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Partner:
UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Decade:
1950-1959
Collection:
Texas Fashion Collection
- Hatlet
- Hatlet/circlet of gray mink. Headpiece is formed of a long segment of mink backed with a dark/dusty mauve which forms a circle and extends to side and down. Remains of matching gray veiling along inner edge. Remains of two short spans of elastic on underside which would have held combs to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's Label: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Gift of H.B. Curry, Jr., through his daughter Nancy C. Bavor. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38101/
- Hat
- Hat of natural straw. The high, cylindrical crown is slightly domed, and is encircled by two wide bands of pale yellow grosgrain ribbon. The brim is off-center, wider at front, and turns up sharply at edge. The brim is edged with same ribbon as encircles the crown. The hat is unlined, with a band of pale yellow grosgrain ribbon inside base of crown as inner hatband. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Cedar Crest / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38108/
- Hat
- Hat of off-white straw. The domed crown is composed of flattened tiers to form a beret-like layer effect. The lower edge is trimmed in an off-white fabric, which repeats as a band of tubular ribbon and fan-comb at one side. The crown is unlined, with an inner hatband of off-white grosgrain ribbon. Two small plastic combs are attached to the inner hatband to secure the hat to wearer's head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38109/
- Hatlet
- Hatlet of stiffened black velvet embroidered floral/foliate appliques. Roughly triangular, the appliques have net openwork areas and beaded stamens for the blossoms, and are covered with black veiling. Inside the crown, there are two small brown plastic combs on right and left side to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside crown: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Gift of H.B. Curry, Jr., through his daughter Nancy C. Bavor. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38103/
- Hatlet
- Hatlet of black beads. The triangular openwork crown is formed by strings of beaded material 1" wide with 9 rows of black beads. Set at each corner of the triangle is a large 3-dimensional butterfly shape of the same beaded material. The open center of the hatlet crown has wide-mesh net with 6-sided openings. Inside crown are two small brown plastic combs to help secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label sewn inside crown: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Gift of Mrs. William O. Hunt, of Finders Keepers, Chicago, Illinois. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38087/
- Hatlet
- Hatlet of black plastic tubing. The low crown is made of a tight spiral of twisted black plastic tubing with four open areas near the edge. The front edge of the crown extends to form 4 points, each of which is surmounted by a "bow" of similar shiny black tubing tying together pairs of shiny black plastic ovals. The back edge of the crown extends to form two semi-circular lobes. Overlaying the crown, but beneath the "bows" is black netting veil, with small pieces of black tubing worked into some of the intersections at front of hat. The inside of the crown is lined with black mesh. Two plastic combs, one to each side, are inside crown of hat to secure it to wearer's head. Designer's label inside crown: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago" Gift of Mrs. Philip Rosenblum, through the Chicago Historical Society. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38080/
- Hatlet
- Sculptural hatlet of white beads and floral plaques. The hatlet is formed of a 4 cm. wide strip of stiffened mesh that curves around the head and forms a modified figure 8, with an additional extending loop. The surface of the mesh is covered in circular plastic (?) plaques 3.5 cm. in diameter cast with a floral relief pattern. The space between the plaques and on the edges of the hatlet are covered in tiny white spherical beads. Inner side of the hatlet is lined in stiff white mesh and edged in a thin strip of off-white velvet, and has a section with a wider, larger velvet lining. Possibly a wedding headpiece. Designer's label inside hatlet: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Gift of Mrs. William O. Hunt, of Finders Keepers, Chicago, Illinois digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38086/
- Bergère Hat
- Black silk organza bergère-style hat. The hat has a floppy double-layer brim, the under brim of slightly stiffer black silk organza, overlaid with upper brim of same material. The low, circular crown is encircled at the base by a folded black ribbon, which ties at back and has trailing ends. Inside base of crown is band of black grosgrain ribbon. Sewn into ribbon is designer label: "Galanos". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30002/
- Cartwheel Hat
- Natural straw cartwheel or picture hat. The wide, slightly floppy, brim slopes up to the low circular domed crown. Around the crown is a black silk scarf attached in three places with black bows, with trailing section off of the back of the brim. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30000/
- Ensemble - Blouse and Skirt
