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UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Texas Fashion Collection
- Picture Hat
Picture hat of natural straw. Low, shallow domed crown is encircled by a wreath of eight large magenta silk and velvet roses with green velvet leaves, all attached to a green velvet ribbon which ties at back with trailing ribbons. The wide, 5" brim turns downwards. Hat is unlined, with green grosgrain ribbon inner hatband.
Designer's label: "Edna Mye / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286817/
Hat of muted violet straw. Styled somewhat as a sailor hat, the 2 1/2" conical crown is flattened at top, and has slightly sloping sides. Encircling the base of the crown is a 3/4" wide hatband of twisted muted cerise pink and purple velvet ribbons. At front of crown is a cluster of four velvet roses, 2 violet, 2 cerise with green leaves. Mounted above the roses is a violet velvet wrapped stand-up ornament with small bow at top, slightly to left of center front crown. The 4" wide flat brim has a narrow magenta velvet rolled band on underside of the outer edge. The hat is unlined, with an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Designer's label: "3410 Oak Lawn / Bernie A. Cahn / Dallas, Tex" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286890/
Hat of black velvet. Soft cylindrical crown has a flattened top, and is encircled at base by a band of black grosgrain ribbon, tied into a bow at side and with trailing ends. Almost circular brim is split at right side, curves down somewhat, and is enhanced by concentric rows of top-stiching. The underside of the brim is lined in white.
Designer's label: "Betmar" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286863/
- Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of black English gabardine.
a) Jacket with parallel rows of scalloped seam details which angle from the center front neck and shoulders to the side seam to meet the back scalloped seams. Convertible collar. Long, two-piece sleeves with scallop seam detail from wrist to shoulder; underarm shaped with dart. Center front opening with three self covered buttons with bound buttonholes. Lined in black textured silk.
Designer's label at inside, right front buttonhole extension: "Adrian / Original"
Retailer's label at inside back neckline: " Neiman-Marcus"
b) Pencil skirt of same with center front scallop from hip to hem; last scallop is used for shaped vent. Lined in black textured silk. Lapped left-side zipper. Waistband overlap ends in a triangle. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286829/
- Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black velvet. The somewhat large, flat-topped crown is slightly conical, and with no decoration; it has an inner green grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286866/
- Cocktail Dress
Cocktail dress of black and pale pink acetate with black tulle lace over vest of bust and on trim of sleeves and hem; three-quarter length sleeves with gathering at shoulders, elasticized at forearms, and 4” lace trim; bodice has vest of pale pink acetate with over-layer of black tulle lace; scalloped, soft V-neckline; skirt of black acetate gathered into a satin ribbon at hem trimmed in scalloped lace; below knee-length; center-back zip closure.
Designer's label: "Pat Kerr / One / Cumberland Place / London" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286889/
- Shirt Dress
Shirt dress of black rayon, cotton, and acrylic; vest of bodice is of a leather-like open-check fabric with two slanted patch pockets at bust with box pleat at center and lapels; shirt collar with open-square notched lapel and snap placket down center-front with snap covers of black squares; elbow-length sleeves; skirt with two patch pockets at each side with pleats below lapel; knee-length. Size 42
With matching belt of black cotton backed with leather; covered rhombus buckle has one elongated angle; 34 ½” length.
Designer's label: "Thierry Mugler / Activ" "Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286896/
- Aviator's Cap Hat
Hat in the form of a black leather Aviator's Cap. The domed ovoid crown is made in six triangular sections, and has straps which extend down and buckle under the chin with two oval gilt metal links. The cap is lined with black satin, and has an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Designer's label: "Adolfo / New York Paris"
Retailer's Label: "Amen Wardy / El Paso Texas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286843/
- Pillbox Hat
Pillbox of beige linen. The low, cylindrical crown is plain, with slight "lapped" edge at bottom. Lined in a fabric with golden threads, edged with gold rickrack. Inner white grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Designer's label: "by Derrieux" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286882/
Hat of navy blue straw. The very shallow crown is slightly domed, and surmounted by a large flat grosgrain ribbon bow. The wide brim curves down at outer edges, forming a deep curve. The whole rests on a hidden skull-cap crown with panel that extends down and over the back and sides of head. The hat is overlaid with a dark blue net veil worked with circular areas. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286840/
- Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of light brown mink. The low, circular crown is made of mink tails arranged in a pinwheel design, radiating from center of the flat top of the crown. Lined in mesh and a brocade floral fabric. Inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband.
