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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Country: United States
 Decade: 1900-1909
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Driving Coat

Driving Coat

Date: 1900/1914
Creator: unknown
Description: Driving Coat or "Duster" of light tan linen (blend?). Full-length, wide skirted, with high neckline and black collar having wide points at front. Single breasted opening set to left of center, with two hidden small white buttons (1 at throat, one at left collar bone), and five large circular buttons with black outer rims and center of the tan linen. Full-length sleeves with wide turned-back cuffs faced with black and with two non-functioning buttons matching but smaller than opening buttons. Two large patch pockets at hips. Unlined. No labels in garment.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1909/1912
Creator: unknown
Description: Dress of midnight blue velvet with cream silk(?) bodice overlaid with pleated sheer black fabric. Rounded neckline edged with black lace, with wired standing collar at back of neck. Long pointed sleeves of matching velvet with wide collars of black net/corded lace overlaying cream silk sleeves trimmed with cream lace. Long, full skirt gathers onto waist under a 3" wide, attached velvet belt trimmed with net covered in black sequins and jet beads with round buckle. Hem with wide black net/corded lace band over sheer black silk(?), with narrow triple-layer black silk gauze ruffle at bottom. With accompanying bolero style vest of black net with applique cording/corded lace. Fastens across front with narrow ribbon of midnight blue velvet with central "pendant" butterfly of black sequins and jet bead as head of butterfly.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dressing Gown

Dressing Gown

Date: 1900~
Creator: unknown
Description: Dressing gown/wrapper of black peau de soie. Mother Hubbard style, full-length, shawl collar trimmed with 2 tiers of ruffles of same, and white lace and black velvet ribbon and then bands of white cording overlaid with/couched down with black stitching. Long sleeves with turned 3" back-turned cuffs with white cording and black velvet trim. Hook and eye closure CF. Long velvet ribbon ties at throat. Pleated at center back, with short horizontal diamond-shaped "belt" across lower back, below which is more pleating. Label: "Meyer Jonasson & Co / Pittsburg. New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Child's Dress

Child's Dress

Date: 1900/1910
Creator: unknown
Description: Child's "apron" dress of woven red and blue striped flannel with collar and one box pleat in front. Center front opening with snap at neckline. No belt - possibly missing.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1904
Creator: unknown
Description: Hat of dull golden horsehair mesh over wire framework. Cylindrical crown widening to base of horsehair constructed in a spiral, on wire armature. Side of crown with wide black velvet band with self bow at back. Slightly oval brim of same horsehair set so sides are wider than front or back. Brim slopes slightly from crown to outer rim, with thin wire framework to retain shape. Attached at sides are sprays of artificial flowers and leaves. Underside of brim lined with gathered extremely fine pale chiffon. Crown has inner rigid structure that extends below brim, creating a "support" that rests on wearer's head. Exterior of inner structure lined with black velvet, inner lining of white fabric with "drawstring" center gather. No labels or tags.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Bonnet

Bonnet

Date: [1900..1909]
Creator: unknown
Description: Child's poke-type bonnet of white silk. Completely shirred and trimmed with white satin ribbon, outlined with lace. High crown to which circular shirred flange has been added. Label inside crown mostly illegible; last word is "Chicago".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoes

Shoes

Date: [1907..1930]
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of shoes of off-white leather. Designed with pointed toes, the shoes have uppers cut to create a large tongue with upper edged cut to a point. Applied to vamp is medium sized bow of same leather. Modified Louis heel covered with same leather. Retailer's label stamped inside: "Neiman Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Bonnet

Bonnet

Date: 1900
Creator: unknown
Description: Infant's bonnet of white cotton, possibly as part of a christening set. Lace inset and tucking near brim. Gathered shell. Ties of self.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Bonnet

Bonnet

Date: 1900~
Creator: unknown
Description: Child's sunbonnet of white cotton. Channel-stitched. Corded brim that also stiffens and shapes bonnet. Long curtain of same.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pumps

Pumps

Date: 1900?
Creator: unknown
Description: Pumps of gray suede. Shoes have a slightly rounded toe, and a wide strap across vamp to which is applied a large gray ribbon bow with central silver-colored metal rectangular buckle shape. Medium 1 3/4' high modified Louis or cuban heel.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoes

Shoes

Date: 1900/1910
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of tan calf leather and tan cloth (canvas?). The shoes, designed with pointed toes, close along center front with laces, 19 holes high. Lower section of shoes are of tan leather, embellished with tiny holes along stitching lines and in scrolling motifs at toe-boxes. Upper parts of shoes are of heavy tan fabric, likely canvas. High heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Sole of tan leather. Stamped on lining: "16 0 21632X"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoes

Shoes

Date: 1900/1905
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of white satin ladies' shoes. Styled with pointed-toes, the white satin upper has tabs which extend across the instep to form closure. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Back and sides of heel covered in matching leather. Lined in white leather. Natural brown leather sole. Retailer's stamp inside: "Sanger Bros. / Dallas & Waco." Maker's code stamped inside: "35 - 2 36463" Stamped on sole: "35 - / 2"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Boots

Boots

Date: 1900/1909
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of lady's boots of black leather and wool broadcloth. The "high button shoes" are designed with pointed toes gently rounded at tips. The lower part, including vamp, are of black leather. The upper part is of black wool broadcloth edged at scalloped top with black leather, and with black leather accent band running from heel partly up the back of the boot. The boots lace up along the front with 20 holes. Lined at top with reddish/orange fabric, the body of the shoe lined in white fabric. High heels are rounded at sides and back, flaring slightly to base, and curved at front. Black leather soles. Stamped notation inside: "3 1/2 B R251"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoes

Shoes

Date: 1901/1909
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of dark brown kid leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, lace closed along center front with laces 18 holes high. Medium height heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, tapering to base, and with curved front section. Sole of black leather. Partially illegible notation stamped inside on lining: "050 8186K 6"(?)
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Boots

Boots

Date: 1900/1910
Creator: Healthways (USA)
Description: Pair of boots or "High Button Shoes" of black leather. The shoes, designed with rounded pointed toes, lace closed along center front with laces 16 holes high. The low, stacked heels are rounded at sides and back, and are curved at front. The sole is of black leather. Shoes are lined in black leather and off-white cloth. The base of the heel is of black rubber(?) with molded grips. Manufacturer's mark molded into heel: "[Image of a walking man] / Healthway / USA". Stamped into sole: "Combination / Last" Handwritten notation on lining: "4/1/6 18261* / 51|23"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Wedding Shoes

Wedding Shoes

Date: 1902
Creator: unknown
Description: Wedding shoes of off-white leather. The shoes have pointed toes, and a "Mary-Jane" style strap across the instep which secures with a domed opalescent button. At throat of each shoe is a rectangular ornamental buckle covered with matching leather. The medium-high heel tapers slightly to the base and is covered with matching leather on the rounded sides and back; it has the same natural brown colored leather on the heel's curved inside and on the soles of the shoes. Retail's label stamped inside one shoe: "Sanger Bros. / Dallas Texas" Stamped inside both shoes on leather upper: "36-2 68082" The shoes are accompanied by a shoe bag of tan colored raw silk with a Japanese character style embroidery motif of blue silk worked in satin stitch. Worn by Jessie Knapp Nunnally of San Angelo, TX, at her wedding in 1902.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoes

Shoes

Date: 1900~
Creator: unknown
Description: None
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Wedding Shoes

Wedding Shoes

Date: 1901
Creator: C.A. Verner Co. (Pittsburgh, PA)
Description: Pair of ladies' white heavy satin wedding shoes. Designed with pointed toes, the shoes have a fastening strap across instep with a single domed opalescent/milky white glass button. Across vamp is applied white satin bow with decorative gilt metal rectangular buckle with lobed ends. One buckle missing. Lined in white fabric. Sole of natural brown leather, heel covered in white satin. Medium-height heel with rounded sides and back, curving inwards and then flaring out to base, similar to a Louis heel. Stamped inside shoe in gilt: "C.A. Verner / Pittsburgh" Worn by Bess McChord (1874-1903) at her wedding to Clifford Dunnells, January 1, 1901.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Wedding Shoes

Wedding Shoes

Date: 1907
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of white kid ladies' shoes. Styled with pointed-toes, the white kid leather upper has a vamp decorated with geometric and stylized foliate designs in crystal beads. The shoes secure across instep with single ribbon tie on each, creating a "peep" just above toes. Lined in white leather. Natural brown leather sole. Heel is of medium height, rounded at back and tapering slightly to base. Similar to what would become a Cuban heel. Maker's code stamped inside: "35-C 3021" Worn by Norma Tiemann at her marriage to Val L. Lehmann in Brenham, Texas in 1907.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoes

Shoes

Date: 1908/1910
Creator: Drew Shoe Company (Portsmouth, Ohio)
Description: Pair of lady's shoes of brown leather. The shoes, designed with gently pointed toes, are of the Oxford style of brown leather with openwork at sides of instep and with laced closure at instep of 4 holes height. The medium height heels are styled as a modified Cuban or continental heel, with rounded sides and back, tapering to base, and slightly curved at front. The heels covered with matching leather. Sole of tan leather, with rubber/composite on heel. Stamped in lining on one shoe: "Arch Rest / Drew / Portsmouth. O." Stamped into lining of shoe: "8 1/2 AAA 75537 / 6003" Stamped on inner sole: "[drawing of arrow] INTERIOR / DREW / [illeg]CK REST" Tooled into inner sole at heel: "SNUG-FITTING / HEEL" Molded into rubber of heel: "Biltrite"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoes

Shoes

Date: 1908/1910
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of lady's shoes of black leather and gray suede. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, are of black leather on toe box, and gray suede on heel, back, and strap across instep, which closes with button on outside of foot. Medium high heels are covered in matching suede and are styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, and with curved front section. Sole of black leather. Retailer's stamp on sole: "MacDougall & Southwick Co. / Seattle, Wash." Hand-written notation on lining: "40 00 20704"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Sunbonnet

Sunbonnet

Date: 1900/1909
Creator: unknown
Description: Sunbonnet of off-white calico cotton with a tiny repeated print of three stylized leaves in brown. The brim of the hat is quilted in L-shaped rows of stitching and is very stiff from starch and stiffening material within it. The crown is gathered along the entire length of the seam where it attaches to the brim. The crown and tail are formed from a single piece of fabric, and the tail is stitched flat to the lower sides of brim. The neck is adjustable, having outer neck ties stitched to the lower corners of the brim on both sides. The chin ties are of the same fabric, with unfinished edges. The long tail on the bonnet indicates that it was used as a field bonnet. The TFC thanks Rebecca Jumper Matheson for her research on this object.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Boots

Boots

Date: 1900
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of boots or "High Button Shoes" of gray/silver lamé cloth. The shoes, designed with pointed toes rounded at the tips, lace closed along center front with laces 18 holes high. The high heels are rounded at sides and back, tapering to center and flaring back out at base, and are curved at front. They are covered with the lamé fabric on the back and sides. The sole is of tan and brown leather, as is the cap on the heel. Shoes are lined in off-white cloth. Hand-written notation on inside lining, partly illegible: "37 / .... / 911"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1905
Creator: unknown
Description: Little girl's Easter bonnet. Wired base with mushroom type top of black velvet and double ruffled brim of white lace. Small pink roses and green stems encircle hat above lace brim.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
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