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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Decade: 1950-1959
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Hat

Hat

Date: 1955/1965
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Hat created with a green and white silk scarf printed with a plaid pattern. The framework is a domed crown, higher at front than back, over which the silk scarf is fastened, pulled to back forming knotted ornament with trailing end. Lined in white mesh tulle, through which the under-structure can be seen. Inner pale green and white grosgrain ribbon hatband, with translucent brown plastic comb at inside front to secure to wearer's head. No designer's label.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Mushroom Hat

Mushroom Hat

Date: 1956
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Mushroom hat of red/orange baku straw. Uniquely cut crown is square with points at front and back. Four side panels are formed off of sides of square crown. Lined in white gauze material with red/orange grosgrain ribbon inner headband.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Mushroom Hat

Mushroom Hat

Date: 1956
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Cocktail mushroom hat of black silk gazar. Over-sized, with flat top and slightly downward turned 6" brim. Pillbox inner crown with black grosgrain inner headband.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Picture Hat

Picture Hat

Date: 1955/1965
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Picture hat of light beige finely woven straw. The domed crown is encircled at base by a rolled tube of the same straw, into which at front is twined the stem of a beige silk satin rose. The wide, slightly floppy brim is strengthened at brim by rolling up and over. The hat is unlined, with inner beige grosgrain ribbon hatband, and two small elastic cords at sides to help secure combs/pins to help hold hat to wearer's head. No labels.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pillbox Hat

Pillbox Hat

Date: 1950/1959
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Pillbox hat of black velvet. The low, cylindrical, slightly domed hat is completely covered in black velvet. Affixed to the center front of the hat is a roughly fan-shaped aigrette of simulated gems and metallic braid with a surmounting spray of white feathers. The crown is lined in black fabric, and has a black grosgrain ribbon running along the inside bottom edge. Sewn to the inner ribbon is a plastic comb to secure the hat to the wearer's head. No labels. The aigrette is attributed to Robert Goossens, of Paris, who is known to have supplied to Balenciaga.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pillbox Hat

Pillbox Hat

Date: 1955/1965
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Pillbox style hat of mustard yellow dyed Persian lamb (aka astrakhan). The short, cylindrical crown has a flat, inset top of brown velvet, and slightly bowed sides of yellow curly Persian lamb. The hat is lined in a bronze silk(?), and has inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband and a brown elastic cord to help secure it to wearer's head. No labels.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1954~
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Suit of brown and black wool tweed consisting of jacket, skirt, and vest. a) Jacket: princess line jacket of black and brown wool tweed with ivory slubs running through fabric; V-neckline with narrow notched collar and lapels; full-length sleeves are cut with the jacket body and have two triangular shaped gussets under the arm; sleeves are rolled up to form 1-1/2 cuffs; button front closure; buttons of black crocheted cord surrounding a round faceted black gem. b) Skirt of self fabric with self buttons down center-front; mid-length. c) Vest of self fabric with fabric covered buttons down center-front; fitted; approximately 1" wide shoulder straps.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1954~
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Light and charcoal gray two-piece daytime skirt suit with leather belt. Fitted jacket of light gray heavy weight wool, having a V-neckline with moderate shawl collar. 3/4 length sleeves are cut in one with jacket body and supplemented by one triangular shaped gusset under the arm. Lapped centerfront opening with two large, round, gray plastic buttons and bound buttonholes supplemented by single hook&eye at waist seam. One pair of faux pocket flaps at bust level. Leather belt. Plain slim skirt of dark charcoal gray wool, just below knee-length.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1957
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Charcoal gray wool two-piece suit. (a) Jacket: Fitted jacket of gray diamond twill wool; V-neckline with notched collar and peaked lapels; full-length, two piece, set in sleeves; lapped center front opening with two round, black, plastic buttons and bound buttonholes with snaps between buttons; fronts have shoulder and waist darts; two pairs of faux pocket flaps with buttons on fronts at bust and hip; back has low-slung, self fabric belt buttoned on above two faux vents at hem; fully lined in gray silk. (b) Skirt: Matching princess line, knee length skirt with narrow rolled waistband; straight hip yoke all around; inverted box pleat falls from yoke at center back; offset left side back zipper closure supplemented by one hook&eye closure on waistband; hem is faced with gray silk; fully lined in gray silk.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1950
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Two-piece gray faille moire wool and nylon suit. Jacket is long, with wide notched collar, is double breasted, has bound button holes, and buttons below waist. It has a sculptural double-breasted front panel, that maintains a vertical linear center front, rounded shape visually flanks stomach area. The skirt is straight; slightly below knee length.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Child's Sundress

