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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Decade: 1950-1959
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Ensemble
Ensemble consisting of: A) Jacket of black and white gingham cotton check. Bracelet length sleeves. Side front opening with 7" button extension. On left side front, there are two large circular black plastic buttons at waist and one at top button at neckline flap closure; bound buttonholes. Peter pan collar starts at piping edge of left side front and right side front. Two flap welt pockets. Back with inverted box pleat which starts open at neckline and goes to 2" above waist where it is stitched together. Side back shoulders have flanges which are basted down at bottom. Collar's, pockets', cuffs', front to back flanges hemline's and front opening's edges all bound in black satin bias tape. Lined in smaller cotton gingham check. Designer's label at inside center back neckline: "Galanos" B) Blouse of black and white, small gingham check. Center front opening with 2 (+ 1 missing) black circular plastic buttons supplemented with snaps and hook & eyes. Fitted, flared waist . Sleeveless. Collarless, slightly scooped neckline which forms a V in back. Neckline, sleeve openings and center front opening trimmed in black satin. Lined in fine white net. Designer's label on inside left seam: "Galanos" C) A-line skirt, street length, in black and white gingham cotton. Narrow waist of black grosgrain. Left side zipper. Lined in cream colored silk. d) Contour belt covered in black and white gingham check. Square buckle covered in same. Three holes. Back in light tan leather. Stamped: "Galanos Originals / Beverly Hills" e) Hat of quilted black and white gingham check. Black satin headband ties in knot on right. Crown in smaller check than brim. Brim piped in black satin and slits at right beneath headband knot. Lined in alternating triangular sections of large and small gingham check. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Galanos / 935 (handwritten)" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283773/
Ensemble
Ensemble of blue silk crepe with black and white print, consisting of: A) Tunic top of silk crepe. Short, bat wing sleeves with insert of black, rectangular material at shoulder line. Mock V-neck opening backed with same material and ties of self. Center back zipper. Unlined. Designer's label at back zipper: "Adrian / Original" B) Skirt of same fabric. Straight; below knee-length. Black crepe waistband. Zipper closure with slit at hem line. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283764/
Skirt Suit
Navy blue two-piece skirt suit of wool consisting of: A. Fitted jacket with Peter Pan collar. Tab at top of jacket under neck extends two inches past center and buttons on left side with two round buttons. Jacket center opening has one hook at center and one button at waist. Full-length sleeves made in one piece with jacket front and back. Gusset under arm for ease of movement. Right sleeve is decorated with blue and grey stripe pattern which extends up sleeve and across onto tab. Vertical stripe starts from back waist and runs down front, forming plaid at shoulder and is gathered into a narrow band at waist. Stripe continues to hem of jacket and has fold of striped fabric coming from under band to form scarf-like effect. Back is made in 6 sections with plaid design at shoulder and stripes running horizontally and vertically and ending before the absolute center. Band at waist is continued on back right, but does not reach jacket center. Inside lined with blue silk. Designer's label at center back inside neck: "Adrian / Original" Retailer's label along left inside flap of opening: "The Fashion / Ben Wolfman Inc. / Houston" Label for original owner(?): "TJ McBryde" B: Blue straight skirt with hook and snap closure at left side of waistband and zipper fly. Grey stripe pattern starts at hip area and continues around skirt, not meeting at back center. Vertical stripes fall from right side, forming plaid at intersection of other stripe, and continues to hem. Front center has kick pleat. Skirt does not have label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283768/
Dress
Ensemble of printed silk. This cocktail or dinner ensemble in the "New Look" consists of a dress and bolero-style jacket of printed floral Ikat silk with a black ground and floral design in gray, browns and dark brown/mauve shades. A) The dress is mid-calf-length, sleeveless, and with a boat neckline. Tailored to fit, with side bust and waist darts. Self fabric bow at top of waist gore which releases into a box pleat at the skirt. Slightly dropped waist. Under the sides of front box pleat edges are two knife pleats to create fullness, with darts for slimmer waist. On either side of front bock pleat is a small 1"intake pleat to balance fullness of skirt. Side seams have a lapping box pleat and an small triangular insert from front side seams. Back waist has 4 sets of box pleats, two on either side of center back zipper closure. The dress has built-in under-structure consisting of inner half-slip of off-white satin, and three layers of stiffened netting petticoats, all with horsehair braid at hem. B) The matching jacket is of the same cloth, cropped short in the bolero style. The center-front opening has no closures and is collarless. Raglan style sleeves are tea elbow length. Under sleeve and sleeve cuff is slightly ruched creating a faux cuff look. It is fully lined in a brown silk organza. 4-way underarm gusset. Sewn into the hem are French weights. There is no label in the dress. The jacket has a single designer's label: "Printemps-Ete 1956 / Christian Dior / Paris" which has stamped on it "80615". The "1956" appears embossed, not printed, and the black backing of the label is cut away behind the "1956". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283770/
