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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Decade: 1940-1949
 Year: 1940
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Jacket of black wool and monkey fur. Suit jacket of black wool, long torso, slightly fitted, single-breasted with center front opening of 4 circular self-covered buttons and single hook-and-eye. Long sleeves. Small shoulder pads. From waist to hem coat is trimmed with wide band of long black monkey fur. Retailer's label at inside back collar: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" National Recovery Board, Coat and Suit Industry label at inside waist, "001706"
Suit - Jacket and Skirt
Suit of light brown vicuña consisting of: a) Tent coat. Thigh-length; notched collar. Center front opening with no closure. Side front vertical, double welt pockets. Back tucks from shoulder; half sleeves. Fully lined in copper brown silk. Retailer's label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus / Vicuna" Tag at inside left lining: "Consumer / Protection Label / VKG / Manufactured Under / Fair Labor Standards" and "National Recovery Board / Coat and Suit Industry / 181527" b) Skirt. Lower part of light brown vicuña matching coat and upper part of light brown cotton with elastic gathered waist. Knee length. Unlined.
Little Girl's Confirmation Dress
Little girl's Confirmation dress of off-white rayon faille. Mid-length; short puffed sleeves with ruched cuffs bordered in lace. Vertical flat pleats at waist of skirt. Collar has lace trim and double bands of ruching in front with two flowers and green ribbon leaves sewn on lower corners of collar; a silk ribbon bow is sewn on center-front. Ruched insert down center front of bodice. Center back closure of three self-covered buttons with loops. Unlined. With tie belt of matching fabric. Center back is stitched closed and front ends are cut on the bias and open to pointed ends.
Blouse of navy blue wool. Wide, boat neckline with inner wide white pique lining which folds over dark plum(?) facing of wool collar, to become shawl collar. Double breasted, with three pair of circular black buttons and single hook-and-eye at waist. Sleeveless, with slight "cap" effect caused by wide shoulders darting, and deep diagonal line of sides. Raised waist and flaring peplum. Unlined. Inner structure augmented with satin ribbons sewn to help hold structure of bodice. Designer's label at inside lower left seam: "Renée Collard / Paris" Retailer's label overlapping lower edge of designer's label: "Janga / 98 Faubg St Honoré Paris"
[Stage Performance]
Photograph of a man and woman, kissing. Taken from a performance, the photograph shows a woman in a short, polka dot dress and a man in a dark suit with a rifle. Both faces are obscured by hat of man. To left is a stage-set pine tree. Stamped on reverse: "Phone TEMPLE BAR 6547. / PERFECT PHOTO REPRODUCTION Co. / Coliseum Chambers, 24 CHANDOS STREET, W.C.2 / MANAGER: JOE DAVIS."
D'Orsay Pumps
D'Orsay pumps of silver leather. Designed with rounded toe and cut-away sides, the pumps have vamp formed of two wide curving bands joined at top of vamp and open at sides and toe. The silver leather of the vamp and the closed heel and ankle strap are embellished with top-stitching; the straps secured with a square rhinestone-set buckle. The modified French heel is covered with silvered leather, without top-stitching. No markings in right shoe. Left shoe with sewn-in label: "Neiman Marcus Co. Dallas / Fenwyn / Trade Mark Reg'd." Both shoes with handwritten notation: "8a / S 12293 / 8315Bb"
Shoes of purple satin with silver kid leather trim. The shoes combine the closed heel and cut-away sides of a d'Orsay pump with the open strap-work vamp of a sandal. They have an ankle strap which secures with a small rectangular buckle, and which connected to the vamp via a strap which runs along the top of the foot. The high, modified French heel is covered with purple satin. Retailer's label stamped in both shoes: "Neiman-Marcus Co. / Dallas"
Pumps of dark brown suede and brown alligator. Designed with a rounded toe, the uppers are of dark brown suede with toe-cap and heels of brown alligator. The modified Cuban heel is covered with brown alligator. Designer's stamp in left shoe: "Delman / Made entirely by hand" Retailer's stamp in right shoe: "Neiman-Marcus Co. / Dallas" Handwritten note in each shoe: "2P67046 54 / 8a"
Sling-Back Evening Pumps
Pair of heeled sling-back evening pumps of silvered and painted leather. Designed with somewhat sharply rounded open toes, the shoes have an all-over design of yellow hand-painted "scales" on the silvered leather that look as if large silver scrolls are applied over a ground of yellow/golden scales. The vamp has a central hole surrounded by a ring of 8 applied silvered leather discs with a cluster of hand-painted yellow dots at center of each. The edge of vamp is cut in a gentle "pointed arch" shape. Ankle strap of plain silvered leather, secured with oval gilt metal buckle set with tiny rhinestones. The 2 1/4" boulevard heel is covered with the same hand-painted silvered leather as the rest of the shoe. Designer's stamp in right shoe: "Delman / New York Chicago London Paris" Retailer's stamp in left shoe: "Bergdorf / Goodman" Handwritten in each shoe: "B80784 / S9474Sx / 5 vN / 821"
Evening Dress
Evening dress of rose/pale pink/pale mauve crepe-back satin charmeuse. Inspired by Chinese Cheongsam-style garments, the dress is full-length, slim fitted, with slight standing collar fastened with hidden hook & loop. Sleeveless, the dress has front opening from throat to slightly below right shoulder, secured with three large rhinestone set circular brass(?) buttons. Very slightly raised waist with triangular "flap", open and hanging down from center front to right hip. From just below hip to center front at hem is secondary opening, with 7 buttons matching bodice. Hem slightly scalloped at front overlap corners, and at right side. Left side underarm zipper. Combined designer's/retailer's label inside bodice: "Neiman-Marcus dallas / Maurice Rentner" With tie belt of same fabric, 3/4" wide.
