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UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Texas Fashion Collection
Turban style hat of black suede. Lined in white satin.
Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286855/
Hat of burnt ochre fur felt with high crown. Wide floppy, asymmetrical brim with burnt ochre grosgrain ribbon hatband forming bow in back and row of crystal beads at base.
Crown stamped: "La Vienne / Imported Body / Made in Austria" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286848/
Hat of beige fabric, with close lines of top-stitching. Styled as a modified, enlarged version of a pillbox. The crown is soft sided, somewhat cylindrical and flattened at top. At front right is a bow of same fabric, with crossing ends. The crown rests on a slightly "tighter" inner band, which shows at lower edge. The hat is lined in pink grosgrain fabric, and has an inner hatband of green grosgrain ribbon.
Designer's label: "Emme Boutique" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286842/
Beret style hat of crocheted black cording with golden flakes. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286808/
Pantsuit of orange and ivory polyester double knit.
a) Blouse has Peter Pan collar and full yoke of ivory polyester. Orange knit fitted bodice has cap sleeves. Flares slightly below waist. Self fabric belt buckles around hips. Zipper CB.
Designer label removed.
b) Orange hip-hugger pants are straight legged, stopping above ankles. Overlapping hook and eye closure. Zipper CF. Entire suit is lined in white polysatin.
Designer's label at inside center back: "Courreges / Paris"
Label below designer's label: "Made in France 0"
Retailer's label: "Made in France / Exclusively for / Bonwit Teller" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286883/
- Picture Hat
Picture hat of off-white felt. The low, domed crown is open at top along a split from front to back, and is encircled and almost covered by wide bands of red, white, and blue horizontally striped grosgrain ribbon, with crossing and trailing ends at back. The wide brim curves downwards. Hat is unlined, with inner off-white grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Designer's label inside: "Sonnenfeld's / St. Louis" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286862/
Headpiece. Turban-like ring or headband of olive green rayon with a central horizontal band of twisted fabric with single large knot. Bordered all the way around at top and bottom by two layers of the same fabric, pleated and scalloped.
Designer's label sewn inside: "Zandra Rhodes / London", with hand-written notes: "100% Rayon / England". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286892/
- Skirt Suit
Woman's skirt suit of grey-black twill wool with blue and creme yellow pinstripe.
a) Jacket has flat pointed collar with a rectangular insert yoke panel trimmed with four teal, olive and brown mottled plastic buttons. Center front opening with three same buttons and bound button holes. Bodice has 3 faux pocket flaps on right, increasing in size like a step pyramid. Long, one-piece set in sleeves sleeves with two elbow darts on both arms. Right arm has two rectangular, decorative fabric panels on right sleeve of jacket's fabric, with a single button and bound button hole each in the upper, outer corner. Lined in tan silk faille.
Designer's Label at center back collar: "Adrian/ in/British Samek Material"
(b) A-line skirt with CF and CB and side seams. Hemmed in navy blue hem tape, blind hem (slip) stitched on both sides. 3" hem. Four waist darts, with 1 3/8" waist band ending in arrow tip over left-side lapped zipper. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286814/
Hat of open-weave white raffia. The hat is designed with a high domed crown, which is encircled at base by a band of same material set with 5 diamond-shaped gold-colored metal buckles. The wide, floppy brim extends downwards, and is "waved". Hat is unlined.
Label inside hat: "Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286872/
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286828/
Headpiece. Turban-like ring or headband of olive green rayon. Pleated horizontally with a "cross-over" at front which is edged with pleated scallops of same fabric.
Label sewn inside: "Zandra Rhodes / London", with hand-written notes: "100% Rayon / England" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286850/
Hat of off-white cord-work. Constructed on a stiffed base of off-white mesh, the crown is styled as a modified, over-sized pillbox, with a shallow domed shape. The crown is entirely covered in cord-work and knit ribbon of off-white, forming a dense ground. At top of crown is a finial composed of beige flattened spheroid shapes attached to cords. The hat is unlined, and has a beige grosgrain ribbon inner hatband, with two small plastic combs to help secure hat to wearer's head.
Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286854/
- Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of woven black/dark navy shiny straw. The low, cylindrical crown is woven to create horizontal ridges around hat. Inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Retailer's label: "Volk / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286811/
- Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of cream satin entirely covered with beading and rhinestones. The low, circular crown is covered in a ground of silver/white sequins with scattered fuchsia and clear rhinestones and light blue beads. At top of crown is central rosette with central fuchsia stone surrounded by a ring of clear stones.
