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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Decade: 1950-1959
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black velvet. The somewhat large, flat-topped crown is slightly conical, and with no decoration; it has an inner green grosgrain ribbon hatband. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286866/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox of beige linen. The low, cylindrical crown is plain, with slight "lapped" edge at bottom. Lined in a fabric with golden threads, edged with gold rickrack. Inner white grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label: "by Derrieux" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286882/
Hat
Hat of navy blue straw. The very shallow crown is slightly domed, and surmounted by a large flat grosgrain ribbon bow. The wide brim curves down at outer edges, forming a deep curve. The whole rests on a hidden skull-cap crown with panel that extends down and over the back and sides of head. The hat is overlaid with a dark blue net veil worked with circular areas. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286840/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of light brown mink. The low, circular crown is made of mink tails arranged in a pinwheel design, radiating from center of the flat top of the crown. Lined in mesh and a brocade floral fabric. Inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. No labels in garment. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286801/
Skirt Suit
Navy blue two-piece skirt suit of wool consisting of: A. Fitted jacket with Peter Pan collar. Tab at top of jacket under neck extends two inches past center and buttons on left side with two round buttons. Jacket center opening has one hook at center and one button at waist. Full-length sleeves made in one piece with jacket front and back. Gusset under arm for ease of movement. Right sleeve is decorated with blue and grey stripe pattern which extends up sleeve and across onto tab. Vertical stripe starts from back waist and runs down front, forming plaid at shoulder and is gathered into a narrow band at waist. Stripe continues to hem of jacket and has fold of striped fabric coming from under band to form scarf-like effect. Back is made in 6 sections with plaid design at shoulder and stripes running horizontally and vertically and ending before the absolute center. Band at waist is continued on back right, but does not reach jacket center. Inside lined with blue silk. Designer's label at center back inside neck: "Adrian / Original" Retailer's label along left inside flap of opening: "The Fashion / Ben Wolfman Inc. / Houston" Label for original owner(?): "TJ McBryde" B: Blue straight skirt with hook and snap closure at left side of waistband and zipper fly. Grey stripe pattern starts at hip area and continues around skirt, not meeting at back center. Vertical stripes fall from right side, forming plaid at intersection of other stripe, and continues to hem. Front center has kick pleat. Skirt does not have label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283768/
Dress
Ensemble of printed silk. This cocktail or dinner ensemble in the "New Look" consists of a dress and bolero-style jacket of printed floral Ikat silk with a black ground and floral design in gray, browns and dark brown/mauve shades. A) The dress is mid-calf-length, sleeveless, and with a boat neckline. Tailored to fit, with side bust and waist darts. Self fabric bow at top of waist gore which releases into a box pleat at the skirt. Slightly dropped waist. Under the sides of front box pleat edges are two knife pleats to create fullness, with darts for slimmer waist. On either side of front bock pleat is a small 1"intake pleat to balance fullness of skirt. Side seams have a lapping box pleat and an small triangular insert from front side seams. Back waist has 4 sets of box pleats, two on either side of center back zipper closure. The dress has built-in under-structure consisting of inner half-slip of off-white satin, and three layers of stiffened netting petticoats, all with horsehair braid at hem. B) The matching jacket is of the same cloth, cropped short in the bolero style. The center-front opening has no closures and is collarless. Raglan style sleeves are tea elbow length. Under sleeve and sleeve cuff is slightly ruched creating a faux cuff look. It is fully lined in a brown silk organza. 4-way underarm gusset. Sewn into the hem are French weights. There is no label in the dress. The jacket has a single designer's label: "Printemps-Ete 1956 / Christian Dior / Paris" which has stamped on it "80615". The "1956" appears embossed, not printed, and the black backing of the label is cut away behind the "1956". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283770/
Ensemble
