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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Decade: 1950-1959
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Calotte
Calotte of black straw and black velvet. The calotte (also spelled "calot") has a low, domed black velvet crown overlaid with a "pinwheel" made of large woven black straw triangles. At top of crown is a maroon velvet cord knot. Hat is lined in dark blue, with a dark blue/black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label: "Sally V / Designed by Sally Victor" Retailer's label: "Titche-Goettinger Co / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305387/
Picture Hat
Picture hat of black felt. Low, domed crown of black felt, encircled at base by band of black felt with large white rose of white fabric at front left. The wide brim has a shallow curve downwards, and is edged with a wide band of off-white twill. The crown of the hat is unlined; the underside of the brim has concentric bands of off-white twill. The inner hatband is of black grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label: "Mae Kelley / Exclusive Hand Made Hats / Whittier, Calif." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305362/
Hat
Hat of black felt. Styled as a modified boater or "Pamela hat", the domed crown is encircled at base with a wide band of black grosgrain ribbon. The brim curves up sharply, forming a "wall" around the crown. The hat is unlined. Felt maker's label: "Glenover / Fawntra-Felt / Henry Pollak Inc / New York / 100% Wool" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305403/
Hatlet
Hatlet of black velvet. The low, domed crown is edged with a stiffened coil of the same fabric, with a straight piece of same across the front. Lined in a black satin, with an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband, and a small plastic comb to help secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Kay & Guy / Anderson / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305417/
Hatlet
Hatlet of black fur felt (beaver?). The shallow domed crown is overlaid with strips of the same fur felt, edged with black satin. One strip crosses front from side to side, and one small strip goes along each side, and where they cross they form a bow-shaped motif on each side. Unlined, with a red grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. With a single black bead headed hatpin. Stamped inside crown: "Flaminsol / Imported" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305402/
Hatlet
Hatlet of fine woven dark blue straw. Low, flattened crown is in the form of a "pancake" hat, with a dark blue velvet bow at front and a small dark blue velvet "button" at back. Designer's label: "Sally V / Designed by Sally Victor" Retailer's label: "Titche Goettinger Co. / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305346/
Hat
Hat of sherry black straw (artificial?). Crown is flat-topped and cylindrical. The brim is turned up against the sides of the crown, and has a textured black vinyl bow applied at front. The hat is unlined, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label: "Gladys & Belle / 20 West 57th St. New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305333/
Pillbox Hat
Small pillbox of off-white pleated satin. The low crown is flat, and formed of spirally pleated/overlapped satin, the sides with similarly pleated horizontal band. Lined with off-white netting, and with a white velvet inner hatband. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" Accompanied by a single pearl-headed hatpin. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305351/
Hat
Hat of black felt. Wide, flat brim with trim of self around crown. Two ties of self for securing hat to wearer's head. Lined in black netting with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Made to Order" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305397/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox style hat of black velvet with 1/2" downward brim. Twisted black satin hatband encircling crown. Large rhinestone ball with encircled with pearls in center front as trim. Lined in black satin with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Manufacturer's label: "Stephen Anne / Custom Made" Retailer's label: "Millinery - Salon / White House / Beaumont" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305327/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of dark violet velvet. Four light violet and four dark violet "leaves" as trim around crown. Veil of purple netting over front of hat. Lined in purple net. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305334/
Calotte Hat
Calotte of navy straw cloth. Small upturned brim is separate from crown and forms Vs at sides. Pale pink rose with green leaves on left front as trim with navy veil embellished with rhinestones. Lined in navy satin. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305337/
Hatlet
Hatlet of four ultramarine velvet bows. Open crown, wire frame structure covered in matching material. Entire hat covered with matching veil. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305335/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of deep red velour with four bows of self around edge of crown. Lined in red netting. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305360/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of black plastic woven fabric with silver flecks; edged in black velvet piping. Two loops of self with rhinestones and two pom-poms on front left side. Black net veil. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305352/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of black velvet with black pleated satin coil wrapping around brim of hat. Two vertical bands of rhinestones embellish left and right front of hat. Retailer's label on inside headband: "The Fair / Fort Worth" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305395/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of stiffened black woven fabric. One black velvet bow in the back and alternating black woven and black velvet "half bows" around edge of crown. Black veil in front. Retailer's label on inside crown: "The Fair / Fort Worth" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305391/
