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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Decade: 1950-1959
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Coat Dress

Coat Dress

Date: 1952
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Coat dress of brown silk faille in "Ottoman" style. Knee or street length, with turndown collar and slight V neckline. Darts at bust for fit. Four button closures at center front with bound buttonholes, two above and two below waist/belt. Hook and eyes at waistline. Long sleeves with rolled cuffs and underarm gussets. In-seam pockets at sides. Flared skirt, pleated in back. Simulated "shirtwaist" decoration at front of skirt. Unlined. Designer's label at inside back collar: "Made in / France"; "Autumne-Hiver 1952 / Christian Dior / Paris"; stamped: "2????" [mostly illegible], on label With matching belt of brown suede. Self-covered buckle of narrow, vertical rectangles secures with hook and bar closure; 1-1/4" wide.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Dress

Cocktail Dress

Date: 1956
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Cocktail dress of yellow lace and organza. The strapless, knee-length dress is of yellow inlay Spanish lace, with a slim line skirt that gathers at empire waist. It has a center back zipper with hook & eye closure at top. The bodice has a built-in corset-like support of boning and white net with white grosgrain ribbon waist band, the whole securing at back with 8 hook & eye closures. Lined in yellow silk. A removable, wide band of pleated yellow organza with tapered ends embellished with matching lace appliqués attaches with hooks and eyes at the waist of the dress, giving the effect of a narrow stole. The dress also has an accompanying very large matching yellow organza stole/wrap with matching lace appliqués at each end.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Dress

Cocktail Dress

Date: 1950
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Cocktail dress of dark navy blue silk satin. Strapless with fitted bodice. Open pleats over bust with mock bow and attached 14'' wide stole lined with silk organza which drapes over right shoulder and down back. Straight skirt with small inverted pleats at each hip bone, 23 1/2'' long from waist. Center back 24'' zipper closing with hook and eye at top and waist line. French netting, boned bustier with black grosgrain ribbon and hook & eye closure on inside. Skirt is lined to hip front and back with navy taffeta. Designer's label at center front bottom of bustier: "Christian Dior Original / Made In U.S.A. / Christian Dior - New York, Inc. / Trademark" Retailer's label to left of designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Ensemble - Dress and Jacket

Cocktail Ensemble - Dress and Jacket

Date: 1952
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Cocktail ensemble of silver (pale lavender?) heavy faille moire consisting of: A) Cocktail dress. 3/4 length. Sleeveless with thin straps. Shallow V-neck. Natural waist with a bias cut, 1-1/4" set-in waistband between skirt and bodice trimmed with a center, non-functioning gray plastic button. Fitted bust with gores at bust and under-arm. Inverted pleats at front and back center. Center back zipper closure with hook & eye closure at base of bodice. Cream satin lining in bust which descends to become sheath inside skirt. Skirt lined with net. Designer's label at inside center bust: "Made in France / Autumne-Hiver 1952 / Christian Dior / Paris" Stamped "20445" on label. Handwritten label behind designer's label: "250516" B) Matching bolero jacket. Cropped to waist, long sleeves. No collar. Slight V at top of neckline, with deeper "inset" V at bottom. Center front opening with 3 circular gray buttons at base of jacket. Lined in cream silk matching lining of dress. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Made in France / Autumne-Hiver 1952 / Christian Dior / Paris" Stamped "20446" on label. Handwritten label behind designer's label: "250517"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Day Dress

Day Dress

Date: 1953
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Day dress of red ribbed wool. Squared neckline; 3/4 length sleeves. Set-in waistline with attached 1-1/2" wraparound belt that closes in back with 2 hook & eyes and a snap. Below knee length. Center front opening with 7 hook & eyes on waistband and 7 red, circular, plastic buttons and bound buttonholes below waistband. Lined in red silk; bodice lining is sleeveless with center front zipper closure. Designer's label at right seam of bodice lining: "Automne-Hiver 1953 / Christian Dior / Paris / Made in France" and stamped on designer's label: "36416" Style number label under designer's label, illegible: "--6--4"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Daytime Ensemble - Dress and Jacket

