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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Country: United States
 Decade: 1960-1969
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Aviator's Cap Hat
Hat in the form of a white leather Aviator's Cap. The domed ovoid crown is made in six triangular sections, and has straps which extend down and buckle under the chin with two oval gilt metal links. The cap is lined with black satin, and has an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label: "Adolfo / New York Paris" Retailer's Label: "Amen Wardy / El Paso Texas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286812/
Aviator's Cap Hat
Hat in the form of a black leather Aviator's Cap. The domed ovoid crown is made in six triangular sections, and has straps which extend down and buckle under the chin with two oval gilt metal links. The cap is lined with black satin, and has an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label: "Adolfo / New York Paris" Retailer's Label: "Amen Wardy / El Paso Texas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286843/
Hat
Hat in modified cloche style of off-white wool felt with visor in front. Style could also be referred to helmet style. Small bow of self on small front visor. Back of brim folds up. Unlined with cream colored grosgrain headband. Designer's label on inside headband: "Adolfo / New York Paris" Stamp on inside crown: "TouTou / Body Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277140/
Picture Hat
Picture hat of navy blue horsehair material. The high, domed crown is encircled at the base by a wide band of navy blue grosgrain ribbon and has an over-sized dark blue silk flower with artificial stems and leaves set at front. The wide brim is plain, turned back on itself at the edge to form a wide band of double-thickness. When worn, the brim hangs down forming conical shape, but when laid down, brim flattens. Hat is unlined with an inner hatband of dark blue grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label sewn to inner band: "Adolfo / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283683/
Picture Hat
Large picture hat of navy blue straw. The high, domed crown is encircled at the base by a wide band of navy blue grosgrain ribbon, and has an oversized dark blue silk flower with artificial stems and leaves set at front. The wide brim is plain, turned back on itself at the edge to form a wide band of double-thickness. When worn, the brim hangs down forming conical shape, but when laid down, brim flattens. Hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of dark blue grosgrain ribbon around inside lower edge of crown. Designer's label sewn to inner band: "Adolfo / New York". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39236/
Hatlet
Hatlet of artificial flowers and net. The hatlet is composed of a radiating group of artificial rosebuds of pink and white with green stems and leaves. The sprays are attached to a black net circular veil. Designer's label: "By / Therese Ahrens" Retailer's label: "I. Magnin & Co." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276987/
Pumps
Pair of pumps of mottled light brown/tan reptile skin. The shoes are designed with a rounded toe and squared-off vamp/instep. The edge of the upper has a border of small holes backed with black leather. The thick, chunky heel is covered with a black reptile leather, and flares to the base. Designer's label stamped inside: "Andrew Geller" Retailer's label stamped inside: "Neiman-Marcus" Handwritten inside: "4 1/2 B / 628 380 / 461323G" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87007/
Pumps
Pumps of black velvet. The shoes are designed with gently pointed toe and plain uppers. A narrow band of low-pile area outlines the foot opening. The 3 1/8" high spike heel is covered with the same velvet as the upper. Designer's stamp inside: "Andrew Geller / Exquisite Footwear" Retailer's label inside: "Neiman-Marcus" Handwritten inside: "5 1/2 aa / 49199 / S9013a" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87020/
Pillbox Hat
Hat with pillbox style crown. Crown of green netting is covered with fuchsia and orange velvet flowers. Inner headband of green grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label: "John Andrew / San Francisco" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286798/
Dress
Dress of brown/beige coffee-colored wool. The short, A-line dress with shallow boat-neckline, short, cap-sleeves. Front and back of dress with diamond-shaped motif created by slot seams with cream background/under layer. Similar seaming across top of sleeves and joining diamond motifs around sides. Center back zipper with hook-and-eye at neckline. Lined in off-white silk(?). Designer's label: "Jean Marie Armand / Paris / Made in France" Retailer's label: "Made in France especially for / Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286912/
Ensemble
Bright red/orange wool dress and coat ensemble from 1st collection. a) Coat of bright red/orange wool. Long sleeves and collared neckline. Double breasted with large, covered snaps on inside as closure. Two pockets formed from panels on coat. Lined in red acetate. Designer's label at inside, back neckline: "Jean Marie Armand / Paris / Made in France" b) Dress . Bracelet length sleeves and jewel neckline. Knee length. Center front zipper. Hourglass shaped front panel forms pockets at left and right. Lined in red acetate. Designer's label at inside, back neckline: "Jean Marie Armand / Paris / Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286926/