Retailer's labels inside: "Neiman-Marcus / Made to order"; "Made in France for / Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286891/
Hat of tan taffeta. Pillbox style crown with topstitching that folds up sides to smooth top. Hatband of same tan taffeta. Lined in rose colored silk with inner headband of tan grosgrain ribbon. Comb for securing hat to wearer's head attached at inside back.
Handwritten label of white satin ribbon on inside crown: "Helen Kagan" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286898/
Hat of black fur felt. Pillbox style crown dips at sides. Edge of black satin and black ostrich feather trim on side. Two hatpins with black, oval heads (one broken). Inner headband of black grosgrain ribbon.
Retailer's label on inside headband: "Bonwit Teller"
Stamp on inside crown: "Mousse / Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286824/
- Cloche Hat
Cloche-like hat of brown felt velour. Brown grosgrain ribbon hatband forms double bow in front. Unlined with brown grosgrain ribbon inner headband.
Label on inside headband: "Genuine / Velour"
Union label to right of content label digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286852/
Hatlet of black velvet. The headpiece is formed as a stiffened black velvet band which has a large black velvet bow at each end.
Designer's label: "Martin Belasco"
Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286833/
- Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of brown wool.
A) Jacket, Lower-hip length, collarless, and with 3 button-and-loop closures at center-front. Long sleeves with slit and single button closure at wrists. Welt pockets at hips, and princess seams. Inner shoulder pads, and brown polyester lining.
B) Matching short skirt, with 1” waistband. Button tab and side zip closure. Waistband is lined with grosgrain ribbon, and the skirt is lined in brown polyester.
Designer's label: "Giorgio Armani / A Milano Borgonuovo 21" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286841/
Hat of navy straw. Domed crown and wide, floppy brim trimmed with white topstitching. Two large white silk flowers, leaves and stems as trim on crown. Hatpin with black, oval head. Unlined with navy grosgrain ribbon inner headband.
Retailer' label on inside crown: "Neiman-Marcus / Made to Order"
Tag on inside headband: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286839/
Cloche of brown/rust/beige crochet. The cloche is of openwork crochet, with a high, domed crown, having a wide band at lower edge that is solid crochet. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286865/
Dress of bright lime green wool. Knee-lenght and sleeveless, with a high neckline ornamented with 6 rows of topstitching. Empire waisted, with the lower portion of dress split into four long panels, scalloped to form petals with quilted, topstitched edges. Center back zipper with two hook & eyes. Upper portion of dress lined in lime colored acetate.
Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York"
Retailer's label beneath designer's label: "Marie Leavell" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286835/
- Picture Hat
Picture hat of muted orange/red straw. The low crown is sunken at edges and domed at center, and is encircled by a wide, gathered band of matching chiffon. The wide, somewhat floppy brim curves downwards and rolls under at edge. The hat is unlined, with a matching grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. It is accompanied by a single hatpin with a matching bead head.
Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286864/
- Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black and gray fine plaid. The cylindrical crown is flattened at top, and has sides with horizontal pleats of same material. At front of hat is a self-covered circular button. Lined with a gold damask/brocade fabric, trimmed with gold cord edging at inner edge.
Maker's label: "Henrys / Dallas"
Accompanied by one hatpin, the head covered with black cloth. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286894/
Hat of faux fur (Jaguar?). Constructed on a felt base, the conical crown has a flattened top, and is encircled by a wide band of black grosgrain ribbon. At front of hat ribbon is tied into a bow, and enhanced with a rhinestone-set spherical ornament. The wide brim curves down steeply. The hat is unlined, showing felt base, and has a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband.
Stamped inside the crown: "Imported Body / Made in Austria" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286805/
- Picture Hat
Picture hat of natural straw. Low, shallow domed crown is encircled by a wreath of eight large magenta silk and velvet roses with green velvet leaves, all attached to a green velvet ribbon which ties at back with trailing ribbons. The wide, 5" brim turns downwards. Hat is unlined, with green grosgrain ribbon inner hatband.
