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UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Texas Fashion Collection
- Sling-Back Pumps
Pair of black patent leather sling back pumps. Designed with slightly pointed rounded peep toes, the vamps are composed of two triangular panels of leather which join at points on instep, the join a diamond-shape of leather with circular center hole. The peep toe and the throat edged in black grosgrain ribbon. The sides near the toe-box are cut low, and flair back into the sling-back strap, which has a small black rectangular buckle. Modified French heel is covered with same black patent leather, and tapers almost to a thick "spike" heel shape.
Designer's stamps inside shoes:
Left shoe: "Palter De Liso Inc. / New York City"
Both shoes: "Palter DeLiso / Dresden Last"
Retailer's label sewn into right shoe: "Neiman Marcus Co. Dallas / Fenwyn / Trade Mark Reg'd"
Handwritten maker's notation inside each shoe: "6 1/2 B / S 42947 / 1521-9BH ." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503730/
- Evening Dress
Evening dress of champagne peau de soie. Princess style. Sweetheart neckline in front, with small horizontal pleats at front left and right princess seaming at upper part of bust; back neckline is low and rounded. 1-1/2 inch wide shoulder straps that split in front to form an inverted Y, with horizontal band of same fabric at dividing point. Natural waist. Skirt is below knee length, at at hips has three almost horizontal bias folds which extend to from hip center back and join to form bow; lower sash ends of the bow attach to skirt to form "bustle drape", giving added fullness. Attached net petticoat gathered to taffeta yoke; back zipper.
Retailer's label at left side seam: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503759/
- Day Dress
Day dress of black, blue, gray and yellow nylon jersey knit. Elbow length, set-in sleeves are black with banded cuffs in gold, yellow, blue and black pattern. Rounded, banded neckline. Knee length. Natural waistline is slightly gathered at sides and back. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Unlined.
Signed "Paganne" in pattern of dress.
Designer's label at neckline to left of zipper: "Paganne Ltd. / by Gene Berk -8-"
Care label at neckline to right of zipper. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503787/
- Sling-Back Pumps
Pair of sling-back pumps of brown suede. Designed with somewhat "sided" toe - tapering along sides to a flattened curve at tip - the toes have a small triangular opening creating a peep toe. The toe-box has a 3/8" high platform, and is decorated with copper-colored stitching forming a grid set on the diagonal, the squares formed each containing a copper stud of either X or Circular shape. Throat of vamp cut to a gentle point. Plain sides sweep up to sling-back strap, which has small brown shaped buckle. The almost 3" high French heel is covered in the same brown suede.
Designer's stamps inside shoes:
Left shoe: "Palter De Liso Inc. / New York City"
Both shoes: "Palter DeLiso / Capri Last"
Retailer's label sewn into right shoe: "Neiman Marcus Co. Dallas / Fenwyn / Trade Mark Reg'd"
Handwritten maker's notation inside each shoe: "6 1/2 B / S6403 / 2410-2BW" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503782/
Coat of curly sheep or goat fur in shades of brown, white, and gray mixed. Standing collar, single breasted closure and pockets all of brown leather. Closure has 5 circular, brown buttons and bound buttonholes. Long set-in sleeves; midi length. Lined in brown satin(?).
Designer's label at right side seam: "Albert Alfus / New York"
Retailer's label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus"
At right side seam is union label: "Int Ladies Garment Workers Union, Union Made ILGWU 66460"
and size tag: "8" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503758/
Coat of leopard(?) and mink. Below-knee length coat of leopard fur, with long sleeves. The shawl collar, center front opening, lower hem, and cuffs of the sleeves are edged with black mink. Two slit pockets at front hips. Fully lined in dark cream silk(?) brocade with gold pattern similar to an Indian sari. Embroidered monogram at inside right: "MER".
Designer's label at inside back collar: "Ben Kahn" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503750/
- Cocktail Dress
Cocktail dress of dark navy blue silk satin. Strapless with fitted bodice. Open pleats over bust with mock bow and attached 14'' wide stole lined with silk organza which drapes over right shoulder and down back. Straight skirt with small inverted pleats at each hip bone, 23 1/2'' long from waist. Center back 24'' zipper closing with hook and eye at top and waist line. French netting, boned bustier with black grosgrain ribbon and hook & eye closure on inside. Skirt is lined to hip front and back with navy taffeta.
