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UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Texas Fashion Collection
Hat of purple felt. Designed to appear as a beret, the hat has a low crown, folded and somewhat crushed, with parts extending out as a brim in front and a "wing" at side. No real brim, but the extensions of the crown simulate one. Curled around the "wing" is a band of metallic thread and beading braid. Unlined. With purple grosgrain inner hatband, and a black elastic cord to help secure hat to wearer's head.
Maker's label: "Parkridge / Exclusives"
Hat of light blue ostrich feathers. Designed on a circular under band of light blue velvet-covered wire, the hat is formed of a radiating spray of dyed ostrich feathers, with light blue netting extending out as a veil, and with two light blue ribbon loops with attached simulated tortoise-shell hairpins to secure hat to wearer's head. Unlined.
Designer's label: "Damozel / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286819/
Cap of ocher/dark yellow wool. Designed somewhat as a "watch cap", the hat has a high domed crown, which folds up at bottom to extends back upwards almost the entire height of the crown. Spaced top-stitching along upper edge. Unlined.
Designer's label inside: "Adolfo II / New York Paris"
- Evening Dress and Jacket Ensemble
A) Evening dress of white crocheted silk floral lace over ivory chiffon. The full-length strapless sheath dress has a body-skimming silhouette and a straight-line upper edge at bust trimmed with a band of ivory satin. Hemline dips at back, and creates a very slight train effect. Size 8
B) Jacket of double faced ivory silk satin with open-front and shawl collar which extends to waist-length hem. Long dolman sleeves extend to hem with gauntlet cuff with 2 ½” slit. Size 6
Designer's label: "Pamela Dennis / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286884/
Dress of green silk and hand beading. Bodice is green with netting ; V-neck; lace and beading detail on bodice. Strapless, with off-the-shoulder "cap sleeves" of black lace with green beaded floral motif; motif continues over full length skirt. Green sash attached to bodice. Side zipper closure.
Designer's label: "Michael Faircloth" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286938/
- Skirt Suit
Woman's skirt suit of grey-black twill wool with blue and creme yellow pinstripe.
a) Jacket has flat pointed collar with a rectangular insert yoke panel trimmed with four teal, olive and brown mottled plastic buttons. Center front opening with three same buttons and bound button holes. Bodice has 3 faux pocket flaps on right, increasing in size like a step pyramid. Long, one-piece set in sleeves sleeves with two elbow darts on both arms. Right arm has two rectangular, decorative fabric panels on right sleeve of jacket's fabric, with a single button and bound button hole each in the upper, outer corner. Lined in tan silk faille.
Designer's Label at center back collar: "Adrian/ in/British Samek Material"
(b) A-line skirt with CF and CB and side seams. Hemmed in navy blue hem tape, blind hem (slip) stitched on both sides. 3" hem. Four waist darts, with 1 3/8" waist band ending in arrow tip over left-side lapped zipper. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286814/
- Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of black English gabardine.
a) Jacket with parallel rows of scalloped seam details which angle from the center front neck and shoulders to the side seam to meet the back scalloped seams. Convertible collar. Long, two-piece sleeves with scallop seam detail from wrist to shoulder; underarm shaped with dart. Center front opening with three self covered buttons with bound buttonholes. Lined in black textured silk.
Designer's label at inside, right front buttonhole extension: "Adrian / Original"
Retailer's label at inside back neckline: " Neiman-Marcus"
b) Pencil skirt of same with center front scallop from hip to hem; last scallop is used for shaped vent. Lined in black textured silk. Lapped left-side zipper. Waistband overlap ends in a triangle. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286829/
- Wedding Dress
Wedding dress of hot pink net with shirred all-over appliques and rhinestones. Dress is a short sheath style with V-neck and long sleeves with full length train in back with pink satin bustle with pink silk flowers.
Has a matching headpiece with hot pink net veil, not photographed. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286837/
Dress of cashmere knit with motif in black, gray and pinks. Designer's signature of "Emilio" in the fabric print. Long sleeves; round, bateau neckline. Knee length. Center back zipper.
Designer's label at inside right back: "Emilio Pucci / Florence - Italy / Made in Italy"
Retailer's label on inside left back: "Neiman-Marcus / Trophy Room" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286787/
Straight cape of black long-hair monkey fur. Full length, no arm holes, arm slits nor sleeves and no collar. 5 heavy hook and eye closures down center front. Fully lined in black wool crepe-felted. Very heavy. Likely to be Columbus monkey.