Designer's label: "Edna Mye / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286817/
Hat of muted violet straw. Styled somewhat as a sailor hat, the 2 1/2" conical crown is flattened at top, and has slightly sloping sides. Encircling the base of the crown is a 3/4" wide hatband of twisted muted cerise pink and purple velvet ribbons. At front of crown is a cluster of four velvet roses, 2 violet, 2 cerise with green leaves. Mounted above the roses is a violet velvet wrapped stand-up ornament with small bow at top, slightly to left of center front crown. The 4" wide flat brim has a narrow magenta velvet rolled band on underside of the outer edge. The hat is unlined, with an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Designer's label: "3410 Oak Lawn / Bernie A. Cahn / Dallas, Tex" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286890/
Hat of black velvet. Soft cylindrical crown has a flattened top, and is encircled at base by a band of black grosgrain ribbon, tied into a bow at side and with trailing ends. Almost circular brim is split at right side, curves down somewhat, and is enhanced by concentric rows of top-stiching. The underside of the brim is lined in white.
Designer's label: "Betmar" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286863/
- Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of black English gabardine.
a) Jacket with parallel rows of scalloped seam details which angle from the center front neck and shoulders to the side seam to meet the back scalloped seams. Convertible collar. Long, two-piece sleeves with scallop seam detail from wrist to shoulder; underarm shaped with dart. Center front opening with three self covered buttons with bound buttonholes. Lined in black textured silk.
Designer's label at inside, right front buttonhole extension: "Adrian / Original"
Retailer's label at inside back neckline: " Neiman-Marcus"
b) Pencil skirt of same with center front scallop from hip to hem; last scallop is used for shaped vent. Lined in black textured silk. Lapped left-side zipper. Waistband overlap ends in a triangle. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286829/
- Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black velvet. The somewhat large, flat-topped crown is slightly conical, and with no decoration; it has an inner green grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286866/
- Cocktail Dress
Cocktail dress of black and pale pink acetate with black tulle lace over vest of bust and on trim of sleeves and hem; three-quarter length sleeves with gathering at shoulders, elasticized at forearms, and 4” lace trim; bodice has vest of pale pink acetate with over-layer of black tulle lace; scalloped, soft V-neckline; skirt of black acetate gathered into a satin ribbon at hem trimmed in scalloped lace; below knee-length; center-back zip closure.
Designer's label: "Pat Kerr / One / Cumberland Place / London" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286889/
- Shirt Dress
Shirt dress of black rayon, cotton, and acrylic; vest of bodice is of a leather-like open-check fabric with two slanted patch pockets at bust with box pleat at center and lapels; shirt collar with open-square notched lapel and snap placket down center-front with snap covers of black squares; elbow-length sleeves; skirt with two patch pockets at each side with pleats below lapel; knee-length. Size 42
With matching belt of black cotton backed with leather; covered rhombus buckle has one elongated angle; 34 ½” length.
Designer's label: "Thierry Mugler / Activ" "Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286896/
- Aviator's Cap Hat
Hat in the form of a black leather Aviator's Cap. The domed ovoid crown is made in six triangular sections, and has straps which extend down and buckle under the chin with two oval gilt metal links. The cap is lined with black satin, and has an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Designer's label: "Adolfo / New York Paris"
Retailer's Label: "Amen Wardy / El Paso Texas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286843/
- Pillbox Hat
Pillbox of beige linen. The low, cylindrical crown is plain, with slight "lapped" edge at bottom. Lined in a fabric with golden threads, edged with gold rickrack. Inner white grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Designer's label: "by Derrieux" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286882/
Hat of navy blue straw. The very shallow crown is slightly domed, and surmounted by a large flat grosgrain ribbon bow. The wide brim curves down at outer edges, forming a deep curve. The whole rests on a hidden skull-cap crown with panel that extends down and over the back and sides of head. The hat is overlaid with a dark blue net veil worked with circular areas. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286840/
- Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of light brown mink. The low, circular crown is made of mink tails arranged in a pinwheel design, radiating from center of the flat top of the crown. Lined in mesh and a brocade floral fabric. Inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband.
No labels in garment. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286801/
a) Dress of silk knit with orange, pink, lime, purple, white and black motif. Signature of designer "Emilio" in fabric pattern. Round, bateau neckline; elbow length sleeves. Below knee length.