Hat
Hat of navy blue woven straw and mesh. Designed somewhat as a modified sailor or "Pamela" hat, the high crown is domed at top, and encircled at the base with a mesh band that forms a bow at side. The brim is of navy blue mesh, turning up at outer edge. The outer "walls" formed by the turned-up area is covered in the same woven straw as the crown. Hat is unlined, allowing net understructure to be seen, and has a pink grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305343/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of cream satin entirely covered with beading and rhinestones. The low, circular crown is covered in a ground of silver/white sequins with scattered fuchsia and clear rhinestones and light blue beads. At top of crown is central rosette with central fuchsia stone surrounded by a ring of clear stones. Retailer's labels inside: "Neiman-Marcus / Made to order"; "Made in France for / Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286891/
Skirt Suit
Ecru worsted wool two-piece suit. A: Jacket with center front opening with four beige plastic buttons with bound button holes, first two spread apart by 2" next two spread apart by 10". Collared. Motif of concentric arced inserts, 1.175" wide each, starting from shoulder point, arcing down past second button. This upside down arc repeats on the back with a rainbow meeting the shoulder's center. On front, two more arc inserts motif repeat, with the rainbow arc stretching over the smaller reversed arc between the sections of buttons. One-piece set in sleeves with double elbow darts. Lined in beige silk faille. Retailer's label at center back collar: "Neiman-Marcus" Designer's Label at front right jacket lining: "Adrian / Original" B: Unlined A-line skirt of same fabric with lapped zipper covered by triangle pointed waistband tip on the left side. Waistband 1 3/8" wide. Four darts total, two in front, two in back. Pinked edge to seam allowances. Hem tape attached to 3" wide hem edge with machine stitch, tape hand based to inside of skirt with blind hem (slip stitch) stitch. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286913/
Ensemble
Ensemble. A) Brown sheath dress of lace with floral motif, heavily hand beaded with tiny brown beads. Mid-length, scooped neckline, deeper in back. Sleeveless, with narrow straps. Slightly shaped hem. Inner brown satin lining sheath. Design house's label inside: "Mingolini Gugenheim / Piazza di Spagna 9-91- Roma" B) Brown sheer organza coat, mid-length, shawl collar, center front opening fastened by belt. mid-length sleeves. Leather belt built into waistline, covered with organza, the hook buckles covered in brown beading as dress. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286803/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of woven black/dark navy shiny straw. The low, cylindrical crown is woven to create horizontal ridges around hat. Inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Retailer's label: "Volk / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286811/
Turban
Turban of black satin. The low crown has pleating running lengthwise along crown, gathering at front where it is embelished with a crescent-shaped pin of various sized clear rhinestones. Inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label: "Shelia / the perfect hat / Chicago" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286825/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of light brown mink. The low, circular crown is made of mink tails arranged in a pinwheel design, radiating from center of the flat top of the crown. Lined in mesh and a brocade floral fabric. Inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. No labels in garment. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286801/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black straw. The low, cylindrical crown of black woven straw has a flat top, slightly recessed, forming a ridge around outer edge. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286906/
Turban
Turban style hat of pale pink velvet with braided pink velvet around edge. Two iridescent rhinestone and faceted jewel pins trim front. Lined in pink net. Two combs at sides for securing hat to wearer's head. Maker's label on inside back of hat: "An Original / Mr. Stanley / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286799/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of pale olive green felt with multicolored pheasant feathers on the left front. Double rolls of same felt form edge of hat which cross at front where meets feather trim. Net veil on front. Two hatpins with heads of matching felt. Unlined with inner headband of light gray/green grosgrain ribbon. Maker's label on inside inner headband: "Frances / Dallas, Texas" Paper tag attached to inner headband at back of hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286831/
Hat
Hat of bright yellow straw in mushroom style. 1" crown and 5" brim (turned down). Yellow, white silk flowers and green leaves as trim around crown. Wire hair clips underneath. Unlined with yellow grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Tag on inner headband: "Adjustable" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286783/
Picture Hat
