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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Decade: 1950-1959
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Calotte

Calotte

Date: 1950
Creator: Coralie
Description: Calotte. The hat has a conical crown of stiffened green net overlaid with green straw woven/plaited loops and with attached artificial cherries and leaves. The calotte (also spelled "calot") has a thin green velvet trim along base of crown. Label sewn into inner edge of crown: "Styled by / Coralie", with "Finlan" written on edge of label. Behind the Coralie label is a Union label.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Turban

Turban

Date: 1955
Creator: Henry's Hats
Description: Turban of light brown velvet and burnt sienna / orange brown satin. Affixed to front is a large artificial flower in shades of pinks and pale greens, enhanced with maroon feathers. Lined in pale brown netting. Around inside of brim is band of light brown grosgrain ribbon. Label sewn onto ribbon: "An Original By / Henry's Hats".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pillbox Hat

Pillbox Hat

Date: 1953
Creator: Henry
Description: Pillbox hat of beige/light brown suede. The low, cylindrical crown is of suede, with a thin band of black patent leather piping along inner edge of sides, encircling the flattened crown. At back of hat is a flat bow of black patent leather. The hat is lined in cream and gold brocade, and has edging of black rickrack and two small combs to help secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label inside: "Made Especially / for you by / Henry".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1950
Creator: Molli
Description: Hat of natural tan straw "lace". The low, domed crown is made of straw/fine wicker that has been worked as lace, in net and with various elements. At front the crown extends out in an undulating brim. Mounted at the base of the crown, on the front brim, is a large pink artificial rose with green leaves. Unlined, the hat has a black cord to help secure it to the wearer's head. Designer's label inside: "Paris / Molli / New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1955~
Creator: unknown
Description: Hat of navy blue fur felt. Designed as a modified pillbox hat, the low, domed crown is set into a cylinder of the same felt, giving a "waist" just below the upper edge of the crown. At front of the hat is a large flat bow of off-white ribbed cotton(?). Hat has a lower, inset rim piped in same fabric as bow. Hat is unlined, with inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Accompanied by a single hatpin, the head covered with matching navy blue fur felt. Retailer's label inside: "Made To Order Hat / Bergdorf / Goodman / Fifth Ave at 58th St."; Stamp inside crown of maker of felt form: "[Coat of arms] Fur Felt / Body by / Mallory"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1955~
Creator: Henry's (Dallas, Texas)
Description: Hat of flowers. The low, domed crown of stiffened white net is covered with green fabric and completely covered in large artificial flowers in shades of pinks and reds, with scattered green vinyl leaves. The hat is lined in white lace, and has a double inner hatband of black and of a silvery gold metallic rickrack. Label inside: "Henrys / Dallas". Henrys has alternately been identified as a hat maker and as a retailer.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Day Dress

Day Dress

Date: 1957
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Day dress of blue gray and navy herringbone silk. A) Day dress of blue gray and navy herringbone silk. Shift style. Mid-length with rounded, Peter Pan collar. Bracelet length, dolman sleeves. Center front opening extending from neckline to hips, with 3 self-covered buttons above waist and a zipper with hook & eye. Two large patch pockets at hips. Unlined. Combined retailer/designer label at left side seam of skirt: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell B) Tie/scarf of same fabric. One end wider than other, finishing in triangles. Narrow at center.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Dress

Cocktail Dress

Date: 1953
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Cocktail dress of black faille and white linen with jacket and belt. A) Bolero style jacket in black silk faille. Center front opening with four small black circular buttons and bound buttonholes. Short, set-in sleeves trimmed with three matching buttons on tops of sleeves with bound buttonholes. Small welt pockets at sides. Jacket and sleeves lined in white silk satin. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Dress of black silk faille. Set-in waistline with upper bodice of white linen. Linen bodice is sleeveless and has center front opening with five white circular plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Banded collar extends to form bow tie ends. Mid-calf length skirt is full and formed by 10 panels. Left side zipper under arm hole. Black grosgrain ribbon petersham at natural waist with single hook & eye closure. Set-in waist section supported by metal boning. Lined in black silk in lower portion of skirt. Entire skirt section lined in heather brown woolen fabric to stiffen skirt. C) Narrow belt covered in black silk faille. Rectangular self covered buckle.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Day Dress

