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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Decade: 1950-1959
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Daytime Ensemble - Dress and Jacket

Daytime Ensemble - Dress and Jacket

Date: 1950~
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Daytime ensemble of brown silk consisting of: A) Dress. Below-knee length, the dress has princess seaming to create fitted bodice, with wide V-neckline, 3/4" shoulder straps and straight skirt. 1" belt of self fabric from front darts to center back. Center back zipper. Unlined. Designer's label: "Christian Dior Original / Made in U.S.A. / Christian Dior - New York Inc." Retailer's label: "Harzfeld's / Kansas City" B) Jacket. Cropped jacket is pleated in front and back to a 3" waistband on which are three brass buttons 1/2" wide, and bound buttonholes. Long sleeves with 1-1/2" cuffs and one matching button per sleeve. Band collar has 10" tie ends and L-shaped lapel. Unlined.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Suit - Jacket and Skirt

Suit - Jacket and Skirt

Date: 1953
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Day suit of royal blue linen consisting of: A) Blazer. Single breasted with 4 circular, blue plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Release tucks at bust line. Notched collar; hip length. Long, set-in sleeves with turned-back cuffs. Flap pockets at sides. Lined in matching blue silk jacquard with "Christian Dior" woven design. Designer's label at right side seam: "Christian Dior-New York / Original / *Trade Mark" Retailer's label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus" B) Skirt in straight style. Left side zipper with 3 hook & eyes. Center back 12" pleat. Unlined.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pillbox Hat

Pillbox Hat

Date: 1955~
Creator: unknown
Description: Pillbox hat of off-white linen(?) formed as a short cylinder with flattened top, somewhat sunken around edges and slightly domed at center. The whole is overlaid with an off-white net veil to which are affixed scattered small "puffs", and four large satin cording devices shaped as looped bows or modified trefoils. Hat is unlined, allowing woven straw base to show, and has inner off-white grosgrain ribbon hat band.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Toque

Toque

Date: 1955~
Creator: unknown
Description: Toque hat of black fur felt. Trimmed with wide black (faux?) snakeskin belt with large round buckle covered in same. Unlined, with black grosgrain ribbon headband. Label sewn to headband: "Walker-Marr / Dallas"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1953
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Skirt suit. A) Jacket of black boucle wool. Long, set-in sleeves with hem edged in black satin. Turn-back collar, black satin revers. Four front patch pockets with flaps trimmed in black satin and one circular black satin-covered button on each pocket. Lined in black silk satin. Combined designer's/retailer's label at inside back collar: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Blouse of black satin. Piped around jewel neckline and sleeveless armholes. 2" waistband ties at left side. Zipper closure from hem partway up left side. Center back opening with 2 hook & loops. Unlined. Six elastic loops around hem to attach to skirt. No labels in blouse. C) Skirt of black boucle wool. Mid-length; 4 gored with two zippers at waist creating a "front flap" which also secures with two tabs at waistband, each tab secured with two hook-and-eyes. Four buttons at waistband which secure to loops on hem of blouse. Lined in black silk. No labels found in skirt.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pillbox Hat

Pillbox Hat

Date: 1955~
Creator: Charles, D.
Description: Pillbox hat of black cotton(?). The cylindrical crown is mostly flattened at top, with diamond-shaped patches of same fabric attached at sides, overlapping top and bottom. Patches are outlined in black faceted beads. The hat is lined in black fabric, and has inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label inside: "Design By / d. charles"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Day Dress

Day Dress

Date: 1959
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: (A) Day dress of heavy black silk crepe. Mid-calf length. Rounded neckline, the upper bodice formed as a wide circular panel that becomes shoulders. "Waistline" of skirt starts across at armpits, and hangs down with 4 gore full bias skirt. Center back opening with three 1" circular self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes. Unlined Combined Designer's / Retailer's label at inside seam of skirt near hem: "Neiman-Marcus dallas / Traina-Norell" (B) Tie belt of self attached to dress. 1-1/2" wide with pointed ends
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cape Dress

