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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Decade: 1940-1949
Cocktail Ensemble - Bodice and Skirt

Cocktail Ensemble - Bodice and Skirt

Date: 1949
Creator: Leibert, Dorine
Description: Cocktail ensemble of mauve damask satin with woven pattern of small flowers consisting of: A) Bodice/top. Sleeveless, with 1" shoulder straps and 3" fold around neckline. Left side zipper opening from bottom to almost neckline. Unlined. B) Skirt, of matching fabric with scattered groups of "smoked"? sequins. Floor length, A-line, with wide, 3" waistband. Center back zipper. Unlined.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Blouse, Skirt, Belt, Purse

Ensemble - Blouse, Skirt, Belt, Purse

Date: 1949
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Cocktail or dinner dress ensemble of pale blue/green satin brocade with design of acanthus and thistle/leaf in dark green and golden yellow, consisting of: A) Blouse. Short sleeves with 2" rolled cuffs and shawl collar. Center front opening has 4 self-covered buttons above waist, and 6 hook-and-loops below waist on peplum for securing into skirt. Fitted seaming and pleats centered on waist. Unlined. Label inside top at left side seam: "Made in France / Christian Dior / Paris" and stamped on label: "05456" B) Skirt of matching brocade. The mid-length skirt is double box pleated from narrow waistband. Center back zipper with hook-and-eyes at waistband. Unlined. C) Petticoat of ivory moiré satin. Mid-length, with narrow waistband. Center back zipper with hook-and-eye at waistband. E) Belt of green silk-covered ivory leather with rectangular silk-covered buckle. (not in photographs) D) Purse of green silk.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Suit - Jacket and Skirt

Suit - Jacket and Skirt

Date: 1949
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Suit of taupe wool consisting of: A) Jacket. Single breasted with closure of two large, plastic, textured taupe colored buttons and bound buttonholes. Notched collar and long, set-in sleeves. Two pleated plackets at sides of waistline with bound openings create loops for belt. Lined in matching silk jacquard of "Christian Dior" pattern. Designer's label at inside left opening: "Christian Dior-New York, Inc." Evidence of removed label at center back neckline. B) Skirt. Slightly A-lined with left side zipper and hook & eye. 1" waistband. Lined in rust colored silk crepe. C) Self-covered belt with rectangular buckle. 1-1/2" wide. Stamped on reverse: "16 Christian Dior / New York, Inc"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Suit - Jacket and Skirt

Suit - Jacket and Skirt

Date: 1948
Creator: Dessès, Jean
Description: Suit (jacket and skirt) of dark brown wool consisting of: Jacket. Single breasted with notched lapel. The center front opening is slightly angled from top left to lower right and has three circular, dark brown, plastic buttons and tailored buttonholes. Long, set-in sleeves have three nonfunctional, smaller, matching buttons with tailored buttonholes at hem. Torso tapers to fitted, natural waist and flares to hips. Vertical, double welt, very shallow side pockets. Lapel, center front opening and hem of sleeves trimmed in thin, black piping. Princess seaming. Lightly padded shoulders. Lined in black silk jacquard with repeated "Jean Dessés" pattern. Skirt. Street length; slightly A-lined. Designed to appear as a wrapped skirt with diagonal opening from left hip to right side hem with five nonfunctional buttons matching jacket, and tailored buttonholes. At center front, from knee height to left side hem, is simulated opening backed by same fabric. Opening has black piping matching jacket. Left side zipper with two hook & eyes on narrow waistband. Lined in black silk, with exception of front panel.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Suit

Suit

Date: 1941/1949
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Late day three-piece suit of black velvet. a) Jacket in modified bolero style with squared bottom corners. Long sleeves with 5" wide cuffs of heavy, white, open cut lace. Lined in cream satin. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" b) Blouse of white linen. Sleeveless. Collar of 6-1/2" wide lace matching cuffs of jacket. Tie of black ribbed silk attaches to collar with hook & loops. Center front opening with 5 small, circular white pearl buttons and tailored buttonholes reinforced with a snap at the neckline and a hook & eye at the waistline. Half-inch pin tucked front. c) Skirt of black velvet. Slight A-line with a 4" purple silk satin cummerbund waistband. Waistband is reinforced with boning and black grosgrain petersham. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Lined in black silk crepe.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Petticoat

Petticoat

Date: 1945/1949
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Petticoat of maroon taffeta with two tiers of 1-3/4" black horsehair braid. One inch waistband. Center back opening closed with hook & eyes. Two curved panels at hips are gathered at the hem. Unlined, with 3-1/2" band of black stiffened net at interior hem line. Combined designer/retailer label on inside seam: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pouch - Turkish Festival Outfit

