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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Country: France
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox of gray fur felt. The low, cylindrical crown is flattened at top, with slight domed effect at center. The hat is unlined, with inner gray grosgrain ribbon hatband. Retailer's label sewn inside: "Neiman-Marcus". Stamped inside crown is origin label: "Body Made In France". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461764/
Skirt Suit
Daytime skirt suit of Prince of Wales check wool in gray with pink and brown check. The skirt suit consists of: A) Jacket, hip length, with full-length sleeves. Center front opening secured with hooks and eyes. 4 pockets at front, each with turned-back cuff pockets of silk brocade at breast level and below waist; the silk brocade of ecru background with pink and red flowers on green vines; asymmetric flared peplum at back featuring geometric cut; stand up collar is lined in matching silk brocade. B) Skirt of matching wool, straight and knee-length, with an 8” slit at center-back with inset of fan-like accordion pleated godet. C) Two matching pair of shoes, one pair of silk brocade matching the pocket flaps, and the other pair of gray wool matching the rest of the outfit. Both pair are heeled pumps designed with pointed toe, the heels are a modified spike. Lined in gold leather. The shoes are all stamped "Dal Co' / Roma". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461875/
Coat
Coat of intricate patchwork of Prince of Wales wool plaid, wool hounds tooth, wool petit point, all-over embroidered with pewter metallic floral vines. Knee length. Simulated double breasted, off-center opening with hidden placket button closure; notched collar. Long sleeves with 6 functioning button closure at wrists. Two flap pockets with welts at each front hip with lapels; pockets not open. Knee-length. Fan pleating at back. Fully lined in gray silk. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Givenchy / Haute Couture" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402522/
Evening Jacket
Jacket of black satin covered with velvet floral and embroidery appliques. Hip-length jacket flares from waist to hem. Standing portrait collar with sweetheart neckline. Long fitted sleeves with flared black satin cuffs. Center front opening with 5 non-functioning large circular black satin covered buttons and various hidden hooks and snaps. Complex inner structure. Jacket has inner boned bustier-like structure that zippers up front and has inner petersham belt below bust. Jacket "shell" is attached to this structure. All parts lined. Designer's label at left inside seam: "Pierre Balmain" Handwritten style(?) tag underneath: "172379" Jacket is part of an ensemble, and has a matching short black wool skirt with black satin band at waist. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402541/
Picture Hat
Picture hat of black straw. The hat has a broad brim of woven black straw with an upturned outer edge which is trimmed in black velvet. The low, domed crown is also of woven black straw, with a band of black ostrich feathers around the base of the crown. One large ostrich feather plume attached to base of crown and extends out and over the back of the brim. Inside crown is black cloth lining. Sewn inside crown is black cloth label: "Mme Georgette / 11 Rue Scribe / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402502/
Pumps
Pumps of dark wine/burgundy/red-brown leather. The shoes are designed with pointed toes and a rounded vamp. The plain uppers have a thin "mary jane" strap across ankle, with small gold buckle at outside edge. The high, continental heels are elongated, appearing as a thick spike or stiletto, and are covered in the same leather. Lined in beige leather. Designer's stamp in both: "Charles Jourdan / Made in Spain Parallele" Stamped inside: "2319 4 AA 8" Stamped on sole: "Leather / Leder / Cuir / Made in / Spain". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402549/
D'Orsay Pumps
D'Orsay pumps of light brown camel colored leather. Designed with slightly pointed toes and rounded vamp, the leather uppers of the toebox are embellished with thin bands of pierced circular dots around vamp and in a chevron shape extending from either side of toe to a point near vamp. Cut-away sides showing thin platform covered in same leather. Upper heel of same leather, with curved edges, and thin ankle strap of same leather, with small gilt buckle on outside edge. High, elongated continental stacked heel of dark brown wood layered in horizontal bands, the shape similar to a spike or stiletto. Lined with black leather. Designer's stamp on lining: "Charles Jourdan / Paris / Made in France" Handwritten inside: "B 3565[illeg] MA U" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402562/
Ensemble - Dress and Coat
