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UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Texas Fashion Collection
Cap of dark gray wool. The cap is styled as a Garrison Cap (aka Side Cap, or Wedge Cap). Influenced by military headgear, this hat is constructed as a flat envelope, which opens along long edge to form a wedge-shaped crown. Running width-wise across crown is a band of the same fabric with parallel lines of top-stitching in white thread. Lined in a dark gray fabric.
No labels in hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286928/
- Skirt Suit
A) Jacket of ivory wool with shirt collar with long, wide lapel that is rolled around toward the front and held in place by 2 gold coiled ornaments, one on each side; single snap closure at center-front with gold S-shaped ornament over; jacket is fitted at waist with two crescent seams; long sleeves with inner shoulder pads; two diagonal pockets at hips with lapels; lower hip length; lined in soft white synthetic.
B) Pencil skirt of black wool with 4 panels and 1” waistband with diagonal snap closure at left back side; left back zip closure; 6” slit at front right; 24” length; lined in black synthetic. Size 38
Designer's label: "Thierry Mugler / Paris" "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286916/
Dress of bright lime green wool. Knee-lenght and sleeveless, with a high neckline ornamented with 6 rows of topstitching. Empire waisted, with the lower portion of dress split into four long panels, scalloped to form petals with quilted, topstitched edges. Center back zipper with two hook & eyes. Upper portion of dress lined in lime colored acetate.
Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York"
Retailer's label beneath designer's label: "Marie Leavell" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286835/
- Shirt Dress
Shirt dress of brown cotton. Knee-length, with v-neckline and shirt-style collar and lapels. Center front opening with square snaps. Two patch pockets at bust with box pleat at center of each; pockets extend to waist seam; elbow-length sleeves with 2” cuff, and inner shoulder pads; skirt with two patch pockets at each side with pleats as upper pockets; pockets extend to hem. Size 42
With matching belt of brown cotton backed with leather; covered rhombus buckle has one elongated angle; 34 ½” length.
Designer's label: "Thierry Mugler / Activ" "Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286949/
- Evening Gown
Evening gown of brown silk. The full-length gown is strapless, with stitched horizontal pleats at left bodice; skirt wraps over toward the left and both crescent shaped sides are trimmed in a pleated ruffle flounce with a shorter ruffle flounce revealing the longer one; bound edges and hemline; lined in brown acetate; center-back zip closure.
Designer's label: "Liancarlo / Couture"
Retailer's label: "Neiman Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286816/
Hat of purple felt. Designed to appear as a beret, the hat has a low crown, folded and somewhat crushed, with parts extending out as a brim in front and a "wing" at side. No real brim, but the extensions of the crown simulate one. Curled around the "wing" is a band of metallic thread and beading braid. Unlined. With purple grosgrain inner hatband, and a black elastic cord to help secure hat to wearer's head.
Maker's label: "Parkridge / Exclusives"
Hat of light blue ostrich feathers. Designed on a circular under band of light blue velvet-covered wire, the hat is formed of a radiating spray of dyed ostrich feathers, with light blue netting extending out as a veil, and with two light blue ribbon loops with attached simulated tortoise-shell hairpins to secure hat to wearer's head. Unlined.
Designer's label: "Damozel / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286819/
Cap of ocher/dark yellow wool. Designed somewhat as a "watch cap", the hat has a high domed crown, which folds up at bottom to extends back upwards almost the entire height of the crown. Spaced top-stitching along upper edge. Unlined.
Designer's label inside: "Adolfo II / New York Paris"
- Evening Dress and Jacket Ensemble
A) Evening dress of white crocheted silk floral lace over ivory chiffon. The full-length strapless sheath dress has a body-skimming silhouette and a straight-line upper edge at bust trimmed with a band of ivory satin. Hemline dips at back, and creates a very slight train effect. Size 8
B) Jacket of double faced ivory silk satin with open-front and shawl collar which extends to waist-length hem. Long dolman sleeves extend to hem with gauntlet cuff with 2 ½” slit. Size 6
Designer's label: "Pamela Dennis / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286884/
Cloche of brown/rust/beige crochet. The cloche is of openwork crochet, with a high, domed crown, having a wide band at lower edge that is solid crochet. Unlined.