Designer's label at right side at seam "Hattie Carnegie"
Retailer's label at back center top "Neiman-Marcus Dallas";
- Evening Dress
Short evening dress of silver lamé and sequined lace with ostrich feather skirt. Straight strapless bodice with drop waist. Lower skirt covered with vertical rows of beige feather boa. Lined in taupe silk.
With matching boa of ostrich feather with silver and gold Lurex thread.
Designer's label on inside back shoulder: "Victor Costa"
Style number tag under designer's label: "Style 7780 / Size 8" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286821/
Dress of bright red wool. Sleeveless; jewel neckline; knee length. Empire waist with inserted panel, quilted and top-stitched. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Kick pleat opening at center front seam. Lined in bright orange silk.
Designer's label at inside, back neckline: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286919/
Hat of open-work crocheted olive green straw. The high, somewhat conical crown is encircled at base by a band of green velvet ribbon. Sloping brim of same openwork crochet. Scattered over crown and trailing onto brim in places are applied artificial sprays of small white flowers with green leaves. Unlined. Inner green grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Designer's label: Ursula Hammil digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286937/
- Cloche Hat
Cloche style hat of black felt with 2' flared brim. Hatband of 1" black grosgrain ribbon with simple bow in front. Unlined with black grosgrain inner headband.
Stamp on inside crown: "100% Wool / Starfire / Melange / Blend-Felt / Henry Pollak, Inc. / New York"
Retailer's label on inside headband: "Parkridge / Exclusives" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286858/
- Pillbox Hat
Pillbox style hat of black satin. Edge of crown wrapped in folds of same fabric. Inner headband of black grosgrain ribbon.
Retailer's label on inside headband: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286797/
- Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black straw. The low, cylindrical crown of black woven straw has a flat top, slightly recessed, forming a ridge around outer edge.
Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286906/
Hat in hood style of tan angora with scattered large golden paillette sequins applied over the entire surface. Hat covers head and back of neck with panels that extend around to secure at center front under chin with one circular button and loop. Unlined.
Retailer's label sewn into right side panel: "Saks Fifth Avenue"
Price tag stapled to left side panel: "100" (1 dollar?)
Hat of navy straw. Domed crown and wide, floppy brim trimmed with white topstitching. Two large white silk flowers, leaves and stems as trim on crown. Hatpin with black, oval head. Unlined with navy grosgrain ribbon inner headband.
Retailer' label on inside crown: "Neiman-Marcus / Made to Order"
Tag on inside headband: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286839/
Turban style hat of black suede. Lined in white satin.
Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286855/
- Evening Gown
Evening gown of black velvet. The strapless, full-length gown is tulip-style, with structured bodice and flaring skirt from just below hip. The interior is lined in acetate with skirt slip trimmed in 2 ruffles of fine net. Inside the bottom of the skirt are 2 under-skirts of ruffled fine net. Gown has a center-back zipper and hook-and-eye closure.
Designer's label at inside back: "Patricia Rhodes / PR"
Size label: "6"
Content/Care label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286838/
Evening ensemble of brown silk jersey and sequined appliques.
A) Dress. Sleeveless, the full-length sheath dress has 1” wide straps which are embellished with length-wise decorative top stitching. The dress has an empire waist, and a modified sweetheart neckline. The bust is covered with floral/leaf form appliques which are covered in translucent brown sequins and edged in gold metallic thread. Center back zipper closure from top to mid-back, and slit from center back lower hem upwards. Lined in brown polyester.
B) Jacket. The matching jacket is of bolero form, cropped short, with no collar and a slightly undulating neckline which continues along the edges of the center front opening, and the lower edge. Long sleeves have cuffs with same edging. The whole jacket is overlaid with floral/leaf form velvet appliques edged in metallic gold threading and covered with sequins in various shades of brown. Jacket has inner shoulder pads and is lined in brown polyester.
Designer's label: "Liancarlo / Couture"
Retailer's label: "Neiman Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286793/
Turban style hat of pale pink velvet with braided pink velvet around edge. Two iridescent rhinestone and faceted jewel pins trim front. Lined in pink net. Two combs at sides for securing hat to wearer's head.