Designer's label at center front bottom of bustier: "Christian Dior Original / Made In U.S.A. / Christian Dior - New York, Inc. / Trademark"
Retailer's label to left of designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503786/
- Evening Dress
Evening dress, consisting of:.
A) Coat style dress in eggplant machine lace re-embroidered with Lurex chenille in wine and silver, accented with couched silver threads in a stylized floral and foliage motif. Semi-fitted bodice with moderate V-neckline. Wide spread collar with scalloped edges. Long, set-in sleeves. Scalloped center front opening secured with six tailored buttonholes and six squared, silver buttons. Natural waist seam with full, box pleated, knee-length skirt. Unlined.
B) Slip of heavy wine red silk satin. Knee-length. Fitted camisole top with flesh-tone spaghetti straps. Center back zipper with a single hook & eye at the neckline.
Designer's label inside left of center back: "Galanos"
Retailer's label inside right of center back: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503733/
Ballgown of dark, navy blue ribbed satin. Strapless. Center front opening with 14 self-covered buttons, top two nonfunctional, with bound buttonholes. At upper bust, to left and right of center front opening, are attached paired flaps of self fabric giving appearance of patch pockets with flaps. Skirt gathers at natural waist with full skirt. Gored panels to left and right of center back seam of skirt. Inner bodice of black net with boning and black grosgrain ribbon petersham; closes at center front with 9 hook & eyes. Unlined.
Designer's label at center back seam near hem: "Christian Dior - New York / Original / Trade Mark"
Hanging straps on bodice are embroidered "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503778/
- Cocktail Dress
Cocktail dress of champagne silk chiffon crepe with matching silk satin ribbon trim. High, rounded jewel neckline is trimmed with matching satin ribbon. Elbow length sleeves have satin ribbon and bow at edge. Below-knee length skirt gathers at natural waist with three layers of chiffon and underskirt of beige crepe. Center back opening with hook & eyes on outer layer of bodice and zipper on interior camisole that extends to skirt at waistline. Camisole exterior is matching champagne chiffon and is lined in flesh colored silk gauze with gauze spaghetti straps on shoulders. White grosgrain ribbon petersham with hook & eye.
Designer's label at left side seam: "Galanos"
Retailer's label at right side seam: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503735/
- Evening Dress
Evening dress of black silk crepe. Below-knee length; sleeveless, but cut to form a very slight cap sleeve effect just off shoulder. Semi-fitted tunic-like bodice with plunging V-neckline formed by wrap construction, the lapped center front closure with two hook & bar closures at waist. Surplus fabric in front and back gathers into the narrow waistband. Skirt appears tubular, and has scalloped front hem.
Designer's label at center back inside: "Halston"
Size label at back inside waist: "8"
Care label - dry clean only
Union label (1974-1990s style) digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503773/
Sweater of horizontal stripes of aqua blues cotton knit. V-neck of dark aqua 1" wide ribbed knit. Long sleeves with four bands attached to each other with open weave of dark blue, top band is dark blue, middle band is slightly lighter blue, and final two bands are lightest shade of blue. Torso constructed similar to sleeves, with dark blue panel across top of shoulders, slightly lighter blue across upper chest and back, lightest blue across bust and then from bust line to bottom hem. Bottom hem and cuffs 2.5" ribbed knit. Unlined.
Designer label at center back neck: "Couregges / Paris / Made in France" (with "AC" logo to right)
Extensive care label underneath designer label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503801/
- Man's Jacket
Man's jacket in Japanese ghee style. Black basket weave double-faced fabric of heavy cotton. Exterior with red and white accent stripes on shoulders running down the 3/4 length sleeves, and horizontally around lower part of coat. On collar, running down front are white Kanji characters. Center front opening with no fasteners. On back is single large Kanji character in white on red circle with white border. Design on inside is printed into fabric, of ladder, fire with smoke, and water running down.