Pair of shoes of navy blue suede with an oval toe. The vamp has a single wide strap buttoned at the side. Lined in cream leather which shows as thin edging on exterior of shoe. The medium height modified continental heel is covered in the same suede.
Beach Clogs
Beach clogs. The sandals are designed with rounded toe, and have a blond wood sole through which are threaded straps/ties of tan and brown woven in a vine/leaf pattern. Moderate heel.
Mules of brown/oxblood suede. The shoes are designed with rounded, open toes. The toe-box/instep is formed of brown/oxblood suede with two diamond-shaped cut-outs across instep, with gold kidskin bands across narrow points between openings. The high French heels are covered with same suede. Retailer's stamp inside right shoe: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas"
Sling-Back Pumps
Pair of black patent leather sling back pumps. Designed with slightly pointed rounded peep toes, the vamps are composed of two triangular panels of leather which join at points on instep, the join a diamond-shape of leather with circular center hole. The peep toe and the throat edged in black grosgrain ribbon. The sides near the toe-box are cut low, and flair back into the sling-back strap, which has a small black rectangular buckle. Modified French heel is covered with same black patent leather, and tapers almost to a thick "spike" heel shape. Designer's stamps inside shoes: Left shoe: "Palter De Liso Inc. / New York City" Both shoes: "Palter DeLiso / Dresden Last" Retailer's label sewn into right shoe: "Neiman Marcus Co. Dallas / Fenwyn / Trade Mark Reg'd" Handwritten maker's notation inside each shoe: "6 1/2 B / S 42947 / 1521-9BH ."
Sling-Back Pumps
Pair of sling-back pumps of brown suede. Designed with somewhat "sided" toe - tapering along sides to a flattened curve at tip - the toes have a small triangular opening creating a peep toe. The toe-box has a 3/8" high platform, and is decorated with copper-colored stitching forming a grid set on the diagonal, the squares formed each containing a copper stud of either X or Circular shape. Throat of vamp cut to a gentle point. Plain sides sweep up to sling-back strap, which has small brown shaped buckle. The almost 3" high French heel is covered in the same brown suede. Designer's stamps inside shoes: Left shoe: "Palter De Liso Inc. / New York City" Both shoes: "Palter DeLiso / Capri Last" Retailer's label sewn into right shoe: "Neiman Marcus Co. Dallas / Fenwyn / Trade Mark Reg'd" Handwritten maker's notation inside each shoe: "6 1/2 B / S6403 / 2410-2BW"
Pouch - Turkish Festival Outfit
Pouch. Orange cotton pouch, rounded at bottom. Suspended by gold metallic cord. Edged with metallic thread lace. The surface of the pouch is embroidered with various colors of metallic embroidery, mostly chain-stitch. Lined in orange cotton.
Shoes - Turkish Festival Outfit
Pair of shoes. Styled as low, backless slippers with upturned, pointed toes. Toe-box of striped cotton (silk?) with stripes of purple, yellow, orange, etc., with small diamonds of white. Stripes run from toe up to throat of shoe. The toe-box is edged in gold. Insole lined in orange. Soles of leather.