Maker's label on inside back of hat: "An Original / Mr. Stanley / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286799/
- Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of pale olive green felt with multicolored pheasant feathers on the left front. Double rolls of same felt form edge of hat which cross at front where meets feather trim. Net veil on front. Two hatpins with heads of matching felt. Unlined with inner headband of light gray/green grosgrain ribbon.
Maker's label on inside inner headband: "Frances / Dallas, Texas"
Paper tag attached to inner headband at back of hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286831/
Hat of black wool felt with attached scarf of black jersey wool. Wide, slightly asymmetrical brim. Domed crown with narrow headband of same which crosses in back and trails to edge of brim. Unlined with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband.
Stamp on inside crown: "Made in Poland / Tally-Ho / Pollak Imp Ex Corp / 100% Wool"
Retailer's label on inside headband: "Saks Fifth Avenue" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286826/
- Evening Ensemble
Dress ensemble of white net lace embellished with silver bugle beads and tiny silver sequins, and beige silk chiffon:
A) Dress of beige silk. Bodice with round neckline and no sleeves, and 2" band at empire waistline; 9" upper portion of skirt of floral embroidered net accented with bugle beads and sequins with rows of scalloped bugle beads at bottom from which full-length beaded fringe falls to hem; skirt continues to full-length with vertical stripes of floral lace and silver bugle beads. 18" slit at center-front; center-back zip closure; fully backed with tan crepe.
Designer's label near waist inside dress: "by Alfred Bosand / New York".
B) Top of white net lace embellished with silver bugle beads and silver sequins; bust and long sleeves of vertical stripes of floral lace and silver bugle beads; lower portion and band collar of floral embroidered net accented with bugle beads and sequins with rows of scalloped bugle beads at top of scalloped collar, and below bust, separating the two sections; pull-over with elasticized waist and center-back snap closure; unlined except for band collar.
No label in top. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286944/
- Picture Hat
Picture style hat of black felt. Asymmetrical brim is wider on sides. Fringe of self as trim encircles crown and drapes across brim. Unlined with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head.
Designer's label: "John Fredericks Inc. / New York"
Tag at left of designer's label: "Made in America" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286784/
Hat of black felt. The domed crown is encircled at base by a 1" wide ribon of the same felt, forming a bow at front with trailing end. The shaped brim is turned up at sides and back to a height of 3"; in front the turn-up angles downwards and becomes a short, flat section in front. The crown of the hat is lined in a black mesh, and has an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Designer's label: "Emme Inc. / New York"
Retailer's label: "Amen Wardy / El Paso * Texas"
Illegible mark of felt maker inside crown. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286922/
- Aviator's Cap Hat
Hat in the form of a white leather Aviator's Cap. The domed ovoid crown is made in six triangular sections, and has straps which extend down and buckle under the chin with two oval gilt metal links. The cap is lined with black satin, and has an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Designer's label: "Adolfo / New York Paris"
Retailer's Label: "Amen Wardy / El Paso Texas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286812/
Hat of navy blue fur felt. The low crown is domed, with steep sides at sides and back, while the front has a shallow slope extending out to become a slight brim/visor. The hat is unlined, with a dark blue grosgrain ribbon inner hatband.
Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus"
Stamped inside felt crown: "French Importation" "Ghazelle"
Size label: "21 1/2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286775/
Hat of white fabric with small navy blue polka dots. Styled somewhat as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the low, domed crown is encircled by the deeply rolled brim. At center back is a red silk carnation with navy blue ribbon bow with trailing ribbons. The rolled brim is overlaid with a navy blue mesh veil. The crown is unlined, allowing stiffened straw(?) under-structure to be seen, and has an inner dark blue grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Designer's label: "Chanda"
Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286804/
Hat of beige fabric, with close lines of top-stitching. Styled as a modified, enlarged version of a pillbox. The crown is soft sided, somewhat cylindrical and flattened at top. At front right is a bow of same fabric, with crossing ends. The crown rests on a slightly "tighter" inner band, which shows at lower edge. The hat is lined in pink grosgrain fabric, and has an inner hatband of green grosgrain ribbon.
Designer's label: "Emme Boutique" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286842/
Calotte of navy blue straw and purple velvet. The domed navy blue straw crown is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), with a slight peak at top center. It is trimmed along the lower edge with a wide, shaped band of purple velvet. At sides are two round velvet buttons which secure the navy blue mesh veil, which has diamond-shaped clusters of dots scattered throughout the mesh. The hat has an inner dark blue grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus"
Size label: "22 1/2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286870/
Calotte of green velvet and feathers. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the shaped cap has a stiff woven tan straw under-structure, and is covered with green velvet, over which is layered turquoise and teal feathers, and clusters of green velvet buds/berries and leaves. The hat is unlined, allowing the under-structure to be seen, and has a green grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. At sides are two small combs to secure hat to wearer's head.
