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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Necklace - Uzbekistan - Surxondaryo Province - Boysun Peoples Festival Outfit
Bead Necklace. "Bib" style, with wide main portion of latticed clear beads overlaid with a field of shell/mother of pearl buttons. Vertical strands of beads along top, attaching to choker band with button clasp. The bib has a lower band of white, black, etc. openwork beading, then strands of beaded fringe in clear, green, yellow, blue, black, red, etc. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461881/
Boots - Uzbekistan - Surxondaryo Province - Boysun Peoples Festival Outfit
Boots. Red cotton(?) uppers embroidered with circular/sun designs and scrolls in green, yellow, red, blue, pink, white. Scattered silver "sequins" which are small strips of silver folded through fabric. Red leather soles. Edged in black. Lined in dark red leather. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461880/
Necklace - Turkmenistan Festival Outfit
Necklace. Green cloth necklace, edged with black cloth tape and embellished with spaced stamped silver roundels. Button/buttonhole clasp. The necklace supports a massive silver pendant formed as a large triangle set with oval red glass cabochons, between two silver "club" shapes. Below the triangle and clubs is a horizontal silver square tube set with oval red cabochons, below which are four large inverted stylized "fleur-dis-lys" forms, set with oval cabochons. From all lower parts hang long chains and large bells. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461847/
Necklace - Uzbekistan - Surxondaryo Province - Boysun Peoples Festival Outfit
Bead Necklace. "choker" style bead necklace composed of sections of orange and black horizontal strands interspersed with diamond-shaped motifs of white, orange, green, yellow, and reddish brown. Below the main section is a "fringe, consisting of white beads forming a narrow net, then bands of red and orange, then fringe of blue, yellow, black, white, red, green, and ending in shells, glass beads, etc. Large circular button clasp. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461789/
Toque
Toque hat of black fur felt. Trimmed with wide black (faux?) snakeskin belt with large round buckle covered in same. Unlined, with black grosgrain ribbon headband. Label sewn to headband: "Walker-Marr / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461825/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of multicolored satin printed with a design of feathers simulating a feather work mosaic. The low, cylindrical crown is flat at top, and has slightly sloping sides. Attached along sides and front is short black net veil. Hat is lined with black mesh, and has inner black ribbon hatband with two small combs to help secure hat to wearer's head. Combined Designer's/Retailer's label inside crown: "Volk / Chez Henriette / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461796/
Necklace - Turkmenistan Festival Outfit
Necklace. Bead necklace of red and blue glass(?) beads strung on white cord. From necklace, via 3 large loops, is suspended a large horizontal silver-colored tube, with bands of flattened/soldered wire decoration. From lower edge of tube hang pendants of flat silver shapes, some small rectangular, some larger "bird shaped", each set with a red or green stone. From these pendants hand further chains and oval plaques. Tube opens at one end, is empty. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461802/
Earrings - Kutchi Group, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan.
Earrings. Pair of heavy pendant earrings of silver-colored metal and glass. Bail loops suspend a roughly semi-circular silver plate with collet-set glass sapphires, emeralds, and rubies. From lower edge of plate are suspended small clusters of flat silver shapes and small spheres. Earrings do not match exactly. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461840/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox of purple velvet with top stitching. The flattened top of the low, cylindrical crown is composed of four triangular panels, each of which has parallel lines of top stitching which join to create a pyramidal effect. The sides of the crown have similar top stitching running in horizontal parallel lines. The hat is lined in black, with gray grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. A handsewn designer's (?) label is inside: "Inez". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461835/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox of gray fur felt. The low, cylindrical crown is flattened at top, with slight domed effect at center. The hat is unlined, with inner gray grosgrain ribbon hatband. Retailer's label sewn inside: "Neiman-Marcus". Stamped inside crown is origin label: "Body Made In France". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461764/
Necklace - Banjara Festival Attire
Necklace. Torc-style necklace of silver, twisted and with wire wrapping at ends. Rigid hook at front to connect ends, and with a single Indian 25 Paise coin mounted near each side of clasp, with pendant silver beads. Suspended from the ends, near the clasp, are two large triangular ornaments of silver openwork, from which are suspended short lengths of silver chain terminating in silver spheres. Coins date from 1982 and 1988. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461854/
