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UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Texas Fashion Collection
Hat of black fur felt. Pillbox style crown dips at sides. Edge of black satin and black ostrich feather trim on side. Two hatpins with black, oval heads (one broken). Inner headband of black grosgrain ribbon.
Retailer's label on inside headband: "Bonwit Teller"
Stamp on inside crown: "Mousse / Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286824/
- Cloche Hat
Cloche-like hat of brown felt velour. Brown grosgrain ribbon hatband forms double bow in front. Unlined with brown grosgrain ribbon inner headband.
Label on inside headband: "Genuine / Velour"
Union label to right of content label digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286852/
Hatlet of black velvet. The headpiece is formed as a stiffened black velvet band which has a large black velvet bow at each end.
Designer's label: "Martin Belasco"
Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286833/
- Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of brown wool.
A) Jacket, Lower-hip length, collarless, and with 3 button-and-loop closures at center-front. Long sleeves with slit and single button closure at wrists. Welt pockets at hips, and princess seams. Inner shoulder pads, and brown polyester lining.
B) Matching short skirt, with 1” waistband. Button tab and side zip closure. Waistband is lined with grosgrain ribbon, and the skirt is lined in brown polyester.
Designer's label: "Giorgio Armani / A Milano Borgonuovo 21" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286841/
Hat of navy straw. Domed crown and wide, floppy brim trimmed with white topstitching. Two large white silk flowers, leaves and stems as trim on crown. Hatpin with black, oval head. Unlined with navy grosgrain ribbon inner headband.
Retailer' label on inside crown: "Neiman-Marcus / Made to Order"
Tag on inside headband: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286839/
Cloche of brown/rust/beige crochet. The cloche is of openwork crochet, with a high, domed crown, having a wide band at lower edge that is solid crochet. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286865/
Dress of bright lime green wool. Knee-lenght and sleeveless, with a high neckline ornamented with 6 rows of topstitching. Empire waisted, with the lower portion of dress split into four long panels, scalloped to form petals with quilted, topstitched edges. Center back zipper with two hook & eyes. Upper portion of dress lined in lime colored acetate.
Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York"
Retailer's label beneath designer's label: "Marie Leavell" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286835/
- Picture Hat
Picture hat of muted orange/red straw. The low crown is sunken at edges and domed at center, and is encircled by a wide, gathered band of matching chiffon. The wide, somewhat floppy brim curves downwards and rolls under at edge. The hat is unlined, with a matching grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. It is accompanied by a single hatpin with a matching bead head.
Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286864/
- Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black and gray fine plaid. The cylindrical crown is flattened at top, and has sides with horizontal pleats of same material. At front of hat is a self-covered circular button. Lined with a gold damask/brocade fabric, trimmed with gold cord edging at inner edge.
Maker's label: "Henrys / Dallas"
Accompanied by one hatpin, the head covered with black cloth. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286894/
Hat of faux fur (Jaguar?). Constructed on a felt base, the conical crown has a flattened top, and is encircled by a wide band of black grosgrain ribbon. At front of hat ribbon is tied into a bow, and enhanced with a rhinestone-set spherical ornament. The wide brim curves down steeply. The hat is unlined, showing felt base, and has a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband.
Stamped inside the crown: "Imported Body / Made in Austria" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286805/
- Picture Hat
Picture hat of natural straw. Low, shallow domed crown is encircled by a wreath of eight large magenta silk and velvet roses with green velvet leaves, all attached to a green velvet ribbon which ties at back with trailing ribbons. The wide, 5" brim turns downwards. Hat is unlined, with green grosgrain ribbon inner hatband.
