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UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Texas Fashion Collection
Jacket of Golden Spotted Seal fur with rounded collar and lapels; double breasted button accents with buttons of pearl grey circle set in gold metallic soft square; 4 fur covered belt loops, 2 on front and 2 on back, front belt loops are accented with self-buttons (right side button missing); two slit pockets at sides are lined in grey silk satin; long sleeves, pockets and jacket opening are trimmed in leather piping; 2 concealed metal hook and leather eye closures, one at bust and one at waist; fully lined in grey silk satin; hits at below hips.
Label inside coat: Expressly made for William Schmidt/ OSLO/ 1853.
With belt of black leather with oval, silver metal buckle; 2” width. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503795/
Pumps of brown crocodile leather. The shoes have rounded toes and a vamp cut with a slight "V". Stitched upper edge. 2 1/5" high modified continental heel covered with same leather.
Stamped inside: "DeLiso Debs / Designed by / Palter Deliso" and "Deliso Debs / Demi / Last"
Stamped inside: "8XR 47707 29 / 1125 - 36" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503746/
Box jacket of navy blue wool with cutaway hem. Notched collar. Single-breasted with 5 button closure and tailored buttonholes. Welt pockets at left breast and at hips. Long, set-in sleeves with 3 smaller, non-functioning buttons at hem. Sleeves and back panel lined in black acetate.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Yohji Yamamoto"
Also has fiber content, size and cleaning instructions on designer's label.
Content/care label attached to inside hem of right pocket. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503792/
- Evening Dress
Evening dress of burgundy and purple chiffon. Asymmetrical, with right shoulder being strapless; left side shoulder strap closes with hook & eye. Floor length. Six layers of chiffon alternate between wine and burgundy. Hook and eye at shoulder; top two layers wrap around front and slopes high on left.
Designer's label: "Halston"
Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus"
Evidence of removed Union label
Evidence of removed label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503770/
Jacket of black wool twill. Three button single breasted fastening with tailored buttonholes; notched collar. Long sleeves which are wide at the elbow. Tails in back and asymmetrical front-left is cut shorter than right. Unlined.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Yohji Yamamoto; Fabrique Au Japon/Made in Japan; 100% Laine/100% Wool; Nettoyage A Sec Perchorethylene. Sechage Doux En Machine. Repasser Au Fer Doux.; Dryclean Perclorethylene. Tumble Warm. Warm Iron." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503789/
Box jacket of black wool with cutaway hem. Notched collar. Single-breasted with 5 button closure and tailored buttonholes. Welt pockets at left breast and at hips. Long, set-in sleeves with 3 smaller, non-functioning buttons at hem. Unlined.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Yohji Yamamoto"
Also has fiber content, size and cleaning instructions on designer's label.
Content/care label attached to inside hem of right pocket. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503747/
Flared skirt of beige cashmere knit. Floor length, 44" from waistband to bottom hem, 1.5" waistband of same. 6.5" lapped zipper at left side with hook & eye closure and covered snap. Unlined.
Designer's label at back center: "Halston"
Worn by singer Lena Horne (1917-2010). digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503761/
- At Home Ensemble
At Home Ensemble consisting of two pieces:
A) Bodysuit of bright green knitted silk jersey with over-length sleeves and legs. Center back lapped zipper closure from neckline to lower back, with one hook-and-eye closure at top of zipper.
Designer's label at inside left back, just beside zipper: "Rudi Gernreich".
B) Tunic/tabard formed of two long rectangular panels of black silk with white printed polka dots all over. Boat neckline with thin "straps" simulated at shoulders where panels meet. The panels are sewn at left side for 17 cm. below arm and open the rest of the length. On right side are three snaps and one hook-and-eye closure. Left shoulder sewn shut, right with one hook-and-eye closure. The panels are lined in shocking pink silk.