Ensemble
Ensemble of oatmeal colored wool tweed: a) Jacket of beige and black wool tweed with V-neckline with standard notched collar and wide lapels; short, princess seams; 3/4 length, set in, two piece sleeves; double breasted opening with four round, plastic, beige buttons and two bound buttonholes supplemented by single large covered snap inside lap at waist; fully lined in beige silk. Label stitched inside back neck below collar. b) Dress of same; sleeveless; falling just below the knee; deep rounded neckline; empire waist seam; straight skirt has slight gathers in front; left side underarm zipper closure supplemented by single hook&eye closure; folded hem; armhole and neck facings; brassiere strap keepers snap inside shoulders; unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30050/
Ensemble - Coat, Tunic, and Pants
Ensemble consisting of: a) Coat of silver lame with jeweled buttons lined in same black wool jersey as dress. b) Tunic top of black wool jersey. Sleeveless with two side slit pockets. Closure at back with two snaps and self-covered buttons. Lined in black silk. c) Pants of heavy black wool jersey. Double side zippers. Designer Label: "EISA" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30141/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox style hat covered in navy feathers with white tips over a crown of navy felt. Inner headband of blue grosgrain ribbon. Maker's label on inside headband: "Frank M. Benson" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286827/
Hat
Sailor hat of natural straw cloth with wide red velvet band and bow under brim formed as part of hatband. Small brim also has narrow band of red velvet around outside edge on top. Size label: "22 1/2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277120/
Hat
Hat of black ostrich feathers. The hat, designed with a domed crown, is completely covered with curling black ostrich feathers, giving it the look of a wig. Lined in black satin, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband, and with two small combs to help secure the hat to the wearer's head. Designer's label: "Bonnette / Highland Park Village" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286813/
Kipper Tie
Wide kipper tie of large stylized paisley designs in yellows and gold on a blue field. Blue is somewhat faded from the original shade. The tie has a tag on reverse marked "Brent" and with the logo for Montgomery Ward. The creation of the kipper tie, a form of extra-wide necktie known for bright colors and patterns, is credited to British designer Michael Fish. He brought out the earliest ones in the 1960's. This example was a gift to the donor by his maternal grandmother, Mary Kathleen King Miller (1898-1969). digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30325/
Hat
Hat of yellow straw. The cylindrical crown is flattened at top and has a "ridge" of straw running from front to back. Around the base of the crown is a wide band of pleated yellow organza. The wide, somewhat floppy brim extends out and curves upwards. Unlined, with an inner yellow grosgrain ribbon hatband. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Shari / Brett / originals" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276988/
Hat
Pillbox style hat of tan fur felt. High crown with 2 small black buttons pinching the fabric throughout. Eight small black buttons form a V with black and red satin tubing as trim on edge. Inner headband of black grosgrain ribbon. Maker's label on inside headband: "Helen Brounet / California" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286856/
Dress
Dress of bright red wool. Sleeveless; jewel neckline; knee length. Empire waist with inserted panel, quilted and top-stitched. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Kick pleat opening at center front seam. Lined in bright orange silk. Designer's label at inside, back neckline: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286919/
Dress
Dress of bright lime green wool. Knee-lenght and sleeveless, with a high neckline ornamented with 6 rows of topstitching. Empire waisted, with the lower portion of dress split into four long panels, scalloped to form petals with quilted, topstitched edges. Center back zipper with two hook & eyes. Upper portion of dress lined in lime colored acetate. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York" Retailer's label beneath designer's label: "Marie Leavell" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286835/
Ensemble - Bodystocking, Mini-Skirt and Belt
Ensemble consisting of three pieces. Full-length bodystocking is of heavy ivory wool knit, in a ribbed pattern running vertically throughout body and legs, and horizontally around arms. The garment has a turtle-neck and wide flaring cuffs at legs. Center back zipper opening from top of turtle-neck to mid-back. The black double knit wool micro-mini-skirt has four over-sized belt loops with pointed ends, and center back zipper closure. The ensemble includes a wide black patent-leather belt which secures with concealed snaps. Bodystocking has two labels. Designer's label inside at back near zipper: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York"; Material/size label on opposite side: "100% / Wool / L" The skirt has no labels. The belt is stamped on reverse: "12 1851" From the Fall 1969/1970 season. Records indicate that the ensemble was originally offered in the Maisonette Room of Neiman-Marcus. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30084/