Designer's label: "Martin Belasco / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286792/
Hat of black ostrich feathers. The hat, designed with a domed crown, is completely covered with curling black ostrich feathers, giving it the look of a wig. Lined in black satin, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband, and with two small combs to help secure the hat to the wearer's head.
Designer's label: "Bonnette / Highland Park Village" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286813/
Hat of tan/light brown fur felt. Styled somewhat as a toque, the high, domed crown is plain, but brushed to a sleek finish. The hat is unlined, with a pink grosgrain ribbon inner hatband.
Designer's label: "Frank Olive / New York"
Stamped inside crown: "Helios / HB / Body Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286908/
Hat of off-white fabric. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the low, domed crown is made of a base of stiffened woven off-white straw, covered with off-white fabric. At left side, hanging below edge of crown, is a large bow of same fabric. The hat is unlined, with an inner off-white grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286888/
Calotte of black satin. The calotte (also spelled "calot"), is created on a base of stiffened black mesh. The low, somewhat domed crown is formed by tucked and draped satin. The hat is unlined, and has a small comb attached to the inside edge to help secure it to wearer's head.
Designer's label: "Original Model / Marcelle / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286935/
Toque of light brown nutria fur. The high, cylindrical crown is flattened at top, and is lined with yellow faille/grosgrain fabric.
Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286847/
Hat of dark brown velvet. Somewhat styled as a "slouch hat", the slightly conical crown is flattened at top, and is embellished with concentric bands of top-stitching. Crown is encircled at base by a narrow band of taupe grosgrain ribbon, and has an ornament on right side consisting of a vertical 14" pheasant feather and various other brown and white feathers at base forming a "pouf". The wide brim is slightly wavy, turns down to edge, and is similarly embellished with concentric bands of top-stitching. The crown is lined in a steel gray satin, and has a steel gray grosgrain ribbon inner hatband.
Designer's label: "Adolfo / New York Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286789/
Hat of royal blue felt. The high, domed crown is encircled at base by a band of the same material, with a flat bow at back. The medium-width brim turns up at the outer edge. The hat is unlined, with an inner dark blue grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Designer's label: "Sally Victor / Boutique / New York"
Retailer's label: "Amen Wardy / El Paso Texas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286915/
Hat of muted violet straw. Styled somewhat as a sailor hat, the 2 1/2" conical crown is flattened at top, and has slightly sloping sides. Encircling the base of the crown is a 3/4" wide hatband of twisted muted cerise pink and purple velvet ribbons. At front of crown is a cluster of four velvet roses, 2 violet, 2 cerise with green leaves. Mounted above the roses is a violet velvet wrapped stand-up ornament with small bow at top, slightly to left of center front crown. The 4" wide flat brim has a narrow magenta velvet rolled band on underside of the outer edge. The hat is unlined, with an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Designer's label: "3410 Oak Lawn / Bernie A. Cahn / Dallas, Tex" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286890/
- Scarf Hat
Hat formed of a printed scarf. The hat is constructed to look as a scarf that has been tied around the wearer's head, with long trailing ends at back. The under-structure is a domed crown of stiffened black mesh overlaid with the printed scarf, which has a navy blue ground, white stars, and gold American eagles. The hat has an inner pink grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Designer's label: "Frank Olive / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286907/
- Picture Hat
Picture hat of black ribbon straw. The shallow, domed crown is surrounded by the wide, flat brim, which is edged with black velvet ribbon where edge turns down. The crown is lined in a stiffened black mesh, while the brim is lined in a fine woven black straw. The hat has an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon"
Size label: "22" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286909/
Hatlet of deep red satin. The close, curved crown is formed as a band that is worn across the wearer's head from ear to ear. The band is edged with a wide band of narrow pleated deep red satin, with ends that extend beyond the crown, forming crossed ends at sides. Lined in the same deep red satin, and with a deep red grosgrain ribbon inner hatband.
Designer's label: "Amy New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286946/
Hatlet of black velvet. The headpiece is formed as a stiffened black velvet band which has a large black velvet bow at each end.