Designer's label at front inside, just below neckline: "Rudi Gernreich"
Retailer's label at back inside, just below neckline: "Neiman-Marcus / Trophy Room" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503744/
- Opera Coat
Opera coat of black velour with ecru floss embroidery. Rows of embroidery are embellished with knots and outside edges of rows are knotted with 1-1/2" loops of embroidery floss. Opera coat is full length, with long sleeves and center front opening with no closure. Lined in black satin.
No labels in garment. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503732/
Op art maxi dress. Full length multicolored printed silk. Top half from neckline to hips printed with horizontal black, red, yellow, and green stripes of varying thicknesses. Bottom half a repeating pattern of squares and circles in red, pink, yellow, green, blue, purple, and black. A large black square is printed center lower half. Hem is black. Printing is the same front and back. Center back zipper. Shoulder and bust darts. Fully lined with black silk. Round neckline.
Designer's label at inside back neckline; "Axel / of Denmark / 42"
Care and Content label at inside back neckline; "Pure silk / By D'este / Made in / Italy"
With accompanying belt of black Silk. Two inches wide. Two black silk covered round buttons on one end, two black thread button holes on other. Buttons are sewn with black thread. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503821/
- Ensemble - Day Dress and Jacket
Ensemble of multi-color abstract/impressionistic foliage in green, orange, blue, lavender, and gold, consisting of:
a) Day dress in sheath style, sleeveless, with a wide, rounded neckline. Center back zipper, and fully lined in royal blue acetate.
Maker's tag towards bottom of zipper: "Order No. 2666 / Style 984 / Size 6 / Remarks"
b) Jacket. Reaching slightly below waist-length, the jacket has a wide rounded neckline and elbow length sleeves. The center front opening secures with 3 black crocheted buttons and bound buttonholes, supplemented with a large covered snap at neckline. Lined in navy acetate.
Designer's label under right armhole: "Tiffeau & Busch Ltd. / New York"
The ensemble’s fabric is a blend of 95% cotton and 5% rayon in a linen weave. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501303/
- Lounging Pajamas
Lounging Pantsuit/Pajamas ensemble of pink/orange, pink, black and white floral print satin consisting of:
A) Tunic-style top with deep V-neck. Waist-to-hip length, with modified kimono style full-length sleeves with no upper seam. Unlined.
Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Halston", with faint handwritten note "DUNN"
B) Pants to match. Full-length, with elastic waistband and center front zipper with hook & bar on waistband.
On left inside leg seam: "Professionally / Dry Clean only" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501289/
- Child's Ensemble
Child's dress ensemble of tan cotton with green and red/orange floral print consisting of:
A) Skirt. Full length; pleated. One-inch waistband of muslin. Right side slit pocket. Center back opening; closures missing. Bottom of inside hem lined in brown glazed cotton; balance of skirt unlined.
B) Bodice. Fitted with wide neckline; dropped shoulders. Neckline is trimmed with double row of fluted fabric of self. Short, puffed sleeves with caps trimmed with fluted fabric of same. V-shaped pleats in front. Center back opening closes with 9 hook & eyes. Lined in muslin.
C) Fichu. Triangular panels of decreasing size applied to look like pleats. Four-inch epaulets of same with self-covered buttons at ends. Seven self-covered buttons down center back seam with evidence of three missing buttons. Lined in brown glazed cotton. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501305/
- Cocktail Dress
Cocktail dress of white rayon jersey. Cocktail length. Strapless with attached scarf across right shoulder which falls down the back. Dress is constructed of two layers with the outer layer fully ruched. Left side zipper closure with hook & eye. Unlined with four internal white grosgrain petershams at zipper.