Ensemble of blue silk crepe with black and white print, consisting of: A) Tunic top of silk crepe. Short, bat wing sleeves with insert of black, rectangular material at shoulder line. Mock V-neck opening backed with same material and ties of self. Center back zipper. Unlined. Designer's label at back zipper: "Adrian / Original" B) Skirt of same fabric. Straight; below knee-length. Black crepe waistband. Zipper closure with slit at hem line. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283764/
Ensemble
Ensemble consisting of: A) Jacket of black and white gingham cotton check. Bracelet length sleeves. Side front opening with 7" button extension. On left side front, there are two large circular black plastic buttons at waist and one at top button at neckline flap closure; bound buttonholes. Peter pan collar starts at piping edge of left side front and right side front. Two flap welt pockets. Back with inverted box pleat which starts open at neckline and goes to 2" above waist where it is stitched together. Side back shoulders have flanges which are basted down at bottom. Collar's, pockets', cuffs', front to back flanges hemline's and front opening's edges all bound in black satin bias tape. Lined in smaller cotton gingham check. Designer's label at inside center back neckline: "Galanos" B) Blouse of black and white, small gingham check. Center front opening with 2 (+ 1 missing) black circular plastic buttons supplemented with snaps and hook & eyes. Fitted, flared waist . Sleeveless. Collarless, slightly scooped neckline which forms a V in back. Neckline, sleeve openings and center front opening trimmed in black satin. Lined in fine white net. Designer's label on inside left seam: "Galanos" C) A-line skirt, street length, in black and white gingham cotton. Narrow waist of black grosgrain. Left side zipper. Lined in cream colored silk. d) Contour belt covered in black and white gingham check. Square buckle covered in same. Three holes. Back in light tan leather. Stamped: "Galanos Originals / Beverly Hills" e) Hat of quilted black and white gingham check. Black satin headband ties in knot on right. Crown in smaller check than brim. Brim piped in black satin and slits at right beneath headband knot. Lined in alternating triangular sections of large and small gingham check. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Galanos / 935 (handwritten)" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283773/
Hat
Hat of hot pink felt and artificial flowers. The low, cylindrical crown has a very shallow conical top, and a very narrow band of same felt around base, which ties at bow at back. The shallow brim, of the same felt, is slightly "wavy" at outer edge, and turns down slightly. Around the base of the crown, extending almost to, and in some cases past, the edge of the brim is a wreath of artificial flowers, pink roses, green and pink buds, etc., with green net veiling. Wreath covers front and sides of hat, leaving back uncovered. Hat is unlined, with a coral pink inner hatband of grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label: "Lecie / Original" Size label: "22" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283757/
Hatlet
Hatlet of brown felt. Low domed crown of the hat is encircled by a wreath of artificial velvet roses and brown ostrich feathers, overlaid with brown net veiling. The hat is unlined, with inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband, and black cord to help secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Suzy Lee / Made in / California" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283743/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of red felt. The cylindrical crown is flat at top, and encircled by matching material gathered and scrunched to create horizontal wrinkles around the crown. Set off to front right side is rosette/spiral of red feather. Lined in a silvery/gold and black fabric, and with a red grosgrain inner hatband. Maker's label inside: "Dolly Madison" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283740/
Dress
a) Dress of oatmeal colored silk with black polka dots. Six self covered buttons with covered buttonholes supplemented with snaps and hook & eyes at waist form front closure. Short, modified raglan sleeves. Bodice lined in oatmeal colored silk crepe. Gathered at hip line. Skirt supported with netting and lined in cream colored organza. Designer's label at left inside seam: "Galanos" Retailer's label at right inside seam: "Neiman-Marcus" b) Matching belt in same. Belts at natural waist in large gap between buttons. Belt in two pieces; longer piece has self covered buckles at each end and smaller piece has 3 punch holes at each end. Leather backing in natural color. Back stamped: "Galanos" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283718/
Hat
Hat of black raw silk. Pillbox style crown has spiral wrapped fabric of same on top. Three hair combs inside on black grosgrain ribbon headband. Lined in light gold fabric. Retailer's label on inside crown: "Neiman-Marcus / Made to Order" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283716/