- Ensemble. The skirt is of heavy gold felt covered with black floral lace, which has been heavily "beaded" with sequins. Side zipper closure, and two side-seam pockets. Retailer's label inside skirt on side seam: "Neiman-Marcus". With black velvet belt, which is marked on reverse: "16 Charming Belts. 6406", "This / 'Bac-A-Belt' backing / guaranted by / Good Housekeeping" / wash or clean / as garment". The accompanying blouse is of black silk jersey with half length sleeves and gathered detail at scoop neckline. Center back zipper closure that extends full length of the garment. Inner waistband of grosgrain ribbon with hook and eye closure. No labels in blouse. From the original Carrie Marcus Neiman Foundation collection of fashion assembled by Stanley and Edward Marcus. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30004/
- Ensemble - Dress and Coat
- Ensemble consisting of green leather jacket and green and black striped knit dress with green leather belt. The sheath-style street-length dress is of wool jersey with a knitted pattern of horizontal green and black stripes. It has very short sleeves and a wide boat neckline, and is unlined. The dress has an accompanying green leather belt that ends in fringe. The street-length coat is of matching green leather, with long sleeves and tuxedo collar that extends to lower hem. The center-front opening has no closures, and there is a welt pocket at each side seam. The coat is lined in the same fabric the dress is made from, and faces the tuxedo collar and opening. There are no designer labels in the garments, and the coat has retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Trophy Room". From the original Carrie Marcus Neiman Foundation collection of fashion assembled by Stanley and Edward Marcus. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30009/
- Dress
- Dress of oyster white linen. The daytime dress is designed as a "Sailor Dress", with a straight silhouette and short sleeves. It has a blue "sailor collar" trimmed with two bands of white linen. The sleeves are likewise edged in a wide blue band with two white linen stripes. There is a red silk faille tie. The street-length skirt has two patch pockets at front. Zipper closure at left side. The dress is unlined, and has inner waistband of oyster grosgrain ribbon with hook-and-eye closure. Designer's label sewn inside skirt at left side: "Traina-Norell / New York". The dress has an accompanying narrow navy blue leather belt. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30055/
- Cocktail Dress
- Cocktail dress of black wool jersey knit. The late-day dress is of mid-length, with boat/scoop neckline and short sleeves. The fitted torso has a natural waistline, and fitted hip-level yoke. From the waistline through the length of the yoke the skirt widens into a pleated/gathered black tissue faille flounce that extends down to the hem. Around the waist is an attached wide faille sash which ties in front forming a bow with trailing ribbons. The bodice of the dress is lined in black, and the skirt has a heavy fabric underskirt and two attached layers of net crinolines. Joint designer's and retailer's label sewn inside skirt: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30054/
- Pillbox Hat
- Pillbox hat of striped fabric. The low-crowned cylindrical hat is covered in a gray fabric having red, green, black, white, and gold stripes reminiscent of a man's tie. Around the crown the fabric is pleated and draped, giving the effect of a low turban. Lined in a pink satin, with dusty rose pink grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Glued into the crown lining is a homemade(?) hand embroidered label: "Jo Bailey Hats" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30292/
- Pumps
- Pair of metallic leather pumps. Shoes of textured pink or rose metallic hue with silver undertones, edged in black velvet on vamp and around peep-toe. Slingback, fastened by black rhinestone-accented buckles. 3 1/4" spike/stiletto heels covered in the same leather. Each shoe marked inside vamp: "4 1/2 M 4311-SLW / 26080". Stamped on left shoe: "Herbert Levine / Fine Shoes"; Stamped on right shoe: "Neiman-Marcus". Stamped on both "Hand / Lasted". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30157/
- Pillbox Hat
- Pillbox hat of beige and bronze velvet. The low, circular crown of bronze velvet has inter-twined bands of bronze and beige velvet around it in a draped or swagged style. At front is applied a small bow made of the two velvets. Inner hatband of beige grosgrain ribbon. Affixed to the ribbon, one at each side, is a small plastic comb to secure the hat to the wearer's hair. The hat is lined in green fabric. Glued into the crown lining is a homemade(?) hand embroidered label: "Jo Bailey Hats" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30290/
- Hat
- Cocktail hat of violet silk satin. The hat is formed of a low, cylindrical, flat-topped pillbox-style crown covered in drapes of violet/purple silk satin fabric. At center front/top of the crown are two large sculptural stiffened loops of the fabric. Crown is lined in cream fabric. Along inside lower edge of crown is a cream grosgrain ribbon band. No labels. Donor stated: "...worn on back of head with upstanding loops in front, made for a grey lace three-quarter cocktail dress..." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30176/
- Dress
