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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
The Magdalene
"The Magdalene" Robe of red and black mixed fabrics and appliqué trims. Long, straight sleeves and notched collar. The diamond-shaped center back panel is of mixed cotton patchwork, and includes images of a planet, an abstracted female figure, and snakes, set in an evening landscape. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc795295/
Evening Dress
Evening dress in shades of cobalt blue silk chiffon with leopards in profile and leopard spot print throughout. Entire dress is accented with bugle beads of blue iridescent and metallic gold. Straight, unstructured silhouette with round neckline and long unlined sleeves. Center back zipper closure with hook & eye at neckline. Lined in rayon from shoulders to hem; 15" slit at left side. Designer's label inside skirt: "[6 Japanese characters] / Hanae Mori" Retailer's label inside skirt: "Neiman-Marcus" Size label attached to Designer's label: "12" Fabric/care label inside back at upper neckline: "Out Cloth 100% Silk / Lining 100% Rayon / Size / Made In Japan / Dry Cleaning Only" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc795275/
Coat
Coat of vertical pieced chocolate mink fur with notched collar and wide, long cuffed sleeves. Four concealed hook-and-eyes down center front. Side slit pockets lined in black velvet(?). Below hip-length. Fully lined in dark brown synthetic. Retailer's label inside at back collar: "Neiman-Marcus". Name embroidered at inside right side: "Lorene Rhoades" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc795262/
Child's Dress
Child's dress of blue cotton batiste with white embroidery. Short, puffed sleeves with rolled cuff and white embroidered scalloped edges. Rounded neckline with white embroidered scalloped edges. Small pin tuck pleats at front shoulders; center front is embellished with embroidery in scroll and floral motif. Center front opening of six white buttons (one missing) and barred buttonholes. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc795280/
Girl's Dress
Girl's dress of off-white cotton canvas feed sack material with stemmed yellow rose print. Double Peter Pan style collar with scalloped ruffle trim. Gathered and pleated short sleeves with matching scalloped ruffle trim. Empire waist; knee length. Center back closure of three circular pearl buttons an barred buttonholes. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc795235/
Sacred Space II
"Sacred Space II" Jacket in long-line style of dark blue denim with multiple bands of trim and mirrored panels on the front upper left and right with appliqued peacocks. The large center back panel of patchwork includes images of two appliqued swans with a fairy flying above, and a castle in the background. Designer's label at exterior bottom of back panel: "Amy Zerner" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc795259/
Coat
Coat of deep purple dyed fox fur pieced and sewn in a chevron pattern. Two buttons of black plastic with brown leather loop closure. Coat folds over at back neckline creating a slight lapel at front. Long sleeves were custom tailored by folding under to create a shorter length. Below hip-length. Lined in black silk with four words, "FENDI, ALTA, MODA, PRONTA", in brown print forming a diamond shape. Lining embroidered at right side: "Linda T. Anderson". Retailer's label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus" Fiber content tag at left side seam. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc795258/
Rose Garden
Jacket of dark blue denim combined with a dark red embroidered yoke and a variety of multi-colored trim. The rectangle-shaped center back panel is made up of a mixed cotton patchwork and an embroidered hummingbird in a flora and fauna motif. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Amy Zerner / Spiritual Couture" Content/care tag and size "3" tag attached to base of designer label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc795232/
Victor Costa
Short documentary on fashion designer Victor Costa. Created on the occasion of Mr. Costa receiving the Legend's Award of the University of Houston's College of Technology in November 2015, the video includes archival still and motion images, interviews with Victor Costa, Robert Sakowitz, Roz Pactor, and Jerry Ann Woodfin Costa. Discusses his early life in Houston, education, and work as a fashion designer. Footage includes early interviews and fashion shows. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc789285/
[Costume Design]
Reproduction of a costume design for an unidentified female costume by Lilli Wolff, believed to date from before 1945. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc770797/
[Costume Design]
Reproduction of a costume design for an unidentified female costume by Lilli Wolff, believed to date from before 1945. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc770766/
[Costume Design]
Reproduction of a costume design for an unidentified female costume by Lilli Wolff, believed to date from before 1945. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc770760/
[Costume Design]
Reproduction of a costume design for an unidentified female costume by Lilli Wolff, believed to date from before 1945. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc770865/