Pouch - Turkish Festival Outfit

Date: 1940/1960
Creator: unknown
Description: Pouch. Orange cotton pouch, rounded at bottom. Suspended by gold metallic cord. Edged with metallic thread lace. The surface of the pouch is embroidered with various colors of metallic embroidery, mostly chain-stitch. Lined in orange cotton.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoes - Turkish Festival Outfit

Shoes - Turkish Festival Outfit

Date: 1940/1960
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of shoes. Styled as low, backless slippers with upturned, pointed toes. Toe-box of striped cotton (silk?) with stripes of purple, yellow, orange, etc., with small diamonds of white. Stripes run from toe up to throat of shoe. The toe-box is edged in gold. Insole lined in orange. Soles of leather.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Daytime Dress

Daytime Dress

Date: 1944
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Daytime dress in modified shirtwaist/sheath style of black jersey wool. Sleeveless with padded shoulders and wide, notched collar. Street length. Center front opening with 6 large, clear, modified emerald cut rhinestone buttons and bound buttonholes. One-inch wide self fabric tie belt attached at sides. Small patch pockets at sides, below waist. Unlined. Combined retailer/designer's label at inside left seam near hem: "Neiman-Marcus dallas / Traina-Norell"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Ensemble

Cocktail Ensemble

Date: 1948
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Cocktail ensemble of heavy black silk faille, consisting of: A) Dress. Long dress, sleeveless, narrow straps, rounded neckline, higher in front. Slightly raised waist. Left side zipper. Very full skirt gathered into waist. Designer's label at inside skirt side seam: "Traina-Norell / New York" B) Jacket. Waist length jacket with rounded collar, short, highly puffed "pumpkin" sleeves which gather into shoulders. Center front opening with four black covered buttons. Flares from waist. Designer's label at inside back collar: "Traina-Norell / New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Ensemble

Cocktail Ensemble

Date: 1944
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Cocktail ensemble consisting of: A) Blouse of fuchsia wool jersey with long sleeves, banded neckline with placket down the center back, and 5 self-covered circular buttons. B) Skirt of black silk brocade, Dirndl style, below knee length, with center back opening having a zipper and 2 hook&eyes on waistband. Unlined. C) Belt of matching black silk brocade with matching fuchsia wool jersey on reverse. Square self-covered buckle. 2" wide. The blouse and belt with no labels or stamps. The skirt with combined Designer/Retailer label at side seam near hem: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Day Dress

Day Dress

Date: 1940/1945
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Daytime dress of navy blue silk crepe in modified shirtwaist style. Yoked shoulders with collar. Inner neckline has 7 small mother-of-pearl buttons for additional detachable collar to drape over existing collar. Center front opening with 6 large 1-1/4" mother of pearl buttons with vertical buttonholes. Long set-in sleeves with matching button at cuff. Evidence of smocking below waist seam, but threading is missing. Street length. Unlined. Designer's label at right seam near hem: "Traina-Norell / New York" b) Contour belt of navy leather. Wider at ends with rectangular buckle covered in same. Back stamped "14".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1945
Creator: unknown
Description: Hat of dark pink/mauve velvet. The low, domed crown is covered with large overlapping "petal" shapes of velvet arranged like scales, and has a large velvet rose/flower form at front of the same velvet petals. Lined in black fabric, and with black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Sanger Bros / Dallas Texas"; and origin/size label: "New York / Creation / 22"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1940~
Creator: Mye, Edna
Description: Hat of natural straw. Low domed crown and very wide brim. Tight weave with decorative open weave about 1.5 inches from brim. Around crown is a heavy gold braided ribbon set with spaced rhinestones and large rhinestone where ribbon diverts from crown. Ends of ribbon extend in back to hang off of brim. Off-white grosgrain ribbon inner hatband inside crown. Label sewn to inner ribbon band: "Edna Mye / Dallas". Marked inside crown of hat: "by Hawes"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte

Calotte

Date: 1942
Creator: Palma, Frank
Description: Calotte hat of brown felt. The calotte (also spelled "calot") is designed as a low domed crown of brown felt with a grid of brown (faux?) pearls spaced approximately one inch apart. One side of the hat is rounded, and the other side dips lower and ends with an arrow projecting away from the head at a ninety degree angle. Arrow covered with brown bugle beads on the front and unadorned on the back. Unlined, with inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer label sewn inside back: "Frank Palma" with image of needle, thread, and spool under the text
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1945
Creator: Bernays, Roberta
Description: Dark orange velvet hat. The shaped crown is roughly square with low peak at top center, constructed of four triangular panels, creating slight "corners" at sides. No brim. Lined in black satin. Accompanied by two hatpins, the heads covered with matching velvet. Designer's label inside: "Original / Roberta Bernays"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Dress

