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Neiman Marcus Collection Scrapbook: Volume 1, 1905-1948
Album containing catalog entries for items in the Texas Fashion Collection including a photograph of the item and text describing information known about the designer and manufacture date, provenance, and physical descriptions of the items.
Skirt suit
Suit of navy blue wool twill and navy blue and white houndstooth check. A) Jacket has fronts of the check and everything else is of the navy blue. V-neck with pointed collar applied, single breasted closing with 5 self covered buttons and bound buttonholes, neckline and front trimmed with a piping of red wool, princess seams, long sleeves with pointed turn-back cuffs, fully lined. Designer label: Curry's / Chicago B) Skirt straight-line, side zipper, kick pleat at back hem.
Wool dress
Dress of navy blue wool gabardine. Square neck; long sleeves. Slight peplum at waist. Straight skirt center front closure with nine 2" and 1-and-1/2" black patent leather buckles. One buckle on cuffs of sleeves. Label at inside seam near hem: "Chas. Levy & Son / Beverly Hills / Mrs. Ben G. Sterling / Date 8/31/37 No 2001", partly filled out by typewriter on pre-printed label.
Graduation dress
Dres of ivory white cotton organdy. Round neckline; short, ruffled sleeves. Long, tiered, ruffled, and scalloped skirt.
Debutante dress
A: Idelwild debutante gown of white slipper satin with tulle overdress embellished with velvet flower appliques. Sleeveless. Underneath is a floor length slipper satin petticoat. B: Tie/belt of white ribbon Size 10
Silk dress
Square and floral printed green silk daytime dress; short-sleeved; triangle cutouts on collar
Silk dress
Dress of gold metallic silk. Sleeveless; full-length; the hem curves up gently in front; slim silhouette; high neckline in front which drops to the waist in back; a red velvet sash starts at the back shoulder and drops to the waist where it forms a bow and hangs down to the hem.
Evening dress
Evening dress of pink pearl-tone heavy silk crepe; draped; left side has a narrow shoulder strap; right side has the drape rolled and stitched onto the shoulder strap; full-length; the drape wraps around the hips of the dress and snaps onto the dress at the waistline; snaps closing the dress are hidden under drape; the right side of the hem flows up into the roll on the right shoulder. Label on front side seam: A Registered Original Design with Fashion Originators Guild Label above snaps: 370NM371/ muted pink full-length evening gown/ Neiman-Marcus/ Designer: unknown.
Dress and cape
A) Evening dress of off white crepe. Shirring at bustline; fitted waist; shirring at front hip; sheer pleated chiffon at front and back. B) Cape of off white chiffon with white fur trim.
Ribbon ensemble
Ensemble of red ribbon knit. A) Top of self knit with stemmed flower designs at upper left and lower right accented with tiny pearls and multi-colored rhinestones. Bermuda collar; short sleeves; fitted with side-zip closure under left arm and short zip closure at center-back neckline. Unlined, with attached shoulder-pads. Labels: At bottom of side zipper, inside: "Neiman-Marcus / Sports Shop" At side: "Suzanne / Handknitting / Original New York" B) Skirt of self-knit is mid-length and A-line with side-zip closure. Unlined. No labels. C) Belt of self-knit backed on grosgrain ribbons, fits around waistband of top. 5/8" wide x 29 1/2" long. No labels.
Wedding shoes
Slingback pumps of off-white silk. rounded toe; small heel; beige lace detail on toes. Decorative buckle on straps. Match wedding dress (2004.014.044). Left Shoe: 235 Volk / Dallas Right Shoe: 235 Volk/ Dallas Measurements: L: 21 cm W: 7 cm H: 9 cm Heel: 6.5 cm / 2.5 in.
Leather shoes
Shoes of silver leather; strappy heels with open toe and heel; 7 strap vamp; buckle comes from sides and meets in back, buckles around ankle; 1" x 3/4" at base. Measurements: Length 22.5cm Width 7.5cm Height 15.5cm Heel 8cm /3 1/8in (@axis) Left Shoe: A HARRIS / & CO. / DALLAS, TEXAS; 8S 3979 Right Shoe: Pre-View / New York / by Tupper; 88 3979
Slides
Pair of black stain house mules with 3/4" heel. 1/4" platform. Open toe. Vamp covered with black sequins. Full label: "Saks Fifth Avenue / Size 6M / Gustinettes" Measurements: length 24cm Width 8cm Height 3.5 cm Heel 2.5 cm / 1 in (@ axis) Left Shoe: Gustinettes / 6m Right Shoe: Saks-Fifth Avenue
Leather shoes
Heeled shoes of white leather, round toe box, brouging arches parallel to round toe box and following throat on vamp, straps and closure creating higher throat, low heels, insoles, Size 5B L: 21 cm W: 7 cm H: 13 cm Heel: 6 cm / 2 3/8 in. Left Shoe: Bob Shoe / For Style & Comfort Right Shoe: Bob Shoe / For Style & Comfort
Spectator shoes
Pumps of white suede and black leather segments. The shoes of white suede are designed with a slightly pointed toe, open at front with a small inverted "V" shape, the front of the toe-box overlaid with a black leather trim. The instep with black narrow leather lace-up details and bow. Wedge heel of white suede with black leather horizontal bands. Designer's stamp inside left shoe: "by Johansen / Smartest Since 1876" Retailer's stamp inside right shoe: "Ernest Grissom's / Abilene" Measurements: L:23 cm W: 7 cm H: 14.5 cm Heel: 7.5 cm / 3 in.
