stiffened net and black cloth overlay. The cylindrical crown tapers to the flattened top, and is made of black cloth with applied patches of black grosgrain ribbon. The whole is overlaid with a stiff black cage netting veil, with a black grosgrain ribbon bow at back of crown. The crown is lined on inside with red lace, and edged with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Attached to inner band are two small plastic combs to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside crown: "Designed by Michael Roy New York"; Retailer's label inside crown above designer's: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39248/
Cocktail Suit
Cocktail suit of black silk satin consisting of: A) Waist-length jacket formed of vertically arranged heat-set pleats with five horizontal bands applied across the pleats. There is a panel of ivory/off-white silk extending from the neck of the jacket, forming the collar of the jacket and simulating the effect of a blouse being worn under the jacket. The long sleeves are also pleated, with single band near the base of the sleeves, from which extend ivory/off-white silk mock cuffs. Center front opening with three applied black bows on the lower three horizontal bands. The opening is secured with three hook-and-loop closures hidden by the bows. Lined in black silk. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Chanel" Style number tag beneath designer's label: "10967" B) Matching mid-length skirt of similarly pleated black silk, with a plain waistband and a single horizontal black silk band 2" below the waistband. Three hook-and-loops in the waistband, and four snaps along closure at left hip. Skirt has a single panel of organza lining in back, the rest of the skirt being unlined to allow more movement of the fabric. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283774/
Skirt Suit
Suit of cream/blue/pink wool boucle. A) Waist-length jacket with round neckline and no collar, two-piece set-in long sleeves, four patch pockets on front, and center-front opening with 5 circular sculptural lion-head gold-tone metal buttons. Matching non-functional buttons sewn on each pocket and on cuffs. Neckline, opening, cuffs, and top edges of pockets with rolled(?) edging. Fully lined in pink silk. Inside bottom hemline weighted with gold chain. No labels. B) Skirt of same material. Below-knee-length. Slim, almost straight, flaring slightly to hem. Narrow waistband with two hook-and-eye closures, just above zipper closure. Lined in pink silk. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283772/
Hat
Beret style hat of black velvet with red grosgrain trim around half of hat. Black velvet "arrow tip" on crown. Unlined with inner headband of red grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label on inside headband: "Design by / d. charles" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283705/
Hat
Hat of black felt wool felt. Possibly for riding, the hat has a cylindrical crown 2" high, slightly domed at top. Encircling the base of the crown is a narrow band of black suede, tied at side. The narrow brim is of the same black felt. material. From sides and back of hat hang a panel of black jersey to protect the wearer's neck from sun. The panel is cut to create extending ties at sides, which secure under wearer's chin. Unlined, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Designer's label sewn to back headband: "Clover Lane" Stamped inside front of crown: "[coat of arms] / Glenover / Faurn(?) To(?) / Felt / (illegible) / New York / 100% Wool" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283701/
Hat
Toque style hat of faux black and gray snake skin. Brim of self folds up covering lower part of hat which is made of black velvet. Lined in red fabric. Designer's label: "Wally Colia / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286925/
Dress
Dress of turquoise colored sateen cotton. Sleeveless with square yoked bodice. Lines of horizontal top stitching over body of dress. Two front patch pockets. Center front decorative short, white, plastic zipper. Back zipper closure with hook & eye. Knee length, but hem has been removed. Designer's label at inside back zipper: "Courr├Ęges / Paris / made in france" Style number stamped on designer's label:"0078019" Care instruction/fabric content tag attached to bottom of designer's label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283747/
Pantsuit
Pantsuit of orange and ivory polyester double knit. a) Blouse has Peter Pan collar and full yoke of ivory polyester. Orange knit fitted bodice has cap sleeves. Flares slightly below waist. Self fabric belt buckles around hips. Zipper CB. Designer label removed. b) Orange hip-hugger pants are straight legged, stopping above ankles. Overlapping hook and eye closure. Zipper CF. Entire suit is lined in white polysatin. Designer's label at inside center back: "Courreges / Paris" Label below designer's label: "Made in France 0" Retailer's label: "Made in France / Exclusively for / Bonwit Teller" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286883/
Skirt
White leather mini-skirt with 4 applied black leather bands running horizontally around skirt. White leather suspenders attached at back, cross at back, and run over shoulders to fasten at circular white leather-covered buttons on waistband in front. Fully lined in white nylon. Shirt does not fit tight at waist. Pictured with black knit turtle-neck top, long-sleeves. Designer's label: "Courreges / Exclusively Designed in / Leather and Fabric for / Samuel Robert" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286823/
Evening Pumps
Pair of reddish-pink or coral silk satin evening pumps. Square toe shoes which have a large open area on the vamp which is backed by clear plastic and edged by braid. The plastic is overlaid with a metal net or chain mail with rhinestones at the intersections. 2 1/4" square heel covered with same material. Lined in off-white/gray leather. Stamped inside each shoe: "Made in Italy / Espressly / For / Lou Lattimore" (Espressly rather than Expressly); and "Creation Mancini / Paris / Waltea made in Italy" Stamped on sole of each shoe: "8" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277042/
Dress
Maxi paper bridesmaid dress of Reemay spun polyester "paper". The long dress is printed with a pattern of impressionistic flowers in greens, pink, blues and purples on a yellow ground. It has a high, rounded neckline with no collar, and opens with a zipper at center back from collar to just above waist. The long, fitted sleeves have a thin band at cuff which extends to be tied into a bow. Empire waistline, from which extend box pleats. The dress appears to have a full, floor-length skirt, but the skirt is actually divided, forming pant legs. No designer labels in garment, but original tag is preserved with it: Obverse: "'Wear-a-while'* / Fashions / with / Reemay [trademark symbol] / Du Pont's Fabulous / New 100% Spun Bonded Polyester / DuPont Reemay brings an entirely new quality to 'conven- / ience fashions'. It has an unusual surface appearance, it / is strong and it is colorfast. Garments of Reemay may be / washed a few times and need no ironing if you use / normal wash-and-wear procedures / DHJ Industries Inc. / [trademark symbol] Registered Du Pont Trademark / * Trademark of / DHJ Industries, Inc." Reverse: "Du Pont / Reemay [trademark symbol] / 100% Spunbonded polyester / flame-retandant finish / comfortable -- because it 'breathes' / retains its body and shape -- long wearing / dries quickly -- stays smooth - needs no ironing / it's strong - won't fray, unravel, split, tear / swirl pattern construction gives it a unique / appearance / to shorten: just cut with scissors ... garment won't unravel! / Reemay [trademark symbol] / is processed, furnished and dis- / tributed by DHJ Industries Inc. / 16 E. 34th St., N.Y., N.Y." The Texas Fashion Collection holds two identical examples of this dress, from the same donor. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30330/
Turban
Turban of light beige fine net with tiny beads(?) worked into the mesh. The hat is layered, and slightly pleated along the length. At back is a bow of same material, and at front is an ornate rhinestone set brooch of light green and brown stones forming a starburst design. Inner off-white grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label inside: "Lilly Dache Paris 78 East 56th St. New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286818/