Designer's label: "Edna Mye / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286817/
Hat of muted violet straw. Styled somewhat as a sailor hat, the 2 1/2" conical crown is flattened at top, and has slightly sloping sides. Encircling the base of the crown is a 3/4" wide hatband of twisted muted cerise pink and purple velvet ribbons. At front of crown is a cluster of four velvet roses, 2 violet, 2 cerise with green leaves. Mounted above the roses is a violet velvet wrapped stand-up ornament with small bow at top, slightly to left of center front crown. The 4" wide flat brim has a narrow magenta velvet rolled band on underside of the outer edge. The hat is unlined, with an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Designer's label: "3410 Oak Lawn / Bernie A. Cahn / Dallas, Tex" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286890/
Hat of black velvet. Soft cylindrical crown has a flattened top, and is encircled at base by a band of black grosgrain ribbon, tied into a bow at side and with trailing ends. Almost circular brim is split at right side, curves down somewhat, and is enhanced by concentric rows of top-stiching. The underside of the brim is lined in white.
Designer's label: "Betmar" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286863/
- Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of black English gabardine.
a) Jacket with parallel rows of scalloped seam details which angle from the center front neck and shoulders to the side seam to meet the back scalloped seams. Convertible collar. Long, two-piece sleeves with scallop seam detail from wrist to shoulder; underarm shaped with dart. Center front opening with three self covered buttons with bound buttonholes. Lined in black textured silk.
Designer's label at inside, right front buttonhole extension: "Adrian / Original"
Retailer's label at inside back neckline: " Neiman-Marcus"
b) Pencil skirt of same with center front scallop from hip to hem; last scallop is used for shaped vent. Lined in black textured silk. Lapped left-side zipper. Waistband overlap ends in a triangle. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286829/
- Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black velvet. The somewhat large, flat-topped crown is slightly conical, and with no decoration; it has an inner green grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286866/
- Cocktail Dress
Cocktail dress of black and pale pink acetate with black tulle lace over vest of bust and on trim of sleeves and hem; three-quarter length sleeves with gathering at shoulders, elasticized at forearms, and 4” lace trim; bodice has vest of pale pink acetate with over-layer of black tulle lace; scalloped, soft V-neckline; skirt of black acetate gathered into a satin ribbon at hem trimmed in scalloped lace; below knee-length; center-back zip closure.
Designer's label: "Pat Kerr / One / Cumberland Place / London" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286889/
- Shirt Dress
Shirt dress of black rayon, cotton, and acrylic; vest of bodice is of a leather-like open-check fabric with two slanted patch pockets at bust with box pleat at center and lapels; shirt collar with open-square notched lapel and snap placket down center-front with snap covers of black squares; elbow-length sleeves; skirt with two patch pockets at each side with pleats below lapel; knee-length. Size 42
With matching belt of black cotton backed with leather; covered rhombus buckle has one elongated angle; 34 ½” length.
Designer's label: "Thierry Mugler / Activ" "Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286896/
- Pillbox Hat
Pillbox of beige linen. The low, cylindrical crown is plain, with slight "lapped" edge at bottom. Lined in a fabric with golden threads, edged with gold rickrack. Inner white grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Designer's label: "by Derrieux" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286882/
Hat of navy blue straw. The very shallow crown is slightly domed, and surmounted by a large flat grosgrain ribbon bow. The wide brim curves down at outer edges, forming a deep curve. The whole rests on a hidden skull-cap crown with panel that extends down and over the back and sides of head. The hat is overlaid with a dark blue net veil worked with circular areas. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286840/
- Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of light brown mink. The low, circular crown is made of mink tails arranged in a pinwheel design, radiating from center of the flat top of the crown. Lined in mesh and a brocade floral fabric. Inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband.
No labels in garment. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286801/
Straight cape/cloak of black long-hair monkey fur. Full length, no arm holes, arm slits nor sleeves and no collar. 5 heavy hook and eye closures down center front. Fully lined in black wool crepe-felted. Very heavy. Likely to be Colobus monkey.