[Three photographs relating to weddings]
[Three photographs mounted on sheet of paper] Photograph 1 is of part of a wedding party, consisting of: a young woman in a lace wedding gown; an older woman - designer Lilli Wolff - in a yellow and white dress; and an older woman in a blue dress. Photograph 2 is of a wedding party consisting of: a woman in a pink satin dress; a man in a tuxedo; and older woman - designer Lilli Wolff - in a blue satin dress; a young woman in a lace bridal gown; and older woman in a white dress; a woman mostly obscured in background; a woman facing background, wearing a blue dress. Photograph 3 is of a miniature wedding dress doll(?) in a box, resting on a chair in an unidentified interior. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc770671/
[Stage Performance]
Photograph of a man and woman, kissing. Taken from a performance, the photograph shows a woman in a short, polka dot dress and a man in a dark suit with a rifle. Both faces are obscured by hat of man. To left is a stage-set pine tree. Stamped on reverse: "Phone TEMPLE BAR 6547. / PERFECT PHOTO REPRODUCTION Co. / Coliseum Chambers, 24 CHANDOS STREET, W.C.2 / MANAGER: JOE DAVIS." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc770802/
[Wedding Group, including designer Lilli Wolff]
Photograph of part of a wedding party. View is of three women standing in front of a vine-covered trellis. At left is younger woman in white lace bridal gown and veil, at center is older woman - designer Lilli Wolff - in yellow and white dress, and at left is older woman in pale blue dress. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc770749/
[Wedding Group, including designer Lilli Wolff]
Photograph of part of a wedding party. Group consists of: a young woman in a pale pink satin, gray satin, and white lace dress; a man in a tuxedo; an older woman - Lilli Wolff - in a blue satin dress; a young woman in a white lace bridal gown. All stand in front of a trellis with scattered greenery. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc770822/
[Costume Design]
Reproduction of a costume design for an unidentified female costume by Lilli Wolff, believed to date from before 1945. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc770669/
[Fashion Design]
Original fashion design by Lilli Wolff. Possibly for a costume, of a female figure with gold-accented dress and flowing pink belt/sash represented on sketch by an applied cut-out piece of paper. Drawing is overlaid with black mesh, and mounted on larger board. Believed to have been done between 1945 and 1960. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc770707/
[Fashion Design]
Original sketch for a fashion design by Lilli Wolff. Female figure with dress in shades of blue, with swatches attached to mount, and penciled notations. Believed to have been done in the United States after 1950. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc770780/
[Costume Design]
Reproduction of a costume design(?) for an unidentified male and female costumes of Persian style figures on a horse, by Lilli Wolff, believed to date from before 1945. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc770825/
[Costume Design]
Reproduction of a costume design for an unidentified female costume by Lilli Wolff, believed to date from before 1945. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc770784/
[Costume Design]
Reproduction of a costume design for an unidentified female costume by Lilli Wolff, believed to date from before 1945. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc770807/
[Costume Design]
Reproduction of a costume design for an unidentified female costume by Lilli Wolff, believed to date from before 1945. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc770683/
[Costume Design]
Reproduction of a costume design for an unidentified female costume by Lilli Wolff, believed to date from before 1945. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc770778/
[Fashion Design]
Original fashion design by Lilli Wolff. Possibly for a festival gown, design for a female figure with yellow full skirted dress. Various penciled notes and two penciled variations for the skirt design. Believed to have been done between 1945 and 1960, most likely in Dallas, Texas. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc770789/
[Fashion Design]
Original fashion design by Lilli Wolff. Possibly for a festival gown, design for a female figure with tiered full skirted dress. Believed to have been done between 1945 and 1960, most likely in Dallas, Texas. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc770814/
[Sketch]
Original sketch for a fashion design by Lilli Wolff. Possibly for a costume, of a female figure with black dress accented with pink bow and ruffles, and green gloves and shoes. Believed to have been done in Germany before 1945. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc770754/
Belt
Belt of gold-colored metal. Heavy double-link chain with 7 "GG" openwork plaques and a single "G" spring clasp. Marks:"Gucci / Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701456/
Trench Coat