- Monastic Dress of red and black floral printed cotton. The dress is street-length, with natural shoulders, long sleeves and a high scoop neckline. At the waist is a black leather belt which passes through the garment at the sides, allowing the sides of the dress to be loose and flowing. The belt has a snap closure, and is designed to look "tied" at front. Also referred to as a Trapeze dress. Dress has two labels sewn inside at back of collar. Designer's label: "Claire McCardell Clothes / by Townley" and Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" Belt has stamped in white on the back: "10 Claire McCardell 608" From the original Carrie Marcus Neiman Foundation collection assembled by Stanley and Edward Marcus. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30030/
- Pillbox Hat
- Pillbox hat of black velvet. The low, cylindrical, slightly domed hat is completely covered in black velvet. Affixed to the center front of the hat is a roughly fan-shaped aigrette of simulated gems and metallic braid with a surmounting spray of white feathers. The crown is lined in black fabric, and has a black grosgrain ribbon running along the inside bottom edge. Sewn to the inner ribbon is a plastic comb to secure the hat to the wearer's head. No labels. The aigrette is attributed to Robert Goossens, of Paris, who is known to have supplied to Balenciaga. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30205/
- Hat
- Hat of reddish-pink wool. The derby style hat has a domed crown made of four sections of cloth that meet at center. Each section has chevrons of stitching, which point towards the center of the crown, giving a subtle quilted effect. Narrow brim rolls upwards at sides and back. A black suede(?) bow is applied to base of crown at center left. Inside base of crown is a band of pink grosgrain ribbon. Sewn to inner ribbon band is maker's label: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris" and label "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30237/
- Cloche
- Cloche-style hat of off-white wool felt. The hat has a deep, cylindrical, domed crown of off-white or cream felt which extends downwards on one side. Around the crown is black zig-zag stitching, and on the side where the crown extends downwards is an applied strip of felt, looped, secured through a stiffened loop of red grosgrain ribbon. The hat is unlined, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Sewn to inner ribbon band is maker's label: "Schiaparelli / Paris". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30234/
- Cocktail Dress
- Cocktail dress. The bodice of the dress is of sheer black wool, with a Peter Pan style collar and short sleeves which are shirred at the ends. There is a narrow black satin ribbon at waist where the bodice meets the skirt. The skirt is composed of three layers. The innermost layer is of thick black chiffon, the middle layer is thin black chiffon/crepe. The outer layer is of panels of black and white printed hounds tooth/plaid chiffon, the panels arranged vertically and slit from 5" below waistline to hemline. The panels are gathered/pleated into the waistband. At the top of each slit is an applied black satin bow, forming a row of bows around the hip-line of the skirt. Each panel has side borders of black satin ribbon. The dress has a center-back zipper from neckline to below hips, with a single hook-and-eye at top of collar. There is an inner black grosgrain ribbon waistband, with hook-and-eye closure. The bodice is lined in sheer black material. Designer's label inside skirt: "Galanos" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30072/
- Ensemble - Dress and Jacket
- (At Right) Ensemble of printed silk. This cocktail or dinner ensemble in the "New Look" consists of a dress and bolero-style jacket of printed floral Ikat silk with a black ground and floral design in gray, browns and dark brown/mauve shades. The dress is mid-calf-length, sleeveless, and with a boat neckline. Tailored to fit, with bust darts, there is an attached bow of the same fabric just below the bust on the front. Slightly dropped waist, with box pleating from waist down the skirt. At front there are two box pleats that start at bow and continue down the front of the dress. Center back zipper closure. The dress has built-in under-structure consisting of inner half-slip of off-white satin, and three layers of stiffened netting petticoats, all with horsehair braid at hem. The matching jacket is of the same cloth, cropped short in the bolero style. It has 3/4-length sleeves and no collar. The center-front opening has no closures. It is fully lined in a brown silk organza. Sewn into the hem are French weights. There is no label in the dress. The jacket has a single designer's label: "Printemps-Ete 1956 / Christian Dior / Paris" which has stamped on it "80615". The "1956" appears embossed, not printed, and the black backing of the label is cut away behind the "1956". The Spring/Summer 1956 line was called the Flèche ("Arrow")Line. Photograph is from the exhibition "Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers", held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows ensemble as displayed. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30071/
- Dress