Designer's label at right side at seam "Hattie Carnegie"
Retailer's label at back center top "Neiman-Marcus Dallas"; digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286874/
Toque hat of black felt. The brimless hat has a high, cylindrical crown which is higher in front than back; and with a sunken top which is domed at center. Around the front and sides are applied wide curving bands of black satin ribbon. The front and sides are overlaid by black net veiling, which extends slightly down over wearer's face. The hat is unlined. Stamped inside: "Body Made In / Italy / Union Made". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286774/
a) Dress of silk knit with orange, pink, lime, purple, white and black motif. Signature of designer "Emilio" in fabric pattern. Round, bateau neckline; elbow length sleeves. Below knee length.
Designer's label on inside back neckline: "Emilio Pucci / Florence - Italy / 100% Pure Silk / Made in Italy"
Retailer's label below designer's label: "Made in Italy Exclusively For / Saks Fifth Avenue"
Cleaning instructions and size tag at base of retailer's label.
b) Tie belt of same fabric. Fringe of clear blue beads on ends. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286867/
- Aviator's Cap Hat
Hat in the form of a white leather Aviator's Cap. The domed ovoid crown is made in six triangular sections, and has straps which extend down and buckle under the chin with two oval gilt metal links. The cap is lined with black satin, and has an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Designer's label: "Adolfo / New York Paris"
Retailer's Label: "Amen Wardy / El Paso Texas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286812/
- Aviator's Cap Hat
Hat in the form of a black leather Aviator's Cap. The domed ovoid crown is made in six triangular sections, and has straps which extend down and buckle under the chin with two oval gilt metal links. The cap is lined with black satin, and has an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Designer's label: "Adolfo / New York Paris"
Retailer's Label: "Amen Wardy / El Paso Texas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286843/
Hat of royal blue felt. The high, domed crown is encircled at base by a band of the same material, with a flat bow at back. The medium-width brim turns up at the outer edge. The hat is unlined, with an inner dark blue grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Designer's label: "Sally Victor / Boutique / New York"
Retailer's label: "Amen Wardy / El Paso Texas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286915/
Hat of black felt. The domed crown is encircled at base by a 1" wide ribon of the same felt, forming a bow at front with trailing end. The shaped brim is turned up at sides and back to a height of 3"; in front the turn-up angles downwards and becomes a short, flat section in front. The crown of the hat is lined in a black mesh, and has an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Designer's label: "Emme Inc. / New York"
Retailer's label: "Amen Wardy / El Paso * Texas"
Illegible mark of felt maker inside crown. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286922/
Hat of red felt. Hat has a high, domed crown of smooth red felt. Around the base of the crown is a wide hatband made of a mosaic of various types and colors of feathers. At one side is a cluster of ostrich and spotted feathers forming a pom-pom, with one long curling brown striped extending up and back. The wide felt brim is somewhat asymmetrical, and curves down except for near the pom-pom, where it waves upwards. Inside, at base of crown, is red grosgrain ribbon band.
Sewn to the inner ribbon band are two labels. Designer's label: "Adolfo / New York Paris"; Retailer's label: "Amen Wardy / El Paso Texas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286869/
Hat of black wool felt with attached scarf of black jersey wool. Wide, slightly asymmetrical brim. Domed crown with narrow headband of same which crosses in back and trails to edge of brim. Unlined with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband.
Stamp on inside crown: "Made in Poland / Tally-Ho / Pollak Imp Ex Corp / 100% Wool"
Retailer's label on inside headband: "Saks Fifth Avenue" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286826/
Hat of off-white straw embroidery. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot") with shaped close crown of off-white straw embroidered with several rosettes of straw, connected by a field of straw. The shaped outer edge is wound with the same straw. The hat is unlined, allowing the underlying mesh to be seen. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" and origin label "Made In Italy". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286786/
Hat of natural colored finely woven straw with narrow brim that curves up in front. Domed crown trimmed with olive colored tubing with red, yellow and white velvet flowers. Unlined with pale yellow grosgrain ribbon inner headband.
Retailer's label: "Made to Order Hat / Bergdorf / Goodman / Fifth Ave. at 58th St." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286885/
Hat of black velvet. Toque style crown of black lace covered with flat strips of black velvet ribbon on sides. Edge of brim covered in black velvet. Unlined.
