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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Country: United States
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
[Fashion Design]

[Fashion Design]

Date: 1950/1980
Creator: Wolff, Lilli
Description: Original fashion design by Lilli Wolff. Possibly for a festival gown, design for a female figure with tiered full skirted dress. Believed to have been done between 1945 and 1960, most likely in Dallas, Texas.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Trench Coat

Trench Coat

Date: Autumn 1954
Creator: Pietro
Description: Trench coat of brown and white tweed wool. Street length, double breasted, with bracelet-length sleeves with wide turned-back cuffs. Secured at front with four large brown faux-tortoiseshell buttons in two pairs, and a fifth inner upper left collar point to secure label/placket. Slit pockets at hips. Lined in brown silk(?) Combined Designer's / Retailer's label at center back inside collar: "Pietro / Neiman-Marcus" [on same line, Pietro in tall thin letters at center, Neiman-Marcus in shorter thick letters extending across. Fabric maker's label at inside right side "Anglo Fabrics / 100%Wool" embroidered "over" a coat of arms design in damask with legend reading "Webster Dudley / Quality and Style". With accompanying belt covered in matching wool tweed, with rectangular buckle covered in same fabric. Backed in dark brown leather. Stamped on reverse: "10"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Dress, Jacket, and Muff

Ensemble - Dress, Jacket, and Muff

Date: 1938~
Creator: Milgrim, Sally
Description: Evening ensemble of golden olive green lightweight wool twill: A) Short jacket. No collar, center front opening with 4 hook-and-loop closures. Back has section of bloused fabric giving the effect of a faux hood hanging back. Wide bands of decoration on front, yoke, and on faux "hood" of back, in the form of golden vines of gold braid and leaves and flowers of gold and pearl beads. Fully lined in olive silk crepe. Label at center back inside neckline: "Milgrim". B) Full length evening dress of matching fabric. Sleeveless, wide straps. Moderate neckline with "bow" effect at front. Just below knot of bow is accent of brown mink. Slight train to back of skirt. Side zipper closure. Fully lined in green silk crepe matching jacket. Label inside skirt: "Milgrim" C) Muff of matching fabric. Large trapezoidal shaped muff, the front with two large tiers of mink tails and a large bow with floral pattern in tiny white seed beads accented in gold beads and with scrolling gold embroidery. Zipper compartment on back. Label inside pocket: "This Article / 10 Year Guarantee" "Berlou / Moth / Proofed"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt - Vest, Skirt, and Dickey

Skirt - Vest, Skirt, and Dickey

Date: 1968~
Creator: Beene, Geoffrey
Description: Suit/ensemble of maize-yellow linen(?) (Possibly blend), consisting of: A) Vest/Sleeveless jacket. Waist-length or slightly lower. Front opening, slightly off-center to left side, with three faux thick, circular, "nobbly", chunky buttons in false buttonholes on plaquet, secured with 6 hidden cloth-covered snaps. Princess seams. Spread collar. Fully lined in yellow silk(?). Designer's label at inside right front flap: "Geoffrey Beene". B) Skirt. Knee-length or slightly below. Narrow, slightly A-line due to darts and fitting at narrow waistband. Two hooks and snap on waistband at left, above zipper. Front with small gathers. Slit pockets at hips. Fully lined in yellow silk(?). Retailer's label at inside seam near hem: "Neiman-Marcus" C) Dickey of gray to black and dark ivory silk. Triangular shape, with collar, attaches with four hidden snaps, with dress weights sewn into lower point and to space slightly below throat. Printed in a pattern of patches of grey/black hatching on the dark ivory ground. No labels on garment.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Dress

Evening Dress

Date: 1963~
Creator: Galanos, James
Description: Evening dress of rose wool crepe with modified princess seaming. Full length; sleeveless. Scoop neckline with squared bottom. Gusset on right seam at hem. Center back closure of three large conical buttons fashioned from magenta/purple and white marbled spherical beads; closure supported with six covered snaps and hook & eye; bound buttonholes cut on a diagonal. Lined in pink silk douppioni. Designer's label at left underarm: "Galanos" Retailer's label at right underarm: "Neiman-Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Poster Dress: "The Cat"

Poster Dress: "The Cat"

