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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Country: United States
 Decade: 1950-1959
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Hat

Hat

Date: 1955~
Creator: Asbury Millinery Co.
Description: Hat of black straw. The hat is formed as a wide, shallow domed crown, overlaid with "fringe" sewn in a dense spiral from the top center rosette, creating tiers/layers. Brimless, the crown rests on the head, with black straw covered arched bands to help secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label inside: "Lee Bury / Hats / of Dallas"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1952
Creator: Asbury Millinery Co. (Dallas, Texas)
Description: Hat of multi-colored straw. Based on a beret, the hat consists of a crown of finely woven straw in bands of dark blue, red, white, and dark blue. The crown is formed as a flattened sphere, surmounted by a small sphere of dark blue velvet. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of dark blue/black grosgrain ribbon around the inside base of the crown. Brand label sewn to inner hatband: "Lee Bury / Hats".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pillbox Hat

Pillbox Hat

Date: 1955
Creator: Bailey, Jo
Description: Pillbox hat of beige and bronze velvet. The low, circular crown of bronze velvet has inter-twined bands of bronze and beige velvet around it in a draped or swagged style. At front is applied a small bow made of the two velvets. Inner hatband of beige grosgrain ribbon. Affixed to the ribbon, one at each side, is a small plastic comb to secure the hat to the wearer's hair. The hat is lined in green fabric. Glued into the crown lining is a homemade(?) hand embroidered label: "Jo Bailey Hats"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pillbox Hat

Pillbox Hat

Date: 1950/1969
Creator: Bailey, Jo
Description: Pillbox style hat of pink silk gabardine. Four horizontal pleats around front of brim form zigzag folds at sides. Slightly rounded top. Center back has hanging tab ending in tie bow of self. 2-1/4'' deep crown CF; 3 1/2'' deep CB. Lined in white silk with pink grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Two combs at sides for securing hat to wearer's head. Maker's label hand embroidered on inside crown: "Jo Bailey Hats"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pillbox Hat

Pillbox Hat

Date: 1955
Creator: Bailey, Jo
Description: Pillbox hat of striped fabric. The low-crowned cylindrical hat is covered in a gray fabric having red, green, black, white, and gold stripes reminiscent of a man's tie. Around the crown the fabric is pleated and draped, giving the effect of a low turban. Lined in a pink satin, with dusty rose pink grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Glued into the crown lining is a homemade(?) hand embroidered label: "Jo Bailey Hats"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte Hat

Calotte Hat

Date: 1956
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Calotte hat of brown velvet. One hatpin with black, avocado shaped head. Brim and top center seam meet to form V-shaped opening. Designer's label on inside hat band: "Balenciaga Hats . Paris" Retailer's label beneath designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble

Ensemble

Date: 1950
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Ensemble in black and oatmeal colored wool, consisting of: A) Jacket: Semi-fitted wool in abstracted herringbone weave with black and oatmeal yarns running double throughout; moderately rounded neckline with asymmetrical mandarin collar; full-length raglan sleeves with overarm seam and undersleeve; double breasted front opening with eight round, plastic, oatmeal colored buttons and four bound buttonholes supplemented by single hook & eye inside lap at waist; vertical welt pockets on front lined in black silk; fully lined in black silk. Designer's label at inside collar: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris" and "Made in France". Retailer's label at inside side seam: "Neiman-Marcus" B) Dress: Knee length dress; bodice of black wool gauze with jewel neckline; sleeveless; lapped centerfront opening with four round self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes supplemented by single snap and hook & eye; bodice gathers into seam at natural waistline; gathered hip yoke of same gauze; straight skirt of matching herringbone has three snaps at centerfront opening; folded hem; gauze is lined in black silk organdy; skirt is unlined.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1950
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Two-piece gray faille moire wool and nylon suit. Jacket is long, with wide notched collar, is double breasted, has bound button holes, and buttons below waist. It has a sculptural double-breasted front panel, that maintains a vertical linear center front, rounded shape visually flanks stomach area. The skirt is straight; slightly below knee length.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Child's Sundress