No labels in garment. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286801/
a) Dress of silk knit with orange, pink, lime, purple, white and black motif. Signature of designer "Emilio" in fabric pattern. Round, bateau neckline; elbow length sleeves. Below knee length.
Designer's label on inside back neckline: "Emilio Pucci / Florence - Italy / 100% Pure Silk / Made in Italy"
Retailer's label below designer's label: "Made in Italy Exclusively For / Saks Fifth Avenue"
Cleaning instructions and size tag at base of retailer's label.
b) Tie belt of same fabric. Fringe of clear blue beads on ends. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286867/
Hat of off-white straw embroidery. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot") with shaped close crown of off-white straw embroidered with several rosettes of straw, connected by a field of straw. The shaped outer edge is wound with the same straw. The hat is unlined, allowing the underlying mesh to be seen. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" and origin label "Made In Italy". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286786/
Hat of black wool felt with attached scarf of black jersey wool. Wide, slightly asymmetrical brim. Domed crown with narrow headband of same which crosses in back and trails to edge of brim. Unlined with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband.
Stamp on inside crown: "Made in Poland / Tally-Ho / Pollak Imp Ex Corp / 100% Wool"
Retailer's label on inside headband: "Saks Fifth Avenue" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286826/
- Skirt Suit
Navy blue two-piece skirt suit of wool consisting of:
A. Fitted jacket with Peter Pan collar. Tab at top of jacket under neck extends two inches past center and buttons on left side with two round buttons. Jacket center opening has one hook at center and one button at waist. Full-length sleeves made in one piece with jacket front and back. Gusset under arm for ease of movement. Right sleeve is decorated with blue and grey stripe pattern which extends up sleeve and across onto tab. Vertical stripe starts from back waist and runs down front, forming plaid at shoulder and is gathered into a narrow band at waist. Stripe continues to hem of jacket and has fold of striped fabric coming from under band to form scarf-like effect. Back is made in 6 sections with plaid design at shoulder and stripes running horizontally and vertically and ending before the absolute center. Band at waist is continued on back right, but does not reach jacket center. Inside lined with blue silk.
Designer's label at center back inside neck: "Adrian / Original"
Retailer's label along left inside flap of opening: "The Fashion / Ben Wolfman Inc. / Houston"
Label for original owner(?): "TJ McBryde"
B: Blue straight skirt with hook and snap closure at left side of waistband and zipper fly. Grey stripe pattern starts at hip area and continues around skirt, not meeting at back center. Vertical stripes fall from right side, forming plaid at intersection of other stripe, and continues to hem. Front center has kick pleat. Skirt does not have label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283768/
- Cocktail Suit
Cocktail suit of black silk satin consisting of:
A) Waist-length jacket formed of vertically arranged heat-set pleats with five horizontal bands applied across the pleats. There is a panel of ivory/off-white silk extending from the neck of the jacket, forming the collar of the jacket and simulating the effect of a blouse being worn under the jacket. The long sleeves are also pleated, with single band near the base of the sleeves, from which extend ivory/off-white silk mock cuffs. Center front opening with three applied black bows on the lower three horizontal bands. The opening is secured with three hook-and-loop closures hidden by the bows. Lined in black silk.
Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Chanel"
Style number tag beneath designer's label: "10967"
B) Matching mid-length skirt of similarly pleated black silk, with a plain waistband and a single horizontal black silk band 2" below the waistband. Three hook-and-loops in the waistband, and four snaps along closure at left hip. Skirt has a single panel of organza lining in back, the rest of the skirt being unlined to allow more movement of the fabric. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283774/
- Skirt Suit
Woman's suit of brown wool gabardine.
a) Single breasted, jacket with rectangle motif carried throughout. Convertible collar with 3" points, and one under collar stop 2" from CF as shoulder yoke extends in a 2" wide rectangle parallel to collar edge. Shoulder yoke also extends to self-face the jacket, creating a 1"x 3" rectangle on the underside of the first bound button hold and button.