Trench coat of brown and white tweed wool. Street length, double breasted, with bracelet-length sleeves with wide turned-back cuffs. Secured at front with four large brown faux-tortoiseshell buttons in two pairs, and a fifth inner upper left collar point to secure label/placket. Slit pockets at hips. Lined in brown silk(?) Combined Designer's / Retailer's label at center back inside collar: "Pietro / Neiman-Marcus" [on same line, Pietro in tall thin letters at center, Neiman-Marcus in shorter thick letters extending across. Fabric maker's label at inside right side "Anglo Fabrics / 100%Wool" embroidered "over" a coat of arms design in damask with legend reading "Webster Dudley / Quality and Style". With accompanying belt covered in matching wool tweed, with rectangular buckle covered in same fabric. Backed in dark brown leather. Stamped on reverse: "10" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701479/
Ensemble - Dress, Jacket, and Muff
Evening ensemble of golden olive green lightweight wool twill: A) Short jacket. No collar, center front opening with 4 hook-and-loop closures. Back has section of bloused fabric giving the effect of a faux hood hanging back. Wide bands of decoration on front, yoke, and on faux "hood" of back, in the form of golden vines of gold braid and leaves and flowers of gold and pearl beads. Fully lined in olive silk crepe. Label at center back inside neckline: "Milgrim". B) Full length evening dress of matching fabric. Sleeveless, wide straps. Moderate neckline with "bow" effect at front. Just below knot of bow is accent of brown mink. Slight train to back of skirt. Side zipper closure. Fully lined in green silk crepe matching jacket. Label inside skirt: "Milgrim" C) Muff of matching fabric. Large trapezoidal shaped muff, the front with two large tiers of mink tails and a large bow with floral pattern in tiny white seed beads accented in gold beads and with scrolling gold embroidery. Zipper compartment on back. Label inside pocket: "This Article / 10 Year Guarantee" "Berlou / Moth / Proofed" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701451/
Skirt - Vest, Skirt, and Dickey
Suit/ensemble of maize-yellow linen(?) (Possibly blend), consisting of: A) Vest/Sleeveless jacket. Waist-length or slightly lower. Front opening, slightly off-center to left side, with three faux thick, circular, "nobbly", chunky buttons in false buttonholes on plaquet, secured with 6 hidden cloth-covered snaps. Princess seams. Spread collar. Fully lined in yellow silk(?). Designer's label at inside right front flap: "Geoffrey Beene". B) Skirt. Knee-length or slightly below. Narrow, slightly A-line due to darts and fitting at narrow waistband. Two hooks and snap on waistband at left, above zipper. Front with small gathers. Slit pockets at hips. Fully lined in yellow silk(?). Retailer's label at inside seam near hem: "Neiman-Marcus" C) Dickey of gray to black and dark ivory silk. Triangular shape, with collar, attaches with four hidden snaps, with dress weights sewn into lower point and to space slightly below throat. Printed in a pattern of patches of grey/black hatching on the dark ivory ground. No labels on garment. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701372/
Evening Dress
Evening dress of rose wool crepe with modified princess seaming. Full length; sleeveless. Scoop neckline with squared bottom. Gusset on right seam at hem. Center back closure of three large conical buttons fashioned from magenta/purple and white marbled spherical beads; closure supported with six covered snaps and hook & eye; bound buttonholes cut on a diagonal. Lined in pink silk douppioni. Designer's label at left underarm: "Galanos" Retailer's label at right underarm: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701397/
Suit - Jacket and Skirt
Suit (jacket and skirt) of heavy woven polyester(?) in a harlequin pattern of diamonds of off-white, brown, beige, and tan. Suit consists of: A) Jacket. Short, waist length jacket with long sleeves edged in narrow band of same fabric. Double breasted, with two hidden snaps and with 6 large circular plastic buttons at front in 3 pairs, each button of medium brown with light tan ring around rim. Princess darts for fit. Fully lined in tan acetate. Designer's label at inside neckline: "Irene Galitzine / Roma" B) Skirt. Matching skirt, knee-length or slightly shorter, slightly A-line from front, with flat front and with heavy, large box pleats at back. Narrow waistband with two hook-and eye fasteners at right side above side zipper. Lining matches jacket's lining. Designer's label at center back inside waistline: "Irene Galitzine / Roma" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701415/
Poster Dress: "The Cat"
"The Cat" (aka "Pussy Cat") poster dress. Mini-dress of screen printed "paper" (75% rayon, 25% nylon? or tissue/rayon/wood pulp), of simple a-line shape, rounded neckline, sleeveless, with velcro opening at left shoulder. Velcro along left seam. Approx. knee-length. Unlined. Label has detached from center back inside neckline, held on hanger with safety pin. "London" Poster tm Dress" "Medium" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701376/
Day Dress