Hat
Hat with high, modified toque style crown of black velvet. Brimless. Black satin trim around hat. Designer's label: Janyth Roy / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283706/
Dress
Dress of black wool with black leather trim. The street-length dress has a standup collar trimmed in snaps. Front opening is leather trimmed and has 5 self-covered snaps. Detachable front skirt panel is edged along top with black leather trim and secured with 5 self-covered snaps. Bracelet length sleeves trimmed with snaps at cuff. Back zipper. Fully lined in black satin. Handwritten label on inside back seam: "Pierre Balmain Fall 1955" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283720/
Calotte Hat
Hat with calotte style crown of orange velvet. Hatband of self around crown forms one knot in front. Beige veil. Retailer's label on inside headband: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283695/
Toque Hat
Toque style hat of leopard fur. Lined in green silk. Retailer's label on inside crown: "Neiman-Marcus / Custom Made" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283665/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of black velvet. Small, quilted brim folds up in front and back. One, long tie string of same drapes across front brim and down sides. Black grosgrain ribbon inside hatband. Lined in black fabric. Manufacturer's label on inside hatband: "Betmar / Adj." Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Lord & Taylor / young new yorkers' / hat shop / Fifth Avenue" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283679/
Dress
a) Dress of oatmeal colored silk with black polka dots. Six self covered buttons with covered buttonholes supplemented with snaps and hook & eyes at waist form front closure. Short, modified raglan sleeves. Bodice lined in oatmeal colored silk crepe. Gathered at hip line. Skirt supported with netting and lined in cream colored organza. Designer's label at left inside seam: "Galanos" Retailer's label at right inside seam: "Neiman-Marcus" b) Matching belt in same. Belts at natural waist in large gap between buttons. Belt in two pieces; longer piece has self covered buckles at each end and smaller piece has 3 punch holes at each end. Leather backing in natural color. Back stamped: "Galanos" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283718/
Hat
Hat of green net and artificial flowers. Formed somewhat as a Juliet cap, the net base has wire stiffened edges and forms a close, rounded crown with sections that extend down sides and back of head. The base is covered with artificial flowers (daisies or dogwood blossoms?), with green cloth stems and leaves, the blossoms with white petals and yellow centers. Unlined. With 3 black bobby-pins for securing to wearer's head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283707/
Dress
Dress of muted pink silk organza over a layer of beige taffeta with ivory Schiffli lace embroidery in a floral motif; bodice is strapless with horizontal pleating below bust and top portion is trimmed with self-embroidered lace and lattice, and has scalloped, embroidered trim at neckline; boning within; full, wide skirt is gathered into waistline and falls to below knee-length; layers of stiffened tulle support the wide silhouette; bottom of skirt is embellished with self-embroidered lace and lattice with vines of flowers trailing up to the mid-skirt; hem has scalloped, embroidered trim; left side-zip closure. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283722/
Hat
Beanie style cap of medium brown vicuna wool. Eight panel cap is accented with a stylized bow of self at the peak of the crown. Tan grosgrain sweatband. Lined in dark olive green silk faille. Retailer's label stitched inside center back, over sweatband: "A. Harris & Co. / Shop of Originals" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283674/
Hat
Hat of black raw silk. Pillbox style crown has spiral wrapped fabric of same on top. Three hair combs inside on black grosgrain ribbon headband. Lined in light gold fabric. Retailer's label on inside crown: "Neiman-Marcus / Made to Order" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283716/
Hat
Hat of mauve and burgundy velvet flowers with brown silk flowers at crown. Gold rhinestones accent the green velveteen leaves at brim and the silk flowers at crown. Lined in lace with cream colored grosgrain ribbon inner headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283728/
Hatlet
Hatlet of silver silk embellished all over with silver bugle beads. Beige veil. Lined in light rose colored fabric with rose colored grosgrain ribbon headband. Two combs attached to grosgrain ribbon at sides for securing hat to wearer's head. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283762/
Toque Hat
a) Toque of red/orange and yellow print wool. Two hatpins with spherical heads covered in material matching toque and head scarf. Lined in white with "Mr John" pattern in gold. Designer' label on inside hatband with rhinestone studded, tabbed ends: "Mr. John" b) Scarf of matching material with large square of lattice work crochet netting of red/orange in middle of scarf to provide veiled effect. Designer's label: "Mr. John" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277084/
Capulet Hat
Capulet style hat of red silk faille with 3 folds of self on either side. Red, slightly stiffened nose veil. Designers label: "MR. JOHN" Measurements: (Veil not included in measurements) L: 13 cm W: 49 cm H: 11 cm digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277080/
Hat
Hatlet made of black silk taffeta with 5 silk leaves off front of crown and bow of self in back as trim. Black net veil interspersed with chenille balls. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277069/
Dress - Kutchi Group, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan.
