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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Decade: 1940-1949
 Year: 1940
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Day Dress
Daytime dress of navy blue silk crepe in modified shirtwaist style. Yoked shoulders with collar. Inner neckline has 7 small mother-of-pearl buttons for additional detachable collar to drape over existing collar. Center front opening with 6 large 1-1/4" mother of pearl buttons with vertical buttonholes. Long set-in sleeves with matching button at cuff. Evidence of smocking below waist seam, but threading is missing. Street length. Unlined. Designer's label at right seam near hem: "Traina-Norell / New York" b) Contour belt of navy leather. Wider at ends with rectangular buckle covered in same. Back stamped "14". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402484/
Headpiece
Headpiece of black satin. Headpiece formed as an openwork braided cylinder made of three thick black satin segments. Black grosgrain ribbon inner band, to which is sewn a brown plastic comb to help fasten hat to wearer's head. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286945/
Cap
Cap of dark gray wool. The cap is styled as a Garrison Cap (aka Side Cap, or Wedge Cap). Influenced by military headgear, this hat is constructed as a flat envelope, which opens along long edge to form a wedge-shaped crown. Running width-wise across crown is a band of the same fabric with parallel lines of top-stitching in white thread. Lined in a dark gray fabric. No labels in hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286928/
Skirt Suit
Two-piece skirt suit of tan, lightly striped, possibly synthetic material. The jacket is a tailored shell with high rounded neckline and square spread collar. Full-length set-in sleeves. constructed in one piece with darts at the elbows. Center front closure from the neck to hip line with four bound buttonholes with corresponding brown tortoise shell buttons. Bound hip pockets with flaps. The jacket front is intricately pieced. Fully lined in light brown crepe. Designer's label stitched along inside of right front opening: "Adrian / Original" The skirt is narrow, knee-length, with knee-level kick pleat. The skirt is darted into a narrow waistband, and has a left side seam zipper closure from waist to hip line. Lapped closure with single hook&eye and hook&bar. Unlined with turned back hem. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283771/
Jacket
Jacket of navy blue wool crepe. Asymmetrically trimmed with pleated band falling from right shoulder, secured with white buckle at waistline. Self belt at waist with matching white buckle. Long sleeved with pleated diagonal at lower right sleeve. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283688/
Evening Dress
Evening dress of black heavy crepe with rows of looped accents at neckline, left sleeve, left hip and on draped band below left hip. Two hanging tabs from right waistline. Sheath silhouette. Pointed collar with open slit. Long sleeves with small zippers at cuffs. Full length with vent at center front. Center back zipper closure. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283672/
Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of brownish grey worsted wool in black, white, and warm grey. Jacket of self-worsted wool with notched collar and rounded lapels that extend beyond collar; open front trimmed in half-circle lapels at opening with brass disc button accents; 4 buttons on each side decreasing in diameter to bottom; wide, elbow-length sleeves with 3” cuffs; small shoulder pads within; fully lined in brown chiffon; waist-length. Skirt of matching self-worsted wool is gored with long reverse pleat at center-front surrounded by 2 shorter reverse pleats at each side; slight A-line; hits below knees. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original" Original customer label(?): "James L. Courtney" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283697/
Hat
Hat of black, white, red, and ocher silk styled as a Garrison Cap (aka Side Cap, or Wedge Cap). Influenced by military headgear, this hat is constructed as a flat envelope, which opens along long edge to form a wedge-shaped crown. The cap is dyed in the Shibori technique, forming intricate designs outlined in white and filled in with red or ocher dots. Lined in black silk. Designer's label inside: "3410 Oak Lawn / Bernie A. Cahn / Dallas, Tex." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277011/
Hat
Hat of fine black balibuntal straw lined with black velvet. Medium high crown with black velvet band typing in large soft bow. Brim uneven, very narrow in back, widening at sides and fullest at left front. Headband of black velvet with large bow of same side back. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277077/
Hat
Safari-like hat of olive green with four-sectioned crown. Green grosgrain ribbon and bow as trim. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Unlined with grosgrain headband. Stamp on inside headband: "Made in France Especially for / Best & Co." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276991/