Cocktail Dress

Date: 1949
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: A) Cocktail dress of blue silk satin. Sleeveless with spaghetti straps of same. Set-in waist which scallops at bottom hem and attaches to panels of full skirt. Tea length. Left side zipper with hook & eye. Skirt lined in black tulle. Combined retailer/designer label at inside left seam near hem: "Neiman-Marcus dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Belt of same with rectangular, self covered buckle. 1/2 inch wide.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1945
Creator: unknown
Description: Hat of navy blue silk faille. Small brimless hat, formed with a very low domed crown. Lined in off-white organza(?), with deep edge of the faille extending up into the underside of the crown. With two small plastic combs to help secure it to wearer's head. No labels.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hatlet

Hatlet

Date: 1949/1959
Creator: Mye, Edna
Description: Hatlet of beaded hot pink satin. Brimless, the crown of the hat is shaped somewhat like a letter "K", the back of the K fitting across the head from ear to ear, while the arms extend to the back of the head. The whole is embellished with pink and gray/green beads, and with pink heart-shaped and teardrop shaped rhinestones. Lined in white and silver brocade, with small plastic comb affixed to center front inside edge to secure to wearer's head. Designer's label at center of inside crown: "Edna Mye / Dallas" Accompanied by two hatpins with heads covered in same hot pink satin.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1949
Creator: James, Leslie
Description: Hat of brown felt. The low, slightly domed crown is almost hidden by the upturned brim. At front facing of brim is large flat brown grosgrain ribbon bow. Around the base of the crown is affixed brown net veiling. The hat is unlined, with inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband. Combined designer's/retailer's label inside: "Leslie James / Designed for Sakowitz / Houston" Manufacturer's style stamp inside crown: "Midi / Imported Velour Body / Made in France"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1947/1954
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Black, rust and brown herringbone wool suit. a) Coat of black, brown and rust herringbone wool. Single breasted with three circular brown buttons with cut tops. Long, set-in sleeves. Brown fur collar. Yoked shoulders and box pleats at left and right sides and two pleats down the back. Lined in taupe silk satin. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Traina-Norell / New York" b) Skirt of black, brown and rust herringbone wool. Below knee length; A-line. Left side zipper with 2 hook & eyes on waistband. Lined in rust colored silk.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1943~
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Three-piece suit consisting of green wool jacket, skirt and red striped jersey blouse. A) Jacket of green twill wool. Single breasted with notched collar in red twill wool on exterior of collar extending down interior of front opening. Three self covered buttons and bound buttonholes. Mock flap pockets at sides trimmed with matching self covered buttons and red undersides. Long, set in sleeves with split opening at cuff closed with single, self covered button and bound buttonhole and lined on underside in red. Lined in red silk crepe. Designer's label on inside right: "Traina-Norell / New York" B) Skirt in green twill wool. A line; below knee length. White grosgrain ribbon waistband. Left side zipper. Unlined. C) Blouse in green and red striped jersey. Long sleeves. Narrow, rounded collar banded in matching fabric. Left side opening at neckline with 5 self covered buttons and bound buttonholes on 1-inch band of self. Fitted. Partially lined at back neckline in off-yellow organdy.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1945
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Skirt-suit of navy blue wool. A) Jcket. Cropped, fitted jacket with v-neckline and center-front opening with 5 self-covered circular buttons with bound buttonholes and two hidden snaps. Long sleeves, each with two self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes, and two hidden snaps. Lined in navy blue silk, and with internal shoulder pads. Combined Designer's/Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Skirt. Street-length flared skirt of 10 gores, with narrow waistband, left side zipper with two hook-and-eyes in waistband. Lined in navy blue silk.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1949
Creator: unknown
Description: Hat of dark beige and cream felt. Designed as a modified Breton hat, the low, domed crown of dark beige felt is encircled by a cream velvet tube through which are strung four large dark beige braided flower-head forms. The circular brim is turned up, forming a "wall" around the crown. The brim is overlaid with a narrow band of black lace net veiling, with scattered "fuzzies" on some of the intersections. The underside of the brim is lined in cream velvet. The crown is unlined, and there is a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Retailer's label inside: "Made to Order Hat / Bergdorf / Goodman / Fifth Ave at 58th St."
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design