Hat
Hat of mauve and burgundy velvet flowers with brown silk flowers at crown. Gold rhinestones accent the green velveteen leaves at brim and the silk flowers at crown. Lined in lace with cream colored grosgrain ribbon inner headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283728/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of brown velvet. The cylindrical crown is flat at top, and has slight horizontal protruding "ribs" at sides. Lined in a cream satin-finish fabric, the hat has an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283750/
Hat
Hat of finely woven off-white straw. Styled as a boater or "Pamela hat", the low domed crown is encircled at base by a wide band of off-white grosgrain ribbon with trailing ends at back right. The circular brim curves up at the outer edge. Unlined, the hat has an inner off-white grosgrain ribbon headband. Label inside: "Marian Marcia / Exclusives" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283741/
Hat
Hat of fine dark blue straw. Styled somewhat as a "sailor hat", the low, slightly domed crown is encircled by a band of matching dark blue grosgrain ribbon, with a shell-shaped decoration of the same ribbon at front left. The narrow brim is basically flat, with a slight rolled edge. The hat is unlined, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Retailer's label: "Seidenbach's / Tulsa, Oklahoma" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283755/
Hatlet
Hatlet of silver silk embellished all over with silver bugle beads. Beige veil. Lined in light rose colored fabric with rose colored grosgrain ribbon headband. Two combs attached to grosgrain ribbon at sides for securing hat to wearer's head. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283762/
Hat
Hat with high, modified toque style crown of black velvet. Brimless. Black satin trim around hat. Designer's label: Janyth Roy / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283706/
Dress
Dress of muted pink silk organza over a layer of beige taffeta with ivory Schiffli lace embroidery in a floral motif; bodice is strapless with horizontal pleating below bust and top portion is trimmed with self-embroidered lace and lattice, and has scalloped, embroidered trim at neckline; boning within; full, wide skirt is gathered into waistline and falls to below knee-length; layers of stiffened tulle support the wide silhouette; bottom of skirt is embellished with self-embroidered lace and lattice with vines of flowers trailing up to the mid-skirt; hem has scalloped, embroidered trim; left side-zip closure. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283722/
Dress
Dress of black wool with black leather trim. The street-length dress has a standup collar trimmed in snaps. Front opening is leather trimmed and has 5 self-covered snaps. Detachable front skirt panel is edged along top with black leather trim and secured with 5 self-covered snaps. Bracelet length sleeves trimmed with snaps at cuff. Back zipper. Fully lined in black satin. Handwritten label on inside back seam: "Pierre Balmain Fall 1955" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283720/
Hat
Hat of green net and artificial flowers. Formed somewhat as a Juliet cap, the net base has wire stiffened edges and forms a close, rounded crown with sections that extend down sides and back of head. The base is covered with artificial flowers (daisies or dogwood blossoms?), with green cloth stems and leaves, the blossoms with white petals and yellow centers. Unlined. With 3 black bobby-pins for securing to wearer's head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283707/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of black velvet. Small, quilted brim folds up in front and back. One, long tie string of same drapes across front brim and down sides. Black grosgrain ribbon inside hatband. Lined in black fabric. Manufacturer's label on inside hatband: "Betmar / Adj." Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Lord & Taylor / young new yorkers' / hat shop / Fifth Avenue" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283679/
Calotte Hat
Hat with calotte style crown of orange velvet. Hatband of self around crown forms one knot in front. Beige veil. Retailer's label on inside headband: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283695/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of beige and bronze velvet. The low, circular crown of bronze velvet has inter-twined bands of bronze and beige velvet around it in a draped or swagged style. At front is applied a small bow made of the two velvets. Inner hatband of beige grosgrain ribbon. Affixed to the ribbon, one at each side, is a small plastic comb to secure the hat to the wearer's hair. The hat is lined in green fabric. Glued into the crown lining is a homemade(?) hand embroidered label: "Jo Bailey Hats" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283693/