Child's Sundress

Date: 1956
Creator: Ballew, Joan & Skillman, Hope
Description: Child's sundress of horizontally striped blue, brown, and white cotton delusted satin. Rounded neckline, higher in front than back; sleeveless. Neckline and armholes piped in matching blue fabric. Left side closure with 5 buttons. Full skirt, gathered at waistline with blue piping. Tie belt of same fabric attached at sides and ties in back. Upper bodice lined of cream colored muslin. Maker's label at inside back neck: "Kate / Greenaway / Frock" Paper size tag behind maker's tag. Original Hope Skillman paper tag attached, with hand-written note identifying designer Joan Ballew.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Dress

Cocktail Dress

Date: 1955
Creator: Bayh, Frederick Gibson
Description: Cocktail dress of large plaid orange, green, purple, and red raw and china silk. The dress is sleeveless, ankle-length, with red/orange raw silk halter-top bodice, "shawl" of same which is attached at mid-back and drapes over shoulders and across front. Lined in pale green. Skirt of dress is of silk, with large, plaid squares of reds, oranges, greens, and purples. Attached cummerbund style belt which buttons in back with 5 self-covered buttons and loops. Center back zipper Lined in light gold organza. Combined designer's/retailer's label at left side seam of lining near hem: "Gump's / San Francisco / Gibson Bayh / Original" Accompanying petticoat formed of three full-length layers of red, purple, and green silk. Each layer with hem band of grosgrain ribbon in a different color, and each with deep net ruffle at hem, also edged with grosgrain ribbon. Center back zipper with two hook & eyes on 1" waistband. Combined designer's/retailer's label at center back waistband: "Gump's / San Francisco / Gibson Bayh / Original"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte

Calotte

Date: 1955~
Creator: Belasco, Martin
Description: Calotte of green velvet and feathers. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the shaped cap has a stiff woven tan straw under-structure, and is covered with green velvet, over which is layered turquoise and teal feathers, and clusters of green velvet buds/berries and leaves. The hat is unlined, allowing the under-structure to be seen, and has a green grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. At sides are two small combs to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Martin Belasco / New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte Hat

Calotte Hat

Date: 1955~
Creator: Belasco, Martin
Description: Calotte of dark brown silk faille. Three touching bows of same around sides and front of crown with V point in back. Lined in net with brown grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Designer's label: "Martin Belasco / New York" Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hatlet

Hatlet

Date: 1955~
Creator: Belasco, Martin
Description: Hatlet of black velvet. The headpiece is formed as a stiffened black velvet band which has a large black velvet bow at each end. Designer's label: "Martin Belasco" Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1955/1959
Creator: Beresford
Description: Hat of black and white neora synthetic straw. Styled as a modified breton hat, the high domed crown is of woven black synthetic straw with white woven synthetic straw accents. The wide, matching brim is set off-center to the crown, wider at front than back, and is rolled up, forming a deep trough around the crown. At the front of the hat, affixed to the visible upturned underside of the brim is a large black plastic button with a black silk tassel extending from the center. The hat is lined in black mesh, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband around the inside base of the crown. Manufacturer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Beresford". United Hatters Cap and Millinery Workers International Union sewn to inner hatband, with number "798738". Accompanied by a single short hatpin with simulated black pearl head.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte Hat

Calotte Hat

Date: 1955~
Creator: Betmar
Description: Calotte style hat of black velvet. Small, quilted brim folds up in front and back. One, long tie string of same drapes across front brim and down sides. Black grosgrain ribbon inside hatband. Lined in black fabric. Manufacturer's label on inside hatband: "Betmar / Adj." Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Lord & Taylor / young new yorkers' / hat shop / Fifth Avenue"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1955/1959
Creator: Betmar
Description: Hat of black velvet. Soft cylindrical crown has a flattened top, and is encircled at base by a band of black grosgrain ribbon, tied into a bow at side and with trailing ends. Almost circular brim is split at right side, curves down somewhat, and is enhanced by concentric rows of top-stiching. The underside of the brim is lined in white. Designer's label: "Betmar"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1955~
Creator: Cahn, Bernie A
Description: Hat of muted violet straw. Styled somewhat as a sailor hat, the 2 1/2" conical crown is flattened at top, and has slightly sloping sides. Encircling the base of the crown is a 3/4" wide hatband of twisted muted cerise pink and purple velvet ribbons. At front of crown is a cluster of four velvet roses, 2 violet, 2 cerise with green leaves. Mounted above the roses is a violet velvet wrapped stand-up ornament with small bow at top, slightly to left of center front crown. The 4" wide flat brim has a narrow magenta velvet rolled band on underside of the outer edge. The hat is unlined, with an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label: "3410 Oak Lawn / Bernie A. Cahn / Dallas, Tex"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hatlet