Cape Dress

Date: 1958
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Dress of heavy beige wool tweed in the form of a modified cape. A) Dress inspired by Norell's capes. Mid-length, with rounded, jewel neckline. Slit openings for arms. Two large patch pockets at front. Center back closure with 5 large circular self-covered buttons, bound buttonholes, and two hidden snaps at collar. Opening stops 14" from lower hem. Lined with beige silk crepe. B) Slip of beige silk crepe. Mid-length. Wide shoulder straps with square neckline. Center back zipper closure with hook & eye. Combined designer's/retailer's label sewn inside at back near hem, above split: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1955~
Creator: Garnett, Eleanora
Description: Hat of off-white fur felt. The crown of the hat is shaped as low, domed tear-drop, the point curving down along the back of the wearer's head. The tightly rolled brim follows the shape of the crown, and creates a "tail" at back of head. The hat has an inner off-white grosgrain ribbon hatband, and a black elastic back-strap to help secure it to wearer's head. Accompanied by two hatpins, the heads covered with matching felt. Designer's label: "E Garnett / Italian Made / Imported Original"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1955~
Creator: Garnett, Eleanora
Description: Hat of brown/burnt ocher fur felt. The hat is designed with a low, domed, saucer-shaped crown set into the wide, downwards-curving bowl-shaped brim of same material. The hat rests on the head with an inner ring which extends down from crown, and has an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. At sides are black grosgrain covered clips to help secure hat to wearer's head, and a black elastic strap to secure hat around back of wearer's head. With two hatpins, the heads covered with matching fur felt. Designer's label inside: "Eleanora Garnett / Italian Made / Imported Original"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1955~
Creator: Asbury Millinery Co.
Description: Hat of black straw. The hat is formed as a wide, shallow domed crown, overlaid with "fringe" sewn in a dense spiral from the top center rosette, creating tiers/layers. Brimless, the crown rests on the head, with black straw covered arched bands to help secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label inside: "Lee Bury / Hats / of Dallas"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Picture Hat

Picture Hat

Date: 1959
Creator: Dellar, Ian
Description: Picture hat of finely woven black straw. The low, domed crown is encircled at base by a 1" black velvet hatband. The wide, circular brim of the same straw is edged in a narrow band of black velvet and has a slightly wavy rim. The brim is overlaid by black tulle; at the front is a cluster of artificial flowers of pinks and peach silk organza and velvet, and sprigs of smaller flowers. The hat is unlined, with an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label inside: "Model / Mr. Iaan / Vancouver, B.C.", with a tiny artificial violet blossom attached to top of label.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Toque

Toque

Date: 1955~
Creator: Sharon Originals
Description: Toque of black velour, velvet, and silk. Cylindrical black velour crown, the top sunken and with slightly domed center. Around crown is wide pleated band of black silk, with seven diagonally placed black velvet long, narrow leaf shaped pieces of black velvet across the band. Unlined, with inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label at inside hatband: "Sharon / Originals" Stamped inside crown: "Genuine / Imported Velour" Accompanied by "Goldsmith's" hat box and receipt.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cap

Cap

Date: 1955~
Creator: Christine
Description: Cap of black velvet and feathers. Styled somewhat as a "newsboy cap", or a pillbox with a brim, the cylindrical black velvet crown bulges slightly at sides. At front, extending slightly to sides, is black visor of same velvet, angled downwards, edged with black grosgrain ribbon. The visor is covered with fan sprays of multicolored small feathers in browns, tans, and creams, with black edging. Centered with a black grosgrain ribbon bow. Crown is lined in multicolored brocade fabric with scrolling foliate and floral forms. Inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label at inside hatband: "Christine / Original" Received in a period hatbox labeled "Levy's".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1950/1959
Creator: unknown
Description: Hat of brown fur and leather. The cylindrical light brown leather crown is encircled by large open circular band of brown fur (mink?) oriented to create diagonal stripes. At base of crown is band of same leather, tied into flat bow at back with trailing ends. Lined in reddish/brown lace, and with two small combs to secure to wearer's head. No labels in hat.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pumps