There are 4 brown buttons with three narrow bound button holes, the second button falling at bottom of rectangle yoke as a inseam button.
Pair of double welt slit pockets below shoulder within a rectangle of opposite grain within the larger rectangle in same grain as welt lips, with rectangle design lines extending over sleeve and top of it slip-stitched to mid-arm scythe.
Two parallel princess seams starting from lower rectangle yoke and front under arm seam run under 8" over-sized pocket flap, narrow to define width of 4" slit pocket. Over-sized bias pocket flap is 8" x 4" with 1 1/2" x 7" vertically center rectangle insert of opposite bias grain both starting from side seam.
Full length set in sleeves with one elbow dart at each under seam. At right sleeve's forearm starts a rectangle welt insert attached til 1 3/4" above cuff, where it floats above sleeve and continues as its own shape to cuff's edge and folds back 1" basted to itself. Lined in copper crepe silk.
Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Adrian / in /British Samek Material"
(b) A-line skirt of matching fabric. One inch folded waistband with triangular tab at lapped left side zipper with snap at tip and 4 sets of hook & eyes on waistband. Two 4" darts on front and two 7" darts on back. Unlined with pinked seam edges. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283765/
Ensemble of blue silk crepe with black and white print, consisting of:
A) Tunic top of silk crepe. Short, bat wing sleeves with insert of black, rectangular material at shoulder line. Mock V-neck opening backed with same material and ties of self. Center back zipper. Unlined.
Designer's label at back zipper: "Adrian / Original"
B) Skirt of same fabric. Straight; below knee-length. Black crepe waistband. Zipper closure with slit at hem line. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283764/
- Skirt Suit
Chanel-style woman's two piece suit with blouse.
a)Jacket of novelty knit slub in pink and blue ombre tone. Silk blend fabric. Styled with high, rounded extended neckline and center front opening with no method of closure. Padded shoulders. Long, fitted sleeves with one button mock slit closure at wrist. Button is goldtone, round, with half button incised lines. Short, straight bodice with two small patch pockets at hip with one button trim. Trimmed at all edges with blue and pink band. Partially lined with peach crepe at center front edge, and plain weave lining fabric at back.
Label: "Eres / Beverly Hills"
b) Skirt of matching color tones of slub yarn in plain weave. Silk blend fabric. Straight cut with fitted waistband. Deep slit at lower front seam. Trimmed at waistband with blue and pink band. Center back zipper closure with two hooks at waistband. Fully lined in peach crepe.
Label at waistband: "Eres / Beverly Hills"
Size tag: "8"
c) Blouse of blue silk with vertical stripes. Standing band collar with double ruffle and tie. Center front opening with seven square, glass buttons and hook & eye at collar. Long fitted sleeves with one button, ruffled band cuff. Straight hemline.
Label at neckline: "Eres / Beverly Hills" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283766/
- Skirt Suit
Two-piece skirt suit of tan, lightly striped, possibly synthetic material.
The jacket is a tailored shell with high rounded neckline and square spread collar. Full-length set-in sleeves. constructed in one piece with darts at the elbows. Center front closure from the neck to hip line with four bound buttonholes with corresponding brown tortoise shell buttons. Bound hip pockets with flaps. The jacket front is intricately pieced. Fully lined in light brown crepe.
Designer's label stitched along inside of right front opening: "Adrian / Original"
The skirt is narrow, knee-length, with knee-level kick pleat. The skirt is darted into a narrow waistband, and has a left side seam zipper closure from waist to hip line. Lapped closure with single hook&eye and hook&bar. Unlined with turned back hem. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283771/
- Skirt Suit
Suit of cream/blue/pink wool boucle.
A) Waist-length jacket with round neckline and no collar, two-piece set-in long sleeves, four patch pockets on front, and center-front opening with 5 circular sculptural lion-head gold-tone metal buttons. Matching non-functional buttons sewn on each pocket and on cuffs. Neckline, opening, cuffs, and top edges of pockets with rolled(?) edging. Fully lined in pink silk. Inside bottom hemline weighted with gold chain. No labels.