Hatlet

Date: 1955~
Creator: Caprice
Description: Hatlet of navy blue faille(?). The open-crown hatlet is formed of a circle of overlapping bows/gathers of fabric, overlaid with a fine mesh veil of navy blue. The hat is lined in a darker blue fabric, which just shows along some edges. Designer's label: "Caprice / New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte

Calotte

Date: 1955
Creator: Carnegie, Hattie
Description: Hat of pale purple or violet felt/velor. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat has a domed pale purple felt crown "stacked" on another domed form of the same felt. The lower form has a horizontal "tuck" near the base, enhancing the impression of the hat being stacked felt domes. On right side of the crown near base is an applied bow of the same felt. The hat is unlined, with an inner dark blue grosgrain ribbon hatband. Stamped inside the crown: "Premier / Finest Quality / Imported / Velour" Joint Designer's and Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Original / Expressly for / Neiman-Marcus". Retains original Neiman-Marcus paper tag. Obverse: "Neiman-Marcus / B830 / x8SINZ / 7529x / 2995"; Reverse: "15 00" With matching hatpin, the head covered with a small pad of the same felt as the hat.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte

Calotte

Date: 1955
Creator: Carnegie, Hattie
Description: Hat of green felt. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat has a domed green felt crown, and a brim that folds up around the crown, extending almost as high as the crown in front. At the base of the crown, within the area of the brim, is a gather of brown veiling/netting that runs about 3/4 of the circumference of the crown. The hat is unlined, with an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband at the inside base of the crown. A stitched mark on the hatband indicates the front of the hat. Designer's / Retailer's combined label: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Original / Expressly for / Neiman-Marcus" Stamped inside crown: "Made in Italy"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte

Calotte

Date: 1955
Creator: Carnegie, Hattie
Description: Hat of beige felt/velor. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat has a domed beige felt crown "stacked" on another domed form of the same felt. The outer crown is "cut open" and "peeled back", to reveal the crown below. The lower edge of the crown is rolled up and in to create the appearance of a narrow rolled brim. The hat is unlined, with an inner dark beige grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Casual" Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus" Supplier's mark stamped inside crown: "Riviera / Finest Quality / Velour / Made in Italy"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte Hat

Calotte Hat

Date: 1955
Creator: Carnegie, Hattie
Description: Calotte style hat of navy blue straw. Straw is patterned to look like flattened bow ends; brimless. Designer's label: "Hattie Carnegie"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1950
Creator: Carnegie, Hattie
Description: Hat of straw and velvet. The short, cylindrical crown is of woven natural-colored straw, with off-center "peak". The crown is edged along top with a narrow band of orange velvet. The sides of the crown are covered in black velvet, and there is an inner band of black velvet-covered straw that extends below the sides of the crown. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. On the band, a small sewn start designates the front of the hat. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Custom Made", and with a (later?) price tag attached. Accompanied by a short hatpin, the head covered with woven straw matching the hat.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1955
Creator: Carnegie, Hattie
Description: Hat of navy blue straw. The turban-like hat is composed of a bulbus crown of woven navy blue straw which is edged in grosgrain ribbon. For one-half of the distance around the hat, the ribbon is dark navy blue, for the other half it is red. The two ends cross over in the front, with ends extending upwards on the front of the hat. The hat is unlined, with an inner dark blue grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design