Daytime Ensemble - Dress and Jacket

Date: 1950~
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Daytime ensemble of brown silk consisting of: A) Dress. Below-knee length, the dress has princess seaming to create fitted bodice, with wide V-neckline, 3/4" shoulder straps and straight skirt. 1" belt of self fabric from front darts to center back. Center back zipper. Unlined. Designer's label: "Christian Dior Original / Made in U.S.A. / Christian Dior - New York Inc." Retailer's label: "Harzfeld's / Kansas City" B) Jacket. Cropped jacket is pleated in front and back to a 3" waistband on which are three brass buttons 1/2" wide, and bound buttonholes. Long sleeves with 1-1/2" cuffs and one matching button per sleeve. Band collar has 10" tie ends and L-shaped lapel. Unlined.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1952
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Halter-style dress of black wool. V-neck, very low back, sleeveless, buttons up back. Straight skirt with drapery over hips and in front. Country of Origin Label: " Made in France " located on front neckline at right center. Designers Label at inside left on construction detail: " Made in France / Automne - Hiver 1952 / Christian Dior / Paris "
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1950~
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Dress of blue/gray silk satin or peau de soie, in shirtwaist style. Notched collar. Self covered button at center front with bound buttonhole. Waist seam; 3/4 length skirt with pleats on front and back of skirt. Half-length sleeves with self covered button, turn-back cuffs and bound buttonhole. Armhole princess seams front and back. Tucks on front and back bodice. Center back zipper. Lined in blue organdy with 1/2" blue grosgrain ribbon petersham. With belt of self-fabric forming a bow at center front with hook & eye and snap closure. Designer's label at center back seam below zipper: "Christian Dior - New York, Inc."
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1952
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Halter-style dress of black wool. Below-knee-length, with wide strap running from front up and behind neck. Straight neckline at front, with very low rounded edge at back - almost to mid-back. Center front with draped effect at waist, appearing "pulled" from hips, and with central front drape. 2 large pleats from waist at back. Center back opening with 5 self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes, supplemented with hook & eye at top and two hook & eyes at waist, and with zipper under edge of pleat at right of center back. Inner bodice of black net has boning and closes at center back with hook & eyes. Skirt lined in black silk. Country of Origin Label: "Made in France" located on front neckline at right center. Designer's Label at inside left on construction detail: "Made in France / Automne - Hiver 1952 / Christian Dior / Paris" and stamped "20951". Has handwritten style number tag beneath designer's label (mostly illegible): "50938" Retailer's label at back seam of skirt: "Neiman-Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1953
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Daytime dress of red silk faille. Street length. Short sleeves with turned-back edge. Shawl collar with button-down ends at front. Center front opening of 6 circular faceted red plastic buttons. Skirt gathers/pleats at waistline. Side slit pockets. Bodice partly lined in red silk. Red grosgrain ribbon petersham with hook & eye. Designer's label at right side seam: "Christian Dion Original / Made in U.S.A. / Christian Dior - New York Inc. / Trademark" Retailer's label at left side seam of skirt: "Neiman-Marcus". With accompanying belt of red leather covered with matching red silk faille. Elongated oval buckle covered with red silk faille except for tongue, which is enameled red. Designer's stamp on back: "Christian Dior / New York, Inc." and size, partly illegible. 10 or 12.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Blouse and Skirt

Ensemble - Blouse and Skirt

Date: 1956
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Ensemble of navy ribbed silk. A) Blouse in New Look style with V-shaped neckline and 1" collar. Elbow length sleeves with 1" folded cuffs. Center front opening with hook & eye closure. Patch pockets at side hips. Unlined; petersham of black grosgrain ribbon with hook & eye. Designer's label at left side seam: "Christian Dior Original / Made In U.S.A. / Christian Dior-New York Inc." B) Skirt of matching silk. Street length, A lined with pleats at 1" waistband. Center back zipper. Unlined.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Blouse, Skirt, Camisole