B) Skirt of same material. Below-knee-length. Slim, almost straight, flaring slightly to hem. Narrow waistband with two hook-and-eye closures, just above zipper closure. Lined in pink silk. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283772/
- Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of navy blue wool twill consisting of:
A) Hip-length jacket with full length tailored sleeves. Collarless neckline which raises 3/4". Single breasted with 3 tortoise buttons and slim bound button holes. Bib-shaped yoke insert with two almost vertical faux pocket flaps. Mid-arm design seams comes to inner top of lower hacking pocket flaps. Hacking pockets have vertical and slim bound buttons holes with one tortoise button for right flap and one turquoise button for left flap. Back inverted triangular yoke starts from shoulders with point ended at center back waist. Tailored sleeve split into upper and under sleeve, with two darts at elbow on under sleeve. Fully lined in (now) indigo crepe silk.
B) Skirt, pencil with seams at center front and back and both sides. 1 1/2" waist band with triangular tip comes to a lapped zipper on left side and 4 sets of hooks and one snap for closure. Two 2" darts on front and two 4" darts on back. 2" simple vent at CF hem, hem has been let down from original length by ~2", using 2" cotton bias tape. Skirt is unlined with pinked cut edges to finish seam inside.
Designer's label: "Adrian / in / British Samek Material"
Retailer's label: "The Fashion / Houston" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283767/
- Skirt Suit
Navy daytime tailored two-piece suit in British Samek wool.
a) Suit jacket of navy British Samek wool. Center front opening with three circular, blue plastic buttons; welted buttonholes button suit jacket. Padded shoulders. Two patch pockets. Notched collar with squared shoulder yoke with matching button attached to square insert. Lined in eggplant crepe.
Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Adrian / in / British Samek Material"
Tag above designer's label: "A. Herod, Sr."
b) Slim straight skirt of navy British Samek wool. Folded waistband of same. Center back zipper with snap and 4 hook and eyes on waistband. Lined in navy blue silk.
Tag on inside waistband: "A. Herod, Sr." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283769/
Ensemble consisting of:
A) Jacket of black and white gingham cotton check. Bracelet length sleeves. Side front opening with 7" button extension. On left side front, there are two large circular black plastic buttons at waist and one at top button at neckline flap closure; bound buttonholes. Peter pan collar starts at piping edge of left side front and right side front. Two flap welt pockets. Back with inverted box pleat which starts open at neckline and goes to 2" above waist where it is stitched together. Side back shoulders have flanges which are basted down at bottom.
Collar's, pockets', cuffs', front to back flanges hemline's and front opening's edges all bound in black satin bias tape. Lined in smaller cotton gingham check.
Designer's label at inside center back neckline: "Galanos"
B) Blouse of black and white, small gingham check. Center front opening with 2 (+ 1 missing) black circular plastic buttons supplemented with snaps and hook & eyes. Fitted, flared waist . Sleeveless. Collarless, slightly scooped neckline which forms a V in back. Neckline, sleeve openings and center front opening trimmed in black satin. Lined in fine white net.
Designer's label on inside left seam: "Galanos"
C) A-line skirt, street length, in black and white gingham cotton. Narrow waist of black grosgrain. Left side zipper. Lined in cream colored silk.
d) Contour belt covered in black and white gingham check. Square buckle covered in same. Three holes. Back in light tan leather.
Stamped: "Galanos Originals / Beverly Hills"
e) Hat of quilted black and white gingham check. Black satin headband ties in knot on right. Crown in smaller check than brim. Brim piped in black satin and slits at right beneath headband knot. Lined in alternating triangular sections of large and small gingham check.
Designer's label on inside hatband: "Galanos / 935 (handwritten)" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283773/
- Ensemble - Jacket and Dress
Ensemble of printed silk. This cocktail or dinner ensemble in the "New Look" consists of a dress and bolero-style jacket of printed floral ikat silk with a black ground and floral design in gray, browns and dark brown/mauve shades.