Kutchi Dress of the Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan. Full-length. Bodice of various fabrics and embellishments. Rounded neckline with slight standing/band collar of primarily yellow bead-work with blue bead squares containing red bead centers. "Collar" below neckline of pendant silver-colored coins. Shoulder areas of purple with primarily yellow stitching forming scroll-work. Front "bib" of dark red outlined with same bead-work as neckline, and sewn with 9 horizontal rows of green tear-drop shaped beads and a line of silver-colored coins. Center part of bodice of black fabric with all-over red reflective circles. Wide "waist" of dress with geometric bead-work band of white, green, red, blue, and orange, with band of small circular mirrors and two lower borders of fringe tipped with white and green beads, and lowest border of coins. Sleeves of dark green velvet with bands of rickrack of silver and gold, and stitching matching the shoulder areas. Edged with bead-work and with row of silver-colored coins. Skirt is full-length, and full, and is of dark blue/black fabric printed with white and grey pattern of small flower blossoms, paisley shapes, dots, leaves, etc. Hem of dress with wide embroidered band, upper section with horizontal band of squares of various colors (reddish, green, orange, pale green, purple), center band of yellow, and lower band of reddish/magenta. Unlined. No labels or tags. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276981/
Terno
Traditional Philippine terno ensemble of gold silk and mesh made from rengue, a stiff pineapple fiber material. A) Skirt (Saya) of stiffened gold silk with black lined embroidered circles and wavy black ribbon embellishment. Full-length, with long rectangular train in back. B) Top (camisa) of mesh pineapple fiber. Cropped-length, with wide, full, elbow-length sleeves gathered at armholes. Sleeves with circular embellishments. C) Chemise of pale orange rayon with cutwork and machine embroidery hem and neckline. Sleeveless, full-length. D) Scarf/fichu (alampay) or shawl (Panuelo) of mesh pineapple fiber with circular embellishments. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277017/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of magenta satin. Sides of crown with horizontally pleated "fans" or waves of self material. At front of hat is pewter-toned metal and rhinestone ornament with pink feather spray behind. Ornament is square shaped with large, red faceted stone and four small, red faceted stones in each corner of the square. Around crown is fine magenta netting/veiling. Lined in black. Retailer's label inside crown: "Neiman-Marcus" Size label: "22". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276986/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of navy blue velvet trimmed around edge with blue/purple iridescent beads which form swirls on crown. Grosgrain inner headband with comb for securing hat to wearer's head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277105/
Calotte Hat
Calotte hat of black net and black velvet. Small black velvet bows as trim around headband and on netting over open crown. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276974/
Headband
Headband of navy blue grosgrain braid with navy veil extending over front. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277113/
Headband
Headband of black grosgrain braid with black veil extending over front. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277090/
Headband
Headband of dark green velvet. Double banded. One band in velvet, other band decorated with hearts of mink fur upon hearts of velvet. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277131/
Headband
Headband hatlet made of black straw bow alternating with black silk bow in layers. Veil with chenille balls in diagonal pattern. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277048/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hatlet of 4 ultramarine velvet bows. Open crown, wire frame structure covered in matching material. Entire hat covered with matching veil. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277117/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of red velvet with red feather trim and lace interior lining. Designers Label: "Amy / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277115/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black satin with veil. Sides of crown with horizontally pleated waves of self material. Large brooch at center front with rhinestones as trim. Black net veil with snaps at ends for securing hat to wearer's head. Lined in black, diamond patterned material. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276977/
Hat
Head ring of royal blue satin with braided effect. Blue veil meets at top of open crown and falls over entire hat with chenille dots decorating front of veil. No labels. Two combs at sides for securing hat to wearer's head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276975/
Hat
Pillbox hat of navy blue velvet with bow like trims of self-fabric. Open crown with navy veil over top and front. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277005/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of black satin. Bow of black satin as trim. Net at back of hat. Hatpin with head covered in matching satin. Lined. Comb at inside front of hat for securing hat to wearer's head. Retailer's label: "A. Harris & Co. / Dallas" Union/size label to right of retailer's label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277085/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of black cabochons and bugle beads. Black velvet piping at edges. Lined in black netting. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277099/