Picture of "skimmer" hat of off-white or cream lace. Very shallow crown with low dome, encircled by an off-white velvet ribbon 1/2" wide, with trailing ends. Wide, circular brim is set off-center, wider (6") at front than back (4"), and curving downwards slightly. Lined in a similar color net/mesh, the underside has an inner stiffened structure edged with velvet ribbon, with extending wired triangular areas to help secure hat to wearer's head. No labels in hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286807/
Picture Hat
Picture hat of black straw. Domed crown with uneven top, encircled at base of crown with black velvet 1/2" wide ribbon with trailing ends. Circular brim is set off-center so that it is deeper at front (7") than back (4 1/2", and curves downwards. Unlined, with inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Only label in hat is size label: "Medium". Accompanied by a simple short hatpin with black head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286933/
Toque
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286828/
Hatlet
Hatlet of navy blue ribbed fabric. The hatlet is formed of plated fabric, layered and curved around to form the low crown. At front is a bow of same grosgrain-type fabric. With navy blue net veiling. Retailer's label: "Lou Lattimore / Dallas" With Union Label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286778/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox of beige linen. The low, cylindrical crown is plain, with slight "lapped" edge at bottom. Lined in a fabric with golden threads, edged with gold rickrack. Inner white grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label: "by Derrieux" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286882/
Hat
Hat of off-white cord-work. Constructed on a stiffed base of off-white mesh, the crown is styled as a modified, over-sized pillbox, with a shallow domed shape. The crown is entirely covered in cord-work and knit ribbon of off-white, forming a dense ground. At top of crown is a finial composed of beige flattened spheroid shapes attached to cords. The hat is unlined, and has a beige grosgrain ribbon inner hatband, with two small plastic combs to help secure hat to wearer's head. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286854/
Hat
Hat of black straw. The hat is designed with a flat-top, cylindrical crown encircled by a wide band of off-white grosgrain ribbon, folded in half lengthwise, and by a wide band of black grosgrain ribbon which is tied at back in a large bow. The narrow brim, of same straw, is wider at front than back, and angles downwards steeply. Retailer's labe: "Volk". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286815/
Calotte
Calotte of navy blue felt. The calotte (also spelled "calot") is designed as a low domed crown of navy blue felt constructed of 6 graduated layers. At left side is a large bow of same felt. The hat is lined in white floral mesh lace, and has a navy blue grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286871/
Headpiece
Headpiece of off-white satin. Designed as an open oval ring, the headpiece is made of a 1 inch wide stuffed headring overlaid with a veil of black net with embroidered floral forms. The veil extends down at front, and is gathered at sides. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286932/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black velvet. The somewhat large, flat-topped crown is slightly conical, and with no decoration; it has an inner green grosgrain ribbon hatband. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286866/
Hatlet
Hatlet of black velvet/velour. Constructed as a shallow domed crown, extends out in a sweeping curve at side which curls up around temple, the hatlet is self-lined. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286903/
Hat
Hat of black velour. The crown has a shallow cone at top, a slight protruding upper edge, and cylindrical sides. At the point of the crown is a cord button and band which extendst over left side and ends in a gilt metal pendant ornament. Hat is unlined, and has a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label: "Ranél Original" Stamped label of felt maker: "Opera / Imported / Velour / Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286782/
Hat
Hat of black velvet. Soft cylindrical crown has a flattened top, and is encircled at base by a band of black grosgrain ribbon, tied into a bow at side and with trailing ends. Almost circular brim is split at right side, curves down somewhat, and is enhanced by concentric rows of top-stiching. The underside of the brim is lined in white. Designer's label: "Betmar" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286863/
Pillbox Hat
Large pillbox hat of off-white satin. 3 1/2" high cylindrical crown has a sunken, flattened top, encircled with a 1" wide band of off-white satin, with a flat bow at center back. Edges slightly "waved", being deeper over ears than front and back. The whole is overlaid with off-white net veil which secures to center of crown and extends about 2" below lower edge of hat. Lined in off-white satin, with off-white grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286832/
Hat
Hat of pink fur felt. Designed as a modified sailor or "Pamela" hat, the domed crown is set within "walls" formed by the steeply upturned brim. At front of hat on outside of brim is an ornate bow made of various shades and widths of grosgrain ribbon. The hat is unlined, but the underside of the brim is of the same fur felt. There is an inner hatband of pink grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label: "Kay & Guy / Anderson / New York" Retailer's label: "Gus Mayer / Co. Ltd." Felt maker's stamp: "Mousse / HB / Body Made In France": Size label: "22" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286836/