Designer's label: "Martin Belasco"
Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286833/
- Picture Hat
Picture hat of natural straw. Low, shallow domed crown is encircled by a wreath of eight large magenta silk and velvet roses with green velvet leaves, all attached to a green velvet ribbon which ties at back with trailing ribbons. The wide, 5" brim turns downwards. Hat is unlined, with green grosgrain ribbon inner hatband.
Designer's label: "Edna Mye / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286817/
Ensemble consisting of:
A) Jacket of black and white gingham cotton check. Bracelet length sleeves. Side front opening with 7" button extension. On left side front, there are two large circular black plastic buttons at waist and one at top button at neckline flap closure; bound buttonholes. Peter pan collar starts at piping edge of left side front and right side front. Two flap welt pockets. Back with inverted box pleat which starts open at neckline and goes to 2" above waist where it is stitched together. Side back shoulders have flanges which are basted down at bottom.
Collar's, pockets', cuffs', front to back flanges hemline's and front opening's edges all bound in black satin bias tape. Lined in smaller cotton gingham check.
Designer's label at inside center back neckline: "Galanos"
B) Blouse of black and white, small gingham check. Center front opening with 2 (+ 1 missing) black circular plastic buttons supplemented with snaps and hook & eyes. Fitted, flared waist . Sleeveless. Collarless, slightly scooped neckline which forms a V in back. Neckline, sleeve openings and center front opening trimmed in black satin. Lined in fine white net.
Designer's label on inside left seam: "Galanos"
C) A-line skirt, street length, in black and white gingham cotton. Narrow waist of black grosgrain. Left side zipper. Lined in cream colored silk.
d) Contour belt covered in black and white gingham check. Square buckle covered in same. Three holes. Back in light tan leather.
Stamped: "Galanos Originals / Beverly Hills"
e) Hat of quilted black and white gingham check. Black satin headband ties in knot on right. Crown in smaller check than brim. Brim piped in black satin and slits at right beneath headband knot. Lined in alternating triangular sections of large and small gingham check.
Designer's label on inside hatband: "Galanos / 935 (handwritten)" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283773/
Ensemble of blue silk crepe with black and white print, consisting of:
A) Tunic top of silk crepe. Short, bat wing sleeves with insert of black, rectangular material at shoulder line. Mock V-neck opening backed with same material and ties of self. Center back zipper. Unlined.
Designer's label at back zipper: "Adrian / Original"
B) Skirt of same fabric. Straight; below knee-length. Black crepe waistband. Zipper closure with slit at hem line. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283764/
- Skirt Suit
Navy daytime tailored two-piece suit in British Samek wool.
a) Suit jacket of navy British Samek wool. Center front opening with three circular, blue plastic buttons; welted buttonholes button suit jacket. Padded shoulders. Two patch pockets. Notched collar with squared shoulder yoke with matching button attached to square insert. Lined in eggplant crepe.
Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Adrian / in / British Samek Material"
Tag above designer's label: "A. Herod, Sr."
b) Slim straight skirt of navy British Samek wool. Folded waistband of same. Center back zipper with snap and 4 hook and eyes on waistband. Lined in navy blue silk.
Tag on inside waistband: "A. Herod, Sr." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283769/
- Skirt Suit
Chanel-style woman's two piece suit with blouse.
a)Jacket of novelty knit slub in pink and blue ombre tone. Silk blend fabric. Styled with high, rounded extended neckline and center front opening with no method of closure. Padded shoulders. Long, fitted sleeves with one button mock slit closure at wrist. Button is goldtone, round, with half button incised lines. Short, straight bodice with two small patch pockets at hip with one button trim. Trimmed at all edges with blue and pink band. Partially lined with peach crepe at center front edge, and plain weave lining fabric at back.
Label: "Eres / Beverly Hills"
b) Skirt of matching color tones of slub yarn in plain weave. Silk blend fabric. Straight cut with fitted waistband. Deep slit at lower front seam. Trimmed at waistband with blue and pink band. Center back zipper closure with two hooks at waistband. Fully lined in peach crepe.
Label at waistband: "Eres / Beverly Hills"
Size tag: "8"
c) Blouse of blue silk with vertical stripes. Standing band collar with double ruffle and tie. Center front opening with seven square, glass buttons and hook & eye at collar. Long fitted sleeves with one button, ruffled band cuff. Straight hemline.
Label at neckline: "Eres / Beverly Hills" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283766/