Hat
Hat of brown felt in modified beret-style. Crown is draped with a band of pearls as trim on right side. Unlined with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Maker's label: "Haute Mode / Michèle / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277119/
Picture Hat
Picture hat of reddish brown straw. Low, cylindrical, slightly tilted crown is flattened at top and encircled at base by wide gray grosgrain ribbon which divides into three tiers of streamers cascading at back. Wide floppy brim. Reddish brown inner grosgrain ribbon hatband and black elastic cord to secure to wearer's head. Designer's label at inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / INC." Retailer's label at inner hatband: "Neiman Marcus Co. / New York Dallas Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277133/
Hat
Peaked Dutch-type bonnet of rough black straw with two bands of embroidered organdy and lace across forehead. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Unlined. Designer's label: "été 1940 / Schiaperelli / 21, Place Vendôme Paris" Label under designer's label: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114860/
Hat
Afternoon hat of crushed and draped velvet. Brim of dark purple, crown of wine. Purple brim extends to point at side. Self cording trim. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Lined in wine colored silk. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Marguerite & Leonie / 4 . Rue des Carucines" Label attached below designer's label: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114881/
Hat
Hat in modified sailor style of navy blue straw. Medium height crown is domed at top and has straight front edge and rounded back edge. Around the crown is a wide band of black grosgrain ribbon with flat bow at back. Brim is circular, set off-center so more brim is at front of hat than back. Hat is unlined, with black grosgrain band around inside of crown. Affixed at inside back of hat is small puff of black netting. Affixed to inner band is elastic loop to secure to wearer's head. Designer's label at inside lower edge of crown: "Germaine Montabert" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114822/
Hat
Hat of dark brown suede with brown mink trim on heart shaped, upturned brim. Two pins with square shaped suede covered ends. Comb on inside, front hatband for securing hat to wearer's head. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114847/
Hat
Toque of multicolor striped velvet in shades of dark blue, red, green and yellow. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Estelle Peters / 50 E. 56th St. N.Y." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114812/
Hat
Hat of tan felt. Style resembles a garrison cap. Inner headband of dark brown grosgrain ribbon. Unlined. Maker's label on inside headband: "Jacqueline / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114801/
Hat
Cocktail hat of pink horsehair. The hat is formed of a flat circular tan straw crown completely covered with woven pink horsehair faille formed as layers of ruffles. The whole is mounted at an angle to a circular ring covered in pink satin. No labels on hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114821/
Hat
Hat of green pleated, nubbed cloth. All-over pleats connect on crown under large, round covered button in same. Wide hatband of self makes double bow on back. Hatpin with pearl head. Inside headband of green grosgrain ribbon. Lined in cream colored silk. Could be called a flower-pot or mushroom style hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114735/
Hat
Hat of brown straw with high crown surrounded with beige feathers and a pink satin bow on side. Narrow brim. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Unlined with grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Maker's label: "an original / Vogue Hat / by Garfunkel" Handwritten style number(?) on inner headband: "59.397" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114790/
Hat
Hat of brown felt with beaver trim. Front resembles toque style and is covered in fur. Crown is a scull cap of brown felt with extension in back and fan-shaped, piped stitching. Free form bow of felt covered wire at front. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114729/
Hat
Hat of ultramarine blue felt. Based on a top hat, the cylindrical high crown has an undulating upper edge. Small brim curls up at front and sides, but curls down at back, ending in a point. Around base of crown is wide blue grosgrain ribbon which trails off back of hat. Inside of brim lined with black grosgrain ribbon. A thin black elastic strap goes around the back of the head to secure the hat. Label sewn into inner band: "Walter Florell / 29 East 53rd New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114797/
Beach Clogs
Pair of wooden, raffia, and leather beach clogs. The slip-on shoes are designed with wooden platform soles with rounded toes, and a wide woven raffia strap across vamp which is dyed in stripes, red, off-white, black, orange, white, brown, and green. The raffia strap is attached at either side by narrow band of leather nailed into sides of sole. The 3" high heel is of a modified Louis style, and is painted with flower-heads in blues and reds, with similar floral forms on the sides of the platform near the toes. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114732/