- Dress. The mid-length dress has a pink crepe under-dress/slip which is overlaid with a black net sheath embellished with lavish black bead-work in the forms of rose-heads forming a trellis and fan-shapes in the openings of the trellis. The dress is sleeveless, with a high boat neckline. At natural waist is an attached pink satin belt with bow in front. Center back zipper, with section of hooks-and-eyes at upper part. The dress is accompanied by a long rectangular pink chiffon scarf. There are two labels in the dress, the Retailer's label "Neiman-Marcus" sewn inside at waist to right of zipper, and maker's label sewn inside near top of under-dress on left of zipper "Made in British Crown / Colony Hong Kong". No labels on scarf. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30225/
- Evening Gown
- Evening gown of heavily beaded beige silk satin. The bodice of the full-length gown has an empire waist, a wide scoop neckline, and is sleeveless. It has princess seaming, and internal boning at center front of the neckline. The skirt has fullness from the widening of the panels. The skirt and lower part of the bodice are beaded with floral/foliate forms in pinks, browns, yellows, clear and iridescent beads. The upper part of the bodice, in a deep band around neckline, back, and straps, is totally covered in iridescent sequins, beaded flower heads in bronze/brown and clear beads. The bodice is lined and has internal structures to help support and give form to the gown. The skirt is lined with stiff netting, and has an internal attached net crinoline. The gown has a center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at top. There are no labels in the garment. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30227/
- Ensemble - Dress and Coat
- (At Left) Evening ensemble of brown silk shantung. The camisole is sleeveless, with a boat neckline. Center back closure with 10 small circular buttons covered with matching fabric. The blouse is lined in dark brown silk, and has an inner structure of net and metal boning. The understructure extends below the top to give structure to the skirt. The inner net and boning layer has a center back closure of 14 hook-and-eyes, matching along same line as outer closure. The skirt is of matching materials, A-line, below-the-knee length. It has a 2" waistband decorated with horizontal ruching. Center-back zipper closure with two hook-and-eyes in waistband. The skirt has an attached black rayon gorgette underslip, and an attached black nylon petticoat. The petticoat has a horsehair braid incorporated in the hem for stiffening. The matching swing coat is calf length, with a rolled collar and short sleeves. It is constructed with several layers of organza for structure and a tuck panel around the coat for decoration and flounce. Lined in brown silk. There are no labels in the garment. Photograph is from the exhibition "Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers", held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows suit as displayed. From the original collection of the Dallas Museum of Fashion, which later became the Texas Fashion Collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30014/
- Evening Pumps
- Pair of slip-on evening pumps. Grey/green leather sole with clear vinyl upper, the upper trimmed at vamp with a 4-row band of rhinestones. Spike- or stiletto-style heels formed of clear Lucite embossed with vertical bands of foliate forms and with metal heel-cap. Blind-stamped into sole at ball of feet: "80 M 6641 / 3218-V678". Right shoe stamped: "Joléne / Hollywood Inspired / Made in U.S.A." The Joléne Hollywood Inspired brand/label was manufactured by the Tober-Saifer Shoe Manufacturing Company of St. Louis. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30061/
- Ensemble - Nightgown and Robe
- Ensemble consisting of a nightgown and robe of cream or pale peach nylon. Full-length robe with short sleeves and limp ruff collar. Opens down center front with hook-and-eye closure at waist and attached belt. Matching full-length nightgown is sleeveless, with wide straps. Nightgown opens at side with hook-and-eye closures and has string belt. Both pieces of the ensemble are fully accordion pleated on all parts. Robe has tag "Vanity Fair Nylon" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30066/
- Cocktail Suit
- (On Left) Cocktail suit of black silk satin. The waist-length jacket is formed of vertically arranged heat-set pleats with five horizontal bands applied across the pleats. There is a panel of ivory/off-white silk extending from the neck of the jacket, forming the collar of the jacket and simulating the effect of a blouse being worn under the jacket. The long sleeves are also pleated, with single band near the base of the sleeves, from which extend ivory/off-white silk mock cuffs. The jacket has a center front opening with three applied black bows on the lower three horizontal bands. The opening is secured with three hook-and-loop closures hidden by the bows. The jacket is lined in black silk. The matching mid-length skirt is of similarly pleated black silk, with a plain waistband and a single horizontal black silk band 2" below the waistband. There is three hook-and-loops in the waistband, and four snaps along closure at left hip. The skirt has a single panel of organza lining in back, the rest of the skirt being unlined to allow more movement of the fabric. Jacket has designer's label: "Chanel" Photograph is from the exhibition "Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers", held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows suit as displayed. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30046/
- Turban