Day Dress
Daytime dress of navy blue silk crepe in modified shirtwaist style. Yoked shoulders with collar. Inner neckline has 7 small mother-of-pearl buttons for additional detachable collar to drape over existing collar. Center front opening with 6 large 1-1/4" mother of pearl buttons with vertical buttonholes. Long set-in sleeves with matching button at cuff. Evidence of smocking below waist seam, but threading is missing. Street length. Unlined. Designer's label at right seam near hem: "Traina-Norell / New York" b) Contour belt of navy leather. Wider at ends with rectangular buckle covered in same. Back stamped "14".
Hat of natural straw. Low domed crown and very wide brim. Tight weave with decorative open weave about 1.5 inches from brim. Around crown is a heavy gold braided ribbon set with spaced rhinestones and large rhinestone where ribbon diverts from crown. Ends of ribbon extend in back to hang off of brim. Off-white grosgrain ribbon inner hatband inside crown. Label sewn to inner ribbon band: "Edna Mye / Dallas". Marked inside crown of hat: "by Hawes"
Headpiece of black satin. Headpiece formed as an openwork braided cylinder made of three thick black satin segments. Black grosgrain ribbon inner band, to which is sewn a brown plastic comb to help fasten hat to wearer's head. No labels.
Cap of dark gray wool. The cap is styled as a Garrison Cap (aka Side Cap, or Wedge Cap). Influenced by military headgear, this hat is constructed as a flat envelope, which opens along long edge to form a wedge-shaped crown. Running width-wise across crown is a band of the same fabric with parallel lines of top-stitching in white thread. Lined in a dark gray fabric. No labels in hat.
Skirt Suit
Two-piece skirt suit of tan, lightly striped, possibly synthetic material. The jacket is a tailored shell with high rounded neckline and square spread collar. Full-length set-in sleeves. constructed in one piece with darts at the elbows. Center front closure from the neck to hip line with four bound buttonholes with corresponding brown tortoise shell buttons. Bound hip pockets with flaps. The jacket front is intricately pieced. Fully lined in light brown crepe. Designer's label stitched along inside of right front opening: "Adrian / Original" The skirt is narrow, knee-length, with knee-level kick pleat. The skirt is darted into a narrow waistband, and has a left side seam zipper closure from waist to hip line. Lapped closure with single hook&eye and hook&bar. Unlined with turned back hem.
Jacket of navy blue wool crepe. Asymmetrically trimmed with pleated band falling from right shoulder, secured with white buckle at waistline. Self belt at waist with matching white buckle. Long sleeved with pleated diagonal at lower right sleeve. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original"
Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of brownish grey worsted wool in black, white, and warm grey. Jacket of self-worsted wool with notched collar and rounded lapels that extend beyond collar; open front trimmed in half-circle lapels at opening with brass disc button accents; 4 buttons on each side decreasing in diameter to bottom; wide, elbow-length sleeves with 3” cuffs; small shoulder pads within; fully lined in brown chiffon; waist-length. Skirt of matching self-worsted wool is gored with long reverse pleat at center-front surrounded by 2 shorter reverse pleats at each side; slight A-line; hits below knees. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original" Original customer label(?): "James L. Courtney"
Evening Dress
Evening dress of black heavy crepe with rows of looped accents at neckline, left sleeve, left hip and on draped band below left hip. Two hanging tabs from right waistline. Sheath silhouette. Pointed collar with open slit. Long sleeves with small zippers at cuffs. Full length with vent at center front. Center back zipper closure. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original"
Hat of black, white, red, and ocher silk styled as a Garrison Cap (aka Side Cap, or Wedge Cap). Influenced by military headgear, this hat is constructed as a flat envelope, which opens along long edge to form a wedge-shaped crown. The cap is dyed in the Shibori technique, forming intricate designs outlined in white and filled in with red or ocher dots. Lined in black silk. Designer's label inside: "3410 Oak Lawn / Bernie A. Cahn / Dallas, Tex."
Safari-like hat of olive green with four-sectioned crown. Green grosgrain ribbon and bow as trim. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Unlined with grosgrain headband. Stamp on inside headband: "Made in France Especially for / Best & Co."