Wood and leather clogs
Beach clogs of painted wood, and red and yellow leather. The thick wooden soles are painted in a marbled pattern of greens and yellows on red ground. The toe-box is formed of two wide crossed leather straps, one red, the other yellow, each affixed to the sole by large-headed nails/tacks. The heels have red silk cord which is threaded through hole passing through the sole and tied around wearer's ankles. The modified French heels are painted to match the rest of the soles. Measurements: Length 23cm Width 7cm Height 8.5cm at heel without straps) Heel 8.5cm (2 7/8") high.
Leather shoes
Shoes of brown suede. Black piping around opening; rounded tongue; small stacked heel. L: 27 cm W: 7.5 cm H: 9.5 cm Heel: 3 cm / 1 1/8 in. Left Shoe: Giavanni / New York Designers Right Shoe: Giavanni / New York Designers
Patterned dress
Dress of red, yellow, and black printed silk; dress is draped from a single piece of fabric; pin tucks and pleats at arm seams and down center front; floor length; collarless; zipper closure at center front with self belt tie; short sleeves; unlined.
Evening dress
A) Evening dress of moss green rayon crepe with gathered knots down CF; bias-cut dress and slip; sleeveless; full length. B) Slip. Labels in slip: Designer's label: "Hartnell / London" Retailer's label: "Specially made / in England for / Best & Co. / New York".
Tea gown
Tea gown of purple panne velvet with crepe midriff band and sash. Skirt flared in back with triangular gores, ending in small train. Neckline deep V and gathered under bust above midriff band. Padded shoulders, sleeves long and narrow at wrist, but wide at shoulder with folded effect for added interest. Skirt slashed in front. attached scarf Size 12 Retailer's label: "Neiman Marcus Co."
Evening ensemble
Evening ensemble. A) Short, fitted jacket of aqua wool crepe embroidered with gold metallic soutache braid along center front and rounded neckline. Long, darted gibson sleeves. Center front zipper closure. Unlined; shoulders supported with aqua fabric. Tag at center back neckline: "An original design / Registered / By a member of / Fashion Originators Guild / 2570" B) Evening dress of aqua rayon chiffon. Full length. Sweetheart neckline with triple spaghetti straps. Shirred bodice with scalloped hem. Two triangular gores at hemline to form circular skirt. Zipper closure at left side. Under layer of aqua synthetic satin.
Purple satin evening slippers
Purple satin evening slippers, cut out heel w/ one strap at instep. gilt, jeweled buckle. Fabric criss-crossed at toe in sandal style. toe out. Gold platform soles and heel tip. Size: 5 1/2m markings: left- none right- "Neiman Marcus Co. Dallas / Fenwyn / Trade mark reg'c"
Nightgown
Nightgown of off white or cream colored silk charmeuse and chiffon with embroidered flowers. Full length, cap sleeves and peter pan collar of charmeuse, yoke of chiffon, illusion sweetheart neckline with bodice and skirt of charmeuse, charmeuse tie belt or cummerbund at natural waist, button at center back neckline, center back slit, draped on the bias, unlined.
Nightgown
Nightgown of ivory crepe, full-length with slight train. Self tie at neckline with blue applique monogram "SLC" in art deco font. Long sleeves with 1" gathered cuffs and closure of two snaps. Center front opening with self-covered button and loop at neckline. Four vertical rows of pin tucks on shoulders. Unlined.
Pink nightgown
Nightgown of light pink or peach bias cut silk charmeuse, sleeveless, deep v neckline, v-shaped waistline with gathers to add fullness at bust, floral lace motifs inserted following neckline creating asymmetrical detail, full skirt with inserts to complete circular shape. Label: Made Expressly for Neiman Marcus Co.