Designer's label on inside back neckline: "Emilio Pucci / Florence - Italy / 100% Pure Silk / Made in Italy"
Retailer's label below designer's label: "Made in Italy Exclusively For / Saks Fifth Avenue"
Cleaning instructions and size tag at base of retailer's label.
b) Tie belt of same fabric. Fringe of clear blue beads on ends. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286867/
Hat of off-white straw embroidery. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot") with shaped close crown of off-white straw embroidered with several rosettes of straw, connected by a field of straw. The shaped outer edge is wound with the same straw. The hat is unlined, allowing the underlying mesh to be seen. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" and origin label "Made In Italy". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286786/
Hat of black wool felt with attached scarf of black jersey wool. Wide, slightly asymmetrical brim. Domed crown with narrow headband of same which crosses in back and trails to edge of brim. Unlined with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband.
Stamp on inside crown: "Made in Poland / Tally-Ho / Pollak Imp Ex Corp / 100% Wool"
Retailer's label on inside headband: "Saks Fifth Avenue" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286826/
- Skirt Suit
Navy blue two-piece skirt suit of wool consisting of:
A. Fitted jacket with Peter Pan collar. Tab at top of jacket under neck extends two inches past center and buttons on left side with two round buttons. Jacket center opening has one hook at center and one button at waist. Full-length sleeves made in one piece with jacket front and back. Gusset under arm for ease of movement. Right sleeve is decorated with blue and grey stripe pattern which extends up sleeve and across onto tab. Vertical stripe starts from back waist and runs down front, forming plaid at shoulder and is gathered into a narrow band at waist. Stripe continues to hem of jacket and has fold of striped fabric coming from under band to form scarf-like effect. Back is made in 6 sections with plaid design at shoulder and stripes running horizontally and vertically and ending before the absolute center. Band at waist is continued on back right, but does not reach jacket center. Inside lined with blue silk.
Designer's label at center back inside neck: "Adrian / Original"
Retailer's label along left inside flap of opening: "The Fashion / Ben Wolfman Inc. / Houston"
Label for original owner(?): "TJ McBryde"
B: Blue straight skirt with hook and snap closure at left side of waistband and zipper fly. Grey stripe pattern starts at hip area and continues around skirt, not meeting at back center. Vertical stripes fall from right side, forming plaid at intersection of other stripe, and continues to hem. Front center has kick pleat. Skirt does not have label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283768/
- Cocktail Suit
Cocktail suit of black silk satin consisting of:
A) Waist-length jacket formed of vertically arranged heat-set pleats with five horizontal bands applied across the pleats. There is a panel of ivory/off-white silk extending from the neck of the jacket, forming the collar of the jacket and simulating the effect of a blouse being worn under the jacket. The long sleeves are also pleated, with single band near the base of the sleeves, from which extend ivory/off-white silk mock cuffs. Center front opening with three applied black bows on the lower three horizontal bands. The opening is secured with three hook-and-loop closures hidden by the bows. Lined in black silk.
Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Chanel"
Style number tag beneath designer's label: "10967"
B) Matching mid-length skirt of similarly pleated black silk, with a plain waistband and a single horizontal black silk band 2" below the waistband. Three hook-and-loops in the waistband, and four snaps along closure at left hip. Skirt has a single panel of organza lining in back, the rest of the skirt being unlined to allow more movement of the fabric. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283774/
- Skirt Suit
Woman's suit of brown wool gabardine.
a) Single breasted, jacket with rectangle motif carried throughout. Convertible collar with 3" points, and one under collar stop 2" from CF as shoulder yoke extends in a 2" wide rectangle parallel to collar edge. Shoulder yoke also extends to self-face the jacket, creating a 1"x 3" rectangle on the underside of the first bound button hold and button.
There are 4 brown buttons with three narrow bound button holes, the second button falling at bottom of rectangle yoke as a inseam button.
Pair of double welt slit pockets below shoulder within a rectangle of opposite grain within the larger rectangle in same grain as welt lips, with rectangle design lines extending over sleeve and top of it slip-stitched to mid-arm scythe.
Two parallel princess seams starting from lower rectangle yoke and front under arm seam run under 8" over-sized pocket flap, narrow to define width of 4" slit pocket. Over-sized bias pocket flap is 8" x 4" with 1 1/2" x 7" vertically center rectangle insert of opposite bias grain both starting from side seam.