Retailer's label inside: "Kimono Shop / Honolulu / Made in Japan"
Content/size label inside: "100% Cotton / Made in Japan / Small" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503731/
Wrap dress of red silk dupioni. The street-length neck has a deep V-neckline formed by the overlap of front opening, which has snap and hook & eyes closures from waist. The dress has very short, cap sleeves, slit pockets at side seams, and a slightly gathered set-in waistband. The dress is lined in red silk.
Designer's label at right opening waistline: "Halston"
With matching fabric tie belt, 6" x 6', with triangular ends.. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503743/
- Day Coat
Daytime coat of black wool for mourning wear. The princess-line shell of the coat falls to mid-calf with a scalloped hem, and has a high standing band collar lined with a gathered black silk ruffle. The ruffle is edged with two narrow bands of ruching and is embellished with cut-work backed in black silk, the cut-work edged with black grosgrain ribbon decorated with black beads and jet. From the center front of the collar, trailing black silk ribbon accents fall to knee-length, and four knee-length ribbons are finished with beaded tassels. The coat has full-length, shaped, slightly flared sleeves that gather into the armseye and are embellished with cut-work motifs and beading as the collar. The cuff edges are faced with box pleated bands of black silk ribbon. Center-front opening of coat with black wool placket facing from neck to waistline, and is secured with seven hook & eyes. Two more hook & eyes catch the front opening at mid-thigh and knee-level. The coat front and back are embellished with black silk backed cut-work and beading as the collar and sleeves. Fully lined in black silk. Black waist tie secured to lining. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503816/
Dress of white linen (cotton?), the fabric with alternating square of double weave, plain squares and a "waffle weave". Knee length; A-line silhouette. Triangular inserts at side seams gradually widening toward hemline. In-seam pocket at side seams. Jewel neckline. Shaped armhole with cap sleeves. Center back lapped zipper. Fully lined in white silk.
Designer label: "Rudy Gernreich"
Retailer label: "Neiman-Marcus / Trophy Room" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503813/
Box style jacket of brown suede. Wide pointed collar and lapels. Long sleeves. Asymmetrical closing at center front with large appliqued circle patch pocket at right front and 2 large metallic silver buttons with bound buttonholes. Closure reinforced with two large snaps on waistband. Four 12" ties at waist band with1-1/2" diameter suede circles at ends. Lined in brown synthetic fabric.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York / Made in France"
Retailer's label at right front opening: "Neiman-Marcus / Trophy Room"
Label at left shoulder: "Made in France (rest illegible)" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503791/
- Day Dress
Day dress of printed golden yellow silk patterned overall with purple, orange and red flowers, green leaves, and black dots. The knee-length dress has a jewel neckline and padded shoulders. The long sleeves have 3" zippered cuffs. The dress has a dropped waist with three-tier, knife pleated skirt. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Lined in yellow organza.
Designer's label at left underarm: "Galanos"
Retailer's label at right underarm: "I. Magnin"
Care label to right of retailer's label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503820/
- D'Orsay Pumps
Evening pumps of black suede and rhinestones. Designed as D'Orsay pumps with rounded toes and cut-away sides. The toebox is of openwork with peep-toe, set with tiny multicolored rhinestones bordering the cut-outs. The sides of the heels similarly decorated. The ankle straps with small gilt metal rectangular buckles set with matching stones. Thick, modified Parisian heel covered with black suede.
Stamped in right shoe: "Frank Brothers / Footwear inc. / New York"
Stamped in left shoe: "Sophistecrat" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503738/
Shoes of brown snakeskin and green reptile. Designed with a very slightly pointed toe, the peep-toe toe-box is made of two pieces, the inner piece of brown snakeskin, the outer piece of green reptile, both edged with plaited border of two leathers, the snakeskin overlapping the reptile, forming a point. The toe with thick platform, the sides of which with three horizontal bands of leathers, green lower reptile, center band of plaited leathers, the upper of brown reptile. Open sides, the sling back formed with openwork interlaced leathers, secured with small gilt metal rectangular buckle. The set-in French high heel is covered in brown snakeskin, with vertical plaited band of colored reptile leather running vertically along back edge.