Bandeau Hat
Bandeau hat of black feathers. Dark maroon satin ribbon at center front and veil. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277107/
Hat
Hatlet of three black velvet rings over black net embellished with rhinestones. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277079/
Calotte
Hat of sequins and beading. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot") with shaped crown covered in iridescent sequins of light blues, with a large flower-head on either side embellished with pale blue and white sequins, gray bead, and pearls. The petals of the flowers extend below edge of crown. Overlaid with pale blue light mesh veil. Lined in lace. Designer's label inside: "A / Frances & Walter Nelkin / Hat", with a red sequin sewn in each upper corner of label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277046/
Calotte
Hat of brwon felt and brown feathers. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot") with shaped close crown of brown felt totally covered with long brown feathers laid lengthwise across crown and forming "petals" at edges. Overlaid with brown mesh veil. Unlined, but edged with narrow band of brown grosgrain ribbon. Accompanied by two pearl-headed pins. Designer's label sewn inside: "Styled by Coralie" Attached to hat is original paper label: "Thank You! / We hope you enjoy / your beautiful new hat" and "28 42J / 303" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276998/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox-style hat of faux(?) purple felted fur. The cylindrical crown has horizontal "waist" at mid-point, and a flat top. Surmounting hat is a cone-shaped ornament formed of layers of rhinestone set discs, of "amethyst" in two shades, "aquamarines", "diamonds", and a surmounting "amethyst". Lined in purple satin with dark purple grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277161/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of black velvet with two temple clips. Wire cored passementerie edge. Black lace and thread balls as trim. Lined in multicolored striped fabric with pink grosgrain and gold ric-rac on inside headband. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277164/
Hatlet
Hatlet covered in white cotton pique fabric. Hatlet has two supports over back of head to bow on back. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277013/
Hat
Hat of black netting. Dome shaped with six small black birds arranged in circle at crown. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277163/
Hat
Red leaf hat. Rounded conical hat of netting partly covered with red and pink silk leaves. Inside the hat, which has aspects of both a cloche and a toque, at the base of the crown, is a band of red grosgrain ribbon. Sewn into the ribbon band is designer's label: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277030/
Cloche
Cloche hat of navy blue felt. The hat is designed with a domed crown, and a "brim" of three horizontally pleated bands of the same felt extending upwards along the crown at front and sides. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277135/
Hatlet
Hatlet of cream satin. The low cap, designed somewhat like a beret, is rounded and flattened, bulging at sides. No brim. At one side is a horizontal spray of fine white feathers extending back along the side of the hat. Inside of hat is lined with a golden satin, and has an off-white grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Two small plastic combs are attached to inner sides of hat to help secure it to wearer's head. Designer's label inside crown: "Neiman-Marcus / Made to Order" A price tag is attached to inner hatband, originally $7.50, reduced to 75 cents. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277040/
Veil
Veil of navy blue net. The circular veil has five attached small bows of navy blue. A small string attached to the veil and to a bobby pin helps to secure veil to wearer's head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277172/
Hat
Hat of beige/brown felt. The domed crown gently transitions into the medium-width brim, and extends forward in front, flattening and forming a bill-like extension. At sides and back, brim turns up and extends vertically most of height of crown. The underside of the brim/bill is made of same felt, carried under to continue same facing as top. Crown is unlined, and the hat has a brown grosgrain ribbon inner hatband and a black elastic cord secured to inner hatband to help secure hat to wearer's head. Label sewn inside crown: "Mr. John" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277123/
Calotte
Hat of very pale green felt and beading. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), with slightly shaped crown embellished with scattered transparent gray beads, pearl beads, and rhinestones. Unlined. Inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Henrys / Dallas Henrys has been identified alternately as maker or retailer. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277053/
Calotte
Hat of black velvet. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), with low, domed crown. Crown is rolled and upturned, and is embelished at front right with a white metal brooch set with simulated rhinestones forming a star-burst. Hat is unlined, with black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label at inside headband: "Valerie / Modes" Size label at inside hatband: "22 / MSC" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277143/