A) The dress is mid-calf-length, sleeveless, and with a boat neckline. Tailored to fit, with side bust and waist darts. Self fabric bow at top of waist gore which releases into a box pleat at the skirt. Slightly dropped waist. Under the sides of front box pleat edges are two knife pleats to create fullness, with darts for slimmer waist. On either side of front bock pleat is a small 1"intake pleat to balance fullness of skirt. Side seams have a lapping box pleat and an small triangular insert from front side seams. Back waist has 4 sets of box pleats, two on either side of center back zipper closure. The dress has built-in under-structure consisting of inner half-slip of off-white satin, and three layers of stiffened netting petticoats, all with horsehair braid at hem.
B) The matching jacket is of the same cloth, cropped short in the bolero style. The center-front opening has no closures and is collarless. Raglan style sleeves are tea elbow length. Under sleeve and sleeve cuff is slightly ruched creating a faux cuff look. It is fully lined in a brown silk organza. 4-way underarm gusset. Sewn into the hem are French weights.
There is no label in the dress. The jacket has a single designer's label: "Printemps-Ete 1956 / Christian Dior / Paris" which has stamped on it "80615". The "1956" appears embossed, not printed, and the black backing of the label is cut away behind the "1956". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283770/
Beret style hat of medium red simulated(?) reptile skin. Pieced crown of eight triangular panels and one half-round panel. Matching covered shank button at center of crown. Stiffened brim with twenty-four rows of horizontal burgundy topstitching. Burgundy grosgrain ribbon headband. Fully lined in gold metallic organza over white organza.
Retailer's label stitched at center of crown lining: "Neiman-Marcus / Made to Order". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283738/
Coat of deep pink and white plaid wool. Double breasted with six circular plastic deep pink buttons and covered buttonholes. Bracelet length sleeves; street length. Two front vertical single welt pockets. Half belt across back of same material with two circular plastic deep pink buttons and covered buttonholes at ends. Lined in deep pink silk.
Designer's label: "Balenciaga / 10, Avenue George V. Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283737/
- Toque Hat
Toque style hat of black fur felt with long, narrow black and white feather encrusted with rhinestones which drapes off the right side. End of feather is encased in same felt and protrudes through top of hat. Inner hatband of pink grosgrain ribbon. Unlined.
Designer's/retailer's label on inside headband: "Frank Olive / for / Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283709/
- Evening Dress
Ensemble consisting of jacket and skirt.
A) Jacket. The fitted black velvet jacket is encrusted with gold braid/ribbon in a lattice/trellis pattern over the entire surface, with added buttons, cabochons, beads, etc. lavishly sewn over the surface. The jacket has a no collar, and short capped sleeves. From the natural waist flares a peplum. The jacket has a center front closure of hooks-and-eyes. Unlined, it has built-in shoulder pads.
No label in jacket.
B) Straight skirt is full-length, of heavy black crepe. Center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at waistband.
Designer's label inside skirt at side seam: "Adrian / Custom", along with a second label, typed on white grosgrain ribbon, sewn in: "Neiman Marcus 417 / Size 12". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283753/
A) Dress of bright multicolor patterned translucent chiffon. The full-length dress has a straight, sheath shape, with a jewel neckline and long handkerchief-style sleeves which extend past hem and open at forearm. The sheath is two layers of fabric with the pattern skillfully aligned, while the sleeves are one. Centered zipper at center back, slip-stitched in, extending from neckline to just below waist, with a single hook-and-eye closure at neckline. Both layers are folded up into a 4" hem and blind hemmed in. Side seams are french-seamed, the arm scythe is a 1/4" hand-rolled seam, with the joining seam not at underarm, but the side back. Sleeve edges have a 1/8" narrow rolled hem. The CB seam was sewn with the wrong sides together, then the seam was turned right side out, encasing the raw edges, then the new edges were sewn at a 3/4" SA coming to a point right before the vent and the second layer acts as a facing. The printed pattern of the material includes concentric shapes with geometric and floral influences.