Child's Sundress

Date: 1956
Creator: Ballew, Joan & Skillman, Hope
Description: Child's sundress of horizontally striped blue, brown, and white cotton delusted satin. Rounded neckline, higher in front than back; sleeveless. Neckline and armholes piped in matching blue fabric. Left side closure with 5 buttons. Full skirt, gathered at waistline with blue piping. Tie belt of same fabric attached at sides and ties in back. Upper bodice lined of cream colored muslin. Maker's label at inside back neck: "Kate / Greenaway / Frock" Paper size tag behind maker's tag. Original Hope Skillman paper tag attached, with hand-written note identifying designer Joan Ballew.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1955
Creator: Balmain, Pierre
Description: Dress of black wool with black leather trim. The street-length dress has a standup collar trimmed in snaps. Front opening is leather trimmed and has 5 self-covered snaps. Detachable front skirt panel is edged along top with black leather trim and secured with 5 self-covered snaps. Bracelet length sleeves trimmed with snaps at cuff. Back zipper. Fully lined in black satin. Handwritten label on inside back seam: "Pierre Balmain Fall 1955"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Dress

Cocktail Dress

Date: 1955
Creator: Bayh, Frederick Gibson
Description: Cocktail dress of large plaid orange, green, purple, and red raw and china silk. The dress is sleeveless, ankle-length, with red/orange raw silk halter-top bodice, "shawl" of same which is attached at mid-back and drapes over shoulders and across front. Lined in pale green. Skirt of dress is of silk, with large, plaid squares of reds, oranges, greens, and purples. Attached cummerbund style belt which buttons in back with 5 self-covered buttons and loops. Center back zipper Lined in light gold organza. Combined designer's/retailer's label at left side seam of lining near hem: "Gump's / San Francisco / Gibson Bayh / Original" Accompanying petticoat formed of three full-length layers of red, purple, and green silk. Each layer with hem band of grosgrain ribbon in a different color, and each with deep net ruffle at hem, also edged with grosgrain ribbon. Center back zipper with two hook & eyes on 1" waistband. Combined designer's/retailer's label at center back waistband: "Gump's / San Francisco / Gibson Bayh / Original"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte

Calotte

Date: 1955~
Creator: Belasco, Martin
Description: Calotte of green velvet and feathers. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the shaped cap has a stiff woven tan straw under-structure, and is covered with green velvet, over which is layered turquoise and teal feathers, and clusters of green velvet buds/berries and leaves. The hat is unlined, allowing the under-structure to be seen, and has a green grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. At sides are two small combs to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Martin Belasco / New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte Hat

Calotte Hat

Date: 1955~
Creator: Belasco, Martin
Description: Calotte of dark brown silk faille. Three touching bows of same around sides and front of crown with V point in back. Lined in net with brown grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Designer's label: "Martin Belasco / New York" Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hatlet

Hatlet

Date: 1955~
Creator: Belasco, Martin
Description: Hatlet of black velvet. The headpiece is formed as a stiffened black velvet band which has a large black velvet bow at each end. Designer's label: "Martin Belasco" Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1955/1959
Creator: Beresford
Description: Hat of black and white neora synthetic straw. Styled as a modified breton hat, the high domed crown is of woven black synthetic straw with white woven synthetic straw accents. The wide, matching brim is set off-center to the crown, wider at front than back, and is rolled up, forming a deep trough around the crown. At the front of the hat, affixed to the visible upturned underside of the brim is a large black plastic button with a black silk tassel extending from the center. The hat is lined in black mesh, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband around the inside base of the crown. Manufacturer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Beresford". United Hatters Cap and Millinery Workers International Union sewn to inner hatband, with number "798738". Accompanied by a single short hatpin with simulated black pearl head.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte Hat