Full length set in sleeves with one elbow dart at each under seam. At right sleeve's forearm starts a rectangle welt insert attached til 1 3/4" above cuff, where it floats above sleeve and continues as its own shape to cuff's edge and folds back 1" basted to itself. Lined in copper crepe silk.
Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Adrian / in /British Samek Material"
(b) A-line skirt of matching fabric. One inch folded waistband with triangular tab at lapped left side zipper with snap at tip and 4 sets of hook & eyes on waistband. Two 4" darts on front and two 7" darts on back. Unlined with pinked seam edges. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283765/
Ensemble of blue silk crepe with black and white print, consisting of:
A) Tunic top of silk crepe. Short, bat wing sleeves with insert of black, rectangular material at shoulder line. Mock V-neck opening backed with same material and ties of self. Center back zipper. Unlined.
Designer's label at back zipper: "Adrian / Original"
B) Skirt of same fabric. Straight; below knee-length. Black crepe waistband. Zipper closure with slit at hem line. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283764/
- Skirt Suit
Chanel-style woman's two piece suit with blouse.
a)Jacket of novelty knit slub in pink and blue ombre tone. Silk blend fabric. Styled with high, rounded extended neckline and center front opening with no method of closure. Padded shoulders. Long, fitted sleeves with one button mock slit closure at wrist. Button is goldtone, round, with half button incised lines. Short, straight bodice with two small patch pockets at hip with one button trim. Trimmed at all edges with blue and pink band. Partially lined with peach crepe at center front edge, and plain weave lining fabric at back.
Label: "Eres / Beverly Hills"
b) Skirt of matching color tones of slub yarn in plain weave. Silk blend fabric. Straight cut with fitted waistband. Deep slit at lower front seam. Trimmed at waistband with blue and pink band. Center back zipper closure with two hooks at waistband. Fully lined in peach crepe.
Label at waistband: "Eres / Beverly Hills"
Size tag: "8"
c) Blouse of blue silk with vertical stripes. Standing band collar with double ruffle and tie. Center front opening with seven square, glass buttons and hook & eye at collar. Long fitted sleeves with one button, ruffled band cuff. Straight hemline.
Label at neckline: "Eres / Beverly Hills" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283766/
- Skirt Suit
Two-piece skirt suit of tan, lightly striped, possibly synthetic material.
The jacket is a tailored shell with high rounded neckline and square spread collar. Full-length set-in sleeves. constructed in one piece with darts at the elbows. Center front closure from the neck to hip line with four bound buttonholes with corresponding brown tortoise shell buttons. Bound hip pockets with flaps. The jacket front is intricately pieced. Fully lined in light brown crepe.
Designer's label stitched along inside of right front opening: "Adrian / Original"
The skirt is narrow, knee-length, with knee-level kick pleat. The skirt is darted into a narrow waistband, and has a left side seam zipper closure from waist to hip line. Lapped closure with single hook&eye and hook&bar. Unlined with turned back hem. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283771/
- Skirt Suit
Suit of cream/blue/pink wool boucle.
A) Waist-length jacket with round neckline and no collar, two-piece set-in long sleeves, four patch pockets on front, and center-front opening with 5 circular sculptural lion-head gold-tone metal buttons. Matching non-functional buttons sewn on each pocket and on cuffs. Neckline, opening, cuffs, and top edges of pockets with rolled(?) edging. Fully lined in pink silk. Inside bottom hemline weighted with gold chain. No labels.
B) Skirt of same material. Below-knee-length. Slim, almost straight, flaring slightly to hem. Narrow waistband with two hook-and-eye closures, just above zipper closure. Lined in pink silk. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283772/
- Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of navy blue wool twill consisting of:
A) Hip-length jacket with full length tailored sleeves. Collarless neckline which raises 3/4". Single breasted with 3 tortoise buttons and slim bound button holes. Bib-shaped yoke insert with two almost vertical faux pocket flaps. Mid-arm design seams comes to inner top of lower hacking pocket flaps. Hacking pockets have vertical and slim bound buttons holes with one tortoise button for right flap and one turquoise button for left flap. Back inverted triangular yoke starts from shoulders with point ended at center back waist. Tailored sleeve split into upper and under sleeve, with two darts at elbow on under sleeve. Fully lined in (now) indigo crepe silk.