Retailer's label on inside crown: " Sakowitz / Houston" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286877/
Dress of brown/beige coffee-colored wool. The short, A-line dress with shallow boat-neckline, short, cap-sleeves. Front and back of dress with diamond-shaped motif created by slot seams with cream background/under layer. Similar seaming across top of sleeves and joining diamond motifs around sides. Center back zipper with hook-and-eye at neckline. Lined in off-white silk(?).
Designer's label: "Jean Marie Armand / Paris / Made in France"
Retailer's label: "Made in France especially for / Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286912/
- Ensemble - Dress and Coat
A) Brown sheath dress of lace with floral motif, heavily hand beaded with tiny brown beads. Mid-length, scooped neckline, deeper in back. Sleeveless, with narrow straps. Slightly shaped hem. Inner brown satin lining sheath.
Design house's label inside: "Mingolini Gugenheim / Piazza di Spagna 9-91- Roma"
B) Brown sheer organza coat, mid-length, shawl collar, center front opening fastened by belt. mid-length sleeves. Leather belt built into waistline, covered with organza, the hook buckles covered in brown beading as dress. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286803/
White leather mini-skirt with 4 applied black leather bands running horizontally around skirt. White leather suspenders attached at back, cross at back, and run over shoulders to fasten at circular white leather-covered buttons on waistband in front. Fully lined in white nylon. Shirt does not fit tight at waist.
Pictured with black knit turtle-neck top, long-sleeves.
Designer's label: "Courreges / Exclusively Designed in / Leather and Fabric for / Samuel Robert" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286823/
- Skirt Suit
Ecru worsted wool two-piece suit.
A: Jacket with center front opening with four beige plastic buttons with bound button holes, first two spread apart by 2" next two spread apart by 10". Collared. Motif of concentric arced inserts, 1.175" wide each, starting from shoulder point, arcing down past second button. This upside down arc repeats on the back with a rainbow meeting the shoulder's center. On front, two more arc inserts motif repeat, with the rainbow arc stretching over the smaller reversed arc between the sections of buttons. One-piece set in sleeves with double elbow darts. Lined in beige silk faille.
Retailer's label at center back collar: "Neiman-Marcus"
Designer's Label at front right jacket lining: "Adrian / Original"
B: Unlined A-line skirt of same fabric with lapped zipper covered by triangle pointed waistband tip on the left side. Waistband 1 3/8" wide. Four darts total, two in front, two in back. Pinked edge to seam allowances. Hem tape attached to 3" wide hem edge with machine stitch, tape hand based to inside of skirt with blind hem (slip stitch) stitch. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286913/
Bright red/orange wool dress and coat ensemble from 1st collection.
a) Coat of bright red/orange wool. Long sleeves and collared neckline. Double breasted with large, covered snaps on inside as closure. Two pockets formed from panels on coat. Lined in red acetate.
Designer's label at inside, back neckline: "Jean Marie Armand / Paris / Made in France"
b) Dress . Bracelet length sleeves and jewel neckline. Knee length. Center front zipper. Hourglass shaped front panel forms pockets at left and right. Lined in red acetate.
Designer's label at inside, back neckline: "Jean Marie Armand / Paris / Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286926/
Hatlet of navy blue ribbed fabric. The hatlet is formed of plated fabric, layered and curved around to form the low crown. At front is a bow of same grosgrain-type fabric. With navy blue net veiling.
Retailer's label: "Lou Lattimore / Dallas"
With Union Label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286778/
- Skirt Suit
Navy blue two-piece skirt suit of wool consisting of:
A. Fitted jacket with Peter Pan collar. Tab at top of jacket under neck extends two inches past center and buttons on left side with two round buttons. Jacket center opening has one hook at center and one button at waist. Full-length sleeves made in one piece with jacket front and back. Gusset under arm for ease of movement. Right sleeve is decorated with blue and grey stripe pattern which extends up sleeve and across onto tab. Vertical stripe starts from back waist and runs down front, forming plaid at shoulder and is gathered into a narrow band at waist. Stripe continues to hem of jacket and has fold of striped fabric coming from under band to form scarf-like effect. Back is made in 6 sections with plaid design at shoulder and stripes running horizontally and vertically and ending before the absolute center. Band at waist is continued on back right, but does not reach jacket center. Inside lined with blue silk.