Day dress of olive green ground with small floral print in browns and creams. Street-length, with no collar and V-neckline. Slight gathers at sides of neckline. Short dolman sleeves with underarm gussets. Bodice is double-breasted, with self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes. A-line skirt, pleats/gathers at waistline. Lined in gold silk faille. Designer's label at left side seam: "Adele Simpson" Retailer's label at left side seam: "Neiman-Marcus" With matching contour belt of brown leather covered with same silk print. Rectangular buckle covered with same fabric. No labels/marks on belt. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701486/
Minidress
Minidress of grey ribbed polyester knit; bias cut. Sleeveless with wide armholes. A-line; knee length. Scoop neck front and back with cutout at center back of yoke. Slim silhouette; four panels with slit pockets at sides of center front panel. Zipper closure at back of left side panel. Lined in gray polyester. Designer's label at inside side seam: "Jon Haggins" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701539/
Evening Gown
Evening gown of rose pink silk. Full-length, sleeveless, with sweetheart neckline and thin satin cord double-straps at each shoulder. Bodice with fan-shaped radiating seaming from center line outwards over each cup, but not meeting at center point - left side starting higher than right. Raised waist, into which skirt is gathered. From sides, towards front, and down along sides of front is "fin" of same fabric, which extends out, with slight "ruffle" effect to edge. Center back zipper closure. Part-lined in very pale peach/pink fabric (bust, upper abdomen, etc. Retailer's label inside skirt at side seam, partly printed, partly hand-written: "Bergdorf-Goodman / Fifth Ave., New York / Mrs. R. Lloyd / Date: 10/13/41 No. 17313" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701363/
Infant's Dress
Infant's dress of fine batiste cotton with broderie anglaise. Yoke has attached 4"ruffle of broderie anglaise with insertion lace and pink satin ribbon. Long sleeves have insertion lace cuffs and pink satin ribbon. Full length. No labels in garment. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701412/
Suit - Jacket and Skirt
Suit of beige linen with bands of beige silk embroidered fan-shapes. Suit consists of: A) Jacket. Waist-length or slightly longer, single-breasted, with 5 self-covered and embroidered conical buttons and bound button holes. Long sleeves with turned-back cuffs secured at openings. Bust darts for fitting. Collar and lapels with bands of same embroidery as rest of suit. Single pocket above left breast, with bound buttonhole style opening, and smaller bound buttonhole style opening horizontally above main opening. Lined in beige silk. Torso of jacket with three horizontal bands of beige embroidered bands of fan shapes, sleeves with two bands, and then with cuffs covered with the embroidery. Combined designer's/retailer's label at inside back neckline: "Irene / Exclusively for / Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" B) Skirt. Street-length, straight skirt with slight darts around waist for fitting. 1 1/8" wide waistband, with inner beige grosgrain petersham. Waistband and petersham with hook-and-eye closures over left side zipper. Skirt has 4 wide bands of embroidery, each band consisting of rows of beige fan-shapes. Unlined. No labels in skirt. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701368/
Child's Dress
Child's dress of black wool with red paisley trim. Full length dress, with turned down collar of paisley print. Long sleeves with 4" cuffs trimmed in matching paisley print. Center front opening with 15 nonfunctional paisley covered buttons with hook & eyes underneath. Side pockets trimmed in paisley print. Center back panel is gathered at waist to give slight bustle effect and is belted in paisley print with oval buckle in black ribbed fabric. Lined in brown polished cotton. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701506/
Evening Coat
Evening coat of cream/ecru wool with beige velvet accents and braided cream cord trim. Full length; center front opening with single hook & eye closure. Wide, 3/4 length dolman sleeves with velvet cuffs. Silk cord in scroll and chain pattern outlined front, sleeves and back to waist. Two inside pockets; ivory silk lining. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701461/
Wedding Dress
Wedding dress. Off-white wedding dress of polyester(?). Mini length, with rounded scooped neckline, short sleeves, and slightly raised waist. Center front of bodice with wide vertical band of white lace from neckline to waist. Sleeves are short, gathered into shoulder, and appear to have two flounces of lace, but are actually two sleeves each, a shorter and a slightly longer inside, creating the flounced look. Skirt gathered into waist. Center back zipper. The inside neckline hem edge, and inside edge of lower hem with narrow off-white lace "tape" binding. No labels in garment. With ribbon sash belt of off-white/ivory satin, 1 1/2" wide x 89" long, with swallow-tail ends. With accompanying headpiece/veil. Off-white satin covered headband with white embroidered/appliqued scrolling foliage forms set with tiny pearls and crystals. Attached to headband are two layers of fine off-white net/tulle veiling, shoulder and mid-back length. Small metal comb attached to headband to secure to wearer's head. Satin ribbon lining to headband. No labels in headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701504/