- Dress and Jacket Ensemble
Ensemble of burgundy crepe
a) Jacket is hip-length, and has round collar; bodice opens at center front, and has wide waistband that fastens with 2 self-buttons and loops. Gathered into waistband is peplum with circular ruffle; long sleeves are gathered at armhole have circular ruffles going down and around sleeves;
b) Dress is below-knee-lenght, and has low V-neck formed by wide shoulder straps which button to lower back of dress; set-in empire waistline; sleeveless; bias cut skirt; zipper at left side back.
Designer's label: "Ossie Clark / Paris" "Made in France"
Handwritten style label: "59115 - 38 - 97727/19.92" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286918/
- Evening Gown
Ballgown of olive/brown iridescent silk taffeta with all over Lesage embroidery of metallic thread, beads, small sequins, and green chenille yarn. Full length; round neck; long sleeves; center back zipper. Lined in copper colored organza.
Designer's label: "Pierre Balmain / Paris"
Style label under designer's label: "173666"
Accompanying gown, but not shown:
Stole of olive green silk; fringed ends.
Petticoat for dress. Under layers of very stiff olive netting. Inner support bodice of copper brown silk; extends below waist to knee to form underskirt. Back zipper. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286947/
Dress of green silk and hand beading. Bodice is green with netting ; V-neck; lace and beading detail on bodice. Strapless, with off-the-shoulder "cap sleeves" of black lace with green beaded floral motif; motif continues over full length skirt. Green sash attached to bodice. Side zipper closure.
Designer's label: "Michael Faircloth" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286938/
- Skirt Suit
Woman's skirt suit of grey-black twill wool with blue and creme yellow pinstripe.
a) Jacket has flat pointed collar with a rectangular insert yoke panel trimmed with four teal, olive and brown mottled plastic buttons. Center front opening with three same buttons and bound button holes. Bodice has 3 faux pocket flaps on right, increasing in size like a step pyramid. Long, one-piece set in sleeves sleeves with two elbow darts on both arms. Right arm has two rectangular, decorative fabric panels on right sleeve of jacket's fabric, with a single button and bound button hole each in the upper, outer corner. Lined in tan silk faille.
Designer's Label at center back collar: "Adrian/ in/British Samek Material"
(b) A-line skirt with CF and CB and side seams. Hemmed in navy blue hem tape, blind hem (slip) stitched on both sides. 3" hem. Four waist darts, with 1 3/8" waist band ending in arrow tip over left-side lapped zipper. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286814/
- Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of black English gabardine.
a) Jacket with parallel rows of scalloped seam details which angle from the center front neck and shoulders to the side seam to meet the back scalloped seams. Convertible collar. Long, two-piece sleeves with scallop seam detail from wrist to shoulder; underarm shaped with dart. Center front opening with three self covered buttons with bound buttonholes. Lined in black textured silk.
Designer's label at inside, right front buttonhole extension: "Adrian / Original"
Retailer's label at inside back neckline: " Neiman-Marcus"
b) Pencil skirt of same with center front scallop from hip to hem; last scallop is used for shaped vent. Lined in black textured silk. Lapped left-side zipper. Waistband overlap ends in a triangle. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286829/
Pantsuit of orange and ivory polyester double knit.
a) Blouse has Peter Pan collar and full yoke of ivory polyester. Orange knit fitted bodice has cap sleeves. Flares slightly below waist. Self fabric belt buckles around hips. Zipper CB.
Designer label removed.
b) Orange hip-hugger pants are straight legged, stopping above ankles. Overlapping hook and eye closure. Zipper CF. Entire suit is lined in white polysatin.
Designer's label at inside center back: "Courreges / Paris"
Label below designer's label: "Made in France 0"
Retailer's label: "Made in France / Exclusively for / Bonwit Teller" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286883/
- Wedding Dress
Wedding dress of hot pink net with shirred all-over appliques and rhinestones. Dress is a short sheath style with V-neck and long sleeves with full length train in back with pink satin bustle with pink silk flowers.