Stamped in both shoes: "ce qui se porte" / Gainsbourough / 1128 Lincoln Road / Miami Beach, FLA. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503736/
- Chinese Ensemble - Jacket and Pants
Chinese ensemble of blue silk with multi-colored embroidery.consisting of:
A) Jacket/Bodice. Knee-length, A-line, standing collar, long sleeves with white cuffs embroidered with scenes of Chinese people in various situations. Center front opening with black frogs fastened with spherical gold buttons. Wide band at collar and part of front opening, and hem with embroidery of figures on brown ground. Field of jacket with large multi-colored embroidered flowers and butterflies.
B) Pants. Matching. Drawstring waist. Full-length, with matching embroidery, but only on lower legs. Cuffs with wide band of white embroidered with foliage and moths. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503775/
Jacket of Golden Spotted Seal fur with rounded collar and lapels; double breasted button accents with buttons of pearl grey circle set in gold metallic soft square; 4 fur covered belt loops, 2 on front and 2 on back, front belt loops are accented with self-buttons (right side button missing); two slit pockets at sides are lined in grey silk satin; long sleeves, pockets and jacket opening are trimmed in leather piping; 2 concealed metal hook and leather eye closures, one at bust and one at waist; fully lined in grey silk satin; hits at below hips.
Label inside coat: Expressly made for William Schmidt/ OSLO/ 1853.
With belt of black leather with oval, silver metal buckle; 2” width. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503795/
- Ensemble - Day Dress and Jacket
Ensemble of multi-color abstract/impressionistic foliage in green, orange, blue, lavender, and gold, consisting of:
a) Day dress in sheath style, sleeveless, with a wide, rounded neckline. Center back zipper, and fully lined in royal blue acetate.
Maker's tag towards bottom of zipper: "Order No. 2666 / Style 984 / Size 6 / Remarks"
b) Jacket. Reaching slightly below waist-length, the jacket has a wide rounded neckline and elbow length sleeves. The center front opening secures with 3 black crocheted buttons and bound buttonholes, supplemented with a large covered snap at neckline. Lined in navy acetate.
Designer's label under right armhole: "Tiffeau & Busch Ltd. / New York"
The ensemble’s fabric is a blend of 95% cotton and 5% rayon in a linen weave. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501303/
- Lounging Pajamas
Lounging Pantsuit/Pajamas ensemble of pink/orange, pink, black and white floral print satin consisting of:
A) Tunic-style top with deep V-neck. Waist-to-hip length, with modified kimono style full-length sleeves with no upper seam. Unlined.
Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Halston", with faint handwritten note "DUNN"
B) Pants to match. Full-length, with elastic waistband and center front zipper with hook & bar on waistband.
On left inside leg seam: "Professionally / Dry Clean only" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501289/
- Child's Ensemble
Child's dress ensemble of tan cotton with green and red/orange floral print consisting of:
A) Skirt. Full length; pleated. One-inch waistband of muslin. Right side slit pocket. Center back opening; closures missing. Bottom of inside hem lined in brown glazed cotton; balance of skirt unlined.
B) Bodice. Fitted with wide neckline; dropped shoulders. Neckline is trimmed with double row of fluted fabric of self. Short, puffed sleeves with caps trimmed with fluted fabric of same. V-shaped pleats in front. Center back opening closes with 9 hook & eyes. Lined in muslin.
C) Fichu. Triangular panels of decreasing size applied to look like pleats. Four-inch epaulets of same with self-covered buttons at ends. Seven self-covered buttons down center back seam with evidence of three missing buttons. Lined in brown glazed cotton. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501305/
- Cocktail Dress
Cocktail dress of white rayon jersey. Cocktail length. Strapless with attached scarf across right shoulder which falls down the back. Dress is constructed of two layers with the outer layer fully ruched. Left side zipper closure with hook & eye. Unlined with four internal white grosgrain petershams at zipper.