Designer's label at center back inside neck: "Adrian / Original"
Retailer's label along left inside flap of opening: "The Fashion / Ben Wolfman Inc. / Houston"
Label for original owner(?): "TJ McBryde"
B: Blue straight skirt with hook and snap closure at left side of waistband and zipper fly. Grey stripe pattern starts at hip area and continues around skirt, not meeting at back center. Vertical stripes fall from right side, forming plaid at intersection of other stripe, and continues to hem. Front center has kick pleat. Skirt does not have label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283768/
- Skirt Suit
Woman's suit of brown wool gabardine.
a) Single breasted, jacket with rectangle motif carried throughout. Convertible collar with 3" points, and one under collar stop 2" from CF as shoulder yoke extends in a 2" wide rectangle parallel to collar edge. Shoulder yoke also extends to self-face the jacket, creating a 1"x 3" rectangle on the underside of the first bound button hold and button.
There are 4 brown buttons with three narrow bound button holes, the second button falling at bottom of rectangle yoke as a inseam button.
Pair of double welt slit pockets below shoulder within a rectangle of opposite grain within the larger rectangle in same grain as welt lips, with rectangle design lines extending over sleeve and top of it slip-stitched to mid-arm scythe.
Two parallel princess seams starting from lower rectangle yoke and front under arm seam run under 8" over-sized pocket flap, narrow to define width of 4" slit pocket. Over-sized bias pocket flap is 8" x 4" with 1 1/2" x 7" vertically center rectangle insert of opposite bias grain both starting from side seam.
Full length set in sleeves with one elbow dart at each under seam. At right sleeve's forearm starts a rectangle welt insert attached til 1 3/4" above cuff, where it floats above sleeve and continues as its own shape to cuff's edge and folds back 1" basted to itself. Lined in copper crepe silk.
Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Adrian / in /British Samek Material"
(b) A-line skirt of matching fabric. One inch folded waistband with triangular tab at lapped left side zipper with snap at tip and 4 sets of hook & eyes on waistband. Two 4" darts on front and two 7" darts on back. Unlined with pinked seam edges. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283765/
- Skirt Suit
Chanel-style woman's two piece suit with blouse.
a)Jacket of novelty knit slub in pink and blue ombre tone. Silk blend fabric. Styled with high, rounded extended neckline and center front opening with no method of closure. Padded shoulders. Long, fitted sleeves with one button mock slit closure at wrist. Button is goldtone, round, with half button incised lines. Short, straight bodice with two small patch pockets at hip with one button trim. Trimmed at all edges with blue and pink band. Partially lined with peach crepe at center front edge, and plain weave lining fabric at back.
Label: "Eres / Beverly Hills"
b) Skirt of matching color tones of slub yarn in plain weave. Silk blend fabric. Straight cut with fitted waistband. Deep slit at lower front seam. Trimmed at waistband with blue and pink band. Center back zipper closure with two hooks at waistband. Fully lined in peach crepe.
Label at waistband: "Eres / Beverly Hills"
Size tag: "8"
c) Blouse of blue silk with vertical stripes. Standing band collar with double ruffle and tie. Center front opening with seven square, glass buttons and hook & eye at collar. Long fitted sleeves with one button, ruffled band cuff. Straight hemline.
Label at neckline: "Eres / Beverly Hills" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283766/
- Skirt Suit
Two-piece skirt suit of tan, lightly striped, possibly synthetic material.
The jacket is a tailored shell with high rounded neckline and square spread collar. Full-length set-in sleeves. constructed in one piece with darts at the elbows. Center front closure from the neck to hip line with four bound buttonholes with corresponding brown tortoise shell buttons. Bound hip pockets with flaps. The jacket front is intricately pieced. Fully lined in light brown crepe.