Headband
Headband of navy blue net. The headband is formed as a wide, long rectangle of navy blue mesh which is worn across head, on forehead and low at back, tied with dark navy blue velvet ribbon ties. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286910/
Cap
Cap of dark navy blue velvet. Designed with a domed crown which slopes out to front to form a visor/brim, and extends down slightly further in back than front. Lined in dark blue satin, and with an inner hatband of dark blue velvet. Retailer's stamp on hatband, partly illegible: "Neiman Marcus Co. / New York Dallas " Size label: "ADJ." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286796/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black and gray fine plaid. The cylindrical crown is flattened at top, and has sides with horizontal pleats of same material. At front of hat is a self-covered circular button. Lined with a gold damask/brocade fabric, trimmed with gold cord edging at inner edge. Maker's label: "Henrys / Dallas" Accompanied by one hatpin, the head covered with black cloth. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286894/
Calotte
Calotte of beige fabric, heavily beaded. The calotte (also spelled "calot") is constructed with a low, domed crown of stiffened net and beige fabric, with areas that extend down at sides and back. The whole is covered with clear sequins, yellow rhinestones, bugle beads, small metal strips, etc. The hat has an inner peach/beige grosgrain ribbon hatband, and four small metal loops sewn in to use to attach to wearer's head with bobby pins. Designer's label: "Gilbert Orcel / 5 Rue de Cirque Paris (8º)" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286780/
Ensemble
Ensemble consisting of: A) Jacket of black and white gingham cotton check. Bracelet length sleeves. Side front opening with 7" button extension. On left side front, there are two large circular black plastic buttons at waist and one at top button at neckline flap closure; bound buttonholes. Peter pan collar starts at piping edge of left side front and right side front. Two flap welt pockets. Back with inverted box pleat which starts open at neckline and goes to 2" above waist where it is stitched together. Side back shoulders have flanges which are basted down at bottom. Collar's, pockets', cuffs', front to back flanges hemline's and front opening's edges all bound in black satin bias tape. Lined in smaller cotton gingham check. Designer's label at inside center back neckline: "Galanos" B) Blouse of black and white, small gingham check. Center front opening with 2 (+ 1 missing) black circular plastic buttons supplemented with snaps and hook & eyes. Fitted, flared waist . Sleeveless. Collarless, slightly scooped neckline which forms a V in back. Neckline, sleeve openings and center front opening trimmed in black satin. Lined in fine white net. Designer's label on inside left seam: "Galanos" C) A-line skirt, street length, in black and white gingham cotton. Narrow waist of black grosgrain. Left side zipper. Lined in cream colored silk. d) Contour belt covered in black and white gingham check. Square buckle covered in same. Three holes. Back in light tan leather. Stamped: "Galanos Originals / Beverly Hills" e) Hat of quilted black and white gingham check. Black satin headband ties in knot on right. Crown in smaller check than brim. Brim piped in black satin and slits at right beneath headband knot. Lined in alternating triangular sections of large and small gingham check. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Galanos / 935 (handwritten)" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283773/
Ensemble
Ensemble of blue silk crepe with black and white print, consisting of: A) Tunic top of silk crepe. Short, bat wing sleeves with insert of black, rectangular material at shoulder line. Mock V-neck opening backed with same material and ties of self. Center back zipper. Unlined. Designer's label at back zipper: "Adrian / Original" B) Skirt of same fabric. Straight; below knee-length. Black crepe waistband. Zipper closure with slit at hem line. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283764/
Skirt Suit
Navy blue two-piece skirt suit of wool consisting of: A. Fitted jacket with Peter Pan collar. Tab at top of jacket under neck extends two inches past center and buttons on left side with two round buttons. Jacket center opening has one hook at center and one button at waist. Full-length sleeves made in one piece with jacket front and back. Gusset under arm for ease of movement. Right sleeve is decorated with blue and grey stripe pattern which extends up sleeve and across onto tab. Vertical stripe starts from back waist and runs down front, forming plaid at shoulder and is gathered into a narrow band at waist. Stripe continues to hem of jacket and has fold of striped fabric coming from under band to form scarf-like effect. Back is made in 6 sections with plaid design at shoulder and stripes running horizontally and vertically and ending before the absolute center. Band at waist is continued on back right, but does not reach jacket center. Inside lined with blue silk. Designer's label at center back inside neck: "Adrian / Original" Retailer's label along left inside flap of opening: "The Fashion / Ben Wolfman Inc. / Houston" Label for original owner(?): "TJ McBryde" B: Blue straight skirt with hook and snap closure at left side of waistband and zipper fly. Grey stripe pattern starts at hip area and continues around skirt, not meeting at back center. Vertical stripes fall from right side, forming plaid at intersection of other stripe, and continues to hem. Front center has kick pleat. Skirt does not have label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283768/