Earrings - Banjara Festival Attire
Earrings. Pair of earrings for pierced ears. Each earring is composed of an inner and outer circular hoop. A single flat silver pendant is suspended within the inner hoop, while a fringe of 7 pendants of a bugle bead and a silver sphere hang from the inner hoop. From the outer hoop hang a long triangular pendant fringe of 13 graduated strands with bugle beads, terminating in flat silver teardrop forms. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461874/
Necklace - Rabari Festival Attire
Necklace. "Bib" style necklace with 4-strand black yarn necklace with silver slide at back. Front bib of silver beads mounted in vertical bands into a "fan" form, from which hang a fringe of 11 polished cowrie(?) shells, with a further fringe of pendant chains and spheres hanging from each shell. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461823/
Pumps
Pumps of Prince of Wales plaid wool in gray with blue and yellow undertones. The shoes are designed with a gently pointed toe and plain upper, and are lined in tan kid. The 3" French heel is covered in same fabric. Maker's stamp inside shoe: "DAL CO' / ROMA" Handwritten style number(?) inside both shoes: "621" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461793/
Deer Hoof Shoes
Pair of "Deer Hoof" shoes for bound feet. Tiny heeled shoes of dark navy silk, the uppers with multicolored floral embroidery at top and sides, and cloud-form patterns of couched gold thread around heels. Edged at top with blue silk ribbon. The shaped heels are of white leather. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461833/
Man's Vest
Vest of blue, red and white leather suede. The blue body of the vest has star-shaped cut-outs, revealing the white lining. Floor-length red fringe hangs from the body of the vest. Label at center back neckline: "Great Northern / Leather & Tea Co. / 100% Leather & Suede / 113 Elizabeth St. New York City" Inside back signed: "Roy A. Schueler" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461792/
Cocktail Ensemble
Cocktail ensemble consisting of: A) Blouse of fuchsia wool jersey with long sleeves, banded neckline with placket down the center back, and 5 self-covered circular buttons. B) Skirt of black silk brocade, Dirndl style, below knee length, with center back opening having a zipper and 2 hook&eyes on waistband. Unlined. C) Belt of matching black silk brocade with matching fuchsia wool jersey on reverse. Square self-covered buckle. 2" wide. The blouse and belt with no labels or stamps. The skirt with combined Designer/Retailer label at side seam near hem: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461765/
Cocktail Dress
Cocktail dress of ivory four-ply silk and brown wool crepe. Torso and long sleeves are of ivory silk, and the 5" cuffs and 15" skirt panel are of brown wool crepe. Silk tie at neckline hangs down front and back. Center back opening with 5 self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes supplemented with snaps at neckline. Top portion lined in ivory silk, bottom portion lined in brown silk. Designer's label in skirt: "Norman Norell / New York". Retailer's(?) label sewn into lining, partly obscured: "Saks Fifth Avenue / Helas / Greenhill / 4-19-66 5322". Union label in skirt near designer's label. This garment shows evidence at hemline of having been shortened. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461816/
Evening Ensemble - Jacket and Dress
Evening ensemble consisting of: A) Evening dress of black wool crepe, knee-length, sleeveless, and with jewel neckline. Center back zipper, with hook & eye. Attached belt of 2-1/2" wide black satin ribbon at waist. Side in-seam pockets. Lined in black silk. B) Jacket of black wool crepe with satin cuffs, and jewel neckline, and long sleeves. Center front opening. Jacket is completely covered in vertical lines of clear/ mirror rhinestones. Lined in black silk. Jacket has combined Designer's/Retailer's label at center back neckline: "Norman Norell for Bonwit Teller" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461799/
Man's Coat
Man's coat of chocolate brown polyurethane. Trench coat style, double-breasted with 7 (1 missing) circular gold-tone buttons with centers of self. Convertible collar with large lapel and smaller, matching button. Epaulets at shoulders. Vertical slotted pockets with 1-1/2" welt. Long vent down center back closes with single, hidden button. Lined in olive green synthetic fiber fabric. Inner zipper for lining, now missing. With matching belt with brown, rectangular buckle. Brand (?) label inside: "Dimension IV" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461820/
Coat
Coat of red wool knit. Double-breasted with 10 self covered circular buttons and 5 bound buttonholes. Full length. Bracelet-length set-in sleeves with white satin, notched cuffs. Notched collar with white satin covered lapels. Vertical welt pockets at sides. Lined in matching white silk. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Norman Norell / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461797/
Shoes - Japanese Traditional Ensemble
Pair of Geta. The sandals are straight last, with thick white plastic soles, having horizontal bands of orange in two shades. Orange and white straps to fit between toe and back to sides of foot. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461776/