Ensemble consisting of two pieces: A) Trench coat; little black slip dress laminated within clear plastic trench coat; slip dress has spaghetti straps, and lace trim at upper bodice and hem; trench coat has double breasted front opening; notched collar; buckles at wrists; slanted pocket lapels at hips with no pockets. Designer's label molded into plastic: "Gaultier / Pairs" B) Dress of pale pink chiffon with shadowing, and sequin and bead embellishments which create a realistic “nude woman" figure; sleeveless; full-length. No label in dress. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330478/
Ensemble - Dress and Sandals
Ensemble: A) Dress of blues and black metallic knit, and ivory open-woven wool/ cashmere knit with long sleeves with deep armhole; scoop neckline; lined in off-white, fine wool jersey; knee-length. No label in dress. B,C) Sandals of royal blue satin accented with striped bands of black satin; open-toe; 4 ½” spike heel and ankle straps with blue ribbon bow at back; size 38. Designer's label: "Nina Ricci / Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330403/
Hat
Cossack-style hat of brown sable fur. Lined, with black grosgrain ribbon headband. Designer label sewn to headband: "Balenciaga / 10. Avenue George V. Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330438/
Hat
Cossack-style hat of brown sable fur. Lined, with black grosgrain ribbon headband. Designer label sewn to headband: "Balenciaga / 10. Avenue George V. Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330536/
Picture Hat
Picture hat of multicolored printed silk. The low, cylindrical crown is flattened at top, and is encircled by the wide, flat brim. The hat is covered in silk printed with a floral print of purple, pink, white, blue, olive, and green on black ground. The underside of the brim is lined in the same fabric, while the crown is lined in black fabric, with a black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label inside: "Givenchy / Paris"; "Made in / France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330418/
Breton Hat
Breton hat of dark, almost navy blue felt. The high, cylindrical crown is slightly domed at top, and is encircled by the wide brim, which is upturned almost to vertical, forming a "wall" around the crown. The hat is unlined, with a dark blue inner grosgrain ribbon hatband, and with a small attached comb to help secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Balenciaga / 10, Avenue George V. Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330484/
Hat
Hat of gray suede. Designed as a modified fedora, the high, domed crown is lightly creased from front to back, and is encircled at its base by a narrow hatband of the same suede, with trailing ribbons. The medium-width brim is of the same suede, and slopes slightly to the outer edge. The brim is lined in the same suede, while the crown is lined in black fabric, with an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label inside: "Givenchy / Paris"; "Made in / France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330392/
Cocktail Hat
Cocktail hat of black velvet. The hat has a high, cylindrical crown with flattened top, and a wide brim which curves downwards. Around the base of the crown is tied a wide piece of black net veiling, with bow at back. The veiling "pools" on the sides and front of the brim, and then extends down to cover wearer's face. The brim is lined with the same velvet, while the crown is lined in black satin, with an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label inside: "Givenchy / Paris"; "Made in / France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330445/
Hat
Hat of navy blue jersey knit. Styled as a bowler, the hat has a domed crown encircled at the base by a narrow hatband of same knit. The narrow, rolled brim is of the same fabric, curving up around the crown. The brim is lined in the same fabric; the crown is lined in a dark blue fabric, and has a dark blue grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label inside: "Givenchy / Paris"; "Made in / France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330509/
Hat
Hat of cobra skin. The hat is designed with a cylindrical crown, flattened at top, encircled by a narrow hatband of same snake skin. The circular brim slopes downwards. The underside of the brim is lined in cobra, while the crown is lined in brown fabric, and has a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label sewn inside: "Givenchy / Paris"; "Made in / France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330338/
Hat
Hat of pink and white silk printed with a pattern of harlequin diamonds. Designed as a modified Breton hat, the high crown is gently domed, and encircled at base by a narrow hatband of the same pink and white silk fabric. The wide brim extends outwards, then curves out, up, over, and back in, so that the edge of the brim is pointing back to the lower part of the crown, similar to a sombrero. The brim is lined/faced with the same fabric. The crown is unlined, allowing inner white stiffened net to show, and has an inner off-white grosgrain ribbon hatband and small comb to help secure hat to wearer's head. No designer's labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330427/