Hat
Hat of red straw. High, rounded crown somewhat like a cloche, surmounted by a ball of same red straw. Roughly oval brim, turning up towards edge, higher in front than back. Brim and base of crown edged with thin band of red grosgrain(?) ribbon. Unlined. Inner hatband of red grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label inside at inner hatband: "Oleg Cassini" Union Label inside. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277097/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox style hat of red straw cloth with small narrow brim. Wide, red grosgrain ribbon around crown topped with red vinyl ribbon and bow with top stitching. Inside crown lined in net. Manufacturer's label on inside hatband: "Ceder Crest / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277167/
Hat
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286794/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black stiffened net and black cloth overlay. The cylindrical crown tapers to the flattened top, and is made of black cloth with applied patches of black grosgrain ribbon. The whole is overlaid with a stiff black cage netting veil, with a black grosgrain ribbon bow at back of crown. The crown is lined on inside with red lace, and edged with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Attached to inner band are two small plastic combs to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside crown: "Designed by Michael Roy New York"; Retailer's label inside crown above designer's: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39248/
Hat
Hat of black felt wool felt. Possibly for riding, the hat has a cylindrical crown 2" high, slightly domed at top. Encircling the base of the crown is a narrow band of black suede, tied at side. The narrow brim is of the same black felt. material. From sides and back of hat hang a panel of black jersey to protect the wearer's neck from sun. The panel is cut to create extending ties at sides, which secure under wearer's chin. Unlined, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Designer's label sewn to back headband: "Clover Lane" Stamped inside front of crown: "[coat of arms] / Glenover / Faurn(?) To(?) / Felt / (illegible) / New York / 100% Wool" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283701/
Evening Pumps
Pair of reddish-pink or coral silk satin evening pumps. Square toe shoes which have a large open area on the vamp which is backed by clear plastic and edged by braid. The plastic is overlaid with a metal net or chain mail with rhinestones at the intersections. 2 1/4" square heel covered with same material. Lined in off-white/gray leather. Stamped inside each shoe: "Made in Italy / Espressly / For / Lou Lattimore" (Espressly rather than Expressly); and "Creation Mancini / Paris / Waltea made in Italy" Stamped on sole of each shoe: "8" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277042/
Dress
Maxi paper bridesmaid dress of Reemay spun polyester "paper". The long dress is printed with a pattern of impressionistic flowers in greens, pink, blues and purples on a yellow ground. It has a high, rounded neckline with no collar, and opens with a zipper at center back from collar to just above waist. The long, fitted sleeves have a thin band at cuff which extends to be tied into a bow. Empire waistline, from which extend box pleats. The dress appears to have a full, floor-length skirt, but the skirt is actually divided, forming pant legs. No designer labels in garment, but original tag is preserved with it: Obverse: "'Wear-a-while'* / Fashions / with / Reemay [trademark symbol] / Du Pont's Fabulous / New 100% Spun Bonded Polyester / DuPont Reemay brings an entirely new quality to 'conven- / ience fashions'. It has an unusual surface appearance, it / is strong and it is colorfast. Garments of Reemay may be / washed a few times and need no ironing if you use / normal wash-and-wear procedures / DHJ Industries Inc. / [trademark symbol] Registered Du Pont Trademark / * Trademark of / DHJ Industries, Inc." Reverse: "Du Pont / Reemay [trademark symbol] / 100% Spunbonded polyester / flame-retandant finish / comfortable -- because it 'breathes' / retains its body and shape -- long wearing / dries quickly -- stays smooth - needs no ironing / it's strong - won't fray, unravel, split, tear / swirl pattern construction gives it a unique / appearance / to shorten: just cut with scissors ... garment won't unravel! / Reemay [trademark symbol] / is processed, furnished and dis- / tributed by DHJ Industries Inc. / 16 E. 34th St., N.Y., N.Y." The Texas Fashion Collection holds two identical examples of this dress, from the same donor. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30330/
Turban
Turban of light beige fine net with tiny beads(?) worked into the mesh. The hat is layered, and slightly pleated along the length. At back is a bow of same material, and at front is an ornate rhinestone set brooch of light green and brown stones forming a starburst design. Inner off-white grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label inside: "Lilly Dache Paris 78 East 56th St. New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286818/
Hat
