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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Decade: 1930-1939
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Hat

Hat

Date: 1933
Creator: Descat, Rose
Description: Hat of royal blue velour. The crown is somewhat domed, of pieced velour, with a band of rolled dark blue satin around the base. The wide brim of matching velour is shaped to dip down and turn up slightly around the crown. The hat is unlined, with a band of dark blue grosgrain ribbon sewn in between the inner edge of the crown and the brim. Designer's label sewn inside: "Rose Descat / Paris", with a second label sewn to lower edge of designer's: "Made In France".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1932/1936
Creator: James, Charles
Description: Hat of gray felt. The sculptural piece is designed with elements of both a beret and a beanie. The crown is of oval shape with upwards sweeping and twisting panels of felt which meet at a point at the top of the crown. The shape is primarily held by blocking, with a few small stitches to maintain it. The base of the crown is sewn to a band of the same felt at bottom edge, forming an in-ward curving brim. The hat is unlined, the inner edge trimmed with black grosgrain ribbon. A small stitch mark on ribbon indicates the front of the hat. A think black cord attached to the ribbon helps secure the hat to wearer's head, to be looped around the back of the head. Designer's label sewn to inner ribbon: "Charles James / 15, Bruton Street, W.I."
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Gloves

Gloves

Date: 1930/1939
Creator: Julius Kayser & Co.
Description: Pair of ladies' gloves. The "hands" are of pale brown with white fabric, possibly a silk/cotton blend. Seamed on inside, they have 3 darts on back of each hand done with dark brown stitching. At wrist on each side is a v-shaped extension which joins to the "cuff", which is of light brown cotton with yellow tones. The scalloped edges of the "cuff" and semi-circular sections on the back of each are piped in dark brown fabric. The "cuffs" are styled as a wrap dress, with an overlap at back of wrist. The overlap has a single cylindrical button of black plastic designed to appear carved with three notches in the side revealing pale green/yellow below and at ends. Manufacturer's tag inside gloves: "Kayser, 52 * Reg / Made in Germany / 6"; Stamped in lining by tag: "Kayser 52". The gloves are accompanied by the original paper care tag: "WASH / GLOVES / ON HANDS / Use almost cool / water and a pure / mild soap. We re- / commend PALM- / OLIVE BEADS. Do / not rub. After wash- / ing take gloves off / rinse thoroughly in / cold water. Pull / lengthwise wrap / and ...
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1935/1939
Creator: Carnegie, Hattie
Description: Hat of green felt. Designed as a modified cloche, the had is formed of a deep, domed crown of green felt with a rolled edge at back that extends to become a high, curved brim in front. The front extension is crowned by a feathered ornament formed as a stylized bird looking downwards. The "bird" has tan and dark feathers for the tail, green feathers for neck and breast, and a black plastic(?) beak. Around the base of the crown is a band of dark gray/bronze colored net, which extends at front and sides to become a veil. Around inside of crown is dark brown/black grosgrain ribbon band. Sewn to inner ribbon band is maker's label: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Custom Made"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1935/1939
Creator: Florell, Walter, ca. 1911-1986
Description: Raised beret-style hat of creme felt. Stiffened body of hat has a sienna/orange-brown grosgrain ribbon bow at top of crown, with tails of bow extending to sides, along front to edge, and trailing off of the back of the hat. The hat is surmounted by a light-brown plume of ostrich feathers. Inside of brim lined with black grosgrain ribbon. There is a thin black elastic strap to go around the back of the head to secure the hat. Label sewn to inside band: "Walter Florell / 29 East 53rd New York".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1930
Creator: unknown
Description: Dress of printed nylon with metallic embroidery. The fabric is a printed nylon with abstract floral designs in browns, yellows, and oranges on a cream ground, with areas of metallic embroidered leaf forms over the whole of the dress. The formal dress is full-length, with a slight train. Sleeveless, it has wide straps and a shallow rounded neckline, which deepens into a V in back. The natural or low waist has seaming below below the bust to create a band of horizontal ruching just above the waist. The skirt has wide, deep scalloping around the edges. On the back of the dress is a bow of the same material, set just above the lower back. From the hips around to the back are added panels of the same fabric forming tiers of ruffles, and two long panels are attached below the ruffles to hang down back. Closure along left side, alternating snaps and hooks-and-eyes. The dress is unlined, although the back ruffle panels are lined in a dark mahogany brown/red silk. Sewn in ribbon with hand-written notation: "72 20 499 29-327/979" (faded)
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1939
Creator: Florell, Walter, ca. 1911-1986
Description: Hat of camel-colored cashmere felt. The crown is roughly cone-shaped, swelling at center and flattened at an angle at the top. Near the bottom of the crown is a band of black grosgrain ribbon, below which the hat swells out to become the asymmetrical brim. At center back is black grosgrain ribbon bow, to which is attached trailing golden tan/brown ostrich plumes. Inside crown is hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Sewn onto the inner ribbon is designer's label: "Walter Florell / 29 East 53rd New York".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1935
Creator: unknown
Description: Dress of black and purple diagonal woven stripe taffeta. It has a V- neckline in front and back, and has a fitted bodice with balloon peplum which gathers into the waist. Sleeveless, the dress has black velvet straps with striped flounces on each side and has black velvet petals attached to the straps. The long, straight skirt has a front slit. Dress has a center back zipper closure, and is unlined. No labels.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1930
Creator: unknown
Description: Dress of blue, green, pink, and black taffeta and satin in horizontal woven bands. The full-length dress has a sweetheart neckline which gathers at bust to simulate a bow. The fitted bodice has short raglan-style sleeves with gathers at the shoulder seams. The long skirt is gathered at the natural waist. The dress is unlined, and has hook-and-eye closures on left side along bodice.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Jacket and Dress

Ensemble - Jacket and Dress

Date: 1935
Creator: unknown
Description: Evening ensemble of a dress, jacket and belt. The full-length sleeveless evening dress is of black silk, with a slim silhouette. It has a wide, shallow V-neck at front, and has decorative twist in the fabric at back, which creates a deeper V. The wide straps are ruched at front with non-functional rhinestone-encrusted clasps sewn to them. The bodice has decorative seaming under bust and around the hips. The dress has a black silk belt with a rhinestone-encrusted "buckle", which functions as a large hook-and-eye rather than a buckle. The jacket is of matching black silk, lined with a cream-colored taffeta. The short, bell-shaped sleeves have a second "layer" creating the effect of a wide ruffle. Padded tubes of silk curve along each shoulder, tapering under the arm at front and back. There is a center front opening with no closure, which is "cut away" in a curve at front, giving the overall effect of a miniature 'cropped' opera cape. No labels in either garment. Possibly acquired by Ms. Hewett in France in the 1930's while studying medieval music manuscripts.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design