Beret
Beret of black felted wool with sort tail at center crown. Label inside at center of crown: "100% wool - made in France / WPL 10.888" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305411/
Hat
Cocktail hat of bias cut white draped wool. Front resembles a turban and is formed by four horizontal turned under pleats with 1-1/2" band. Sides and back resemble a beret, with the back folded up and trimmed with a tie bow of self at the center. Partly lined with reinforcing at front to support pleating. Ivory grosgrain ribbon inner headband and comb at front for securing hat to wearer's head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305404/
Mushroom Hat
Mushroom hat of red/orange baku straw. Uniquely cut crown is square with points at front and back. Four side panels are formed off of sides of square crown. Lined in white gauze material with red/orange grosgrain ribbon inner headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305425/
Choker
Choker of satin and feathers. Neck band of 1 1/2" double faced black satin ribbon with double hooks at ends. At center is rosette of hackle and guinea feathers in black, brownish, and white spots. Tag sewn to one end of ribbon stating "Made in France", Style/model "Uo 28", color "Black, and other notes that are illegible. Made to go with an evening dress by Ungaro. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305410/
Hat
Hat of fine red baku straw. Hat resembles a bowler or derby style. Shallow 2" crown, with slightly rounded top. Has 1 1/2" wide slightly squared flat brim. 3/8" wide hat band of self ties in a small bow. Unlined with red grosgrain ribbon inner headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305418/
Hat
Hat of black silk organza. Overall effect is turban-like. Hat is formed with bias organza draped over calotte cap. Fabric drapes across back and is turned under at center back. 1-1/4" wide satin bow 2" above lower edge at center front. Lined with netting and has black grosgrain ribbon inner headband with comb at front for securing hat to wearer's head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305416/
Hat
Cocktail hat of black silk organza. Loosely draped bias from center front over rounded pillbox crown. Ends cross over and attach in back. Large black silk rose at center front. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305342/
Hat
Hat of beige velour. Styled as a modified calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat has a low domed crown and narrow rolled brim with extends slightly more in front to form a "visor" shape. Set at front of hat is an ornament of crossed large white and beige feathers, and smaller gray and white ones. Underside of visor lined with an off-white jersey-like material, and the hat has an inner hatband of dark gray beige grosgrain ribbon overlaid with silver rickrack and pink lace. Maker's label: "Chapeaux / Paris...Chicago" Stamped inside crown: "Midi / Imported velour body / Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305378/
Derby Hat
Derby style hat of navy blue velour. High, domed 4" deep crown with narrow upward curved brim. Unlined with blue grosgrain ribbon inner headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305372/
Hat
Suit hat of white felt. Round crown with 2-3/4" wide brim curved upward on left side and downward on right side. One inch wide black grosgrain ribbon hat band that ties in a bow on right side. Lined in white netting with white grosgrain inner headband. Inside crown stamped: "Feutre / Fléchet" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305389/
Hat
Hat of white organza. High pillbox crown, 4" deep. Bottom edge of crown encircled with 3" wide bias organdy that ties in large bow at center front. Lined in white silk with white grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Covered wires at sides for securing hat to wearer's head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305396/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black silk faille. The cylindrical crown is flat at top, and has one large ruby red silk rose at center front of the side. Lined in black satin, with a single comb inside to secure hat to wearer's head. No label in hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305384/
Mushroom Hat
Cocktail mushroom hat of black silk gazar. Over-sized, with flat top and slightly downward turned 6" brim. Pillbox inner crown with black grosgrain inner headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305385/
Hat
Suit hat of black velour. Rounded 4" deep crown. 2" wide front upward turned brim. 1/2" wider at sides, turning downward at center back. Has large black ostrich feather tassel at center back. Lined in netting with gray grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Comb at center front for securing hat to wearer's head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305345/
Hat