Designer's label at center back: "E Garnett / Italian Made / Imported Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501329/
- Child's Dress
Child's dress of navy blue calico with rose colored paisley print. Long sleeves with caps at shoulders. Empire waistline; full length. Standing collar trimmed with ivory lace. Center front opening with 6 circular brass, concave buttons with red painted centers decorated with silver circles and a star. Back panel in Watteau style and forms a small train. Upper part of dress lined in blue cotton with small white flowers. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501313/
- Child's Dress
Child's dress of tan flannel with front panel of brown velvet. Long sleeves with 3" cuff of brown velvet. Turndown collar of brown velvet with pointed ends and neckline trimmed in ivory lace; collar partially detaches on right and secures with a hook & eye. Patch pockets at sides of brown velvet. Front panel has 10 tortoise shell buttons to left of panel and right side opening of 11 matching buttons with barred buttonholes. Gored in back with six small pleats at bottom of back. Hem of garment has pleated 4-1/2" border of self trimmed with 1-1/2" band of brown velvet. Lined in tan cotton. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501353/
- Ensemble - Blouse, Skirt, Camisole
Ensemble of navy-blue and slightly lighter silk organza composed of vertical hand-faggoted bands of alternating shades of blue giving light and dark effect.
A) Blouse. Waist length with extending peplum to tuck under skirt. V-neckline, with collar of flat reveres with faggoted border. Short sleeves with turned-back cuffs. Center front opening with 4 self-covered buttons, a snap at the natural waistline, and 1 hook and loop and 5 hooks and eyes on peplum. The stripes and peplum are lined in pale gray organza, leaving the faggotted seams unlined. Underarm gussetts, with built-in pads.
B) Skirt. Street length, full skirt matching bodice, with alternating vertical stripes, narrow navy blue waistband with center front opening with 5 self-covered buttons, and one hook and eye and two hook and loops on waistband, and a large snap which matches to bodice. Lined as blouse, with cream organza lining the stripes, but the faggotted bands left open, and with an inner skirt attached at waist of same cream silk organza, and with inner petticoat with flounce of cream tulle which has separate closure with 9 hook-and-eyes.
Handwritten note on waistband "RH650 2P(?)"
C) Inner shell camisole/lining for blouse of cream silk. Sleeveless, waist length, with V-neckline and center front opening with 7 hook-and-eye closures. Fitted slightly raised waistline.
Designer's label at left side seam near hem: "Christian Dior / Paris" "Printemps-Ete 1953"; "Made in France"; 34419(?)
Handwritten label underneath designer's label: "58.889" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501324/
- Ensemble - Blouse, Skirt, Belt, Purse
Cocktail or dinner dress ensemble of pale blue/green satin brocade with design of acanthus and thistle/leaf in dark green and golden yellow, consisting of:
A) Blouse. Short sleeves with 2" rolled cuffs and shawl collar. Center front opening has 4 self-covered buttons above waist, and 6 hook-and-loops below waist on peplum for securing into skirt. Fitted seaming and pleats centered on waist. Unlined.
Label inside top at left side seam: "Made in France / Christian Dior / Paris" and stamped on label: "05456"
B) Skirt of matching brocade. The mid-length skirt is double box pleated from narrow waistband. Center back zipper with hook-and-eyes at waistband. Unlined.
C) Petticoat of ivory moiré satin. Mid-length, with narrow waistband. Center back zipper with hook-and-eye at waistband.
E) Belt of green silk-covered ivory leather with rectangular silk-covered buckle. (not in photographs)
D) Purse of green silk. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501316/
- Evening Dress
Evening dress of sea foam/mint green cotton crepe. The full-length sleeveless dress has wide straps with a wide, shallow, rounded neckline in front and a deep scoop in back. The bodice is fitted with bust darts and has an empire waist, into which the full skirt gathers. A 1” wide tie belt of same fabric embellishes the waistline. The dress has a center back closure, with hook and loop at top and zipper on bodice which continues under skirt as part of lining. The skirt has a snap closure at waist. The dress is lined in white, and the skirt has an inner white crepe sheath lining.