Day Dress

Date: 1950/1959
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Day dress in beige pesanté silk. Bias band collar extending into tubular tie with open hemmed ends. Tie graduates for 1/2 inch at center back collar to 4-1/4 inch at ends. Three 1 inch self-covered round buttons at bodice front. Piped button holes and 13 inch hidden zipper below. Bracelet length dolman sleeves. Back yoke. Street length. Two 8-1/2 inch x 8 inch hip patch pockets. Unlined. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Toque

Toque

Date: 1955~
Creator: Modes, Valerie
Description: Hat of black straw with a grosgrain bow on folded brim. Flares slightly at top. Rounded crown surrounded with grosgrain ribbon.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Coat

Coat

Date: 1958
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Coat of black, purple and white shepherd's check wool. Single breasted with 3 large, circular plastic buttons with bound buttonholes. Bias cut collar with 2" stand at center back. Front and back yokes. Long sleeve with matching, single buttoned cuff with bound buttonhole. Two patch pockets. Lined in black silk. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Mushroom Hat

Mushroom Hat

Date: 1955~
Creator: unknown
Description: Hat of black felt. Resembling the cap of a mushroom, the hat consists of a wide, low, soft crown that extends out as a brim would. The underside of the "cap" is of the same material, and the whole is set on a short cylindrical "stalk" which fits on the wearer's head. Inner part of hat is unlined, with an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Retailer's label inside: "Made to order hat / Bergdorf / Goodman / On The Plaza - New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Bridge Hat

Bridge Hat

Date: 1951
Creator: unknown
Description: Bridge hat of navy blue straw. The cylindrical crown has a domed top section, and is encircled at the base by a wide band of off-white grosgrain ribbon, with two self bows at front left and right. On front section of the band are applied three applique "club" shapes of navy blue and off-white. A fourth applique is set on the front of the brim. The brim is a four-lobed quatrafoil, emulating a club shape, the back lobe truncated somewhat. The outer edge of the brim is rolled under. Underside of brim lined with off-white grosgrain fabric, inside of crown lined with black fabric, and with an inner off-white grosgrain ribbon hatband. Label: "Made to Order Hat / Bergdorf / Goodman / Fifth Ave. at 58th St"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Dress

Cocktail Dress

Date: 1955/1960
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Cocktail dress of black silk faille and white lawn with black embroidered scallops. Wide boat neckline, short sleeves, natural waistline, princess seaming. Heavy black faille overskirt pleated into waist, cut higher at front to show underskirt of white lawn. Underskirt has horizontal bands of triple lines of scallops, scalloped lower edge of underskirt. Built in hoop understructure with petersham belt and four steel (?) internal hoops. Overlay with petticoat of white cotton with wide horsehair band at hem. Center back zipper.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Coat Dress and Skirt

Ensemble - Coat Dress and Skirt

Date: 1958
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Ensemble consisting of a charcoal gray wool tweed coat dress and skirt. A) Street dress of charcoal gray wool tweed. Center front opening with eight large, circular, black plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Three quarter raglan sleeves. Turndown collar. Yoked shoulders slightly gathered in back. Below knee length. Lined in black silk faille. Retailer's label at inside back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus" B) Skirt with waist panel of black silk and lower panel of charcoal gray wool tweed. Skirt is slightly gathered where waist panel meets lower panel. Overall effect is of a straight skirt. Center back opening with two hook & eyes on waistband as closure. Lower portion of skirt is lined in same black silk as waist panel. Retailer's label on inside center back seam of lining: "Neiman-Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1958
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: A) Daytime sheath-style dress of natural silk with bateau neckline. Sleeveless. Fly opening at center back neckline with two large abalone buttons with bound buttonholes reinforced with snaps. Two large patch pockets placed low on hips which wrap around side seams from front to back. Knee length. Fitting darts at bust. Lined in natural colored silk. Combined retailer and designer label: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Matching 4 inch wide belt of self fabric. False closure on front right trimmed with two large abalone buttons. Closure at front left with two matching buttons. Bound buttonholes.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Day Dress