Date: 1968
Creator: Gordon, Harry
Description: "The Cat" (aka "Pussy Cat") poster dress. Mini-dress of screen printed "paper" (75% rayon, 25% nylon? or tissue/rayon/wood pulp), of simple a-line shape, rounded neckline, sleeveless, with velcro opening at left shoulder. Velcro along left seam. Approx. knee-length. Unlined. Label has detached from center back inside neckline, held on hanger with safety pin. "London" Poster tm Dress" "Medium"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Day Dress

Day Dress

Date: 1950~
Creator: Simpson, Adele
Description: Day dress of olive green ground with small floral print in browns and creams. Street-length, with no collar and V-neckline. Slight gathers at sides of neckline. Short dolman sleeves with underarm gussets. Bodice is double-breasted, with self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes. A-line skirt, pleats/gathers at waistline. Lined in gold silk faille. Designer's label at left side seam: "Adele Simpson" Retailer's label at left side seam: "Neiman-Marcus" With matching contour belt of brown leather covered with same silk print. Rectangular buckle covered with same fabric. No labels/marks on belt.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Minidress

Minidress

Date: 1968~
Creator: Haggins, Jon
Description: Minidress of grey ribbed polyester knit; bias cut. Sleeveless with wide armholes. A-line; knee length. Scoop neck front and back with cutout at center back of yoke. Slim silhouette; four panels with slit pockets at sides of center front panel. Zipper closure at back of left side panel. Lined in gray polyester. Designer's label at inside side seam: "Jon Haggins"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Gown

Evening Gown

Date: 1941~
Creator: unknown
Description: Evening gown of rose pink silk. Full-length, sleeveless, with sweetheart neckline and thin satin cord double-straps at each shoulder. Bodice with fan-shaped radiating seaming from center line outwards over each cup, but not meeting at center point - left side starting higher than right. Raised waist, into which skirt is gathered. From sides, towards front, and down along sides of front is "fin" of same fabric, which extends out, with slight "ruffle" effect to edge. Center back zipper closure. Part-lined in very pale peach/pink fabric (bust, upper abdomen, etc. Retailer's label inside skirt at side seam, partly printed, partly hand-written: "Bergdorf-Goodman / Fifth Ave., New York / Mrs. R. Lloyd / Date: 10/13/41 No. 17313"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Infant's Dress

Infant's Dress

Date: 1887/1890
Creator: unknown
Description: Infant's dress of fine batiste cotton with broderie anglaise. Yoke has attached 4"ruffle of broderie anglaise with insertion lace and pink satin ribbon. Long sleeves have insertion lace cuffs and pink satin ribbon. Full length. No labels in garment.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Suit - Jacket and Skirt

Suit - Jacket and Skirt

Date: 1949
Creator: Irene
Description: Suit of beige linen with bands of beige silk embroidered fan-shapes. Suit consists of: A) Jacket. Waist-length or slightly longer, single-breasted, with 5 self-covered and embroidered conical buttons and bound button holes. Long sleeves with turned-back cuffs secured at openings. Bust darts for fitting. Collar and lapels with bands of same embroidery as rest of suit. Single pocket above left breast, with bound buttonhole style opening, and smaller bound buttonhole style opening horizontally above main opening. Lined in beige silk. Torso of jacket with three horizontal bands of beige embroidered bands of fan shapes, sleeves with two bands, and then with cuffs covered with the embroidery. Combined designer's/retailer's label at inside back neckline: "Irene / Exclusively for / Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" B) Skirt. Street-length, straight skirt with slight darts around waist for fitting. 1 1/8" wide waistband, with inner beige grosgrain petersham. Waistband and petersham with hook-and-eye closures over left side zipper. Skirt has 4 wide bands of embroidery, each band consisting of rows of beige fan-shapes. Unlined. No labels in skirt.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Child's Dress

Child's Dress

Date: 1876
Creator: unknown
Description: Child's dress of black wool with red paisley trim. Full length dress, with turned down collar of paisley print. Long sleeves with 4" cuffs trimmed in matching paisley print. Center front opening with 15 nonfunctional paisley covered buttons with hook & eyes underneath. Side pockets trimmed in paisley print. Center back panel is gathered at waist to give slight bustle effect and is belted in paisley print with oval buckle in black ribbed fabric. Lined in brown polished cotton.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Coat