B) Skirt, pencil with seams at center front and back and both sides. 1 1/2" waist band with triangular tip comes to a lapped zipper on left side and 4 sets of hooks and one snap for closure. Two 2" darts on front and two 4" darts on back. 2" simple vent at CF hem, hem has been let down from original length by ~2", using 2" cotton bias tape. Skirt is unlined with pinked cut edges to finish seam inside.
Designer's label: "Adrian / in / British Samek Material"
Retailer's label: "The Fashion / Houston" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283767/
- Skirt Suit
Navy daytime tailored two-piece suit in British Samek wool.
a) Suit jacket of navy British Samek wool. Center front opening with three circular, blue plastic buttons; welted buttonholes button suit jacket. Padded shoulders. Two patch pockets. Notched collar with squared shoulder yoke with matching button attached to square insert. Lined in eggplant crepe.
Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Adrian / in / British Samek Material"
Tag above designer's label: "A. Herod, Sr."
b) Slim straight skirt of navy British Samek wool. Folded waistband of same. Center back zipper with snap and 4 hook and eyes on waistband. Lined in navy blue silk.
Tag on inside waistband: "A. Herod, Sr." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283769/
Ensemble consisting of:
A) Jacket of black and white gingham cotton check. Bracelet length sleeves. Side front opening with 7" button extension. On left side front, there are two large circular black plastic buttons at waist and one at top button at neckline flap closure; bound buttonholes. Peter pan collar starts at piping edge of left side front and right side front. Two flap welt pockets. Back with inverted box pleat which starts open at neckline and goes to 2" above waist where it is stitched together. Side back shoulders have flanges which are basted down at bottom.
Collar's, pockets', cuffs', front to back flanges hemline's and front opening's edges all bound in black satin bias tape. Lined in smaller cotton gingham check.
Designer's label at inside center back neckline: "Galanos"
B) Blouse of black and white, small gingham check. Center front opening with 2 (+ 1 missing) black circular plastic buttons supplemented with snaps and hook & eyes. Fitted, flared waist . Sleeveless. Collarless, slightly scooped neckline which forms a V in back. Neckline, sleeve openings and center front opening trimmed in black satin. Lined in fine white net.
Designer's label on inside left seam: "Galanos"
C) A-line skirt, street length, in black and white gingham cotton. Narrow waist of black grosgrain. Left side zipper. Lined in cream colored silk.
d) Contour belt covered in black and white gingham check. Square buckle covered in same. Three holes. Back in light tan leather.
Stamped: "Galanos Originals / Beverly Hills"
e) Hat of quilted black and white gingham check. Black satin headband ties in knot on right. Crown in smaller check than brim. Brim piped in black satin and slits at right beneath headband knot. Lined in alternating triangular sections of large and small gingham check.
Designer's label on inside hatband: "Galanos / 935 (handwritten)" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283773/
- Ensemble - Jacket and Dress
Ensemble of printed silk. This cocktail or dinner ensemble in the "New Look" consists of a dress and bolero-style jacket of printed floral ikat silk with a black ground and floral design in gray, browns and dark brown/mauve shades.
A) The dress is mid-calf-length, sleeveless, and with a boat neckline. Tailored to fit, with side bust and waist darts. Self fabric bow at top of waist gore which releases into a box pleat at the skirt. Slightly dropped waist. Under the sides of front box pleat edges are two knife pleats to create fullness, with darts for slimmer waist. On either side of front bock pleat is a small 1"intake pleat to balance fullness of skirt. Side seams have a lapping box pleat and an small triangular insert from front side seams. Back waist has 4 sets of box pleats, two on either side of center back zipper closure. The dress has built-in under-structure consisting of inner half-slip of off-white satin, and three layers of stiffened netting petticoats, all with horsehair braid at hem.
B) The matching jacket is of the same cloth, cropped short in the bolero style. The center-front opening has no closures and is collarless. Raglan style sleeves are tea elbow length. Under sleeve and sleeve cuff is slightly ruched creating a faux cuff look. It is fully lined in a brown silk organza. 4-way underarm gusset. Sewn into the hem are French weights.
There is no label in the dress. The jacket has a single designer's label: "Printemps-Ete 1956 / Christian Dior / Paris" which has stamped on it "80615". The "1956" appears embossed, not printed, and the black backing of the label is cut away behind the "1956". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283770/