Hat of light blue ostrich feathers. Designed on a circular under band of light blue velvet-covered wire, the hat is formed of a radiating spray of dyed ostrich feathers, with light blue netting extending out as a veil, and with two light blue ribbon loops with attached simulated tortoise-shell hairpins to secure hat to wearer's head. Unlined. Designer's label: "Damozel / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286819/
Pumps
Pair of black suede pumps. The shoes are designed with rounded toes, ornamented with gold mesh at tips of toe. Thick heel, tapering slightly to base. Manufacturer's mark stamped inside: "Delman / New York / London / Paris" and "Delman" Retailer's label stamped inside: "Sakowitz / Houston" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114929/
Patchwork Dress
Dress made of multiple fabrics including velvet, cotton, and silk in red, green, brown, blue, and orange multi-colored floral and Indian prints, in a patchwork of vertical strips with metallic thread trim. Applied throughout are decorative metallic ovals. The dress is full length, with a flared skirt, long bell sleeves, and a low square neckline. Unlined. Zipper at center back extending from neckline to just below waist, with a single hook-and-loop at neckline. Label sewn to inside back to left of zipper: "Sant'Angelo". Worn by singer Lena Horne (1917-2010). digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30289/
Hat
Hat of plastic-coated paper. The hat is of novelty design, with a square crown of flame pink/orange with faint stripes/brick pattern, which is open along the vertical corners. The mostly-oval brim of the same material is set off-center, widest part from side to side, but with more brim at front than back. At front left, the brim extends and detaches from hat to hang down at side. At end of extension is cluster of petal forms made of the same material and a white version of same material. Around the base of the crown is a "hatband" formed of dense clusters of the same petals. The underside of the brim is of the flame pink/orange, while the inside of the crown is white. Around the inside base of the crown is a band of white grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label inside at base of crown: "Sue Dooley / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114844/
Hat
Slouch hat of plastic-coated paper. The high, cylindrical crown is of aqua blue, with "squashed" sides. At base of crown is think neon orange hatband tied with bow at right side near front. Medium-wide brim of pale green curves out and down, and is decorated with concentric bands of stitching. Edge and underside of brim faced with same blue as crown. At back of hat, under brim at edge, is a small bow of the orange neon material. Inside of crown is lined(?) with the pale green of the upper part of the brim. Around inside base of crown is band of white grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label at inside back of lower edge of crown: "Sue Dooley / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114846/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of tan fur. Low circular crown covered in light tan fur, likely mink. Lined in pink fabric with band of blue fabric inside lower edge, overlaid with gold rickrack band. On each side along inside lower edge is a small brown plastic comb secured by black elastic cord to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside at back: "Sue Dooley / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87082/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of draped chiffon burnout velvet. Cylindrical large pillbox hat with shaped lower rim. The crown is draped/pleated horizontally in a chiffon burnout velvet with printed abstract designs burnt orange, yellow, and blue. Lined in a brocaded blue and sparkly fabric. At lower inside edge is band of gold rickrack. Designer's label inside rim at back: "Sue Dooley / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87083/
Hat
Hat of light brown straw. Hat has a cylindrical crown with flattened top. Around the lower part of the crown is a wide light brown grosgrain ribbon with loop and trailing ribbons at side, secured with two wooden buttons. The wide brim turns down at front and up at back. Unlined, with inner hatband of pale grosgrain ribbon. Label inside: "Elizabeth" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276999/
Hat
Hat of beige fabric, with close lines of top-stitching. Styled as a modified, enlarged version of a pillbox. The crown is soft sided, somewhat cylindrical and flattened at top. At front right is a bow of same fabric, with crossing ends. The crown rests on a slightly "tighter" inner band, which shows at lower edge. The hat is lined in pink grosgrain fabric, and has an inner hatband of green grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label: "Emme Boutique" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286842/
Hat
Hat of black felt. The domed crown is encircled at base by a 1" wide ribon of the same felt, forming a bow at front with trailing end. The shaped brim is turned up at sides and back to a height of 3"; in front the turn-up angles downwards and becomes a short, flat section in front. The crown of the hat is lined in a black mesh, and has an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label: "Emme Inc. / New York" Retailer's label: "Amen Wardy / El Paso * Texas" Illegible mark of felt maker inside crown. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286922/
Shoes