Designer label sewn inside back to left of zipper: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York"
B) Black thin satin ribbon belt with a snap and hook under permanent bow. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283727/
Hat of hot pink felt and artificial flowers. The low, cylindrical crown has a very shallow conical top, and a very narrow band of same felt around base, which ties at bow at back. The shallow brim, of the same felt, is slightly "wavy" at outer edge, and turns down slightly. Around the base of the crown, extending almost to, and in some cases past, the edge of the brim is a wreath of artificial flowers, pink roses, green and pink buds, etc., with green net veiling. Wreath covers front and sides of hat, leaving back uncovered. Hat is unlined, with a coral pink inner hatband of grosgrain ribbon.
Designer's label: "Lecie / Original"
Size label: "22" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283757/
Hatlet of dome of heavy black net with black velour bow on top. Figure-eight loops of black velour beneath bow and under netting form headband and provide support. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283749/
Hatlet of brown felt. Low domed crown of the hat is encircled by a wreath of artificial velvet roses and brown ostrich feathers, overlaid with brown net veiling. The hat is unlined, with inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband, and black cord to help secure hat to wearer's head.
Designer's label: "Suzy Lee / Made in / California" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283743/
- Wedding Dress
Wedding gown of ivory rayon satin with sweetheart neckline trimmed in a band of crimped rayon surrounded with pearl beads; fabric is gathered into seams below bust; long Juliet sleeves taper to wrist and have pointed end with satin button closure; pointed waistline with full-length skirt gathered into piped waistline; long train.
Accompanied by a beaded crown or circlet of white beaded flowers, and a veil of fine white tulle with half circle headband at crown. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283759/
- Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of red felt. The cylindrical crown is flat at top, and encircled by matching material gathered and scrunched to create horizontal wrinkles around the crown. Set off to front right side is rosette/spiral of red feather. Lined in a silvery/gold and black fabric, and with a red grosgrain inner hatband.
Maker's label inside: "Dolly Madison" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283740/
Dress of olive green knit with long raglan sleeves. V-neckline with right side panel wrapping over to left and ending at left-front side. Skirt has panel wrapping over to right and ending at right-front side and creating a flap. Lower mid-length. Center-back zip closure with single gold plated button closure at back neck band. Padded shoulders. Unlined.
Designer's label at back neckline: "Geoffrey Beene"
Union label, cleaning instructions and size tag together at center back seam towards hem. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283721/
Headband of black velvet with back veil. Black feathers at right side with 1 clear rhinestone at base of feather cluster.
Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283731/
Evening dress of silk crepe for summer. The full-length dress has an A-line skirt of cocoa brown silk crepe and attached belt with pendant strap at front left. The bodice is of cream silk crepe printed with a "trompe l'oeil" ribbon motif below the rounded neckline. Darts at sides. Long, bat-wing style tapered sleeves. Center-back snap closure. Unlined.
Designer's label: "Adrian / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283732/
Dress made of multiple fabrics including velvet, cotton, and silk in red, green, brown, blue, and orange multicolored floral and Indian prints, in a patchwork of vertical strips with metallic thread trim. Applied throughout are decorative metallic ovals. The dress is full length, with a flared skirt, long bell sleeves, and a low square neckline. Unlined. Zipper at center back extending from neckline to just below waist, with a single hook-and-loop at neckline.
Label sewn to inside back to left of zipper: "Sant'Angelo". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283760/
a) Dress of oatmeal colored silk with black polka dots. Six self covered buttons with covered buttonholes supplemented with snaps and hook & eyes at waist form front closure. Short, modified raglan sleeves. Bodice lined in oatmeal colored silk crepe. Gathered at hip line. Skirt supported with netting and lined in cream colored organza.
Designer's label at left inside seam: "Galanos"
Retailer's label at right inside seam: "Neiman-Marcus"
b) Matching belt in same. Belts at natural waist in large gap between buttons. Belt in two pieces; longer piece has self covered buckles at each end and smaller piece has 3 punch holes at each end. Leather backing in natural color.
Back stamped: "Galanos" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283718/
a) Dress of purple, gold and silver metallic threaded lace over purple polyester gauze lining. Round neckline with keyhole opening. Front closure with snaps and hook & eyes. Knee-length. Short sleeved and gathered waist. Lined in purple silk.