Evening Coat

Date: 1910~
Creator: unknown
Description: Evening coat of cream/ecru wool with beige velvet accents and braided cream cord trim. Full length; center front opening with single hook & eye closure. Wide, 3/4 length dolman sleeves with velvet cuffs. Silk cord in scroll and chain pattern outlined front, sleeves and back to waist. Two inside pockets; ivory silk lining.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Wedding Dress

Wedding Dress

Date: 196u
Creator: unknown
Description: Wedding dress. Off-white wedding dress of polyester(?). Mini length, with rounded scooped neckline, short sleeves, and slightly raised waist. Center front of bodice with wide vertical band of white lace from neckline to waist. Sleeves are short, gathered into shoulder, and appear to have two flounces of lace, but are actually two sleeves each, a shorter and a slightly longer inside, creating the flounced look. Skirt gathered into waist. Center back zipper. The inside neckline hem edge, and inside edge of lower hem with narrow off-white lace "tape" binding. No labels in garment. With ribbon sash belt of off-white/ivory satin, 1 1/2" wide x 89" long, with swallow-tail ends. With accompanying headpiece/veil. Off-white satin covered headband with white embroidered/appliqued scrolling foliage forms set with tiny pearls and crystals. Attached to headband are two layers of fine off-white net/tulle veiling, shoulder and mid-back length. Small metal comb attached to headband to secure to wearer's head. Satin ribbon lining to headband. No labels in headband.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Day Dress

Day Dress

Date: 1955/1964
Creator: Parnis, Mollie
Description: Day dress of printed cotton, brown on white, with black "spots" in a very tiny geometric pattern. Just below knee length. Double collar and cuffs with white cotton(?) button-in, detachable panels. Short sleeves, pleated into hems. V-neckline below collar, which has lower placket opening with three circular black buttons and bound buttonholes, and one hook-and-loop at waist, inner petersham with hooks and eyes, and series of 4 hidden snaps at center front of skirt. Natural waist, into which bodice and skirt are pleated. Full skirt. Lined in ivory organza/organdy. Designer's label at inside left seam of skirt: "Mollie Parnis / New York" Union label near designer's label. Size label at inside of skirt opening: "Size 10" With accompanying belt of black patent leather; 2" wide with square buckle.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Wedding Dress

Wedding Dress

Date: 1974/1979
Creator: unknown
Description: Wedding dress of white chiffon(?), tulle, and lace. Full-length, full skirt. Empire waist. Long sleeves, with 3" lace cuffs and lace ruffle and two bands of matching lace running length of sleeve. Lace ruffle around shoulder. Square neckline, filled in with lace, which rises to form high standing collar with ruffle. Band of lace at waist and two bands down front. Cathedral train with two tiers of self at lower part of skirt, edged in lace. Lapped center back zipper. Attached slip of ivory synthetic, and very full layer of tulle. Tiers also with under layer of tulle. Union Label inside skirt. With matching headpiece/veil. Rigid cylindrical headpiece of stiffened, wired lace, the sides of which extend down in points, from the crown of which spring 3 layers of white tulle, the shortest (shoulder length) and middle (calf-length) layers edged with lace to match dress, the longest (trailing behind) with plain edge.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Coat

Coat

Date: 1956/1966~
Creator: unknown
Description: Coat of golden seal fur with mink collar. Hip-length "Stroller" coat has long sleeves and center-front opening with three large circular simulated wood buttons. Large patch pockets. Collar of black mink. Retailer's label inside back collar: "Neusteters" Fur Authority Label inside right pocket.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Child's Sundress

Child's Sundress

Date: 1956
Creator: Ballew, Joan & Skillman, Hope
Description: Child's sundress of horizontally striped blue, brown, and white cotton delusted satin. Rounded neckline, higher in front than back; sleeveless. Neckline and armholes piped in matching blue fabric. Left side closure with 5 buttons. Full skirt, gathered at waistline with blue piping. Tie belt of same fabric attached at sides and ties in back. Upper bodice lined of cream colored muslin. Maker's label at inside back neck: "Kate / Greenaway / Frock" Paper size tag behind maker's tag. Original Hope Skillman paper tag attached, with hand-written note identifying designer Joan Ballew.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Blouse, Pants, and Sash