Printed heels
Pair of heeled pumps of tan linen printed with pastel floral design. Designed with pointed toes, almost as D'Orsay pumps, with sides almost cut to platform. Dark tan/taupe/beige triangular straps to ankle strap, which has oval embossed metal "buckle" which hooks into oval loop secured to other side. 2 1/2" high modified boulevard heels covered in same leather as straps. Stamped in both shoes: "Christie / Potter Cincinnati" Handwritten in both shoes: "39-0000G14104 / 1369" Measurements: length 25.5cm. Width 7cm. Height 13.5cm. Heel 5cm (2 1/2") high on axis.
Leather shoes
Single kid and suede sling pump. Open toe and back. Left upper side of white suede, right upper side of brown kid leather. Vamp of white suede which crosses over brown leather. Center of vamp has cut-out with 2 brown buttons braided into edge of rectangular cut-out. Designer's label: "Palter DeLiso / Capri / Last" Retailer's label: "Neiman Marcus Co. Dallas / Fenwyn / Trade Mark Reg'd". Handwritten note: "6 1/2 B / 51469 / 7412-20BV" ONE SHOE ONLY - for right foot. Measurements: Length 22cm Width 7.5cm Height 7cm / 2.75in (@ axis)
Handbag
Structured handbag of medium brown leather with dark brown interlocking C quatrefoil print piped in black leather. Inverted frame; single handle with metallic gold fasteners; gold flip clip closure in design of open frame with three bars. Lined in brown suede; patch pocket with flap and snap closure; zipper pocket with back patch pocket. Four circular feet. Retailer's label: Made in Italy Exclusively for / Neiman-Marcus Measurements: Width: 9" Height: 6 1/2" without handle Height: 10 1/2" with handle Depth: 2 7/8"
Strawberry hatlet
Hatlet of green velvet. The low, domed crown is encircled by a wide band of pleated green velvet bands, a large green velvet bow, and five clusters of magenta velvet strawberries with green velvet leaves. The hat is lined in the same green velvet, and has two small faux tortoise shell combs inside to help secure to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Emme"
Art Deco-style handbag
Handbag of black quilted/ribbed silk in art deco style with black enameled gold flip top bar frame trimmed in red bezel set cabochons. Contoured handle of matching black quilted/ribbed silk. Lined in black silk with two side pockets edged in gold thread. Stamped designer's label: "Charles Blair / 374 R. St. Honoré / Paris" Stamped retailer's label: "Made in France / for / Neiman Marcus Co."
Handbag
Box handbag of navy blue wool. Fabric gathers on front and back faces. Double handle of matching fabric with navy blue stitching. Metallic gold flip bar closure. Lining of navy blue satin with two slip pockets. Four domes brass feet. Designer's stamp on inside reads: "bd / bien-davis" Retailer's stamp: "Sak's Fifth Avenue" Measurements: Width: 9 1/2" Height: 7" without handle Height: 13 1/2" with handle Depth: 2 1/4"
Evening jacket
Evening jacket of orange, gold and silver embossed brocade. Collarless neckline; 3/4 length dolman sleeves with faux wide rolled cuffs. Lined in white rayon shantung. Label: Madame Claire / Buffalo NY
Felt hat
Hat of black felt. The crown is designed as a shallow dome with front hatband of wide black velvet ribbon with a large bow. Wide circular brim turns up at back and is secured with two wide vertical bands of same black velvet ribbon. Unlined; headband of black grosgrain ribbon. Elastic band for securing hat to head.
Picture hat
Picture hat of maroon straw. Low, teardrop shaped crown with flat top is slightly tilted to the front by a gathered stitch; wide gray grosgrain ribbon headband divides into three tiers of streamers cascading at back. Wired, wide floppy brim. Inner brim with maroon grosgrain ribbon headband and black elastic cord to secure to wearer's head. Unlined. Designer's label: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc. Retailer's label: Neiman Marcus Co. / New York Dallas Paris
Calotte
Calotte covered in muted green and bronze ombre colored silk and velvet floral petals. Wire frame covered in green velvet; lined in green net. Retailer's label: B.Altman & Co. / The Young Colony Shop Union label: Union Made L 287967"
Bergere-style hat
Bergère style hat of black linen. Open crown created by a black band of self encircling what would be the base of the crown; bow at back. Wide asymmetric brim slightly "waved"; wired. Headband of black grosgrain. Manufacture's label on inside hatband: "Betmar" Union label on inside hatband: "823937" Retailer's stamp on inside hatband: "Weldon's Fort Worth"
Riding-stye hat
Hat of brown felt hat in riding hat style. High crown with fold at center back. Hatband of wide brown grosgrain ribbon extends down back. Small narrow upturned brim and brown veil attached to front and forms bows at back. Headband of brown grosgrain; unlined. Elastic band for securing hat to head. Designer's label: Walter Florell / 29 East 53rd New York
Open-crown hat
Bergère style, open-crown hat of finely woven black horsehair. Formed without a crown, the hat has a center headband of black velvet ribbon with large bow and trailing ribbons at back. From headband extends wide, floppy brim of fine black stiff mesh/net horsehair. A small plastic comb attached at front center of headband helps secure hat to wearer's head. Retailer's label: "Made to Order Hat / Bergdorf / Goodman"
Turban-style hat
Turban-style hat created of henna colored silk rope wound around and stitched to form the hat. Net backing/lining. At back of hat is an oval spiral of same material, from which extends a spray of cinnamon bird of paradise feathers to the front. Label sewn inside: "John Frederics Inc / New York" Measurements: 24 cm. front to back; 19 cm. side to side; 13 cm. from top of crown to lowest point of brim.