Day Dress

Date: 1958
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Day dress of rose floral print silk shantung with dropped waist and gathered skirt. Cherry printed trim at neckline, sleeves, and dropped waistline. Cherry trim at dropped waist ties in bow. Bateau neckline. Short kimono style sleeves in yolk. Center back buttoned closure with five self fabric covered round buttons. Dropped skirt lined in cream silk. Size 12. Combined retailer and designer label: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina Norell".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Day Dress

Day Dress

Date: 1959
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Day dress of white linen in sheath-style. Sleeveless with wide, rounded neckline. Closure at back neckline with two "caviar buttons," large domed buttons covered in small round white beads and bound buttonholes. Belt of self fabric is attached to dress and also trimmed with two "caviar buttons" and bound buttonholes. Lined in cream colored silk. Combined retailer and designer label at side seam hem:"Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Day Dress

Day Dress

Date: 1952
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Day dress of gray/white print silk taffeta. Street- or tea-length, of paper silk taffeta printed with a dense design of varying sizes of small white polka dots on a gray ground. V-neckline, with bow of self just below point. 3/4 length dolman sleeves. Full skirt, cut for crinoline. Center back zipper. Designer's label: "Traina-Norell / New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cape Coat

Cape Coat

Date: 1955
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Cape coat of heavy rust mohair. Rounded collar. Center front opening with 5 large, round, marbled brown plastic buttons reinforced with hook & bar. Machine stitched button holes. Street length. Slit pockets at side seams. Lined in rust colored silk satin fabric. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1956
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Tubular dress of red textured, homespun wool with princess style seams. Tea length. Rounded, jewel neckline. Three-quarter length raglan sleeves with gussets at under arm. Two large patch pockets placed low on hips wrap around side seams. Center front closure with seven red plastic round buttons and bound buttonholes; reinforced at neckline with a snap. Upper portion of dress lined in ivory silk crepe. Retailer label at left inside seam near hem: "Neiman-Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1951
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Red silk taffeta dress with print of white line/dashes. A) Cocktail dress of red silk taffeta print. The print is of short white lines/dashes, scattered over the entire garment. Short sleeves, collar with rounded "points". Dropped waist, with a wide panel of same fabric with vertical stitching between bodice and skirt. "Tiered" skirt, with a flounce of same material gathered at bottom of dropped waist and continuing to about knee-level. Skirt gathered at dropped waist, under the flounce. Center front opening with 5 small circular self-covered buttons. Zipper at left side from under arm to dropped waist. Unlined. Inner ivory grosgrain belt/petersham with single hook and eye at left side. Seam where flounce joins skirt reinforced on interior with horsehair band. Combined designer's/retailer's label sewn in skirt: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Thin belt of cream leather covered in matching fabric. Rectangular buckle covered in same fabric. No marks on belt.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1957
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: A) Sheath style dress of navy silk with seam line at natural waist. Slightly gathered at sides of waist and tapering to a narrow skirt. Short kimono sleeve with gusset at underarm. Hem of sleeves are coming undone. Jewel neckline. Button closure at center back with six navy plastic buttons. Unlined. Size 12. B) Three inch wide belt of self fabric with self fabric buckle. Belt sits above waistline. Designer label: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina Norell".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1952
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Dress of toast brown colored linen. A) Jacket. Waist-length box jacket, with modified mandarin collar, asymmetrical front opening/closure beginning with a button just below center throat, then curving to left, and then down on left front, with a total of five large circular ivory-colored plastic buttons, and a single hidden snap at upper right. Sleeveless. Single patch pocket at right side. Neckline, opening, and top edge of pocket edged with off-white band. Lined in cream cotton(?). No label in jacket. B) Skirt. Street-length, A-line, with darts to the wide waistband. Left fastening, with three hooks and loops at waistband and zipper below. Unlined. Designer's label: "Traina-Norell / New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design