Day Dress
Day dress of printed cotton, brown on white, with black "spots" in a very tiny geometric pattern. Just below knee length. Double collar and cuffs with white cotton(?) button-in, detachable panels. Short sleeves, pleated into hems. V-neckline below collar, which has lower placket opening with three circular black buttons and bound buttonholes, and one hook-and-loop at waist, inner petersham with hooks and eyes, and series of 4 hidden snaps at center front of skirt. Natural waist, into which bodice and skirt are pleated. Full skirt. Lined in ivory organza/organdy. Designer's label at inside left seam of skirt: "Mollie Parnis / New York" Union label near designer's label. Size label at inside of skirt opening: "Size 10" With accompanying belt of black patent leather; 2" wide with square buckle. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701473/
Wedding Dress
Wedding dress of white chiffon(?), tulle, and lace. Full-length, full skirt. Empire waist. Long sleeves, with 3" lace cuffs and lace ruffle and two bands of matching lace running length of sleeve. Lace ruffle around shoulder. Square neckline, filled in with lace, which rises to form high standing collar with ruffle. Band of lace at waist and two bands down front. Cathedral train with two tiers of self at lower part of skirt, edged in lace. Lapped center back zipper. Attached slip of ivory synthetic, and very full layer of tulle. Tiers also with under layer of tulle. Union Label inside skirt. With matching headpiece/veil. Rigid cylindrical headpiece of stiffened, wired lace, the sides of which extend down in points, from the crown of which spring 3 layers of white tulle, the shortest (shoulder length) and middle (calf-length) layers edged with lace to match dress, the longest (trailing behind) with plain edge. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701512/
Coat
Coat of golden seal fur with mink collar. Hip-length "Stroller" coat has long sleeves and center-front opening with three large circular simulated wood buttons. Large patch pockets. Collar of black mink. Retailer's label inside back collar: "Neusteters" Fur Authority Label inside right pocket. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701408/
Child's Sundress
Child's sundress of horizontally striped blue, brown, and white cotton delusted satin. Rounded neckline, higher in front than back; sleeveless. Neckline and armholes piped in matching blue fabric. Left side closure with 5 buttons. Full skirt, gathered at waistline with blue piping. Tie belt of same fabric attached at sides and ties in back. Upper bodice lined of cream colored muslin. Maker's label at inside back neck: "Kate / Greenaway / Frock" Paper size tag behind maker's tag. Original Hope Skillman paper tag attached, with hand-written note identifying designer Joan Ballew. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701430/
Ensemble - Blouse, Pants, and Sash
Ensemble of magenta silk chiffon consisting of: (A) Tunic style top of printed chiffon with bodice in lotus flower motif. Low crossover, V-shaped front with closure of two covered snaps. Long flowing, bell-shaped sleeves and flared skirt. Skirt and sleeve hems have monofilament inserted to give body and shape. Bodice lined in light blue rayon chiffon. Designer's label at center back neckline: "(Japanese characters) / Hanea Mori " Retailer's label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus" Content/care label at center back neckline. Size "14" tag attached to base of designer label. (B) Pants of magenta silk chiffon. Wide legs of three layers of chiffon. Center back opening of five covered snaps with hook & bar and additional covered snap on 1" waistband. Size "14" tag at center back. (C) Sash of matching lotus flower motif printed chiffon. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701407/
Dress
Dress in shift style of violet, blue and pink flower motif silk with outer layer of black chiffon. Attached cape overlay on back in black chiffon with matching flower motif. Square neck elasticized at shoulders scoops in back; elbow length butterfly sleeves of black chiffon. Center back zipper with hook & eye on dress and covered snaps on cape. Lined in black rayon. Designer's label at back neckline: "(Japanese characters) / Hanae Mori" Size "10" tag attached to base of designer label. Content/care label at back neckline. Retailer's label on center back seam of dress near hem: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701508/
Child's Dress
Child's dress of black & tan woven cotton check/plaid. Full-length, with high, rounded collar. Set in black taffeta full-length sleeves with wide cuffs of the black/tan check, secured with two mother of pearl buttons each. Natural waist. Hem with wide band of ruffled black taffeta and a plain band of black taffeta running slightly above hem. Patch pocket at right hip composed of plaid panels formed as a "vest", with black taffeta ruffle filling in center, and three non-functioning circular mother of pearl buttons on slight curve following edge of "vest" front non-functioning opening. Center back opening with 9 circular mother of pearl buttons and hook & loop at neckline. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701507/