Designer's label at center back: "E Garnett / Italian Made / Imported Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501329/
- Child's Dress
Child's dress of navy blue calico with rose colored paisley print. Long sleeves with caps at shoulders. Empire waistline; full length. Standing collar trimmed with ivory lace. Center front opening with 6 circular brass, concave buttons with red painted centers decorated with silver circles and a star. Back panel in Watteau style and forms a small train. Upper part of dress lined in blue cotton with small white flowers. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501313/
- Child's Dress
Child's dress of tan flannel with front panel of brown velvet. Long sleeves with 3" cuff of brown velvet. Turndown collar of brown velvet with pointed ends and neckline trimmed in ivory lace; collar partially detaches on right and secures with a hook & eye. Patch pockets at sides of brown velvet. Front panel has 10 tortoise shell buttons to left of panel and right side opening of 11 matching buttons with barred buttonholes. Gored in back with six small pleats at bottom of back. Hem of garment has pleated 4-1/2" border of self trimmed with 1-1/2" band of brown velvet. Lined in tan cotton. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501353/
- Ensemble - Blouse, Skirt, Camisole
Ensemble of navy-blue and slightly lighter silk organza composed of vertical hand-faggoted bands of alternating shades of blue giving light and dark effect.
A) Blouse. Waist length with extending peplum to tuck under skirt. V-neckline, with collar of flat reveres with faggoted border. Short sleeves with turned-back cuffs. Center front opening with 4 self-covered buttons, a snap at the natural waistline, and 1 hook and loop and 5 hooks and eyes on peplum. The stripes and peplum are lined in pale gray organza, leaving the faggotted seams unlined. Underarm gussetts, with built-in pads.
B) Skirt. Street length, full skirt matching bodice, with alternating vertical stripes, narrow navy blue waistband with center front opening with 5 self-covered buttons, and one hook and eye and two hook and loops on waistband, and a large snap which matches to bodice. Lined as blouse, with cream organza lining the stripes, but the faggotted bands left open, and with an inner skirt attached at waist of same cream silk organza, and with inner petticoat with flounce of cream tulle which has separate closure with 9 hook-and-eyes.
Handwritten note on waistband "RH650 2P(?)"
C) Inner shell camisole/lining for blouse of cream silk. Sleeveless, waist length, with V-neckline and center front opening with 7 hook-and-eye closures. Fitted slightly raised waistline.
Designer's label at left side seam near hem: "Christian Dior / Paris" "Printemps-Ete 1953"; "Made in France"; 34419(?)
Handwritten label underneath designer's label: "58.889" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501324/
- Ensemble - Blouse, Skirt, Belt, Purse
Cocktail or dinner dress ensemble of pale blue/green satin brocade with design of acanthus and thistle/leaf in dark green and golden yellow, consisting of:
A) Blouse. Short sleeves with 2" rolled cuffs and shawl collar. Center front opening has 4 self-covered buttons above waist, and 6 hook-and-loops below waist on peplum for securing into skirt. Fitted seaming and pleats centered on waist. Unlined.
Label inside top at left side seam: "Made in France / Christian Dior / Paris" and stamped on label: "05456"
B) Skirt of matching brocade. The mid-length skirt is double box pleated from narrow waistband. Center back zipper with hook-and-eyes at waistband. Unlined.
C) Petticoat of ivory moiré satin. Mid-length, with narrow waistband. Center back zipper with hook-and-eye at waistband.
E) Belt of green silk-covered ivory leather with rectangular silk-covered buckle. (not in photographs)
D) Purse of green silk. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501316/
- Evening Dress
Evening dress of sea foam/mint green cotton crepe. The full-length sleeveless dress has wide straps with a wide, shallow, rounded neckline in front and a deep scoop in back. The bodice is fitted with bust darts and has an empire waist, into which the full skirt gathers. A 1” wide tie belt of same fabric embellishes the waistline. The dress has a center back closure, with hook and loop at top and zipper on bodice which continues under skirt as part of lining. The skirt has a snap closure at waist. The dress is lined in white, and the skirt has an inner white crepe sheath lining.