Designer's label stitched along inside of right front opening: "Adrian / Original"
The skirt is narrow, knee-length, with knee-level kick pleat. The skirt is darted into a narrow waistband, and has a left side seam zipper closure from waist to hip line. Lapped closure with single hook&eye and hook&bar. Unlined with turned back hem. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283771/
- Skirt Suit
Suit of cream/blue/pink wool boucle.
A) Waist-length jacket with round neckline and no collar, two-piece set-in long sleeves, four patch pockets on front, and center-front opening with 5 circular sculptural lion-head gold-tone metal buttons. Matching non-functional buttons sewn on each pocket and on cuffs. Neckline, opening, cuffs, and top edges of pockets with rolled(?) edging. Fully lined in pink silk. Inside bottom hemline weighted with gold chain. No labels.
B) Skirt of same material. Below-knee-length. Slim, almost straight, flaring slightly to hem. Narrow waistband with two hook-and-eye closures, just above zipper closure. Lined in pink silk. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283772/
- Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of navy blue wool twill consisting of:
A) Hip-length jacket with full length tailored sleeves. Collarless neckline which raises 3/4". Single breasted with 3 tortoise buttons and slim bound button holes. Bib-shaped yoke insert with two almost vertical faux pocket flaps. Mid-arm design seams comes to inner top of lower hacking pocket flaps. Hacking pockets have vertical and slim bound buttons holes with one tortoise button for right flap and one turquoise button for left flap. Back inverted triangular yoke starts from shoulders with point ended at center back waist. Tailored sleeve split into upper and under sleeve, with two darts at elbow on under sleeve. Fully lined in (now) indigo crepe silk.
B) Skirt, pencil with seams at center front and back and both sides. 1 1/2" waist band with triangular tip comes to a lapped zipper on left side and 4 sets of hooks and one snap for closure. Two 2" darts on front and two 4" darts on back. 2" simple vent at CF hem, hem has been let down from original length by ~2", using 2" cotton bias tape. Skirt is unlined with pinked cut edges to finish seam inside.
Designer's label: "Adrian / in / British Samek Material"
Retailer's label: "The Fashion / Houston" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283767/
Ensemble consisting of:
A) Jacket of black and white gingham cotton check. Bracelet length sleeves. Side front opening with 7" button extension. On left side front, there are two large circular black plastic buttons at waist and one at top button at neckline flap closure; bound buttonholes. Peter pan collar starts at piping edge of left side front and right side front. Two flap welt pockets. Back with inverted box pleat which starts open at neckline and goes to 2" above waist where it is stitched together. Side back shoulders have flanges which are basted down at bottom.
Collar's, pockets', cuffs', front to back flanges hemline's and front opening's edges all bound in black satin bias tape. Lined in smaller cotton gingham check.
Designer's label at inside center back neckline: "Galanos"
B) Blouse of black and white, small gingham check. Center front opening with 2 (+ 1 missing) black circular plastic buttons supplemented with snaps and hook & eyes. Fitted, flared waist . Sleeveless. Collarless, slightly scooped neckline which forms a V in back. Neckline, sleeve openings and center front opening trimmed in black satin. Lined in fine white net.
Designer's label on inside left seam: "Galanos"
C) A-line skirt, street length, in black and white gingham cotton. Narrow waist of black grosgrain. Left side zipper. Lined in cream colored silk.
d) Contour belt covered in black and white gingham check. Square buckle covered in same. Three holes. Back in light tan leather.
Stamped: "Galanos Originals / Beverly Hills"
e) Hat of quilted black and white gingham check. Black satin headband ties in knot on right. Crown in smaller check than brim. Brim piped in black satin and slits at right beneath headband knot. Lined in alternating triangular sections of large and small gingham check.