Designer's label at inside right bodice side seam: "Tassell"
Accompanied by a matching fabric stole in rectangular shape, 15" wide. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501355/
Semi-formal gown of ivory silk faille and light green taffeta. Below knee-length, the ivory silk faille bodice is sleeveless and has a jewel neckline . Arched princess seams from arm opening to dropped waistline are mirrored on back. Patch pockets cut on bias at hips. The light green taffeta skirt gathers to the ivory silk faille bodice at dropped waist, and has attached interior supporting structure of 5-1/2" and 17" tiers of stiffened synthetic organdy(?). The dress has a center back zipper with hook & eye and hook & eye with snap at skirt. Bodice lined in ivory synthetic fabric and skirt is lined cotton organdy.
Designer's label at left side seam: "Tassell"
Retailer's label at center back neckline: "Lou Lattimore / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501312/
- Summer Evening Dress
Summer evening dress of pink and white stripped cotton twill. Full length, with low, rounded/scooped neckline and short, slightly puffed sleeves. Empire waistline. Stripes on the bodice go from top right to lower left; stripes on the full skirt go from top left to lower right. Center back zipper with hook & loop at neckline and at waist. Bodice lined in self, skirt lined in white fine fabric.
Designer's label at inside back, near zipper: "Bill Blass / For / Maurice Rentner" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501352/
- Cocktail Dress
Cocktail dress of yellow lace and organza.
The strapless, knee-length dress is of yellow inlay Spanish lace, with a slim line skirt that gathers at empire waist. It has a center back zipper with hook & eye closure at top. The bodice has a built-in corset-like support of boning and white net with white grosgrain ribbon waist band, the whole securing at back with 8 hook & eye closures. Lined in yellow silk.
A removable, wide band of pleated yellow organza with tapered ends embellished with matching lace appliqués attaches with hooks and eyes at the waist of the dress, giving the effect of a narrow stole.
The dress also has an accompanying very large matching yellow organza stole/wrap with matching lace appliqués at each end. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501375/
Burnoose-style cape of lavender wool flannel. Mid-skirt length front and back, rounded at bottom to be shorter on each side. Fitted at shoulders. Attached hood gathered around face by use of ribbon ties woven through satin bound buttonholes around border of hood (ribbon missing). Center front opening and hem are trimmed with wide band of pastel green cording in scroll design. Closure of matching satin ribbon ties at neckline. Lined in pastel green satin. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501296/
- Cocktail Ensemble - Dress and Jacket
Cocktail Ensemble of beige chiffon.
A) Cocktail dress. Short, knee-length or slightly longer, sleeveless dress with narrow straps. Rounded neckline with self ruffle edging. Chiffon of bodice is gathered at neckline, vertical at front, but rounding to horizontal at back. Skirt has knife-pleating from natural waistline to hips, the pleats opening from hips and falling softly to hem. Center back zipper closure on main dress, with series of 4 snap closures below waist on pleated outer skirt. The skirt portion is formed as a pleated overskirt of chiffon over an inner silk crepe inner sheath, which has a wide ruffle of crepe at hem.
Designer's label: "Christian Dior-New York Inc"
Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus".
B) Sheer jacket, short, almost cropped, of doubled chiffon with long sleeves and self-ruffle trim around edges of cuffs, neckline, center front opening and hem.
C) Belt for dress, leather covered on front with chiffon matching dress. Single hidden hook closure.
Stamped on back: "14", "Christian Dior / New York, Inc" and 382" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501369/
- Cocktail Dress
Cocktail dress of glitter-studded black chiffon.
A) Outer dress is sheer, knee-length, with rounded neckline, and sleeveless. The body of the dress is decorated with vertical rows of clusters of tiny circular mirrored dots, glued to fabric. Wide band at hem of same clusters of mirrors, formed as a repeating band of large roses. Center back opening with hook and eye at neckline and 7 hidden snaps.
B) Belt. Black satin belt with large rectangular rhinestone buckle.
C) Inner slip of black organza over fine black silk faille. Center back zipper and flesh-colored spaghetti straps.