Designer's label at inside right bodice side seam: "Tassell"
Accompanied by a matching fabric stole in rectangular shape, 15" wide. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501355/
Semi-formal gown of ivory silk faille and light green taffeta. Below knee-length, the ivory silk faille bodice is sleeveless and has a jewel neckline . Arched princess seams from arm opening to dropped waistline are mirrored on back. Patch pockets cut on bias at hips. The light green taffeta skirt gathers to the ivory silk faille bodice at dropped waist, and has attached interior supporting structure of 5-1/2" and 17" tiers of stiffened synthetic organdy(?). The dress has a center back zipper with hook & eye and hook & eye with snap at skirt. Bodice lined in ivory synthetic fabric and skirt is lined cotton organdy.
Designer's label at left side seam: "Tassell"
Retailer's label at center back neckline: "Lou Lattimore / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501312/
- Summer Evening Dress
Summer evening dress of pink and white stripped cotton twill. Full length, with low, rounded/scooped neckline and short, slightly puffed sleeves. Empire waistline. Stripes on the bodice go from top right to lower left; stripes on the full skirt go from top left to lower right. Center back zipper with hook & loop at neckline and at waist. Bodice lined in self, skirt lined in white fine fabric.
Designer's label at inside back, near zipper: "Bill Blass / For / Maurice Rentner" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501352/
- Eveningn Dress
Evening dress of multi-layered yellow silk chiffon. The slim, full-length dress has a shallow, rounded neckline, and 3/4 length sleeves. The dress has a left side zipper and a 10" center back opening with 2 covered hook & eyes.
The dress consists of a complex layered structure. The innermost layer is of yellow silk from bust to hem, the middle layer of yellow chiffon, and the outer layer of yellow chiffon with hand painted stylized floral design of purple and teal roses with green sprays. The floral design is concentrated on center front of dress with one teal rose on upper right and single purple rose at bottom left of back.
Designer's label at left by zipper: "Galanos"
Retailer's label at right armhole: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501302/
- Cocktail Dress
Cocktail dress of yellow lace and organza.
The strapless, knee-length dress is of yellow inlay Spanish lace, with a slim line skirt that gathers at empire waist. It has a center back zipper with hook & eye closure at top. The bodice has a built-in corset-like support of boning and white net with white grosgrain ribbon waist band, the whole securing at back with 8 hook & eye closures. Lined in yellow silk.
A removable, wide band of pleated yellow organza with tapered ends embellished with matching lace appliqués attaches with hooks and eyes at the waist of the dress, giving the effect of a narrow stole.
The dress also has an accompanying very large matching yellow organza stole/wrap with matching lace appliqués at each end. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501375/
Burnoose-style cape of lavender wool flannel. Mid-skirt length front and back, rounded at bottom to be shorter on each side. Fitted at shoulders. Attached hood gathered around face by use of ribbon ties woven through satin bound buttonholes around border of hood (ribbon missing). Center front opening and hem are trimmed with wide band of pastel green cording in scroll design. Closure of matching satin ribbon ties at neckline. Lined in pastel green satin. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501296/
- Cocktail Ensemble - Dress and Jacket
Cocktail Ensemble of beige chiffon.
A) Cocktail dress. Short, knee-length or slightly longer, sleeveless dress with narrow straps. Rounded neckline with self ruffle edging. Chiffon of bodice is gathered at neckline, vertical at front, but rounding to horizontal at back. Skirt has knife-pleating from natural waistline to hips, the pleats opening from hips and falling softly to hem. Center back zipper closure on main dress, with series of 4 snap closures below waist on pleated outer skirt. The skirt portion is formed as a pleated overskirt of chiffon over an inner silk crepe inner sheath, which has a wide ruffle of crepe at hem.
Designer's label: "Christian Dior-New York Inc"
Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus".
B) Sheer jacket, short, almost cropped, of doubled chiffon with long sleeves and self-ruffle trim around edges of cuffs, neckline, center front opening and hem.
C) Belt for dress, leather covered on front with chiffon matching dress. Single hidden hook closure.
Stamped on back: "14", "Christian Dior / New York, Inc" and 382" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501369/
- Cocktail Dress
Cocktail dress of glitter-studded black chiffon.