Designer's label on inside hatband: "Galanos / 935 (handwritten)" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283773/
- Cocktail Suit
Cocktail suit of black silk satin consisting of:
A) Waist-length jacket formed of vertically arranged heat-set pleats with five horizontal bands applied across the pleats. There is a panel of ivory/off-white silk extending from the neck of the jacket, forming the collar of the jacket and simulating the effect of a blouse being worn under the jacket. The long sleeves are also pleated, with single band near the base of the sleeves, from which extend ivory/off-white silk mock cuffs. Center front opening with three applied black bows on the lower three horizontal bands. The opening is secured with three hook-and-loop closures hidden by the bows. Lined in black silk.
Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Chanel"
Style number tag beneath designer's label: "10967"
B) Matching mid-length skirt of similarly pleated black silk, with a plain waistband and a single horizontal black silk band 2" below the waistband. Three hook-and-loops in the waistband, and four snaps along closure at left hip. Skirt has a single panel of organza lining in back, the rest of the skirt being unlined to allow more movement of the fabric. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283774/
- Skirt Suit
Navy daytime tailored two-piece suit in British Samek wool.
a) Suit jacket of navy British Samek wool. Center front opening with three circular, blue plastic buttons; welted buttonholes button suit jacket. Padded shoulders. Two patch pockets. Notched collar with squared shoulder yoke with matching button attached to square insert. Lined in eggplant crepe.
Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Adrian / in / British Samek Material"
Tag above designer's label: "A. Herod, Sr."
b) Slim straight skirt of navy British Samek wool. Folded waistband of same. Center back zipper with snap and 4 hook and eyes on waistband. Lined in navy blue silk.
Tag on inside waistband: "A. Herod, Sr." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283769/
- Ensemble - Jacket and Dress
Ensemble of printed silk. This cocktail or dinner ensemble in the "New Look" consists of a dress and bolero-style jacket of printed floral ikat silk with a black ground and floral design in gray, browns and dark brown/mauve shades.
A) The dress is mid-calf-length, sleeveless, and with a boat neckline. Tailored to fit, with side bust and waist darts. Self fabric bow at top of waist gore which releases into a box pleat at the skirt. Slightly dropped waist. Under the sides of front box pleat edges are two knife pleats to create fullness, with darts for slimmer waist. On either side of front bock pleat is a small 1"intake pleat to balance fullness of skirt. Side seams have a lapping box pleat and an small triangular insert from front side seams. Back waist has 4 sets of box pleats, two on either side of center back zipper closure. The dress has built-in under-structure consisting of inner half-slip of off-white satin, and three layers of stiffened netting petticoats, all with horsehair braid at hem.
B) The matching jacket is of the same cloth, cropped short in the bolero style. The center-front opening has no closures and is collarless. Raglan style sleeves are tea elbow length. Under sleeve and sleeve cuff is slightly ruched creating a faux cuff look. It is fully lined in a brown silk organza. 4-way underarm gusset. Sewn into the hem are French weights.
There is no label in the dress. The jacket has a single designer's label: "Printemps-Ete 1956 / Christian Dior / Paris" which has stamped on it "80615". The "1956" appears embossed, not printed, and the black backing of the label is cut away behind the "1956". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283770/
Ensemble of blue silk crepe with black and white print, consisting of:
A) Tunic top of silk crepe. Short, bat wing sleeves with insert of black, rectangular material at shoulder line. Mock V-neck opening backed with same material and ties of self. Center back zipper. Unlined.
Designer's label at back zipper: "Adrian / Original"
B) Skirt of same fabric. Straight; below knee-length. Black crepe waistband. Zipper closure with slit at hem line. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283764/
Beret style hat of medium red simulated(?) reptile skin. Pieced crown of eight triangular panels and one half-round panel. Matching covered shank button at center of crown. Stiffened brim with twenty-four rows of horizontal burgundy topstitching. Burgundy grosgrain ribbon headband. Fully lined in gold metallic organza over white organza.
Retailer's label stitched at center of crown lining: "Neiman-Marcus / Made to Order". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283738/