Toque Hat
Toque style hat of leopard fur. Lined in green silk. Retailer's label on inside crown: "Neiman-Marcus / Custom Made" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283665/
Hat
Hat of fine pale pink straw, pink satin, and artificial flowers. The body of the hat is of woven fine pale pink straw. The cylindrical, flat-topped crown is encircled by a wide, horizontally pleated band of pink satin. The hat has a very narrow, almost non-existent brim of the same straw. At right side of hat is a large spray of pale pink artificial flowers with green stems. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of white ribbon machine embroidered/brocaded with red and green floral motifs. Designer's label: "An Original / Phil Strann / California" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283664/
Hat
Beanie style cap of medium brown vicuna wool. Eight panel cap is accented with a stylized bow of self at the peak of the crown. Tan grosgrain sweatband. Lined in dark olive green silk faille. Retailer's label stitched inside center back, over sweatband: "A. Harris & Co. / Shop of Originals" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283674/
Hat
Hat of black panne velvet. Designed somewhat as a toque, the hat has a high, cylindrical crown which is encircled at base by a wide black velvet ribbon with bow at back and spray of black feathers extending from bow. The brim extends down at a sharp angle. Hat is unlined, with inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sew to inner hatband: "Styled by / Coralie" and "Finlan". Stamped inside crown: "Flechete / Body made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277032/
Hat
Hat of brown felt. The domed crown is "sunken" within the sides of itself, creating a wall around it. The brown felt brim extends around sides and front only, and is turned up. From the top of the brim is attached a brown net veil. Hat has an inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband, and an elasticized cord to help secure it to wearer's head. Retailer's label: "Ransohoffs / San Francisco" Label: "Mr. John" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277016/
Hatlet
Hatlet covered in white cotton pique fabric. Hatlet has two supports over back of head to bow on back. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277013/
Calotte
Hat of purple satin. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot") of purple satin with cluster of purple violets and an orchid of velvet. With a purple net veil. Lined in purple satin with a dark blue/purple grosgrain inner hatband. Accompanied by two short hatpins with matching purple velvet covered heads. Designer's label inside: "Lilyan / Originals" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277087/
Hatlet
Hatlet of multi-colored feathers. The hat is formed as a low, head-hugging dome of brown felt. This crown is completely covered with featherwork in various colors, including dyed green, red, yellow and natural brown quail(?), black and white, blue and white, and gray and white feathers. At one side is a bow of stiffened green and red velvet. The hat is unlined, with a brown grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. The hat is accompanied by two short hatpins, the heads covered with small squares of red velvet. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277039/
Hat
Pillbox hat of navy blue velvet with bow like trims of self-fabric. Open crown with navy veil over top and front. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277005/
Terno
Traditional Philippine terno ensemble of gold silk and mesh made from rengue, a stiff pineapple fiber material. A) Skirt (Saya) of stiffened gold silk with black lined embroidered circles and wavy black ribbon embellishment. Full-length, with long rectangular train in back. B) Top (camisa) of mesh pineapple fiber. Cropped-length, with wide, full, elbow-length sleeves gathered at armholes. Sleeves with circular embellishments. C) Chemise of pale orange rayon with cutwork and machine embroidery hem and neckline. Sleeveless, full-length. D) Scarf/fichu (alampay) or shawl (Panuelo) of mesh pineapple fiber with circular embellishments. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277017/
Headband
Headband of black grosgrain braid with black veil extending over front. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277090/
Hatlet
Hatlet of cream satin. The low cap, designed somewhat like a beret, is rounded and flattened, bulging at sides. No brim. At one side is a horizontal spray of fine white feathers extending back along the side of the hat. Inside of hat is lined with a golden satin, and has an off-white grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Two small plastic combs are attached to inner sides of hat to help secure it to wearer's head. Designer's label inside crown: "Neiman-Marcus / Made to Order" A price tag is attached to inner hatband, originally $7.50, reduced to 75 cents. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277040/