Has a matching headpiece with hot pink net veil, not photographed. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286837/
Dress of cashmere knit with motif in black, gray and pinks. Designer's signature of "Emilio" in the fabric print. Long sleeves; round, bateau neckline. Knee length. Center back zipper.
Designer's label at inside right back: "Emilio Pucci / Florence - Italy / Made in Italy"
Retailer's label on inside left back: "Neiman-Marcus / Trophy Room" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286787/
Straight cape of black long-hair monkey fur. Full length, no arm holes, arm slits nor sleeves and no collar. 5 heavy hook and eye closures down center front. Fully lined in black wool crepe-felted. Very heavy. Likely to be Columbus monkey.
Designer's label at right side at seam "Hattie Carnegie"
Retailer's label at back center top "Neiman-Marcus Dallas";
- Evening Dress
Short evening dress of silver lamé and sequined lace with ostrich feather skirt. Straight strapless bodice with drop waist. Lower skirt covered with vertical rows of beige feather boa. Lined in taupe silk.
With matching boa of ostrich feather with silver and gold Lurex thread.
Designer's label on inside back shoulder: "Victor Costa"
Style number tag under designer's label: "Style 7780 / Size 8" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286821/
Dress of bright red wool. Sleeveless; jewel neckline; knee length. Empire waist with inserted panel, quilted and top-stitched. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Kick pleat opening at center front seam. Lined in bright orange silk.
Designer's label at inside, back neckline: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286919/
Hat of open-work crocheted olive green straw. The high, somewhat conical crown is encircled at base by a band of green velvet ribbon. Sloping brim of same openwork crochet. Scattered over crown and trailing onto brim in places are applied artificial sprays of small white flowers with green leaves. Unlined. Inner green grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Designer's label: Ursula Hammil digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286937/
Hat of open-weave white raffia. The hat is designed with a high domed crown, which is encircled at base by a band of same material set with 5 diamond-shaped gold-colored metal buckles. The wide, floppy brim extends downwards, and is "waved". Hat is unlined.
Label inside hat: "Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286872/
- Cloche Hat
Cloche style hat of black felt with 2' flared brim. Hatband of 1" black grosgrain ribbon with simple bow in front. Unlined with black grosgrain inner headband.
Stamp on inside crown: "100% Wool / Starfire / Melange / Blend-Felt / Henry Pollak, Inc. / New York"
Retailer's label on inside headband: "Parkridge / Exclusives" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286858/
- Pillbox Hat
Pillbox style hat of black satin. Edge of crown wrapped in folds of same fabric. Inner headband of black grosgrain ribbon.
Retailer's label on inside headband: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286797/
Cap of navy felt with visor. Crown is formed of six wedges of fabric making a hexagon-shaped crown. Inner headband of black fabric with same fabric covering crown section seams. Unlined.
Union label on inside headband at back. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286931/
Beret style hat of crocheted black cording with golden flakes. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286808/
- Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black straw. The low, cylindrical crown of black woven straw has a flat top, slightly recessed, forming a ridge around outer edge.
Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286906/
Hat of grey/beige and off-white yarn. The crocheted hat, of cloche-style, has a conical crown flattened at top, and a hatband at base formed of a wide band of twisted off-white yarn passing through loops of grey/beige yarn. The hat has a small rolled brim. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286923/
Hat in hood style of tan angora with scattered large golden paillette sequins applied over the entire surface. Hat covers head and back of neck with panels that extend around to secure at center front under chin with one circular button and loop. Unlined.
Retailer's label sewn into right side panel: "Saks Fifth Avenue"
Price tag stapled to left side panel: "100" (1 dollar?)
Hat of navy straw. Domed crown and wide, floppy brim trimmed with white topstitching. Two large white silk flowers, leaves and stems as trim on crown. Hatpin with black, oval head. Unlined with navy grosgrain ribbon inner headband.
Retailer' label on inside crown: "Neiman-Marcus / Made to Order"
Tag on inside headband: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286839/
Turban style hat of black suede. Lined in white satin.
Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286855/
Pantsuit of black wool.
A) Jacket. Bolero-style cropped jacket has wide collar with soft edges and center front opening with no closure. Cut-away at front and with long sleeves, the jacket has inner shoulder pads and is fully lined in black silk satin.
B) Pants. Full-length, high-waisted, and with tapered legs, the pants have a satin waistband and inverted pleats at top of hips at front and back. Slit pockets at sides open along edge of a black satin stripe which runs length of leg at side. The pants have a side zipper and hook-and-eye closure.
Designer's label: "Yves Saint Laurent / Rive Gauche" "Made in / France" "Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286820/
Jacket of black, green, red, pink, and yellow flannel in a large, painterly plaid pattern. The jacket is just below hip-length, and has a round neckline and no collar. Center front closure has a zipper with a gold metal rose charm pull, matching the pulls of the zippers on the two diagonal slit pockets at hips. Long-sleeved, with three non-functional buttons at wrists, formed as coiled snakes/spirals of gold metal. The jacket has inner shoulder pads and is fully lined in black satin.
Designer's label: "Ungaro / Parallele / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286901/
- Evening Gown
Evening gown of black velvet. The strapless, full-length gown is tulip-style, with structured bodice and flaring skirt from just below hip. The interior is lined in acetate with skirt slip trimmed in 2 ruffles of fine net. Inside the bottom of the skirt are 2 under-skirts of ruffled fine net. Gown has a center-back zipper and hook-and-eye closure.
Designer's label at inside back: "Patricia Rhodes / PR"
Size label: "6"
Content/Care label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286838/
Evening ensemble of brown silk jersey and sequined appliques.
A) Dress. Sleeveless, the full-length sheath dress has 1” wide straps which are embellished with length-wise decorative top stitching. The dress has an empire waist, and a modified sweetheart neckline. The bust is covered with floral/leaf form appliques which are covered in translucent brown sequins and edged in gold metallic thread. Center back zipper closure from top to mid-back, and slit from center back lower hem upwards. Lined in brown polyester.
B) Jacket. The matching jacket is of bolero form, cropped short, with no collar and a slightly undulating neckline which continues along the edges of the center front opening, and the lower edge. Long sleeves have cuffs with same edging. The whole jacket is overlaid with floral/leaf form velvet appliques edged in metallic gold threading and covered with sequins in various shades of brown. Jacket has inner shoulder pads and is lined in brown polyester.
Designer's label: "Liancarlo / Couture"
Retailer's label: "Neiman Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286793/
- Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of brown wool.
A) Jacket, Lower-hip length, collarless, and with 3 button-and-loop closures at center-front. Long sleeves with slit and single button closure at wrists. Welt pockets at hips, and princess seams. Inner shoulder pads, and brown polyester lining.
B) Matching short skirt, with 1” waistband. Button tab and side zip closure. Waistband is lined with grosgrain ribbon, and the skirt is lined in brown polyester.
Designer's label: "Giorgio Armani / A Milano Borgonuovo 21" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286841/
Turban style hat of pale pink velvet with braided pink velvet around edge. Two iridescent rhinestone and faceted jewel pins trim front. Lined in pink net. Two combs at sides for securing hat to wearer's head.
Maker's label on inside back of hat: "An Original / Mr. Stanley / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286799/
Headpiece. Turban-like ring or headband of olive green rayon with a central horizontal band of twisted fabric with single large knot. Bordered all the way around at top and bottom by two layers of the same fabric, pleated and scalloped.
Designer's label sewn inside: "Zandra Rhodes / London", with hand-written notes: "100% Rayon / England". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286892/
- Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of pale olive green felt with multicolored pheasant feathers on the left front. Double rolls of same felt form edge of hat which cross at front where meets feather trim. Net veil on front. Two hatpins with heads of matching felt. Unlined with inner headband of light gray/green grosgrain ribbon.
Maker's label on inside inner headband: "Frances / Dallas, Texas"
Paper tag attached to inner headband at back of hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286831/
Headpiece. Turban-like ring or headband of olive green rayon. Pleated horizontally with a "cross-over" at front which is edged with pleated scallops of same fabric.