Hat of brown felt in modified beret-style. Crown is draped with a band of pearls as trim on right side. Unlined with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Maker's label: "Haute Mode / Michèle / Paris"
Ensemble - Kutchi Group, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan
Ensemble - Kutchi Dress, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan. This assembled ensemble consists of: 1. Dress. Full-length. High neckline, slight V-shape. Front yoke/bib panel of fine needlework geometric shapes and patterns, in orange, purple, green, and blue. Front of bodice with four large embroidered rosettes of silver couching with orange silver/white, and black borders. Over-length, wide sleeves of patchwork of materials, including red, purple, and pink. Cuffs of heavy silver couching with central band of small circular mirrors in needlework frames. High, narrow waistband of silver/gold couching. Front of skirt formed of thin black fabric heavily gathered to form voluminous front panel. Wide band of red fabric lining inside of front panel at hem. Back of bodice formed of red cloth with vertical white stripes. Embroidered panels under arms. Back of skirt formed of upper panel of purple printed with blue and off-white flowers and leaves, heavily gathered into waistband. Lower panel of purple fabric, as full as upper panel. Black hem on back of skirt. 2. Headpiece of silver set with glass and plastic(?) rubies and emeralds, center plaque with glass segments simulating lapis and jade(?). Central circular plaque with central red circular glass "stone" surrounded by 6 alternating triangular green and blue glass plaques forming a star. Star is encircled by ring of glass (plastic?) simulated rubies and emeralds. Outer openwork border. Extending above central plaque and connected by 4 small metal bar-shaped links is a triangular plaque set with same simulated rubies and emeralds. Extending horizontally from central plaque on either side are three rectangular metal plaques set with same simulated rubies and emeralds. All plaques connected by metal bar-shaped links. Hanging below connected plaques is fringe of short metal chain sections terminating in hollow spheres. The plaques are sewn to a narrow black cloth band designed to fit around the head, with another black cloth band running behind upper triangular plaque to back of head, connecting with band at back. Along the upper edge of the black fabric where the plaques are sewn is beaded border of tiny red and blue beads. 3. Necklace of ornate silver with glass simulated rubies and sapphires, and coins. "Dog-collar" style necklace of elongated vertical links that interlock. At ends are triangular plaques set with small circular simulated rubies and sapphires, with plain loops for securing. Spaced across collar are 7 attached flowerhead-shaped ornaments with large central oval glass gems surrounded by tiny tear-drop shaped mounts set with circular simulated gems. From three of the flowerheads are hung silver mounted coins, from the other four flowerheads are suspended triangular plaques set with circular simulated gemstones, and a final "fringe" of flower-shaped and star-pierced pendant forms and a fringe of silver chain ending in a sphere. The entire dog-collar section also has elongated chain/sphere fringe. The three coins are from Afghanistan, commemorating the 1974 Islamic Summit held at Minar, and are dated 1977. 4. Earrings. Pair of heavy pendant earrings of silver-colored metal and glass. Bail loops suspend a roughly semi-circular silver plate with collet-set glass sapphires, emeralds, and rubies. From lower edge of plate are suspended small clusters of flat silver shapes and small spheres. Earrings do not match exactly. 5. Pendants. Pair of pendant plaques of silver set with simulated gemstones. Each plaque is trapezoidal, almost triangular. Central artificial stone (one emerald, one sapphire) within border of smaller simulated stones (rubies, emeralds, sapphires). In corners of panel are set single artificial stones. Outer band of stones. Chased outer edges. Upper edge with applied loops/roundels with suns/flower-heads. From bottom edge of each plaque is a fringe of chain ending in hollow spheres. One plaque (sapphire center) has a coin suspended from loop at left and right side of plaque. One of the coins is from Iran, minted before 1980. No visible marks or hallmarks.
Picture Hat
Picture hat of reddish brown straw. Low, cylindrical, slightly tilted crown is flattened at top and encircled at base by wide gray grosgrain ribbon which divides into three tiers of streamers cascading at back. Wide floppy brim. Reddish brown inner grosgrain ribbon hatband and black elastic cord to secure to wearer's head. Designer's label at inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / INC." Retailer's label at inner hatband: "Neiman Marcus Co. / New York Dallas Paris"
Hat of fine black balibuntal straw lined with black velvet. Medium high crown with black velvet band typing in large soft bow. Brim uneven, very narrow in back, widening at sides and fullest at left front. Headband of black velvet with large bow of same side back. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus"
Hat of tan felt. Style resembles a garrison cap. Inner headband of dark brown grosgrain ribbon. Unlined. Maker's label on inside headband: "Jacqueline / Dallas"
Hat of green pleated, nubbed cloth. All-over pleats connect on crown under large, round covered button in same. Wide hatband of self makes double bow on back. Hatpin with pearl head. Inside headband of green grosgrain ribbon. Lined in cream colored silk. Could be called a flower-pot or mushroom style hat.