A) Outer dress is sheer, knee-length, with rounded neckline, and sleeveless. The body of the dress is decorated with vertical rows of clusters of tiny circular mirrored dots, glued to fabric. Wide band at hem of same clusters of mirrors, formed as a repeating band of large roses. Center back opening with hook and eye at neckline and 7 hidden snaps.
B) Belt. Black satin belt with large rectangular rhinestone buckle.
C) Inner slip of black organza over fine black silk faille. Center back zipper and flesh-colored spaghetti straps.
Designer's label at center back seam near hem: "Christian Dior - New York Inc."
Retailer's label at same location: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501307/
- Ensemble - Jumper and Blouse
Ensemble consisting of:
A) Jumper of brown suede. Knee length. Square neckline. Each shoulder with single snap closure at top. Left side closure of 11 snaps from arm to hem. Lined in brown cotton.
Designer's label at center back: "Adolfo / New York"
B) Blouse of cotton twill in multicolored paisley on taupe background. Turndown collar with pointed ends. Center front opening with 7 white plastic buttons and vertical, barred buttonholes. Long, set-in sleeves with 2-1/2" cuffs having 2 matching buttons and barred buttonholes. Unlined.
Designer's label at center back neckline: " Adolfo / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501377/
Summer dress / Sundress of linen weave cotton in abstract floral design of black, yellow, red, white and green on purple background. Halter-style bodice and dirndl style skirt; midi length with slit up center front to thighs. Center back zipper with 2 hook & eyes. Side slit pockets. Lined in yellow crepe.
Designer's label at center back: "Donald Brooks" with handwritten style number(?) "825"
With kerchief of matching fabric. Triangular shape. Reverse side print is purple flowers on yellow background. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501342/
- Coat Dress
Coat dress of brown silk faille in "Ottoman" style. Knee or street length, with turndown collar and slight V neckline. Darts at bust for fit. Four button closures at center front with bound buttonholes, two above and two below waist/belt. Hook and eyes at waistline. Long sleeves with rolled cuffs and underarm gussets. In-seam pockets at sides. Flared skirt, pleated in back. Simulated "shirtwaist" decoration at front of skirt. Unlined.
Designer's label at inside back collar: "Made in / France"; "Autumne-Hiver 1952 / Christian Dior / Paris"; stamped: "2????" [mostly illegible], on label
With matching belt of brown suede. Self-covered buckle of narrow, vertical rectangles secures with hook and bar closure; 1-1/4" wide. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501300/
Capelet of black silk satin. The short cape is trimmed along hem with 3-1/2" band of pleated organza and band of jet beads. Standing neckline trimmed in pleated organza. Center front opening with closure of five hook & eyes, with bow of black silk satin moire with trailing ends attached to right side of opening at throat. Shoulder yoke bordered in tightly gathered narrow band of black organza. Bright purple moire silk lining. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501286/
Dress of red polyester silk knit printed in dark red with large abstract pattern of blossoms, leaves, etc. Street length or slightly longer. V-neckline at front with 3/4-length sleeves. Bodice insert with seaming at about natural waist forming a "cummerbund" shape. Skirt is gathered into waist at base of seamed area. Center back zipper with two hook-and-eye closures at back neckline. Torso and skirt lined in red polyester. Arms unlined.
Designer's label at inside back beside zipper: "Adele Simpson"
Care tag at inside right seam: "Dry / Clean / Only"
Union label at inside right seam: "BCTX / 697925" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501299/
- Ensemble - Cape, Blouse, and Skirt
Three-piece ensemble of navy blue wool tweed with white silk threads.
A) Cape. Falls below hips. Constructed with applied bands or plackets of self giving the appearance of pleats. No collar; rounded neckline with modified suspender self bands at neck that extend down to waist and secure to the pair of buttons on the waistband of the skirt. Padded shoulders. Lined in white satin.
Remains of label, mostly illegible, in pieces, covered with crepeline. "65-67 Champ ........ Paris"
B) Blouse of white satin. Collarless with piped, rounded, high neckline and string tie at front (decorative). Long, set-in sleeves gathered into cuffs with single button and tailored buttonhole at each cuff. Front with wide center and two narrow vertical pin-tucks. Center back closure with 7 circular shell/mother-of-pearl buttons and tailored buttonholes.