Calotte Hat

Date: 1955~
Creator: Betmar
Description: Calotte style hat of black velvet. Small, quilted brim folds up in front and back. One, long tie string of same drapes across front brim and down sides. Black grosgrain ribbon inside hatband. Lined in black fabric. Manufacturer's label on inside hatband: "Betmar / Adj." Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Lord & Taylor / young new yorkers' / hat shop / Fifth Avenue"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1955/1959
Creator: Betmar
Description: Hat of black velvet. Soft cylindrical crown has a flattened top, and is encircled at base by a band of black grosgrain ribbon, tied into a bow at side and with trailing ends. Almost circular brim is split at right side, curves down somewhat, and is enhanced by concentric rows of top-stiching. The underside of the brim is lined in white. Designer's label: "Betmar"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1955~
Creator: Cahn, Bernie A
Description: Hat of muted violet straw. Styled somewhat as a sailor hat, the 2 1/2" conical crown is flattened at top, and has slightly sloping sides. Encircling the base of the crown is a 3/4" wide hatband of twisted muted cerise pink and purple velvet ribbons. At front of crown is a cluster of four velvet roses, 2 violet, 2 cerise with green leaves. Mounted above the roses is a violet velvet wrapped stand-up ornament with small bow at top, slightly to left of center front crown. The 4" wide flat brim has a narrow magenta velvet rolled band on underside of the outer edge. The hat is unlined, with an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label: "3410 Oak Lawn / Bernie A. Cahn / Dallas, Tex"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hatlet

Hatlet

Date: 1955~
Creator: Caprice
Description: Hatlet of navy blue faille(?). The open-crown hatlet is formed of a circle of overlapping bows/gathers of fabric, overlaid with a fine mesh veil of navy blue. The hat is lined in a darker blue fabric, which just shows along some edges. Designer's label: "Caprice / New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte

Calotte

Date: 1955
Creator: Carnegie, Hattie
Description: Hat of pale purple or violet felt/velor. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat has a domed pale purple felt crown "stacked" on another domed form of the same felt. The lower form has a horizontal "tuck" near the base, enhancing the impression of the hat being stacked felt domes. On right side of the crown near base is an applied bow of the same felt. The hat is unlined, with an inner dark blue grosgrain ribbon hatband. Stamped inside the crown: "Premier / Finest Quality / Imported / Velour" Joint Designer's and Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Original / Expressly for / Neiman-Marcus". Retains original Neiman-Marcus paper tag. Obverse: "Neiman-Marcus / B830 / x8SINZ / 7529x / 2995"; Reverse: "15 00" With matching hatpin, the head covered with a small pad of the same felt as the hat.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte

Calotte

Date: 1955
Creator: Carnegie, Hattie
Description: Hat of green felt. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat has a domed green felt crown, and a brim that folds up around the crown, extending almost as high as the crown in front. At the base of the crown, within the area of the brim, is a gather of brown veiling/netting that runs about 3/4 of the circumference of the crown. The hat is unlined, with an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband at the inside base of the crown. A stitched mark on the hatband indicates the front of the hat. Designer's / Retailer's combined label: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Original / Expressly for / Neiman-Marcus" Stamped inside crown: "Made in Italy"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte

Calotte

Date: 1955
Creator: Carnegie, Hattie
Description: Hat of beige felt/velor. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat has a domed beige felt crown "stacked" on another domed form of the same felt. The outer crown is "cut open" and "peeled back", to reveal the crown below. The lower edge of the crown is rolled up and in to create the appearance of a narrow rolled brim. The hat is unlined, with an inner dark beige grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Casual" Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus" Supplier's mark stamped inside crown: "Riviera / Finest Quality / Velour / Made in Italy"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design