Hat of brown straw with high crown surrounded with beige feathers and a pink satin bow on side. Narrow brim. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Unlined with grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Maker's label: "an original / Vogue Hat / by Garfunkel" Handwritten style number(?) on inner headband: "59.397"
Hat of ultramarine blue felt. Based on a top hat, the cylindrical high crown has an undulating upper edge. Small brim curls up at front and sides, but curls down at back, ending in a point. Around base of crown is wide blue grosgrain ribbon which trails off back of hat. Inside of brim lined with black grosgrain ribbon. A thin black elastic strap goes around the back of the head to secure the hat. Label sewn into inner band: "Walter Florell / 29 East 53rd New York"
Hat of royal blue very fine straw and plastic weave. Domed crown. Overlapping bands of self create a turban effect. Lined in blue fabric with blue grosgrain ribbon inner headband.
Cloche Hat
Cloche style hat made of light blue knitted chenille yarn. Bow of same on side. Designer's label on inside at back: "Frank Olive"
Beret made of light blue knitted chenille yarn. Designer's label: "Frank Olive"
Turban style hat of black and pink striped satin with stuffed stand up pleated pouf in front. Lined in black net with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Designer's label: "Lilly Daché Paris / 78 East 58th St. New York"
Turban of black and red print fabric with large draped pouf at top in bow shape. Headband of same drapes around back of top pouf, hangs over forehead and knots in front. Lined in black net with black grosgrain headband. Designer's Label: "Lilly / Dache / Paris New York / 78 East 56th Street, N.Y." Size label: "22 1/4"
Calotte Hat
Oval, calotte style hat of faded rose tucked satin with fabric flowers and petals in matching color. Flower at front of hat trimmed with small satin bow at center. Retailer's label on inside back headband: "Bonnette / Highland Park Village"
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of light purple felt in teardrop shape. Decorated in bunches of purple and magenta felt grapes with leaves of green felt. Rose colored tie bow at back. Hat covered in purple net with chenille balls. Black grosgrain headband. Manufacture's label on inside headband: "Northridge Inc. / 1 W. 57th St. / New York"
Single pump of brown and white suede. Designed as a sling-back spectator pump, the shoe has a 1/4" high brown leather platform and a rounded open toe. The toe box is of brown suede, and is decorated with scrolling lines of perforations, and has a border of perforations. The rest of the upper is of white suede, with an upper border of perforations, is cut-away a the heel, and has a single strap that goes around back of heel and secures with a and a small buckle. The 3 3/4" high heel is covered in brown leather, and tapers to base. Designer's label: "Palter De Liso Inc. / New York City" 2nd Designer's label: "Palter De Liso / Capri / Last" Handwritten notation: "6 1/2B / S469b5 / 7410-2 BH" ONE ONLY - for left foot.
Cloche Hat
Cloche style hat of black felt. Upturned brim of black Persian lamb wool higher in front and tapering to back. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Label on inside headband: "Blanche Richmond / Salon des Chapeaux / 711 Church St. / Evanston"
Hat in turban style of black jersey. Soft folds tie at back. Headband of self. Designer's label on inside headband: "Paulette" Tag at base of designer's label: "Made in France"
Hat of tan fur felt. Large, turned down brim in mushroom shape; asymmetrical with narrower brim in back. Calotte crown with narrow hatband and bow of self on back. Unlined with black grosgrain headband. Manufacturer's label on inside headband: "Exclusive / Ranleigh / Model"
Halo Hat
Pamela or halo style hat of natural colored straw cloth. Crown ringed with brown silk organza roses. Edge of brim covered with natural colored grosgrain. One hatpin with black, teardrop shaped head. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Unlined. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Henrys / Dallas"
Hat in modified renaissance style of black crochet net. Flat, circular crown of net gathered under crown from temples draping to shoulder length. Inside hatband of black grosgrain. Designer's label on inside hatband: " Lilly Dache Paris 78 East 58th St. New York"
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of gold lamé fabric. Hat could also be called a modified turban. Upturned brim with large, circular, red rhinestone surrounded by white rhinestones as trim. Same trim of large, circular, red rhinestone surrounded by white rhinestones on right side of hat. Lined in black fabric with black grosgrain headband. Retailer's label on inside headband: "Titche Goettinger Co. / Dallas" Designer's label on inside headband: "Sally Victor / 18 East 53rd St."
Hat of black broadtail fur with high, rounded crown and narrow, curved brim. Wide, black grosgrain ribbon as hatband forms bow at side. Designer's label: "Lilly Daché / Paris New York" Crown stamped: "Featherlite / Brand"