Pouch - Turkish Festival Outfit
Pouch. Orange cotton pouch, rounded at bottom. Suspended by gold metallic cord. Edged with metallic thread lace. The surface of the pouch is embroidered with various colors of metallic embroidery, mostly chain-stitch. Lined in orange cotton. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461768/
Shoes - Turkish Festival Outfit
Pair of shoes. Styled as low, backless slippers with upturned, pointed toes. Toe-box of striped cotton (silk?) with stripes of purple, yellow, orange, etc., with small diamonds of white. Stripes run from toe up to throat of shoe. The toe-box is edged in gold. Insole lined in orange. Soles of leather. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461798/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of off-white linen(?) formed as a short cylinder with flattened top, somewhat sunken around edges and slightly domed at center. The whole is overlaid with an off-white net veil to which are affixed scattered small "puffs", and four large satin cording devices shaped as looped bows or modified trefoils. Hat is unlined, allowing woven straw base to show, and has inner off-white grosgrain ribbon hat band. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461863/
Shoes - Egyptian Traditional Ensemble
Shoes. Slip-on, low-heeled, open back slippers of red leather. Toe-box decorated with Egyptian motifs, including lotus flowers and a "Nefertiti" head. Lined in read leather. Black rubber soles. Note: mis-matched pair. Both are left shoes. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461851/
Ensemble - Jacket, Blouse, and Skirt
Ensemble consisting of: A) Jacket of woven silver metallic, heavy-weight thread in a diamond pattern; scoop neckline; short, raglan sleeves; open-front; reverse pleat at center-back below waistline; crescent, princess seams at back and front; 2 slit pockets at sides; knee-length; fully lined in ivory silk organdy. B) Blouse of off-white silk organza moire, sleeveless and cinched under the armpit; scoop neckline embellished at front with various rectangular pieces of fabric swatches in self-fabric and white knit with triangular and square crystal gem accents; under-layer of self-moire with an extended hem; attached tie at waist sides of white cotton. C) Mini-skirt of ivory crisp woven fabric (wool) with wide waistband, with box pleat at center-front; 2 pleats at back; waistband has double breasted snap closure at back and is lined in ivory silk; center-back zip closure that adjusts to a slit with 2 zipper tabs; lined in silk taffeta; 18 ½” length. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461767/
Necklace - Rabari Festival Attire
Necklace. Long necklace basket-weave links on which are strung tubular silver beads and mounted Indian coins. Center section composed of three larger coins, each with three pendant coins, from which hang small fringes of chain and spheres. No clasp, long flat strip at back. 16 single coins are 25 Paise from India, various dates from 1976 to 1988; 2 pendants are 50 Paise from India, dates obscured by mounts; 1 pendant is a 1979 1 Rupee from India; The 9 smaller pendant coins below main pendants are 25 Paise coins from India, dated from 1975 to 1987. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461845/
Earrings - Rabari Festival Attire
Silver earrings. Hook fasteners attached to triangular plaques set with red or red and green glass circles. Below plaques are suspended hemispherical filigree pieces with fringe of wrapped wire and silver spheres. One earring with 5 red stones, one empty collet, the other earring with 4 red and 2 green stones. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461804/
Earrings - Rabari Festival Attire
Silver earrings. Wire hook fasteners attached to oval collet containing a large oval dark blue glass(?) cabochon stone. Below stone is suspended a filigree hemisphere with dense fringe of silver shaped plaques and spheres. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461862/
Pumps
Pumps of black satin. The shoes are designed with gently pointed toes, rounded at ends, with rounded vamp. At vamp is set a bow of thin black satin ribbon, threaded into the lobes of which are black spherical beads studded with rhinestones. The plain uppers are top-stitched in parallel lines, giving them the appearance of corduroy. The 3 1/5" continental heels are covered in plain black satin. Designer's label, Right: "design by / Evins" and "Maxine Last" Retailer's label, Left: "Neiman-Marcus" Handwritten note: "7B / 1912-2EVS / 31836" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461872/
Pumps
Pair of pumps of multicolored leather and lace. The pumps are designed with rounded toes and almost squared-off vamps. The uppers are made of off-white mesh overlaid with a lattice of beige lace, with diamond shapes of yellow, green, and coral pink leather set in the openings. The upper is edged with white leather. The medium-high heels are curved around sides and back, taper to base, and are covered with same white leather. Front of heel is cut straight across, covered with light tan leather. Designer's label: "design by / Evins" Retailer's label: "Neiman Marcus" Handwritten, partly illegible, inside: "7 1/2 B Luis(?) / 29223 - 1E / 6(?) 152Y9" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461772/