Coat
Coat of navy blue wool. Ruffled, quilted shawl collar attached to front panel; rolled button of matching material under collar closes with frog at right side neckline. Slightly flared silhouette; 3/4 sleeves that turn up at the ends. Blue satin lining with ties that close with loop on left side opening. Retailer's label: "Volk's / Dallas" NRA label
Evening ensemble
Evening ensemble of light blue-gray silk faille and silver thread brocade. A) Evening dress with wide, gathered shoulder straps. Empire bodice with ruching at center front and inserted waistband. Bias cut floor length A-line skirt. Left side zipper closure; unlined. No labels. B) Bolero style jacket. Short sleeves with padded shoulders. No labels.
Day dress
A) Dress of navy blue knit crepe. Wide round 4 1/2 inch white faille collar with big blue taffeta bow at center front. Calf length; half sleeves. Horizontal release pleat detail at back hips. Center back zipper closure; unlined. Designer label: Howard Greer / Beverly Hills B) Belt of self-covered crepe with rectangular buckle. Backed in black leather.
Sweater vest
Sweater vest in pullover style of cream cashmere patterned on the front with diagonal stripes of brown cashmere with alternating rectangles of brown and cream. Ribbed at V-neckline, armholes, and 3 ¼" hem. Combined designer/retailer label: 100% Pure Cashmere / Neiman-Marcus / Made in Scotland / by Ballantyne Maker's label a bottom right seam: This is an Original / Ballantyne Intarsia Retailer's label at back inside neck: "100% Pure Cashmere / Nemian-Marcus / Made in Scotland / by Ballantyne"
Tuxedo vest
Mock tuxedo vest of white piqué cotton in a fine diamond weave. Single breasted with closure for three stud buttons; no buttons accessioned. Straight lapel, two welt pockets at front. Lined with white cotton with a larger diamond damask weave. Adjustable belt of fabric matching lining with buckle. Retailer's label at hem of left panel: Payne & Merrill / Baltimore
Evening gown
Long evening gown of black silk chiffon with shirred bust and trim around bustline. Pleated flared skirt of multiple layers of chiffon. Detachable shawl collar trimmed in black ostrich feathers around shoulders/bust.
Vest
Men's white cotton waistcoat/vest with very fine blue pin stripe. Single vested closure of five pearl buttons; four welt pockets. Adjustable waistband with metal buckle. Cotton lining and back. Label inside waistband: RWW Rosenwald & Weil Makers Chicago
Girl's pinafore
Girl's pinafore dress of white cotton. Sleeveless with ruffles around armholes, white work embroidered flowers around neck and middle of skirt. Ties at back. Closure of four buttons down the back at top of bodice.
Girl's dress
Girl's dress of off-white cotton canvas feed sack material with stemmed yellow rose print. Double Peter Pan style collar with scalloped ruffle trim. Gathered and pleated short sleeves with matching scalloped ruffle trim. Empire waist; knee length. Center back closure of three circular pearl buttons and barred buttonholes. Unlined.
Girl's dress
Girl's dress of white cotton with purple, blue, and red floral print. Puff sleeves with 1/2" cuffs. Below knee length, A-lined skirt has six gores. Peter Pan collar of white linen edged with scalloped lace. Bound center front opening has closure of two snaps and is trimmed with six white sailboat buttons. Belt loops at sides; belt missing. Unlined.
Girl's dress
Child's day dress of sheer yellow cotton. Collarless, rounded neckline is trimmed in yellow lace 3/4 of way around neckline. Embroidery of pink, yellow, and green thread around neckline and back opening. Armholes also have yellow lace and same embroidery as neckline. Embroidery work down center front of blue, pink, fuchsia, and gold French knot embroidered flowers with green stems and daisy stitched leaves. Three tucks under each armhole. Snap at back opening. Hem has been released.
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