Hat of ivory leather. Narrow brim curves up in back and down in front. High cylindrical crown. Entire hat has horizontal top stitching with exception of narrow hatband. Lined in pink silk with white grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Designer's label: "Yves Saint Laurent / Paris Chicago" Size tag at left of designer's label: "22" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305349/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black jersey. The cylindrical crown has a flat, slightly recessed top, and bands of black silk ribbon decoration applied horizontally around sides. Upper and lower bands are of plain layered ribbon forming slightly molded bands, while central band is of twisted/folded/worked ribbon creating a dimensional braided pattern. Hat is lined in black satin, with inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband and a single small faux turtle shell comb to help secure it to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Givenchy / Paris" "Made in / France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305376/
Hat
Hat of black silk organza. Shallow crown with 5" wide, down-turned brim. Brim covered with large organza overlapping petals. Lined in net with black grosgrain inner headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305332/
Dress and Jacket Ensemble
Ensemble of burgundy crepe a) Jacket is hip-length, and has round collar; bodice opens at center front, and has wide waistband that fastens with 2 self-buttons and loops. Gathered into waistband is peplum with circular ruffle; long sleeves are gathered at armhole have circular ruffles going down and around sleeves; b) Dress is below-knee-lenght, and has low V-neck formed by wide shoulder straps which button to lower back of dress; set-in empire waistline; sleeveless; bias cut skirt; zipper at left side back. Designer's label: "Ossie Clark / Paris" "Made in France" Handwritten style label: "59115 - 38 - 97727/19.92" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286918/
Skirt Suit
Skirt suit. A) Jacket of ivory wool with shirt collar with long, wide lapel that is rolled around toward the front and held in place by 2 gold coiled ornaments, one on each side; single snap closure at center-front with gold S-shaped ornament over; jacket is fitted at waist with two crescent seams; long sleeves with inner shoulder pads; two diagonal pockets at hips with lapels; lower hip length; lined in soft white synthetic. B) Pencil skirt of black wool with 4 panels and 1” waistband with diagonal snap closure at left back side; left back zip closure; 6” slit at front right; 24” length; lined in black synthetic. Size 38 Designer's label: "Thierry Mugler / Paris" "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286916/
Skirt Suit
Skirt suit. A) Jacket of fuchsia flat weave wool with ring collar and zip-front closure; long raglan sleeves with inner shoulder pads; circular geometrical stitched panels at front and back; two circular patch pockets at hips; crescent princess seams; fitted at waist; peplum at back with reverse box pleat and attached belt of self-wool with metal buckle above; lower hip length; partially lined in magenta synthetic. B) Skirt of black stretch wool with 2” waistband with diagonal snap closure; darts at front and back; center-back zip closure; 18 ½” length. Size 38 Designer's label: "Thierry Mugler / Paris" "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286904/
Evening Gown
Ballgown of olive/brown iridescent silk taffeta with all over Lesage embroidery of metallic thread, beads, small sequins, and green chenille yarn. Full length; round neck; long sleeves; center back zipper. Lined in copper colored organza. Designer's label: "Pierre Balmain / Paris" Style label under designer's label: "173666" Accompanying gown, but not shown: Stole of olive green silk; fringed ends. Petticoat for dress. Under layers of very stiff olive netting. Inner support bodice of copper brown silk; extends below waist to knee to form underskirt. Back zipper. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286947/
Dress
Dress of brown/beige coffee-colored wool. The short, A-line dress with shallow boat-neckline, short, cap-sleeves. Front and back of dress with diamond-shaped motif created by slot seams with cream background/under layer. Similar seaming across top of sleeves and joining diamond motifs around sides. Center back zipper with hook-and-eye at neckline. Lined in off-white silk(?). Designer's label: "Jean Marie Armand / Paris / Made in France" Retailer's label: "Made in France especially for / Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286912/
Jacket
Jacket of black, green, red, pink, and yellow flannel in a large, painterly plaid pattern. The jacket is just below hip-length, and has a round neckline and no collar. Center front closure has a zipper with a gold metal rose charm pull, matching the pulls of the zippers on the two diagonal slit pockets at hips. Long-sleeved, with three non-functional buttons at wrists, formed as coiled snakes/spirals of gold metal. The jacket has inner shoulder pads and is fully lined in black satin. Designer's label: "Ungaro / Parallele / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286901/
Ensemble