Designer's label at center back seam near hem: "Christian Dior - New York Inc."
Retailer's label at same location: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501307/
- Ensemble - Jumper and Blouse
Ensemble consisting of:
A) Jumper of brown suede. Knee length. Square neckline. Each shoulder with single snap closure at top. Left side closure of 11 snaps from arm to hem. Lined in brown cotton.
Designer's label at center back: "Adolfo / New York"
B) Blouse of cotton twill in multicolored paisley on taupe background. Turndown collar with pointed ends. Center front opening with 7 white plastic buttons and vertical, barred buttonholes. Long, set-in sleeves with 2-1/2" cuffs having 2 matching buttons and barred buttonholes. Unlined.
Designer's label at center back neckline: " Adolfo / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501377/
Summer dress / Sundress of linen weave cotton in abstract floral design of black, yellow, red, white and green on purple background. Halter-style bodice and dirndl style skirt; midi length with slit up center front to thighs. Center back zipper with 2 hook & eyes. Side slit pockets. Lined in yellow crepe.
Designer's label at center back: "Donald Brooks" with handwritten style number(?) "825"
With kerchief of matching fabric. Triangular shape. Reverse side print is purple flowers on yellow background. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501342/
- Coat Dress
Coat dress of brown silk faille in "Ottoman" style. Knee or street length, with turndown collar and slight V neckline. Darts at bust for fit. Four button closures at center front with bound buttonholes, two above and two below waist/belt. Hook and eyes at waistline. Long sleeves with rolled cuffs and underarm gussets. In-seam pockets at sides. Flared skirt, pleated in back. Simulated "shirtwaist" decoration at front of skirt. Unlined.
Designer's label at inside back collar: "Made in / France"; "Autumne-Hiver 1952 / Christian Dior / Paris"; stamped: "2????" [mostly illegible], on label
With matching belt of brown suede. Self-covered buckle of narrow, vertical rectangles secures with hook and bar closure; 1-1/4" wide. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501300/
Capelet of black silk satin. The short cape is trimmed along hem with 3-1/2" band of pleated organza and band of jet beads. Standing neckline trimmed in pleated organza. Center front opening with closure of five hook & eyes, with bow of black silk satin moire with trailing ends attached to right side of opening at throat. Shoulder yoke bordered in tightly gathered narrow band of black organza. Bright purple moire silk lining. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501286/
Dress of red polyester silk knit printed in dark red with large abstract pattern of blossoms, leaves, etc. Street length or slightly longer. V-neckline at front with 3/4-length sleeves. Bodice insert with seaming at about natural waist forming a "cummerbund" shape. Skirt is gathered into waist at base of seamed area. Center back zipper with two hook-and-eye closures at back neckline. Torso and skirt lined in red polyester. Arms unlined.
Designer's label at inside back beside zipper: "Adele Simpson"
Care tag at inside right seam: "Dry / Clean / Only"
Union label at inside right seam: "BCTX / 697925" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501299/
- Ensemble - Cape, Blouse, and Skirt
Three-piece ensemble of navy blue wool tweed with white silk threads.
A) Cape. Falls below hips. Constructed with applied bands or plackets of self giving the appearance of pleats. No collar; rounded neckline with modified suspender self bands at neck that extend down to waist and secure to the pair of buttons on the waistband of the skirt. Padded shoulders. Lined in white satin.
Remains of label, mostly illegible, in pieces, covered with crepeline. "65-67 Champ ........ Paris"
B) Blouse of white satin. Collarless with piped, rounded, high neckline and string tie at front (decorative). Long, set-in sleeves gathered into cuffs with single button and tailored buttonhole at each cuff. Front with wide center and two narrow vertical pin-tucks. Center back closure with 7 circular shell/mother-of-pearl buttons and tailored buttonholes.
No labels in shirt.