Pumps

Date: [1955..1959]
Creator: Herbert Levine
Description: Pair of pumps of purple satin. The shoes are designed with sharply pointed toes, and a gently squared vamp, across which is a large bow of the same satin. The sides are cut slightly lower, and the stiletto heels are covered in same fabric, flaring slightly to base. Maker's label stamped inside: "Herbert Levine" Retailer's label stamped inside: "Neiman Marcus" Handwritten inside: "6 AAA 18828 9913-8LZ"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Coat Dress

Coat Dress

Date: 1955~
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Coat dress of black silk taffeta jacquard-woven with supplemental pile design in the weft. Black buttons down front. Flaring skirt. A) Coat dress of black silk taffeta with off-white fuzzy woven-in polka dots. Calf-length(? - depends on petticoats), with a small modified "Peter Pan" turn-down collar, which has attached front bias bands to tie into bow at front of collar. 3/4-length set-in sleeves. Center front opening with 16 black circular plastic buttons, hidden snaps at waist and throat, and hook-and-eye at waist. Full, flaring skirt with 13 gores. Unlined. Combined Designer's/Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Belt of matching fabric, backed with black leather. Narrow, with rectangular buckle covered in same fabric. Stamped on reverse: "30+"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pillbox Hat

Pillbox Hat

Date: 1959
Creator: Arlington Hats
Description: Pillbox hat of royal blue velvet. The low, cylindrical crown has a flattened top with a self-covered domed button at top center, and one large horizontal "tuck" around the side forming two sections. The whole is overlaid with a navy blue net veil. Lined in black, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Maker's label inside: "Arlington / Hats / Dallas"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pillbox Hat

Pillbox Hat

Date: 1950
Creator: unknown
Description: Pillbox of navy blue velvet. The low, cylindrical crown is flattened at top, and surrounded by gathers of same cloth "banded" by vertical loops of dark blue satin braiding creating two horizontal bands. Hat is lined in dark blue netting, and was designed with two small combs to help secure it to wearer's head, one now missing. Retailer's label inside: "Harold's / Minneapolis".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte

Calotte

Date: 1953
Creator: unknown
Description: Calotte of off-white satin. The calotte (also spelled "calot") has a domed crown covered with horizontally pleated off-white satin, and comes to points at temples. On right point is a large flower-like puff of same material. Hat is unlined, allowing stiffened white net under-structure to be seen. Hat has inner off-white grosgrain hatband and a small comb to help secure it to wearer's head.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1953
Creator: Vallé, Marion
Description: Hat of gray and natural straw. The low, domed crown is of a dark blue-gray woven straw, encircled at the base by a band of red velvet ribbon that forms a bow at front and has trailing ends at back. The wide brim of the same dark blue-gray straw is oval, set so sides are wider than front/back edges. Over the brim is a smaller oval panel of natural woven straw, giving the effect of a second, smaller brim. The hat is unlined, with dark blue-gray grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label on inner hatband: "Marion Vallé / New York". Retailer's label on inner hatband: "Gus Mayer / Co. Ltd."
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte

Calotte

Date: 1957
Creator: unknown
Description: Hat of gray woven straw. Hat styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot") with wide woven bands of dark and light gray straw forming an illusion of massed dark gray flowers with scattered light gray blossoms. Constructed as an open center ring, the crown is domed, with a wavy lower edge along front and beginning of sides. Front of hat is overlaid with grey net veil with three small gray ribbon bows along upper edge. Accompanied by a single grey-headed hatpin.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte

Calotte

Date: 1952
Creator: Mye, Edna
Description: Red velvet calotte. Hat styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), or modified Juliet cap, with low domed crown, straight across back edge, rounded at sides, and with scalloped edge at front. Along lower edge at sides and front is double strand of black silk(?) braided rope, with matching tassels hanging between lobes of scallops. Lined in a woven gold lamé-type material. Designer's label sewn inside: "Edna Mye / Dallas"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Mules

Mules

Date: [1950..1980]
Creator: unknown
Description: Mules of red leather. The backless shoes are designed with pointed toe, squared at tip, and with rounded vamp. At top of vamp on each shoe is a large flattened sphere of same leather. Platform/sole of white leather. The low, set-in heels taper to base, and are covered in same red leather. Stamped on insole: "Hand made in Spain / Simorettes / World famous kid" Stamped on sole: "8 1/2"; "N"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design