Pair of shoes of navy blue leather. The shoes are designed with square toes and dark leather uppers. A wide rectangular panel of navy blue simulated reptile skin extends from the toe, up the vamp, below an oval cut-out in the vamp, and up the instep to create a tongue. The 2 1/4" high heel is covered with same blue leather, and tapers to base. Maker's label stamped inside: "Esprit" Stamped inside: "Leather upper & Sole / Other Mat'ls Man-Made" Handwritten inside: "5 M 0320109 / A AA 37122 5" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87002/
Picture Hat
Picture hat of natural straw. The domed crown is encircled at base by a wide band of cream grosgrain ribbon with bow at right side. Around the crown, but not on the bow, the ribbon is edged at top with black. The wide circular brim curves upwards from base of crown, then curves down to edge. Unlined. Inner cream grosgrain ribbon hatband. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Florence ... / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277083/
Hat
Hat of black felt. The low, domed crown is encircled by a band of black net veilling, gathered at front to form a pouf, and with a narrow band of black ribbons, tied at back with a bow. The narrow brim curves up slightly at back. The hat is unlined, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Brand(?) label: "Originals / Fifth Avenue / New York" Label of felt maker: "Bodies by / Lee" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305406/
Toque Hat
Toque hat made of brown and beige fur felt with bands of fabric sewn and blocked. Lower band and top of crown in brown with upper band in beige. One safety style pin with two circles of rhinestones and large rhinestone in center as trim. Designer's label sewn inside crown: "Mr. John Jr." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277007/
Evening Gown
Evening gown of white silk crepe. Full-length sleeveless dress with round neck and narrow straps and Empire waist. The bodice is heavily beaded with mirror beads and silver rhinestones. The skirt has vertical columns of beads and has heavy beading on hem. Zipper closure along center back. The dress is fully lined in cream fabric. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30180/
Cloche Hat
Cloche style hat of black shiny straw. Edge curls up and makes small brim on center back. Lined in black net with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Designer's label on inside headband: "Galanos" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305367/
Body Suit With Tunic
Ensemble consisting of two pieces. Base garment is a light green knitted silk jersey bodysuit with over-length sleeves and legs. Zipper closure from throat to lower back at center back, with one hook-and-eye closure at top of zipper. Over the bodysuit is a tunic/tabard formed of two long rectangular panels of black silk with white printed polka dots all over. There are thin "straps" simulated at shoulders where panels meet, and a slightly rounded neckline. The panels are sewn at left side for 17 cm. below arm and open the rest of the length. On right side are three snaps and one hook-and-eye closure. The left shoulder is sewn shut, while the right side opens with hook-and-eye closure. The panels are lined in shocking pink silk. Label in bodysuit: At inside left back, just beside zipper: "Rudi Gernreich". Labels in tunic/tabard: At back inside, just below neckline: "Neiman-Marcus / Trophy Room"; At front inside, just below neckline: "Rudi Gernreich" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30029/
Evening Ensemble - Jacket and Dress
Evening ensemble of heavy pink Alaskine silk/wool blend, consisting of a jacket and dress. The jacket is a cropped, bolero style, with rounded neckline and short sleeves. It has a center front opening with single hook-and-eye at throat. The sleeves, neckline, opening, and hem are edged in band of pink and crystal beads and rhinestones. Scattered over the surface of the jacket are clusters of pearl, crystal, and silvered beads. The matching dress is full-length, with an Empire waist. It is sleeveless, with very slight scoop at front neckline, and a deep rounded scoop to mid-back at back.The straps are heavily beaded with pink and crystal beads and rhinestones. The 4-gore A-line skirt gathers slightly into bodice. The dress has an inner pink nylon(?) sheath lining. The jacket labels are: Retailer's label: "R.S.V.P. / Neiman-Marcus" Designer's label, underneath retailer's label: "Gino Charles" Size label: "8" The dress labels are: Designer's label: "Gino Charles" Origin label: "Made in the British / Crown Colony of Hong Kong" Size label: "8" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402501/
Vest
Vest of blue, red and white suede. The blue body of the vest has star-shaped cut-outs, revealing the white lining. From the body of the vest hangs floor-length red fringe. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30329/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of white simulated alligator in free form with 3 bows of same. Hat and bows trimmed with white glass beads. Two brown combs attached to inside grosgrain hatband for securing hat to head. Navy veil interspersed with groups of 3 white glass beads matching those on hat. Designer's label: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago" Handwritten label attached to hatband: "82" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38100/
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