C) Skirt. Street-length, A-line with 1-1/2 inch waistband. Two pairs of circular dark blue buttons on waistband for securing "suspenders". Left side zipper with four sets of hook-and-eyes (one missing). Simulated pleats, sewn down, with vertical strips of same fabric sewn to skirt giving illusion of further pleating. Unlined.
Label on waistband to left of zipper: "Made In France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501339/
- Coat and Pillbox Hat
A) Evening coat of forest green wool. Double breasted, with six large buttons having black faceted edges and green pearled centers, and bound buttonholes. Collarless, with black soutache braid outlining neckline and front opening. Loose fitting with very full, bell-shaped, elbow length sleeves pleated into dropped shoulders, faced with green wool part-way back into sleeve. Double welt, angled, slit pockets at sides. Lined in green silk.
Designer's label: "E Garnett / Italian Made / Imported Original"
B) Pillbox hat. Of matching forest green wool, the low, cylindrical crown is edged in double row of matching black soutache braid which crosses on right and is trimmed with small sphere covered in matching wool. Inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband, and black elasticized band for securing hat to wearer's head. Lined in black silk(?).
Designer's label: "E Garnett / Italian Made / Imported Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501367/
Coat of natural beige mohair wool. Below-knee length, with modified cape collar with rounded ends. Loose, unfitted lines. Single breasted, with three button closure at neckline and bound buttonholes. Sleeves are 3/4 length, large and intricately cut in an adaptation of the leg-o-mutton style with pleating at shoulder, and have pleat-form at wrist to create calla lily effect . Double welt angled side pockets. Lined in black jersey wool.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "E Garnett / Italian Made / Imported Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501318/
Ripple style waist-length cape of black wool felt with yoke of five rows of black satin ribbon and 6" middle tier of black lace. Ruffled stand-up collar of black silk gauze. Secures at center front neckline with two hook & eyes and ties of black satin ribbon. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501333/
- Ensemble - Coat and Dress
A) Coat of light brown leather printed with dark brown "squiggles". Full-length, double-breasted, with two vertical rows of three each circular brown plastic buttons and hidden snaps at top. Long raglan sleeves. Two patch pockets on front with decorative flaps. Lined in light brown silk(?).
Designer's label at inside back collar: "Adele Simpson", with written annotation "1008".
B) Dress with matching scarf, of light tan jersey with printed dark brown "squiggles" matching the rest of ensemble. Mid-length, sheath style. Roll collar with slit through which scarf threads. Long sleeves with cuffs having two hidden snaps each. Center back zipper with hook-and-eye at top. Lined in peach silk crepe(?). With wide belt of leather matching the coat, the square buckle covered in same leather.
Designer's label at inside back on left: "Adele Simpson".
Stamped on reverse of belt: "Z 1095" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501297/
- Suit - Jacket and Skirt
Suit of taupe wool consisting of:
A) Jacket. Single breasted with closure of two large, plastic, textured taupe colored buttons and bound buttonholes. Notched collar and long, set-in sleeves. Two pleated plackets at sides of waistline with bound openings create loops for belt. Lined in matching silk jacquard of "Christian Dior" pattern.
Designer's label at inside left opening: "Christian Dior-New York, Inc."
Evidence of removed label at center back neckline.
B) Skirt. Slightly A-lined with left side zipper and hook & eye. 1" waistband. Lined in rust colored silk crepe.
C) Self-covered belt with rectangular buckle. 1-1/2" wide.