Shirt
Shirt of red rayon, designed as a kimono. Black band at front opening and around neckline, with white Japanese characters printed on upper section at front. The kimono has a scene of a procession by children in traditional Japanese clothing, one on horseback. At upper back is a circular printed Mon in blue and white of a trefoil leaf form. Unlined. May be a child's kimono rather than a youth's shirt. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277036/
Shirt
Child's shirt of pink rayon. Designed as a kimono, the shirt has a black band at center front opening which continues along neckline. The body of the garment is printed with multi-colored views of Japanese temples and landscapes. Maker's label inside: "Crown / Made in Japan" Size label: "M / Made in / " [cut off] This may be a child's kimono for the tourist market, rather than a youth's shirt. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277086/
Hat
Hat made from white straw. The high, cylindrical, slightly domed crown flares out slightly at bottom into an asymmetrical brim. The hat is composed of bands of 10 strands of straw that are twined and platted and woven into shape. Decorating the hat are applied small 4-petaled silk flowers placed all over. At side is a thin bow of white grosgrain ribbon. Unlined, but with an inner white grosgrain ribbon hatband. Sewn into the inner ribbon band is retailer's label, "Saks Fifth Avenue / Millinery Salon". Sewn to the back of the retailer's label is a Union Label, #DB 995583 digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277003/
Hat
Hatlet made of black silk taffeta with 5 silk leaves off front of crown and bow of self in back as trim. Black net veil interspersed with chenille balls. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277069/
Toque Hat
a) Toque of red/orange and yellow print wool. Two hatpins with spherical heads covered in material matching toque and head scarf. Lined in white with "Mr John" pattern in gold. Designer' label on inside hatband with rhinestone studded, tabbed ends: "Mr. John" b) Scarf of matching material with large square of lattice work crochet netting of red/orange in middle of scarf to provide veiled effect. Designer's label: "Mr. John" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277084/
Calotte
Hat of very pale green felt and beading. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), with slightly shaped crown embellished with scattered transparent gray beads, pearl beads, and rhinestones. Unlined. Inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Henrys / Dallas Henrys has been identified alternately as maker or retailer. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277053/
Hat
Hatlet of three black velvet rings over black net embellished with rhinestones. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277079/
Capulet Hat
Capulet style hat of red silk faille with 3 folds of self on either side. Red, slightly stiffened nose veil. Designers label: "MR. JOHN" Measurements: (Veil not included in measurements) L: 13 cm W: 49 cm H: 11 cm digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277080/
Calotte
Hat of sequins and beading. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot") with shaped crown covered in iridescent sequins of light blues, with a large flower-head on either side embellished with pale blue and white sequins, gray bead, and pearls. The petals of the flowers extend below edge of crown. Overlaid with pale blue light mesh veil. Lined in lace. Designer's label inside: "A / Frances & Walter Nelkin / Hat", with a red sequin sewn in each upper corner of label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277046/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of black cabochons and bugle beads. Black velvet piping at edges. Lined in black netting. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277099/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of black satin. Bow of black satin as trim. Net at back of hat. Hatpin with head covered in matching satin. Lined. Comb at inside front of hat for securing hat to wearer's head. Retailer's label: "A. Harris & Co. / Dallas" Union/size label to right of retailer's label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277085/
Headband
Headband hatlet made of black straw bow alternating with black silk bow in layers. Veil with chenille balls in diagonal pattern. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277048/
Hat
Red leaf hat. Rounded conical hat of netting partly covered with red and pink silk leaves. Inside the hat, which has aspects of both a cloche and a toque, at the base of the crown, is a band of red grosgrain ribbon. Sewn into the ribbon band is designer's label: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277030/