Ensemble - Blouse, Skirt, Camisole

Date: 1953
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Ensemble of navy-blue and slightly lighter silk organza composed of vertical hand-faggoted bands of alternating shades of blue giving light and dark effect. A) Blouse. Waist length with extending peplum to tuck under skirt. V-neckline, with collar of flat reveres with faggoted border. Short sleeves with turned-back cuffs. Center front opening with 4 self-covered buttons, a snap at the natural waistline, and 1 hook and loop and 5 hooks and eyes on peplum. The stripes and peplum are lined in pale gray organza, leaving the faggotted seams unlined. Underarm gussetts, with built-in pads. No labels. B) Skirt. Street length, full skirt matching bodice, with alternating vertical stripes, narrow navy blue waistband with center front opening with 5 self-covered buttons, and one hook and eye and two hook and loops on waistband, and a large snap which matches to bodice. Lined as blouse, with cream organza lining the stripes, but the faggotted bands left open, and with an inner skirt attached at waist of same cream silk organza, and with inner petticoat with flounce of cream tulle which has separate closure with 9 hook-and-eyes. No labels. Handwritten note on waistband "RH650 2P(?)" C) Inner shell camisole/lining for blouse of cream silk. ...
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Dress and Coat

Ensemble - Dress and Coat

Date: 1955
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: (At Left) Evening ensemble of brown silk shantung. The camisole is sleeveless, with a boat neckline. Center back closure with 10 small circular buttons covered with matching fabric. The blouse is lined in dark brown silk, and has an inner structure of net and metal boning. The understructure extends below the top to give structure to the skirt. The inner net and boning layer has a center back closure of 14 hook-and-eyes, matching along same line as outer closure. The skirt is of matching materials, A-line, below-the-knee length. It has a 2" waistband decorated with horizontal ruching. Center-back zipper closure with two hook-and-eyes in waistband. The skirt has an attached black rayon gorgette underslip, and an attached black nylon petticoat. The petticoat has a horsehair braid incorporated in the hem for stiffening. The matching swing coat is calf length, with a rolled collar and short sleeves. It is constructed with several layers of organza for structure and a tuck panel around the coat for decoration and flounce. Lined in brown silk. There are no labels in the garment. Photograph is from the exhibition "Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers", held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - ...
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Jacket and Dress

Ensemble - Jacket and Dress

Date: 1956
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Ensemble of printed silk. This cocktail or dinner ensemble in the "New Look" consists of a dress and bolero-style jacket of printed floral ikat silk with a black ground and floral design in gray, browns and dark brown/mauve shades. A) The dress is mid-calf-length, sleeveless, and with a boat neckline. Tailored to fit, with side bust and waist darts. Self fabric bow at top of waist gore which releases into a box pleat at the skirt. Slightly dropped waist. Under the sides of front box pleat edges are two knife pleats to create fullness, with darts for slimmer waist. On either side of front bock pleat is a small 1"intake pleat to balance fullness of skirt. Side seams have a lapping box pleat and an small triangular insert from front side seams. Back waist has 4 sets of box pleats, two on either side of center back zipper closure. The dress has built-in under-structure consisting of inner half-slip of off-white satin, and three layers of stiffened netting petticoats, all with horsehair braid at hem. B) The matching jacket is of the same cloth, cropped short in the bolero style. The center-front opening has no closures and is collarless. Raglan style ...
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Dress

Evening Dress

Date: 1958
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Evening dress of black and white satin. Long torso fitted top. Sleeveless, with wide boat neck of black satin. Zipper down the back. Full harem skirt of black, white, and grey striped and dotted silk with one large black satin bow at hip line and another bow of same at the hem of the short, "balloon" style skirt. Designer's label at left inside seam: "Boutique / Christian Dior / Paris" and "Made in France".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Dress