Stamped on reverse: "16 Christian Dior / New York, Inc" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501360/
Capelet of dark brown to black plush, possibly silk and cotton, resembling seal fur. Rounded roll collar trimmed in brown soutache braid stitched with a line of purple thread and black glass or jet beads. Center front opening with hook & eye at neck. Trimmed in light brown with purple soutache braid and hexagonal prism, black glass beads. Collar and center front opening bound by black braid (appears to have been added after the original garment was made). Fully lined in a printed polished cotton (not original) of black with looping rope design and repeated fan shapes of pale blue, red, and cream. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501335/
- Cocktail Ensemble - Dress and Jacket
Cocktail ensemble of silver (pale lavender?) heavy faille moire consisting of:
A) Cocktail dress. 3/4 length. Sleeveless with thin straps. Shallow V-neck. Natural waist with a bias cut, 1-1/4" set-in waistband between skirt and bodice trimmed with a center, non-functioning gray plastic button. Fitted bust with gores at bust and under-arm. Inverted pleats at front and back center. Center back zipper closure with hook & eye closure at base of bodice. Cream satin lining in bust which descends to become sheath inside skirt. Skirt lined with net.
Designer's label at inside center bust: "Made in France / Autumne-Hiver 1952 / Christian Dior / Paris"
Stamped "20445" on label.
Handwritten label behind designer's label: "250516"
B) Matching bolero jacket. Cropped to waist, long sleeves. No collar. Slight V at top of neckline, with deeper "inset" V at bottom. Center front opening with 3 circular gray buttons at base of jacket. Lined in cream silk matching lining of dress.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Made in France / Autumne-Hiver 1952 / Christian Dior / Paris"
Stamped "20446" on label.
Handwritten label behind designer's label: "250517" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501348/
- Child's Dress
Child's "apron" dress of woven red and blue striped flannel with collar and one box pleat in front. Center front opening with snap at neckline. No belt - possibly missing. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501365/
- Sailor Jumpsuit
Jumpsuit of navy blue wool jersey. Designed as a "Sailor Suit", the one-piece garment is sleeveless, with sailor collar of white linen and large red bow of silk twill. Two patch pockets at lower front, and center front zipper. The attached web belt is of same fabric, and has a rectangular self covered buckle. The bodice is lined in navy silk. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501298/
- Hostess Ensemble
Hostess ensemble of cotton sateen in lime green floral and paisley print over navy background consisting of:
A) Top with bodice in modified halter style and long, flared bottom. Top extends below hips giving the appearance of a gathered skirt with empire waist. Left side zipper closure with hook & eye and 3 hook & eyes on left shoulder. Trimmed in navy braided tape around all outer edges and at seam of bodice. Lined in white organdy with white grosgrain ribbon petersham at gathered waist.
Designer's label at center back: "Geoffrey Beene".
B) Pants. Full length with flared bottoms. Center front zipper with hook & eye. Hem trimmed in matching navy braid.
Designer's label at center back: "Geoffrey Beene" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501374/
- Fringed Jacket
Jacket of dark brown sueded leather, with fringe. Hip-length jacket in "hippie style" has center front opening with 4 circular dark brown translucent buttons (one missing), patch pockets, long sleeves, and bands of long self fringe along arms, on bands across upper breast, at edges of patch pockets, along lower hem, and along back yoke. Lined in lavender acetate.
Maker's (Brand?) label at inside back collar: "México / Típico / Hecho en Mexico", stamped with blue "36" in upper right corner. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501343/
Cape made from an antique Japanese obi brocade of red, gold, orange, browns, etc. on a cream ground. Embroidery is of cranes, mums, and other flowers. The cape is mid-length, with one button and loop at neck and with "tie" of same material as an extension of standing collar. Center front opening. Box pleats at sides. Sleeveless, with flap-covered slits at center front sides for arms. Lined in ecru silk with inside slit pocket at left.
Label: "Kobayashi / Made in Tokyo Japan" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501373/
- Cocktail Dress
Cocktail dress of coral-red lace over cream silk. Coral net over cream silk, the net with coral lace overlay and appliqued with coral tape lace. Mid-length dress with high, slightly rounded neckline in front and deep V-neck in back. Cap sleeves. Skirt pleated at sides and back from waistline. Center back zipper closure with hooks and loops along length. Within and attached to dress by thin cords above waistline is inner slip/petticoat of two layers. Outside layer is cream colored organdy covering tulle netting. Inner layer is silk/satin with inner stiffening. Petticoat has cream colored grosgrain ribbon waist with 4 hook & eyes.