Hat
Hat of royal blue very fine straw and plastic weave. Domed crown. Overlapping bands of self create a turban effect. Lined in blue fabric with blue grosgrain ribbon inner headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114785/
Cloche Hat
Cloche style hat made of light blue knitted chenille yarn. Bow of same on side. Designer's label on inside at back: "Frank Olive" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114783/
Beret
Beret made of light blue knitted chenille yarn. Designer's label: "Frank Olive" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114784/
Turban
Turban style hat of black and pink striped satin with stuffed stand up pleated pouf in front. Lined in black net with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Designer's label: "Lilly Daché Paris / 78 East 58th St. New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114786/
Hat
Turban of black and red print fabric with large draped pouf at top in bow shape. Headband of same drapes around back of top pouf, hangs over forehead and knots in front. Lined in black net with black grosgrain headband. Designer's Label: "Lilly / Dache / Paris New York / 78 East 56th Street, N.Y." Size label: "22 1/4" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114987/
Calotte Hat
Oval, calotte style hat of faded rose tucked satin with fabric flowers and petals in matching color. Flower at front of hat trimmed with small satin bow at center. Retailer's label on inside back headband: "Bonnette / Highland Park Village" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114993/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of light purple felt in teardrop shape. Decorated in bunches of purple and magenta felt grapes with leaves of green felt. Rose colored tie bow at back. Hat covered in purple net with chenille balls. Black grosgrain headband. Manufacture's label on inside headband: "Northridge Inc. / 1 W. 57th St. / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114994/
Pumps
Single pump of brown and white suede. Designed as a sling-back spectator pump, the shoe has a 1/4" high brown leather platform and a rounded open toe. The toe box is of brown suede, and is decorated with scrolling lines of perforations, and has a border of perforations. The rest of the upper is of white suede, with an upper border of perforations, is cut-away a the heel, and has a single strap that goes around back of heel and secures with a and a small buckle. The 3 3/4" high heel is covered in brown leather, and tapers to base. Designer's label: "Palter De Liso Inc. / New York City" 2nd Designer's label: "Palter De Liso / Capri / Last" Handwritten notation: "6 1/2B / S469b5 / 7410-2 BH" ONE ONLY - for left foot. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114989/
Cloche Hat
Cloche style hat of black felt. Upturned brim of black Persian lamb wool higher in front and tapering to back. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Label on inside headband: "Blanche Richmond / Salon des Chapeaux / 711 Church St. / Evanston" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114996/
Hat
Hat in turban style of black jersey. Soft folds tie at back. Headband of self. Designer's label on inside headband: "Paulette" Tag at base of designer's label: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114986/
Hat
Hat of tan fur felt. Large, turned down brim in mushroom shape; asymmetrical with narrower brim in back. Calotte crown with narrow hatband and bow of self on back. Unlined with black grosgrain headband. Manufacturer's label on inside headband: "Exclusive / Ranleigh / Model" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114977/
Halo Hat
Pamela or halo style hat of natural colored straw cloth. Crown ringed with brown silk organza roses. Edge of brim covered with natural colored grosgrain. One hatpin with black, teardrop shaped head. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Unlined. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Henrys / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114900/
Hat
Hat in modified renaissance style of black crochet net. Flat, circular crown of net gathered under crown from temples draping to shoulder length. Inside hatband of black grosgrain. Designer's label on inside hatband: " Lilly Dache Paris 78 East 58th St. New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114946/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of gold lamé fabric. Hat could also be called a modified turban. Upturned brim with large, circular, red rhinestone surrounded by white rhinestones as trim. Same trim of large, circular, red rhinestone surrounded by white rhinestones on right side of hat. Lined in black fabric with black grosgrain headband. Retailer's label on inside headband: "Titche Goettinger Co. / Dallas" Designer's label on inside headband: "Sally Victor / 18 East 53rd St." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114971/