Label sewn inside: "Zandra Rhodes / London", with hand-written notes: "100% Rayon / England" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286850/
Hat of black wool felt with attached scarf of black jersey wool. Wide, slightly asymmetrical brim. Domed crown with narrow headband of same which crosses in back and trails to edge of brim. Unlined with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband.
Stamp on inside crown: "Made in Poland / Tally-Ho / Pollak Imp Ex Corp / 100% Wool"
Retailer's label on inside headband: "Saks Fifth Avenue" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286826/
- Evening Ensemble
Dress ensemble of white net lace embellished with silver bugle beads and tiny silver sequins, and beige silk chiffon:
A) Dress of beige silk. Bodice with round neckline and no sleeves, and 2" band at empire waistline; 9" upper portion of skirt of floral embroidered net accented with bugle beads and sequins with rows of scalloped bugle beads at bottom from which full-length beaded fringe falls to hem; skirt continues to full-length with vertical stripes of floral lace and silver bugle beads. 18" slit at center-front; center-back zip closure; fully backed with tan crepe.
Designer's label near waist inside dress: "by Alfred Bosand / New York".
B) Top of white net lace embellished with silver bugle beads and silver sequins; bust and long sleeves of vertical stripes of floral lace and silver bugle beads; lower portion and band collar of floral embroidered net accented with bugle beads and sequins with rows of scalloped bugle beads at top of scalloped collar, and below bust, separating the two sections; pull-over with elasticized waist and center-back snap closure; unlined except for band collar.
No label in top. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286944/
- Picture Hat
Picture style hat of black felt. Asymmetrical brim is wider on sides. Fringe of self as trim encircles crown and drapes across brim. Unlined with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head.
Designer's label: "John Fredericks Inc. / New York"
Tag at left of designer's label: "Made in America" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286784/
White leather mini-skirt with 4 applied black leather bands running horizontally around skirt. White leather suspenders attached at back, cross at back, and run over shoulders to fasten at circular white leather-covered buttons on waistband in front. Fully lined in white nylon. Shirt does not fit tight at waist.
Pictured with black knit turtle-neck top, long-sleeves.
Designer's label: "Courreges / Exclusively Designed in / Leather and Fabric for / Samuel Robert" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286823/
Hat of bright yellow straw in mushroom style. 1" crown and 5" brim (turned down). Yellow, white silk flowers and green leaves as trim around crown. Wire hair clips underneath. Unlined with yellow grosgrain ribbon inner headband.
Tag on inner headband: "Adjustable" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286783/
Calotte of off-white satin. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the low domed crown is covered with smooth off-white satin at front, ending in scalloped edges along front and sides with thin self piped edge with loops at upper points of the scallops; at rear, the hat has the same off-white satin folded, draped, and pleated, with a straight edge along the base. Interior of hat partly lined at front with an off-white damask/brocade fabric, the rest showing the net under-structure of the hat. Accompanied by two hatpins with oval heads covered with matching off-white satin.
Maker's label inside: "Edna Mye / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286930/
Headpiece of black satin. Headpiece formed as an openwork braided cylinder made of three thick black satin segments. Black grosgrain ribbon inner band, to which is sewn a brown plastic comb to help fasten hat to wearer's head.
No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286945/
Hat made of white stitched, quilted cotton. Crownless. Hat constructed of circular piece with tucks at left and right back. Interior wire support covered with matching grosgrain ribbon.
Maker's label: "Henrys / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286927/
Hat of red felt. Hat has a high, domed crown of smooth red felt. Around the base of the crown is a wide hatband made of a mosaic of various types and colors of feathers. At one side is a cluster of ostrich and spotted feathers forming a pom-pom, with one long curling brown striped extending up and back. The wide felt brim is somewhat asymmetrical, and curves down except for near the pom-pom, where it waves upwards. Inside, at base of crown, is red grosgrain ribbon band.
Sewn to the inner ribbon band are two labels. Designer's label: "Adolfo / New York Paris"; Retailer's label: "Amen Wardy / El Paso Texas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286869/