- Turban of light brown velvet and burnt sienna / orange brown satin. Affixed to front is a large artificial flower in shades of pinks and pale greens, enhanced with maroon feathers. Lined in pale brown netting. Around inside of brim is band of light brown grosgrain ribbon. Label sewn onto ribbon: "An Original By / Henry's Hats". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30103/
- Calotte
- Calotte. The hat has a conical crown of stiffened green net overlaid with green straw woven/plaited loops and with attached artificial cherries and leaves. The calotte (also spelled "calot") has a thin green velvet trim along base of crown. Label sewn into inner edge of crown: "Styled by / Coralie", with "Finlan" written on edge of label. Behind the Coralie label is a Union label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30127/
- Hat
- Hat in the form of a modified turban. The slightly flattened conical crown is flat across the top, with a roll at top and bottom. The lower brim gently undulates, forming lower areas at sides. The whole is covered in gold braid, spirals of black and gold ribbon, various colored rhinestones and blue/green/opalescent beads. The hat is lined in black satin(?), with black grosgrain inner hatband. Designer's label sewn into crown: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30272/
- Evening Shoes
- Pair of red satin evening shoes. The deep red shoes have pointed toes and 3 1/2" stiletto heels which are lacquered red with tiny white dots and embellished all-over with rhinestones. Marked on sole: "6 / 1/2 / B / 05" and "Made in Italy". Label inside right shoe: "Vaccari / Italy Bologna". Stamped inside left shoe: "Made in Italy for / Neiman Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30215/
- Hat
- Hat of bright, light orange felt hat. The domed crown is wrapped with a "pleated" pale orange silk chiffon band, over which is a second layer of a very light gray/smoke colored net. The orange felt brim curves downwards. The underside of the brim is lined with the orange felt, while the crown is lined with white silk with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label sewn into crown: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30217/
- Pumps
- Pair of pumps. The open-toed shoes have vamps formed of black leather covered in a rhinestone-covered black fabric "bunched" at center with a circular rhinestone-set black metal button. Silver leather and elastic "spring-o-lators" linings. 3 1/4" black plastic spike heels set with rhinestones. Written inside vamp of each shoe: "6 1/2 [illeg.] / 1616ind / 6486" Stamped on each lining: "Neiman-Marcus" and "Spring-o-lators / Pat Pend" The spring-o-lator was invented by Beth Levine in the 1950's. The elastic created tension which kept backless heeled shoes on the feet. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30214/
- Hat
- Hat made from white straw. The high, cylindrical, slightly domed crown flares out slightly at bottom into an asymmetrical brim. The hat is composed of bands of 10 strands of straw that are twined and platted and woven into shape. Decorating the hat are applied small 4-petaled silk flowers placed all over. At side is a thin bow of white grosgrain ribbon. Unlined, but with an inner white grosgrain ribbon hatband. Sewn into the inner ribbon band is retailer's label, "Saks Fifth Avenue / Millinery Salon". Sewn to the back of the retailer's label is a Union Label, #DB 995583 digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30313/
- Toque
- Toque of fuschia felt. Cylindrical hat is covered in a fuschia/dark pink felt with over-lapping layers simulating a turban. Flattened top with slight ridge. The whole is covered in blue, green, and pink lines of stitching which radiate from the center of the crown outwards and down the sides. At the back of the hat is a bow of blue and red grosgrain ribbon. The hat is unlined, but has a red grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Sewn to inner ribbon band is designer's label: "Schiaparelli / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30185/
- Pillbox Hat
- Pillbox hat of paisley velveteen. The circular, domed hat is made of a velveteen fabric with printed paisley pattern in shades of green, red, brown, purple, cream, etc. At top of hat is a ball of the same materials. The entire hat and ball have added sewn-on colored rhinestones scattered throughout, and small gold beads. Lined in black cloth, with black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Sewn into inner hatband is retailer's label: "Innes / Wichita" Purchased at the Innes store, Wichita, Kansas. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30184/
- Turban
- Turban of gathered white net with small white flowers. Conical crown of stiff netting completely surrounded by gathered tulle net forming a dense "cloud", into which are placed tiny artificial white fabric daisies on small stems. Lined in a stiff patterned net edged with gold and cream braid. Sewn to inner braid is designer label: "Styled by / Jack McConnell / New York". With a pearl-headed hatpin. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30169/
- Red Leaf Hat
- Red leaf hat. Rounded conical hat of netting partly covered with red and pink silk leaves. Inside the hat, which has aspects of both a cloche and a toque, at the base of the crown, is a band of red grosgrain ribbon. Sewn into the ribbon band is designer's label: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30033/