Powder Compact
Pendant compact of sterling silver and enamel. The small, circular compact has plain silver sides and base; the lid embellished with pale blue enamel over engraved guilloche patterns. Plain silver circle at center, surrounded by blue circular field with engraved pinwheel design; the outer border with silver edges, divided into four arcs, and with 4 "keystone" or "T" shapes at cardinal points, the fields enameled pale blue over engraved ground. Pressure clasp opens to reveal interior, plain, with circular mirror in lid. On outside at hinge is loop to suspend from a chain or ribbon. Stamped on base: "Sterling" Contains small circular "puff" of dense beige felt-like material. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461814/
Purse
Drawstring purse of silver thread crochet with circle and flower appliques. Near top of purse on front and back are sewn-on single metal rings and evidence of second lost ring where the top crochet border may have been folded down and attached to the purse. Lined in pink silk satin. Closure of two silver braided drawstrings at sides. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461819/
Purse
Pouch purse of ivory cotton with red trim at top and bottom; red piping at seams. Rectangular shape. Covered in floral embroidery. Zipper closure across top with wooden ring attached to zipper pull. Lined in ivory crepe silk with interior pockets at each side. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461808/
Skirt Suit
Daytime skirt suit of Prince of Wales check wool in gray with pink and brown check. The skirt suit consists of: A) Jacket, hip length, with full-length sleeves. Center front opening secured with hooks and eyes. 4 pockets at front, each with turned-back cuff pockets of silk brocade at breast level and below waist; the silk brocade of ecru background with pink and red flowers on green vines; asymmetric flared peplum at back featuring geometric cut; stand up collar is lined in matching silk brocade. B) Skirt of matching wool, straight and knee-length, with an 8” slit at center-back with inset of fan-like accordion pleated godet. C) Two matching pair of shoes, one pair of silk brocade matching the pocket flaps, and the other pair of gray wool matching the rest of the outfit. Both pair are heeled pumps designed with pointed toe, the heels are a modified spike. Lined in gold leather. The shoes are all stamped "Dal Co' / Roma". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461875/
Hair bow
Hair bow of lime green faille with combs underneath to hold it in place. Label on center underside on white set on orange grosgrain ribbon cut at 45 degree angle on ends: "Henry's Hats" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461809/
Pumps
Pumps of green satin. Designed with a rounded toe, the shoes have plain uppers of green satin, and are lined in silver leather. The thick, medium height heels are rounded at sides and back, tapering to the base, and are covered on sides and back with same green satin. The flat front of the heels is covered in pale brown/tan leather. Designer's label in left: "herbert levine" Retailer's label in right: "Neiman Marcus" Handwritten note: "7 B / 75754 / 3205-819" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461869/
Pumps
Pumps of hot pink silk shantung. The shoes are designed with a pointed toe and squared vamp. The plain uppers have a simple top-stitch around upper edge. The continental heel is covered at sides and back with same pink silk, and at front with light brown leather. Lined in off-white leather. Designer's label in right shoe: "design by / Evins"; Retailer's label in left shoe: "Neiman Marcus"; Handwritten inside: "4 1/2B Po[illeg.] JR / 7822 2E / 6 2 - 12547" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461790/
Picture Hat
Picture hat of finely woven black straw. The low, domed crown is encircled at base by a 1" black velvet hatband. The wide, circular brim of the same straw is edged in a narrow band of black velvet and has a slightly wavy rim. The brim is overlaid by black tulle; at the front is a cluster of artificial flowers of pinks and peach silk organza and velvet, and sprigs of smaller flowers. The hat is unlined, with an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label inside: "Model / Mr. Iaan / Vancouver, B.C.", with a tiny artificial violet blossom attached to top of label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461846/
Hat
Hat of fine white buckram. Styled as a modified breton hat with upturned brim, the 4" high crown is gently rounded/domed, and encircled at base by a wide, twisted band of the same material. 17" across, the wide, circular brim extends out and curves out and up, and is lined/faced with artificial flowers in red, white, blue, and yellow silk. The crown is unlined, with an inner off-white grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label inside: "Ian / D", with small red rhinestone attached at upper right corner. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461856/
Turban
Turban of silk shantung in blues and green. The tight, somewhat conical crown is flattened at top, and is composed of horizontally wound and folded silk shantung in a pattern of pale blue stripes and stripes of white with either dark blue or olive green line in a simplified meander pattern. The hat is lined in a fine white net, and has an inner off-white grosgrain ribbon hatband. Retailer's label inside: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461838/