Evening Dress

Date: 1955
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Evening dress of black silk taffeta. Street length; short sleeves. Scooped neckline with attached, pleated capelet/stole which secures to dress with snaps and white, 4-1/2" wide grosgrain ribbon bow at left. Bow buttons onto capelet/stole with small button covered in matching black taffeta. Straight skirt from natural waistline. Center back zipper with hook & loop. Lined in black organdy(?) with black grosgrain petersham. Designer's label on center back seam: "Christian Dior - New York Inc." Retailer's label on center back seam: "Neiman-Marcus" With accompanying belt, covered in matching black taffeta. Square buckle; 32" x 1-1/4".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1950/1955
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Hat of shiny beige/light brown straw. Formed somewhat as a turban, the strands (approximately 50) of straw are wrapped and swirled around stiff net base creating a high, somewhat conical crown with an effect like a turban or a high-piled swirl of blond hair. Completely covered with beige veiling. Dark muted orange satin binding (1/2 inch deep) around edge of crown. Designer's label sewn to inner edge: "Christian Dior / chapeaux / Paris~New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1951
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Hat of silk faille. The body of the hat is made of woven straw, covered with beige/off-white silk faille. The shallow, domed crown is made in two parts - the upper shallow dome, and a collar into which the upper crown is inset. The upper edge of the collar is pipped in black. The shallow sloping brim is similarly constructed, with an inner band and then outer section with a black pipped edge between the sections. The crown is unlined, revealing the woven straw. The brim segments are lined in the same faille of the outside of the hat. Around the inside of the crown is an inner hatband of cream grosgrain ribbon, two which is attached a black elasticized cord to secure the hat to wearer's head. A small red/brown stitch on the inner hatband indicates the front of the hat. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Christian Dior / Paris / Made in / France"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pillbox Hat

Pillbox Hat

Date: 1950
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Pillbox hat of cream satin. The slightly domed crown of the hat is of cream satin, inset within a thick ring of the same fabric which forms the sides of the crown. Applied to the sides of the crown are black velvet ribbon semi-bows which form "T" shapes, set alternately upright and inverted. The hat is lined in golden tan fabric, and has a white grosgrain ribbon inner hatband around the inside base of the crown. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Christian Dior New York Inc.". Retailer's label sewn to inside lining of crown: "Neiman-Marcus / Made to Order". Accompanied by a single short hatpin with faux pearl head.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Suit - Jacket and Skirt

Suit - Jacket and Skirt

Date: 1953
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Day suit of royal blue linen consisting of: A) Blazer. Single breasted with 4 circular, blue plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Release tucks at bust line. Notched collar; hip length. Long, set-in sleeves with turned-back cuffs. Flap pockets at sides. Lined in matching blue silk jacquard with "Christian Dior" woven design. Designer's label at right side seam: "Christian Dior-New York / Original / *Trade Mark" Retailer's label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus" B) Skirt in straight style. Left side zipper with 3 hook & eyes. Center back 12" pleat. Unlined.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Toque

Toque

Date: 1955
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Toque of brown and green straw. The toque has a high, cylindrical crown with flattened top. The crown is made of bands of very fine green and more coarse brown/tan woven straw. The flattened top is of green, and along the sides are three narrow green bands, three narrow tan/brown bands, and the lowest, wide band of tan/brown. To one side of the toque is affixed a spray of artificial lily of the valley, tied with a red grosgrain ribbon bow. The hat is lined in blue/gray fabric, with an inner hatband of off-white grosgrain ribbon round the inside base of the crown. Designer's label sewn to inner headband: "Made in / England / Christian Dior / Chapeaux". Retailer's label sewn to inner headband: "Lazarus / French Room / Columbus, Ohio".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pillbox Hat

Pillbox Hat

Date: 1955~
Creator: Dolly Madison
Description: Pillbox hat of red felt. The cylindrical crown is flat at top, and encircled by matching material gathered and scrunched to create horizontal wrinkles around the crown. Set off to front right side is rosette/spiral of red feather. Lined in a silvery/gold and black fabric, and with a red grosgrain inner hatband. Maker's label inside: "Dolly Madison"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1950
Creator: Dooley, Sue
Description: Jockey cap of navy felt. Hemispherical crown formed of 6 triangular segments. At top of crown is a small green enameled "apple" shaped charm, one green enameled spherical bead, and one orange enameled bead. At front of cap is crescent-shaped bill with inner wired edge. Cap is unlined. No labels in cap.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hatlet

Hatlet

Date: 1955~
Creator: Dooley, Sue
Description: Hatlet of pale yellow/gold slub silk. Designed as a small turban, the domed crown is formed as a swirl of silk pleats with shallow, 1/2" upturned edge at base simulating a brim, with a narrow 1/4 inch wide "hat band" of same fabric. A small bow of the same fabric is at back of cap on lower edge. Lined in a matching fabric, with gold rickrack band along inside bottom edge. Two elastic cords at inner edge indicate hat had combs for attaching to wearer's head, now missing. Designer's label inside at back: "Sue Dooley / Dallas"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design