Hat
Hat of black broadtail fur with high, rounded crown and narrow, curved brim. Wide, black grosgrain ribbon as hatband forms bow at side. Designer's label: "Lilly Daché / Paris New York" Crown stamped: "Featherlite / Brand" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114985/
Cloche Hat
Cloche style hat in taupe felt. Slightly flared brim. Trimmed at front with red feather bird. Green and black coque feathers drape from front over back of hat. Beige colored veil on front. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Milgrim" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114995/
Hat
Hat in modified breton style of bright red straw cloth with folded brim at front and sides. Two trims of black coque feathers on each side at back. Unlined with black grosgrain hatband. Designer's label at inside hatband: "Richard / Original" Size tag attached to designer's label: "22" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114947/
Hat
Hat of black and white shiny braided straw. Petite boater-like with low, slightly rounded crown. Thin red felt/velveteen (?) ribbon around hatband ties on side to hold up plume-like decoration made of black and white straw material. Plume is styled in the shape of a flower with two red beads in center. Netting material hangs from left and right sides with red velveteen fabric covering ends. Left and right cloth hooks on inside of headband. Retailer's label sewn inside crown: "Fedway". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc115002/
Pillbox Hat
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87088/
Hat
Hat of cream and gray striped fabric. Low, cylindrical crown, flattened at top. At back of crown is band of vertically pleated band of same fabric, which extends to edge of brim. Narrow asymmetrical brim, wider in front. At back of brim is cream bow of thick velvet "string" with trailing ends. Underside of brim lined in cream velvet which extends up to edge the brim. Inner cream grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Lydia / New York" Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Walker-Marr / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87046/
Hat
Hat of black felt. Styled somewhat as a fez, the hat has a slightly conical crown with flattened top. At back are two segments of black silk braid/knotwork. Inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label: "Original / Helen Smith / Marshall Field Annex - Chicago" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87075/
Hatlet
Hatlet of black straw, net, and velvet. The hatlet is based on a metal underframe shaped as an open circle, wrapped, on which are set six black straw pompom forms set in a circle about 6" in diameter. At center of circle is a bow of narrow black velvet ribbon with 4 extending trailing ribbons. The whole is set on a circular veil of black mesh net. Designer's label: "Norman-Pualvin / New York". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87070/
Hat
Hat of black silk taffeta. Wide, quilted brim. Crown formed of loops of tubing in same material attached to brim, knotted at top with ends trailing off back. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87061/
Hat
Hat of fine mauve straw and artificial flowers. Designed as a "boater", the low cylindrical crown is of woven fine mauve straw with a slightly sunken, inset flat top. Around the base of the crown is a wreath of artificial flowers, including red roses, and small blossoms in pale green and mauve, which is tied at back with a thin green velvet ribbon bow with trailing ends. From below the wreath extends a net mesh veil, which covers the narrow, flat brim, and hangs down. The hat is unlined, with an inner dark green grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label: "Nat Frank / New York" Size label: "22" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87066/
Hat
Beret style hat of navy and white woven straw. Ribbon flower hangs off side of hat with small flag of orange grosgrain ribbon on top of stem. Inner headband of black grosgrain ribbon with extension at back of white grosgrain ribbon. Unlined. Designer's label at inside headband: "Gladys & Belle / 20 West 57th St. - New York" Retailer's label at inside headband: "Walker-Marr / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87047/
Hat
Hat of tan fur felt. The highly structured hat of fur felt has a somewhat conical crown, the top with a low dome. Around the top edge of the crown is a wide band of same felt, slanting down, enhanced with vertical stitching. Below this slanting band, around the main body of the crown, is a wide band of brown satin-finished ribbon, decorated with 8 horizontal rows of top stitching, secured at back under a vertical band of the felt. The narrow brim, ca. 1" wide, angles downwards, sharply at back and sides, gently at front, and rolls under. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of tan grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label: "Schiaparelli / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87092/
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