No labels in shirt.
C) Skirt. Street-length, A-line with 1-1/2 inch waistband. Two pairs of circular dark blue buttons on waistband for securing "suspenders". Left side zipper with four sets of hook-and-eyes (one missing). Simulated pleats, sewn down, with vertical strips of same fabric sewn to skirt giving illusion of further pleating. Unlined.
Label on waistband to left of zipper: "Made In France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501339/
- Coat and Pillbox Hat
A) Evening coat of forest green wool. Double breasted, with six large buttons having black faceted edges and green pearled centers, and bound buttonholes. Collarless, with black soutache braid outlining neckline and front opening. Loose fitting with very full, bell-shaped, elbow length sleeves pleated into dropped shoulders, faced with green wool part-way back into sleeve. Double welt, angled, slit pockets at sides. Lined in green silk.
Designer's label: "E Garnett / Italian Made / Imported Original"
B) Pillbox hat. Of matching forest green wool, the low, cylindrical crown is edged in double row of matching black soutache braid which crosses on right and is trimmed with small sphere covered in matching wool. Inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband, and black elasticized band for securing hat to wearer's head. Lined in black silk(?).
Designer's label: "E Garnett / Italian Made / Imported Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501367/
Coat of natural beige mohair wool. Below-knee length, with modified cape collar with rounded ends. Loose, unfitted lines. Single breasted, with three button closure at neckline and bound buttonholes. Sleeves are 3/4 length, large and intricately cut in an adaptation of the leg-o-mutton style with pleating at shoulder, and have pleat-form at wrist to create calla lily effect . Double welt angled side pockets. Lined in black jersey wool.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "E Garnett / Italian Made / Imported Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501318/
Ripple style waist-length cape of black wool felt with yoke of five rows of black satin ribbon and 6" middle tier of black lace. Ruffled stand-up collar of black silk gauze. Secures at center front neckline with two hook & eyes and ties of black satin ribbon. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501333/
- Ensemble - Coat and Dress
A) Coat of light brown leather printed with dark brown "squiggles". Full-length, double-breasted, with two vertical rows of three each circular brown plastic buttons and hidden snaps at top. Long raglan sleeves. Two patch pockets on front with decorative flaps. Lined in light brown silk(?).
Designer's label at inside back collar: "Adele Simpson", with written annotation "1008".
B) Dress with matching scarf, of light tan jersey with printed dark brown "squiggles" matching the rest of ensemble. Mid-length, sheath style. Roll collar with slit through which scarf threads. Long sleeves with cuffs having two hidden snaps each. Center back zipper with hook-and-eye at top. Lined in peach silk crepe(?). With wide belt of leather matching the coat, the square buckle covered in same leather.
Designer's label at inside back on left: "Adele Simpson".
Stamped on reverse of belt: "Z 1095" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501297/
- Suit - Jacket and Skirt
Suit of taupe wool consisting of:
A) Jacket. Single breasted with closure of two large, plastic, textured taupe colored buttons and bound buttonholes. Notched collar and long, set-in sleeves. Two pleated plackets at sides of waistline with bound openings create loops for belt. Lined in matching silk jacquard of "Christian Dior" pattern.
Designer's label at inside left opening: "Christian Dior-New York, Inc."
Evidence of removed label at center back neckline.
B) Skirt. Slightly A-lined with left side zipper and hook & eye. 1" waistband. Lined in rust colored silk crepe.
C) Self-covered belt with rectangular buckle. 1-1/2" wide.
Stamped on reverse: "16 Christian Dior / New York, Inc" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501360/
Capelet of dark brown to black plush, possibly silk and cotton, resembling seal fur. Rounded roll collar trimmed in brown soutache braid stitched with a line of purple thread and black glass or jet beads. Center front opening with hook & eye at neck. Trimmed in light brown with purple soutache braid and hexagonal prism, black glass beads. Collar and center front opening bound by black braid (appears to have been added after the original garment was made). Fully lined in a printed polished cotton (not original) of black with looping rope design and repeated fan shapes of pale blue, red, and cream. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501335/