Ensemble - Dress and Bolero Jacket
Evening ensemble in orange and taupe crepe. The sleeveless, full-length dress is of taupe crepe, and has a "V" neckline in front and a deep "V" in back. Around high waist is a wide band of orange crepe outlined in gold braid and oval simulated pearls. The band is heavily beaded in faux coral and turquoise beads in various patterns and floral motifs. The bodice of the dress gathers into the front of the band, and has a zipper and hook-and-eyes closure at left side. The Bolero jacket is of the orange crepe. The cropped jacket has a rounded neckline and long sleeves. The neckline, center front opening, and lower hem is heavily beaded to match the band on the dress, with added faux turquoise beading in floral forms on the front panels of the jacket. No labels in either garment. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402510/
Evening Dress
Evening dress of white silk jersey. Floor length; long dolman sleeves. Deep V neckline. Set-in waistline gathered at sides. Skirt gathers below set-in waistline. Left side zipper with two snaps; petersham at interior of waist. Hip drapery with wide sewn in "belt", pleated at ends and closed with 4 hook & eyes. Unlined. Combined designer/retailer label on inside left seam near hem: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402568/
Cocktail Dress
A) Cocktail dress of blue silk satin. Sleeveless with spaghetti straps of same. Set-in waist which scallops at bottom hem and attaches to panels of full skirt. Tea length. Left side zipper with hook & eye. Skirt lined in black tulle. Combined retailer/designer label at inside left seam near hem: "Neiman-Marcus dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Belt of same with rectangular, self covered buckle. 1/2 inch wide. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402569/
Skirt Suit
Two-piece wool suit in brown and cream wool twill check. a) Jacket of brown and cream wool twill check. Single breasted with three circular brown plastic buttons and bound buttonholes; notched collar. Long sleeves with three smaller matching, functional buttons and bound buttonholes. Side flap pockets with welts. Lined in brown silk. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Norell" b) Skirt of matching brown and cream wool twill check. A-line with 1-1/4 inch waistband. Center back opening with zipper and two hook & bars on waistband. Lined in brown silk. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402560/
Dress
A) Dress of yellow wool knit. Full-length. Mandarin collar, with ends stitched down to form slight collar points. Center front opening with 17 self-covered circular buttons and bound button holes, two buttons non-functional due to sewn-down collar, and one extra button hole at top in collar, but no button. Long or 3/4 length sleeves. Two large patch pockets at front hips. Lined in yellow silk. Designer's label: "Norman Norell / New York" B) Tie belt of same fabric. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402531/
Day Dress
Daytime shift style dress of bright red wool jersey. Calf length with long, set-in sleeves. Pointed collar. Center front opening with 9 black plastic circular buttons with bound buttonholes. Large patch pockets at sides. Lined in red silk. Designer's label at inside left seam of lining: "Norman Norell / New York" Retailer's label at center back neckline: "Lou Lattimore / Dallas" b) Black satin bow. Attaches to neckline of dress under the collar with two large covered snaps. c) Black patent leather belt. 1-1/2 inches wide with square buckle covered in same. Backing of tan leather. Back stamped: "14 / Norman Norell" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402498/
Dress
A) Dress of pale yellow/parchment wool jersey knit. Street-length, with center front opening with 7 self-covered circular buttons, the eighth - at throat - missing. Patch pocket at upper right breast, and two large patch pockets at hips. Long sleeves, gathered into cuffs, which have two self-covered buttons each. Lined in matching silk(?) Designer's label: "Norman Norell / New York" Retailer's label: "Lou Lattimore / Dallas" B) Tie belt of same fabric. No labels in belt. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402528/
Dress
Dress of navy blue wool jersey. a) Day dress of navy wool jersey. White linen detachable collar connects to neckline with snaps. Below knee length with A-line skirt. White linen 7/8" bias strip at edge of center front opening that extends 7 1/2" below waist. Thirteen 3/4" pearl buttons with gold edge and bound buttonholes; buttons separate at waistline to accommodate belt. Long sleeves with 1-3/4" slit at seam. 3" deep pleat in skirt at side front and back. Concealed slit pockets in side seams. Unlined. Designer's label on inside left seam: "Norman Norell / New York" b) Belt of 3" wide white patent leather, slightly curved, with large circular gold buckle. Not original to garment. Evidence of small cords at side seams, which Norell usually used to attach cloth belts, or thin belt-loops. This belt would not have fit. Retailer's stamp on reverse: "I Magnin / 30 Calderon 5938" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402521/