Ensemble - Blouse, Pants, and Sash

Date: 1979~
Creator: Mori, Hanae
Description: Ensemble of magenta silk chiffon consisting of: (A) Tunic style top of printed chiffon with bodice in lotus flower motif. Low crossover, V-shaped front with closure of two covered snaps. Long flowing, bell-shaped sleeves and flared skirt. Skirt and sleeve hems have monofilament inserted to give body and shape. Bodice lined in light blue rayon chiffon. Designer's label at center back neckline: "(Japanese characters) / Hanea Mori " Retailer's label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus" Content/care label at center back neckline. Size "14" tag attached to base of designer label. (B) Pants of magenta silk chiffon. Wide legs of three layers of chiffon. Center back opening of five covered snaps with hook & bar and additional covered snap on 1" waistband. Size "14" tag at center back. (C) Sash of matching lotus flower motif printed chiffon.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1989~
Creator: Mori, Hanae
Description: Dress in shift style of violet, blue and pink flower motif silk with outer layer of black chiffon. Attached cape overlay on back in black chiffon with matching flower motif. Square neck elasticized at shoulders scoops in back; elbow length butterfly sleeves of black chiffon. Center back zipper with hook & eye on dress and covered snaps on cape. Lined in black rayon. Designer's label at back neckline: "(Japanese characters) / Hanae Mori" Size "10" tag attached to base of designer label. Content/care label at back neckline. Retailer's label on center back seam of dress near hem: "Neiman-Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Child's Dress

Child's Dress

Date: 1873
Creator: unknown
Description: Child's dress of black & tan woven cotton check/plaid. Full-length, with high, rounded collar. Set in black taffeta full-length sleeves with wide cuffs of the black/tan check, secured with two mother of pearl buttons each. Natural waist. Hem with wide band of ruffled black taffeta and a plain band of black taffeta running slightly above hem. Patch pocket at right hip composed of plaid panels formed as a "vest", with black taffeta ruffle filling in center, and three non-functioning circular mother of pearl buttons on slight curve following edge of "vest" front non-functioning opening. Center back opening with 9 circular mother of pearl buttons and hook & loop at neckline.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1974/1978
Creator: Traina, Teal
Description: Dress of yellow nylon and chiffon with floral print in greens, white, and pale orange. Full-length dress consists of layers. Inner yellow nylon(?) sheath, sleeveless, with neckline with slight, shallow rounding. Center back zipper. Outer layer is attached to inner only at neckline and armholes. Full-length, flowing outer layer of yellow chiffon with floral print. Vertical pin tucks at left and right of neckline from shoulders mid-bust. Long, flowing panels from shoulders, not true sleeves, not closed along underside/inside of arm, but extending as over-sized cap sleeves - also described as "open kimono sleeves" or "over-sized flutter sleeves". Center back closure with 12 self covered buttons and loops. Designer's label at inside back zipper: "Teal Traina / New York" Care label at side seam near hem: "Professionally / Dry Clean / Only" Union label at side seam near hem. Size label at side seam near hem: "10" Spare cloth-covered button sewn near union/care/size labels.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Infant's Ensemble (Dress and Slip)

Infant's Ensemble (Dress and Slip)

Date: 1910~
Creator: unknown
Description: Infant's ensemble of fine white persian lawn consisting of: A) Infant's dress of white batiste cotton. Full length dress gathers into square yoke with narrow, vertical rows of fine eyelet and hair pin lace. Two rows of pin tucking separated by two rows of eyelet and hair pin lace matching yoke at bottom with 2-1/2" ruffle of scalloped eyelet lace at hem. Round neckline trimmed in lace. Long sleeves with lace at hem; center back opening. B) Slip of white batiste cotton. Neckline and armholes trimmed in lace. Full length. Narrow row of pin tucks and row of eyelet and hair pin lace matching dress with matching ruffle of scalloped, eyelet at hem. Closure of mother-of-pearl buttons at shoulders. No labels in garment.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1950~
Creator: unknown
Description: Dress of white silk with multicolored bird and foliage print. Squared neckline with double collar. Short set-in sleeves with two reverse tucks at cuff. Mid-calf length. Two layers of reversed tucks below natural waist line. Back interest of three tiers of sculptural pleating simulating a flat bustle; folds are attached on right and close on left with three snaps. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Unlined. With matching belt of same fabric, 1-1/2" wide. Rectangular, self-covered buckle.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design