Designer's label on center back of petticoat: "Sarmi / New York"
Retailer's label at back of skirt below zipper: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501330/
- Cocktail Dress
Cocktail dress of gray silk jacquard with floral pattern of white daisies. Below knee length. Full skirt with two gores at front and two box pleats at center back. Cap sleeves. V-shaped neckline. Center back is V-shaped with zipper and hook & eye. Princess seaming. Pleat at shoulder joins bust darts and forms L-shape at natural waist and becomes tie at center front waist. Lined in light gray synthetic net with petersham of white grosgrain ribbon and hook & eye.
Designer's label on center back seam near hem: "Adele Simpson"
Retailer's label above designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501361/
Dress in sheath style of navy blue linen. Neckline is high and straight in front with wide, scooped back with 3/4" shoulder straps. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Lined in navy organdy.
Designer's label at center back seam near hem: "Christian Dior - New York, Inc."
Retailer's label at center back seam near hem: "Neiman-Marcus"
With accompanying stole, double sided with one side of matching navy linen and reverse of green linen. Open ends; 16" wide. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501344/
Dress in modified caftan style of navy blue silk and silk chiffon with butterfly print. Full length. Sleeveless silk under dress has matching butterfly pattern. Over dress of chiffon has long set-in sleeve on right and draped opening on left creating a toga-like effect. Hemline and draped sleeve bordered in 4" band of light aqua blue organza with under band of hot pink organza. Scooped back has center opening of 10 faux self-covered buttons and loops with closure of 5 covered snaps. Lined in navy jacquard rayon with "Hanae Mori" print.
Designer's label at inside back to left of zipper: "(Japanese characters) / Hanae Mori" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501290/
- Lounging Pajamas
Lounging pajamas outfit of mint green velvet consisting of:
A) Blouse with rounded neckline with center front "keyhole" slit which fastens at neckline with gold braid cord. Long sleeves with gathered, elastic cuffs. Neckline and lower hem edged with green and gold braid, with side slits at sides at hem forming rounded corners.
Designer's label: "Oscar de la Renta / At Home"
Size label: "6"
B) Pants of matching fabric, full-length, with wide legs and slightly flaring cuffs.
C) Tie belt of braided green and gold cord. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501380/
- Ensemble - Jacket and Pants
Ensemble in lavender ultra suede consisting of:
A) Jacket. Single breasted with center front opening of 8 small circular tan buttons. Below hip length; box style. Turndown collar with pointed ends. Long, set-in sleeves with 2-1/2" cuffs and matching button closure. Patch pockets at sides. Jacket is trimmed with three vertical rows of pin tucks at each side from shoulder to pockets. Unlined.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Mollie Parnis / a Skinner Ultra / Suede Fabric"
B) Pants. Wide cut, full length. Center front zipper with fly and 2 hook & eyes and snap on 1" waistband and waist tab which closes with matching button. Unlined.
Laundry instructions and union label to right of zipper.
C) Tie belt of self; 1-1/4" wide. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501328/
- Evening Dress
Evening Dress in a layered green floral print silk with white chrysanthemums and pink peonies. Dress consists of:
A) Over dress of silk chiffon. Full length. Elbow length, set-in sleeves with tied hems. Center front opening with collarless, piped neckline which closes with two covered snaps. Wide box pleat down center back.
Size "8" tag at center back neckline.
B) Under dress in slip style of matching silk. V-shaped neckline with 3/8" strapped shoulders that form a crisscross in back and secures in front with snaps. Center back zipper closure with hook & eye. Slits at side seams are 20" long. Lined in green rayon.
Designer's label at center back zipper: "(Japanese symbols) / Hanae Mori"
Size "8" tag at base of designer's label.
Retailer's tag above designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus"
Care/content label at center back neckline. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501326/