Designer's label at back neckline: "Oscar de La Renta"
Union label at base of front opening with size "10" label attached.
Retailer's label at hem: "Neiman-Marcus"
b) Belt of purple suede with leaf and pinwheel design painted in gold and silver. Double-tongued buckle. Backing of black leather.
Stamp on back of buckle: "10 237" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283702/
Hat of black raw silk. Pillbox style crown has spiral wrapped fabric of same on top. Three hair combs inside on black grosgrain ribbon headband. Lined in light gold fabric.
Retailer's label on inside crown: "Neiman-Marcus / Made to Order" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283716/
Hat of light beige fur felt. Domed crown with wide, folded brim. Two bows of self under the back rim. Headband of light gray grosgrain ribbon. Unlined.
Designer's label at inside headband: "Miss Dior / Created by / Christian Dior"
Stamp on inside crown: "Helios / Body Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283713/
Hat of rust wool felt with rolled, tubular shaped brim. Style sometime referred to as "bumper hat". Unlined with orange grosgrain headband.
Crown stamped: "100% Wool / 'Esccello' / Geo. W. Bollman & Co., Inc"
Designer's label on inside headband: "Frank's Girl / Designed by / Frank Olive / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283719/
Hat of mauve and burgundy velvet flowers with brown silk flowers at crown. Gold rhinestones accent the green velveteen leaves at brim and the silk flowers at crown. Lined in lace with cream colored grosgrain ribbon inner headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283728/
- Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of brown velvet. The cylindrical crown is flat at top, and has slight horizontal protruding "ribs" at sides. Lined in a cream satin-finish fabric, the hat has an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283750/
Tunic dress of silk chiffon with under dress of silk knit.
Tunic dress knee-length, with high-rounded neckline in front and deep, scooped, plunging neckline in back. Neckline edged with spaced large faux pearls. Long sleeves, and handkerchief hem. The tunic dress has overall-embellishment of white pearls, iridescent sequins, white seed pearls, silvered seed beads, bugle beads and crystal drops designed as New York skyline. Evidence that designer's label has been removed.
The under dress of white silk knit is ankle-length, with high rounded front neckline and cowl back neckline with horizontal ties and crystal pendants. Handkerchief hemline.
Designer's label at side seam: "Zandra Rhodes / London" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283754/
- Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of rose, blue and gold brocade. The ensemble consists of a jacket, skirt, and belt, all of the same "peacock eye" design brocade, of blue and gold on a rose pink ground.
The hip-length jacket is a tailored shell with round neck and set-in full-length sleeves. It has a full-length center front opening which secures with a series of five snaps covered in rose-colored chiffon. The neckline, opening, cuffs, and hem are trimmed with a two lines of dark rose silk cord embellished with spiraled lines of red, gold, and blue bugle beads. The lines are 6cm. apart. The jacket is fully lined in rose colored silk, and has built-in shoulder pads.
Sewn inside jacket at back collar is designer's label: "Givenchy", with a second label sewn underneath, which has a handwritten notation: "79461".
The matching fitted skirt is above-the-knee length, with a 3.5 cm. wide waistband into which the skirt gathers. Zipper closure at left side, with two large hook-and-eyes in waistband. The brocade is lined in white chiffon, and there is an inner lining/half-slip of dark rose colored silk. There are no labels in the skirt.
The belt is leather-backed, and faced with the same brocade. The rectangular pink and green rhinestone set buckle is non-functional, with a pair of hooks behind to catch in the metal-rimmed belt holes. There are no labels/marks on the belt. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283711/
Hat of black velvet and satin. Black satin oval skullcap with rolled black velvet brim. Fully lined in black satin. Black grosgrain ribbon headband. Narrow elastic chin strap.
Designer's label stitched at center back headband: "Givenchy / Houvelle Boutique" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283724/
Hat of finely woven off-white straw. Styled as a boater or "Pamela hat", the low domed crown is encircled at base by a wide band of off-white grosgrain ribbon with trailing ends at back right. The circular brim curves up at the outer edge. Unlined, the hat has an inner off-white grosgrain ribbon headband.
Label inside: "Marian Marcia / Exclusives" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283741/