Bright red/orange wool dress and coat ensemble from 1st collection. a) Coat of bright red/orange wool. Long sleeves and collared neckline. Double breasted with large, covered snaps on inside as closure. Two pockets formed from panels on coat. Lined in red acetate. Designer's label at inside, back neckline: "Jean Marie Armand / Paris / Made in France" b) Dress . Bracelet length sleeves and jewel neckline. Knee length. Center front zipper. Hourglass shaped front panel forms pockets at left and right. Lined in red acetate. Designer's label at inside, back neckline: "Jean Marie Armand / Paris / Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286926/
Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of purple worsted wool. A) Jacket has collar with long lapel with geometric cut edge; geometric cuts along hem line; double breasted snap closure with 2 purple faux buttons at front; princess seams; long sleeves with vents at the wrists, and inner shoulder pads; hits at hips. B) Skirt with two vents at front hemline; center-back zip and hook and eye closure; 19 ½” length. Designer's label: "Thierry Mugler / Paris" "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286939/
Shirt Dress
Shirt dress of brown cotton. Knee-length, with v-neckline and shirt-style collar and lapels. Center front opening with square snaps. Two patch pockets at bust with box pleat at center of each; pockets extend to waist seam; elbow-length sleeves with 2” cuff, and inner shoulder pads; skirt with two patch pockets at each side with pleats as upper pockets; pockets extend to hem. Size 42 With matching belt of brown cotton backed with leather; covered rhombus buckle has one elongated angle; 34 ½” length. Designer's label: "Thierry Mugler / Activ" "Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286949/
Hat
Hat of navy blue fur felt. The low crown is domed, with steep sides at sides and back, while the front has a shallow slope extending out to become a slight brim/visor. The hat is unlined, with a dark blue grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" Stamped inside felt crown: "French Importation" "Ghazelle" Size label: "21 1/2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286775/
Hat
Hat of taupe leather. The soft-sided crown is somewhat domed. The brim is turned up, forming a "cuff" around the crown. At front is a large bow of the same leather. The hat is lined in white, and has an inner hatband of taupe grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label: "Balenciaga / 10, Avenue George V. Paris" Origin label: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286779/
Calotte
Calotte of beige fabric, heavily beaded. The calotte (also spelled "calot") is constructed with a low, domed crown of stiffened net and beige fabric, with areas that extend down at sides and back. The whole is covered with clear sequins, yellow rhinestones, bugle beads, small metal strips, etc. The hat has an inner peach/beige grosgrain ribbon hatband, and four small metal loops sewn in to use to attach to wearer's head with bobby pins. Designer's label: "Gilbert Orcel / 5 Rue de Cirque Paris (8º)" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286780/
Pantsuit
Pantsuit of black wool. A) Jacket. Bolero-style cropped jacket has wide collar with soft edges and center front opening with no closure. Cut-away at front and with long sleeves, the jacket has inner shoulder pads and is fully lined in black silk satin. B) Pants. Full-length, high-waisted, and with tapered legs, the pants have a satin waistband and inverted pleats at top of hips at front and back. Slit pockets at sides open along edge of a black satin stripe which runs length of leg at side. The pants have a side zipper and hook-and-eye closure. Designer's label: "Yves Saint Laurent / Rive Gauche" "Made in / France" "Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286820/
Skirt
White leather mini-skirt with 4 applied black leather bands running horizontally around skirt. White leather suspenders attached at back, cross at back, and run over shoulders to fasten at circular white leather-covered buttons on waistband in front. Fully lined in white nylon. Shirt does not fit tight at waist. Pictured with black knit turtle-neck top, long-sleeves. Designer's label: "Courreges / Exclusively Designed in / Leather and Fabric for / Samuel Robert" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286823/
Hat
Hat of beige fur felt. The shaped crown is somewhat rounded, with a peak at front and a deep fold running from the peak towards the back right of the crown. At back, the crown is cut to form an inverted "sweetheart" line, while at front it curves forward and up slightly to form a small brim/visor effect. At top of crown, behind the peak, is a feather spray of brown and white feathers. The hat is unlined, with an inner dark brown grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label: "J. Suzanne Talbot / 8 Avenue Matignon" Origin label: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286895/
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